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Rules for Handling Objects
# 1
AVOID wearing
anything that might
damage objects by
scratching or
snagging the surface,
such as rings and
other jewelry,
watches, belt buckles,
name tags and
service badges.
Rules for Handling Objects
# 2
NEVER smoke, eat or
drink around the
objects. Hot coffee
mugs can mar
surfaces and food
particles attract pests.
Rules for Handling Objects
# 3
Handle collection
objects ONLY when
necessary.
Museum educators will
use replicas in their
demonstrations.
Rules for Handling Objects
# 4
LOOK carefully at an
object before lifting.
Ask yourself:
 Is the surface fragile?
 Are there any clues to
make me think it is
damaged?
 Where am I going to
put the object?
Rules for Handling Objects
# 5
Use BOTH HANDS to
lift an object.
Rules for Handling Objects
# 6
If an object is in a
container, lift ONLY
the container
Rules for Handling Objects
# 7
WEAR GLOVES when
lifting objects.
Rules for Handling Objects
#8
Wash your hands
before putting on
cotton gloves. Oils
and acids can soak
through gloves.
Rules for Handling Objects
And Most important…
#9
If you break something,
tell the Curator.
Handling and Moving
Furniture
General Guidelines
Moving and Handling Furniture
Before picking up a piece of furniture,
determine how it is put together and if any
of its parts are removable or detachable.
These are removed and packed separately.
Make sure you know where the furniture is
it’s the strongest generally along a major
element- and try to carry from these points.
Moving and Handling Furniture
Never hurry when moving furniture.
Scratches, dents and gouges from
bumps against hand trucks, doorways,
and other furniture are always more
likely in haste, and without sufficient
manpower present.
Moving and Handling Furniture
Examine the room and the route whereby the
furniture will be moved. Look around so you
know where everything is and look for
potential trouble. Light fixture that are too
low, or glass tops that are also easily damaged
when bumped. Clear the way by moving these
fragile or obstructive items.
Be sure to pad the furniture to reduce risk to it
and the surrounding area.
Moving and Handling Furniture
Make sure you have a firm grip on the piece
with both hands. Do NOT wear cotton
gloves. Furniture is usually highly polished
and slick. It is essential that hands not slip
from the piece while its being moved. Latex
surgical gloves work well as well as clean,
dry, bare hands.
Moving and Handling Furniture
Never slide or drag furniture along the floor.
The vibration can loosen or break joints, chip
feet, break legs, etc., to say nothing of what
dragging does to the carpeting or finish on the
floor. Whenever possible, use trolley or dollies
for transporting heavy pieces.
Moving and Handling Furniture
Handling valuable furniture requires a special attitude: in
general, movement should be carried out at a slower pace.
Remember: If you don’t break it, it doesn’t have to be fixed.
Here are some quick tips for moving furniture properly:
• Just as gymnasts work with “spotters” to catch them when
they misstep, have helpers on hand to guide the movers
away from obstacles.
• Anticipate trouble; think everything through; plan ahead.
• Make sure the route is clear, including loose carpeting that
can hinder dollies or trip up feet.
Packing Materials
The “Good” Materials
Ethafoam
Ethafoam is a strong,
resilient, medium-
density, closed-cell
polyethylene foam which
is acceptable for use in
the preservation of
historic objects. It is
available in white and
black. Sold in planks 1
in., 2 in. and 4 in. thick, it
is an ideal material to use
to cushion and protect
fragile items.
Ethafoam
One advantage of
Ethafoam is that it can
be cut with a shapeable
cutter to properly cradle
odd shaped objects.
Ethafoam
Ethafoam sheeting comes
in rolls with thickness
of 1/8-1/4 inches,
excellent for wrapping
delicate objects and
lining storage shelves.
Tyvek
Tyvek is already used in a
number of conservation
storage methods especially
textiles and papers. This
protective material has high
tensile/tear strength in all
directions because its
constituent fibers are spun-
bonded. The relatively slick
surface is a further barrier
and prevents fragile maps
snagging.
Acid-free tissue
Any thin, semi-translucent
paper. Tissue into a variety
of forms from soft or glazed
and paper is lightweight and
weighs less than 25 grams
per square meter. Tissue
papers are made any type of
paper pulp buffered or
unbuffered.
Buffered and acid-free tissue
papers are used in archival
storage.
Twill tape
 A strong, twill-woven
fabric tape used for
edging fabrics and tying
boxes. Cotton twill tape
is strong and inert. It
has also been used for
labeling objects and
specimens.
Blue Board
 An acid and lignin free
cardboard. Archival
corrugated board is
typically buffered with
3% calcium carbonate.
It maintains a pH of 7.5-
9.5.
 Comes in pre-made
boxes or sheets to create
custom sizes
Gloves
Four we can use
Lint-free cotton gloves
 Lint-free cotton
gloves are for the
handling and
protection of archival
material. They are
especially handy
when working with
delicate material,
including
photographic works.
Microdot gloves
 MicroDot gloves are
made of cotton and
feature tiny PVC dots
across the surface of
the palm, which
provides a firmer grip
on objects in transit.
They are not
suggested for use
with metal objects.
Latex surgical gloves
 latex gloves also have a
slightly tacky texture
which makes gripping
instruments and objects
easier. The only downside
to latex exam gloves is that
they are made from natural
latex rubber, a protein-
based compound known to
cause allergic reactions and
irritations in some people.
Nitril gloves
 Nitril gloves offer a
wide range of solvent
resistance, but are not
recommended for use
with ketones.
 These are for those
allergic to latex.
Packing Materials
The “bad” materials
Acidic cardboard
 Wood-pulp paper board,
corrugated or plain.
May be bleached white.
Produces organic acids
as lignin as it
deteriorates. Will stain
and weaken organic
objects and corrode
metals.
Nylon
 Although highly
resistant to solvents,
nylon deteriorates in the
presence of oxygen and
light. Ammonia is
created as it
deteriorates.
Polyurethane foam
 Commonly found as
yellow or gray soft
foam, it is used as seat
cushions. The foam
yellows and
disintegrates into a
friable, acidic, sticky
mass that is no longer
able to absorb shocks.
END

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Rules for Handling Objects

  • 1. Rules for Handling Objects # 1 AVOID wearing anything that might damage objects by scratching or snagging the surface, such as rings and other jewelry, watches, belt buckles, name tags and service badges.
  • 2. Rules for Handling Objects # 2 NEVER smoke, eat or drink around the objects. Hot coffee mugs can mar surfaces and food particles attract pests.
  • 3. Rules for Handling Objects # 3 Handle collection objects ONLY when necessary. Museum educators will use replicas in their demonstrations.
  • 4. Rules for Handling Objects # 4 LOOK carefully at an object before lifting. Ask yourself:  Is the surface fragile?  Are there any clues to make me think it is damaged?  Where am I going to put the object?
  • 5. Rules for Handling Objects # 5 Use BOTH HANDS to lift an object.
  • 6. Rules for Handling Objects # 6 If an object is in a container, lift ONLY the container
  • 7. Rules for Handling Objects # 7 WEAR GLOVES when lifting objects.
  • 8. Rules for Handling Objects #8 Wash your hands before putting on cotton gloves. Oils and acids can soak through gloves.
  • 9. Rules for Handling Objects And Most important… #9 If you break something, tell the Curator.
  • 11. Moving and Handling Furniture Before picking up a piece of furniture, determine how it is put together and if any of its parts are removable or detachable. These are removed and packed separately. Make sure you know where the furniture is it’s the strongest generally along a major element- and try to carry from these points.
  • 12. Moving and Handling Furniture Never hurry when moving furniture. Scratches, dents and gouges from bumps against hand trucks, doorways, and other furniture are always more likely in haste, and without sufficient manpower present.
  • 13. Moving and Handling Furniture Examine the room and the route whereby the furniture will be moved. Look around so you know where everything is and look for potential trouble. Light fixture that are too low, or glass tops that are also easily damaged when bumped. Clear the way by moving these fragile or obstructive items. Be sure to pad the furniture to reduce risk to it and the surrounding area.
  • 14. Moving and Handling Furniture Make sure you have a firm grip on the piece with both hands. Do NOT wear cotton gloves. Furniture is usually highly polished and slick. It is essential that hands not slip from the piece while its being moved. Latex surgical gloves work well as well as clean, dry, bare hands.
  • 15. Moving and Handling Furniture Never slide or drag furniture along the floor. The vibration can loosen or break joints, chip feet, break legs, etc., to say nothing of what dragging does to the carpeting or finish on the floor. Whenever possible, use trolley or dollies for transporting heavy pieces.
  • 16. Moving and Handling Furniture Handling valuable furniture requires a special attitude: in general, movement should be carried out at a slower pace. Remember: If you don’t break it, it doesn’t have to be fixed. Here are some quick tips for moving furniture properly: • Just as gymnasts work with “spotters” to catch them when they misstep, have helpers on hand to guide the movers away from obstacles. • Anticipate trouble; think everything through; plan ahead. • Make sure the route is clear, including loose carpeting that can hinder dollies or trip up feet.
  • 18. Ethafoam Ethafoam is a strong, resilient, medium- density, closed-cell polyethylene foam which is acceptable for use in the preservation of historic objects. It is available in white and black. Sold in planks 1 in., 2 in. and 4 in. thick, it is an ideal material to use to cushion and protect fragile items.
  • 19. Ethafoam One advantage of Ethafoam is that it can be cut with a shapeable cutter to properly cradle odd shaped objects.
  • 20. Ethafoam Ethafoam sheeting comes in rolls with thickness of 1/8-1/4 inches, excellent for wrapping delicate objects and lining storage shelves.
  • 21. Tyvek Tyvek is already used in a number of conservation storage methods especially textiles and papers. This protective material has high tensile/tear strength in all directions because its constituent fibers are spun- bonded. The relatively slick surface is a further barrier and prevents fragile maps snagging.
  • 22. Acid-free tissue Any thin, semi-translucent paper. Tissue into a variety of forms from soft or glazed and paper is lightweight and weighs less than 25 grams per square meter. Tissue papers are made any type of paper pulp buffered or unbuffered. Buffered and acid-free tissue papers are used in archival storage.
  • 23. Twill tape  A strong, twill-woven fabric tape used for edging fabrics and tying boxes. Cotton twill tape is strong and inert. It has also been used for labeling objects and specimens.
  • 24. Blue Board  An acid and lignin free cardboard. Archival corrugated board is typically buffered with 3% calcium carbonate. It maintains a pH of 7.5- 9.5.  Comes in pre-made boxes or sheets to create custom sizes
  • 26. Lint-free cotton gloves  Lint-free cotton gloves are for the handling and protection of archival material. They are especially handy when working with delicate material, including photographic works.
  • 27. Microdot gloves  MicroDot gloves are made of cotton and feature tiny PVC dots across the surface of the palm, which provides a firmer grip on objects in transit. They are not suggested for use with metal objects.
  • 28. Latex surgical gloves  latex gloves also have a slightly tacky texture which makes gripping instruments and objects easier. The only downside to latex exam gloves is that they are made from natural latex rubber, a protein- based compound known to cause allergic reactions and irritations in some people.
  • 29. Nitril gloves  Nitril gloves offer a wide range of solvent resistance, but are not recommended for use with ketones.  These are for those allergic to latex.
  • 31. Acidic cardboard  Wood-pulp paper board, corrugated or plain. May be bleached white. Produces organic acids as lignin as it deteriorates. Will stain and weaken organic objects and corrode metals.
  • 32. Nylon  Although highly resistant to solvents, nylon deteriorates in the presence of oxygen and light. Ammonia is created as it deteriorates.
  • 33. Polyurethane foam  Commonly found as yellow or gray soft foam, it is used as seat cushions. The foam yellows and disintegrates into a friable, acidic, sticky mass that is no longer able to absorb shocks. END