Travel journalist - Afropolitan Magazine

1. Main Feature
Travel
My Odyssey
Written and photographed by Jacques Nell
My long-awaited,
much-anticipated and
I saw this journey to a faraway land
as a ‘personal odyssey’. I was deter-
mined to find out who I really was and
I realised our plane had not yet left OR
Tambo International Airport! In my mind
we should have been in Zanzibar by now.
Reality kicked in when an unemotional
well-deserved journey what life was all about before it was too
late.
voice asked us to disembark. The reason?
to Zanzibar began with Luggage difficulties!
On re-entering the departures termi-
immense pain and As I entered the international departures
terminal on my trek to the lost land of Nir-
nal – a whole lot sooner and less relaxed
than planned, the majority of my fellow
disappointment. This vana (oasis of enlightenment) a feeling of
freedom and unusual calmness came over
passengers and I headed to the closest
journey to mysterious me.
pub in the hope that some form alcoholic
nectar may drown our disappointment
In my many years of travelling, this was
Zanzibar, was more the first time I had experienced such a and anger. I observed from a distance and
noticed my travel comrades starting to
than just a simple feeling of unadulterated happiness…
After what seemed like endless antici- bond. I must add that the alcohol did play
vacation to ease an pation and patience, we finally boarded a part in this process. People were shar-
ing. Sharing their anger, sadness and dis-
the plane – some with audible cheers of
overworked mind. It joy. appointment. It suddenly dawned on me
that had it not been for this unexpected
was to be a journey I buckled myself in and drifted into a
deep sleep, hoping to re-awaken in a far- delay, so many relationships would never
of rediscovering my away land with a renewed verve.
I was rudely roused from an exquisite
have been formed. Two hours of intense
debate later, during which the founda-
being. dream, filled with astonishing sunsets tions for new friendships were laid, it
reflected in crystal clear water by an was announced that we could finally once
unnerving announcement. With a jolt again board our Starship.
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2. With great delight I gathered my hand My parents were travelling Greece at
luggage. Something was missing...then I the time; so I texted my Mom an abbrevi-
realised my travel pouch containing all ated version of my almost unbelievable,
my travel documents, passport, plane demoralizing experience. Curiosity and
ticket and cash, was nowhere to be found. confusion compelled her to call me imme-
After a frantic search I came to the sick- diately on receipt of my SOS. After much
ening conclusion that it had been stolen. Motherly comfort and advice – nothing
The repercussions of this invasion of soothes the soul quite like a mother’s
my person hit me like a well-placed punch voice – calmness washed over me…
to the chest. I would have to say farewell I suddenly received an unexpected
to my spiritual trek. command from within, instantly awaken-
I left the terminal and went directly to ing me, telling me that my spiritual voy-
the airport police. One totally unproduc- age to search for the spark I had lost, was
tive hour later it was painfully apparent just beginning and I should not question
how uncontrolled and impossible security the reasons or perceive this experience
is in an airport. The only explanation the as bad karma, but I should see it as the
police could offer me was that these pro- first step in my search for Nirvana.
fessional, unscrupulous thieves embark My perception of this disappointing
on a stealing frenzy ten minutes prior to situation began to alter. I went to Home
their own boarding time, jump on a plane Affairs, applied for a temporary passport,
just after their foul deed has been com- phoned my travel agent and booked
mitted, and your belongings are never another ticket to Zanzibar for the follow-
to be seen again! “What was that about ing Monday!
no crime syndicates operating out of OR After much angst waiting for the arrival
Tambo oh Mr Chief of Police?” of my temporary passport, I was ready to
After lengthy, useless, crime report leave for Zanzibar once again seven days
delivery, frustration and isolation later! This was a magical time in my life
overwhelmed me and I broke down. It and I realized that anything truly is pos-
seemed quite impossible that this could sible if only you believe that it is! And so
be happening to me, my rightful place in I took my first step to enlightenment and
paradise had been substituted with this confirmed that your mind will attract all
entirely unacceptable option. As I headed that you desire in life, if you choose to
home I felt the need to share my despair allow it to.
with anyone who would listen.
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3. Travel
Once you see life’s failures as fuel I saw and began to mentally plan my I hopped into my jeep and headed for
to ignite the growth of wisdom, lead- explorations for the next morning… Stone Town!
ing to compassion and understanding, After a restful night, I awakened to I was welcomed with traffic jams,
you allow yourself to learn how to oper- almost unbearable heat, forcing me to hoardes of people walking the streets
ate your mind effectively. Once this is head straight to the beach. Zanzibar’s – every second one trying to sell me
accomplished you will find yourself in a beaches are the kind seen in cheesy something. I was approached by a local
new great and wonderful world! You will fantasies you thought only existed in fisherman, who offered to show me all the
discover yourself to be a greater person Bounty adverts. The sea is an impossible fine and unique spots his home town had
(force) than you ever dreamed yourself to turquoise, with white, powdery soft sand to offer.
be… that stretches for miles; a Zen place in We set on the trail of sultans, slaves and
Seven days later than planned, I land- which to unwind... explorers in the winding, narrow streets
ed at Zanzibar’s airport in Stone Town. So much happens on Zanzibar’s beach- of Stone Town, my guide captivated me
As I left the plane, I was welcomed with es that it’s hard to know where to look retelling events that shaped Zanzibar
extreme heat and an enormous rusty sign first: at the small wooden sailing boats whilst leading me through the buildings
exclaiming Karibu Zanzibar (Welcome to that glide gently through the waves, at where it all happened. While tracing the
Zanzibar). the rows of ladies with bent backs har- steps of the past, my walking tour lead
The airport was – amazingly – extreme- vesting seaweed during low tide or at the me to the window of modern life in Stone
ly rundown (for one of the largest tourist young blooded warrior Masai walking the Town.
attractions in Africa??) but was beautiful shoreline projecting their powerful tribal We explored the markets; seafood and
in its own African way. After 30 minutes appearance. Almost boastfully. fish piled high in the fish market, freshly
spent waiting for my luggage, I was once Walking along the beach is a life- chopped meat hung in the meat market,
again disappointed. My luggage was affirming experience at any time of the newly baked loaves of bread languished
nowhere to be found. This time it hadn’t day, but even more so at sunrise when in wicker baskets and neat stacks of fruit
been stolen but ‘probably left behind the sand turns pale orange with an other- and vegetables abounded as traders sold
in Jozi’. Oddly enough, not having any worldly glow. After an inspiring walk and their wares from basic stalls.
luggage didn’t bother me at all, – just the most invigoratingly euphoric swim, Children played in the streets in the
another day in Africa. Last year I travelled
to Angola, were the same shit went down
and if you can survive without luggage in
ANGOLA you can cope anywhere!
The sea is an impossible turquoise, with
I rented a 4x4 and drove to my hotel, white, powdery soft sand that stretches for
anticipating a cold local beer. On my
arrival I ordered an ice cold Kilimanjaro miles; a Zen place in which to unwind...
and got comfortable in the first hammock
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4. residential areas; mamas sat out and
gossiped, while the men played board
As our dhow connected with the beach I games.
My new friend and I made a quick
was still trying to convince the universe escape from the heat of the hustle and
that it would be to its benefit if I were to bustle for a refreshing lemongrass tea,
the tea houses are the best places to
be reincarnated as an angel of the ocean. spend a lazy, hot afternoon reclining on
splendid Arabic cushions. Our walking
tour resumed, and I discovered a mind-
blowing antique shop, with the most
spectacular jewellery, mahogany chests
and time pieces, I even discovered a
compass dated 1910 and a silver pocket
sundial engraved ‘British Navy; Robert
Cook; 1914’!
No description of Stone Town could be
complete without mentioning the legend-
ary Zanzibar doors. These massive teak
or mahogany structures grace the front of
almost every building of any importance
and their style has been copied all over
the world. The original doors owe their
distinctive brass studs to India – the
studs originated as a defence against
war elephants, used to batter down for-
tified doors in the tribal wars. Each door
has been tailored to the social position,
religious practices and occupation of its
future owner.
After thanking my new friend, for the
unforgettable day, we parted ways and
I headed back to my hotel, recalling the
day’s moments and appreciating the
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5. Travel
wonderful, one-of-a-kind experience! itats of ‘their’ tropical rainforest. Troops I walked through the spice farm with
The next morning was soon upon me. of Red Colobus monkeys can also be seen a guide, touching, smelling and tasting
Today I intended to drive to the south of scrambling from branch to branch, in different spices and tropical fruits. This
the island at 5am for my…now wait for search of food. visit to the spice farm village gave me an
this…my Pomboo (Swahili for dolphin) The mangrove boardwalk takes you insight into local life and the opportu-
Dive! After an hour’s drive, I boarded a above the swamp where, depending on nity to try some authentic Swahili dishes,
traditional ocean-going dhow and began the tide, tropical fish flit between the taste the fruits in season, sip on spiced
to scan the ocean for these mystical crea- mangrove roots, crabs scuttle across the tea. I rounded off the experience with
tures I so desperately wanted to swim mud and turtles glide through the murky a deliciously aromatic lunch, prepared
alongside. A few minutes later we spotted water. Mangroves also play an important with the best of seasonal fruit and spices
a family of dolphins! role in environmental conservation and introduced to me during the tour.
Sleek and grey, they jack-knifed are a valuable resource for villagers and After a mind-blowing meal, I prepared
through the waters, showing off with community life. to experience Zanzibar’s night life!
jumps and twists. I then had the most After two days of pure rest and relax- I was told about a great 24-hour hang-
magical swim with these amazing crea- ation on the beach, I embarked on the out/backpacker hotel that is a famous
tures. After an hour-long soul fulfilling famous Spice Tour. In bygone days, night spot. After hard partying and cheap
experience, we headed back to dry land. Zanzibar was known as a spice island, talk with Italians, Americans, South Afri-
As our dhow connected with the beach I exporting cloves, vanilla, nutmeg and cans and Swedish beauties I headed back
was still trying to convince the universe cardamom across the world. The spices to my hotel.
that it would be to its benefit if I were to were brought over from Asia and South The next morning I was invited by a
be reincarnated as an angel of the ocean. America and flourished in the tropical cli- local diver for a snorkelling hunt on the
Accepting that this was not to be, I mate. Spices were the first luxury goods reef. I was welcomed by his family at their
set off to the Jozani Forest; this wonder to appear in the European economy, rents very primitive, but remarkable ‘Rock res-
and delight, with tales of Zanzibar leop- and debts could even be paid in spices taurant’. The idea was that I would have
ards, medicinal cures and breath taking rather than gold. to catch my own lunch, which they would
scenery. The forest is home to a number
of endemic species, including the endan-
gered Zanzibar Red Colobus Monkey. The
park ranger took me on a nature trail, In bygone days, Zanzibar was known as
lined with eucalyptus and mahogany
trees and explained the medicinal prop- a spice island, exporting cloves, vanilla,
erties of various plants and shared his
knowledge of animals, birds and reptiles
nutmeg and cardamom across the world.
that make their homes in the various hab-
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6. Travel
prepare. On our first dive we went spear After my three bonus days, I finally
fishing and I shot myself a Red Snapper. arrived at my oasis and I was ready to
We swam to the other side of the reef and return to reality. Reaffirming the words
caught two crayfish and an octopus. Back of an old dog, “Only those who seek shall
at the ‘restaurant’ I awaited my catch of find”.
the day. I was presented with an astound- After great difficulty finding a flight
ing platter, filling me with an even deeper back home, I finally booked onto a small,
respect and appreciation for the ocean. old four-seater propeller plane to Dar es
With a twinge of guilt I started to devour Salaam. “Let there be Peace” – what an
my Zan seafood feast!! amazing adrenalin-filled flight it was. I
The hospitality, pure love and appre- caught a connecting flight back to Egoli
ciation shared around this meal was rare, “The City of Gold” and in so-doing ended
an experience which would kick any five my trek.
star Mediterranean seafood restaurant’s Having allowed myself to see my nega-
butt! tive experiences as opportunities to grow
My incomparable day ended with sad into the antithesis had allowed me to
goodbyes and a rewarding swim back to finally find what I was looking for.
shore. I had almost found my Nirvana... When you choose to focus on what you
I begrudgingly went back to my base don’t want in your life, you subconscious-
and sadly packed for my departure the ly block out what you actually desire to be
following day. I awoke the next morning a part of your life. The realisation that the
with great heartache. Whilst preparing real source of happiness can be defined in
for my trek to the airport, rebellion over- one word: achievement!
came me…I decided stuff this and never I had finally realised that the universe
went to the airport, missing my flight with really does want you to win and be happy.
no remorse. Lasting happiness comes from strategi-
I reminded myself that you should cally and steadily working to accomplish
never do anything because you have your predetermined goals and growing
to, the only reason to do something is confidently in the direction of your life’s
because you want to and because you purpose.
know it is the right thing for you to do. This is the secret to kindling the inner
I spent an amazing extra three days on fire that lurks within us.
the beach, revisited Stone Town and the RASTA – Rightness Africans Stand
must-experience Rock Restaurant! Though All!!!!!
156 t he afropol itan I ssue 5 - June 2008