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Presentation on kalamkari , uppada and mangalgiri

  1. Submitted by 18107037 G. Sree Sai lasya - batch 2 18107042 Shaik dilshad - batch 2 18107046 Srilekha sripada - batch 2 18107028 Roshan mandalapu - batch 1
  2. • Kalamkari is the earliest and one of the most complex techniques of fabric printing using vegetable dyes and minerals. • Kalamkari or Qalamkari is a type of hand-painted or block-printed cotton textile, produced in parts of India. The word is derived from the Persian words kalam (pen) and kari (craftmanship), meaning drawing with a pen. • Kalamkari was most likely derived from the trade relationships between Persian and Indian merchants as early as 10th century CE. Portuguese merchants called this kind of fabric printing “Pintado”. The Dutch called it “Sitz” and the British found it easy to call this textile printing technique “Chintz”. INTRODUCTION
  3. HISTORY • In ancient times, groups of singers, musicians and painters, called chitrakattis, moved village to village to tell the village dwellers, the great stories of Hindu mythology. They illustrated their accounts using large bolts of canvas painted on the spot with simple means and dyes extracted from plants. • The Mughals who patronized this craft in the Coromandel and Golconda province called the practitioners of this craft "qualamkars", from which the term "kalamkari" evolved. • Kalamkari art has been practiced by many families in Andhra Pradesh and over the generations has constituted their livelihood. Kalamkari had a certain decline, then it was revived in India and abroad for its craftsmanship. • It is traditionally hand painted or block printed on cotton fabric with vegetable dyes. The painted style grew around the Hindu temples and depicted images of deities and scenes from the Ramayana and Mahabharata (mythological epics). • The practice of hand painted kalamkari is currently concentrated in a village called Sri Kalahasti in the state of Andhra Pradesh, India
  4. TYPES PEDANA KALAMKARI :- • Pedana kalamkari also known as MACHILIPATNAM style of kalamkari work involve vegetable dyed block painting of fabric. • These designs are generally printed with hand carved blocks intricate details drawn by hand . • Pedana is small town just 13km from Machilipatnam,Krishna district of Andhra Pradesh. • Pedana kalamkari is used for making bedsheets,lungi’s,hand • Kerchiefs,curtains,Punjabi suits and sarees • Vegetables colours are made using leaves,flowers,bark of different trees and minerals.
  5. SRIKALAHASTI KALAMKARI :- • In srikalahasti style, a pen is used for drawing and filling colours. Dieties and scenes taken from Hindu mythological epics. Ramayana and Mahabharata are used. • It is produced in srkalahasti of chittor district in the Indian state of Andhra Pradesh. • Saris of this particular style are reowned for its classy and artistic borders and pallu. • Original srikalahasti hand printed saree starts from 10000 inr amd can range up to 40000 inr depending on the complexity of work on it. • Srikalahasti kalamkari is used for makin dupattas sarees wall painting. • Cotton and silk fabrics are used in this type of style.
  6. FABRIC FLOW PROCESS Dry the fabric FIXATION Fabric is dipped and stirred in the alum water WASHING In normal water 3 times washed RUNNING WATER WASH In normal water WASHING in normal water COW DUNG BLEACH Cow dung+ water+ milk -stir the fabric well MYRABOLUM TREATMENT Myrabolum powder + water = 20gms/lt KALAM KARI Black liquid is used for outline mordent (alum liquid) is used for filling colors COLOR DEVELOPMENT Boiling the fabric by gradually increasing the heat with the ingredients alizarin and dye source
  7. TRADITIONAL MOTIF/ PATTERN • In Machilipatnam style the motifs are essentially printed with hand- carved blocks,which include flowers,leaves,peacock and traditional patterns. • In srikalahasti style motifs are inspired from hindhu mythology – Ramayana and Mahabharata and motifs of dieties such as Loard Krishna,ganesha,lord buddha etc.
  8. POPULAR COLOUR AND FABRIC • Fabrics used in kalamkari traditionally are cotton because it good absorbancy and silk. Cotton fabric made in powerloom with certain warp and weft comes mostly from TN and MH. • Kalamkari uses vegetables colours made using leaves,flowers,bark of different trees and minerals. • Red colour - a kind of trademark for kalamkari is derived from tamarind seed powder and solution of alum. • Black dye is made from powdered iron ore. • Violet colour is made out of natural indigo crystals. • Yellow from turmeric and harad are used to make yellow tints and shades of yellow. • Alum is used in making natural dyes and also while treating the fabrics. Alum ensures stability of colour on kalamkari fabrics.
  9. COST • The cost of block printed pedana kalamkari :- saree : 500 – 2500 INR Punjabi suit : 500 – 1500 INR • The cost of hand painted srikalahasti kalamkari :- saree : 7000 – 40000 INR • The cost of wall painting :- 1000 – 13000 INR (depending on the size of the painting)
  10. USES • Accessories like pendants, hand bags, wall paintings, dupatta, dhoti and jackets are made.
  11. UPPADA
  12. INTRODUCTION • Uppada Jamdani Sari is a silk sari style woven in Uppada of East Godavari district in the Indian state of Andhra Pradesh. It was registered as one of the geographical indication from Andhra Pradesh by Geographical Indications of GoodsAct, 1999. • Uppada Jamdani saris are known for their light weight.The name Jamdani in the Uppada Jamdani Sari is a Persian terminology, in which Jam means flower and Dani means Vase text here.
  13. HISTORY • Jamdani style of weaving is originated in Bangladesh. In 18th Century, It was brought to south and in Uppada village of East Godavari district, Andhra Pradesh, India Jamdani style of weaving recreated with a local resonance.[4] The Jamdani style weaving was as old as 300 years.
  14. TYPES • Within the Uppada sarees itself, there are many types like plain Uppada pattu sarees, multi colour, checks uppada sarees, big borders, Uppada cotton sarees, and Uppada pattu saree with pochampally border among a few.Not only in India, but even the world over, the Uppada sarees have a magnificent impact on the textile industry. Even the Victoria Museum showcases a wonderful collection of Jamdani woven sarees, among which the Uppada silk sarees are exhibited. Uppada checks Saree Multi colour uppada saree Pochampally border
  15. PROCESS • Jamdani weaving is a labor-intensive, intricate form of handloom weaving that requires abundant time and skills. It is similar to tapestry work.The yarn is first washed and dipped in the dye to colour it evenly. • The yarn is then washed, dried and starched to give it a polished look along with a durable colour.The yarn is then loaded onto the warp and is ready to be woven. It takes approximately one week for the weaver to make four Uppada saris from the yarn. For more complex patterns and zari work, it might take more weavers and about 20 days for one sari.
  16. FABRIC • Fine quality silk is used with silver or gold zari. Silver zari Gold zari
  17. MOTIFS • There are no specific motifs used in uppada sarees. General motifs that were used are leaves, flowers, birds, animals, patterns etc.
  18. COST • Cost of uppada sari ranges between 5000-80000 and can go upto 3 lakhs for weeding sari.
  19. USES • Mostly uppada sari is used for special occasions and also used as wedding sari.
  21. INTRODUCTION • Mangalagiri Sarees and Fabrics are produced by performing handicraft weaving in Mangalagiri, a town in Guntur district of the Indian state of Andhra Pradesh. • It was registered as one of the handicraft in the geographical indication from Andhra Pradesh by Geographical Indications of Goods (Registration and Protection) Act, 1999.
  22. HISTORY • Before the sarees came into existence, Mangalgiri was always known for its pilgrimage importance because of the famous temple of Lord Panakala Narasimha Swamy that is located in the heart of the town. • It is said that as per the ancient traditions, the pilgrims had to purchase a sari from the local weavers after offering obeisance to the lord, which was another way of giving a livelihood to the local weavers. Thus grew the popularity of the Mangalgiri sari. • During the Qutub Shahi Dynasty in 1593, the region had levied taxes on the handloom sarees. • Due to this, most of the weavers fled from the town, which dealt a severe blow to the flourishing handloom industry of the town of Mangalgiri.
  23. PROCESS • Mangalgiri cotton is produced by the cotton yarn that is purchased from the mills. This cotton yarn is then boiled in water and caustic soda for a couple of hours before it is suitable for dyeing. • If the yarn is to produce white colored sarees, then it is bleached before weaving, else for coloring chemical dyes are used. After dyeing, the yarn is then sun dried before it is all set for the weaving process. • Since these sarees only have a zari border and zari on the pallu without any woven designs on the main body of the saree, therefore the fabric is woven only on pit looms, which enables the weaver to exert much more force during the weaving process without any gaps. This is what distinguishes the Mangalgiri textiles from other weaves.
  24. FABRIC • The fabric is woven only on pit loom, and there are no gaps on the weave towards the edges of the fabric along with the sole fact that it is created in Mangalgiri alone.
  25. TYPES • Mangalagiri sarees they use nizan designs, which make it more elegant. Few special sarees has intricate tribal designs that are woven in cotton along with the zari or golden coloured patterns that occur in small checks. • The pallu (edge) of the saree is adorned with a striped design , which is a typical tribal embellishment that is made out of golend embroidery. mangalagiri cotton saree Mangalagiri silk saree Mangalagiri nizam border saree
  26. COST • The cost of mangalagiri cotton saree : 500 – 3000 INR • The cost of mangalagiri cotton zari saree : 3000 - 8000 INR • The cost of mangalagiri pattu saree : 5000 – 10,000 INR
  27. USES • The biggest use of Mangalagiri textile may be said to be for garment material i.e. the salwar- kameez and dupatta sets and their more contemporary versions the kurtis and parallel trousers. • Mangalagiri material is also increasingly being used for curtains, bedcovers and pillowcases.