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Luxury, an overview of Valentino

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Luxury, an overview of Valentino

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This week I worked with the Italian luxury fashion house Valentino, now owned by the Qatari royal family. In this presentation you will find a brief history of the brand, my interpretation of its DNA and the Luxury Codes Prism applied to it step by step.

Please check the Google Presentation to enjoy the full audiovisual experience:

https://docs.google.com/a/ied.edu/presentation/d/1IBIOkiAfAq4ipSJ2OOTF7k-y8Y5yKXRFEF9Ka1Ur_Gc/edit?usp=sharing

Feel free to comment!

This week I worked with the Italian luxury fashion house Valentino, now owned by the Qatari royal family. In this presentation you will find a brief history of the brand, my interpretation of its DNA and the Luxury Codes Prism applied to it step by step.

Please check the Google Presentation to enjoy the full audiovisual experience:

https://docs.google.com/a/ied.edu/presentation/d/1IBIOkiAfAq4ipSJ2OOTF7k-y8Y5yKXRFEF9Ka1Ur_Gc/edit?usp=sharing

Feel free to comment!

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Luxury, an overview of Valentino

  1. 1. Juan Pablo Zuluaga & Charlotte Bontemps Luxury, an overview of Valentino Luxury Management IED Barcelona 2016
  2. 2. Outline: Luxury, an overview of Valentino 1. Introduction 1.1. Brief history of the brand 1.2. Brand DNA, references, space and time. 2. Proposal 2.1. The Luxury Codes Prism© · Does the brand follow them? · American or French approach to luxury? 2.2. The main brand differentiation 2.3. Positioning and target A day in a life of… 3. Recommendations 3.1. What can be improved? 4. Bibliography
  3. 3. 1.1. Brief history of the brand 1960 Valentino is founded by Valentino Garavani, later joined by Giancarlo Giammetti 1962 Valentino showed his first couture collection in Florence 1969 The first Valentino store is opened in Milan 1975 The first Valentino ready-to-wear collection is shown in Paris 2007 45th anniversary of the house. Valentino Garavani retires. Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli are appointed as Creative Directors 2016 1300 points of sale across the globe, $644M revenue 2013*
  4. 4. 1.2. Brand DNA, references, space and time 40’s & 50’s Haute Couture evening wear 60’s Hollywood Socialites Aristocracy Haute Couture FW 1961 Collection, Elizabeth Taylor Jackie Kennedy, New York, 1976Valentino learned from Jean Desses Red Valentino “Fiesta” dress, SS 1959
  5. 5. 2.1. The Luxury Codes Prism©
  6. 6. 2.1. The Luxury Codes Prism© - History / Tradition The Mirabilia Romae diffused exhibition is an ode to the cultural, artistic and architectural heritage of Rome, Valentino’s eternal source of inspiration. “Is an invitation to look into the past in order to pursue the right perspective for interpreting the present and imagining the future.” (Valentino.com. 2016)
  7. 7. 2.1. The Luxury Codes Prism© - History / Tradition A Tribute to Iconic Values is a short film that encapsulates the personal lives of Valentino’s Creative Directors Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli. It depicts how their creative vision is mixed with the broad heritage of the brand, and how this is translated into exquisite haute couture pieces.
  8. 8. 2.1. The Luxury Codes Prism© - Art Valentino renews its creative universe through collaborations. This is Water Song by Christi Belcourt, and its translation into the Valentino’s Water Song Collection.
  9. 9. 2.1. The Luxury Codes Prism© - Art This is the artwork by street artist Solo at our 5th Avenue Flagship Store. The giant mural, dedicated to the new #WonderWomanValentino collection
  10. 10. 2.1. The Luxury Codes Prism© - Art Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli will create the costumes for Flora and for the Chorus, for La Traviata, in collaboration with the Teatro dell’ Opera costume workshop. Sofia Coppola will be the director.
  11. 11. 2.1. The Luxury Codes Prism© - Technology Landing page and e-commerce platform powered by the Italian Group Yoox Net-A- Porter.
  12. 12. 2.1. The Luxury Codes Prism© - Technology Outstanding cross platform coverage, presence in 9 social media platforms, including the Asian markets: Weibo, Youku, WeChat
  13. 13. 2.1. The Luxury Codes Prism© - Technology Shop the instagram look via www.instashopvalentino.com >
  14. 14. 2.1. The Luxury Codes Prism© - Pedagogical Function “From Memory to Creativity,” a performance that gives a first-ever glimpse behind the scenes look at the Valentino Atelier. Inside the installation at the fashion house’s Miami flagship store, you’ll experience firsthand how each work of art—whether it’s a couture dress or a painting—can be a complex, often painstaking process of genius.
  15. 15. 2.1. The Luxury Codes Prism© - Craftsmanship know how From inside of the atelier, through the hands of the artisan, towards the finished product. Hand painting, hand sculpting and embroidery along with the antique finishing techniques. Made in Italy is always present but is not the main selling point.
  16. 16. 2.1. The Luxury Codes Prism© - Exclusive style proposition Rome is the beating heart their own Italian heritage Works of art : more than 6 people to create a dress -Plain black pieces with gold pendant necklaces -Leather flowers trellised a sheer tulle cape -Minuscule beads added substance to a lace gladiator minidress. -Arch motif -Double-face wool and velvet cape An eagle, a symbol of imperial Rome. It was the same bird that contractors found on the ceiling of the house's Roman atelier during its recent renovation. ancient symbols all over the collection >> Elitism and Escapism V
  17. 17. Silk chiffon Silk Satin Metallic cloque Metallic Boucle Budellini is a couture technique specific to Valentino, where double charmeuse silk is rolled and sewn around a looped length of wool. Drappeggio Meaning drapery or folds, drappeggio is a couture technique with chiffon and crepe silk draped on the bias Incrostazioni The word translates from Italian as “deposits” or “encrustations”, which gives a vivid picture of the relationship between the cut lace and the base fabric. Nervature The architectural “rib” structures in, for example, the ceiling of a gothic church. In couture it refers to the line detailing created when double-seamed organza silk is applied in strips to create a rib- or vein-like pattern on a dress. 2.1. The Luxury Codes Prism© - Rarity use of materials, fabrics and techniques
  18. 18. 2.1. The Luxury Codes Prism© - Limited edition and customization 2,000 numbered copies, signed by Valentino Garavani limited-edition sneakers for fashion week. Limited Edition Uomo Edition Noire - Tailoring services - Pre-order - Customizable accessories in shades of the brand’s iconic red color, allows consumers to place personalized studs on pumps, handbags and small leather goods.
  19. 19. 2.1. The Luxury Codes Prism© - Questions · Does the brand follow them? Valentino utilizes every luxury code available in the prism. - An iconic founder - Its strong relationship with Rome and its cultural and artistic heritage - The artistry of the handmade - The rareness of its materials - Its undisputable red - Its limited editions with premium pricing - Its aristocratic and socialite clientele
  20. 20. 2.1. The Luxury Codes Prism© - Questions · American or a French approach to luxury? French The priority is on the object, perfect, regardless of material used. The treatment of the raw material. The accent is on the process before the final object -> The artisan Savoir faire, tradition
  21. 21. Strong aristocratic connection 2.2. The main brand differentiation The red Valentino Rarity on the materials, processes and techniques The myth of the creator
  22. 22. - Traditional with hints of modernity - Artistic - Romantic - Sophisticated - Exclusive 2.3. Positioning
  23. 23. A chic young clientele that belongs to the new generation of international jet setters. Also a loyal customer from the upper class . Cultural International Upper classTraveler Powerful jet-setters 2.3. Positioning and Target / Moodboard
  24. 24. 2.3. Positioning and Target / A day in the life of Naomi Watts
  25. 25. 3.1. Recommendations / What can be improved? An alliance with Ebay Inc: - Enhance in store experience with "interactive walls", allow the client not only to browse across brand content and collections, but also to select and ask for items to be placed in the fitting room, and a drink, why not? A prize for young artists: - Increase recognition and engagement among new generations of artists by promoting and sponsoring the most talented ones. Create co-created capsule collections with the winners
  26. 26. Thank you for your time Juan Pablo Zuluaga & Charlotte Bontemps Luxury, an overview of Valentino Luxury Management IED Barcelona 2016
  27. 27. http://fashionista.com/2014/03/valentino-revenue-2013 http://tirellicostumi.com/en/collaboratore/valentino_157 http://marconevalentine.blogspot.com.es/2012_03_01_archive.html http://museemagazine.com/culture/art-out/ron-galella-55-years-a-paparazzi/ https://www.google.com/culturalinstitute/u/0/asset-viewer/QgGTvtIv2473ZA?hl=en https://purestyleedition.wordpress.com/category/fashion-houses/page/2/ https://es.pinterest.com/pin/318770479853459693/ http://arabia.style.com/people_parties/valentino-art-basel-miami-mirabilia-road/ https://issuu.com/cocoandcake/docs/strategic_plan_final 4. Bibliography

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