This document introduces marker making in the garment industry. It defines marker making as the precise arrangement of pattern pieces on fabric. It discusses factors to consider like fabric width and length. It also covers marker efficiency calculation and factors that influence it. The document outlines manual and computerized marker making methods and their advantages/disadvantages. It describes problems in marker making like maintaining grain line and fabric characteristics. Finally, it discusses fabric wastage outside markers and different methods for drawing and duplicating markers.
3. Marker MakingMarker Making
Definition:Definition:
precise arrangement of pattern piecesprecise arrangement of pattern pieces
oror
process of determining the most efficientprocess of determining the most efficient
layout of pattern pieceslayout of pattern pieces
Points to be considered beforePoints to be considered before
marker making:marker making:
•• Fabric width must be higher than marker width (1/2Fabric width must be higher than marker width (1/2
inch)inch)
Fabric length must be higher than marker length.Fabric length must be higher than marker length.
Length of the cutting table.Length of the cutting table.
Production planning.Production planning.
When pattern pieces are laid down on the piece of cloth,When pattern pieces are laid down on the piece of cloth,
the grain line should be parallel to the line of the warpthe grain line should be parallel to the line of the warp
in the woven fabric and wale in the knitted fabric.in the woven fabric and wale in the knitted fabric.
5. Marker Efficiency:Marker Efficiency:
The percentage of the total fabric that isThe percentage of the total fabric that is
actually used in garment parts.actually used in garment parts.
Area of pattern in the markerArea of pattern in the marker
Marker Efficiency = -----------------------------------------X 100%Marker Efficiency = -----------------------------------------X 100%
Total area of the marker planTotal area of the marker plan
6. Factors influencing Marker efficiencyFactors influencing Marker efficiency
•• Marker planner:Marker planner:
competency, experience, honesty andcompetency, experience, honesty and
technical knowledge of the marker plannertechnical knowledge of the marker planner
•• Size of the garments:Size of the garments:
Smaller and larger garment sizesSmaller and larger garment sizes Marker↓ Marker↓
EfficiencyEfficiency
•• Numbers of sizes in a style:Numbers of sizes in a style:
FFewer and higher numbers of sizes in a styleewer and higher numbers of sizes in a style ↓↓
Marker EfficiencyMarker Efficiency
7. •• Marker length:Marker length:
Higher marker length Marker Efficiency.↑Higher marker length Marker Efficiency.↑
•• Pattern Engineering:Pattern Engineering:
Marker efficiency can be increased byMarker efficiency can be increased by
changing pattern design of particular parts ofchanging pattern design of particular parts of
the garments.the garments.
•• Fabric characteristics:Fabric characteristics:
Usually symmetrical fabric Marker Efficiency↑Usually symmetrical fabric Marker Efficiency↑
Asymmetric fabric Lower marker efficiency.↓Asymmetric fabric Lower marker efficiency.↓
8. •• Marker making method:Marker making method:
We can generally make markers by twoWe can generally make markers by two
methods .methods .
•• Marker width:Marker width:
The more the fabric widthThe more the fabric width
9. Methods of marker makingMethods of marker making
A. Manual method.A. Manual method.
In this process, marker can be made in two waysIn this process, marker can be made in two ways
a.a. By using full size pattern:By using full size pattern:
-full size pattern pieces on marker-full size pattern pieces on marker paperpaper
oror
-directly on the top ply of the fabric in a-directly on the top ply of the fabric in a
spreadspread
b.b. By using miniaturized pattern:By using miniaturized pattern:
-full size pattern pieces are-full size pattern pieces are reducedreduced toto
1/5 of its original size1/5 of its original size by using pantographby using pantograph
-made by plastic sheet or thick board paper-made by plastic sheet or thick board paper
-Marker planning is done by using those-Marker planning is done by using those
miniaturized patternsminiaturized patterns
10. Features of manual marker makingFeatures of manual marker making
time consuming and require a great deal oftime consuming and require a great deal of
spacespace
errors and inconsistencies that may occur inerrors and inconsistencies that may occur in
grain variation, poor line definition,grain variation, poor line definition,
placement and alignment of pieces and slipplacement and alignment of pieces and slip
of the piecesof the pieces
Accuracy of a manually made markerAccuracy of a manually made marker
depends on the skill of the individual whodepends on the skill of the individual who
laid out the marker and traced itlaid out the marker and traced it
11. B.B. computerized marker makingcomputerized marker making
very accurate and provides the greatest opportunity forvery accurate and provides the greatest opportunity for
pattern manipulation, marker efficiency and shortestpattern manipulation, marker efficiency and shortest
response timeresponse time
Production patterns may be developed on the computer orProduction patterns may be developed on the computer or
digitized or scanned in to the computerdigitized or scanned in to the computer
parameters for markers are entered in to the computerparameters for markers are entered in to the computer
from cutting orders - style numbers, size distribution andfrom cutting orders - style numbers, size distribution and
fabric widthfabric width
12. Advantages of computerized methodAdvantages of computerized method
Increases in material efficiency with subsequentIncreases in material efficiency with subsequent
decreases in material waste,decreases in material waste,
Time and labor savings in making markers;Time and labor savings in making markers;
Improvements in overall marker quality;Improvements in overall marker quality;
Avoidance of backlogs during peak periods; andAvoidance of backlogs during peak periods; and
Fast, precise cost proposals for clients.Fast, precise cost proposals for clients.
Disadvantages of computerized method:Disadvantages of computerized method:
Initial investment is high.Initial investment is high.
Skilled operator is requiredSkilled operator is required
13. Problems of Marker making:Problems of Marker making:
a.a. Grain LineGrain Line : Hang and drape of the garment: Hang and drape of the garment
is depending on the matching of grain line. Tois depending on the matching of grain line. To
maintain grain line is one of the biggestmaintain grain line is one of the biggest
constraints to achieve higher marker efficiencyconstraints to achieve higher marker efficiency
b.b. Characteristics of the fabric:Characteristics of the fabric: SpecialSpecial
attention required to set pattern pieces on theattention required to set pattern pieces on the
asymmetrical fabric, such as pile fabric, specialasymmetrical fabric, such as pile fabric, special
print etc.print etc.
c.c. Design of the garments:Design of the garments: Garments fromGarments from
check or stripe fabric requires mirror imagecheck or stripe fabric requires mirror image
(matching check or stripe in adjacent two parts(matching check or stripe in adjacent two parts
of the garment)of the garment)
14. d. Cutting Quality:d. Cutting Quality: Marker should beMarker should be
made carefully so that cutting blade can movemade carefully so that cutting blade can move
easily in the layeasily in the lay
e. Production Planninge. Production Planning:: productionproduction
planning is a constraint of marker making asplanning is a constraint of marker making as
numbers of pieces of different sizes are notnumbers of pieces of different sizes are not
exactly proportionate.exactly proportionate.
15. Fabric wastage outside markerFabric wastage outside marker
Ends of ply lossesEnds of ply losses:: For the extensibility ofFor the extensibility of
the fabric and limitation of cutting machines, 2the fabric and limitation of cutting machines, 2
cm allowances is required in each end of the eachcm allowances is required in each end of the each
ply.ply.
Loss of fabric endsLoss of fabric ends:: during preparation of theduring preparation of the
fabric lay, the last or end remains of the fabricfabric lay, the last or end remains of the fabric
roll are separated by cutting.roll are separated by cutting.
Selvedge lossesSelvedge losses: Each fabric has two selvedges: Each fabric has two selvedges
along width. The amount of cut out is consideredalong width. The amount of cut out is considered
3% (approximately) along width3% (approximately) along width
Purchase loss:Purchase loss: Less fabric may wound on rollLess fabric may wound on roll
than identified lengththan identified length
16. Methods of Drawing a MarkerMethods of Drawing a Marker
1. Marking directly on the fabric1. Marking directly on the fabric
a.a. Drawing by Chalk or pencilDrawing by Chalk or pencil::
mark directly onto the fabric using pipe clay ormark directly onto the fabric using pipe clay or
wax not allow copying least accurate method Notwax not allow copying least accurate method Not
applicable method for pile or woolen fabricapplicable method for pile or woolen fabric
B.B. Paint Spray:Paint Spray: fine jets of paint arefine jets of paint are
sprayed over the patterns that have been laid onsprayed over the patterns that have been laid on
the fabric, leaving an outline of the patterns whenthe fabric, leaving an outline of the patterns when
they are removedthey are removed
17. 2. Marking on the paper:2. Marking on the paper: pattern piecespattern pieces
are precisely arranged on to the markerare precisely arranged on to the marker
paper and draw the outline of the patternspaper and draw the outline of the patterns
by using pencil. This method is widelyby using pencil. This method is widely
used in the industry.used in the industry.
3. Computerized Drawing:3. Computerized Drawing:
– Graded patterns in the computer are manipulated onGraded patterns in the computer are manipulated on
screen to produce a markerscreen to produce a marker
– the corresponding fabric width is shown on the screenthe corresponding fabric width is shown on the screen
and the range of the pattern pieces are shown on topand the range of the pattern pieces are shown on top
18. 3. Computerized Drawing:3. Computerized Drawing:
– These pieces can be rotated, reversed andThese pieces can be rotated, reversed and
moved into placemoved into place
– The computer can calculate marker efficiencyThe computer can calculate marker efficiency
– The completed marker is then drawn using aThe completed marker is then drawn using a
linked digital plotter.linked digital plotter.
4. Photographic System:4. Photographic System: patterns pieces arepatterns pieces are
set onto a light sensitive paper passingset onto a light sensitive paper passing
through ultra-violet light and revealed by usingthrough ultra-violet light and revealed by using
ammonia vaporammonia vapor
19. Methods of Duplicating a Marker:Methods of Duplicating a Marker:
a. Carbon duplicating:a. Carbon duplicating:
-Carbon paper in between two marker paper-Carbon paper in between two marker paper
– Suitable to copy 3-4 piecesSuitable to copy 3-4 pieces
– This duplication method has fairly low capital andThis duplication method has fairly low capital and
material costsmaterial costs
b. Spirit duplicatingb. Spirit duplicating:: working procedure is same asworking procedure is same as
Office duplicating machine/Xerox machineOffice duplicating machine/Xerox machine
– Only significant difference is that the size of the machineOnly significant difference is that the size of the machine
– Suitable for copying 40-50 piecesSuitable for copying 40-50 pieces
20. c. Photographic method:c. Photographic method: With theWith the
photographic method, the original marker is setphotographic method, the original marker is set
onto a light sensitive paper using ultra-violet lightonto a light sensitive paper using ultra-violet light
and revealed by using ammonia vapor……and revealed by using ammonia vapor……
d. Perforated method:d. Perforated method: obsoleteobsolete
technique that involves punching a series oftechnique that involves punching a series of
perforation around the marker, placing it on theperforation around the marker, placing it on the
fabric and lightly dusting with chalk. It can befabric and lightly dusting with chalk. It can be
used many timesused many times