1. 38 hairmagazine.co.uk
CITY BOY SLICK
The slick look is back this season and
showcased to perfection at Louis
Vuitton. For me, this is a great look as
it really captures a cool fashion style
that can be achieved by anyone. A key
feature of this trend is that it can look
just as good in the boardroom as it
does on the red carpet or the dance
floor. This look is easily achieved with
the right knowledge and tools. It looks
best when styled without gels as this
type of product stiffens and separates
which can take away from the overall
feel. The best way to achieve this look
is to use a smoothing cream, such
as Matrix Smooth Setter, then blow
dry the hair back and flat using a soft
brush. When dried, opt for a cocktail
of products to finish; my favourite is to
take some Matrix Over Achiever and
mix with two drops of Matrix Style
Link Boosters (Hold and Gloss) as this
will keep the hair softer but with hold.
Apply this throughout the hair so that
it’s all evenly covered, then saturate
the hair but not to the point where it’s
dripping. Then decide how you want
it to look – with or without a parting.
Personally I feel a parting really sets the
look off! Use a comb to help you fix a
deep side parting on your preferred
side. Separate the hair, and start by
working the back and sides, brushing
back away from the face and towards
the nape. The key here is to use a bristle
brush rather than a comb to avoid
marks in the hair. When you’re happy
with the look, add some hairspray to
hold in place.
SEVENTIES NATURAL
The natural look has been a big theme
this season and works best on longer
hair and curls – as seen at Burberry and
Gucci. It’s a simple look to achieve. My
top tip is to apply a sea salt spray like
MR. Sea Salt Spray throughout damp
hair and leave to dry naturally. If you
don’t have the time for your hair to dry
naturally, apply Style Link Grip Definer
from roots to tip and dry the hair with
a diffuser attachment to give it extra
volume and shape. Finish with an oil or
serum to prevent any flyaways. Less is
more with oil so use sparingly – you can
add but you can’t take away...
Feature:MattElliottImage:JAMIESTEVENSHAIR
Man Of The Month
This month I’ve chosen one of Britain’s coolest men and fashion week regular
Mr Tinie Tempah. I love his look; he works with his natural hair – keeping the
length on top – and pairs it with a perfectly groomed soft fade on the sides –
keeping it bang on trend every year.
Guess who’s
been in...
We’ve had model Joel Mignott in
this month. I’ve worked with him
quite a few times – he’s regularly
featured on some of the biggest
catwalks, including Vivienne
Westwood. Joel is the perfect
example of on-trend hair. For his look
we worked with colour, lightening
the hair and bringing out his natural
curly texture. I took the cut short
through the back and sides but left
a solid weight line to create a
wedge effect. I kept the length on
top to give a soft, natural feel.
THE MILITARY LOOK
Inspired by catwalk king, Balmain, I see
this as a variation to the ever-popular
skin fade as hair is cut higher up on
the back and sides but maintains the
length and texture on the top. Another
popular look here is the creation
of strong wedge-like lines to really
separate the top and bottom and
makes a strong statement look. Styling
the hair is completely up to you, I like
to soften the texture to work against
the cut. Try using some Matrix Mess
Maker through the top of the hair and
blow-dry back – focusing on getting
maximum root lift throughout. Finish
with some matt paste to give hold then
simply brush into your desired shape
with a soft vent brush for a groomed
finish.
MODERN GENT
This look is really coming through
for this season; I spotted it at Alfred
Dunhill and many other shows – think
groomed but with an air of subtlety
mixing texture, fringes and side
partings. Hair should look natural and
have an effortless feel to it – a great
evening look for those wanting to
avoid too much product and adopt
a softer approach to styling. The
key to styling this look is to work
the hair within its natural confines.
Achieve this by putting in soft styling
products like Matrix Smooth Setter
with two drops of hold booster and
distributing throughout damp hair.
Then dry the hair whilst manipulating
it with your fingers. When your hair
is almost dry, use a soft vent brush
to lightly smooth and shape the hair
into your desired style. To finish, use
a fingernail sized amount of Matrix
Shape Switcher, starting at the back
and working forward, focusing on
the roots. Lightly brush into shape
and you’re good to go! Avoid using
hairspray or fixing products, keep it
natural and allow for movement.
TOP TRENDS: WINTER ‘16
Sporting a ‘hot on the runway’ hairstyle is a popular way for men to showcase that
they still have their finger firmly on the fashion pulse. However, not everyone feels
the need to follow trends religiously; some just like to maintain their own signature
style and adopt simple tweaks to their hairstyle in order to freshen it up. There’s
something for everyone as most of the trends can be reproduced for various hair
types. Magazine’s Men’s Hairdresser of the Year Jonathan Andrew is here to
guide you through the main trends that will be taking over the streets this winter...
WINNER
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2. hairmagazine.co.uk 39
A CUT ABOVE!
Nick Gibbens, male grooming expert at
Shaving-shack.com, offers his top tips for a
perfect cut throat shave
There’ssomethingaboutshavinginthetraditional
way. The time, preparation, methodical rhythm
of the brush as it swirls building lather. The cool,
dangerous sensation of sharp steel sliding across
yourface;itbringsasenseofmanliness,suave007
to the every day. This feeling and style of shaving
once practised by grandfathers, then regulated
to the barbershop, is now making a movement
back into the modern man’s bathroom. If you
want to take a few more minutes to make a chore
feel like a pleasure and leave you with that Bond
feeling, follow along...
GETTIN’ HOT
Arguably, the most important step of the process
is preparing your beard for the shave. While the
barber uses a hot towel in his shop, you have
the next best thing: a hot shower. The heat and
moisture softens the beard hairs and hydrates
the skin, making it more supple and resistant to
injury.
TOOLS OF THE TRADE
One thing you should not compromise on is your
shaving brush. It should be from a reputable
source and of the highest quality you can afford.
A badger hair brush is most desirable because
of its water holding ability and lather creating
design. Your razor should be top notch, too; a
good piece of steel from a reputable company.
The strop should be of good leather and
preferably three inches wide. Why strop your
blade? The strop aligns the molecules at the
end of the razor’s edge, removing any burrs, and
keeps that keen edge cutting. One repetition of
stropping is when you push the blade away from
you and pull towards you, rolling the blade on
the tang or back of the blade. A good stropping
should be from 30-50 of these reps.
TECHNIQUE
When shaving with a straight razor you want to
keep the angle of the blade between 20 and 30
degrees. Short, even strokes with light pressure
will guide you in ridding the beard. First, go
with the direction of growth, and as you gain
experience switch to across the grain. Finally, go
against the grain to obtain an extremely close
shave. Oh, and don’t forget to finish your shave
with a cold water rinse! The cold water finish
closes the pores and refreshes the skin. A good
quality aftershave balm will also help close the
pores and refresh but will also heal the skin from
any damage that might have occurred and give
a smooth finish to your shave.
Pair The Bluebeards
Revenge
Broadsword
Straight Razor with
Triumph & Disaster
Old Fashioned
Shave Cream for
the ultimate old
school shaving
experience.
We all love a hot shower but it is no
good for hair, it dries it out and makes it
frizzy. If you can’t face a cooler shower,
rinse your hair with tepid water at the
end to help make it soft and shiny.
Men have a tendency to skip
conditioning their hair and often
just rub a bit of shampoo through
quickly. There are two changes that
need to be made here. First of all,
stop shampooing every day. It strips
your hair of protective oils created by
Noughty Detox
2-In-1 Shampoo
& Conditioner
250ml, £6.99
Colorproof Super Rich
Moisture Conditioner
250ml, £21.95
Simply Man
Performance 3-In-1
Shampoo 200ml,
£9.99
Rich Argan
Oil Elixir
70ml, £14.90
Bvlgari Man
Black Orient Edt
100ml, £73
the scalp so stick to three
washes a week. If you are
prone to greasy hair, try a
water wash on the other
days, which should rinse
away the grease.
The second change is
to deep condition your hair
regularly. You deserve soft,
shiny hair too. Cold weather
saps hair of moisture
so conditioning can
counterbalance this affect.
To style your hair in the
winter use a small amount
of pomade. It will help keep
your hair looking slick and
smooth. Use a wide tooth
comb when grooming your
hair as it is more delicate in the
winter.
Finally, the fool-proof option
is to cover up in bad weather.
Protecting it through the high
winds, rain and whatever else
the British winter throws our
way will go a long way to
keeping hair healthy, whatever
your style.
WINTER HAIR CARE
Men tend not to
spend as much
time caring for
their hair as ladies
do. However, they
still suffer with
the same issues
such as dry hair or
scalp in the winter.
Internationally
renowned barber
Joseph Lanzante
has some essential
advice to keep hair
looking slick and
healthy in the brisk
winter months
MEN’S ROOM RECOMMENDS...