Summer 2012 2 hobby greenhouse

Summer 2012 - Vol 34, No.3

THE WINNER! • PROPAGATING • GREENHOUSE SELECTION• FICUS

Contents Summer 2012 Volume 34, No. 3

Features
Departments
10 We Have a Winner!
by Karen Saia
7 Your Questions Answered
12 The Tool Shed: Burgon & Ball
18 Mini-Survey
14 Choosing the Right 26 From Hobby Greenhouse
Greenhouse 32 Round Robin
by Tom Karasek 37 Book Review
38 The Back Door

16 Propagating Plants Etcetera
By Roger Marshall
8 Photography Competition
25 HGA Writing Guidelines
31 Classifieds
20 Teaching Young 34 HGA Bookshop
Greenhouse 36 Discounts
Gardeners
by Cindy French-Curtis

22: Ficus: The
Workhorse of the
Landscape
by Paula Szilard

28: Ed Egolf’s
Greenhouse
By Tom Eckert
Front cover: Dahlias in the editor’s garden
Back cover: Signs of summer, Impatiens

Hobby Greenhouse is the official quarterly magazine of the Hobby Greenhouse Association. It is published in the
Winter, Spring, Summer and Fall. The mission of Hobby Greenhouse is to provide a vehicle for sharing member
information and for printing articles on greenhouse construction, maintenance and on indoor gardening. It carries
advertising and is available to non-members.

Hobby Greenhouse Page 3

Editor’s Note:
M
ore change awaits you. We are now offering a PDF version of Hobby
Greenhouse magazine, which can be downloaded onto your computer
or hand-held device. This PDF version will be sent at no charge to all
current Hobby Greenhouse Association members for whom we have an email
address. You don't have to do anything. Just wait for it to arrive. If you don't
want it, simply opt out. When your current membership is ready for renewal,
you’ll have the option of continuing to get both the paper and PDF versions of
the magazine or receiving only the PDF version at a reduced rate of $14 a year.
New members will have this same choice. In this way, we hope to increase our
appeal to younger generations of greenhouse gardeners for whom e-books and
e-zines are a routine part of daily life.
Another change you’ll notice is a new section on garden tools in this issue. Both good and bad
garden tools are being sold today, and it is always useful to get some help distinguishing between the
two. We plan on trying out a variety of greenhouse tools and telling you what we learn. This month
we feature tools by the English company Burgon & Ball, which has kindly given us the stainless
steel tool set shown on page 13. We’ll send this premium tool set to the person who brings to our
association the most new members over the next two months, so I encourage you to sign up every
greenhouse gardener you can find and help our association grow.
Finally, I call your attention to the mini-survey in this issue. It is hard to operate in a vacuum, so
we’d like to find out exactly what you’d like to see in this magazine. With your help, we can feature
articles and information specifically tailored to your interests. So please fill out the survey and send
it in.

Happy gardening,

Roger

Our Contributors Without them there would be no magazine
Karen Saia began gardening as a child, learning from, and helping, her father with his
vegetable & flower gardens. She currently gardens at her home in Ashland, MA. In
the winter, she enjoys window gardens of both tropical & succulent plants, especially
those with colorful foliage. She has been a member of the Hobby Greenhouse &
Indoor Gardeners of Massachusetts chapter of HGA for over ten years.

Tom Karasek is the president of HGA, is retired after 35 years as an engineer and
engineering manager followed by management of a large garden center. He has
assembled one kit greenhouse and built four greenhouses from scratch, including
a sun-room addition to his home. Tom resides with wife Sherron in a home they
recently built themselves in Longview, Washington.

Paula Szilard is currently a master gardener in the Denver area. She grows hundreds
of tropical plants in her sunroom, enclosed porch and basement grow room. She
has converted her front lawn into an edible landscape and usually plants a large
vegetable garden in the back. She also serves as Vice President for Programs for
the Tropical Plant Society, (www.tropicalplantsociety.org), a group of local tropical
plant enthusiasts.

Cindy loves everything about gardening; from seed selection, to planting, the
vibrancy of her flower colors, to the preservation of produce for winter. My husband,
Jim, and I live in the mountains of Colorado with our horses. pets and greenhouse.
We share 6 children, 10 grandchildren and our love of the outdoors.

Page 4 Hobby Greenhouse

HOBBY GREENHOUSE ASSOCIATION, INC
February 8, 2012
OFFICERS
President: TOM KARASEK TEL/FAX: 360-578-1228 1/2011-1/2013
1975 Coal Creek Rd., Longview, WA 98632 EMAIL: tomsherron@msn.com

Vice President: MARY P. LAWRENCE TEL: 724-744-7082 1/2011-1/2013
2049 Baughman Rd., Jeannette, PA 15644 EMAIL: marylawrence2@me.com
Secretary: DONNA L. BOCOX TEL: 515-991-6610 1/2012 - 1/2014
10746 NW 103rd Court, Granger, IA 50109 EMAIL: cactuslover@wildblue.net
Treasurer: TOM ECKERT TEL: 717-766-3492 1/2012 - 1/2014
229 Meadow Trail, Dillsburg, PA 17019-9532 EMAIL: tjghg@verizon.net
Past President: RICHARD A. SCHREIBER TEL: 515-981-4360
922 Norwood Dr., Norwalk, IA 50211-1329 EMAIL: schreiberra@hotmail.com

DIRECTORS
Director of Finance: Vacant 1/2010 - 1/2013

Director of Programs Vacant 1/2010 - 1/2013
and Activities
Cyberspace PAUL HOLZWARTH TEL: 508-865-1609
Connections: 58 Griggs Rd., Sutton, MA 01590 EMAIL: holzwarthp@charter.net
Round Robin Flight JACKIE PENDERGAST TEL: 623-374-2816
Chairman: 29747 N. 130th Dr., Peoria, AZ 85383 EMAIL: Jackiepen@aol.com
Chapter Coordinator: TOM ECKERT TEL: 717-766-3492
229 Meadow Trail, Dillsburg, PA 17019-9532 EMAIL: tjghg@verizon.net
Director of RICHARD A. SCHREIBER TEL: 515-981-4360 1/2012 - 1/2015
Membership: 922 Norwood Dr., Norwalk, IA 50211-1329 EMAIL: schreiberra@hotmail.com
Director of JANICE L. HALE TEL: 978-369-3421 1/2012 - 1/2015
Publications: 80 Deaconess Rd., Suite 443, Concord, MA 01742-4173 EMAIL: jhale@world.std.com
HG Editor: ROGER MARSHALL TEL: 401-423-1400
44 Ft. Wetherill Rd., Jamestown, RI 02835 EMAIL: editorhobbygreeanhouse@gmail.com.
Director of Public RICK JARVIS TEL: 573-422-9912 1/2011 - 1/2014
Relations: 37860 Hwy. 42 West, Dixon, MO 65459 EMAIL: rick.jarvis@hughes.net
Publicity Chairman: BERNIE WIENER TEL: 610-446-2160
229 Ellis Road, Havertown, PA 19083 EMAIL: wiener1@verizon.net
Web Master: JOE KERENICK TEL: 803 609 0322
210 St. Mark Dr., West Columbia, SC 29170 EMAIL: jkerenick@windstream.net
Director of Resources Vacant 1/2011 - 1/2014
Help & Advice Coord: Vacant
Historian: BARBARA W. WICH TEL: 574-674-9170
55780 Timber Lane, Elkhart, IN 46514-9456 EMAIL: wichrichard@msn.com

Webmaster and Advertising Sales Wanted

HGA is looking for a new webmaster to replace Joe Kerenick who is retiring. If you are interested
contact President Tom Karasek at the email address above. Thanks Joe, for all your work.

HGA is also looking for a person to go out and sell advertising for Hobby Greenhouse magazine.
It shouldn’t take too long, just a few hours a week, but we really do need to build our advertising
base to allow us to bring more exciting developments to the magazine and to the association. If
you are interested in either position please contact Tom Karasek at the email address above.


Editor: Roger Marshall
Write for Us
Contributors: Paula Szilard, Cindy French-
Curtis, Tom Karasek, Karen Saia Tell our readers about your experiences
Hobby Greenhouse Magazine (ISSN in your greenhouse. Hobby Greenhouse
1040-6212) is published quarterly by the magazine is looking for stories about
Hobby Greenhouse Association, a non-
profit 501(c)3 organization, to promote greenhouse gardening, growing
greenhouse and indoor gardening as a techniques, and raising plants under
hobby or avocation, and to disseminate
practical and instructioive information cover.
related to the erection, maintenance, and
operation of a greenhouse by a hobbyist.
All indoor gardeners have a plant (or plants)
Subscription/Membership Rates they love to grow. Many of us have discovered
Member: US $28 (Two years $54) new growing techniques and tools that others
Electronic Version ............$14 want to know about. Many of us built our own
Contributing Member $60 greenhouse and learned several valuable
Sustaining Member $100 lessons. Why not share your knowledge with
Canada and Mexico $30, Two years $60) other readers.
Canadian and International Money orders Write about your passion. Hobby Greenhouse
payable in US funds. magazine is looking for articles about 1200
Single copy non-member price US $3.50, words in length. If you write one you’ll get free
overseas $4.50. membership for one year in HGA. (Shorter
articles compensated proportionately.) If you
Correspondence All advertising have or can take photographs that’s even better.
correspondence should be addressed (Contact the Editor for ways to submit a story
to Hobby Greenhouse Association, 80 and save the information on page 25.)
Deaconess Rd., Suite 443, Concord, MA
01742-4173 Tel: 978 369-3421 Editor: Roger Marshall
Email: jhale@world.std.com email: editorhobbygreehouse@gmail.com

Editorial Correspondence should be
addressed to Roger Marshall, Email: Deadlines for stories and advertising
Editorhobbygreenhouse@gmail.com Spring issue: Jan15th
Summer issue: April 15th
The Hobby Greenhouse Association reserves Fall issue: July 15th
the right to refuse any advertisement. Winter issue: Oct 15th
Disclaimer Every care is taken in compiling
this magazine to ensure the accuracy
of the articles but the editor and HGA In the Fall Issue
assume no responsibility for any effects
therefrom. While care is taken of material We take a look at Des Park’s Elite Series
submitted, we cannot be responsible for
loss or damage. No portion of this material greenhouse and hot pepper production.
may be reprinted without permision. Tom Karasek continues his series on what to
look for in a new greenhouse.
© Copyright 2012 We tell you how to winterize your greenhouse
Hobby Greenhouse Association to save on heating costs.
80 Deaconess Road, Suite 443 We have new products and tools coming over
Concord, MA 01742-4173
the next few months that we’ll tell you about.
Printed on 30% Post Consumer Recycled Plus we’ll have all your usual departments
Paper and sections.
PRINTED IN THE USA by E Graphics LLC
http://www.hobbygreenhouse.org


Your Questions Answered
Note: All responses may be edited for length and clarity.

Black and Green Aphids

I have been fighting green and black aphids constantly for years. I, like so many others, bring in plants into the
greenhouse in late fall. Usually in too big of a hurry. Mums are terrible for aphids, both kinds. I change my sprays
and usually get them under control. What other people doing to combat them?
Bob Carney FL

I purchase ladybugs (lady beetles) once or twice in the spring (or as they become available), make sure I keep
the doors and vents closed for a week to 10 days, and that usually gets them under control. Other times of year I
use insecticidal soap spray as needed but not when ladybugs are in action. Spraying with insecticidal soap (really
drenching plants) before you bring them into the GH in the fall also helps. You can really drench them, then spray
briskly again (1/2 hour or so) with regular water to wash off the soapy scum. I do not use any other pesticides.
Alice Dionne, WA

An old gardener once told me that the best way to get rid of aphids is to regularly spray your plants with a solution
of water into which garlic has been left for a while. The garlic water gets rid of aphids and then you can move the
plants into your greenhouse without problems. If you do suspect aphids on your plants, make an isolation chamber
in the greenhouse with either a large glass fish tank and a close fitting pane of glass as a cover or get one of the
inexpensive small plastic greenhouses and use it as an isolation chamber. Put your plants into it and leave them
there until you are sure your plants have no aphids then move them into your greenhouse. You can even move
the isolation chamber into the greenhouse as long as you open it outside until you are sure that your plants have
no aphids. I'd also leave a can of garlic water in the isolation chamber, if it doesn't kill off the aphids it'll give them
bad breath!
Roger Marshall, RI

It is important to NOT rush bringing your plants inside, but inspect for pests. Even an alcohol spray will help greatly
in reducing the infestation brought indoors. Once indoors, the environment is ripe for spreading. Follow up every
7 days until there are no signs of infestation. Doing so on sunny days when the temperature is high will be more
effective because the little buggers are more active and not prone to hide, or be slow. It is not about what you use,
but being diligent about it.
Greg New FL (continued on next page)


Your Questions Answered... again

In the summer I remove all of the plants from my greenhouse in the spring (March or April,depending on the weather).
In fall, around September, I go through a greenhouse cleaning process. I don’t know how scientific it is but the only
year I had a problem with insects was the year I neglected to do it. My greenhouse is 12 x 24 with a door at each
end. I remove the benches that can be taken out (some are built in) and first blow out all of the sand and debris.
Then I wash it all down with a hose. Then I wash it all down with bleach in a hose end sprayer (mixes the bleach
and water). I let it dry, then sweep and blow some more. I have a lot of tropical plants and all sorts of insects love
them. I don’t like to use pesticides but if necessary, while the plant is still outside I might spray with insecticidal
soap. But once they’re in the greenhouse, if I see a bug I isolate that plant and spray with plain rubbing alcohol. I
do on occasion get fungus gnats and, although annoying, they don’t hurt anything. I always have lizards and toads
that sneak in and overwinter, and I don’t want to poison them, or myself with anything stronger. I really think the
most important thing is to start every fall with a really clean greenhouse. And, if a plant is really infested, toss it.
Carol Mirabella Finch GA

NEW CHAPTER BEING FORMED
PHILLY HOBBY GREENHOUSE
Meetings will be held at : The Horticulture Center, West Fairmount Park, Philadelphia, PA

The purpose of this organization shall be to stimulate and promote interest in growing plants under
different conditions. The Horticulture Center has five greenhouses where all types of plants are
grown and outdoor experimental gardens. This location attracts many visitors during the growing
season.

Any Questions Email: wiener1@verizon.net
Visit the website:http://begoniasociety.tripod.com/phillyhobbygreenhouse

Photography Competition
Remember to take lots of pictures this summer with your camera. In conjunction with Charley’s
Greenhouse we are holding a photography competition. Full details were announced in the last issue
of Hobby Greenhouse magazine. The competition is open to paid-up Hobby Greenhouse Association
members, so get your friends to join us now. Images will have to be high resolution, which rules
out most cell phone cameras. Plan on taking lots of pictures this summer and entering them for the
fall deadline. You can win up to $500 worth of products from Charley’s Greenhouse. (Check the
photo guide on page 37 of the Spring Issue.) Winners will be announced in the winter 2013 issue.


Membership Services
HGA is a non-profit organization of people who garden in hobby greenhouses, window greenhouses,
light gardens, and other indoor areas. Membership in HGA includes a subscription to Hobby Greenhouse
magazine. Other membership benefits include round-robin letters, email correspondence, help and advice on
greenhouse gardening, and discounts on greenhouses, supplies, and print materials.
Membership questions: Richard Schreiber, IA 515 981-4360 hgamembershipdirector@hotmail.com
Membership Renewal
Your membership in HGA expires two weeks after the date printed in the HGA membership card on the back
cover of Hobby Greenhouse magazine. In order to avoid missing any issues, please renew your membership
before this date.
Change of Address/Corrections
Please notify us of any changes or corrections in your address as soon as possible. Bulk mail is not
forwarded. You could lose a copy of the magazine if it is undeliverable.
Membership Dues
US: $28/yr, $54/2yrs, Contributing Membership $60, Sustaining Membership $100, Canada and Mexico
$30/yr $58/ 2yrs (Canadian money orders payable in US dollars) Mail to: HGA Membership, 922 Norwood
Dr.,Norwalk, IA 50211-1329. To pay by credit or debit card: www.hobbygreenhouse.org.
Membership Questions: schreiberra@hotmailcom
Missing Issues: Publications Office, 80 Deaconess Rd., Suite 443, Concord, MA 01742-4173 or jhale@
world.std.com
Advertising: Advertising rates and information can be obtained from Publications Director Janice L. Hale. The
Hobby Greenhouse Association reserves the right to refuse an advertisement.

Important News
Hobby Greenhouse magazine is now available in digital format (pdf) for your computer! Anyone can now
view a sample copy of the Spring issue on our web site www.hobbygreenhouse.org I-Pad users can read the
magazine using Adobe Flash compatible browsers such as Photon.
Dues for full membership in HGA with the digital version only is $14 per year worldwide. The savings are
possible because HGA won’t be mailing the paper copy, only sending the magazine as an attachment to an
e-mail.
If this interests you, and you are a current member, send an email to: Richard Schreiber at schreiberra@
hotmail.com and ask to receive the digital version only. Richard will extend your expiration date.
If you would like to become a member of HGA with full benefits or renew your membership, but receive only
the digital version of the magazine, mail a check or money order for $14 with your e-mail address to: Richard
Schreiber, 922 Norwood Dr., Norwalk, IA 50211-1329. You may also join or renew your membership at our
web site as before, but you now have the option of full membership with only a digital copy of the magazine.
All members receiving the paper magazine will also receive the new digital magazine unless they opt out by
e-mail to: Richard Schreiber at hgamembershipdirector@hotmail.com.

Show your colors
Get Your HGA member sticker for car or greenhouse. Send an email to Dick Schreiber at schreiberra@
hotmail.com and ask for your sticker. Put it on your car or your greenhouse so that visiting greenhouse
experts (well, maybe not all are experts), will know that you are a member of HGA.

Send Us Your Pictures
I know many of you take pictures of your plants especially when they are in flower. If you have
high-resolution pictures of your flowers, your greenhouse (inside preferably), your plants, with or
without you in the picture, send them in to us. We are always looking for really nice images. Who
knows, you may end up on the cover of HG. If you haven’t entered them into the photography
competition you should do so. It will give you a chance to show others how nice your greenhouse
is, what you grow, and maybe you’ll make new friends.


We have a Winner!
By Karen Saia

W e have a winner! That was the subject line
of the e-mail sent to members of the
Boston Chapter of Hobby Greenhouse
Association, on March 13th, judging day for
skillful cultivation”). They were a beautiful
Rhipsalidopsis gaertneri (miniature Easter
Cactus), and a blooming Veltheimia bracteata.
Except for two indoor primroses, all the plants in
the 2012 Boston Flower Show. Art Scarpa had the display came from Art’s personal collection.
taken the “Small Bay Window at the Flower The two indoor primroses, grown from seed by
Show” project from the idea phase to Blue Hobby Greenhouse member, Rodney Barker,
Ribbon status! Art planned the Bay Window added delicate, colorful flowers to the display.
display, recorded all necessary paperwork, In addition, in the Amateur Horticulture
readied plants for display, and chose only those section of the show, both Art and Rodney won
plants that were in perfect condition on entry blue ribbons for individual plants! Rodney’s
day. The “Judges Comments” stated: “Overall Blue ribbon plant was a Primula polyanthus.
appearance and selection of plants exquisite.” The class it was entered in was “A plant grown
Two plants received Cultural Certificates of the from seed over one year old” in a greenhouse.
Mass. Horticultural Society (“awarded to growers Art’s beautiful and blooming Rat Tail Cactus
of plants which show evidence of unusually (Aporocactus flagelliformis) won several awards:

Opposite page: The bay window display with
the Blue Ribbon.
This page left: Art’s Rat Tail Cactus.
Top Right: Art Scarpa.
Bottom right: Rhipsalidopsis gaertneri/
Miniature Easter Cactus (won Cultural
Certificate).

Blue ribbon, Cruso Award (“outstanding Art Scarpa is truly a plant enthusiast, and has
effort by an individual exhibitor in the been described as a “local horticultural legend!”
Amateur Horticulture Competition”), Bennett He has told our chapter members that he prefers
Award (“demonstrates the most outstanding to grow miniature plants, because he has room
horticultural achievement in the individual for more plants if he collects the small ones!
entry classes”), and a Cultural Certificate! Art Art has been a long time member, and officer,
modestly reminded members that the winning of both Hobby Greenhouse & Indoor Gardeners
plant was given to him, five years earlier, by of Massachusetts, and of the Cactus & Succulent
another Hobby Greenhouse member, Phyllis Society of Massachusetts. He has a large glass
Podren! Phyl says that “old veteran” cactus greenhouse at his home, which is packed with
bloomed faithfully, in time for the Flower Show, plants! And, he often arrives here and there with
every year, for over thirty years, before she gave “Art Scarpa’s Travelling Plant Show!”
it to Art!

The Tool Shed New and Interesting Items for Your Garden and Greenhouse

Burgon and Ball Greenhouse Tools
By Roger Marshall

S
ome 10 or 12 years ago I was at a garden center in of tools allows you to have one for almost every job in
England, and I spied what seemed to be an incredibly the garden. For me, there’s nothing quite like having a
well-made, stainless steel, potting soil scoop. It was matching set of well-made tools in a handy location ready
expensive, but I figured it was a scoop that could be to do the job they were designed for.
handed down for generations. So I bought it, and I liked it The hand cultivator is one such tool, which looks
so much that over subsequent trips to England I gradually somewhat like a spider ready to dig into the garden and
purchased a whole collection of these Burgon & Ball rip those weeds apart. The weeder (a slim knife-like tool
stainless steel garden tools. (See above!) I have become a with protective plastic on the sharp edges) allows you to
big fan of the award-winning Burgon & Ball products (visit get between bricks in a walkway or planks of wood on your
www.burgonandball.com and you’ll understand why). All greenhouse shelves to dig out virtually anything. The B &
the ones I own are used constantly in my greenhouse, B potting soil scoop is different from the garden soil scoop
and on almost every visit to England I succumb to the in that it will scoop up a full four-inch pot load of soil in
temptation to buy more. one go. In contrast, the garden soil scoop has digging power
Now Burgon & Ball has an outlet in America (www. as its primary goal. It possesses serrated edges designed to
Burgonand BallUSA.com). You can also purchase these cut easily even into compacted soil. Another of my tools is
tools retail at Shovel and Hoe (www.shovelandhoe.com) or the weeding finger, which looks like its name implies – a
wholesale at Terrebonne Limited (www.terrebonnelimited. long, thin finger with a razor-sharp talon on the end. It lets
com), both of which online stores have other interesting you get down under those pesky weeds and uproot them
gardening tools available. in a snap. A tool that I use often is the dibber. You simply
Why are the Burgon & Ball tools so desirable in my stick it in the soil and drop your bulb or plant into the hole
estimation? Well, for one thing, they are made of quality that it’s created. I don’t have a regular B & B trowel (must
materials. The working parts are stainless steel and the put it on my to-get list!), but I do have a long, thin widger
handles are English beech. Each tool also comes with a (don’t you love the name!) for digging deep into soil. It
leather loop so that you can easily hang it on the wall at the enables you to make quick work of weeds with long, thin
back of your potting table. So far, only one of my leather taproots, such as those of dandelions, or to harvest plants
loops has broken, and this was after about 10 years of use. with similar roots, such as horseradish.
And it is not just quality materials that make B & B The only change I would recommend for my B & B tools
products stand out. These tools also fit into your hand is to make the hand-held garden hoe sharper. My hoe looks
extremely well. I have big hands, which can make it as if it still has the cut metal edge. Needless to say, it is very
difficult to find garden tools that feel truly comfortable. hard to put an edge on stainless steel with a file. I had to
With B & B each tool feels perfect. What’s more, the range use a bench grinder.


One thing I’d like to experiment with is the strength handled rake it would be perfect for my greenhouse beds.
of a B & B trowel. I find that many trowels bend at the When working in the confined space of my greenhouse, I
bottom of the handle, and I’d like to see if the same prefer tools with handles that are not too long. They give
would happen over time to a B & B trowel. Admittedly, me much less opportunity to knock pots off of shelves.
I use trowels for purposes they shouldn’t be used for, To sum up, B & B garden tools have become the
such as prying a rock out of a growing bed. Here in New tools of choice in my greenhouse. They are solidly made
England we have a lot of rocks in growing beds, so you of stainless steel and beech wood, intelligently designed,
can’t blame me for wanting a trowel that can stand up and easy to hold and use. They also look great hanging on
to them. the potting shed wall. After digging into the garden with
Most B & B garden tools can also be obtained with them over the last 10 years or so, they may be a little dirty,
what is called a mid-length handle – 18 inches overall but they have no signs of rust or crevice corrosion. Maybe
– which is designed to make it easier to gain greater that’s partly because I use them so often, but I also think
leverage if needed. Now if they just made a mid-length it speaks to the quality of Burgon & Ball products.

Free Greenhouse Tools
We have been given three free Burgon and Ball greenhouse tools. These wonderful tools were
given to us by Burgon and Ball USA (www.burgonandballusa.com). They will be sent to the HGA
member who brings in the most new members over the next two months. If you want to receive
these tools all you need do, is go to your greenhouse owning friends and persuade them to sign
up for at least one year.
If they need to see an issue, let me know and I will send them a password protected PDF of the
latest issue. The deadline will be August 30th, so you have just over two months if you want to win
these very special tools. (See pictures on the opposite page.) Just send in a list of names to Dick
Schreiber, the HGA Membership Director.. The list with the most paid up names will be sent the
tools shown below.
Roger Marshall

Frost Protek Plant CoverS
You may have used a row cover to protect your plants or wrapped them in a blanket
when a frost is forecast, leaving your garden looking like something out of Sanford
and Son. Now you can protect your plants against a moderate frost with an easy to
use, slip on cover. The Frost Protek has a drawstring at the bottom to enable you
to pull it snugly around your plants. The cover is permeable but it will also keep
insect pests off your plants while aloowing rain or moisture to penetrate. It also
helps to protect plants against wind and sun and may keep larger pests (deer and
rabbits) off them as well, When not in use the Frost Protek covers can be folded and
netly stowed in your potting shed. The covers are sold in garden centers across
the country and come in
various sizes. Why not
buy one or two now and The Hobby Greenhouse Association does not
have them ready for use endorse or promote products. Our reviews
at any time? are intended only to provide information to our
(www.frostprotek.com) members.


Choosing the Right Greenhouse
By Tom Karasek

A dedicated greenhouse or a growing space in
our home can take a variety of forms, each
with good reasons for that form. I’ll group the
forms together, calling them all just greenhouses. Before
discussing options, let’s look at some basic considerations.
within to above freezing all year. In summer you will provide
ventilation and shade to control overheating. Almost all
plants will need air temperatures above freezing and below
120F to survive. As growth only occurs between about 50F
and 90F, heating the whole greenhouse to any temperature
The purpose of having a hobby greenhouse is to take between 32F and about 50F is a waste of money. And
control of an environment such that the plants that we heating to growing temperatures in the winter can be too
enjoy growing can thrive. The shell which separates the expensive for many hobbyists. A variety of smaller internal
growing environment from the natural world outside is structures or divisions, however, can economically be
composed of glazing, which permits sunlight to reach the heated to growing temperatures.
plants, and a supporting structure to hold the glazing, Before we get into choosing what to grow, let’s look at
protect from wind and bear the weight of a snow load in some other choices in preparing the greenhouse:
northern climates. For the hobbyist, the shell also provides Greenhouse Location The greenhouse will ideally be
a comfortable working environment and presents most located close enough to your home for you to reach it
plants at waist level. easily in bad weather and to minimize costs of running
While almost any plant can be grown in a suitably sized underground water and power. The long dimension, the
greenhouse, there are tradeoffs of size and temperatures twelve foot wall in our example, should run east to west,
that are largely based on cost of greenhouse operation. So, if possible, to have the sun’s path provide the most light
it is generally a good idea to first decide what space you possible. The trapped solar energy will be your primary
will have and what internal conditions you are willing source of warmth, even on cloudy winter days. Internal
to provide. Your time and dedication are factors too, as temperatures in the growing range are common in winter,
no plant can be left alone for extended periods without so a heater won’t even come on during many days and
any care. Plants which survive outside in your climate even infrequently at night due to stored heat. Plants can,
will need water, at a minimum, in your greenhouse and without harm, grow when temperatures are suitable, go
probably need some protection from temperature swings dormant when too cool and resume growth the next day.
and likely some protection from insects too. Kit or home made? Most greenhouse kits can be assembled
So, say you will build or buy the typical first greenhouse in a weekend by one person with a few minutes of help
that is free-standing away from your home, is about eight by another person. Prices run from about $3,000 up, plus
feet wide by twelve feet long and you will heat the air site preparation, utilities and ventilation. Greenhouse


supplier catalogs or web sites will help you decide. A person four-faucet manifold will prove handy. Power will be
reasonably handy with a saw, hammer and shovel can build needed for lighting, especially supplemental lights for
a greenhouse from lumber, maybe a little concrete and the your plants as plants appreciate 15-18 hours of light a
glazing material for about $400 up, with “up” depending day and that exceeds day length in some months. And,
on size and glazing. of course, power will be required for electrical resistance
Glazing A single layer of transparent plastic sheeting, or forced air heating. A back-up electric heater or two set
fiberglass or window glass will pass light and trap some heat to a lower temperature are inexpensive and use no power
but will prove expensive to heat due to lack of insulation. unless your primary heat fails. If you want to grow with
Two layers of UV protected plastic sheeting held a few hydroponics, power will be required for any pumps. A
inches apart by a small 24/7 squirrel cage fan or two panes couple of small 24/7 wall mounted fans to circulate the
of glass separated by a sealed air gap will retain heat far air helps with disease and whitefly issues. So, in total,
better. Fiberglass will
eventually yellow and
block too much light. For
each 4 by 8 foot of glazing,
expect to pay about $10 for
two layers of plastic and
about $80 for double pain
glass or the more popular
twin-wall polycarbonate.
The plastic sheeting will
become brittle and fail in
3-5 years but is so much
less expensive that many
commercial growers select
that option. Greenhouse
surfaces which see little or
no direct sunlight can be of
plywood painted white on
the inside for protection and
to reflect light.
Free-standing or attached to
a home Your local building
codes will probably permit
a starter greenhouse
built without complying
with residential building
codes while an attached
greenhouse addition may
not be exempt, so check
with your county building
department. An attached
greenhouse to be accessed
Above left: This 12’ x 16’ greenhouse has tempered safety glass walls with insulated twin wall
from the home should have
roof. It is pictured with automatic fan ventilation system, door drop, cresting, and foundation wall
a door to isolate for heating
and is available from Charley’s Greenhouse
and to limit spread of insects.
Design features You will
Above: A brand new Hartley’s greenhouse ready for plants and people..
need ventilation to exhaust
excess heat. A simple flap near the roof or an attic ventilation plan on at least one twenty amp, ground fault protected
fan, either with a matching size inlet down low, will work. circuit.
A simple door for a homemade greenhouse can be a storm Optional features Dedicated potting up and propagation
door, which come with frame, a sliding glass/screen panel areas and a small sink in the greenhouse are nice but not
and even a knob with lock. Benches to support plants at the optimum use of space in a small greenhouse. A tall
convenient levels can be made of about anything sturdy interior will allow hanging baskets without detracting
but I like the white coated metal shelving made for closets from bench space. Storage space for chemicals, soils and
because it lets light and water through and lasts a long tools are handy but further decrease growing space. A
time. Flooring options include gravel, concrete and brick comfortable chair and reading light make the greenhouse
but I like a good grade of landscape fabric right over the a pleasant retreat. Architectural features and trim can
soil. Plumbed water is almost a necessity and a two- or blend your greenhouse into your landscape.


Propagating PlantS
By Roger Marshall

I
f you go to a nursery, you’ll see a huge
selection of plants with rows of identical Sowing Seeds
plants of one kind or another. Often, these Sowing seeds is a propagation method that we
are all familiar with. We simply cover the seeds
plants were propagated from parent ones. You,
with soil in a pot or growing bed and wait to
too, can propagate plants to increase your stock see what comes up. But if you are gathering
of favorites or to economically obtain enough your own seeds from parent plants and have no
plants to make a hedge or border. package instructions to follow, there are some
For some plants, propagation from cuttings is things you need to know. One is that the seeds
extremely easy. For example, if I want to obtain of some plants, such as iris, aster, and lavender,
additional jade plants, I simply take a small twig require stratification. That is, they need to be
(preferably with some tiny roots) from the very put in a cold environment for six or eight weeks
large jade plant I have, push the twig into the and then in a warm spot, sometimes several
ground, and let it grow. Propagating a Christmas times, before they will germinate. Another is
cactus is equally simple. Just break a small that self collected seeds need to be collected just
“leaf” segment (actually a piece of stem) off the at the right time. Too early, and the seeds may
mother plant at the point where it connects to the not be ripe. Too late, and the seeds may have
segment below it and plant it in potting soil. If already distributed themselves. Yet another is
you keep the cutting moist, it will usually sprout that seeds may not come true to the parent. For
roots and grow into an independent plant. Many example, if corn is cross-pollinated, you may
other succulents can be easily propagated in this have a completely different type of corn come
way, although for other plants propagation from up. If you collect seeds from hybrid plants, you
cuttings can be much more difficult. may also see a completely different plant to the
Of course, propagation from cuttings is not the parent. Occasionally, these different plants end
only approach to obtaining new plants from old up being in demand from seed merchants and
ones. Essentially, there are three major methods the lucky owner can make a lot of money, but
of propagating plants: taking cuttings, dividing more often the seeds resemble one of the hybrid
the roots, and sowing the parent plant’s seeds. plant’s parent.
Part of the secret of successful plant propagation Some seeds need complete darkness to
is knowing which of these methods is easiest for germinate, while others will not germinate
the particular plant in question and what, if any, without lots of light. Examples are the seeds of
special techniques should be used to increase Primula and Impatiens, which need 15 to 20
your chances of obtaining healthy offspring. hours of light a day to germinate. To get them to

Begin propagating with easy plants such as these geraniums
and varigated pelargoniums above. When propagating woody
break dormancy, sprinkle them on top of potting shrubs such as the hydrangea below, take fresh green cuttings
soil and keep them moist under a grow light or
fluorescent shop light until they show signs of from the growing tips to Propagate and dip them in hormone
sprouting. powder before pushing them into the soil.

Taking Cuttings
Timing is something many gardeners don’t
think about when taking cuttings from plants,
but properly timing this method of propagation
can lower your risk of failure. For some plants
cuttings are best taken in spring when the green
shoots are young and vigorous, but for many
plants, cuttings are best taken in August or
September before the new green sprouts have
hardened off. The later in the year that you take
cuttings, the more difficult it usually is to get the
cuttings to grow.
There are three methods of taking cuttings.
You can take cuttings from the stem tips, you
can slice off a side shoot (called a basal cutting),
or you can take a heel cutting by pulling a small
branch off the main stem. Different plants prefer
different cutting methods.
To take tip cuttings, simply cut off the tips of
stems, taking two or three leaves, dip the cut end
in rooting hormone, and plant it in well-drained
soil. For good drainage, I mix equal parts of
potting soil and sand when planting tip cuttings
from flowers such as fuchsias, geraniums, and
pelargoniums. This propagation method works
well in mid to late summer, giving you strong, Another tip when propagating cuttings is to
young plants for next season. pare the cutting down to include only one or
When planting any type of cutting, it is two leaves. That way, not too much water is lost
essential to keep the potting soil moist. If you through transpiration. On large-leafed plants
let the soil dry out, the cutting will probably some growers cut the leaf in half to reduce the
not survive. Professional growers mist cuttings area available for transpiration.
regularly to ensure that they stay moist. But don’t Plants such as rhododendron and privet can be
let the soil or the plant become too wet, or it will propagated by rooting a low-growing branch. In
probably get moldy and cause the cutting to die. (continued on page 19)


Mini-Survey

W
e want to get a handle on what you would like to see in your magazine. In order to give
you the content you really want, we have put together a mini-survey of this issue and
would like to get your comments on it.
If you could answer the questions below It would help us in formulating what to put in future
issues. Please circle the number after each question with 1 meaning I hate it, 3 meaning I don’t
care one way or another, and 5 meaning I love it.

I hate it Neutral I love it
1. Front Cover: Do you like the full color front cover? 1 2 3 4 5
2. Board of Directors page 1 2 3 4 5
3. Editor’s Note 1 2 3 4 5
4. Table of contents page 1 2 3 4 5
5. Masthead and Write for Us 1 2 3 4 5
6. Your Questions Answered (formerly Cyber Connections) 1 2 3 4 5
7. Greenhouse Review 1 2 3 4 5
8. The Tool Shed 1 2 3 4 5
9. From The Planter 1 2 3 4 5
10. The HGA Book Shop 1 2 3 4 5
11. Discounts 1 2 3 4 5
12. Book Review 1 2 3 4 5
13. The Back Door 1 2 3 4 5
14. Classifieds 1 2 3 4 5
15. Organizations 1 2 3 4 5
16. Round Robins 1 2 3 4 5
17. Back Cover 1 2 3 4 5

Would you like to see more on the following subjects:
18. Growing and Propogating plants 1 2 3 4 5
19. Growing tropicals 1 2 3 4 5
20. Growing orchids 1 2 3 4 5
21. Growing vegetables in Your Greenhouse 1 2 3 4 5
22. Growing for Market 1 2 3 4 5
23. Growing Flowers 1 2 3 4 5
24. Greenhouse methods: hydroponics and aquaponics, 1 2 3 4 5
25. Greenhouse construction and materials, painting 1 2 3 4 5
26. Greenhouse design: foundation, glazing 1 2 3 4 5
27. Greenhouse updates: adding water, electricity, heating 1 2 3 4 5
28. Reducing heating costs: water and rock storage 1 2 3 4 5

Advertising
29. Should we have more advertising to help defray printing costs 1 2 3 4 5
30. Do you use the advertisers in the magazine 1 2 3 4 5
31. Do you read the advertisements 1 2 3 4 5
32. Do you get good inforamtoin from the advertisements 1 2 3 4 5

If you have suggestions for other articles you would like to see, write them here ________________________________
__________________________________________________________________________________________________________

If you have other comments on what you think we should be doing to help you use your greenhouse better, write
them here ________________________________________________________________________________________________
__________________________________________________________________________________________________________
(Add more on another piece of paper if desired)
You can either email your response to editorhobbyGreenhouse@gmail.com or copy this page and snail mail it to
Roger Marshall, 44 Ft. Wetherill Rd., Jamestown, RI 02835 Thank you for your help. The results will be printed in
the winter issue.


(continued from page 17)
For some plants you may prefer to take smaller
cuttings off the roots. This method is most often
spring cut a low branch on a slant about a quarter used for plants that have a large root system, such
of the way through and push the cut portion into as chrysanthemums, irises, certain lilies, and
the ground. Wedge it so that it stays under the bee balm (Monardia). To make chrysanthemum
soil, or put a brick on the branch to hold it down. root cuttings, for example, dig up some roots,
It doesn’t take long to get a new plant started. cut them from the main plant, and replant these
Once the plant has sufficient roots to grow well cuttings into pots. You can cut a single root only
on its own, cut the remaining connection to the an inch or two long, and eventually it will grow
parent. into a large plant.Dahlia division is done slightly
differently. These plants develop large tubers
Dividing Roots and Tubers that should be stored for the winter in a frost-
Root division is another method of propagation free location after you dig them in the fall. Then,
that works well for large clumps of rhubarb, in spring, simply divide the tubers so that each
daisies, hostas, and many other plants. For clump of one or two has at least one eye that
example, if your hostas have formed a ring and will form a new stem. Following this procedure
the middle has died out, it is time to divide them. you will double or triple your stock of dahlias
Simply dig up the entire hosta plant and divide each year.
it into sections. Replant each section, and it will Propagating, then, is not too difficult. With
grow into another clump. a little knowhow and effort, you can greatly
If a plant has deep roots, such as rhubarb or increase your number of plants without spending
horseradish, dig out the entire carrot-shaped a lot of money. Practice first on easy-to-propagate
root and divide it into two or three parts before plants before moving on to more temperamental
replanting each section. ones. Before you know it, you will have enough
This is best done in late fall or in the middle plants to fill many pots and garden beds. In fact,
of winter when the plant is entering dormancy your biggest problem may be figuring out what
or is completely dormant. to do with all of them.

Proofing Seeds
You can keep seeds from year to year in a cool place, but gradually they may lose their viability. Proof
old seeds by starting ten or twenty in damp paper towels. Put the seeds between two damp towels
and put them in a plastic zip top bag. Set the bag in a warm place to germinate where temperatures
are about 70 degrees. After four or five days remove the seeds from the bag and count the number
of seeds that have germinated. If half your seeds have germinated, you have a 50% germination
rate. When you plant the remainder of your seeds, double your normal seeding rate to account for
the lack of germination.

GREENHOUSES
● Sturdy Aluminum Frame
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charleysgreenhouse.com

Teaching Young
Greenhouse Gardeners
By Cindy French-Curtis

(This is the second article on young greenhouse gardeners. The first was Growing Greenhouse Gardeners published in
Spring 2011)

T
here are many ways in which to promote were so easy to breed differences. He studied
a lifelong love of gardening and a curiosity and recorded his discoveries about recessive and
about plants to the young ones in your dominant genes. Wouldn’t it be fun to study this
family. You will be able to share many cultural, and then for older children this discussion could
historical, and scientific facts with your children turn your greenhouse into a laboratory!
and grandchildren. So let’s get started with some Another way to discover unique plants you
fun and interesting examples. In the paragraphs might want to try in your greenhouse or garden
below I will share some fascinating things about is when traveling. When traveling this fall my
plants and a way to forge an invaluable lifetime husband, our granddaughter, Emily and myself
bond with the children you know. were returning from antelope hunting in the
Did you know that the first greenhouses were south-eastern part of Colorado, when we made
constructed by the Romans so their Emperor a discovery. On the way back home we decided
Tiberius could have cucumbers out of season? to stop at a roadside farmer’s market. There we
They were originally constructed with mica discovered Anasazi beans. These beans were
instead of glass. With this tidbit of history cultivated and consumed by Anasazi Indians (in
can promote an entire discussion with your Navajo, Anasazi means “the ancient ones”) in
child or grandchild. Have they yet studied the the Mesa Verde area of Colorado. It is estimated
Romans? What do they know about the Romans? that these beans have been in existence for 1500
(Gladiators and statues) Maybe you can find years. They are a spotted red and white dry bean.
cucumber seeds from Italy! I teased my horse-loving granddaughter they
As a child, I can remember learning about were the Appaloosa of beans! We talked about
genetics in Science class from the colored the fascinating National Park in the southwest
photographs of sweet pea plants. I think I was corner of Colorado where visitors can see how
about in 4th grade, and enthralled by the way these cliff dwellers lived and actually visit the
heredity influenced color. Friar Gregor Mendel
did genetic research with peas because they cliff dwellings.


To continue the educational
experience of the Anasazi beans,
when I traveled to Oregon to
visit my grandchildren, Alex,
Christian, Alaina and Jackson,
I brought some of the beans.
My son started the seeds on
a wet paper towel in a plastic
bag. We were all surprised how
easily and fast the seeds grew.
I have since started some and
they seem to grow about a ½
inch a day. They are hardy as
well, our cat, Nigel, ate the tops
off and they came right back!
A few days ago, I read online
that beans are the second
most popular plant planted
by children. How can you go
wrong with these historically
interesting beans taking a spot
in your greenhouse?
I have always loved violets. Opposite page: Christian, Alex and Alaina French play in the garden.
The color, the fragrance, and Above: Mom, Is this hole big enough for that lettuce plant? We watered
their simplicity make them a it in well as you suggested.
favorite. With children there
are always the squabbles. The unfairness, the visiting one of my Dad’s friend’s house and there
wrongs in life, and being in the greenhouse with in the front room was a lit aquarium filled with
your hands busy in the warm earth it’s easy to talk large healthy snapping venus fly traps. My
about spiritual matters; to answer questions, to brother and I would endure hours of boring adult
illustrate your point of view and to show the true conversations just to sit in the front room and
relationship between plants and life. One day feed or tickle this plant. This is the plant to
the opportunity of forgiveness came up with an amuse and impress even the most reluctant child
older family member. And Mark Twain’s quote, and win them over to gardening.
seemed perfect. “Forgiveness is the fragrance I hope these ideas will inspire you and
of the violet as it is crushed beneath the sole the young ones in your family to make your
of a boot.” There are all kinds of lessons to be greenhouse and garden a family place. A place
learned in your Greenhouse. where lifelong learning and experimentation,
And finally, if you are experiencing a child thrive together in harmony with the love you
who is truly hard core and just plain doesn’t see have for each other.
the thrill of the greenhouse here is my secret And that your greenhouse becomes a place
weapon – the venus fly trap! What child can where the generations blend and the thrill of a
resist a carnivorous plant? I remember as a child new leaf or plant never dies.

Greenhouse factoids
Greenhouses were originally called glasshouses and had small panes of glass overlapped at the
bottom to prevent heat loss. The overlap was hard to clean and often harbored moss and other
plant life. In the drab winter months of 19th century England glasshouses provided a bright green
splash of color in the winter landscape. Because of the greeness the structures became known as
greenhouses.
A big fad inVictorian England was to grow pineapples, when the structure was know as the
pineapplery. If oranges were grown, then it was often known as the orangery. Similarly, if grapes
were grown it might be known as the vinery.
To keep the large plant pots warm in winter, fresh horse manure and straw was piled around
each plant container. As the manure rotted down it gave off heat which kept the temperature up.
Larger greenhouses used wood fired steam heating systems with pipes around the base below the
greenhouse glass and while it may seem impossible, many greenhouses including England’s most
famous Crystal Palace, burned down when the heating system went awry.


Ficus:the Workhorse of the
Interior Landscape
by Paula Szilard

S
ince the latter part of the nineteenth century, few most overcast winter day in Colorado, a measurement
plants have put in a more frequent appearance in taken at the glass of an east or west window is roughly
our homes and offices than members of the genus 300 f.c. and the measurement on a sunny winter morning
Ficus. There are over 800 species in this genus, which at an east window is over 5000 f.c.)
includes the weeping fig (Ficus benjamina), the banyan Still popular, though losing ground to its more attractive
tree (Ficus benghalensis), the Bo tree (Ficus religiosa), cousins, the rubber plant was a favorite in the Victorian
the rubber tree (Ficus elastica) and the common edible home. Though all ficus species release a type of milky latex
fig (Ficus carica). Members of this genus are often used in when wounded, only the sap of Ficus elastica was ever
our interior landscaping because they can be pruned easily made into natural rubber, only to be replaced eventually
into tree-like shapes and add height and structure to our by a different tree yielding a better product.
indoor plantings. In nature, though, they are sometimes Many ficuses adjust well to the lower levels of humidity
stranglers, starting out as epiphytes on branches or crotches in our homes, especially in winter, when central heating
of trees, but eventually growing so large that they strangle keeps our indoor humidity levels at their lowest. In fact,
their host. they actually transpire considerable amounts of water
Ficuses have remained popular since they were into the air, increasing the humidity levels in our homes.
introduced in Victorian times because they have many This definitely gives them an edge here in Colorado! Most
attributes which make them suitable for indoor culture. tropical ficuses grow well at temperatures of around 65
Though most grow under high light conditions in nature to 80 F, temperatures within the range of most interiors.
(often full sun), they adapt well to the reduced light levels Another advantage is that they don’t usually require
available in our homes. The rubber tree, Ficus elastica, can special care, and even people with a casual approach to
be sustained for long periods on about 250 foot candles, indoor greenery can keep them alive for extended periods.
although about 4,000 to 8000 foot candles are desirable You can still kill them, of course, but you have to be either
for good growth. (As a point of reference, on the dreariest, fairly negligent or overly generous with the watering can.


The ficus most commonly seen in the home is the
graceful, tree-like weeping fig, Ficus benjamina, which
is now available with attractive variegated foliage. In
contrast to most houseplants, these fast growing plants
are desirable because they allow themselves to be pruned
into beautiful tree shapes. Although they would prefer
higher levels of light, plant quality can be maintained at
150-250 foot candles.
Ficus maclellandi, another attractive tree-like ficus
with a triangular canopy, has narrow leaves about 8-10”
long. It was imported from Thailand into Hawaii in the
early 1980’s and later marketed by Kraft Gardens, Inc.
and Aloha Foliage. The Kraft Gardens name was banana-
leaf fig, an unfortunate choice, since the plant isn’t even
remotely suggestive of a banana. Ficus alii, the Aloha
Foliage name, on the other hand seems to have stuck. (Alii
is the Hawaiian word for royalty.) The plant is extremely
fast growing and quite durable. I have to keep pruning
mine back! It’s exceptionally tolerant of dryness and like Fruit of ficus carica ‘Brown Turkey. (Image by Roger Marshall)
the rubber tree, it will survive in reduced light (about 200
foot candles) for extended periods. Naturally, it does better The creeping fig or Ficus pumila performs well at
at higher light levels of 4,000-6,000 foot candles. fairly bright light, but can adapt to lower levels of light.
The fiddle-leaf fig, Ficus lyrata gets the prize for Unfortunately, it needs a relatively humid environment.
interesting, large foliage. As its name implies, the leaves Here in Colorado it’s a good terrarium plant. If the humidity
are shaped like a fiddle and are rough and leathery in in your home is moderately high, you can use it as a
texture. They reportedly get as large as 18” long and a groundcover for large plants. A variegated cultivar with
foot wide, however it’s unlikely that you’ll ever see that leaves edged in white is now available. In tropical areas,
size on a potted plant. For a time in Honolulu, I had this plant often climbs up walls of buildings and stone
several trees planted in my garden, and the leaves never barriers of all types to great heights. The residents of a well-
approached that size. Again, as with the weeping fig and known high-rise condominium building in Honolulu had
ficus alii, an adequate maintenance level of light is about a topping off party when the creeping fig reached the roof!
250 foot candles, though for growth the plant prefers 2,000 There are several worthy new introductions to our ficus
to 6,000 foot candles. Unlike ficus alii, this plant is not repertoire. Ficus aspera, the clown fig, is a fairly recent
at all drought tolerant. You’ll need to water regularly, but arrival on the scene. An attractive plant with striking,
not to excess. variegated green and white foliage, it has a fruit with a


one in September. Since figs are self fertile, fruiting
should not be a problem, even in an indoor setting,
provided it receives enough light. Stay tuned!
Watering ficuses can be tricky, especially if the
plants are large. Allow the soil in large pots to dry
out to a depth of 2-3 inches in between waterings.
Plants in lower light will need much less water. If
you forget and let them get too dry, ficuses will may
suddenly drop all their leaves, but unless they are
totally parched you can bring them around with
regular watering. No fertilizer at this point, please!
Check to see if the branches are still supple. If so,
the plant can be saved. Leaf drop may also occur
as a result of sudden changes of temperature and
overwatering.
The common insect pests found on houseplants
also attack ficuses. Infestations of scale insects, mealy
bugs, and spider mites are not atypical. It’s always a
challenge dealing with these pests, especially when
the plants are large. Horticultural oils mixed with
water are especially effective for dealing with scale
insects, but will also work on the other two pests.
It’s best to do this outside during warm weather, but
never in direct sun to avoid damage to the leaves.
Indoors, the logistics of shielding your walls,
furniture and floor coverings from damage can prove
formidable. You’ll generally need to apply the oil-
water mixture more than once. Ficuses are usually
not damaged by this treatment, unless you get carried
away and add too much of the oil. Remember, your
goal is to suffocate the insects, not the plant! In the
Ficus Bejamina needs bright light to grow well winter months, cotton wipes or Q-tips dipped in
alcohol can control scale and mealy bugs, especially if
reddish cast, resembling a clown’s nose. Hence the name, the infestation is not too severe. Spider mites are averse to
clown fig. It’s prone to spider mites, but its interesting water and are fairly easy to control with vigorous showering.
foliage and fruit still make it worth growing. Low-impact, pyrethrin-containing sprays also kill spider
The blue fig, or ficus petiolaris is another attractive mites and mealy bugs.You get an extra bonus for growing
newcomer. It has heart-shaped, whorled leaves with ficuses in your home! Apart from their attractiveness
pronounced pink veination in good light and a swollen and ability to thrive indoors, they are constantly at work
stem or caudex for water cleaning the air you
storage. Another plant, sold breathe.
Sources:
as the Congo fig (Dorstenia Both the rubber
Appell, S.D., ed. Landscaping Indoors: Bringing the Garden Inside.
elata) is different enough plant and the weeping
New York: Brooklyn Botanical Garden, 2000.
to be placed into another fig excel at removing
Blessington, T.M. and P.C. Collins. Foliage Plants: Prolonging
genus, but still in the fig gaseous formaldehyde, a
Quality — Postproduction, Care & Handling. Batavia, IL: Ball
family (Moraceae). It is an common indoor pollutant
Publishing, 1993.
understatement to say that given off by textiles,
Hamilton, P. The ABC’s of Indoor Ficus Trees. Pacific Grove, CA:
it its eight-inch leaves are adhesives, carpeting,
New Leaf Press, 1991. (DBG Library)
shiny. They look as though paints, particle board,
McColum, S. and T. Risley. Plant Basics: A Manual for the Care of
someone emptied a can of wall coverings and a
Indoor Plants. 1994. (Available from Garden Tapestry, Inc., 719 W.
leaf-shine on them! It also host of other products
McGraw, Seattle, WA 98119, (206) 213-0162) $9.50.
has an unusual flat fruit, commonly used in the
Martin, T. Once upon a Windowsill: A History of Indoor Plants.
occasionally producing home.
Portland, OR: Timber Press, 1988. (DBG Library) Wolverton, B.C.
viable seeds. Additionally, the
How to Grow Fresh Air. New York: Penguin Books, 1996.
A new dwarf edible weeping fig also removes
black fig, Ficus carica the solvents xylene and
‘Petite Negra’ can grow from 5 to 8 feet when planted out toluene, as well as ammonia. Overall though, the rubber
in milder climates. Container grown here in Colorado in an plant and ficus alii get somewhat higher marks for
indoor/outdoor setting, it should remain much smaller. It’s removing more pollutants. So, why not green up your
supposed to produce two crops a season, one in late July and home and reap the benefits?


T
Garden Planner App for Your iPad or iPhone his garden planner app is from Mother
Earth News and allows the user to plan
his or her garden. You begin by drawing
out your garden and adding crops. As you add
your crops the app automatically sizes plants
and tells you how many plants you can put
in the space. It also uses the zip code and
weather stations for your area to calculate
recommended planting and even harvest times.
You can also browse seed catalogs, visit major
garden suppliers, and update your present
Garden Planner app, or change the garden as
the season progresses. However, the online
reviews appear to be about half and half in
favor and against. Many reviews say the app
is buggy and the manufacturer has updated
the program. Whether the latest version is less
buggy, we shall have to see.

Hobby Greenhouse
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Barbara W. Wich, HGA Historian
55780 Timber Lane

Easy-Care Bromeliads Elkhart, IN 46514-9456

by Ann Mann
Reprinted from Hobby Greenhouse Sept/Oct 1983

I
f you haven't tried raising bromeliads in your hobby available at very little cost; and the hobbyist need not worry
greenhouse, you're missing the colorful addition of about specialized care for them — most are easy to care
a family of exotic epiphytes that will not only add for. Here's a list of bromeliads the hobby grower will find
brightness, but will give you the bonuses of fragrance and rewarding, easy to care for, and that take up no more space
elegant design. Plus easy care, fast propagation, and little than you need for an African violet in a medium-sized pot.
expense! Try these if you're short of space:
Bromeliads are a family of epiphytes almost totally Acanthostachys strobilacea. This bromeliad has cascading
indigenous to the New World. They have come late to thin whip-like leaves emerging from a stoloniferous trunk.
the greenhouse scene and home culture, perhaps because Leaves are bronzy green and attain 30" in length, but no
they suffer from “bad press” in the myths that have been more than 1/3" wide. It makes an elegant hanging basket,
erroneously bandied about them. Let me explode the “bad especially when in flower — its long-lasting inflorescence
bromeliad” myths: resembles a tiny pineapple. Stiff bracts are vivid orange
One myth is that they are parasites and kill their host and its flowers are yellow. Give it strong light (up high);
plants. Not true. What is true is that many of them cling protect from temperatures below 40; water it weekly; and
to trees for support, but they take no nourishment from feed with balanced fertilizer monthly. Plant in a porous
the host tree itself. well-drained orchid compost.
Another myth is that they attract and cause to breed The Aechmeas are a diversified genus with many of
mosquitoes, frogs, snails, snakes/roaches, even scorpions. the large spiny bromeliads as well as the medium-sized
Not really. What is true is that water collects in the “urn” and small plants; generally, they want bright light, feeding
or cup in the center of many of the bromeliads that form with balanced fertilizer every ten days; weekly watering;
rosettes. Mosquito larvae will of course collect in the cut, and temperatures above 40 deg. For a potting medium, give
but frogs are attracted to the water-filled cup and quickly them a porous well-drained compost. For plaquing, I use
take care of the mosquitoes. In a controlled greenhouse fiber plaques and balls or drift-wood.
environment, this should be no problem. Aechmea biumenavii is a small semi-tubular plant with
Another myth is that they are hard to grow and flower; firm smooth purple-tipped green leaves. The plant seldom
this is not true. In fact, they grow fast and propagate almost exceeds 12" in height. The rose-colored flower stem rises
as fast with few exceptions. As for flowering, if you give above the foliage and bears a panicle of yellow flowers
them what they want (and these are simple desires) you’ll surrounded by pink bracts. It makes a fine pot plant.
get an abundance of brightly-colored bracts, topped off by Aechmea mertensi is variable. It's a small plant with bright
colorful, sometimes fragrant, flowers, which in turn are green leaves densely overlaid with white-silver scales in a
often followed by waxy berries of varying colors. semi-tubular rosette. Leaves are edged with brown spines,
The next myth you often hear is that they take up alot of not of the lethal variety. Flower stalks are bright coral red
space, which is true of some, not true of most. Many are no with yellow petals. White berries follow, then one by one
bigger than a gloxinia; even more are charming miniatures. turn blue, while the bracts retain their vivid red color.
The next tale you hear about bromeliads is that they Aechmea miniata v. discolor is highly desirable as a space-
are vicious “attack” plants with lethal spines just waiting saver. Leaves are 12" long, glossy green on top, waxy maroon
to embed themselves in your tender flesh. True, some underneath. Its inflorescence is an erect panicle of pretty
have wicked spines that can put the bite on an exposed bright blue flowers; berries turn red and last many months.
arm, finger, or leg of the unwary gardener. Most of these It makes a fine pot plant.
are “biggies” however, and the hobbyist might do better Areococcus flagellifolius is another desirable species. This
to eschew these and specialize in smaller ones with less elegant plant has whip-like bronze leaves, about 18" long,
thorny exteriors. Many have no spines at all. The ones I rising from a slender oval pseudobulb. It produces a thin
consider energy-space savers are such plants. These are red flower stem bearing many rose flowers, followed by
small, colorful, and make ideal hanging baskets or plaques. blue-black berries. Plant in a hanging basket, giving the
They add color and fragrance and a fanciful touch to your same conditions as Aechmeas.
greenhouse. Cryptanthus were dubbed “earth stars” by Mulford
If you're short of space (who isn't) consider the small- Foster (the botanist credited with discovering many of our
growing bomeliads that do best mounted on fiber plaques cultivated bromeliads). They like filtered light, but their
or balls; or in small hanging baskets with stolons cascading other requirements are the same as for Aechmeas.
from the sides. There are hundreds of such bromeliads Cryptanthus pseudoscaposus is a rosette-shaped plant,


with narrow green 7" long leaves, glossy above, covered branched. Flower stem and bracts are red, the flower purple.
with brown scales underneath. This charming plant This one is native to Texas and makes a fine mounted plant
produces stolons that cascade charm-ingly from a hanging on a small piece of driftwood or fiber plaque.
basket. Tillandsia brachycaulos quickly covers a slab of fiber or
Neoregellas form a genus of brilliantly colorful mount; it forms tightly massed rosettes of channeled and
bromeliads with almost non-existent spines. They generally recurved bronze leaves. The flowers are lilac-colored, and
form a rosette from which the flowers emerge shyly, seldom at flowering the entire plant turns crimson, a striking sight.
rising above the center. They have the desirable habit of Tillandsia butzii is an elegant small plant. Tapering leaves
"flushing" with color from the center outwards at flowering rise from a bulbous base and form twisting tendrils. The
time. The whole plant takes on a flush of carmine, rose, leaves are bronze-green with purple spots. A slender scape
shocking pink, or even violet, depending on the species. bears one spike of flower with rose bracts and purple
They are stunning when in color, which lasts for months. flowers. It shows off best on a piece of driftwood.
Such “neos" are generally big plants. The tiny stoloniferous Tillandsia cyanea. This one does well in a pot. It's compact,
ones are wonderful greenhouse subjects and these are with thin grasslike bronze leaves forming arosette. Its
included in my list. All neoregellas like strong light; they stunning inflorescence is fan-shaped, 4" long, brilliant
want warmth and watering as do the Aechmeas, but where shocking pink. The effect produced by the large deep indigo
the Aechmeas are heavy feeders, it's not wise to feed neos if flowers that appear singly or inpairs, in succession along
you want them to color up. They grow beautifully — even the fan is breathtaking.
flower — but the color won't be there. A general rule of Tillandsia lonantha ("The Blushing Bride" tillandsia) is
thumb with neos is to fertilize very little and very seldom. best mounted on a ball, as it quickly covers a mount and
Neo. ampullacea is a tiny, 1" diameter tubular plant with is a beautiful sight when in flower. The plants are tufted
5" shiny-green-flecked-with-maroon leaves. silvery rosettes, about 2" high, Leaves turn vivid crimson
The flowers hide deep inside the tube and are white when the plant starts tc flower. The flowers themselves are
with blue margins. This stolonifer-rous plant quickly makes bright purple.
a fine specimen on plaque or in a small hanging basket. Lastly, Tillandsia usneoldes, the legendary "Spanish
Neo. pauciflora is another tubular stoloniferous plant Moss" of Old South fame. This plant forms tendrils of
with 5" waxy olive-green leaves, densely overlaid with silvery gray green leaves that hang from branches of trees
black-purple spots on the upper side, banded with gray in the south. Its small inconspicuous white flowers are
underneath. The white flowers bloom deep inside the tube.
fragrant at night.
It also makes a wonderful ball or plaque mount and looks
Try a “Baker's Dozen” of these charming small
well in a hanging basket.
bromeliads — they'll brighten your greenhouse, and when
Neo. Fireball. The parentage of this hybrid is not recorded.
you bring them into your living area, create stunning floral
It is a charming stoloniferous miniature with bright bronze
arrangement with no need for other foliage as filler. They're
shiny leaves that turn bright red when grown in strong
exotic, unusual, and surprisingly easy in culture.
light. This makes a handsome plaque or hanging basket
specimen. Pineapples are one of the tastiest bromeliads. (image by
The Orthophytums are small, mostly stoloniferous Tom Eckert)
plants, that like to be on the dry side, water less frequently
than other bromeliads. It too likes strong light, warmth,
and good air movement. Be sparing of fertilizer on them,
however, as they will stay green and not color up if fed
too well.
Orthophytum navioldes is a highly desirable species, with
arching shiny bronze leaves that rise from a dense rosette
in the center. The leaves have small (sharp but not mean)
spines. This plant turns brilliant red if grown in strong light.
White flowers cluster in the center. It is elegant!
Tillandslas belong in any bromeliad collection. These
are North American bromeliads, comprising the majority
of all bromeliads native to this continent. It's a big family,
and most are tree-dwellers; it's also the most adaptable of
the bromeliads: many species grow at sea level or in the
mountains; in dense shade or full sun; they can withstand
drought and flood; windy arid conditions and the moist
atmosphere of the rain forest. A wonderful family of elegant
and easily grown bromeliads. Give them the same care you
do the others on this list.
Tillandsia balbislana has a bulbous base which produces
many twisted leaves that reach about 15" in length when
grown in strong light. The flower spike is 8" long, and is


Summer 2012 2 hobby greenhouse

Summer 2012 2 hobby greenhouse

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Summer 2012 2 hobby greenhouse