THE FRAGRANCES OF THE WORLD
PARFUMS DE MARLY
THE FRAGRANCES OF THE WORLD
Source: Fragrances of the World.info as of 19th March 2019 These figures include fragrances waiting to be released for 2018
Which distributors and brands will survive in this war? Consumers can’t follow anymore and don’t understand what
artisan really is, what makes the difference. There is a banalization of many selective offerings together with their
incessant flankers and limited editions, along with a continuing avalanche of unknown niche brands. Confusion
reigns. Will the bubble explode? Might it lead consumers, other than the dedicated perfumistas, to turn off?
Every year Michael Edwards and
his team from The Fragrances of
the World give us the big picture
of the fragrance launches. Some
categories decline slowly and
others come up strongly. The
artisan category may get a name
change as the number of launches
exceeds prestige… The lesson to
be learned is that the market is
being turned upside down. Artisan
is becoming the new prestige.
2. Nathalie Pichard toPNotes
■ EAUX DE POLITESSE BY SERGE LUTENS
■ ORMAIE PARIS
A new olfactory chapter comes up in Serge Lutens’ portfolio this spring.
The master of eclipse had carte blanche to surprise once more. After
L’Eau in 2010 and other collections (Gratte-Ciel, Section d’Or), back to
the sources of refinement.
A new ritual of fragrancing is revealed for oneself or for others: Eaux de
Politesse. What does Politesse (Politeness) mean? A savoir vivre, the
elegance of wearing a radiant perfume with discretion, with simplicity.
The opposite to bling, agressivity and darkness.
« Come into the light or disappearing to the shadow?
There is a time for everything » says Serge Lutens.
Art, luxury, natural, art déco, France, crafts
Ormaie Paris is a new Maison de Parfums founded by the mother and son, duo Baptiste Bouygues and
Marie-Lise Jonak. Passionate about perfumes and arts since his young age, Baptiste imagined a Parisian
brand founded on 100% natural ingredients and luxury. The brand takes inspiration in art, design and
memories. Bottles and wooden caps have been designed in France and are handmade. Each perfume has a
special bottle, in a 30’s art deco style. The label is customized according the name of the fragrance. Special
mention to Marie-Lise Jonak for her creations.
The names of the 7 fragrances describe personal memories and
tell stories: Yvonne, Le Passant, Toï Toï Toï, Les Brumes, l’Yvrée
Bleue, Papier Carbone, 28°
100% natural fragrances means vibrant, wild, authentic, realistic,
true, special, longlasting fragrances that don’t lie. They are real.
Fragrances are available at € 190, at Galeries Lafayette Champs-
Elysées, Madison Avenue and Barney NY and on the website
Serge Lutens often ties past to future, following his quest of transparency
begun in 2010 with L’Eau. Pure or unclear, water, as light, comes up from
shadow and slips away…
The collection is made up of 6 fresh and elegant fragrances: one is new,
L’Eau d’Armoise, 2 are retained (L’Eau de Paille and L’Eau Froide) and 3
are resfreshed (Gris Clair, Santal Blanc and Fleurs de Citronnier). The
entire collection plays between freshness and dryness, light and darkness.
The bottle is transparent, like a new water-polished bottle in Art Deco
style (the cap), contrasting squared and round.
The second flagship in Paris, St Honoré
■ SECRETS DE KHEDIJA BY KABEAH PARIS
Rose, Jasmine, Geranium, Honeysuckle: 4 iconic flowers from Tunisia,
stars of Kabeah Paris’s first collection ‘Secrets de Khedija’. The brand
was founded by Khedija Ben Ayed who was inspired by her love for
flowers, her souvenirs, her holidays in the family garden in Tunis when
she was younger. Perfumer Stéphanie Bakouche, captured those
emotions and created with nicest raw materials, Belle Epine, Lily
Chérie, Secret de K and Nuit de Jasmin. Khedija will explore other
flowers of the world with modernity, freshness, radiance and quality.
The fragrances are made in Grasse.
Launched first in USA (7 points of sale) and ww.kabeahparis.com, the
brand will extend and develop new scented rituals. Prices: €40/80
A first pop-up store was held in Paris, Place Furstenberg, where influencers and friends were very happy to celebrate
spring and this new lovely modern brand.
Young, fresh, modern, real.
3. Nathalie Pichard toPNotes
■ PERFUMIST, THE FRAGRANT APP
Approximately 2,000 new fragrances were released in 2018 which is about
ten times more than 20 years ago. Perfumist’s internal research showed
that 50% of consumers were not happy with the fragrance they purchased,
or that they were being offered. Some even got used to the fact that they
would have to buy three to four fragrances before they found one they
Using artificial intelligence, Perfumist was designed to help users find the
right fragrance within two minutes, based on notes and ingredients. Note
that people from India, China and even Africa are becoming very important
communities using Perfumist.
AI. App. Perfumes. Adviser. One motto “Bringing more perfumes to people, more people to
The idea of Perfumist, the application developed by Frenchman Frederick Besson, is to offer
a new way of discovering, choosing and buying a perfume in a store, assisted or not. Quite a
revolution. Free, rich in olfactory content, this app can help both consumers and
professionals in the huge world of fragrances. Anywhere, anytime, on a mobile or website.
The app now has a database of 30,000 perfumes from 1,500 brands – and it works in 30
languages (50 by the end of the year).
For beauty advisers, this app is aimed to help them, empower them and educate them to give better advice to their
clients, on the 4 continents covered. « Duty free retailers and airports are clearly interested by Perfumist as it also
helps customers to be autonomous and independent in-store and bring in extra sales »
Shopper: “Perfumist, show me all fragrances in this shop with jasmine or oud.” The app will answer. Whether a store
has ten fragrances or 5,000, we can help a customer make a selection. We geo-position users so they can find the
right perfume inside the store in minutes.
And what next? An e-commerce platform is not planned. The app is not aimed to sell to its community. It’s a matter
of credibility and independence. This way they are not favoring one fragrance over another based on pricing criteria.
They help online selling platforms offer better advice to their shoppers based on notes and ingredients. Perfumist
forecast to get 20 Millions of users by 2020.
The first ever coworking space dedicated to perfume,
and fragrance creation Work, Smell & Formulate
In 2018, the company has extended its activities by creating a new luminous space of coworking (80m²) aimed at
people (BtB or BtC) who want to go further in the world of fragrances: they get easy access to raw materials,
perfume databases, laboratories and weighing stations by passing a test, with a very flexible package offer – on a
hourly, weekly, monthly basis. A simple way to work and be supported with professional tools. The concept should
meet the high expectations from pros who need more professional olfactory support.
More info: www.cinquiemesens.com
■ COWORKING LAB AT CINQUIEME SENS
In 1976, Cinquième Sens was a pioneer fragrance
composition house created by one of the first French
independent perfumers, Monique Schlienger.
And it became the first professional training organizations
as well, specialized in perfumery. Who has not been
trained by Cinquième Sens at some time?
4. Nathalie Pichard toPNotes
■ COLORS, EXOTICISM, VINTAGE: what’s up?
Color and collection mania: be accessible,
affordable, qualitative and more fun. Avoid any
chance of boredom and stand out!
Innovative fragrant formulas: think of perfume
differently, alcohol free (molecular perfumes
with Hermetica) or solid/oils or powders.
Modern Vintage: offer a large line with different
concentrations, layering benefits to get your
customized signature scent (Gucci Alchemist
Here is a selection of new launches to highlight trends followed by the brands. A key trend is an ‘open bar of
concepts’: brands mix all expectations consumers may want or desire in different ways, even far away from their
■ PARFUMS DE MARLY
Cassili tells the story of Louis XV’s lover, Jeanne (Madame) de Pompadour, who was more than his
favorite. She was a patroness of the arts, especially the ceramics of Sevres, loved the art of
gardening and scents such as orange blossom. Cassili is about flowers, pastel colors. An irresistible
and delicious blend of velvety fruits and pastel flowers, with a sprinkle of vanilla and wood. Joyful,
sophisticated and distinguished. The brand is available in Printemps Paris, independent
perfumeries, department stores worldwide… More info: https://pmarly.com/fr/
Parfums de Marly, founded by Julien Sprecher, passionate about
perfumes and horses, was inspired by the lifestyle and the Castle of
Marly, in 18th century France. This castle was Louis XV’s court (Louis
the Great’s great-grandson) and it was all about hunts, horses racing,
perfumes, botanics and seduction. This is the inspiration for the
Parfums de Marly universe, dedicated to this era of ‘perfumed court’.
The Parisian boutique has recently been revamped and a new
fragrance called Cassili is to be launched next May.
The brand now has a collection of 25 perfumes for men and women.
Exoticism in fragrances: Smile, back with banana, coconut, sunny solar
notes (tuberosed facets, milky fresh notes) and vanilla (even if expensive)
in Guerlain, By Kilian, L’Artisan Parfumeur, Chopard …Bye bye oud; some
clean laundry notes may come back as well after years of woody, animalic,
Environment, ethics, responsibility as a mindset: think to the future with
sustainability, clean, green and luxury collections (Chopard, J.U.S, Wide
society, Le Couvent des Minimes, Burberry…).
Challenging fragrances: with 100% natural (Ormaie Paris, 100Bon, Fiilit) or
100% vegan (Le Couvent des Minimes, Sabe Masson, 100Bon) with an arty
or simple design…
New luxury: arty, design and upcycling such as J.U.S, …