Pilgrim Ways in Norway
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Pilgrim Ways in Norway
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- A pilgrimage is a journey to a sacred place or shrine of importance to a person's beliefs and faith. For some of the “modern” pilgrims it might also be a cultural journey to gain better insight and understanding – on a personal and / or spiritual level. In 1987 the Council of Europe accepted the Ways leading to Santiago de Compostela as the First European Cultural Route. The philosophy : To rediscover the Ways to Santiago, to take note of everything that the movement towards Compostela brought to the European cultural identity, to follow these ways with a sense of the future. The Pilgrim Ways of Europe have over the years – been arenas of cultural understanding, arenas in which one can literally cross borders and become acquainted with a diversity which is inspiring.
- A Cultural Route Connecting Scandinavia with Europe In Northern Spain, on the pilgrim way to Santiago de Compostela, we find these characteristic pilgrim road signs. One week’s walk, 222 km from Santiago, you will see this road sign with directions and distances to the major pilgrim sites in Europe. Please note the sign on top, it points out the direction to the city of Trondheim, a major site for pilgrimages in Norway.
- Nidaros – A destination for pilgrims The city Trondheim or Nidaros (historical name for Trondheim) is perhaps one of the northernmost sites of pilgrimage in Christendom, situated only 500 km from the Polar Circle The city was first mentioned as a destination for pilgrims in A.D.1075 in the chronicles of the learned German scholar Adam of Bremen. He wrote the absolute first guide for the pilgrim way from the European continent to the shrine of Saint Olav in Norway: “The Norwegians’ capital is civitas Trondemnis , the city of Trondheim, which is now adorned with churches and visited by a great many people. In this city rests the body of the very holy King and Martyr Olav. At his grave, the Lord even today works wondrous miracles, so that the many who hope to be helped by the good deed of this holy martyr flock there from distant lands." Saint Olav's shrine in Trondheim was a destination for pilgrims – mainly from the Nordic countries, for nearly five hundred years – from the late 11th century to the Reformation. The shrine had a reputation for curing illnesses, and pilgrims came to Nidaros for redemption and for cure. Thanks to the recent revival of the pilgrim traditions, Trondheim’s main hospital has recently been named Saint Olav's Hospital .
- Statue depicting Saint Olav, on the Western front of Nidaros cathedral in Trondheim The Viking who became a Saint Olav II Haraldsson (ca 995 – 1030), later known as Saint Olav, was king of Norway in the 11th century (1015 -1028 ). When still in his teens he set out as a Viking to the coasts of Normandy and Galicia. He also served as an officer for noblemen in England and France. He came under Christian influence, and at the age of 19 he was baptized in Rouen. A year after (probably in 1015 ) – while still on an “expedition” in Galicia – Olav had a calling to go back and make Norway a united and Christian country. So – he returned to his native land with a firm resolve to follow that calling. At first it appeared that everything was going his way. He became the first national king to effectively wield his power throughout the entire country, eventually establishing an administrative network and a legal system which made it possible to hold the country together. But some chieftains and farmers in the inland region and in the north gradually became dissatisfied with Olav's rule and he was forced to flee the country. His final year on earth, A.D. 1030, was spent with his brother-in-law Grand Duke Jaroslav in Kiev. In 1030 he set off homeward to try to regain power. The decisive battle came at Stiklestad –north of Trondheim– on 29 July. However, outnumbered and overpowered by his opponents, the brave King fell in battle.
- King Olav dies at Stiklestad This drawing (by Halfdan Egedius) gives an impression of how King Olav Haraldsson died in the battle at Stiklestad north of Trondheim. His body was removed from the battleground and smuggled in secrecy to the city of Trondheim where he first was buried in a sandbank by the river. The Battle of Stiklestad must have appeared as the definitive downfall of a failed king. However, the tables were turned: The two main objectives Olav had been fighting for, uniting and christening Norway, gained their final victory through his death as a martyr. It is safe to say that the death of no other man has had such major impact on the history of Norway. The legendary stone he leaned on when he fell – is kept as a [disputed] relic in Stiklestad Church. And Stiklestad continues to attract visitors from near and far, as we shall see.
- Audience attending the Saint Olav Drama at Stiklestad To commemorate Olav’s martyrdom and the historic impact it had on the nation’s history, we have the Saint Olav drama which has been performed every year since the 1950es (1954) . This is an open-air play which re-eneacts events that led up to the battle at Stiklestad and King Olav’s death and martyrdom. Stiklestad is visited by more than 140 000 people each year, while 50 000 attend the Saint Olav Drama. Let us have a closer look at Saint Olav, Norway’s Patron Saint and perpetual King . Known also as the Servant of Christ.
- Olav’s coffin was opened a year after his death.Painting from the St Olav frontal in Nidaros cathedral (around 1320–30). The pronunciation of Olav's sainthood A year passed before bishop Grimkjell decided to open the King's secret grave in a sandbank on the riverside (on the 3rd of August 1031). Snorre, Norway’s saga-teller, describes what happened: "With Bishop Grimkjell present, King Olav's coffin was opened; a sweet fragrance arose from it. The bishop then uncovered the king's face, and his appearance was in no way changed, and his cheeks were red as if he had just fallen asleep. St. Olav and nature According to legend, springs welled up, whereever Olav travelled. The fact that many natural phenomena - and springs are linked to the name of Olav, shows that his presence was connected with the revitalising processes in nature (flowers are named after him) . The many springs of Olav were also considered to be rejuvenating. [St Olav was canonized in 1164 by Pope Alexander III]
- The Viking who became a Saint As King, Olav was known as the law maker. Much of the legislation from the early Christian period is attributed to him. Among the important virtues on which Saint Olav’s Law was founded, are mercy and man’s duty to protect the weak. It’s worth mentioning that Olav’s understanding of Norway’s becoming a part of Christendom and of Europe is greatly influenced by his role model the Frankish king Charlemagne (742 -814), Like Charlemagne, Olav aimed to: be the Church’s defender establish law and order strengthen the bonds with Europe [Medieval sculpture of Olav from Sweden (Sällstorp, Halland). Photo by Lennart Karlsson]
- Nidaros Cathedral – Norway’s National Sanctuary The first Cathedral of Nidaros was built in the 11th century. It has has undergone continous restoration over the centuries. This is what it looks like today. The shrine of Saint Olav was placed on the high altar of this cathedral in the late 11th century, and pilgrims flocked to this shrine from near and far. When the unification of the Norway was completed (in the 11th century), Trondheim's status as the capital was established. Norway’s kings came to Trondheim to be hailed. New Kings were obliged to swear their oath of allegiance on the shrine of St. Olav (from A.D. 1204). Since Norway gained its independence in 1814, this cathedral has continued to be the site where kings have been crowned and blessed.
- Saint James and Saint Olav celebrated 25 and 29 July See the wreaths on the statues of Saint James and Saint Olav, the former as the Patron Saint of Santiago de Compostela and for Christian pilgrimage per se; the latter as the Viking who converted to Christianity and became Apostle and Patron Saint of Norway. Please note the couple standing by the church door. We shall see more of them.
- The statue of Saint James on the West front of Nidaros Cathedral The statue of Saint James is adorned with a wreath on his Feast day 25 July. We shall see that there’s a pilgrim connection between Saint James and Saint Olav.
- Ole and Maria reach Nidaros cathedral Norwegian Ole Gjerdum met Spanish Maria Teresa Dias Blanco on the Camino to Santiago some years ago (in 2002). Ole and Maria Teresa have since then - in stages - walked all the way from Northern Norway (Trondenes church near Harstad) to Santiago de Compostela in Spain. They have been hospitaleros in Spain; now they are hosts at a skiing resort near Oslo.
- Two pilgrims Saint James – patron Saint for pilgrims - and Saint Olav – patron Saint of Norway - meet under the cockle shell. It’s the emblem of the Norwegian Confraternity of Saint James . The motif is from a 12th century reliquary shrine in a Norwegian Stave Chuch (Heddal).
- The Cult of Saint Olav in Europe From the time prior to the Reformation we know of at least 340 Olav churches and Olav chapels. Here on this map we can see how widespread the Olav churches and chapels were (see black dots). The easternmost Olav church is in Novgorod, Russia, and the southernmost is in the Turkish capital of Istanbul. The legacy after Saint Olav is international. After he had been designated a saint in August 1031, the cult of Olav spread throughout the Nordic countries, on the British Isles and in Hanseatic towns along the Baltic Sea, finding adherents in the Netherlands, and Normandy, and even as far away as Spain, Russia and Constantinople. The oldest surviving picture of Olav was painted on a column in the Nativity Church in Bethlehem (12th century) Why did he become so popular? What was it that made a former Viking loved and venerated all over the the Nordic countries and in Northern Europe? We shall answer that question, but first, let’s go to Bethlehem…
- The Nativity Church in Bethlehem This site celebrating the birth of Jesus has been a destination for pilgrims for centuries. The still-intact church, originally built in the fourth century is entered through a low narrow door. And inside…
- The oldest surviving picture of Saint Olav The oldest surviving picture of Olav was painted on a column in the Nativity Church in the 12th century. Legend has it that the painting was commissioned by a pilgrim whose silhouette we can just barely see at the bottom left hand corner of the picture, or medieval grafitti, if you will… Why did he become a hero? Olav became a saint deeply loved by the people because he appealed to more or less all groups. He was a hero after the fashion of the times, a knight of the faith, as if springing from the imagery of the stories of the knights. champion of peasants and sailors patron saint of travelling merchants and city dwellers defender of the monarchy protector of the needy Now let’s move forward into the present….
- Flagstone with the pilgrim symbol at Kongsvold. Flagstones are more suitable than wooden poles as signposts in the mountainous parts of the way. Pilgrim Renaissance The modern renaissance for pilgrimages in Norway started in the late 1950es and developed step by step (pun intended) thanks to pilgrims who just started walking the old paths on their own. Neither the church nor the authorities had –at that time– encouraged this, and the modern “grass-root” pilgrims deserve credit as pioneers. The first pilgrim way to be signposted by the authorities, was the path from Oslo – to Trondheim. It was inaugurated in 1997 by Norway’s Crown Prince Haakon Magnus. Since then, new pilgrim paths to Trondheim –covering 2000 kilometers– have been prepared and signposted. One could perhaps say that the pilgrim ways –or the Saint Olav's Ways– represent Norway’s memory of its history.
- The Pilgrim ideals and the Ash-lad The legendary Norwegian fairy tale hero Espen the ash-lad – here rendered by the artist Theodor Kittelsen – has something in common with the pilgrim: His senses are open, he can hear the voices of nature, he can see and help the ones who suffer, and shares with those in need. It is he (the Ash-lad) who sees and meets the challenges. The moral of these fairytales has survived the middle ages, and parents – and grandparents - keep telling their children about this «anti-hero» who shows charity and helps the weak and the needy. Universal virtues for all times, one would hope… The modern pilgrim is here to stay, we like what he represents: She or he dares to leave the safe and familiar and enter into a landscape in which she or he becomes a peregrinus – a stranger.
- Gema Let us begin with Gema Aguera Bugliot from La Coruna in Galicia who walked the entire pilgrim route from Oslo to Trondheim in 1997. After resting a few days in Trondheim, she continued on foot all the way to the North Cape, Norway's northernmost point. A pilgrim who will certainly be remembered, but perhaps not your most typical one - if there is such a thing as a typical pilgrim .
- Princess on a pilgrimage Princess Martha Louise of Norway and her husband Ari Behn posing by the pilgrim monument by Nidaros cathedral. Some years ago, before their wedding in Trondheim (in May 2002), they set out on a pilgrimage that lasted ’only’ three days, covering a distance of 60 km / 35 miles. Their choice gives you an idea of what some pilgrims do; they prefer shorter stretches to the entire distance from Oslo to Trondheim, a stretch that you would need 30 days to cover.
- We are the sons of Abraham Muslims have have also walked the pilgrim ways of Norway. A long story made short: A Muslim immigrant in Trondheim by the name of Kemalettin came to see the pilgrim pastor in Trondheim one day, and said: ” We're all the sons of Abraham. There ought to be closer contact between Muslims, Jews and Christians. Let’s co-operate and see how we can remain friends despite our differences, and let’s see if I can help you become a better Christian, and you in return can help me to be a better Muslim.” Eventually they both went to Turkey where they attended a conference on religious dialogue. Some time later, the pilgrim pastor brought some of his friends, and Kemalettin some of his, and together they went on a walk along the pilgrim way to Trondheim. This picture is from their walk over the mountains of Dovre.
- Plain pilgrims These are pilgrims crossing the border between Sweden and Norway in July. Please don’t be discouraged by the snow-capped mountains! We shall have a look at some of the more “ordinary” pilgrims in Norway. How many are there, for example? - Last year (in 2008) 300 pilgrims received their pilgrim diploma. 800 people visited the Pilgrims’ Centre, while 4 000 attended the Saint Olav’s vigil (as pilgrims) on the 29th of July, Saint Olav’s feast day. If we were to include visitors to Stiklestad (the place where Olav fell), and perhaps we should, the number of pilgrims would rise significantly. On your own or with a group? It is possible to go on a long pilgrim walk on your own, but you would need to be an experienced hiker. Good planning would also be necessary. But, it’s indeed possible, and many have walked the whole way. The majority of pilgrims who walk the Saint Olav’s Ways, choose to do so in organized groups, often with a pilgrim guide. The guide will not only lead the way, he or she is also has knowledge about the history, the sights, the flora and fauna of the landscape you walk through. There are many advantages of walking in a group: The practical details of meals and accommodations have been planned by the pilgrim guide. You can thoroughly enjoy the walk. You will get to know an interesting group of people. People from all walks of life and with different outlooks make a diversified mix indeed. The scenery and the simplicity of the pilgrim walk eliminate social differences and inspire dialogues.
- I shall conclude my presentation with this picture of two fellow pilgrims who are enjoying a moment of quiet bliss on their pilgrimage from Sweden to Norway. Let my try to express what I think is the essence of the pilgrim experience: It is the physical challenges, It is contact with and impulses from new cultures, It is the beauty of the environment It is close encounters with a diverse cultural heritage And last, but not least, it is the people you meet along the way The Pilgrim ways have become common ground for international understanding – and indeed also, for religious diversity and dialogue. Certainly ideals to appreciate in this day and age
- Pax et bonum This pilgrim guide-book for Trondheim is available in French, Spanish, German, English and Norwegian. http://butikk.tapirforlag.no/no/node/1171 Finally, let me finish with an old international pilgrim greeting: Pax et Bonum, i.e. Peace and everything good to everyone.