Garden garden activities

P a g e | 1
Edited by: ASFIC
http://www.doongardeningsociety.yolasite.com

P a g e | 2
Ser No Subject Page
1 Climate Data of Dun Valley 3
GARDEN ACTIVITIES
2 January 4
3 February 9
4 March 13
5 April 16
6 May 19
7 June 21
8 July 23
9 August 25
10 September 28
11 October 33
12 November 35
13 December 38
14 Lawns - fertiliser application 39
15 Plant propagation methods 43
16 Chrysanthemums for the Home Garden 50
17 Climbers and creepers 66
18 Roses – The Queen of Flowers 74
19 Insects pests diseases and control 86
20 Common gardening mistakes 113
21 Compost the ideal plant food 115
22 Conversion chart 121
23 NPK contents of various manures and
fertlisers
124
24 Know your soil – Jar Test 125
25 Liquid Organic Fertiliser 128
26 Doon gardening society – By Laws 132
27 Doon Gardening Society Membership
Application Form
136

P a g e | 3
Climate Data of Dun Valley for all the months is as under on the basis of mean of
last 25 years.
Month Rainfall
Relative
Humidity
Temperature
(mm) (%) Max Min Ave.
January 46.9 91 19.3 3.6 10.9
February 54.9 83 22.4 5.6 13.3
March 52.4 69 26.2 9.1 17.5
April 21.2 53 32 13.3 22.7
May 54.2 49 35.3 16.8 25.4
June 230.2 65 34.4 29.4 27.1
July 630.7 86 30.5 22.6 25.1
August 627.4 89 29.7 22.3 25.3
TIPE - WHEN PLANTING FOR THE FIRST TIME
1. Dig holes or beds wide, not deep
2. Lightly amend heavy clay or sandy soils with organic matter.
3. Gently remove plants from containers, keeping the root ball intact.
4. Loosen potting soil and roots around the bottom and edges of the
root ball.
5. Plant level with surrounding soil, spreading roots outward.
6. Fill the lightly amended native soil around roots.
7. Apply water to settle the soil around the roots.
8. Cover the area with leaf or bark mulch 2-4 cm thick. Ensure to
keep the plant’s stem/trunk uncovered.
9. Water sufficiently.

P a g e | 4
GARDEN ACTIVITIES
JANUARY
FRUITS: A month of frosts and chilly weather. Great care has to
be taken for the protection of young saplings of fruit trees like
litchi, mango, papya, chikoo, custard apple etc. by covering them
with a thick thatch of hay and their basins should be watered.
Pruning of peach, plum, pear trees and grape vine should be
done.
After pruning the plants should be sprayed with Rogor,
Fenvelrate, Cyphermitherin or CCP 20 as applicable to protect
them from hibernating insects.
Cuttings of deciduous fruit plants (plants which shed their leaves
in winter) should be placed in prepared small beds in sunny place
and kept moist with frequent watering.
GRAPES: Both plants and cutting can be planted.
MANGO: The treatment for mealy-bug should be undertaken. The
lower trunk of the trees should be sprayed with CPP (1:20) or
Phorate and then covered with a PVC film and tied firmly at the
top and the bottom. This PVC films width should be 3 to 4 feet
and should be buried at-least 6 to 7 inches in the earth. Spray
Devicol or Nuvan as soon as you notice any mealy-bug activity.
Cut all branches or twigs which are touching the building.

P a g e | 5
VEGETABLES: Seedlings of Spring Onions should be transplanted
in well prepared beds in rows 6-9 inches apart at a distance of 4-
6 inches from plant to plant and irrigation withheld for one week
at-least for better root formation.
Seedlings of Chilies, Capsicum and Tomatoes sown in October
should be transplanted. Spring Potatoes should be sown in well
manure beds. Cut pieces of large size potatoes bearing 1 to 2
buds should be used.
BORIC ACID AS – PEST CONTROL
Boric (Boric Acid) the innocent white powder comes in an odorless colorless powder form,
which can be dissolved in water. It is used in the household as an antiseptic.
It is also an excellent product for the control of pests like cockroaches, and small ants.
When an insect consumes boric acid, it poisons the stomach and affects the insect’s
metabolism. The powder is also abrasive, further affecting the exoskeleton of the insect.
How to use it:
To make your own boric acid ant traps, mix about 1 teaspoon boric acid, with 10 teaspoons
sugar and 2 cups of water. Next, spread the mixture on cardboard or dip cotton balls in it till
they absorb the liquid. Place these near the source from where the ants and cockroaches
enter your house. The ants and the cockroaches will take it to their hives/resting place.
Here the others ants and cockroaches will also eat it. The whole colony will be destroyed in
about a week’s time.
Place these regularly for a week or two and you will observe that they no longer return to
your home.

P a g e | 6
Winter vegetables like Radish, Turnip, Carrot, Beat Root, Brinjals,
Dwarf Beans, Peas, Spinach, Soya, Salad etc. should be sown to
maintain supplies till April.
Apply manure to all fruit trees, ornamental plants and the winter
annuals already planted.
TIPS - Rhizomes
1. Plant rhizomes shallow.
2. Tops of iris rhizomes should remain partly
showing above the soil, with no mulch.

P a g e | 7
FLOWERS ROSES: If roses are pruned in September the flush of
flowers will last till end December.
Thereafter, two maintenance feeds of 25 gm of fertiliser (rose
mixture) should be applied one each in the first week of January.
CHRYSANTHEMUMS: After the plants have flowered in October to
December/January, the branches of the plants should be cut
down to 6 to 9 inches. These plants are called Stools (Mother
Plants) and should be allowed to rest for about two months till
mid February, when suckers start emerging from the mother
plants.
INDOOR PLANTS: These plants must be exposed to the sun and
manure applied.
SHRUBS: Plant cuttings of various shrubs like Chandni,
Bougainvillea and Rat Ki Rani etc.
HEDGES: Old damaged hedges should be repaired by planting
cuttings of these hedge plants in gaps 6 inches apart crosswise
and watered regularly.
LAWNS: Sprinkle water on the grass early in the morning as this
prevents the dew or frost to damage the grass. In the third week

P a g e | 8
of January apply Urea or CAN and flood the same immediately.
During the last week of January mow the lawn.
FOOD PRESERVATION: Sarson, Amla, Guva, Turnip, Cauliflower,
Carrot, Kenew, Gulgul, Orange, Mausaumi and Peas are available
at the cheapest rates and in abundance. These can all be
preserved now.
TIPS - Hanging Basket
1. Fill basket with prepared potting soil.
2. Leave a small amount of space at the top to allow for easier
watering.
3. Make holes in potting soil for new plants.
4. Prepare plants by loosening any tangled roots.
5. Plant in potting soil, allowing cascading plants to hang over pot
rim.
6. Tuck plants into sides of hanging baskets made of sphagnum
moss.
7. If slow-release plant food is used, sprinkle a small amount over
the top of potting soil.
8. Water to settle soil around plant roots.
NOTE: Soil-moistening crystals may be included in the potting mix to
retain moisture for longer periods between watering.
Happiness Garden
"Count the garden by the flowers, never by the
leaves that fall. Count your life with smiles and
not the tears that roll."

P a g e | 9
FEBRUARY
FRUITS: Young seedlings of Litchi, Mango, Chikoo, Papaya etc
should be kept covered with rough thatches keeping south west
side open to allow sun and air to protect them from frost and cold
winds.
On frosty nights light irrigation may be given to the young fruit
saplings.
Manure should be applied to all fruit trees according to the age
and size of the plants followed by watering.
All fruit plants specially those of Peach, Plum, Pear and all Citrus
fruit trees should be planted in the previously dug pits before
flowering sets in. In case of evergreen plants protect them from
frost by covering with a thatch.
GRAPES: Grape vines should be pruned by cutting back last
year's shoots, leaving 2-3 buds for new growth of fruit bearing
shoots. Soil around the roots of the vine should be dug 9-10
inches deep and left exposed to weather for a week or more and
all fibrous hair-like roots should be removed, after which compost
mixed with CAN should be applied and covered with the soil,
followed by light irrigation.
VEGETABLES: Seedlings of Chilies, Capsicum, Tomato and
Brinjals sown in October should be transplanted in beds if not
done in January.

P a g e | 10
Well manure beds should be made for sowing early crop of
summer vegetables like Khira, Kerala, Chapan Kadu, Loki, and
Kakri etc. at the end of the month for early supply of these
vegetables.
Hoeing should be done to the crop of Potato and Spring Onion.
FLOWERS ROSES: Same as in January.
TIPS - Cuttings
1. Prepare garden soil or pots of potting soil, and
moisten before planting.
2. Stick rooted or uprooted cuttings into the moist
soil. Cover the soil surface with mulch to keep
soil moist and cool
3. Keep moist, not wet, for several weeks until
cuttings root into new soil.
NOTE: Some annual cuttings root readily from stem
cuttings stuck in moist potting soil. Some annuals,
including coleus and tomatoes, root readily from
stem cuttings in water.

P a g e | 11
SUMMER SEASON FLOWERS: Seeds of early summer flowering
annuals may be sown in the last week of this month to raise
seedlings of Portulaca, Amaranthus, Coleus, Kochia, Celosia,
Zinnia, Gallardia, Golden-rod etc. Bulbs of Football Lilly,
Caladium, and Amaryllis may be planted.
FOLIAGE PLANTS: There is little growth in foliage plants.
Watering should be done with a gap of 7-8 days and excess
watering should be avoided. Varieties of foliage plants like
Crotons, Money Plant, and Philodendron should be protected from
frost and cold winds.
INDOOR PLANTS: Transplanting can be done from the last week
of February. Liquid manure may be given to all the plants
including palms.

P a g e | 12
SHRUBS: Cuttings of ornamental shrubs, Bougainvillea, Climbers
and Hedge Plants may be planted if not done already, without
any delay in well manure beds and kept moist with frequent light
irrigation.
HEDGES: Old damaged hedges should be renovated by planting
cuttings of these very hedges in the gaps 6 inches apart cross-
wise and irrigated frequently.
LAWNS: Since the nights are still cool, give another dose of Urea
or CAN to the lawn preferably in the first week of this month.
Keep on mowing the lawn as soon as it is thick and tall enough.
Patchy lawns should be renovated by digging them up and
manure added before planting fresh runners in the last week of
the month and frequently watered.
FOOD PRESERVATION: Sarson, Alma, Guava, Turnip, Carrot,
Cauliflower, Kinnow, Orange, Gulgul, Mausamui, Peas, Lemon,
China Orange are available and can be all preserved.
Watering
1. Once established, these plants are usually drought
hardy and rarely need heavy watering.
2. Too much water can cause foliage problems or root
diseases.
3. Water only occasionally, when they have begun to
dry out.
4. Water slowly and deeply, not frequently.
5. When possible, water in the morning to keep foliage
from remaining wet for too long.

P a g e | 13
MARCH
FRUITS: With the change of weather all thatch covers over the
young plants must be removed. Land around them should be dug
up after adding manure and irrigated after making deep basins.
Lime washing of lower 3 feet of the main trunks of the Litchi and
Mango trees should be done to protect them from sunburn, attack
of insects and fungal pests.
Mango trees on flowering should be sprayed with Malathion to
control the mango hopper pests. Peach and almond tress should
be sprayed with Roger or CPP 20 or Fenvelrate and Nicotine
sulphate or Malathion as soon as the fruit have set and are of pea
grain size.
VEGETABLES Small beds and shallow pits should be made and
manure added in the soil for sowing seeds of summer vegetables
like Bhindi, Beans, Khera, Louki, Pumpkins etc. Bhimdi, Chilies,
Capsicum, tomato, brinjal and beans may be sown in flat beds
and the rest in shallow pits.
Spring Onions and Garlic beds should be hoed after spreading
manure and irrigated immediately.

P a g e | 14
Ginger, Haldi, Arbi and Zimikind, should be covered with thick
layer of dry leaves about 6 inches deep to protect the tubers from
heat and to preserve moisture air in the soil.
FLOWERS
ROSES: No change.
Portulaca, Amaranthus, Coleus, Kochia, Celosia, Zinnia,
Gamphorena, Gallardia, Golden-rod etc. should be planted if not
already done.
Bulbs of Football Lilly, Caladium, Amartllis may be planted.
CHRYASANTHEMUMS: A small sucker is planted in 3 inch pot in
the first week of March or it is planted in rich soil in 9 inch to 10
inch pot or in a well-manure bed at a distance of 18 inches.
LAWN: Give sterameal to grass, 1 kg sterameal for a lawn of
12x12 feet size. Again be on the lookout for weeds. Digging bare
patches, adding manure and planting fresh runners of the grass

P a g e | 15
should be undertaken to renovate the patchy lawn. These should
be kept wet by frequent watering.
INDOOR PLANTS: Manure and put them in shady place. Give
liquid manure in the first week of March.
FOOD PRESERVATION Cauliflower, Tomato, Turnip, Carrot, Peas,
Oranges, Papaya, Ginger and Lemon are all available and can be
preserved.
GENERAL Planting of new trees, climbers, shrubs and hedges may
be completed in the first fortnight. Seeds of the hedges and trees
can be sown now. Seed collection of flowering annuals may be
done. Care should be taken that seeds are properly dried and
labeled.
Seeds of the summer glowering annuals should be sown in the
nursery during the second fortnight of the month.
Fertilisation
Most plants need a regular "diet" of all-purpose plant food, either
specialty (labeled for your specific plant type) or a generic N-P-K
(nitrogen - phosphorus – potassium).
1. Fertilise early in the plant's growing cycle - spring for
summer plants, fall for winter plants.
2. For leafy plants, use a fertilizer with a higher nitrogen
content (first number).
3. For flowering or fruiting plants, use a fertiliser higher in
phosphorous content (middle number).

P a g e | 16
APRIL
FRUITS: All litchis, mango and other fruit trees should be
provided with deep basins for irrigation during the hot summers.
These basins should be filled with dry leaves after leaving a
mound of soil around the trunk of the trees. Lime washing of the
trunk up-to three feet from the ground should be applied to all
the fruit trees to protect them from sunburn and attack of insects
and fungal pests.
Mango trees in flowers should be sprayed with Malathion to
control mango hopper pests.
Seeds from selected papaya fruits should be sown in small 4 inch
pots after rubbing them with dry ashes to remove the mucilage to
induce quicker germination. Seedlings would be ready for
transplantation in August-September and will start fruiting in the
coming winter.
VEGETABLES: Clear the winter vegetable beds and prepare them
for the next season.
Seedling of Chilies, Capsicum, Brinjal and tomato should be
transplanted in small manageable beds if not already done.
Ginger and Haldi should be sown on ridges 2-3 inches depend
covered with 9-8 inches deep layer of dry leaves to protect them
from the heat and preserve moisture in the soil.

P a g e | 17
Seeds of all summer vegetables like Bhindi, Beans, Khera, Louki,
Torai should be sown in small manageable plots with adequate
and assured water supply.
Spring crop of Onions should be hoed after irrigation and green
stems trampled down with feet to induce larger bulbs.
FLOWERS: Winter season flowers which have stopped flowering
should be cleaned and the beds should be prepared for summer
season.
Seedlings of summer flowers like Portulaca, Amaranthus, Dahlia,
Sunflowe, Cineria, Gompherena etc. should be transplanted. This
is the best time for flowering Cannas.

P a g e | 18
Seed collection of the late winter flowers can be done. Damaged
areas in the Shrubs can be filled up.
CHRYASANTHEMUMS: The plants should be transplanted from the
3 inch pots to the 9 or 10 inch pots.
FOLIAGE PLANTS: In the foliage plants the growth will be
resumed. Therefore, these should be kept in the shade to avoid
direct sun. Propagation by seed, division, and cutting can be done
in the first fortnight.
LAWNS: Give another dose of sterameal with neemkhali. For a
lawn 12x12 feet one kg each should be applied.
SEED COLLECTION: Continue seed collection as in March.
INDOOR PLANTS: Save them from direct sun.
FOOD PRESERVATION: China Orange, Mangoes, Jackfruit and
Pumpkins are available and can be preserved.

P a g e | 19
MAY
FRUITS: Deep basins dug around Litchi and Mango trees should
be watered and covered with dry leaves to make mulch. Lime
washing applied to the lower part of the trunk up-to 3 feet to
avoid splitting of the trunk bark by sunburn and safeguard them
against insect and fungal attack.
VEGETABLES: Transplanting of seedlings of Chilies, Capsicum,
Brinjals, Tomatoes, Ginger, Turmeric, Arvi and Zimikund should
be planted and covered with 4-6 inches of thick layer of dry
leaves to conserve moisture and protect them from the heat.
Land should be prepared for sowing Soya Bean in June and
manure applied to the soil.
Prepare land for sowing rainy season vegetables like Pusa Sawni
Bhindi, Karela, Louki, Cowpeas, Beans and Chachinda etc. Early
summer vegetables like Karela, Khira, Louki and Torai etc. should
be trained on wooden supports.
Garlic sown in October should be dug out, tied with strings and
hung. Spring Onion crop should be irrigated, hoed and trampled
upon by feet to retard excessive leafy growth and to induce large
and firm bulbs on onions.

P a g e | 20
FLOWERS SUMMER FLOWERING ANNUALS: Transplanting of
Portulaca, Amaranthus, Coleus, Kochia, Gompherena and
Sunflower etc. should be done early.
Seeds of Balsam, Zinnia, Petunia, Carnation etc. may be sown in
flower pots to raise seedlings of these rainy season flowers.
CHRYASANTHEMUMS:
Suckers planted in beds or 9-10 inch pots, should be now about
6-8 inch tall, their top 1 inch should be cut off with a pair of
scissors.
BULBS: Tuberose, Lilly and Cannas bulbs should be planted now.
LAWNS: Regular watering is must. In case you wish to have a
new lawn, than start digging the lawn up to one foot deep during
the last week of the month.
INDOOR PLANTS: Save them from direct sun. Mulching with grass
or dry leaves or moss-grass can be done to retain moisture.

P a g e | 21
JUNE
FRUITS: Pits of 3 X 3 feet should be dug for planting fruit trees of
Litchi, Mango, and Citrus etc. next month. These pits should be
filled up with farmyard manure mixed with top 9" of the soil from
these very pits.
VEGETABLES: Land should be prepared for sowing seeds of Soya
Beans with the advent pre-monsoon showers. Planting of Ginger,
Haldi, Arvi etc. should be completed without any further delay if
not done already. Seeds of rainy season vegetables should be
sown taking advantage of the pre-monsoon showers. Maize is
also planted during this month.
Supports should be provided to the creepers already growing in
your garden. Transplanting of seedlings of Chilies, Capsicum,
Brinjals etc. should be done if not done so far.
FLOWERS Seedlings of rainy flowers should be planted as the
seedlings are ready.
CHRYASANTHEMUMS:
Cut the tip ends again. If stakes are required use bamboo slits to
enable the plants stand upright.
PREPERATION OF SOIL MIXTURE FOR POTS: Prepare mixture of 2
parts garden soil, 2 parts well rotten cow dung manure and 1 part
sand. Take 10 pots of above soil mixture; add ten teaspoons of

P a g e | 22
slaked lime/marble powder and ten teaspoons of charcoal
granules.
Mix well and fill your pots, after covering properly the bottom
hole of the pot with crocks i.e. broken pieces of pots. This will
ensure good drainage and prevent water logging.
Now to each pot add one level teaspoon of Agromin and one
tablespoon of Single Superphosphate. Mix well and water and
turn the soil. The pots are now ready to receive the plants in
July/August.
LAWNS: The soil which was dug up in the last week of May should
be turned inside and outside 2-3 times so that the roots of weeds
and any other ant-holes etc. are exposed to the sun and
destroyed by the heat. Keep the earth exposed for about two to
three weeks. Then sprinkle some sand on the topsoil along with
some slaked lime. Let the earth dry out and then level the ground
for planting of the grass.
FOOD PRESERVATION: Mangoes, Peaches, Bael, Litchi, Phalsa,
Plum, Cherry, Karonda, Jackfruit and Petha are available and can
be preserved.
TIPS - Transplanting to Another Pot
Most tropical or other "indoors" or patio plants kept in pots
need transplanting from time to time.
1. When their roots get too tight ("potbound").
2. When they get top heavy and need larger pots.
3. When spreading plants get too thick and need dividing.
4. Remove old, faded, diseased, or cluttered leaves and
stems.
5. Carefully remove from container.
6. Loosen old potting soil and tangled roots.
7. Plant in slightly larger pot (if needed) with a little extra
space for mulch and water.
8. Lightly fertilise.
9. Mulch surface of potting soil to prevent crusting after
watering.

P a g e | 23
JULY
FRUITS: Top priority should be to drain off the rainwater during
the rainy season to avoid water logging.
Dry leaves ad turfs of Litchi trees after plucking of the fruit should
be filled in the basins around the trees and covered with a thick
layer of earth (2-3 feet).
For planting of Litchi, Mango, Guava, Citrus and other fruit
saplings, the previously dug pits should be utilised and after
planting raised basins should be made.
VEGETABLES: Sowing of rainy season vegetables like Bhindi,
Kerala, Khira, Louki, Prtha, Pumpkins, Cowpea, Soya, Lobia and
Asparagus bean should be sown if not already done.
Ginger, Haldi, Arvi etc. should be earthed up as soon as the
young shoots come up and are 6-8 inches high. Hoeing, weeding
and general cleaning of vegetable beds should be done at regular
intervals.
FLOWERS: Rainy season flowers like Zinnia, Balsam, Coleus,
Kochia, Dahlia, Sunflower, etc. should be transplanted
immediately. Cutting of hedge plants, ornamental bushes and
creepers may be planted after the rains set in fully.

P a g e | 24
CHRYASANTHEMUMS: In the first week of July 4 inch long tip
cuttings should be taken from the top branches of stock plants
and planted in previously sterlised sand.
LAWNS: New lawns may be laid out after digging and leveling and
runners of the grass of your choice should be planted closely.
SUCCULENTS AND CACTUS: Keep them away from the rains.
FOOD PRESERVATION: Mangoes, Peaches, Bael, Litchi, Phalsa,
Plum, Cherry, Karonda, Jackfruit and Beat are available and can
be preserved.
TIPS - Flats with Dividers
1. Prepare soil by digging deeply and adding organic
amendments as needed.
2. Carefully remove individual plant containers from the flat, or
separate plants whose roots have grown together; cut as few
as possible to separate.
3. Gently remove plants from containers; tear or cut side where
roots grow out of drainage holes. Plant in prepared soil level
with the soil around the plan
4. Cover the soil with mulch to protect from sun and packing
rain.
5. Water deeply to settle soil around roots.

P a g e | 25
AUGUST
FRUITS: Top priority should be to drain off the rainwater during
the rainy season to avoid water logging. Sapling of Litchi, Mango,
Guava, Citrus and other fruit saplings, should in their permanent
sites in the previously dug pits and filled with manures and top
soil from the pits.
A little Phorate should be added to eradicate attack of white ants
and other pests.
VEGETABLES: Ginger, Haldi, Arvi etc. should be earthed up after
removing weeds growing in these. Sweet potato are grown from
sprouts produced from the tubers and from cuttings and should
be planted on high ridges. Celery is sown in July/August. It is
highly nutritive.

P a g e | 26
FLOWERS: Early sowing of flower seeds like Salvia, Aster, Phlox,
Petunia and Marigold can be done. Early variety of Gladiola may
be put in beds. Hoeing, weeding and general cleaning can be
done of all the flower beds regularly.
CHRYASANTHEMUMS: Each rooted cutting can be potted straight
into 9 or 10 inches pots in the first week of August. Keep the pot
in full shade for 7 days and then in partial shade for another 7
days.
Thereafter keep it in a sunny location. Protect these from heavy
rains.
SUPPLEMENTARY FEEDING: Dissolve two teaspoons each of Urea
and Potash in 10 Liters of water. Add two cups of this to each Pot.
Thereafter water the plant. This application should be continued
till end of September, once in 15 days.
PEST PROTECTION: Spray either of the following mixture till the
flowers bloom every fortnight. To WATER 10 Liters add 10 Liters
METACID and10 ml NUVAN OR10 ml METASYSTOX and10 Liters
DIMECRON .
POINTS FOR SMALL FLOWERED PLANTS: When the plant is 5-6
inches tall pinch the top 1/2 inch to encourage branches. When
the branches are about 3 inch long again pinch. Continue the
process till end of September to obtain a large head of flowers. A
cage of three to four split bamboo canes should be provided till
the middle of August.
SPECIAL POINTS FOR LARGE FLOWERED PLANTS: These types
are grown to take 1-4 flowers per plant. By middle of August,
provide 2-3 feet long split bamboo stakes as it grows.

P a g e | 27
In the beginning of September lateral branches will appear in leaf
axils, remove them as soon as hand able by turning to one side.
It is easy because the branch is brittle in the beginning. At the
end of each branch, 3 flower buds will appear. Keep the healthy
one and remove the others when easy to handle.
INDOOR PLANTS: Put out all the indoor plants in the rain (water
logging should be avoided).
HEDGES: Cutting of hedge plants, climbers and other ornamental
plant should be planted, also seeds of quick growing hedges like
Jainter, Aliar or Inga Dulcis, may be sown for making hedges.
LAWNS: New lawns may be laid out after digging and leveling and
runners of the grass of your choice should be planted closely.
FOOD PRESERVATION: Jamun, Plum, Karonda, Apple, Mangoes,
Lemon,Grapes and Peaches.
Cuttings
1. Prepare garden soil or pots of potting soil, and moisten before
planting.
2. Stick rooted or uprooted cuttings into the moist soil. Cover the
soil surface with mulch to keep soil moist and cool
3. Keep moist, not wet, for several weeks until cuttings root into
new soil.

P a g e | 28
SEPTEMBER
FRUITS: Sapling of Litchi, Mango, Guava, Citrus and other fruit
saplings, should be planted in their permanent sites immediately
if not done so.
Basins around the Litchi and Mango trees, filled up earlier, should
be made by digging in the decayed leaves etc. and a mixture of
chemical manure (NPK) should be added in the still lightly moist
soil and mixed properly. All the dead, dry, damaged or out of
place and diseased branches of all the fruit trees should be
removed and to give proper shape and ventilation and sunlight to
them.
VEGETABLES: Land should be prepared after adding manure for
sowing whole tubers of potatoes for early winter crop. Ginger,
Haldi, Arvi etc. should be earthed up after removing weeds
growing in these.

P a g e | 29
Seeds of early dwarf Peas, French Beans, Radish, Turnip, Beet
Root, Methi, Palak, Dhania and bulbs of Onion and Garlic
segments may be sown towards the end of the month for early
supply of these.
Seedlings of Cauliflower, Cabbage, Tomato, Brinjals and Lettuce
should be transplanted for early supply. Celery is sown in
July/August. It is highly nutritive. Sprouting Broccoli, Brussels
sprouts, Parsley and Leak should be sown by end September.
These vegetables are a rich source of Vitamin A, B1, B2 and C.

P a g e | 30
FLOWERS: Aster, Antirrhinum, Carnation, Phlox, Dahlia, Gerbera,
Holy Hock, Larkspur,Linaria, Lupines, Marigold, Pansy, Poppy,

P a g e | 31
Salvia, Stock, Sweet Peas, Cosmos, Sweet William and Verbena
should be sown in small beds for raising their seedlings.
CHRYASANTHEMUMS: Same as in August.
ROSES: It has been observed that in Northern India, new growth
begins by middle of September. At that time sap begins to rise.
Therefore, the right time for pruning is third week of September.
PRUNING HINTS: The following steps should be the guiding factor
for a good prune: 1. Remove all dead and dry stems and dry
portion of partly healthy stems. 2. Cut off weak thin twigs. 3. Cut
of branches growing inwards, i.e. towards the centre of the bush.
The center will open up. 4. Select five to six healthy canes for
retention and remove all the others. 5. Shorten the remaining
canes to 15-18 inches above the scion. While pruning the canes,
the cut should be made 1/2 inch above the outward looking eye.
6.After pruning, the practice of drenching all branches and cut
ends with spray of mixture of a contact and systemic insecticide
in the following proportion should be undertaken: To 10 Liters
WATER add 10 Liters METACID and 10 ml NUVAN , OR 10 ml
METASYSTOX and10 Liters DIMECRON. The effect lasts for 2-3
weeks after spraying.
After the pruning an application of cow-dung 50 gm, NPK mixture
2 heaped tablespoons and Agromin 1 heaped tablespoon should
be given to each plant.
HEDGES: Cutting of hedge plants, climbers and other ornamental
plant should be immediately planted, if not done so.
LAWNS: New lawns may be laid out immediately without any
further delay. Weeding should be carried out effectively.

P a g e | 32
FOOD PRESERVATION: Jamun, Plum, Karonda, Apple, Mangoes,
Lemon, Grapes and Peaches are available.
Seeds
1. Prepare seedbed, adding any amendments (if
needed), or fill pots or flats with potting soil.
2. Sow small seed directly onto soil surface, and rake
lightly to make sure seed are in direct contact with
soil.
3. Large seed should be buried two or three times their
diameter.
4. Lightly cover the seeded area with mulch to reduce
soil compaction in sun and rain.
5. Water shallow seed lightly and frequently until they
sprout.
6. Water deeper seeds slowly and deeply, but do not
keep wet or they can rot.
7. When seeds sprout, encourage deep roots by
gradually reducing watering frequency and increasing
the amount, to get it down deep around and below
roots while letting soil surface dry between soakings.
NOTE: Most seeds require warm (room temperature or
higher) temperatures to germinate.
When seedlings emerge, thin extras to allow full light around
seedlings; some may be transplanted to larger pots or the
garden. When transplanting, hold small plants by leaves to
avoid damage to tender stems.

P a g e | 33
OCTOBER
FRUITS: Manure mixture of NPK in the ratio of 1:2:1 should be
applied and dug in the basins when the soil is moist. Basins
around Litchi and Mango trees should be remade and manure
should be applied in adequate quantity.
All dead, dry and out of place branches of Litchi, Mango and
Guava trees should be removed to allow full sunshine and air to
give proper shape to these.
VEGETABLES: After cleaning up the garden of all weeds and
grasses, land should be dug and exposed to the sun for 2-3 days.
Manure applied to the beds for sowing winter vegetables viz.
Peas, Beans, Radish, Turnip, Beet Root, Methi, Palak,
Dhania,Brinjals, Cabbage, Cauliflowers, Knol Kol, and Lettuce etc.
Bulbs of Onion and Garlic Cloves should be planted preferably on
well manure ridges. Seedlings of Cauliflower, Cabbage, Knoll
Kole, Brinjala, and Tomato should be transplanted in well manure
beds or ridges.
Seeds of Chilies, Capsicum and Tomato may also be sown to be
transplanted in January for fruiting in April.
Ginger and Turmeric ridges should be earthed up heavily after
removing weeds etc. Whole potato tubers 1/2 inch diameter
approximately should be planted preferably on well manure
ridges.

P a g e | 34
FLOWERS: Transplant all the ready seedlings. For late flowering
sow Aster, Antirrhinum, Carnation, Phlox, Dahlia, Gerbera, Holy
Hock, Larkspur, Linaria, Lupines, Marigold, Pansy, Poppy, Salvia,
Stock, Sweet Peas, Cosmos, Sweet William and Verbena.
Seeds of Sweet Peas should be sown in well manure and deeply
dug trenches or beds and young seedlings on sprouting may be
covered with wire netting or thorny bushes to protect them from
damage by birds.
Put in the Hedges and the Evergreen Dahlia Cuttings. Multi
coloured Gladiolus, Narcissus and Iris bulbs can be planted.
ROSES: Roses dug out of ground with earth ball should be
planted after mid October.
LAWNS: Give Urea or CAN to grass and immediately flood it.

P a g e | 35
NOVEMBER
FRUITS: Young fruit saplings of Litchi, Mango, Papaya, Chikoo etc
should be protected from frost and cold by covering these with
rough thatches keeping the south-west side open to allow air and
sunshine.
Pruning of Peach, Plum and Pear trees should be done as soon as
all their leaves shed.
Manure should be applied to all the fruit trees after making wide
basins.
A mixture of NPK in the ratio of 1:2:1 should be applied as per
the age chart followed by watering.
After pruning, these trees should be sprayed with Malathion to
protect them from the hibernating of pests.
VEGETABLES: Winter vegetables viz. Peas, Beans, Radish, Turnip,
Beet Root, Methi, Palak, Dhania, Brinjals, Cabbage, Cauliflowers,
Knoll Kole, and Lettuce etc. should be sown in small beds at
intervals of 15 days to ensure uninterrupted supply of these.
Transplanting of seedlings sown earlier can be done. Bulbs of
Onion and Garlic Cloves should be planted without further delay.
Seeds of Onion should be sown in small raised beds in the
nursery to raise seedlings of main spring crop of dry bulbs.

P a g e | 36
Ginger and Turmeric may be dug out after their leaves have dried
up.
These should then be washed and dried up for storing in a well
aired store. Seedling of late Cauliflower, Cabbage, Knoll Kole and
Lettuce should be transplanted on well-manure ridges or flat
beds.
FLOWERS: Seedling can be transplanted. Narcissus and Gladiolus
bulbs can be grown in this month.
Transplant all the ready seedlings. For late flowering sow Aster,
Antirrhinum, Carnation, Phlox, Dahlia, Gerbera, Holy Hock,
Larkspur, Linaria, Lupines, Marigold, Pansy, Poppy, Salvia, Stock,
Sweet Peas, Cosmos, Sweet William and Verbena.
Sweet Peas and plants already planted should be given support
after pinching their upper parts to induce side shoots and prevent
their growing too tall.
ROSES: Roses dug out of ground with earth ball should be
planted from the first week of November to end January. While
planting a rose the bud should be kept 3-4 inches above the
ground level and the un-sprouted side of the bud should be kept
pointed towards the east/south.
Roses do well in any type of garden soil, sandy or clay, but not
chalky provided it is well drained. There should not be any water
logging in rose beds.
An ideal pit for planting roses should be 1.5 feet in diameter and
1.5 feet deep. The soil dug out of the pit for planting roses should

P a g e | 37
be mixed with a tasla of well rotten cow-dung manure and 250
gm of bone meal.
About 50 Gm of 10 % Phorate should also be added to the soil.
After mixing, the pit should be filled with the mixture and the
remaining soil should be piled up on the pit.
Then after making a circular ridge the pit should be watered. The
depression caused by sinking of soil should be filled up. If this is
done 2-3 times, it will ensure that the soil will not sink any more.
The pit is then ready to receive the plant.
Planting Distance:
H.T. AND F.B. ROSES 3 - 3.5 feet
Miniature and Polyantha roses 2.5 feet Climbers and shrub roses
6 feet
Container grow roses can be planted anytime of the year. Even
then, the 2 very hot months of May and June should be avoided.
LAWNS: Give stearmeal to your lawn.
FOOD PRESERVATION: Cauliflower, Tomato, Turnip, Carrots,
Sarson, Amla, Gauva, Ginger and Apple are available.

P a g e | 38
DECEMBER
FRUITS: This is the hibernating month and the trees should not
be disturbed.
VEGETABLES: Seeds of Onion, Lettuce and Tomato should be
transplanted.
FLOWERS CHRYASANTHEMUMS: Cut off the stem after flowering
and set aside the plants. Protect them from water logging and
frost.
INDOOR PLANTS: No manure and transplanting required.
LAWNS: Give Urea mixed with Neem Cake and water it.
FOOD PRESERVATION: Peas, Oranges, Mosumai, Sarson, Amla,
Gauva and Ginger are available.

P a g e | 39
LAWNS - FERTILISER APPLICATION:
Early fall is the most important time of year to fertilize your lawn.
Early in the morning when the dew is heavy. The dew means
you'll leave tracks walking across the lawn and it'll be easier to
see where you've been. Also, there is less wind and the fertilizer
is less likely to blow around.
Early fall is the most important time of year to fertilize your lawn.
Think of the early fall lawn feeding as the big dinner. Spring is
breakfast for the lawn and late spring is a light mid-morning
snack. Lunch is usually eaten in late summer.
N-P-K
Nitrogen: (N) Boosts growth and green color of turf
Phosphorous: (P) Feeds grass seedlings and turf root
development
Potassium: (K) Strengthens a lawn's resistance to drought and
disease
N (nitrogen): Nitrogen produces "green and growth" in your lawn.
This is the major ingredient in most grass fertilizers, but applying
to much nitrogen can burn your lawn. Fertilizers containing slow-
release nitrogen can prevent this hazard, but your lawn will take
more time to "green up."

P a g e | 40
P (phosphorous/phosphate): This chemical builds strong roots
and promotes disease resistance. This is helpful for lawns
susceptible to diseases.
K (potassium/potash): Potassium promotes overall plant strength
and promotes drought resistance.
The rates are based on a 3-1-2 (N-P-K) maintenance ratio.
The recommended rate is 2.25 kg of actual nitrogen per 1,000
square feet for the growing season. Let’s suppose you wanted to
use urea (46 percent strength nitrogen) as the fertilizer material.
It is easy to calculate the amount of urea needed to supply a total
of 2.25 kg of actual nitrogen by using the formula:
(2.25 ÷ 46) x 100 = 4.89 kg (5 kg rounded off) urea.
The recommended rate is 1 kg of actual phosphate per 1,000
square feet for the growing season. Let’s suppose you wanted to
use SSP (16 percent strength P2O5) as the fertilizer material. It
is easy to calculate the amount of urea needed to supply a total
of 1 kg of actual phosphate by using the formula:
(1 ÷ 16) x 100 = 6.25 kg (7 kg rounded off) SSP.
The recommended rate is 2 kg of actual potash per 1,000 square
feet for the growing season. Let’s suppose you wanted to use
K2O (60 percent strength K2O) as the fertilizer material. It is
easy to calculate the amount of urea needed to supply a total of 2
kg of actual phosphate by using the formula:
(2 ÷ 60) x 100 = 3.33 kg (4 kg rounded off) K2O.

P a g e | 41
Therefore, nearly 5 kg urea (46 percent strength nitrogen), 7 kg
Superphosphate (16 percent P2O5) and 4 kg Potash (60 percent
K2O) will be needed to supply the required per 1,000 square feet
of lawn area for the entire growing season.
This 5 +7+4 = 16 kg of total fertilizer should be split into six
equal applications as suggested below:
Apr. 1, May 1, June 1, July 1, Aug. 1 and Sept. 1
Note: Per application you will need:
Urea – 800 gm
Superhhosphate – 1000 gm
Potash – 700 gm
Note: After the application spray water on the grass as this
will help the soil absorb the nutrients. Watering in the
fertilizer washes the nutrients into the soil where lawn
roots can use them and where they won’t be washed away
by a heavy rain. Watering also gets the fertilizer off the
leaves which may cause burning. A dry lawn is more likely
to burn than a wet one.
Fertiliser application method:
Applying dry fertilizers evenly by hand is a bit difficult. The best
way is to use a fertilizer broadcasting drum or spreader. If you
have no other option, apply the fertilizer very carefully and only
on small lawns. Wear gloves and walk backwards across the lawn
as you throw the fertilizer as evenly as possible with a sweeping
motion.
Sweep up any fertilizer that spills.
Spread fertilizer over the edges of the lawn first.

P a g e | 42
Move at your normal walking speed. Then move back and forth
between the edges. To avoid missing strips, make sure to overlap
the path of the wheels when using a drop spreader. You should
have a little overlap at the edges of broadcast spreaders.
Then broadcast the fertilizers while walking up and down the lawn
as shown in the following figures:
Sod/Lawns
Sod can be laid nearly any time the soil is workable.
1. Purchase healthy sod, timing delivery for when it is time to plant
(avoid leaving stacked in hot sun).
2. Prepare soil by removing stones, sticks, and other obstructions.
3. Lightly rake or till soil surface.
4. Lay sod.
5. Solid sod should be laid in alternating rows to reduce long seams
between rows.
6. "Checkerboard" pieces of sod should be planted, not simply laid on
top of the ground; or fill between with fresh soil.
7. Roll freshly-laid sod with a rented roller, or walk on it, to ensure solid
contact with soil underneath.
8. Water deeply, and keep moist, not wet, until sod begins to root into
soil underneath.

P a g e | 43
PLANT PROPAGATION METHODS
Plants can be propagated by two methods, namely - sexual and
asexual.
Sexual Propagation: Seed formation takes place only after
pollination. After fertilization, seeds are formed. Seeds when
sown give rise to new plants. Some bisexual flowers are self
sterile, that is, pollens from a flower, when deposited on the
female part of the same flower will fail to fertilize it. In some
bisexual flowers like Salvia, pollens and female parts from the
same flower mature at different time to prevent self- pollination.
For artificial pollination for cross breeding purpose pollens from a
mature flower are collected and deposited on the receptive
stigma (female organ) of another flower. This process can give
rise to hybrid plants.
Asexual Propagation: This process is also called as vegetative
propagation. Stem cuttings, root cuttings, leaf cuttings, root
division, layering, grafting and budding are all vegetative
methods of propagation.

P a g e | 44
Stem Cuttings: Herbaceous stem cuttings of plants like Dahlia,
Mint, Portulaca etc. easily root. They do not need any special
treatment. In herbaeceous plants tender, growing and leafy
sections make better plants. Semi-hard cuttings like Schefflera,
Aralia, Philodendrons, Hibiscus can be easily rooted. Hardwood
cuttings of Bougainvillea, Ixora etc. can be rooted with good
amount of success if root promoting hormones are used. These
hormones - normally available in powder form - are applied on
the lower end of the cutting.
Roots are formed in greater number on nodes. So, when planting
a stem cutting, at least two to three nodes should be inserted in
the planting medium. In hardwood cuttings particularly, to reduce
drying through transpiration, some of the leaves should be
removed. In semi-hard and hardwood cuttings survival rate will
be much higher if cuttings are taken with a heel.
Cuttings will strike roots faster in a porous and well aerated
medium, which drains out water quickly but retains moisture for
longer periods. Sand, brick / charcoal pieces, rice husk, peat
moss or vermiculite can be used to make soil porous. Newly
planted cutting must not be kept in complete shade. If kept in
semi-shady locations, warmth of sunlight will encourages faster

P a g e | 45
rooting. Watering should be done with a sprinkler attached to a
hose or to a watering can.
Root Cuttings: Some plants like Breadfruit, Curry patta, White
Poinsettia and some Jasmines and Ixora can be propagated with
root cuttings. Roots of such plants if cut at the plant end and the
cut tip of the root if exposed to air will start growing in to a new
plant.
Leaf Cuttings : Entire leaves removed from many succulents
and kept in moist sandy medium will sprout plantlets. Echeveria,
Kalanchoe, and Sedum are such plants. Herbaceous plants like
African violets, Begonia Rex, Peperomia also can be propagated
through leaf cutting. Sansevieria, Gasteria and Drimiopsis also
can be propagated through entire leaf or by planting leaf
sections.

P a g e | 46
Root Division: Bamboo, Asparagus and Gerbera plants grow in
clumps. These clumps can be divided into sections, with each
section having some roots. The sections are then planted as
separate plants.
Air Layering: Plants which can not be propagated with any of
the above mentioned methods may respond to layering. Layering
actually is a type of stem cutting only. But the difference between
the two is that in normal stem cutting the stems are cut away
from the mother plant and then they are forced to root. In
layering, first the roots are formed on a stem of a mother plant
and only after that the stem is cut off and is planted as a new
plant. Plants grown from layering will fruit earlier than the ones
grown from seeds. Mature or semi-mature branches are selected
for layering, depending upon the species. A ring of bark, about 1
to 2 cm wide is taken out just below a node. For faster and
profuse rooting to take place, rooting hormones may be applied

P a g e | 47
on the place from where the bark has been removed. Wet
sphagnum moss in a shape of a ball is applied all around the cut
and its upper portion. The ball of moss is then is covered with a
piece of transparent polythene sheet. Using a string, the poly-
sheet is tied firmly on to the moss ball. Keep the strings a little
loose on the upper end to facilitate occasional watering, to keep
the moss wet all the time. When a large number of roots are
formed, the rooted branch is cut away from the plant. After
removal of the poly-sheet, the branch is planted in soil. Place
such newly planted branches in semi-shaded place. If the rooted
branch has fewer roots, then it is advisable to cut the branch
gradually from the main plant to prevent the shock.
Stooping: Stooping is a type of air layering only. In this method
the branch from which the ring of bark has been removed, is bent
down and the portion of the stem from where the bark was
removed is inserted in the ground. A stone is kept on the soil to
prevent the branch from springing out of soil. After the roots are
formed, the branch is cut off from the plant end. The newly
rooted branch then is replanted.

P a g e | 48
Grafting: Mango, Chikoo and Golden Champa are available
mostly as grafted plants. These days even Cashew, Jackfruit and
Jamun plants are being successfully being grafted. Decorative
plants such as hybrid red Mussaenda and catus plants too are
available as grafts. "Stock" is a rooted plant upon which a branch
of a desired variety of the plant is grafted. The branch, which is
being grafted, is called as "scion". Grafting is done on a stock
plant, which has a very strong root system. Chikoo plant is
always grafted on a sapling of Rayan (also called as Khirni) tree.
Following are some important methods of grafting:
 Wedge grafting
 Side grafting
 Veneer grafting
 Approach grafting (inarching
 Butt grafting (used for grafting cacti plants)

P a g e | 49
Budding: Budding, actually, is a type of grafting only. However,
in budding, the scion is in a section of shield-shaped skin along
with an eye (lateral auxiliary bud, not a flower bud). On the stock
a "T" shaped cut is given. The skin is opened and the bud is
inserted inside the skin. After this, the cut is covered by winding
a strip of polythene sheet, keeping only the bud exposed. The
growing tip of the stock then is severed. Growth of the grafted
bud starts within 15 days. Rose, Bougainvillea, limes and other
citrus plants, Hibiscus, Beer can be budded.

P a g e | 50
Chrysanthemums for the Home Garden
Chrysanthemums or “mums” are one of the most popular fall
perennials for the garden. Numerous varieties are available today
and can be selected to bloom from late summer through the
entire fall. The genus Chrysanthemum belongs to the daisy family
and consist of over 200 species including annuals, perennials and
small shrubs. Native to the Far East, chrysanthemums became a
part of India’s floriculture in the late 1800 when they were first
introduced. By the early 1900, hardier varieties were being grown
and with the introduction of the Korean hybrids, mums became
quite popular as a garden plant. These Korean hybrids became
the breeding stock for most all hardy chrysanthemum present
today.
Garden mums are vigorous clump-type plants with strong,
upright or sprawling stems which can often become woody; the
leaves are slightly aromatic. Many new varieties of
chrysanthemums are being developed each year which differ
greatly from their common ancestors in color, size and form. Most
are quite easy to grow in the garden, however, some are hardy
only in mild climates and freeze out when planted beyond their
zone of winter tolerance.
In general, chrysanthemums are short-day plants meaning that
the flowering response is triggered by the shortening days of late
summer. The requirement for short days to induce flowering can
either occur naturally outdoors in late summer or can be
controlled in a greenhouse by excluding light for 9 to 13 hours
each day and for an extended period of 8 to 12 or more weeks
depending upon the variety or mum type. This technique allows
growers to produce flowering mums and make them available any
time of year.

P a g e | 51
There are many places where hardy chrysanthemums can be
enjoyed in the garden. Because of their shallow rooting habit,
plants can be dug with a spading fork and easily moved to new
locations. This has a particular advantage because mums can be
grown for most of the season in a sunny location, then after they
have developed flower buds, moved to partially shaded border
areas where they will come into full bloom. In cooler locations like
this, the flowers are more apt to last for a longer period
compared to full sun areas.
In the fall, garden centers are selling potted mums which can be
transplanted to the garden to fill in bare spots in the flower bed.
Mums also lend themselves well to containers and hanging
baskets. This is one of the most popular ways to enjoy mums
since these containers and basket can be moved to any sunny
location around the landscape.
Although slightly more intensive in care, cascade mums present
the opportunity to create a spectacular floral display. Cascades
make up a group of mums which have a weeping or trailing habit.
These plants can be trained to grow over wire supports, up or
down fences or walls and generate a tremendous number of

P a g e | 52
blooms from a single plant.
Planting Location
Chrysanthemums require well-drained soil and full sunlight to
grow and successfully bloom. This means generally 6 hours of
sunlight or more each day during the summer period. Plants
grown with less light will become weak, spindly and produce few
flowers. Avoid locations which are exposed to street or porch
lights as this will interfere with the flowering light response to
shortened days. The best location is a southern or southeastern
exposure preferably against a foundation or wall where additional
protection is given from frost. Improve the drainage before
planting by elevating the bed with a good mix of garden loam and
compost.
Soil Preparation and Planting
Any garden soil which is good for growing vegetables will be
satisfactory for growing mums. If particularly high in clay,
additions of organic matter including peat, composted leaves,
rotted manure or straw will improve the drainage and aeration.
While working the planting bed, collect enough soil for a soil test
and follow the recommendation for amounts of fertilizer to be
added. Containerized plants should be planted at the same depth
at which they were grown. Do not bury the root ball. This will
promote a lack of root aeration and root rot caused by fungal
pathogens. Chrysanthemums are shallow rooted and do best if
planted high. This means that frequent watering may be
necessary during times of high heat and little rainfall. Space
plants generally about 18 inches apart. Spreading varieties may
require larger spacing.

P a g e | 53
Pinching
To generate a plant full of flowers and control growth,
chrysanthemum require some pinching of the tips. This
encourages branching and more compact growth. It also will
stimulate more flowers to be produced. Pinching is done by
removal of about an inch of the tip of each branch or shoot. This
is snapped out with the thumb and index finger. The first pinch
should be done when the plant is 6 to 8 inches tall and repeated
when new branches become 6 inches tall. A third pinch may be
necessary on fast-growing varieties. If plant are not properly
pinched, they will become tall, leggy, easily blown over by winds
and have few flowers.
The most important thing to keep in mind when pinching the
growth back is the timing of the last pinch. For early flowering
varieties which bloom in mid-September, the last pinch should be
around the middle of June. Varieties which flower in the early part
of October should be given a last pinch on July 1. Later flowering
varieties should be pinched for the last time no later than July 15.
Overall, about 3 months is required between the last pinch and
bloom. This is a general rule which can guide you in controlling
the growth and stimulating more bloom production.
Fertilization
Most mums will require fertilization several time during the spring
and summer to stimulate good growth, produce thick stems and
maintain a healthy green color. Chrysanthemums are not heavy
feeders like vegetables so, it is best to use a dilute fertilizer
applied several times prior to bud set. Nitrogen has the greatest
effect on flower production and general growth. If too much is
applied, vegetative growth will be hard to control, fewer flowers
will be produced and overall, flowering will occur later in the

P a g e | 54
season. Before planting a bed in the spring, about 4 pounds of 5-
10-5 per 100 square feet can be worked into the soil to a depth
of 6 inches. This gives about one-quarter pound of nitrogen per
100 square feet and should be enough fertilizer for the season if
abundant organic matter is present. A second application around
August 1 may be beneficial especially on poorer soils. Apply about
2 tablespoons of 10-6-4 or 4 tablespoons of 5-10-5 fertilizer
spread over a 2 foot circle at the base of individual plants.
Alternatively, broadcast about 2 pounds of 5-10-5 per 100 square
feet. No more than about a tenth of a pound of nitrogen should
be applied at this time.
General Care and Maintenance
During the early part of the summer, a layer of mulch material
should be applied to the soil after it has warmed up as this has
definite advantages to conserving and regulating moisture to
these shallow-rooted plants. Besides the benefits of water
control, mulch protects the bed from erosion, compaction and
retards weed seed germination. Use a 2 to 3-inch layer of coarse
peat, leaf mold, compost, nut hulls or lawn clippings mixed with
leaves. Mulches composed of chipped wood, sawdust and straw
may consume nitrogen fertilizer and rob the root system. If you
use these materials as mulch, double the fertilizer applied to the
bed.
If you cannot control the growth of the plants to the point that
they have become tall and begin to drop over, then some support
may be necessary in the form of wire frames or upright stakes.
Wire peony or tomato frames work well and should be put in
place before they are needed, otherwise these will be more
difficult to position without damaging the plant.

P a g e | 55
After the plants have flowered, the stems should be cut off close
to the ground. Leaf, flower and stem debris should be collected
and composted provided they are not disease or insect infested.
If that is the case, the materials should be composted separately
and not used for mulching or soil improvement around the plants.
Disease or insect infested materials can be buried and left out of
the garden.
Often chrysanthemums listed in catalogs are noted as being
winter hardy meaning that the plants will over winter and grow
the following season. The term “hardy” has been used sometimes
inappropriately and gardeners should be cautious about believing
that all mums are winter hardy when stated so. The fact is that
many mums are not reliably hardy depending upon the climate
conditions presented and even the most hardy varieties may not
make it through a severe winter of subzero temperatures.
Many mum selections will survive the winter if the plants
gradually become frozen and remain that way until spring. Deep
snow cover will assist this and protect the frozen soil if it remains
intact throughout the winter. Unfortunately, that is not
characteristic of the conditions in the St. Louis area and plants
must be able to stand the freezing/thawing fluctuations which
typify our climate.
The best defense against adverse weather conditions is to provide
good drainage so that water does not accumulate around the
plants and promote ice formation. After the first frost, mound a
few shovels of soil forming an 8-inch layer around the base of
each plant. Cut the branches back to 10 inches above the soil line
and apply a 2 to 4-inch mulch layer as soon as the soil surface
freezes. This means loosely layering evergreen branches, straw,
or other lofty materials around the plants. Avoid using materials

P a g e | 56
like leaves or peat moss which will pack down and retard
emergence of leafy shoots in the spring. After the last danger of
frost has past, this mulch and soil can be removed. If leafy
growth has already started and the possibility of frost is still
present, apply another layer of loose mulch to protect the growth.
As an alternative to over wintering plants in the bed, they can be
dug and placed into cold frames to better ensure survival. This
mean a little more work, but for those varieties which are more
tender, it is often the only way to keep plants from one year to
another.
Of the numerous cultivars available for home gardeners, a select
group of garden mums can be recommended having withstood
the test of time at gardens in Chandigarh, Dehra Dun and
Banglore.
Cultivar Color Type
Debonair intense lavender decorative
Stargazer dark lavender daisy
Tinkerbell intense purple pompom
Patriot white pompom
Minngopher intense red decorative
Allure yellow daisy
Ruby Mound crimson red pompom
Triumph
dark brown center,
golden petals
decorative
Roll Call orange bronze decorative
White Stardom pure white daisy
Pancho orange bronze pompom
West Point yellow pompom
Johnny Appleseed orange bronze pompom
Flaming Sun orange bronze decorative

P a g e | 58
Some types of mums and their description is appended below:
Type Description
1. Irregular Incurve Largest of mum varieties. Rather loose,
informal appearance, with lower petals
drooping. Needs to be staked. Large
blooms. Mid season - Oct.
2. Reflex Large durable flower. Needs to be
staked. Large to medium-large blooms.
Early season - Sept., Oct.
3. Regular Incurve Football mum, a compact flower with 3-5
flowers/plant. Needs to be staked. Large
to medium-large blooms. Mid season -
Oct.
4. Decorative A flattened full bloom. A good cut flower
and garden mum. May need support.
Large to medium-large blooms. Early and
mid season - Sept., Oct.
5. Intermediate Incurve Incurving but loose flower form, may
need support. Large to medium-large
blooms. Early and mid season - Sept.,
Oct.
6. Pompon Mass of small blooms. Small miniature
button to large ball shaped flower. Good
for cut flowers. Medium-large to small
blooms. Mid season - Oct.
7. Single Daisy-like spray, small flower or a few
larger blooms. Mid season - Oct.
8. Anemone Single-like but more pronounced center.
May need support. Large blooms or small
flowers. Mid season - Oct.
9. Spoon A daisy-like flower with spoon-like ends
to florets. Interesting form. Large blooms
or small flowers. Mid season - Oct.
10. Quill Tubular florets like spoon but not
flattened on the ends. Large blooms or
small flowers. Mid season - Oct.
11. Spider Fuji mum - the most exotic, with thin
thread-like florets, tubular ends are
coiled. Large blooms. Mid season - Oct.
12. Brush or Thistle Unusual, broom-shaped flower. Does not
open flat, excellent filler for
arrangements. Medium-large blooms.
Mid season - Oct .

P a g e | 59
Propagation
There are several way to increase the number of plants that you
are growing without buying new ones; division of whole plants,
stem cuttings and planting seed.
Division
Typically, mums grown for two years can be divided by splitting
the root system of an old plant into two or more separate plants.
This is best done in the spring after the new growth is about 6 to
8 inches tall. Simply dig up the plant and examine the root
system identifying the new underground shoots that come off the
old plant. Remove each rosette consisting of the leafy growth and
a root system. Plant these back into the garden taking care not to
bury the division too far down into the soil.
Cuttings
Perhaps the best way to propagate new plants is by taking stem
cuttings. These are preferred to divisions because they often will
grow more vigorously and have less diseases. In the spring, when
plants have reached a height of 8 to 10 inches, make stem
cuttings by removing leafy tips that are 3 to 4 inches long.
Remove the basal leaves to give about 1 to 2 inches of clear stem
and plant this into a soil mix of one part peat moss and one part
sand, perlite or vermiculite. This can be done directly in the
garden or in a suitable container with good drainage. The cutting
should become rooted in about 2 to 3 weeks. The most critical
factor is moisture control. While these cutting are forming roots,
they need to be watered daily. It is often helpful to make a cover
out of plastic to prevent complete wilting. Plants should not be
placed in intense sunlight, however, should receive some sun
each day, preferably in the early morning. If a plastic cover is
used, care should be taken that the inside temperature does not
reach more than 75 degrees.

P a g e | 60
Seeds
Seed is rarely used to propagate new mum plants. This is
because few mum varieties will actually set seed and the seed
that is produced generates plants inferior to named varieties
otherwise propagated by cuttings or divisions. On the other hand,
seed produced by hand-pollination is an important method of
obtaining new varieties. Primarily, because is much easier to
generate new plants from cuttings, seed propagation offers no
real advantage to the average home gardener.
Selected Cultivars
There are hundreds of excellent chrysanthemum varieties and the
process of selection can be challenging. Often you will hear the
words “garden mum” or “florist mum”. These terms are used to
talk about hardiness. Generally, garden mums are hardy in the
areas sold. However, florist mums are not and are produced for
use as a flowering indoor pot plant. Without extra protection,
they will be difficult to over winter outdoors. If you want to give a
flowering mum and want to plant it outside when the flowers are
past, then choose a garden mum.
How to Grow a Cascade Mum
Cascade mums are a type of chrysanthemum which trails outward
or lays over as it grows. These plants are typically grown with the
use of some kind of support like wire or fence to keep the plants
growing in a certain direction. To grow a cascade mum you must
take some special care in order to maximize the bloom
production; the results can be spectacular and very creative.
The first step in growing a cascade mum is to propagate stem
cuttings taken from container stock plants which have been
grown indoors under constant light through the fall and winter.
The light need only be a 60 watt bulb, however, this will keep

P a g e | 61
these stock plants from initiating flower buds. It is important to
keep the plant in a vegetative state so that good stem cuttings
can be collected.
Around the first part of February, snip off 3 to 4-inch long tips of
the stems from the stock plants and insert 1 to 2 inches of the
stem into a rooting soil mix of 50 percent sand and 50 percent
peat. Keep the cutting continuously moist for about 2 to 3 weeks
until the rooting has completed. A plastic cover over the rooting
container may prevent the cutting from drying out. Transfer the
rooted cuttings to 4-inch pots and hold under continuous light for
6 more weeks and fertilize on a regular schedule with a soluble
household fertilizer. At this time the cuttings should be about 10
to 14 inches tall. Transplant 2 or 3 cuttings to a 10-inch finishing
pot with a good houseplant mix of peat and perlite.
Immediately give a soft pinch by removing 2 inches of the
terminal growth. Keep under light until about the 15th of April.
This is the point in the season that the days are long enough to
keep the plants from setting bud.
As one suggestion, construct a wire frame 5 feet long and
position the mum containers close to the base. Begin to fasten
the terminal growth to the wire by securing loosely with twist
ties. As the plants grow and for every 4 inches of growth
produced, pinch the terminal buds by removing about 2 inches of
the stem. Repeat this at intervals where new growth has reached
4 inches and reestablish the terminal shoot by selecting and tying
up laterals to the frame.
When the frame has become filled, begin to shear the plants by
removing all terminal growth and leaving 2 to 3 leaf nodes on
each terminal. Stop shearing around July 15th so that the plant

P a g e | 62
will begin to set buds. It takes about 90 more days until the
plants will begin to bloom. This means approximately mid-
October depending upon the cultivar selection.
Bud set is controlled by day length. As the days become shorter
in the later part of the summer, the flower buds will be initiated.
Any light source like street lamps or porch lights will interfere
with this flowering response so plants must be kept isolated from
these and any other light source during the night.
Once the flowers have been produced, plants can be transplanted
into the garden or cut back to be held as stock plants for the next
year. Most cascade mums are hardy and can withstand average
low temperature in our area.
Some of the best cascade mums to grow include:
Bronze Charm - bronze single type
Yellow, White or Pink Daphne - single type
Firechief - red single type
Megumi - bright yellow anemone type
Diseases
A number of diseases plague chrysanthemums. Avoiding
overcrowded and shaded conditions will help in reducing the
incidence of disease because under such conditions, moisture is
likely to remain on the leaves providing good conditions for
diseases to get started.
Septoria Leaf Spot
This leaf spot disease is caused by a fungus which attacks leaves
and produces brown to black spots. The disease will begin on the
lower leaves and move its way upward until perhaps half of the
leaves become brown and wilted. The fungus overwinters in

P a g e | 63
debris on the soil surface. Spores produced from infested debris
splash onto new foliage in the spring and initiate new infections.
The best way to control the disease is to avoid the initial
infections by cleaning up infested debris from around the base of
the plant. If the disease shows up on the leaves, a fungicide can
be used to avoid continued infections. Fungicides labelled for leaf
spot control include benomyl (Benlate), chlorothalonil (Daconil),
zineb, maneb or mancozeb. No cultivars are resistant to this
disease.
Powdery Mildew
The same fungus which causes powdery mildew on roses, phlox
and zinnias can become established on cluysanthemums. The
best conditions for powdery mildew development are moderate to
cool temperatures and high relative humidity, but not free
moisture on leaves. Typically this disease is more prevalent
during the early to late fall when air temperatures at night are
relatively cool. The only way to control powdery mildew is to use
a fungicide sprayed every 7 to 10 days. Sulfur, benomyl
(Benlate), dinitro phenyl crotonate (Karathane), triademefon
(Bayleton) or triflorine (Funginex) are labelled for control of
powdery mildew of chrysanthemum.
Virus Diseases
Virus diseases like mosaic and stunt or virus-like diseases such as
aster yellows are occasionally a problem on chrysanthemums.
These diseases are typically transmitted by insects and vary in
their occurrence each year according to the insect survival rate
after winter. They may cause plants to be severely stunted with
distorted leaves or have mottled and yellowed leaves with no
apparent reduction in growth. Aster yellows is caused by an
organism called a mycoplasma which resembles bacteria, but
behaves much like a virus in symptom development. There is

P a g e | 64
little you can do to prevent these diseases and other virus
disease in the garden. The best approach to this is to rogue out
infected plants as soon as they are discovered and control insects
which transmit the viruses; particularly aphids and leafhoppers.
Insects
Aphids
These are soft-bodied insects that range in color from green to
black and about one-eighth inch long at the largest. Aphids feed
by sucking out plant juices from cells. Most feeding activity will
take place from the underside of the leaves and buds. Under
severe infestations, aphid feeding will cause tissues to become
yellowed. The only way to effectively control aphids is with
insecticides. Suitable materials include malathion, diazinon and
insecticidal soap which when use properly and sprayed to provide
uniform coverage can be quite effective.
Caterpillars
A couple different types of caterpillars may chew holes in the
leaves or feed on the buds. Generally, these pests will cause little
lasting damage and therefore should be tolerated unless the plant
shows more than 50% loss of tissue. Caterpillars can otherwise
be controlled by using an insecticide like those mentioned for
aphid control. In addition, carbaryl (Sevin) should be added to
the list as well as one biological insecticide called Bacillus
thuringinesis (Dipel, Thuricide, Bactur). Insecticidal soaps are not
effective against caterpillars.
Leafhoppers
These small, wedge-shaped insects are always found on the
underside of leaves where they feed by sucking plant juices out of
cells. Typically, they are green in color and fly or run sideways
when disturbed. Heavy feeding will cause leaves to become

P a g e | 65
mottled, curled and withered. The same insecticides as those
recommended for aphids plus carbaryl (Sevin) will control
leathoppers.
Leafminers
Leafminers spend most of their pest life inside leaves burrowing
between the upper and lower cell layers. Light-colored,
serpentine mines can be easily distinguished. Heavily infested
leaves may curl and wither. Insecticides sprayed over the surface
are not likely to control the feeding of leafminers in the leaves,
however, malathion and diazinon can be used to control egg-
laying adults.
Plant Bugs
Plant bugs do not typically cause real problem on
chrysanthemums, but can be found feeding on sap by puncturing
tissues with their mouth parts. These insects are about one-
quarter of an inch long, brown or green in color with some black
marking on the back. If necessary, plant bugs can be controlled
by use of malathion, diazinon or carbaryl.
Spider Mites
When conditions become hot and dry, spider mites can be a
persistent problem on chrysanthemums. These are related, but
not true insects which feed on the underside of leaves by rasping
and rupturing cells with their mouth parts. The plant sap which
leaks out is then lapped up. Heavy feeding will cause the leaves
to become bronzed and dry looking. They are difficult to observe
with the naked eye and therefore, often avoid detection until the
damage is already done. Insecticidal soaps as well as those
pesticides which control aphids can be effective against spider
mites. Carbaryl (Sevin) will not control mites.

P a g e | 66
Climbers and creepers
Botanically, plants, which have special structure to climb on
supports, are defined as climber. Climbers are very important
ornamental plants and the beauty of any garden can be greatly
increased by carefully selecting and planting them in a suitable
place.
The growth habit and mass of colour give charming appearance.
Climbers are very commonly used on arches and pergolas but in
cities their utility enhanced for the purpose of screening the
premises from adjacent houses and maintaining privacy.
Bare walls can be most effectively decorated by growing colourful
climbers on it. Fences and trellis also provide scope for the
beautiful climbers to grow and display. It is often felt that among
the various types of ornamental plants least interest is taken on
climbers and only few species or varieties are found growing in a
locality.
Even a good amateur gardener seldom knows more than a dozen
climbers as information regarding a large number of these plants
is not readily available. Attempts have been made to include
description of plants of horticultural interest and their utility and
practical hits on cultivation of a large number of climbers suitable
for tropical gardens.
Another type of climbing plants grows spirally around another
plant or support and do not possess tendrils, rootlets, shoots or

P a g e | 67
thorn. These are known as twiners e.g., Echites, Chonemorpha,
Clerodendron.
Creepers cannot grow vertically on their own e.g., Morning Glory.
All these types of plants are commonly known as climbers. Most
of the flowering climbers require full sun for growth and
flowering; few climbers, however, grow well in shade and flower
e.g., Thunbergia grandiflora, Clerodendron splendens,
Jacquemontia violacea, Asparagus racemosus, Scindapsus,
Philodendrons, Monstera deliciosa, Syngonium, Cissus discolor
are grown for beautiful foliage in shade or partial shade.
Scindapsus (Pothos) are the most popular climber in shade and
when grown on tree trunk, the leaves grow large with very
attractive shades of green and yellow. Philodendrons are also
grown on tree trunks in shady places. Ficus repens (Indian ivy) is

P a g e | 68
the most popular and widely grown plant for covering bare walls
or pedestrals. No support is needed as the roots from the node
grip the walls.
Climbers which grow quickly and cover the space thickly are
mostly used for this purpose. Railway creeper (Ipomoea
palmata), Antigonon and Vernonia are commonly selected.
Vermonia has neat growth but the flowers are not showy. Some
heavy climbers with colourful bloom can be recommended. These
are Clerodendron splendens, Derris scandens, Thumbergia,
Adenocalymna calycina, Passiflora, Bignonia gracilis,
Rhyncospermum, Bougainvillea, Ficus stipulata is also an ideal
climber for screening shady place.

P a g e | 69
Ideal climbers for pergola
Quisqualis, Banisteria laurifolia, Derris scandens, Clerodendron
splendens, Petrea volubilis, Pyrostegia venusta, Bougainvillea.
Annual climber
Important annual climbers are sweet pea and heavenly blue
morning glory (Ipomoea coerulea), Mina lobata with yellow and
orange red spikes and Quamoclit vulgaris with white, pink and
red flowers are also popular annual climbers.
Climbers for pot culture
For growing climbers in pots, light climbers or those with
bushy growth should be selected. Climbers should be planted in
large pots (20-30cm) and given suitable support to allow the
plant to grow. Among the perennial climbers Clematis flammula,
Bignonia purpurea, should be selected for pot cultivation.
Bougainvilleas in pots are usually treated as shrubs.

P a g e | 70
Soil
Loamy soil with good drainage suits well to most of the climbers.
Decayed cow or stable manure or leaf mould should be
incorporated in the soil of the pit about 50cm in depth and
diameter in case of large and heavy climbers. For light climber,
the pit may be 30cm deep and 25 cm in diameter. Bone meal and
leaf mould show very good result if cow-manure is not available.
Distance of planting depends on the species or variety and the
purpose for which the climbers are used.
Quick growing heavy climbers are planted at a distance of 3m for
screening, while light climbers for the same purpose may be
grown at 1m. To cover fences or walls closer planting is
recommended. Vernonia and ficus repens are planted at a
distance of 15-30cm.
As the climbers do not grow erect without support, main stem
and the branches should be tied up with the support. This helps
to grow and cover the space quickly. Like other perennial plants
planting of climbers can be done any time of the year early
monsoon is the best. Manuring encourages growth and flowering
of climbers. Bone meal or hoof and horn once or twice in the
monsoon will be beneficial to the plants.
Selection of Climbers
There are different situations in the garden like sunny, partial
shade and different structures according to which suitable type
can be selected from an available wide choice. The climbers for
different situation are as follows:
For sunny situation:
Phyrostegia venusta, Quisqualis indica, Antigonon leptopus,
Adenocalymma alliaceum, Bougainvillea sp., Campsis grandiflora
etc.

P a g e | 71
For Partial shade:
Clerodendron splendens, Petrea volubilis, Lonicera japonica,
Trachalospermum jasminoides.
Heavy climbers:
These climbers produce luxuriant vegetative growth and grow
very vigorously. They cover large area and are suitable for
covering bigger area e.g. Antigonon leptopus, Bignonia magnifica,
Beaumontia grandiflora, Bougainvillea sp., Hiptage benghalensis,
Quisqualis indica, Wisteria sinensis Pyrostegia venusta,
Clerodendron splendens.
Light climbers:
These climbers make sparse vegetative growth and remain light
in spread. These climbers are suitable for limited spaces e.g.
Lonicera japonica, Trachelospermum jasmenoides, Clitoria
ternatea.
Climbers for fragrant flowers:
Jasminum grandiflorum, L. officinale, Trachelospermum
jasminoides, hiptage benghalensis, Clematic penniculata.
Climbers for pots:
Bougainvillea, Clitoria ternatea.
Climbers for hedge:
Clerodendron inerme and Bougaivillea.
Climbers for indoor decoration:
Shade loving climbers like Pothos, Monstera deliciosa,
Philodendron sp., Asparagus sp., etc can be grown in pots and
can be kept indoor also.
Climbers for screening:
Vernonia elegnaefolia, Pyrostegia venusta.

P a g e | 72
Annual climbers:
There are climbers, which are seasonal in nature and can be
grown temporarily. E.g. sweet pea, trailing nasturtium. There are
woody climbers, which can also be grown as annual like Ipomeas
lobata, Clitoria ternatea.
Clematis flammula (Ranunculaceae)
A slender low-growing climber. Leaves usually bipinnate dark
green, often trifoliate; leaflets narrowly lanceolate entire,
glabrous 1.3 to 3.2 cm long. Flowers very fragrant, small 1.9 to
2.5 cm across pure white in loose panicle up to 20-30cm long,
Sepals 4-linear oblong.
Clematis flammula has less growth but flowers heavily on large
panicles in the early rains. It is ideal for small gardens on low
walls or wire nettings. It likes porous soil and partial shade.
Propagation by layering.
Ipomoea palmata, Railway creeper
A perennial vigorous climber. Leaves 5.0 to 7.6cm in diameter,
cut nearly to the base 5 to 7 lobes, entire, elliptic or lanceolate.
Flowers purple, 5.0 to 6.3cm across often 3 flowered cyme.
Corolla campanulate, colour deeper in the throat.
Ipomoea purpurea, Common morning glory
It is also a quick-growing climber. Leaves entire, ovatecordate,
7.6 to 12.7cm long pubsecent on both surfaces. Flowers large
funnel shaped few on auxiliary peduncles, about 6.3 to 7.6cm
across, white, pale blue or purple.
Passiflora coerulea (Passifloraceae)
A vigorous climber. Stipule leafy, cordate, toothed. Leaves
divided nearly to the petiole into 5 lanceolate or lance-elliptic
segments 10.2 to 16.2cm across. Flowers solitary, large 7.6cm
across, auxiliary. Bracts large ovate-cordate about 2.5cm in
length. Petals 5 oblong-obtuse, pale pink in colour. Corona 5.0cm

P a g e | 73
across, outer filaments blue at top, white in the middle and
purple at base.
Passiflora deulis
Woody, strong and spreading climber. Stem angular slightly
downy or glabrous. Tendrils auxiliary, long simple. Leaves
alternate large. 10.2 to 12.7cm long and wide deeply 3 lobed.
Lobes ovate, glandular, toothed. Flowers solitary terminal or
auxiliary, 3 leafy bracts, 5 lobed greenish with short crown. Petals
5 about 2cm long, oblong white often tinted with purple. Corona
in several rows white in the upper half violet or purple below.
Fruit globular, oblong, thickly purple dotted.
Pyrostegia purpurea
An evergreen climber. Leaves compound, leaflets 3 ovate to
ovate-oblong about 5.0 to 7.6cm long mostly toothed bright
green above paler beneath. Flowers 4 to 10 rosy purple in
auxiliary cyme. Corolla funnel shaped about 5.0cm long, lobes 5
spreading about 6cm across.
This ideal climber produces flowers in large bunches 6 to 8 times
a year in the summer and rains and rains and should be grown on
trellis or low walls. Propagated from layers.
Thunbergia laurifolia
A shrubby climber. Stem terets, smooth except when young.
Leaves opposite, ovate, oblong – lanceolate rounded at the base,
entire or slightly toothed 15 cm long about 6.3cm wide. Flowers
borne in auxiliary or terminal raceme. Corolla tube cylindrical,
swelling above, cuneal-shaped with spreading large 5 lobed limb
about 6.3cm across pale blue, white or yellow in the throat.

P a g e | 74
Roses – The Queen of Flowers
The Rose, belong to the shrub family and is called the queen of
flowers and is known for their beauty and fragrance. This
flowering shrub is mainly valued for their beautiful colour flowers
and fragrance. It has about 150 species. Many thousands of
cultivars have been developed from these species through cross
breeding, selection and hybridization and they vary widely from
miniatures under 30 cm tall to climbing types that climb up to 15
meter high.
Many writers, artists, and composers have always praised the
rose and have rightly called it the flowers of love. It was the
Greek poet Sappho who coined the title 'Queen' to the flower over
2500 years ago. In the early Roman culture, Roses were a part of
upper class life. The decorations for parties, weddings, funerals,
festivals and on statues and monuments, chariots and shields
were adorned with roses. People would bathe in rose water, wear
rose garlands, make confections and wine with rose petals. Even
medications were prepared from rose petals, fruits (hips) and
seeds.
The cultivars are mainly covered under the heading of Old Garden
roses and the Modern roses. In a garden, roses can be planted as
borders, hedges, backgrounds, and specimen plants. They can be
planted not only in the open ground but in pots and raised beds
on your verandah, terrace or balcony.
Planting
Roses grow best in soil with a pH 6.5 (slightly acidic) and 7.0.
The soil structure should be such that it remains moist for most
part of the day and at the same time it should be well-drained.
Avoid planting the rose shrub in excessively sandy or clayey soils.
Sand should be added if the soil is extremely moist/ clayey. Add

P a g e | 75
peat moss, dead leaves or some other organic sources to the soil
before planting the rose. The soil should be prepared at
least a month in advance of the planting.
The best time to plant bare root roses is in January or February
up to March. October end. November planting can also be
successful if your area does not have severe winters. Potted roses
that it can be planted at almost any time. Before planting, potted
plants can be placed outdoors and watered for some time to
make the roots and canes moist. Potted roses need to be pruned
when planted. In order to restore the bare root plant, it should be
placed in a bucket of water for 1 2-24 hours before planting.
Location
Roses flower best in sunny locations. Most types need at least 6
hours of direct sunshine daily, preferably in the morning for
flowering and growth. Try to select a planting location that is not
shaded by buildings, trees etc.
Dig a trench of 40 cm deep and 50 cm wide with one side
slanted. Soak the area where you intend plant the rose to make
the soil more manageable. Small roses need a hole not much
more than 40 cm across. Shrub roses need holes about 90to 100
cm across. Climbers planted along a wall may need holes which
are a little bigger than this. Before planting a bare root plant trim
off any long or damaged roots. Place the juncture of roots and
stem just below the soil surface. If there is a bud union, it should
be about 2.5 cm above the soil. Fill the hole with soil and press it
firmly down. Water thoroughly after planting.
If using a granulated fertiliser:
Scatter a small amount of all-purpose fertilizer lightly under
plants from the stem to beyond the outer spread of branches
or foliage.
Water slowly and deeply.
NOTE: Never over fertilise if you see lots of weak, leafy
growth and few flowers.

P a g e | 76
Propagation
Propagation can be done from cuttings, by budding.
Budding
Make a 2.5 cm long T shaped cut in bark of under stock, an inch
or two above soil level. For bud wood, choose a stem that has
just flowered. Slice under bud to get a 2.5 cm bark with bud in it.
Peel back under stock bark at T cut, insert bud shield. Bud should
be at least 0.5 cm below top of T. Firmly tie bud in place with
soft cotton thread (used by the plumbers).Strip wrapping both
above and below it but leaving bud exposed. When bud sends out
a strong new shoot the next spring, cut of under stock growth
about 1 inch above the shoot. If the bud is plump and green,
your new rose bush is born.
Cuttings
you can start cuttings after the first bloom. Cuttings should be 15
to 20 cm
Long. Cut a newly flowered stem below a leaf, remove lower
leaves and plant in sandy potting mix. Remember that the
cuttings should not be allowed to dry out. Keep it moist/humid by
covering it with a plastic bag. The bag should be removed once
the new growth emerges.
Caring for the roses
Pruning
Pruning involves removing any damaged, diseased or dead wood
of a rose bush to improve the appearance, stimulate growth and
control pests and diseases. Improper/heavy pruning can affect
blooming. The how and when of pruning roses is determined by
the type of rose. Here we are given few basic steps to prune your
rose plant.

P a g e | 77
Plants are ready to be pruned, when the bush becomes leafless or
with a few leaves during the dormant season. Use a sharp knife
or pruning shears and remember one thing to cut approximately
1 cm above an outward facing bud. Remove all old, damaged and
diseased canes. Take out stems that cross through the centre and
thin out the center of the plant. Where canes cross and rub
against each other prune out the less healthy cane. Shorten the
remaining healthy growth by 1/3rd of its length. Apply a borduix
mixture paste to the cuts in order to avoid damage by insects and
diseases.
Fertilistion
Although some roses may flourish without fertilization, they need
nutrients for peak performance. So it is usually necessary to
apply fertilizer.
The three basic nutrients for healthy growth are Nitrogen,
Phosphorous, and Potassium. Do not fertilize newly planted roses
until after the first bloom. If you want to avoid using chemical
fertilisers you can try these organic alternatives: bone meal,
compost, fish emulsion, manure, and seaweed or soybean meal.
Apply fertiliserhen you see new emerging growth. Fertilisea
second time when the first flower buds set in. Apply a final
fertilizer after two months.
Watering
The amount and frequency of application will depend on soil type,
bush size, and the rainfall in your area. When watering roses, be
sure to soak the soil well; they need more than just light sprays
of water. Washing the leaves every week or so will make the
plants healthy. This will also wash away some insect pests. Some
other tips include watering in the morning, avoid letting the water
come into contact with the leaves and blooms, and providing
mulch so that the soil retains its moisture. The uses of mulch

P a g e | 78
around roses help to retain soil moisture and help retard weed
growth.
Diseases and Pest Control
The rose plants are mainly affected by three types of diseases -
Black-spot, Powdery and Rust. For black spot you should
thoroughly clean up debris at pruning time, then apply the
Borduixmixture to the cuts. Resistance varies from one rose
variety to the next for powdery mildew. Garden sanitation is best
for rust and can be controlled with foliage sprays.
The pests that usually attack the roses are - Aphids, Thrips,
Beetles, Borers, Rose midge, caterpillars, Worms and Mites.

P a g e | 79
Natural enemies like lady bugs help keep aphids in check. They
effect growth and can deform leaves. Hand picking is the safest
control for Beetles, Caterpillars and worms and Borers. To control
mites spraying water is the simplest remedial measure. Use a
nozzle that produces fine spray, thoroughly wash off the
undersides of the leaves. Repeat this method at least three times.
Thrips deform flower petals. To control thrips use chemical spray
plants always from above, making certain to cover all the leaves.
Types of Roses
Hybrid
Hybrid roses dominate modern rose gardens and have long,
pointed buds. They grow up to 100 to 150 cmtall and produce
semi double to double flowers, repeatedly during the season.
Examples are Paradise, Peace, Polarstern, Pristine etc.
Climbing Roses
Tall plants generally grow from 2 to 6 meter high. They are
grown on walls & fences, trellises. Climber flowers are large with
only a few per cluster. They require very little pruning, and nearly
all are repeat bloomers viz Blaze, Don Juan, Dortmund, Climbing
Iceberg etc
Miniature Roses
These rose plants grow up to 60 cmor less in height with small
blooms. Colour range includes all the shades found in modern
hybrid teas, in flowers that range from informal to hybrid tea
style. Miniatures are grown on their own root. Some of the
Miniatures are Rainbow's End, Red Beauty, Rise 'N' Shine. There
are certain types of climbing miniatures derived from crosses of
miniatures with climbing roses.

P a g e | 80
Shrub Rose
Shrub roses are hardy, have a tolerance to less than optimum
growing conditions, and needs only low maintenance. Flower size
varies from small to large, can be single or double. This plant
may be 2to 3 meter tall and bloom all season long. You can use
them as borders, hedges etc. Some of the common varieties are -
Bonica,Frau Dogmar Hartopp, Abraham Darby, Golden Wings etc.
Floribundas
Floribundas are bushy plants that grow from 60 to 120 cm high.
Individual flowers may be single or double and are borne in
clusters. Good for borders or containers, floribundas provide an
almost constant show of color - Impatient, Angel Face, Ivory
Fashion
Grandifloras
These are tall elegant plants 5 to 8 feet high. Grandiflorars bloom
repeatedly during the season. This type has been derived from
crosses between Hybrid and Floribundas. Medium to large flowers
usually comes in small clusters - Aquarius, Gold Medal, Pink
Parfait etc.
Standard or Tree Roses
Tree roses or standard roses are small plants from 60o 90 cm
high. This is a bush rose budded on to a under stock stem to
produce a rose tree. The standard tree rose has full-sized flowers.
Many popular rose varieties are available in tree form.

P a g e | 81
Scientific Name Type Common
names
Colour Description
Standard or Tree Roses
Rosa Blaze Climber Blaze, Flaming
Fury
Red An everlasting free
flowering plant.Grows from
12 to 15 feet. Double
flowers with 25 petals.
Light fragrance. Shiny
leathery dark green leaves.
Rosa Royal
Sunset
Climber Royal Sunset Deep
apricot,
yellow
pink
blend,
orange
blend
Plant grows from 8 to 10
feet. Dark glossy green
leaves. Strong fragrance.
Rosa Macha Climber Handel,
Haendel
Creamy
white and
rose-pink
Tall plant grows from 12 to
15 feet. Flowers with 25
petals. Colour is creamy
pink, with petal bordered
in bright rose pink. Double
blooms. Light fragrance.
Dark bronzed green
leaves.
Miniature Roses
Miniature-
pink
Cupcake Frosting
pink
Long lasting, free
flowering, bushy plant.
Well-shaped blooms with
sweet fragrance. Glossy
leaves.
Rosa Beauty
Secret
Miniature-
red
Beauty Secret Cherry red
buds
Bushy habit plant. Lovely
small flowers with 20
petals. Long pointed buds
open to semi double
blossoms. Strong fruity
fragrance. Dark green
foliage.
Rosa 'Yellow Doll' Miniature-
yellow
Yellow Doll Light
Yellow
Spreading habit flower
with 50 petals. Double,
fairly large blooms.
Flowers are moderately
fragrant.

P a g e | 82
names
Colour Description
Multicolour Roses
Rosa Burway Hybrid Tea Broadway Pink
Yellow
blend
Tall upright habit plant
grows from 4 feet. Dark
green leathery leaves.
Large double blooms with
35 petals of pink and
yellow, with pink tones
intense at edges. Spicy
fragrance.
Rosa Peace Hybrid /
Climber
Peace, Beke,
Fredsrosen,
Gioia, Mme A
Meilland, Mme
Antoine Meilland
Yellow and
Pink blend
Bushy habit plant of
medium height grows from
5 to 6 feet. Large double
blossoms with pink rimmed
yellow petals. Dark green
glossy leaves. Disease
resistant and makes good
cut flowers.
Rosa Aromiclea Hybrid Tea Voodoo Orange,
Yellow and
Pink blend
Tall, bushy upright plant
with plenty of dark bronze
green, glossy foliage.
Richly fragrant blossoms
that soften to yellow and
peach shades, then finally
fade to pink. Good cut
flower.
Red Roses
Rosa Macdub Bright red Dublin Bay,
Grand Hotel
Bright Red A bright red climbing Rose
with small clusters of 25
petals. Semi double cut
flowers grows from 8 to 12
feet. Good disease
resistant foliage, needs full
sun. Flowers are
moderately fragrant.
Rosa Jacdew Floribunda Impatient Orange
Red
Upright bushy plant with
semi double blooms in
cluster. 25 petals with light
fragrance. Good cut
flowers, grows to 4 feet
and has good disease
resistance.
Rosa Oklahoma Hybrid Tea/
Climber
Oklahoma,
Almost Black
Red/Black,
Red
/Purple
Very large, long lasting
flower with 48 petals.
Intensely fragrant rose.
Plant is a vigorous grower.
Grows to 4 feet.

P a g e | 83
names
Colour Description
Pink Roses
Rosa Bridal Pink Hybrid Tea Rosa Bridal
Pink
Pink
blended
with
cream
Bridal pink, the upright
bushy fragrant rose flower
looks like a painters brush
spattered darker pink on
the bloom. It needs very
little care. Bridal pink
is long lasting and
generally grows from 3 to
5 feet high.
Rosa
Meldomonac
Shrub roses Bonica, Red
Bonica
Soft pink Bonica, an ever blooming,
dense, spreading habit
flower. It is an easy to
grow shrub which cover
themselves with large
clusters of smallish fully
double flowers having a
light fragrance. This bushy
plant grows from 3 to 5
feet.
Rosa Bucbi Shrub
Roses
Carefree beauty Strong
Pink
An upright, bushy shrub
with rich pink flowers
having light scent. It
generally grows from 2 to
5 feet. Long buds in small
clusters which open into
semi double blooms. It
blooms repeatedly all year
long. Glossy, dark green
foliage. This delight your
garden throughout the
growing season .
White Roses
Rosa Jacare Floribunda Class Act, First
Class, White
Magic
White to
cream
Medium height plant grows
from 2 to 2.5 feet. Good
disease resistance. Dark
green leaves. Moderately
double flowers with fruity
fragrance.
Rosa Jacven Floribunda Evening Star Pure
White
Medium size, lightly
fragrant flowers comes in
small clusters. Flower.
Plant grows from 2.5 feet
to 4. Good disease
resistance. Healthy foliage.

P a g e | 84
names
Colour Description
Rosa Lenip Hybrid Tea Pascali, Blanche
Pasca
Warm
white
Tall upright bushy plant
with dark green foliage.
Vigorous, good resistance
grows up to 3 to 4 feet.
Large flowers with 30
petals. Long lasting cut
flower.
Orange Roses
Rosa Harroony Floribunda Amber Queen,
Harmony
Golden
yellow
Large, semi-gloss, fully
double magnificent
flowers. Good as cut
flowers, they have a strong
spicy sweet fragrance.
The plant is bushy and
needs full sun. Generally
grows from 3 to 3.5 feet,
spreading habit, has good
disease resistance and
dark green bronze tinted
foliage.
Rosa Korgane Hybrid Tea Las Vegas Orange-
gold blend
Upright bushy habit plant
grows medium height of
3.5 feet. Medium sized
flowers with 26 petals with
golden yellow petal backs.
Shapely pointed buds,
strong fragrance and
glossy foliage.
Rosa Arocad Hybrid Tea Brandy Bronze-
apricot
Large broad 28 petal
flower with mild fragrance.
Semi glossy, dark green
foliage. Plant is medium
tall, vigorous bush. Good
disease resistance needs
good soil.
Yellow Roses
Summer Love Hybrid tea/
climber
Summer
Sunshine
Deep
Yellow
Upright spreading plant
reaches height from 3 to
3.5 feet. Very large flowers
with 25 petals. Lightly
fragrant. Glossy green
leaves have a bronzy tint
Rosa Tanolg Hybrid Tea Oregold' Miss
Harp, Silhouette
Saffron-
yellow
Upright medium bushy
plant grows from 3 to 4
feet. Lightly scented large
oval flowers with 40 petals.
Dark glossy leaves.

P a g e | 85
names
Colour Description
Rosa New Day Hybrid Tea New Day'
Mabella
Soft
Yellow
Upright, bushy fairly
thorny plant of height 4
feet. Leathery gray-green
foliage. Large double high
centered blooms. Tapered
buds. Spicy fragrance
Lavender Roses
Rosa Angel Face Floribunda
/ climber
Angel Face Rosy
lavender
edged
with
crimson
Low, upright, spreading
plant flowers heavily.
Grows from 3 to 3.5 feet.
Flowers with 30 petals
blooms in clusters. Good
disease resistance with
strong fragrance. Good
cut flower. Glossy leaves.
Rosa Jacum
Floribunda Intrigue Purple-
red
Upright bush of medium
height from 2 to 3 feet.
Powerful citrusy fragrance.
Large attractive flowers,
purple red in colour of 25
petals each. Good foliage.
Rosa Wezip Hybrid Tea/
climber
Paradise,
Passion,
Burning Sky
Medium
lavender
with ruby
edging
Upright bushy medium
plant of height 3 feet.
Double blooms.
Flowers with 28 petals.
Fruity fragrance. Green
foliage; does
poorly in cold, wet
conditions; needs full sun.
TIPS - Pruning
There is usually no real need to prune most grasses at all except to
keep them neat and attractive.
1. Cut ornamental grasses either in the fall to keep them neat
through the winter, or in late winter before new growth comes
out to avoid damaging it for the entire season.
2. Never burn ornamental grasses to remove old growth; this often
kills the center crown and can be dangerous as well.
3. Cut back old foliage to help make handling easier (watch for
wasp nests)
4. Use a saw or sharpened shovel to cut into and divide the center
of the clump through the roots.
5. Dig underneath the portion to be removed.
6. Remove and replant as soon as possible.

Garden garden activities

Recommandé

Recommandé

Contenu connexe

Tendances

Tendances (19)

En vedette

En vedette (8)

Similaire à Garden garden activities

Similaire à Garden garden activities (20)

Dernier

Dernier (12)

Garden garden activities