2. What is γ-PGA?
Structure of γ-PGA
Originally discovered in the marine jellyfish, γ-PGA helps
the jellyfish to store water in its fragile tissue and therefore
it would not dehydrate in salty sea water.
Poly-γ-glutamate (γ-
PGA) is a kind of
polypeptide in which
glutamate is
polymerized via γ-
amide linkages.
3. How?
Today, γ-PGA can be gained from a beloved traditional
Japanese food 'natto', the fermented soybeans. It can also
be biosynthesis from L-glutamic acid using the microbe
known as Bacillus Subtilis.
Natto
Bacillus subtilis
Large-scale production Sample of γ-PGA
5. Theory
• When applied on the skin, γ-PGA can increase the natural moisturizing factor
(NMF) in skin*. NMF is composed of Pyrrolidone carboxylic acid(PCA),
Lactic acid , Urocanic acid and some other amino acid compositions ,which
can enhance the skin moisturizing ability from inside, while hyaluronic acid
(HA) can not realize the function
* γ-PGA is currently known as the only one moisturizing ingredient which can increase NMF
6. Effectively Increasing NMF in Inner Skin
Whenγ-PGA used, Keratinocyte expansion so that
pores can be constringed and make the skin smooth
and soft.
γ-PGA can lock the moisture in inner skin by promoting
the growth of fibroblast and increasing the content of
NMF in horn cells.
7. Sustained release delivery
Persistent Moisturizing
Inhibiting melanin
Persistent
Moisturizing
•Better than HA and
Collagen
•Supply the skin
moisture
Against long time
drying environment
•Restore skin elasticity.
smooth fine lines
caused by dehydration
Enhance skin
health
•Promote the skin fiber
cell growth
•Increasing the content of
natural moisturizing
factor in skin cutin layer
•Balance the skin pH value
•Protect skin from
external environment
pollutants and bacteria
infection
Increase the skin absorption of the
maintenance component
Make skin white
Make skin healthy
The registration name of γ-PGA in Japan is Natto gum .The number of cosmetics is EINECS NO.310-127-6. γ-
PGA is also called botanic collagen and Canada FDA allows it applied in cosmetics and personal care products ,
the number is 9079-0201 NATTO GUM.
γ-PGA
Function in Cosmetics
8. Skin situation of moisture loss
after the use of moisturizing lotion
time:minute time:minute
Using effect of normal skin Using effect of dry skin
*The data come from Department of Cosmetic Science, Providence University, Taiwan
NO
moisture
loss
moisture
loss
NO
9. Compartion of γ-PGA、hyaluronic acid (HA) and collagen
on water holding capacity and elasticity of the skin
γ-PGA has a better ability and larger
capacity to hold water compared with the
widely advertised HA and stays more
elastic than the commonly-known collagen.
*Data come from:Japan ICHIMARU company
10. Comparison of effect on skin irritation between γ-
PGA, hyaluronic acid and collagen
The compound of γ-PGA (HM) and γ-PGA (LM) has better moisturizing efficacy. γ-PGA (HM) can form a protective film on the
surface of skin to prevent loss of moisture. Meanwhile,γ-PGA (LM) can nourish skin to deep layer by locking more moisture and
nutrients. As shown in Fig. A, adding 3%o of compound γ-PGA HM and at a ratio of 1: 1 can enhance the the moisturizing
effect and synergistically improve the effect of active ingredients in facial cream. Fig. B shows γ-PGA (HM) can effectively
improve skin humidity and elasticity.
11. Another comparison data of effect on skin irritation
between γ-PGA, hyaluronic acid and collagen
12. Inhibiting the formation of melanin ,its whitening effect is 50% of vitamin C
Whiten
the skin
sample
0.5%γ-PGA
(Na+, HM)
0.5% γ-PGA
(Na+, LM)
1% kojic acid 1% VC
Melanin inhibiting rate
(%)
31.5 51.5 99.8 98.3
Safety Mild and Safe Irritant Relapse
Stability UV-resistant
Broken and invalid under
UV or oxidants
γ-PGA can also whiten skin by controlling melanin synthesis to prevent and reduce
eckles.Ultraviolet irradiation is the main incentive of tyrosinase, which in tum induces
the formation of Melanin. This table illustrates the inhibition effect of γ-PGA, Kojic
acid and Vc on tyrosinase. As it shows, γ-PGA, either HM gamma PGA (0.5%) or
LM gamma PGA (0.5%) can effectively inhibit the formation of melanin. Meanwhile,
γ-PGA can form a film upon surface of skin which fences out ultraviolet.
13. Item
Essence Lotion Body Wash Soap
with 0.5%
PGA
Without
PGA
with 1%
PGA
without
PGA
with 0.8%
PGA
Without
PGA
with 1%
PGA
Without
PGA
Increasing
Smoothness
13/15
5/15 10/10 2/10 8/10 3/10 8/10
5/10
Increasing
Elasticity
10/15 5/15 7/10 2/10 7/10 4/10 8/10 3/10
Whitening
Effect
5/10 1/15 4/10 0/10 8/10 4/10 4/10 2/10
Irritative 0/15 3/15 0/10 0/10 1/10 3/10 2/10 2/10
Long Lasting
Moisturizing
11/15 5/15 9/10 6/10 10/10 3/10 9/10 4/10
Evaluation of cosmetics and personal
care formula containing PGA
Notes: 13/15 is number of person positively reacted/number of person tested
PGA has excellent compatibility in non-ionic, anionic and amphoteric surfactants. It is a perfect ingredient
for cream, essence, astringent, face mask, eye gel, sun cream, shampoo, body wash, lotion, hairstyle
formula and so on.
14. Make the skin
healthy Promote the growth of fibroblast, keep the skin healthy
Cell Layer Density
Sample
Total number of cellls whitin monoer(×104)
1# 2# 3# Mean(n=3)
Control 3.9±0.3 6.7±0.2 4.6±0.3 5.1±1.5
Test Extrract, with 1% PGA
(Na+ form),LM
9.6±0.4 7.7±0.2 7.6±0.6 8.3±1.1
15. Comparison of the effectiveness of
PGA, HA and Collagen in cosmetics
γ–PGA Sodium Hyaluronate Collagen protein
Origin
Non-Animal
(Bacteria fermentation)
non-animal sources(Bacteria
fermentation)
or animal sources(crest)
animal sources
(Pigs, cows or sheep)
Accessory No Endotoxin With Endotoxin Animal Allergen
Monomer Single amino acid Disaccharide derivatives glycine, proline and hydroxyproline
Anti-microbial ↗ → ↘
Natural moisturizing
ablility
↗ ↘ ↘
Hydrophilicity +++ ++ +
Elasticity +++ ++ +
Maintain skin pH +++ ++ +
Inducing the skin‘s
N.M.F.
+++ - -
pH, thermo-stability Most Stable Stable Fair
Touching Feeling Smooth,soft not oily Slight stick Slight stick
TEWL ↘ → →
Conclusion
Best moisturizer
Synergistic effect
Good Common
16. Potential applications ofγ-PGA and
γ-PGA Hydrogel for cosmetic use
Active component for lasting moisturizing and resistance to dry
conditions of human skin
Increasing the elasticity of human skin and keeping it tight and
smooth
Inhibiting the formation of melanin remarkably
Keeping pH balance of human skin
Forming a slow-release delivery system and therefore
improving the absorption capacity of nutrients in cosmetics
Enhancing color fastness after hair dying
Reducing split ends and leaving hair soft, glossy and
noticeably strong
Conclusion
17. 1. moisture distillate
Recommend 0.8-1.0% dosage in aqueous solution. Take 1% as an
example ,weigh 1g cosmetic grade PGA , adding some water at normal
temperature, stand and swelling about 30 min after stirring to dissolve. The
action should be quickly to avoid the product absorb moisture . The essence
can be used as the mask liquid, and also can be used for daily moisturizing.
The essence has a relatively short shelf life, so it need to add preservatives
if stored for a long time.
2. The lotion formulations
PGA can be mixed with HA , and reduce the skin greasy caused by
HA while moisturizing . It can be used in formula of fresh type product,
the amount of PGA in the general formula is 0.4-0.6%.
Use of PGA
18. Products/Brands which contains PGA...
• Sheseido:Bio-Performance Super Restoring Cream
• Clinique:Derma white brightening moisture cream
• Dr.PGA:Whitening and moisturizing series
• BRAPHY: γ-PGA Red Wine Mask
• Dior:Prestige Exquisite Lotion
• Mentholatum
• Vivan Queen
• NOEVIR
• Laneige
• Kose
• DHC
• ......