18107037 G. Sree Sai lasya - batch 2
18107042 Shaik dilshad - batch 2
18107046 Srilekha sripada - batch 2
18107028 Roshan mandalapu - batch 1
• Kalamkari is the earliest and one of the most complex techniques of fabric printing using
vegetable dyes and minerals.
• Kalamkari or Qalamkari is a type of hand-painted or block-printed cotton textile, produced in
parts of India. The word is derived from the Persian words kalam (pen) and kari
(craftmanship), meaning drawing with a pen.
• Kalamkari was most likely derived from the trade relationships between Persian and Indian
merchants as early as 10th century CE. Portuguese merchants called this kind of fabric
printing “Pintado”. The Dutch called it “Sitz” and the British found it easy to call this textile
printing technique “Chintz”.
• In ancient times, groups of singers, musicians and painters, called chitrakattis, moved village
to village to tell the village dwellers, the great stories of Hindu mythology. They illustrated
their accounts using large bolts of canvas painted on the spot with simple means and dyes
extracted from plants.
• The Mughals who patronized this craft in the Coromandel and Golconda province called the
practitioners of this craft "qualamkars", from which the term "kalamkari" evolved.
• Kalamkari art has been practiced by many families in Andhra Pradesh and over the
generations has constituted their livelihood. Kalamkari had a certain decline, then it was
revived in India and abroad for its craftsmanship.
• It is traditionally hand painted or block printed on cotton fabric with vegetable dyes. The
painted style grew around the Hindu temples and depicted images of deities and scenes
from the Ramayana and Mahabharata (mythological epics).
• The practice of hand painted kalamkari is currently concentrated in a village called Sri
Kalahasti in the state of Andhra Pradesh, India
PEDANA KALAMKARI :-
• Pedana kalamkari also known as
MACHILIPATNAM style of
kalamkari work involve vegetable
dyed block painting of fabric.
• These designs are generally
printed with hand carved blocks
intricate details drawn by hand .
• Pedana is small town just 13km
district of Andhra Pradesh.
• Pedana kalamkari is used for
• Kerchiefs,curtains,Punjabi suits
• Vegetables colours are made
using leaves,flowers,bark of
different trees and minerals.
SRIKALAHASTI KALAMKARI :-
• In srikalahasti style, a pen is used for
drawing and filling colours. Dieties
and scenes taken from Hindu
mythological epics. Ramayana and
Mahabharata are used.
• It is produced in srkalahasti of
chittor district in the Indian state of
• Saris of this particular style are
reowned for its classy and artistic
borders and pallu.
• Original srikalahasti hand printed
saree starts from 10000 inr amd can
range up to 40000 inr depending on
the complexity of work on it.
• Srikalahasti kalamkari is used for
makin dupattas sarees wall painting.
• Cotton and silk fabrics are used in
this type of style.
FABRIC FLOW PROCESS
Dry the fabric
Fabric is dipped and stirred in the alum water
In normal water 3 times washed
RUNNING WATER WASH
In normal water
in normal water
COW DUNG BLEACH
Cow dung+ water+ milk -stir the fabric well
Myrabolum powder + water = 20gms/lt
Black liquid is used for outline mordent (alum liquid) is used for
Boiling the fabric by gradually increasing the heat with the ingredients
alizarin and dye source
TRADITIONAL MOTIF/ PATTERN
• In Machilipatnam style the motifs are essentially printed with
hand- carved blocks,which include flowers,leaves,peacock and
• In srikalahasti style motifs are inspired from hindhu mythology
– Ramayana and Mahabharata and motifs of dieties such as
Loard Krishna,ganesha,lord buddha etc.
POPULAR COLOUR AND FABRIC
• Fabrics used in kalamkari traditionally are cotton because it good absorbancy
and silk. Cotton fabric made in powerloom with certain warp and weft comes
mostly from TN and MH.
• Kalamkari uses vegetables colours made using leaves,flowers,bark of
different trees and minerals.
• Red colour - a kind of trademark for kalamkari is derived from tamarind seed
powder and solution of alum.
• Black dye is made from powdered iron ore.
• Violet colour is made out of natural indigo crystals.
• Yellow from turmeric and harad are used to make yellow tints and shades of
• Alum is used in making natural dyes and also while treating the fabrics. Alum
ensures stability of colour on kalamkari fabrics.
• The cost of block printed pedana kalamkari :-
saree : 500 – 2500 INR
Punjabi suit : 500 – 1500 INR
• The cost of hand painted srikalahasti kalamkari :-
saree : 7000 – 40000 INR
• The cost of wall painting :-
1000 – 13000 INR (depending on the size of the painting)
• Uppada Jamdani Sari is a silk sari style
woven in Uppada of East Godavari district
in the Indian state of Andhra Pradesh. It
was registered as one of the geographical
indication from Andhra Pradesh by
Geographical Indications of GoodsAct,
• Uppada Jamdani saris are known for their
light weight.The name Jamdani in the
Uppada Jamdani Sari is a Persian
terminology, in which Jam means flower
and Dani means Vase text here.
• Jamdani style of weaving is
originated in Bangladesh. In
18th Century, It was brought
to south and in Uppada village
of East Godavari district,
Andhra Pradesh, India Jamdani
style of weaving recreated
with a local resonance. The
Jamdani style weaving was as
old as 300 years.
• Within the Uppada sarees itself, there are many
types like plain Uppada pattu sarees, multi
colour, checks uppada sarees, big borders,
Uppada cotton sarees, and Uppada pattu saree
with pochampally border among a few.Not only
in India, but even the world over, the Uppada
sarees have a magnificent impact on the textile
industry. Even the Victoria Museum showcases
a wonderful collection of Jamdani woven
sarees, among which the Uppada silk sarees are
exhibited. Uppada checks
Multi colour uppada saree
• Jamdani weaving is a labor-intensive,
intricate form of handloom weaving
that requires abundant time and skills.
It is similar to tapestry work.The yarn
is first washed and dipped in the dye
to colour it evenly.
• The yarn is then washed, dried and
starched to give it a polished look
along with a durable colour.The yarn is
then loaded onto the warp and is
ready to be woven. It takes
approximately one week for the
weaver to make four Uppada saris
from the yarn. For more complex
patterns and zari work, it might take
more weavers and about 20 days for
• Mangalagiri Sarees and Fabrics are
produced by performing handicraft weaving
in Mangalagiri, a town in Guntur district of
the Indian state of Andhra Pradesh.
• It was registered as one of the handicraft in
the geographical indication from Andhra
Pradesh by Geographical Indications of
Goods (Registration and Protection) Act,
• Before the sarees came into existence, Mangalgiri was always
known for its pilgrimage importance because of the famous temple
of Lord Panakala Narasimha Swamy that is located in the heart of
• It is said that as per the ancient traditions, the pilgrims had to
purchase a sari from the local weavers after offering obeisance to
the lord, which was another way of giving a livelihood to the local
weavers. Thus grew the popularity of the Mangalgiri sari.
• During the Qutub Shahi Dynasty in 1593, the region had levied
taxes on the handloom sarees.
• Due to this, most of the weavers fled from the town, which dealt a
severe blow to the flourishing handloom industry of the town of
• Mangalgiri cotton is produced by the cotton yarn that is purchased
from the mills. This cotton yarn is then boiled in water and caustic
soda for a couple of hours before it is suitable for dyeing.
• If the yarn is to produce white colored sarees, then it is bleached
before weaving, else for coloring chemical dyes are used. After
dyeing, the yarn is then sun dried before it is all set for the weaving
• Since these sarees only have a zari border and zari on the pallu
without any woven designs on the main body of the saree, therefore
the fabric is woven only on pit looms, which enables the weaver to
exert much more force during the weaving process without any
gaps. This is what distinguishes the Mangalgiri textiles from other
• The fabric is woven only on pit loom, and there are no gaps on the
weave towards the edges of the fabric along with the sole fact that it
is created in Mangalgiri alone.
• Mangalagiri sarees they use nizan designs, which make it more elegant. Few special sarees
has intricate tribal designs that are woven in cotton along with the zari or golden coloured
patterns that occur in small checks.
• The pallu (edge) of the saree is adorned with a striped design , which is a typical tribal
embellishment that is made out of golend embroidery.
mangalagiri cotton saree Mangalagiri silk saree Mangalagiri nizam border saree
• The cost of mangalagiri cotton saree : 500 – 3000 INR
• The cost of mangalagiri cotton zari saree : 3000 - 8000 INR
• The cost of mangalagiri pattu saree : 5000 – 10,000 INR
• The biggest use of Mangalagiri textile may be said to be for garment
material i.e. the salwar- kameez and dupatta sets and their more
contemporary versions the kurtis and parallel trousers.
• Mangalagiri material is also increasingly being used for curtains,
bedcovers and pillowcases.