4. lonelyplanet.com
19th-century Eastern Europe. Hundreds
December
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A TOAST TO THE LADIES of musicians from Russia, Europe and the
ARTS SQUARE WINTER FESTIVAL
USA come to perform in venues around
Ask any Russian woman to name her favourite holiday, and she is sure to say International Women’s Day, celebrated on St Petersburg. The city also hosts seminars www.artsquarewinterfest.ru
8 March. Some cynics say it is the one day of the year when Russian men are nice to their mates. and other cultural events for musicians and Maestro Yury Temirknaov presides over this
International Women’s Day has been recognised in various countries since the late 19th century, but in Russia the music-lovers. musical highlight, which takes place every
festive day has revolutionary roots. On 8 March 1917 textile workers in St Petersburg protested against the food short- year at the Shostakovich Philharmonia (p189)
ages, which were directly related to Russia’s involvement in WWI. The women’s strike ‘for bread and peace’ merged with on pl Iskusstv (Arts Sq; p74). For 10 days at
riots that were spreading throughout the city. The uprising – which would become known as the February Revolution September & October the end of December and the beginning
– forced the abdication of Tsar Nicholas II. Later, the celebrated Soviet feminist and communist Alexandra Kollontai EARLY MUSIC FESTIVAL of January, artists stage both classical and
convinced Lenin to make 8 March an official holiday. contemporary works, including symphonic
www.earlymusic.ru
These days most Russians have forgotten about the political implications of the day. But nobody misses the op- music and opera, as well as less traditional
This ground-breaking musical festival aims
portunity to drink champagne and toast the ladies. musical forms, jazz and puppet theatre.
to revive forgotten masterpieces from the
Middle Ages, the Renaissance and the
GETTING STARTED WHEN TO GO
GETTING STARTED COSTS & MONEY
SERGEI KURYOKHIN INTERNATIONAL in the neighbouring Dom Kino and Rodina baroque era. The festival always features NEW YEAR
FESTIVAL cinemas. the production of a baroque opera, as well Petersburgers see in the New Year (Novy
SKIF; www.kuryokhin.ru as performances by the Catherine the Great God) by trading gifts, drinking champagne
A three-day avant-garde festival in late April FESTIVAL OF FESTIVALS Orchestra. Musicians come from around the and listening to the Kremlin chimes on
brings together an impressive array of inter- www.filmfest.ru world to perform at various venues from the radio or TV. Although Novy God has
national figures for alternative modern music St Petersburg’s annual international film mid-September until early October. See not reached the degree of commercialism
and performance. The festival pays tribute to festival is held during the White Nights in p190 for an interview with the co-director of of Christmas in the West, it is a gift-giving
the eclectic Russian musician Sergei Kury- late June. Co-sponsored by Lenfilm and Early Music Russia. holiday. Dedya Moroz (Grandfather Frost)
okhin, a key figure from the Leningrad rock hosted at cinemas around the city, the and Snezhinka (Snow Girl) dole out treats
and jazz underground who died in 1996. festival is a non-competitive showcase of DEFILE ON THE NEVA to deserving youngsters.
the best Russian and world cinema. Defile na Neve; www.defilenaneve.ru
May
VICTORY DAY
STARS OF WHITE NIGHTS FESTIVAL
One of the most important fashion events
in St Petersburg is held in mid-October at COSTS & MONEY monthly
Experts estimate that the average
www.mariinsky.ru the boutique Defile (p151). There is a week
Celebrating the end of WWII, 9 May is a day of fashion shows, parties and symposia salary in St Petersburg is about R15,000.
From late May until mid-July, this annual
of national and international importance. which allows up-and-coming and estab- Considering that the average for Russia as a
festival is a venue for world premieres,
It holds a special spot on the calendar in St lished designers to showcase their latest whole is about R10,700 per month, it seems
international stars and special tributes to
Petersburg, where residents remember the lines. A second fashion show takes place that Petersburgers are doing pretty well for
the city’s opera and ballet doyens. Perform-
breaking of the Nazi blockade. Crowds as- in April. themselves.
ances are held around the city, especially
semble at Piskaryovskoe Cemetery (p121) to Unfortunately, these numbers do not con-
at the Mariinsky Theatre (p188), the Hermit-
commemorate the victims. A victory parade ST PETERSBURG OPEN vey how far these roubles go, which is not very
age Theatre (p188) and the Rimsky-Korsakov
along Nevsky pr culminates in fireworks www.spbopen.ru far. St Petersburg is the second most expensive
Conservatory (p189). Four weeks of festivities
over the Neva in the evening. Since 1995, St Petersburg has hosted this city in Russia and the twelfth most expensive
culminate in a fabulous ball at Tsarskoe
men’s tennis tournament at the end of city in the world, according to a 2007 report
Selo (p219), which draws the event to a
CITY DAY October. The event has been attracting by Mercer Human Resource Consulting. The
close.
Mass celebrations and merrymaking are players from around the world to com-
held throughout the city centre on 27 May, INTERNATIONAL FESTIVAL OF pete at SCC Peterburgsky Stadium (p200).
the city’s official birthday, known as den CONTEMPORARY ART This is where Marat Safin first attracted HOW MUCH?
goroda (city day). Brass bands, folk-dancing attention when he took the trophy in
www.p10.nonmuseum.ru Litre of petrol: R18-22
and mass drunkenness are the salient consecutive years.
While this event takes place at venues
features of this perennial favourite, which Litre of bottled water: R15-30
around the city, the big bash is at Pushkin-
marks the day when Peter the Great made
a cross on Zayachy Island and announced
skaya 10 (p91), as 30 June is the ‘birthday’ of
this artistic institution. Exhibitions, perform-
November Bottle of Baltika beer: R40
‘Here will be a city’. DAY OF RECONCILIATION & ACCORD Souvenir T-shirt: R500
ances, art auctions and general celebrations
fill the once-abandoned apartment block. The former October Revolution day Bliny: R60
June – 7 November – is still an official holiday,
although it is hardly acknowledged. It still
Admission to the Hermitage: R350
MESSAGE TO MAN July is, however, a big day for flag-waving and Business lunch: R200
www.message-to-man.spb.ru KLEZFEST protesting by old-school Communist Party Cappuccino: R60
A well-respected festival of short, ani- members, especially in front of Gostiny
mated and documentary films, Poslaniye %713 3889; www.klezfest.ru Public toilet: R10
This music festival celebrates Klezmer Dvor (p75) and pl Ostrovskogo (p75). Makes
k Cheloveku is held annually in mid-June for a great photo-op. Matryoshka (nesting doll): R500
music, the Jewish folk music from 18th- and
18 19