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International journal on Textile Engineering and Processes
Volume 1, Issue 1,
January 2015
Copyright@CTF- MPSTME Page 2
From the Desk of Editor in Chief
We are very glad to present the first volume of Textile research journal with title
“International Journal on Textile Engineering and Processes”.
This volume contains a wide range of research papers covering different
spectrums of Textiles Engineering and Processes. Authors from different areas
like Technical personnel, academicians and Textile Machinery Manufacturers
were contributed peer quality research papers to this Journal. This journal will be
very helpful to develop a new breed of Entrepreneurs and Research Scholars. We
would like to place in record the patronage and support provided by our beloved
Director Dr. Pradeep Waychal in bringing out the journal. We are also thankful to
our vice-chancellor, Pro vice chancellor, Dean and other authorities for their
encouragement in publishing this Textile research journal
We are thankful to all the contributors of papers and our well wishers and look
forward for their valuable suggestions.
Dr. P. P. Raichurkar
Associate Dean
International journal on Textile Engineering and Processes
Volume 1, Issue 1,
January 2015
Copyright@CTF- MPSTME Page 3
CTF MPSTME
Best Wishes from Associate Dean
Textile industry is important in the world which caters fundamental needs
of large population of the world and offers employment as well as plays key role
in economic ecosystem. India is having strong base of cotton growing
farmers, machinery manufacturers, technologists, researchers and
consumers. Textile industry needs to maintain pace with rapidly changing
technologies and modern consumer demands. All textile industry stake holders
should have exposure to advancement in the field. This journal is fulfilling exact
need of the textile industry.
I am sure that papers in this journal will help readers to keep updated and force
them to think differently than conventional approaches to improve efficiency of
production, various applications, automation, and customizable demand-supply
and grow business. This effort will lead to increase in overall contribution to
develop emerging economies.
Dr. Manoj Kumar Deshpande PhD
Professor & Associate Dean,
Head-Innovative Entrepreneurship Development Center [ IEDC] Shirpur
www.nmims.edu/shirpur/iedc
International journal on Textile Engineering and Processes
Volume 1, Issue 1,
January 2015
Copyright@CTF- MPSTME Page 4
Editorial Board
Editor in Chief
Dr. P. P. Raichurkar- Associate Dean, CTF MPSTME
Associate Editor
Dr. Vishnu A. Dorugade- Principal, CTF-MPSTME
Executive Editor
Prof. M. Ramachandran- Assistant Professor, MPSTME
Prof. Vijay Shivankar - Associate Professor CTF-MPSTME
Managing Editor
Mr. Kiran More- CTF- MPSTME
Editorial Board
Dr N N Mahapatra
C.Col FSDC ( U.K), C.Text FTI ( Manchester )
Sen Mem ,AATCC( USA), FIC,FTA,FICS ,FIE( I),C.Engg
Dr. Jasmine Zhang
Green Initiatives, Intertek China
Dr Gajanan Bhat
Professor, Materials Science & Engineering
The University of Tennessee, USA
Dr V Subramaniam - Professor & Director Jaya Engineering College Chennai
Prof. Madhuri Kakade -Assistant Professor, CTF-MPSTME
International journal on Textile Engineering and Processes
Volume 1, Issue 1,
January 2015
Copyright@CTF- MPSTME Page 5
Prof. Tushar Patil - Assistant Professor, CTF-MPSTME
Prof. Harshada Upasini - Assistant Professor, CTF-MPSTME
Content
Sl.
No.
Name Topics
Page
No
1
Prof. Ashok
Kumar Panigrahi
Managing Working Capital – A Practical
Approach 6
2
Prof.
Abdulsalam. A.
Bagwan,
Spinning Technology & Practices,
Meets international quality
requirements of yarn for terry towel
production.
16
3
Prof. Tushar C.
Patil,
Terry Towels ,Classification,
Designing & Manufacturing Tech
23
4 Prof. R.D. Parsi Fibers Used in Terry Towels 32
5
Prof. Pranjali
Chandurkar,
Total Quality Management in Terry
Fabric Manufacturing
40
6
Prof. Harshada
Upasani
Quality Testing of the Terry Towel
and It’s Assurance
48
7
Dr. Vishnu A.
Dorugade,
Terry Towel Industry and Its
Processing
54
8
Prof. Madhuri V.
Kakde
Defects Their Causes and Remedial
Measures in Terry Fabric
71
9
Prof. Vijay D.
Ghongade
Textile industry: work practices in
organized and decentralized sector.
77
10
Dr. P P
Raichurkar
Quality Management: Important Aspect of
Terry Towel cluster Development
83
11
Prof. M.
Ramachandran,
Application of Natural Fibres in Terry
Towel Manufacturing
87
International journal on Textile Engineering and Processes
Volume 1, Issue 1,
January 2015
Copyright@CTF- MPSTME Page 6
Managing Working Capital – A Practical Approach
Ashok Kumar Panigrahi
Associate Professor in Finance, NMIMS University, Shirpur.
Mail ID – panigrahi.ak@gmail.com
Abstract
Working capital management plays a significant role in improved profitability of firms.
Firms can achieve optimal management of working capital by making the trade-off
between profitability and liquidity. Though there are too many researches has been
conducted on the topic working capital management and its impact on profitability, but
there is no major research has been done for the negative working capital and its impact
on profitability. All the studies on working capital generally states that for the
improvement in profitability we should manage our working capital effectively and most
of the studies recommended to have good amount of working capital in the organization.
All the researches on this topic conclude that the companies should avoid under-
investment in working capital if they want higher profit margins. With negative working
capital there can be a danger of insolvency but it is not true forever. If the company is
having a good image in the market and good relation with their creditors it can get the
benefit from the negative working capital also.
Various studies shows that though there is a positive relationship between working
capital and profitability, yet it does not hold good for all the cases and that too always.
We have seen companies generating good profit with a negative working capital as well
as companies not able to generate good profit even with having good amount of positive
working capital. However, it can be said that negative working capital indicates non-
liquidity or less liquidity within the firm which is not desirable at each and every stages
of business.Hence, the question arises that having negative working capital is good for an
organization or not and if a company is earning profit continuously with having negative
working capital, can we say that it is a sign of managerial efficiency or there might be the
chances of possible bankruptcy of the company?
Key Words: Working Capital, Profitability, Liquidity, Bankruptcy, Working
Capital Cycle.
Introduction
International journal on Textile Engineering and Processes
Volume 1, Issue 1,
January 2015
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What is working capital management and why is working capital management important
to your business?In its most basic form, working capital is the cash available to a
business to pay its day-to-day operating expenses, such as salaries and raw materials.Yet
with businesses still finding it difficult to gain access to finance, managing working
capital has become more important than ever before.Effective management will mean
working at both ends of the equation, by managing the cash coming in as well as the cash
going out.
Understand the Working Capital Cycle
Cash flows in a cycle into, around and out of a business. It is the business's life blood and
every manager's primary task is to help keep it flowing and to use the cash flow to
generate profits. If a business is operating profitably, then it should, in theory, generate
cash surpluses. If it doesn't generate surpluses, the business will eventually run out of
cash and expire.
The faster a business expands the more cash it will need for working capital and
investment. The cheapest and best sources of cash exist as working capital right within
business. Good management of working capital will generate cash will help improve
profits and reduce risks. Bear in mind that the cost of providing credit to customers and
holding stocks can represent a substantial proportion of a firm's total profits.
There are two elements in the business cycle that absorb cash - Inventory (stocks and
work-in-progress) and Receivables (debtors owing you money). The main sources of
cash are Payables (your creditors) and Equity and Loans.
International journal on Textile Engineering and Processes
Volume 1, Issue 1,
January 2015
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Each component of working capital (namely inventory, receivables and payables) has
two dimensions ........TIME ......... and MONEY. When it comes to managing working
capital - TIME IS MONEY. If you can get money to move faster around the cycle (e.g.
collect monies due from debtors more quickly) or reduce the amount of money tied up
(e.g. reduce inventory levels relative to sales), the business will generate more cash or it
will need to borrow less money to fund working capital. As a consequence, you could
reduce the cost of bank interest or you'll have additional free money available to support
additional sales growth or investment. Similarly, if you can negotiate improved terms
with suppliers e.g. get longer credit or an increased credit limit; you effectively create
free finance to help fund future sales.
If you....... Then......
• Collect receivables (debtors) faster You release cash from the
cycle
• Collect receivables (debtors) slower Your receivables soak up
cash
• Get better credit (in terms of duration or amount)
from suppliers
You increase your cash
resources
• Shift inventory (stocks) faster You free up cash
• Move inventory (stocks) slower You consume more cash
It can be tempting to pay cash, if available, for fixed assets e.g. computers, plant,
vehicles etc. If you do pay cash, remember that this is now longer available for working
capital. Therefore, if cash is tight, consider other ways of financing capital investment -
loans, equity, leasing etc. Similarly, if you pay dividends or increase drawings, these are
cash outflows and, like water flowing down a plug hole, they remove liquidity from the
business.
Sources of Additional Working Capital
Sources of additional working capital include the following:
 Existing cash reserves
 Profits (when you secure it as cash!)
 Payables (credit from suppliers)
 New equity or loans from shareholders
 Bank overdrafts or lines of credit
 Long-term loans
International journal on Textile Engineering and Processes
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January 2015
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 If you have insufficient working capital and try to increase sales, you can easily
over-stretch the financial resources of the business. This is called overtrading. Early
warning signs include:
 Pressure on existing cash
 Exceptional cash generating activities e.g. offering high discounts for early cash
payment
 Bank overdraft exceeds authorized limit
 Seeking greater overdrafts or lines of credit
 Part-paying suppliers or other creditors
 Paying bills in cash to secure additional supplies
 Management pre-occupation with surviving rather than managing
 Frequent short-term emergency requests to the bank (to help pay wages, pending
receipt of a cheque).
More businesses fail for lack of cash than for want of profit.
Handling Receivables (Debtors)
Cash flow can be significantly enhanced if the amounts owing to a business are collected
faster. Every business needs to know.... who owes them money.... how much is owed....
how long it is owing.... for what it is owed.
Slow payment has a crippling effect on business; in particular on small businesses who
can least afford it. If you don't manage debtors, they will begin to manage your
business as you will gradually lose control due to reduced cash flow and, of course, you
could experience an increased incidence of bad debt. The following measures will help
manage your debtors:
 Have the right mental attitude to the control of credit and make sure that it gets the
priority it deserves.
 Establish clear credit practices as a matter of company policy.
 Make sure that these practices are clearly understood by staff, suppliers and
customers.
 Be professional when accepting new accounts, and especially larger ones.
 Check out each customer thoroughly before you offer credit. Use credit agencies,
bank references, industry sources etc.
 Establish credit limits for each customer... and stick to them.
 Continuously review these limits when you suspect tough times are coming or if
operating in a volatile sector.
 Keep very close to your larger customers.
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January 2015
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 Invoice promptly and clearly.
 Consider charging penalties on overdue accounts.
 Consider accepting credit /debit cards as a payment option.
 Monitor your debtor balances and ageing schedules, and don't let any debts get too
large or too old.
Recognize that the longer someone owes you, the greater the chance you will never get
paid. If the average age of your debtors is getting longer, or is already very long, you
may need to look for the following possible defects:
 weak credit judgment
 poor collection procedures
 lax enforcement of credit terms
 slow issue of invoices or statements
 errors in invoices or statements
 customer dissatisfaction.
Debtors due over 90 days (unless within agreed credit terms) should generally demand
immediate attention. Look for the warning signs of a future bad debt. For example.........
 longer credit terms taken with approval, particularly for smaller orders
 use of post-dated checks by debtors who normally settle within agreed terms
 evidence of customers switching to additional suppliers for the same goods
 new customers who are reluctant to give credit references
 receiving part payments from debtors.
Profits only come from paid sales.
The act of collecting money is one which most people dislike for many reasons and
therefore put on the long finger because they convince themselves there is something
more urgent or important that demands their attention now. There is nothing more
important than getting paid for your product or service. A customer who does not
pay is not a customer. Here are a few ideas that may help you in collecting money from
debtors:
• Develop appropriate procedures for handling late payments.
• Track and pursue late payers.
• Get external help if your own efforts fail.
• Don't feel guilty asking for money.... it’s yours and you are entitled to it.
• Make that call now. And keep asking until you get some satisfaction.
• In difficult circumstances, take what you can now and agree terms for the remainder.
It lessens the problem.
• When asking for your money, be hard on the issue - but soft on the person. Don't
give the debtor any excuses for not paying.
International journal on Textile Engineering and Processes
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January 2015
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• Make it your objective is to get the money - not to score points or get even.
Late payments erode profits and can lead to bad debts.
Managing Payables (Creditors)
Creditors are a vital part of effective cash management and should be managed carefully
to enhance the cash position.
Purchasing initiates cash outflows and an over-zealous purchasing function can create
liquidity problems. Consider the following:
• Who authorizes purchasing in your company - is it tightly managed or spread among
a number of (junior) people?
• Are purchase quantities geared to demand forecasts?
• Do you use order quantities which take account of stock-holding and purchasing
costs?
• Do you know the cost to the company of carrying stock?
• Do you have alternative sources of supply? If not, get quotes from major suppliers
and shop around for the best discounts, credit terms, and reduce dependence on a
single supplier.
• How many of your suppliers have a returns policy?
• Are you in a position to pass on cost increases quickly through price increases to
your customers?
• If a supplier of goods or services lets you down can you charge back the cost of the
delay?
• Can you arrange (with confidence!) to have delivery of supplies staggered or on a
just-in-time basis?
There is an old adage in business that if you can buy well then you can sell well.
Management of your creditors and suppliers is just as important as the management of
your debtors. It is important to look after your creditors - slow payment by you may
create ill-feeling and can signal that your company is inefficient (or in trouble!).
Remember, a good supplier is someone who will work with you to enhance the future
viability and profitability of your company.
Inventory Management
Managing inventory is a juggling act. Excessive stocks can place a heavy burden on the
cash resources of a business. Insufficient stocks can result in lost sales, delays for
customers etc.
International journal on Textile Engineering and Processes
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January 2015
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The key is to know how quickly your overall stock is moving or, put another way, how
long each item of stock sit on shelves before being sold. Obviously, average stock-
holding periods will be influenced by the nature of the business. For example, a fresh
vegetable shop might turn over its entire stock every few days while a motor factor
would be much slower as it may carry a wide range of rarely-used spare parts in case
somebody needs them.
Nowadays, many large manufacturers operate on a just-in-time (JIT) basis whereby all
the components to be assembled on a particular today, arrive at the factory early that
morning, no earlier - no later. This helps to minimize manufacturing costs as JIT stocks
take up little space, minimize stock-holding and virtually eliminate the risks of obsolete
or damaged stock. Because JIT manufacturers hold stock for a very short time, they are
able to conserve substantial cash. JIT is a good model to strive for as it embraces all the
principles of prudent stock management.
The key issue for a business is to identify the fast and slow stock movers with the
objectives of establishing optimum stock levels for each category and, thereby, minimize
the cash tied up in stocks. Factors to be considered when determining optimum stock
levels include:
• What are the projected sales of each product?
• How widely available are raw materials, components etc.?
• How long does it take for delivery by suppliers?
• Can you remove slow movers from your product range without compromising best
sellers?
• Remember that stock sitting on shelves for long periods of time ties up money which
is not working for you. For better stock control, try the following:
• Review the effectiveness of existing purchasing and inventory systems.
• Know the stock turn for all major items of inventory.
• Apply tight controls to the significant few items and simplify controls for the trivial
many.
• Sell off outdated or slow moving merchandise - it gets more difficult to sell the
longer you keep it.
• Consider having part of your product outsourced to another manufacturer rather than
make it yourself.
• Review your security procedures to ensure that no stock "is going out the back
door!”
• Higher than necessary stock levels tie up cash and cost more in insurance,
accommodation costs and interest charges.
Working Capital Management – The New Approach
International journal on Textile Engineering and Processes
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January 2015
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Working Capital Management is concerned with the management of the Current Assets
and Current Liabilities and the interrelation that exists between them, so to minimize the
risk of insolvency and to maximize the return on assets. The ultimate objective of
working capital management is to ensure that a firm is able to continue its operations and
that it has sufficient ability to satisfy both maturing short term debt and upcoming
operational expenses. Working capital management calls for addressing two basic issues
how much of current assets an organization should hold and how to finance the
investment in them. In the present scenario some companies are using negative working
capital and getting a good amount of profits and good return on capital also. Earlier
negative working capital is considered as a risk of insolvency of the organizations but at
present negative working capital is a sign of managerial efficiency in a business.
Earlier it was considered that the companies should avoid under-investment in working
capital if they wanted higher profits margins.
Negative working capital is a reverse situation as compared to normal working capital. It
is a situation in which current assets are lower as compared to current liabilities. A
negative working capital is an indication of managerial efficiency in a business with low
inventory and account receivables. This happens because customer pays in advance and
so quickly, the business enjoys cash transactions; products are delivered and sold to the
customer before the company even pays their suppliers and creditors. Negative Working
capital doesn't always mean bad financial condition; it indicates that most of the day to
day activities are funded by customers rather than company’s own working capital. Some
latest examples are movie theaters - customers are paying first and distributors are
normally paid later on; Schools/ educational institutions- fees paid in advance by the
students annually, whereas faculties are getting salary after one month. When an
organisation uses supplier’s credit and customers' advance to fulfill their day to day
needs, it leads to a situation of lower or negative working capital. Banks, financial
institutions, distributors, retailers with cash business or advance payment contract have
negative working capital.
Normally, when we analyse working capital, it always refers to normal or positive
working capital (excess or current assets over current liabilities). However, there are
certain situations in which working capital is in negative form (excess of current
liabilities over current assets). In that situation, how can a company manage liquidity
with the negative working capital? In modern business, the concept of negative working
capital is significant for the following reasons;
• It indicates operational efficiency of a corporate. That means without having or with
low current assets the firm is managing day to day operations in an efficient manner.
Eventually, it reduces cost of working capital and maximum earnings for the
shareholders, which is the ultimate goal of the financial management.
International journal on Textile Engineering and Processes
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January 2015
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• Concept of negative working capital is important to analyse liquidity position of
corporate. When current assets are lower than current liabilities, what about the liquidity
position of the corporate, how are they discharging current obligations in theshort period.
Traditionally, liquidity ratios are the measurement of liquidity of a firm with the ideal
standard of 2:1. Negative working capital indicates lower cost of working capital
(another way is higher profitability), but at the same time, it indicates poor liquidity
(worried situation for the creditors, etc.) or we can say company is overburdened with
current liabilities, which is not good for any situation (specially in a period of recession,
etc).
• Another important impact of negative working capital is cash recovery or realisation
situation. Negative working capital indicates quick realization of cash recourses
(conversion of debtors in to cash) or one can say working capital cycle is shorter (for a
days or maybe less than that). At the same time, payable policy of the company is to take
longer time for payment against creditor. It indicates significant variations in the credit
policy towards suppliers and customers.
To analyse, explain and focus on all these situations, a study of negative working capital
and its impact on liquidity, profit earning capacity and overall impact on shareholders’
value creation is important in the contemporary scenario. To understand how negative
working capital works, let us analyse Warner Brothers / Wal-Mart situation. When Wal-
Mart ordered the 500,000 copies of a DVD, they were supposed to pay Warner Brothers
within 30 days. What if by the sixth or seventh day, Wal-Mart had already put the DVDs
on the shelves of its stores across the country? By the twentieth day, they may have sold
all of the DVDs. In the end, Wal-Mart received the DVDs, shipped them to its stores, and
sold them to the customer (making a profit in the process), all before they had paid
Warner Brothers! If Wal-Mart can continue to do this with all of its suppliers, it doesn't
really need to have enough cash on hand to pay all of its accounts payable. As long as the
transactions are timed right, they can pay each bill as it comes due, maximizing their
efficiency.
There are many ways to create negative working capital. Most important method is to
minimise the size of current assets with favorable contract and agreement to the suppliers
and other parties (to delay payments) and the same time, try to minimise credit facilities
or maximise cash based business (collection of cash before the disbursement of actual
payments to the various parties). When maximum customers are paying in advance, low
or negative working capital is created. Another way to minimise the size of current assets
is to adopt efficient collection method or brand oriented collection policy. Many
companies are trying to minimise their cash resources with efficient utilisation of funds.
Some companies are effectively using ERP system involving trade partners in planning
International journal on Textile Engineering and Processes
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January 2015
Copyright@CTF- MPSTME Page 15
and monitoring working capital items to reduce the level of working capital. Efficient
cash collection and inventory management system provides an opportunity to run
business with the negative working capital, because most of the suppliers are granting 30
days credit in general. Companies who are able to operate and maintain with negative
working capital, have advantages to receive funds without cost as a form of credit from
their suppliers which will enhance ROI in a significant manner. However, non-
availability of liquid resources is not a good situation at any time (especially in the stage
of growth and boom). Hence, the question arises that having negative working capital is
good for an organization or not and if a company is earning profit continuously with
having negative working capital, can we say that it is a sign of managerial efficiency or
there might be the chances of possible bankruptcy of the company?
References
[1]. Arora, A. (2013): “Negative Working Capital and its Impact on Profitability” The
Management Accountant, March 2013.
[2]. Banerjee, S. (2000): "Financial management". S.Chand and company, New Delhi .
[3]. Bhalla, V. (1997): "Financial management and policy", Anmol publications
Ist edition,New Delhi .
[4]. Khan and Jain(2004): "Financial Management", Tata Mcgraw Hill publishing
company, New Delhi 4th edition .
[5]. Panigrahi, Ashok Kumar, Negative Working Capital and Profitability: An Empirical
Analysis of Indian Cement Companies (June 1, 2013). International Journal of
Research in Commerce & Management, Volume 4, No. 6, June 2013. Available at
SSRN: http://ssrn.com/abstract=2342457
[6]. Rustagi, R. (2000): "Financial Management, theory, concept and problems", second
edition pp860 Galgotia Publishing Company, New Delhi (2000).
[7]. Raheman A and Nasr M (2007), “Working Capital Management and Profitability:
Case of Pakistani Firms”, International Review of Business Research, Vol. 3, No. 2,
pp. 275–296.
[8]. Sur, D. (1997): “Working capital management in Colgate Palmolive (India) Ltd. -A
case study", The Management Accountant, November.
[9]. Singh, P. 2012, “Negative Working Capital and Indian Corporates – A Conceptual
Analysis” The Chartered Accountant, Dec. 2012.
[10]. Walker E.W. (1974): "Essentials of Financial Management", New Delhi,
Prentice Hall of India Pvt. Ltd.
[11]. http://www.planware.org/workingcapital.htm
International journal on Textile Engineering and Processes
Volume 1, Issue 1,
January 2015
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SPINNING TECHNOLOGY & PRACTICES, MEETS INTERNATIONAL
QUALITY REQUIREMENT OF YARN FOR TERRY TOWEL PRODUCTION.
Prof. Abdulsalam. A. Bagwan, CTF, MPSTME
Abstract
As per as Indian textile industries are concerned the production of international quality of
yarn considered to be big task, and only few mill can produce such type of yarn. This
reflected on performance of industries and export side. In present investigation, Two
methods described by the P Balsubramanian the first method followed by considering
Uster standards while analyzing yarn qualities but this method required very quality of
raw material which is very expensive to produce yarn quality which leads reduce
performance of exports in international market. While in Second methodology P
Subramanian suggested to consider buyer specification ,Precautionary handling of
material in post spinning process and systems to be followed while producing export
yarn ,Work practices to be avoided during preparation of the export quality yarn, by
using online quality systems like sliver data, Ring data ,Cone data systems equipped on
machine which leads improve spinner judgment and easy to check material 100% and
finally meet export or international quality requirement.
Keywords: International yarn quality, RKm, Thick and thin imperfection, yarn coefficient of
variation, Buyers specification, Work practices, systems.
Introduction
Yarn quality requirement is changing every day. Quality requirement is different for
different end uses and it is different for different customers. But it is difficult to produce
a good quality yarn with a minimum deviation. Amongst the other factors machine and
process parameter plays major role in deciding upon product quality and productivity. It
was felt that standardization of machine and process parameters along with correct work
practices would help to improve upon quality and productivity.
Quality of yarn should be at least within 25% Uster which means the quality is among
the best 25% of the mills in the world. Normally shuttles weaving machine works three
to four times faster and if the quality of warp remain same ,warp break will increase three
International journal on Textile Engineering and Processes
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January 2015
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to four times resulting in low production. Yarn should be more even and following
parameter of the yarn are critically reviewed i.e. C.V. of Count, Single yarn strength,
C.V. of Single yarn strength, Imperfection per 1000 meters such as thick place, thin
place, and neps. Yarn requirements in terms of strength, uniformity and freedom from
imperfections are dependent on two considerations: the performance & appearance
requirements of the cloth, and the level of productivity which is expected of the
operatives. As the first consideration does not constitute a severe constraint, it is only
necessary to take account of the second one. This essentially involves achievement of the
most economic balance between labour costs and machine utilization factor. No
problems arise in the case of auto looms /Unconventional: the weaver continues to tend
only one loom whatever quality of yarn is provided as his productivity should not fall
substantially if yarn quality is lowered. Fall in productivity - in comparison with
productivity achieved with perfect yarn - should not exceed 20% if the lowest quality
yarn were used.
The use of low quality yarns inevitably leads to higher breakage rates and consequently,
to an increase in the number of operative hours needed to produce a given quantity of
cloth. However, the type of loom used does not have a first order effect on the amount of
time spent in the repair of a weaving break, either of warp or weft. At the lowest level of
yarn quality - consistent with fabrics covered by this memorandum - one weaver might
reasonably be expected to tend two non-automatic power looms or four automatic looms.
With very well prepared yarn of the highest quality, one weaver could tend six non-
automatics or up to sixty automatic looms. Thus, the labour-saving potential of the
automatic looms is much more severely curtailed by the use of low quality yarn than is
the case with non-automatic looms. This does not necessarily mean that automatic looms
require better yarns, or that it is less economic to use automatic looms in conjunction
with low quality yarns. The basic consideration is that the amount of labour needed is
reduced when the quality of yarn is raised regardless of the type of loom. Thus, in high
wage cost countries, weaving becomes profitable only if yarn quality is high.
Furthermore, as the higher capital cost of automatic looms is justified by the high wages,
it is usual for high quality yarns to be used in conjunction with automatic weft
replenishment.
Yarns which are used in Towels:
In a terry towel there are four groups of yarn. These four groups are the pile warp,
ground warp, weft (filling), and border weft.
Pile Warp:
One hundred percent cotton yarns, carded or combed, in sizes of 16/1, 20/1 Ne counts,
240-255 turns/meter twist, are most commonly used. While towels of the fashion type are
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mainly piece dyed or printed. In general bulkier and absorbent yarns are used for both
types of towels. Rotor spun yarns are also used in pile warps low twist cotton.
Ground Warp:
Carded yarns of 20/2, or 24/2 Ne count with 550 turns/meter twist, and of 100% cotton
are commonly used for ground warp ends. Two ply yarns are preferred because the
ground warps ends have the highest tension during weaving. It is common to use a yarn
of cotton/polyester blend for greater strength. Rotor spun yarns are also used in ground
warps.
Weft: Carded yarns of 16/1, or 20/1 Ne counts with 240 – 255 turns/meter twist, 100%
cotton are used usually for weft or filling picks. Rotor spun yarns are also used in wefts.
Border Weft:
Premium or high end hand towels have complex borders with fancy weaves and use a
very wide range of filling yarns. Decorative, shiny and bulky yarns of rayon, viscose,
polyester, chenille, or mercerized cotton are used at different yarn sizes. Novelty types of
yarns may be used as a feature of design
Spinning Technology required for terry towel product:
The cotton yarn used in terry towel are produced by ring spinning technology or open
end spinning technology which are specially developed for producing warp pile yarn for
terry towel.
Ring Spinning:
The principle of ring spinning is first mixing or blending the fibers, opening them and
arranging as much as possible parallel to each other .Second is to give the fibers a twist
in order to increase the friction forces between fiber and assure they stay as yarn and
draw them to the desire size. These are achieved in several steps as follows.
Blow room and Carding OR Prior process:
All staple fibers are processed through blow room and carding ,After opening of the
cotton loose fiber goes in to the carding machine ,Here Fine flats wires on revolving
cylinders pull the fibers apart, remove adherence of waste which is associated with
cotton fibers and begin to arrange the fiber enough that they can be spun in to yarn. Fiber
emerges from carding in the fine web, which is gathered together in to loose, fine web
called as sliver. After carding, fiber is taken through a number of stages to become yarn.
Combing:
An extra process is introduced called combing for high quality yarns. The purposes of
combing are to 1) Remove Hooks 2) Remove short fiber 3) Improve fiber orientation.
Drawing (Drafting) and doubling:
This is process of running slivers between set of rollers, each moving faster than ones
before, which draw out or draft a number of slivers to the thickness of one: this process is
repeated until the fibers are well mixed.
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Speed frame:
Speed frame draws the sliver out to a strand about the size of pencil, called roving are
carried by the traveler around the edge of the ring, inside which is faster rotating spindle.
Spinning:
During spinning the roving is drawn out to yarn size and given considerable high twist to
become yarn. In ring spinning, twist is inserted as fibers from roving are carried by the
traveler around the edge of the ring, inside which is faster rotating spindle.
Carded, combed, open end, low twist yarn for terry towel:
Carded yarn has fuzzy appearance and loftier than combed yarn. Fabrics made from
carded yarn have more hairy surface and will neps more than fabrics of combed yarn.
Combing removes any shorter fiber and arranges the remaining lowest fibers more or less
a parallel to each other. During combing about 15% further weight is lost combed sliver
has silkier appearance.
Open end yarn : The basic principle of open-end spinning is sliver are feeding through
feed roller ,opening by high speed revolving opening roller and fibers feed through
transport tube and deposited on surface of rotor and high speed rotor inserted twist to
fiber strand yarn withdraw through tube and wound on winding roller. The open end yarn
has following properties bulkier, less strength compare to Ring yarn ,less U %, due to
these properties it can be used for pile yarn in terry products.
Low twist yarn:
The basic difference between low twist and the other cotton yarn is fiber. While ring
spun towel use a combination of long and short staple cotton fiber, low twist must be
constructed only from loner staple cotton yarn. After the fiber is made in to low twist
yarn, it must be wound with polyvinyl alcohol(PVA) yarn to keep the cotton intact
without the need for twisting . PVA dissolved during dyeing and yarn obtained with
extremely low twist yarn. This type of yarn is called as low twist, zero twist, no twist
yarn which can used for terry products.
Quality evaluation methods:
P Balsubramanian suggested two methods method, first method followed by considering
Uster standards while analyzing yarn qualities, and meet international standards.
Second methodology P Subramanian suggested to consider buyer specification
,Precautionary handling of material in post spinning process and systems to be followed
while producing export yarn ,Work practices to be avoided during preparation of the
export quality yarn, by using online quality systems like sliver data, Ring data ,Cone
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data systems equipped on machine which leads improve spinner judgment and easy to
check material 100% and finally meet export or international quality requirement.
International quality:
Most of the spinners under impression that, international quality means that all yarn
quality specification should be either equal to or better than uster 25% value most of
manufacturer try hard to attain international quality level by going for good quality of
raw material at higher cost or sacrificing productivity at critical stages in production line.
But as mentioned in uster statistics, A yarn whose mean value for all yarn characteristic
lie below uster 25% line value of uster statistics is seldom encountered and if so, it must
refer to yarn from expensive and special raw material. Practical experience has shown
that yarn need not necessarily be perfect in terms of all characteristics, it must not
advisable meet statistics for all quality parameter but it is more important to meet buyer
specifications.
Specification of buyer:
In export market buyer specify the quality requirement level, generally following
parameters are specified.
 Lea count and its Coefficient of variation
 Rkm and its Coefficient of variation.
 U% with imperfections
 ASTM appearance grade
 TPI variation.
Beside the above the buyer specify whether yarn should necessarily be electronically
cleared and spliced and I case of double yarn weather it should be twisted on two for one
twister. Occasionally some buyer specifies total number of objectionable fault as
measured by classimat.
Intrinsic quality requirements:
Meeting the specification is one part of yarn quality and the other part which is more
important is the performance of the yarn on the buyers machinery and ultimate quality of
his end product is the yarn should withstand various parameter, processing condition and
produce defect free product/yarn. Therefore spinner should aware of the end use product
which is supplying to his customer and Ultimate quality index is customer satisfaction
rather than yarn specification.
Yarn quality evaluation:
Many mills yarn evaluated for various quality characteristic like count strength and their
variability’s, U% and imperfection, yarn appearances etc at ring frame stages. Only few
mills evaluate yarn at cone stage , In the most of the mills post spinning operation were
neglected both in terms of housekeeping renovation, modernization which leads to
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deteriorate the yarn qualities. In order to improve the quality of the yarn following
quality evaluations in post spinning process were suggested.
 Each cone should be checked physically, proper package density, and contaminations
free.
 Rewinding test should be conducted at higher speed particularly for export yarn i.e.
1000 mtr/min. Record breaks should be at the most one per lakh meter. At least 10
lakh meters should be evaluated at classimat.
 Objectionable fault should be less than 2 per lakh meter.
 Quality of splicer and knotter should be checked al least once in week.
 Cone weight variation should be minimized (+-50gms)
 Yarn test, should be evaluated on high volume testing
System and practices followed in export unit
ForMaterial identification:
In order to avoid mixing of two different counts, following system suggested for material
identification.
 Tinting should not used to identify the material.
 Different colored card and draw frame cans used to identify the mixing
 Different colored ring and roving bobbins were use to identify the material.
 Cone with different colored sticker were use to identify the material.
Cotton processing practices:
The effort are made to make material more uniform
 Arrange the card at draw frame creel in such manner that all card equally
represented.
 Arrange breaker cans in row form and feed finisher cans in column form.
 Use block creeling system for speed frame and ring frame.
Work Practices
Most of the yarn faults in final yarn observed due poor work practices which leads to
deteriorate yarn qualities .In order to avoid bad practices and ensure the good qualities
following work practices followed by worker strictly avoided.
 Over end piecing at ring frame never allowed.
 The ring frame as well as roving creel piecing should be totally discouraged.
 In draw frame creel piecing should be done carefully, ensure it does not result in long
thick place.
 Worker should be aware of poor qualities.
 A continuous training scheme should be provided for worker.
Quality Assurances:
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In order to obtain good quality of yarn, spinners should implement online system on
machine such as ring data, sliver data, cone data with these systems spinners in position
to check 100% of material produced.
Conclusions
Present investigation reveals that, two methodology were given to obtain quality First
method required rich cotton quality parameter and even sacrificing production ,quality
increase stoppages one can difficult to meet international quality standards which was
deterioration performances of exports.
In Second methods, in order to obtained international qualities in terry yarn following
area is to be concentrated.
 Concentrate on specification of buyers
 Take necessary precautions while producing yarn
 Yarn qualities & its evaluation
 Avoid bad working practices
 Select the online technologies, which have online monitoring systems in order check
the material 100%.
By taking simple precautions during spinning, gives improvements in the performance
export and Second method is quite easy to understandable and installable in Textile
industries.
Acknowledgement:
The authors acknowledged valuable support received from The Director, NMIMS,
Associated Dean MPSTME Textile Technology, The Principal, Center for Textile
Functions MPSTME Dhule, District Dhule -425405
A ready reference copy of USTER STATISTICS enclosed with this study, it
contents, yarn properties evaluated for different count used in Weaving.
REFERENCES
[1]. Uster statistics (Uster Zellwger Ltd.) 1989 Norms.
[2]. Balsubramanian P., Control of winding parameter to reduce Neps and yarn
faults Paper presented at 16 th ATIRA Technological conference Ahmadabad 24 – 25
April 1992.
[3]. Kanthimathinathan A. & Chellamani P., Measure to produce yarn meeting
international quality standard, Paper presented at 32nd
Joint technological conference of
ATRA,BTRA,NITRA,SITRA Ahmadabad June -1991.
[4]. Venketrayan K., A critical look at specification of yarn for export vis a vis
Indian performance , Paper presented at 32nd
Joint Technological Conference of
ATRA,BTRA,NITRA,SITRA Ahmadabad June -1991.
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[5]. Güngör Durur, Eren Öner, Dokuz Eylül , The Comfort Properties of the Terry
Towels Made of Cotton and Polypropylene Yarns Journal of Engineered Fibers and
Fabrics Volume 8, Issue 2 – 2013 ,http://www.jeffjournal.org.
Terry Towels – Classification, Designing & Manufacturing Technology
Prof. Tushar C. Patil, CTF, MPSTME
Abstract:
Terry towels are often very complex with yarns of different types and colors, in
combination with various loop pile and flat structures. Towels are subject to changing
fashions, and the market is constantly demanding new designs with improved fabric
characteristics important to the consumer such as softness and absorbency. In satisfying
these requirements, the content and structure of terry towels are critical decisions
determining the resulting quality. This review of the terry classification, designing and
production will be of interest to academicians and industry personnel as a basis for
understanding the steps in producing a high quality woven terry fabric.
Introduction - History of terry weaving:
The name “terry” comes from the French word “tirer” which means to pull out, referring
to the pile loops which were pulled out by hand to make absorbent traditional Turkish
toweling. Latin “vellus”, meaning hair, has the derivation “velour”, which is the toweling
with cut loops. In research conducted on terry weaving by the Manchester Textile
Institute, it was concluded that original terry weaving was likely the result of defective
weaving. The research indicates that this development occurred in Turkey, probably in
Bursa City, one of the major traditional textile centers in Turkey. Terry weaving
construction is considered a later development in the evolution of woven fabrics. Terry
toweling is still known as "Turk Fabric", "Turkish Toweling" or "Turkish Terry"
Terry pile is a class of warp pile structures also known as the Turkish toweling in which
certain warp ends are made to form loops on the surface of the fabric. Only one series of
weft threads are used, whereas the warp consist of two series of threads namely ground
warp produces ground cloth with the weft from which the loops formed by the pile warp
and, the firm foundation structure terry cloth is really a combination of two cloths.
Terry towels are used for bathing purpose because of their water absorption properties.
Piles are formed on one or both sides by the variable periodic movement of the reed or
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cloth fell position, mostly over three picks. Figure shows the pile formation in terry
fabrics with the three-pick principle. According to this principle, the first two picks are
beaten up by the short movement of the reed some distance before the cloth fell position.
In the third pick, the reed makes an exact movement, and all three picks are carried up to
the cloth fell position. During this movement, the three picks slide between the ground
warp yarns. The pile warp yarns move forward together with three picks and take on the
pile form. The distance’s’ shown in Figure 1 corresponds to the pile length. It can be
adjusted on terry weaving machines to obtain different pile heights. If piles are to be
formed on the surface of a terry fabric, the pile warp yarns must be over the third and
first picks; similarly, if the piles are too formed on the back side of a terry fabric, then the
pile warps must be under the third and first picks. Terry fabrics must be produced at a
certain weight per square meter, using mostly100% cotton yarns as weft-, ground- and
pile warp yarns. Certain yarn counts, such as Ne20/2, Ne24/2, Ne16/1 1), and warp
density are used by factories producing terry fabrics. After the ground and pile warp
yarns are prepared and drafted as one ground and one pile warp yarn.
Parts of terry towel:
These are the pile area, fringes, beginning and end part, selvedge, border. Every towel
does not have to contain all of these parts. The pile area is considered the toweling part
of the towel. Fringes are tied or an untied tasseled part of ground warps and pile warps
which are left unwoven at the beginning and the end edges of the towel. The beginning
and end sections are the tightly woven areas of a towel which come before or after the
pile fabric part and prevent this pile area from unraveling. They are woven without pile
loops, in a flat weave construction. The selvedge contains fewer number of warp end s
than the pile area, for example 90 comparing to 4000 total warp ends, woven without pile
as a flat weave and has the purpose to reinforce the towel sides
Basics of terry weaving:
The principle of terry weaving is originated in France in 1841 by John Bright. Terry
cloth is defined as ‘a warp pile fabric having un-cut loops on both the sides. A fabric
made from ground and pile is in the form of loops such as in bath towels and bath mats.
Among pile fabrics, terry fabrics are woven by a special weaving "terry motion". Figure
shows the cross-section of pile formation for 3-pick terry; in which two picks are first
beaten up to a determined distance from the fabric fell. Third pick is then beaten up
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against the fell together with the two preceding picks. Weft thereby slips along tensioned
ground warps. The pile warp ends now form new piles.
Figure – Cross-section of pile formation for 3-pick terry
Figure – Terry Pile Structure
Classification of Terry Towels:
The classification of towels can be made according to weight, production, and pile
presence on fabric surfaces, pile formation, pile structure, and finishing. These
classifications are shown in Table given below.
In velour towels pile loops on one side of the fabric are sheared in order to give a smooth
cut velvet appearance. Uncut loops of the fabric are sheared in order to give a give the
best absorbency, whereas velour gives a luxurious velvety hand. A towel with appliqués
is embellished with additional pieces of decorative fabric in a motif which is stitched
onto the towel Two-pick terry towels which were woven for bathrobe end-use have lost
their importance today due to instability of the loops. Five or more pick terry towels are
rarely produced because they need to be beaten for each pile twice. They need to be
beaten for each pile twice. And four-pick terry towels. As one sided pile toweling has
low water absorbing capacity, it is only used for special purposes such as a limited
number of bathrobes. Furthermore weaving one sided pile terry with few or no defects is
difficult. In two sided pile terry both sides are covered with pile, whereas all the
irregularities are visible in one sided terry fabric as one side is bare without pile. Towels
are divided into groups according to end use and size as bath towels, hand towels, face
towels, fingertip towels, kitchen towels and washcloths
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Terry Designing:
Terry towels are woven as 2, 3, 4, 5 or more pick terry weaves. The most common type
is 3-pick terry toweling. The cross section of a toweling through the Warps are divided
into two systems as shown in Figure 3, pile warps and ground warps, whereas wefts
consist of only one system. In basic Turkish Toweling, front side and back side pile
warps and 1st and 2nd ground warp ends form a 2/1 rib weave with each other. The rib
weaves which is formed by the pile warps is one pick ahead of the rib weave which is
formed by ground warp ends. Warps are ordered throughout the fabric width 1:1 or 2:2
piles and ground warps. In 1:1 warp order each ground warp end is followed by a pile
warp end while in 2:2 warp order each two ground warp ends are followed by two pile
warp ends. In Figures 3a and 3b, the weave notation of 3 weft pile basic Turkish
toweling is given in 1:1 and 2:2 warp orders
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As is seen from the weave diagrams in Figures a and b shown below, the shedding of the
ground warps are not synchronized with that of the pile warps. By this, the number of
interlacing throughout the warp increases, and this strengthens the fabric. As it has been
mentioned before terry towels can have pile loops on one or both faces. Different types
of terry weave which have pile on one face and both faces
Terry fabrics are often very complex with different colored warp ends in combination
with loop patterns. They are subject to changing fashions, and the market is constantly
demanding new qualities and designs. The rapid development of electronics has enabled
fabric designers to produce completely different patterns. Via a servo motor, the beat-up
position for each pick, and, thus the type of terry and the pile height can be freely
programmed from one pick group to another. In this way nearly 200 different loose pick
distances, and hence the same number of pile heights, can be programmed in any order.
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For example, three- and four-pick terry and even fancy types of terry can be combined in
the same fabric. This gives the fabric designer a broad range of patterning options and
the weaving engineer the weaving structure for improving fabric performance, because
transition from one pattern element to the next can be woven with greater precision With
these capabilities, a new patterning method, called sculptured terry, has been developed.
At each full beat -up, two pile loops of different heights can be formed in the filling
direction. The secret of this method of pattern formation lies in the fact that two loose
pick groups formed at distances corresponding to the pile heights are beaten up to the
cloth fell together. For two short loops the pile yarns are woven into both loose pick
groups and for one large loop into the second loose pick group only. The greatest
challenge is to develop a basic weave which results in neat loops without excessive
friction between warp and filling at full beat -up. The solution is found in a special seven
pick weave combined with full beat -ups at the sixth and seventh pick. In this way, a
second pile height is also formed in filling direction, making sculptured patterning
possible by the difference in pile height in warp and filling direction. In Figure a terry
towel pattern which is produced with this technique is shown. A requirement for this
kind of pattern formation is a freely programmable sley traveling on a rapier weaving
machine. Microprocessor control allows the loose pick distance to be terry pattern
achieved by weaving two different heights of loops programmed easily and individually
for each pick. The loop formation system with full electronic control lets you alter the
height of the loop by accompanying the electronic weft ratio variator device on jacquard
looms to program different weft ratios like 3-pick terry, 4-pick terry and so. By this
method, different heights of loops can be achieved in the same shed.
Figure – Designing in terry weave
Terry Weaving:
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The production of terry fabrics is a complex process and is only possible on specially
equipped weaving machines. Three yarn systems are woven in the terry loom compared
to the two system types of traditional weaving: Ground warp, pile warp and weft. The
two warps are processed simultaneously: the ground warp, with tightly tensioned ends
and the pile warp with lightly tensioned ends. A special weaving method enables loops to
be handled with the lightly tensioned warp ends on the surface. Ground warps and pile
warps are unwound separately, warped onto two different section beams and sized
separately. The processes they undergo show some
Steps of Terry Weaving:
The components of an air- jet terry weaving machine are seen. The pile warp ends are let
off from the pile warp beam (2), guided through the measuring unit (3), then join with
ground warp ends which are let off from ground warp beam (1) and guided through the
whip roll. Next, the two warp systems are threaded through the drop wires, the headless,
reed and with the control of cloth take up (6) are wound onto cloth roll after weaving(7).
Positive controlled whip roll for ground warp (5) determines the length of ground warp
to be let off, while terry motion (4) assures integration among pile and ground warp let
off and cloth take up.
Figure – Terry weaving Machine
Mechanism of pile formation:
The formation of pile loops in terry weaving depends upon the creation of a gap between
the fell of cloth and two successive picks. The length of this gap can be altered and
adjusted according to the requirement of height of loops, to form this gap two succeeding
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picks are beaten up short of the true cloth fell forming a temporary false fell this
achieved by the terry motion.
In terry fabric manufacturing two sheets of warp threads run simultaneously of which
one is kept under normal tension and other is kept under loose tension. The threads
normal tension warp sheet are ground and threads of loose tension warp sheet are for pile
the sequence of operation during weaving for pile formation in 3- picking is given below
• Insertion of first pick as per the design with loose beating
• Allow a predetermined gap near the fell of the cloth
• Insertion of second pick following the first pick is loose beating
• Insertion of third pick with heavy beating and brings all the three pick to the fell
of the cloth
Pile formation by using this mechanism is based on the principle of a stable and precise
shifting of the beat-up point. Using this principle the fabric is shifted towards the reed by
means of a positively controlled movement of the whip roll 6 and a terry bar together
with the temples on the beat-up of the fast pick. The sturdy reed drive is free of play. It
provides the necessary precision for the beat-up of the group of picks.
A compact, simplified whip roll system with the warp stop motions arranged on two
separate levels improves handling and has a decisive influence on reducing broken ends.
Due to a drastic reduction in the number of mechanical components the amount of
maintenance required is reduced. With the help of electronics the precision of measuring
the Length of pile yarn is improved. This leads to a better fabric quality due to constant
pile height and fabric weight. The weaving process is so exact that precise mirrored
patterns are possible and velour weavers experience minimal shearing waste. The tension
of the ground and pile warps are detected by force sensors and electronically regulated.
In this way warp tension is kept uniform from full to the empty warp beam. To prevent
starting marks or pulling back of the pile loops the pile warp tension can be reduced
during machine standstill.
Figure - Mechanism of pile formation
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Conclusion:
Terry towel is one of the integrated products of the textiles. Besides the yarn quality and
the finishing parameters, designing and manufacturing techniques are also plays the vital
role in construction of quality parameters of terry towels. This review of the terry
characteristics, specifications, production, and performance will be of interest to
academicians and industry personnel as a basis for understanding the steps in producing a
high quality woven terry fabric.
References:
[1]. Patil Subhash J. 2006, Manufacturing of terry towels, Universal Pub. Corp.,
Mumbai,
[2]. Ramaswamy G. 1992Modernization of terry towel weaving, Textile Magazine,
Vol.33.
[3]. Nancy Powell, Nazire Deniz Yilmaz and Gungor Durur. The technology of terry
towel production.
[4]. Adnur,s. 2001, Handbook of weaving, Technomic Pub.co.Inc. Lancaster, PA,
USA.
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FIBRES USED IN TERRY TOWELS
Prof. Rajendra D. Parsi,
CTF, MPSTME
Abstract
In order to obtain better feel from the terry fabrics manufacturer required to use different
fiber in order to improve serviceability of fabric and better absorption properties of terry
fabric. In present situation, decentralized sector contributed to terry products, which
gives excess of terry towel production against market requirement and which reduces the
cost of terry products. In production of terry towel if manufacturer are concentrated on
type of fibers and type of finishes to be used in order to obtain better comfort properties,
quality and serviceability of terry fabric, which gives more satisfaction to the customer.
It was observed that customer who purchased terry towel from 100% cotton, which gives
very good serviceability and customer used that terry towel for long duration. Instead of
using that terry towel for long period manufacturer required to add such properties like
absorption, feel, and colorfastness properties so customer desire to purchase that terry
towel frequently and fabric recycle time should be reduced. If manufacturer are used
microfibers, Tencel fiber, bamboo fiber, Bamboo charcoal fibers then fabric recycled
time reduced and cost benefits to customers and finally customer able to purchase terry
fabric frequently. Cotton is the king of fiber, fabric produced from 100% cotton is quite
expensive but in the market on different trade names regenerated fibers are also available
which gives better hand feel properties than cotton. .If manufacturer are used these fibers
in the production of terry fabrics that would give better scope for terry products.
FIBERS USED IN TOWELS
Properties required in the terry towel are high absorbency, high wet strength, and ability
to dye well, good colorfastness wash-ability, soft hand, and hypoallergenic, low cost, and
easy availability. Yarns made of cotton fibres and blends can provide these properties
most effectively.
Cotton Fibers
Cotton fibres consist of the unicellular seed hairs of the bolls of the cotton plant, the
Gossyum plant the chemical composition of typical cotton fiber is as follows: 94.0% of
dry weight is cellulose, 1.3% is protein, 1.2% is pectic substance, 0.6% is wax, 1.2% is
ash and 4% is other substances. Absorbency refers to a cotton fabric's ability to remove
liquid water from the skin as in a towel. Cotton is hydrophilic; it wets easily, and can
hold much more water than synthetic fibres can. Cotton releases a considerable amount
of heat when absorbing moisture, but it dries slowly. It is not only the amount of water
held that is most important, but the water held that is most important, but from the body.
The size and distribution of the pores, and capillaries, between and within cotton fibres
are uniquely suited for this purpose. Wet strength is one of the crucial properties required
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in towels, as they are most likely to remain wet as compared to other home textiles.
Cotton is stable in water and its wet tenacity is higher than its dry tenacity. The
toughness and initial modulus of cotton are lower compared to hemp fibres, whereas its
flexibility and its elastic recovery are higher. Cotton is a natural fiber and considered
hypoallergenic. This means cotton has a low tendency to cause allergic reactions. It also
does not cause skin irritation and can be sterilized. The microbial resistance of cotton is
low, but the fibres are highly resistant to moth and beetle damage. The microbial
resistance can be improved by antimicrobial finishing. Cotton uses in the medical
institutional area are well known for their hypoallergenic characteristic and sterilize-
ability. Cotton fabrics are often recommended for persons having skin allergies. Cotton
sanitary products and cosmetic aids are promoted for their health benefits. Cotton towels,
bedding and baby clothes have all been promoted on the basis of the hypoallergenic
nature of cotton. Moreover cotton’s resistance to high temperatures of water makes
cotton easy to be cleaned as it can be boiled. It has easy availability as it is grown in
more than seventy countries of the world. One other reason cotton is used for toweling is
it is the most economical fiber among the natural fibres Shorter staple cotton fibres are
generally used in towels because fine yarn counts are not required. The cotton fibres
which are used in towels have relatively low fiber length, relatively low fiber strength,
relatively low maturity ratio. The micronaire range can be said to be the middle range.
Other fibres:-
More and more towels are being produced from fibres other than cotton such as Modal®,
bamboo, seaweed, Lyocel® and now soybean, corn and other Tri-blend bamboo, silk and
cotton blend is also beginning to be used in towels. Bamboo may be the next premium
fiber other than high quality cotton fibres. Such as Egyptian, Pima and Supima qualities,
bamboo can be used in towels because of its softness, luster, antibacterial properties and
greater absorbency. However, it has yet to gain acceptance on a large scale. Flax is also
among the natural hydrophilic fibres of cellulose like cotton. The fiber is termed flax,
while the fabric made of flax it is called linen. Flax has better dry strength than cotton,
and like cotton it gets 25% stronger when wet. It absorbs more moisture, and it wicks. It
is longer, smoother, and more lustrous than cotton. However it is not used commonly in
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towels as it has been limited in supply and it is expensive because of the long processing
and intense labor it needs to be turned into a yarn although uncommon, flax towels have
a place in the specialty market. In the year place 2004, totally 1,949,421 flax towels were
in the specialty market. In the year imported to the U.S., which stands for 0.35% of the
total towel import of the U.S. Micro-fiber towels are also pushing into the ultra-
touch/high absorbency arena with a manmade synthetic product constructed primarily
from a blend of polyester and nylon with polyamide. Through a chemical process, the
polyester, nylon and the polyamide are bonded. The result is a cloth that goes through
another process to split its fiber into smaller “micro” fibres, creating tiny channels. Micro
fiber towels can absorb 5 to 7 times their weight in water. Like cotton, micro- fiber
towels are available in various colors and weaves, such as waffle, cut terry and loop
terry, with various patterns and in various weights. The heavier the micro- fiber towel,
the more water it can absorb. Compared to ring spun cotton, micro-fiber is said to be
more absorbent. Several companies are experimenting in combining micro-fiber with
cotton to make it softer, give a better hand and perhaps make it more appealing to those
who are unsure about having a synthetic towel product.
MODIFIED FIBERS, USED FOR TERRY TOWEL
Methods for the weaving and wet preparation of terry pile fabric for use in the production
of terry towels are reviewed. Emphasis is given to new methods for meeting special
requirements imposed by choice of style, type of fiber used and the size of the towels.
The use of polyester fibers in the ground section of toweling requires modified scouring
techniques involving the use of special sizing materials; i.e., polyvinyl alcohol. Like
polyester different fibers were used in the production of terry towel product so as to
reduce the cost and recycle time of the products. Some of the advanced fibers which are
using in terry towel industries, they are given below.
Microfiber for terry products:
Microfiber consists of very fine threads of polyester and polyamide (nylon) that combine
to form a single thread. Microfibers are so thin (100 times thinner than a single strand of
human hair) that when they are woven together they create a surface area 40 times more
than that of a regular fiber – creating an expanded surface area with dramatically
enhanced absorbing power due to the capillary action of the fine threads. Microfiber is
traditionally defined as a fiber with a denier of less than one. Denier is a measure of
thinness of fiber and is the weight in grams of a continuous fiber of 9,000 meters.
As each microfiber strand may be smaller than the bacteria it is attracting, it is able to
penetrate microscopic particles of dirt and grease on a surface. Split microfiber possesses
numerous wedges instead of the rounded surfaces on ordinary cloth, sweeping
underneath the particles and trapping them inside. In addition, the rounded fibers on most
cloths only push the dirt around, whereas the wedge-shaped microfibers grab the
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particles of dirt and pull the dirt into its dense internal structure. Furthermore, chemicals
only become necessary as a disinfectant, as the bonding agent is no longer necessary to
keep the dirt on the fiber.
Microfiber has two polymers. Polyester is lyophilic, or has an affinity to oil, so that oil
and grease adhere directly to the fibers. Polyamide is hydrophilic, which means it has an
affinity to water. As a result, any type of dirt is very quickly and completed removed
with microfiber, leaving a sparkling clean, streak-free surface. Microfiber cleans without
streaking, smearing, scratching or leaving lint. Microfiber is safe to use on all delicate
surfaces. It will clean without scratching or harming the surface in any way.
Ordinary cleaning towels move or push dirt and dust from one place to another -
microfiber actually lifts or scoops the dirt and stores the dirt particles in the towel, until it
is washed. Microfiber can absorb up to seven times its weight in fluids. Microfiber cloths
are also extremely durable. They can be washed up to 1000 times and still maintain their
effectiveness. This makes it an extremely cost effective product. Machine wash or hand-
wash microfiber with mild soapy water.
VISCOSE FIBERS AND THEIR DERIVATIVES USED IN TERRY TOWEL
Revolutionary and eco-friendly and the fiber of the future.
The production of TENCEL® is revolutionary. The production process is based on a
solvent spinning process and represents the greatest accomplishment in cellulosic fiber
technology. The unique closed loop production process makes TENCEL® the fiber of
the future: eco-friendly and economical.
Lenzing Modal®
These fibers extracted from beechwood. The beech tree is quite unique and has grown in
Europe for a very long time. Directly from beechwood forests, Lenzing Modal® gives
each and every textile a natural image. Beechwood, the raw material for Lenzing
Modal®, is known as a deep-rooting plant. For this reason, beechwood, which is
extremely resistant, has been known as the Mother of the Forest since the beginning of
time.
Lenzing FR® protects against heat stress. Produced from wood, a natural raw material,
Lenzing FR® offers protection against heat and flame in a variety of different
applications. Around the world Lenzing FR® sets the standard for quality among
cellulose fibers with an incorporated FR agent. Only Lenzing FR® is produced using the
Lenzing Modal® process. This ensures that the very highest fiber tenacities are obtained.
Lenzing FR® keeps the body dry and cool. Heat stress and heat stroke can be avoided.
BAMBOO CHARCOAL FIBER
Lihanre have developed white, gray and black bamboo charcoal fibers. The bamboo
charcoal fiber is made of the wild bamboos as raw material, using the new techniques of
pure oxygen and nitrogen high-temperature calcination barrier latency, make charcoal
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micropore innate and cellular technology more refined, and then with the trend of
honeycomb-like microporous structure modified polyester slices and made from melt-
spinning.
the bamboo charcoal products have the main characters of High ability of adsorption and
deodorization, Adjust the humidity automatically, Bacterium and mildew resistant, Good
moisture management, Warm in winter and cool in summer, Good Anti-pilling and Anti-
fuzzing, Easy dyeing, Easy care. Lihanre bamboo charcoal fiber is a kind of natural and
healthy green material with multi-effects of 1200℃ bamboo-carbon, and negative ion. It
is made of nanometer-level bamboo carbon and polyester, by using special spinning
technology. The product has great efficacy of odor neutralization, humidity control,
thermo preservation and health keeping.
we make the gray color and black color bamboo charcoal fiber by control the content of
bamboo charcoal in the fiber. And we make the gray color and black color bamboo
charcoal fiber by control the content of bamboo charcoal 2%-4%-6% in the fiber.
White bamboo-charcoal fiber is made of bamboo-charcoal which made by traditional
carbonized technology. Firstly grind the bamboo-charcoal into power by nanometer-lever
technology. Then cover the white catalyst onto the bamboo-charcoal power, smelt it with
polyester, at last spin into a kind of white high quality new fiber. The bamboo charcoal
powder surface is covered with a layer of white catalyst, and then mixed together with
the polyester melt, and then spin the fiber. Then the white charcoal fiber is a kind of new
functional modified polyester fibers. white bamboo charcoal are with the same function
of gray or black bamboo charcoal fiber but also white bamboo charcoal fiber are good
and easy for any color dyeing. white bamboo charcoal fibers with the black charcoal
fiber as the functional fiber fully embodied by the charcoal adsorption odor, improve air
quality, character of anti-bacteria bacteriostasis, block electromagnetic radiation,
emission far-infrared, such as regulating temperature and humidity effects, and has
excellent dye ability can be stained light, medium and deep variety of colors.
Fitness(D) Length(mm) Grade Color Application
1.5D/2D/3D 38/88/96 First white, grey,black
spinning HYPERLINK
"http://www.bamboo-
china.com/product/bamboo-
charcoal-
yarn.html" / nonwoven
6D/10D 51/64/76/96/102 First white,grey,black for filling
Bamboo charcoal fiber as the functional fiber fully embodied by the charcoal adsorption
odor, improve air quality, character of anti-bacteria bacteriostasis, block electromagnetic
radiation, emission far-infrared, such as regulating temperature and humidity effects.
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The use of fabrics made of bamboo charcoal fiber can be widely used in mattresses,
pillows, mattress covers, sheets and underwear, bra, shirt, warm clothing, health care
apparel, socks, towels, etc
Bamboo Charcoal fiber—Modified Polyester Staple Fiber:
With the rapid development of modern industry, humans life style and living
environment has been changed a lot, more and more people begin to pursue the natural,
simple and healthy life. Returning to nature is becoming the fashion style of the citizen
now, therefore, Bamboo Charcoal fiber is developed. This fiber owns the reputation of
"black diamond". In Japan, this fiber is called the "environment guarder of 21century
".The bamboo we used must be six years old and faced south. In order to make bamboo
charcoal with more tiny hole, we took the new technology of pure oxygen high
temperature, nitrogen obstructed and time-lapse calcining, and then melt spinning with
modified polyester chip, which are with honey comb structure.
Parameters considered in the production Terry Towel:-
 Weight & GSM: Weight and GSM should be same as required by customer. Every
manufacturer has some template or software (ERPs) where towel manufacturers
calculate everything likes pile’s height, density of picks and ends to meet
requirement. This database or any software has been developed through some basic
calculation.
 Softness/ Hand feel: It depends on properties of the yarn used in pile, finishing
chemicals and too some extent on pile orientation.
 Pile Orientation: Totally depends on process line.
 Lint: Lint is basically protruding fibers present in a finished towel. It is measured by
weight of accumulated fiber collected from washing machine and tumble drying
machine during testing.
 Absorbency: Terry towel should be highly water absorbent.
 Dimensional Stability: How a towel is behaving after washing is fall under
dimensional stability properties. Dimensional stability is measured by the residual
shrinkage % in a finished towel. Other Parameters are strength, color fastness etc.
 General Fabric Properties:-
 Tensile Strength:
The more the crimp the less the strength Other things being equal, plain weave
fabrics which have the highest crimp have the lowest strength.
 Extensibility:
The more crimp there is in the yarn the more extensible is the fabric, therefore longer
the floats, the less extensible is the fabric.
 Surface Friction:
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Whether surface is smooth or rough. Long floats produce smooth fabrics with low
crimp levels.
 Tear Strength:
In case of tensile loading, all the yarns in the direction of the loading share the load.
In tear loading only one, two or at most few yarns share the load. In tight
constructions, the movement of the yarn is restricted during loading and yarn will be
presented to the load one by one; this results in a low tearing strength. Loose open
constructions allow more freedom for the yarns to move and group together, thus
presenting bundles of yarns to the tearing load; in consequence the tear strength is
high. Designs which have group of yarns woven together such as rib or basket will
have height tear strength.
 Abrasion Resistance:
The most important factors are the crimp levels and the height of the crowns caused
by the crimp. The greater the number of crowns/area or the greater the area of each
crown, the less will be the stress concentration on the crowns and this leads to a high
abrasion resistance The longer the floats the larger the area of contact between the
yarn and the abrading and the higher the abrasion resistance.
 Drape:
Heavy fabrics from coarse yarns and dense constructions have poor drape
characteristics. Fabrics with long floats in the weave permit the yarns to move freely;
this reduces the bending and shear resistance of the fabric, leading to a better drape
behavior.
 Crease Resistance:
A plain woven fabric with a high fabric count puts a heavy strain on the fibers and
limits the recovery of the fabric. The longer the floats, the higher will be the crease
resistance of the fabric.
Conclusion:
The trends in terry towel marketplace are reviewed, basically In Indian textile market are
customer oriented market customer decide the price of the product and frequently
customer require change or value addition in the product. If value addition is not
incorporated in the product, customer not attracted towards the product which will affect
on selling of the product in market. It is seen that the terry towel market is a rapidly
growing and innovative market with the new technologies of spinning, which is special
for towel end use, new fibers -both natural and manmade-, new weaving features, new
finishes such as antimicrobial finishes. All these innovations are aimed to increase the
value gained from terry towels and reduce cost of the production of terry towel.
Manufactures required to use different fibers in different proportionate so that cost of the
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production reduces and also reduces the cycle time of product and customer purchase the
terry towel product frequently.
REFERENCES:
[1] Needless, H. L. (1986) Textile Fibers, Dyes, Finishes, and Processes, Noyes
Publications,
New Jersey, pp. 34-40.
[2] Cook, G. J. (1984) Handbook of Textile Fibres: Part 1 Natural Fibres, Merrow
Publishing Co. Ltd., London, pp 47-64.
[3] Taylor, J. (1972) Human Thermal Behavior”, Physics Group Conference, London,
pp.
117-118.
[4] Morton, W. E., and Hearle, M. A. (1993) Physical Properties of Textile Fibres, The
Textile Institute, Manchester, pp. 725.
[5] Moncrieff, R. W., (1975) Polypropylene, Man-Made Fibres, Newnes - Butterworths,
London, pp. 609-627.
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Total Quality Management in Terry Fabric Manufacturing
Pranjali Chandurkar, CTF
Abstract
The challenge that companies face as the 21st Century gets underway, is to succeed in
global economy where competition is fierce and where customers are becoming
demanding of quality. Companies must take a global perspective. They must supply
products and services that are competitive in both price and quality, and in international
as well as in domestic markets. To maintain a competitive edge in such an environment
they must continually improve the quality of what they offer. Total Quality Management
(TQM) has proven itself as a way of managing and continuously improving quality. Its
successful implementation in Japanese firms has been a major factor not only in their
success, but also in establishing the levels of quality that customers now expect in
whatever they purchase. What is Total Quality Management? What indeed do we mean
by quality? Quality may be simply defined as meeting customer requirements. In fact,
given the level of competition in today’s market place, we might better define it as
meeting and improving upon requirements. Total Quality Management, as the name
indicates, regards the continuous improvement of customer-oriented quality as both
requiring active management and involving the entire company – and often suppliers and
customers as well. TQM can be described in practical terms as customer focus,
continuous improvement and teamwork. A great deal has been written about TQM, and
more scholarly analyses have identified four fundamental orientations of TQM:
Systems, customer, learning and change. From this perspective, TQM is seen as a
dynamic economic effort by firms to adapt and survive indynamic environments.
Introduction to TQM
Total Quality Management is a management approach that originated in the 1950and has
steadily become more popular since the early 1980. Total Quality is a description of the
culture, attitude and organization of a company that strives to provide customers with
products and services that satisfy their needs. The culture requires quality in all aspects
of the company’s operations, with processes being done right the first time and defects
and waste eradicated from operations."TQM is a management approach for an
organization, centered on quality, based on the participation of all its members and
aiming at long-term success through customer satisfaction, and benefits to all members
of the organization and to society.
To be successful implementing TQM, an organization must concentrate on the eight key
elements:
 Ethics
 Integrity
 Trust
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 Training
 Teamwork
 Leadership
 Recognition
 Communication
Key Elements-TQM has been coined to describe a philosophy that makes quality the
driving force behind leadership, design, planning, and improvement initiatives. For this,
TQM requires the help of those eight key elements. These elements can be divided into
four groups according to their function. The groups are:
 Foundation - It includes: Ethics, Integrity and Trust.
 Building Bricks - It includes: Training, Teamwork and Leadership.
 Binding Mortar - It includes: Communication.
 Roof - It includes: Recognition.
Aim of TQM -One major aimof TQM is to reduce variation from every process so that
greater consistency of effort is obtained.
Implementation Process of Total Quality Management
The implementation program of TQM is of nine stages:
Stage 1: understanding the organization system.
Stage 2: developing a strategic plan for the TQM effort.
Stage 3: Planning Assumptions.
Stage 4: specifying strategic objectives.
Stage 5: specifying tactical objectives.
Stage 6: implementation planning.
Step 7: project management.
Step 8: measurement & evaluation
Step 9: evaluation, accountability, follow through, ensuring effective implementation.
Requirements for successful implementation of TQM
TQM is an approach to doing business that attempts to maximize the competitiveness of
an organization through the continual improvement of the quality of its products,
services, people, processes and environment. It is a customer oriented management
system, which seeks to meet or exceed customer expectations by providing defect free
goods or services the first time, on time, all the time. Although the ultimate goal is to
satisfy external customers without meeting the requirements of the internal customers as
well. Therefore, it seeks to meet or exceed the expectations of both internal and external
customers. In TQM, the search of improvement is a never ending process. Thus, when
the initial goals are meet, newer and higher goals are set. Seeking to achieve incremental
improvements continuously is the core stone of TQM. The continuous search for
improvement requires the full participation and involvement of all stakeholders of the
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organization, including managers, employees, suppliers and customers. Particularly
significant is the buy-in by employees, without whose support the TQM effort would be
fruitless. Partnerships must also be forged with suppliers. In TQM, collaboration through
team efforts among workers and departments is encouraged, and quality improvement
becomes everyone’s responsibility. In organization where the TQM culture is well
established, the manager’s role changes from being an administrator and controller to
that of coach and facilitator. The best principles of TQM are applicable in any
organization, whether manufacturing or service, public or private. Properly designed and
implemented, TQM can help private firms to attain competitiveness both in domestic and
international markets, and it can enable nations to achieve their economic growth
objectives. In view of the fact that TQM introduction involves a major change in
organization culture and structure, its implementation process should be adapted to the
specific situation based on the objective assessment of the external and internal
environment in which a firm operated. Even though the implementation process should
be tailored to each organization’s specific situation, however there are certain necessary
conditions for the successful implementation of TQM. These basic requirements are as
mentioned below:
 Top Management Support & Commitment
The degree of support and commitment by top management is critical for TQM
success. Top management must shoe unwavering support to quality and excellence,
and must promote the effort aggressively in order to ensure support among middle
managers and workers. A true test of management commitment lies in the amount of
resources that are willing to allocate to the TQM implementation effort. Top
managements willingness and commitment to accept such change can inspire the
entire organization to embrace the TQM process.
 Long Term Orientation & Persistence
TQM is a long term oriented process, which demands persistence and patience. It is
not a quick fix and it often takes a long time before its impact can be known.
Unwavering management support and its persistent guidance are needed in order to
steer the organization towards successful implementation.
 Customer Orientation
The customers‟ needs and expectations must be carefully and continuously assessed
and understood, and every effort must be made not just to meet those expectations
but also to exceed them. This applies both to internal and external customers.
 Employee Involvement
TQM success is unthinkable without the full and active involvement of all
employees. Workers should be encouraged to utilize their latent innovativeness and
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creativity should be empowered to make their own decisions in matters related to
specific work.
 Training
Through, continuous training is a must if the TQM efforts are to succeed. The
training offered should include group dynamics, problem solving and task skills
training.
Quality Control Tools
Among the most widely used tools are the seven quality control tools (QC7)
 Check sheets,
 Histograms,
 Stratification,
 Pareto diagrams,
 Cause and effect diagrams,
 Scatter diagrams,
 Control charts/graphs.
Such tools must of course be used within a method of investigation. The typical
TQMmethod is the PDCA (plan, do, check, act) Cycle, also known as Deming‘s Wheel.
Statistical Process Control can be used to measure variation and to indicate its cause.
Somevariation is tolerated in the output of processes. However, all variation is caused
and cantherefore be reduced. Knowledge of variation theory is a powerful tool in the
ongoingpursuit of quality.Among the most widely used tools are the seven quality
control tools (QC7): check sheets,
Tools and techniques
Central to the implementation of TQM is the gradual introduction of tools and techniques
with a problem-solving focus. Many of these have been around for a long time, or are
derived from traditional tools. Process mapping, where a flowchart is used to show all
the steps in a process with the aim of revealing irregularities and potential problems, is
not unlike work-study flow diagrams. TQM tools include those that are simple to use,
those that most employees can be trained to use, and those, such as Statistical Process
Control (SPC),that require specialist training. Statistical Process Control can be used to
measure variation and to indicate its cause. Some variation is tolerated in the output of
processes. However, all variation is caused and can therefore be reduced. Knowledge of
variation theory is a powerful tool in the ongoing pursuit of quality. Among the most
widely used tools are the seven quality control tools (QC7): check sheets, histograms,
stratification, Pareto diagrams, cause and effect diagrams, scatter diagrams, and control
charts/graphs. Such tools must of course be used within a method of investigation. The
typical TQM method is the PDCA (plan, do, check, act) Cycle, also known as Deming‘s
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Wheels and other techniques are Total Productive Maintenance (TPM) ‘5S’, Six Sigma,
Statistical methods, D.M.A.I.C, Lean Manufacturing ,7 Wastes, Kanban system
Total Productive Maintenance (TPM)
The goal of Total Productive Maintenance is to improve Overall Equipment
Effectiveness (OEE) by eliminating the "Big Six Losses"
Breakdown losses
Setup and Adjustment Losses
Idling and Minor stoppage losses
Speed losses
Quality defects and rework
Start-up/yield losses (reduced yield between machine start-up and stable production
5S.
The five S's are Sort, Set-in-Order, Shine, Standardize, and Sustain.
Together, the five S's work to organize and maintain an organized workplace.
A workplace that has implemented 5S is one that has predictable, repeatable processes.
Six sigma
6 Six Sigma is concerned with reducing variability.
The goal of Six Sigma is a six-sigma level of quality or 3.4 defects per million
opportunities.
Then, project teams attack the problems using the DMAIC method: Define, Measure,
Analyze, Improve, Control.
7 Wastes
waste of overproduction;
waste of time on hand (waiting);
waste in transportation;
waste of processing itself;
waste of stock on hand (inventory);
waste of movement; and
Waste of making defective products.
Kanban
Kanban is a material and information flow management tool. They are typically cards
attached to containers of parts. The cards contain information about the parts and these
cards are reused, traveling with parts.
Kanban are used to control the minimal amount of inventory in the system. It is based on
a formula that takes into account usage, lead-time to replenish, and a safety factory based
on known or probable breakdowns in the system.
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Quantities of cards are added or removed based on seasonal changes in demand.
Quantities of cards are also removed to make it harder to meet deliveries if there are
problems, in effect exposing weaknesses.
Kanban is used as an improvement tool with the aim of removing all slack from the
system by eliminating the need for a safety factory through root cause countermeasures
of the breakdowns in the system.
The PDCA Cycle
The PDCA Cycle, developed by Deming, one of the great original thinkers of TQM, is
aninvaluable strategy for improving any situation, from solving a tiny production
problem. It consists of 4 steps:
Plan: Gather data on the problem, identify the causes, decide on possible solutions or
Counter measures, and develop a plan with targets, and tests or standards that will check
whether the countermeasures are correct. This should be done systematically and
thoroughly.
Do: Implement the countermeasures.
Check: Check the results of the implementation of the countermeasures against the
Standards established in the ‘Plan’ stage. If the countermeasures do not work, begin the
cycle again with ‘Plan’.
Act. If the countermeasures are successful, standardize them and put them into regular
use.
The resulting standards may then be improved and refined in further cycles of PDCA.
The PDCA Cycle is in fact more than a problem-solving strategy. It is essentially a
means to continuous process improvement. Kondo, the Japanese TQM expert, has made
the critical point that the PDCA cycle is based not on the idea of “get it right first time”,
but rather on the fact that we rarely do get anything completely right the first time, nor
indeed even the second or third times. The PDCA cycle must therefore be continuously
applied if quality is to be a real goal. With each application the improvements made must
be standardized and become the base for further improvement. Kondo has also
emphasized that the PDCA cycle must operate.
ISO 9000
TQM has a close correspondence with the ISO 9000 series of standards, the set of
internationally recognized standards of good management practice which ensure that the
organization consistently provides products or services that meet the customer’s quality
requirements. They define the requirements of a quality management system that can be
applied in any organization. A company may invite its customers to audit its quality
system so that they can be confident the company is able to meet their quality
requirements. It may also get an independent quality system certification body to obtain
an ISO 9000 certification of conformity. This certificate is a good reference in dealing
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journal1

  • 1.
  • 2. International journal on Textile Engineering and Processes Volume 1, Issue 1, January 2015 Copyright@CTF- MPSTME Page 2 From the Desk of Editor in Chief We are very glad to present the first volume of Textile research journal with title “International Journal on Textile Engineering and Processes”. This volume contains a wide range of research papers covering different spectrums of Textiles Engineering and Processes. Authors from different areas like Technical personnel, academicians and Textile Machinery Manufacturers were contributed peer quality research papers to this Journal. This journal will be very helpful to develop a new breed of Entrepreneurs and Research Scholars. We would like to place in record the patronage and support provided by our beloved Director Dr. Pradeep Waychal in bringing out the journal. We are also thankful to our vice-chancellor, Pro vice chancellor, Dean and other authorities for their encouragement in publishing this Textile research journal We are thankful to all the contributors of papers and our well wishers and look forward for their valuable suggestions. Dr. P. P. Raichurkar Associate Dean
  • 3. International journal on Textile Engineering and Processes Volume 1, Issue 1, January 2015 Copyright@CTF- MPSTME Page 3 CTF MPSTME Best Wishes from Associate Dean Textile industry is important in the world which caters fundamental needs of large population of the world and offers employment as well as plays key role in economic ecosystem. India is having strong base of cotton growing farmers, machinery manufacturers, technologists, researchers and consumers. Textile industry needs to maintain pace with rapidly changing technologies and modern consumer demands. All textile industry stake holders should have exposure to advancement in the field. This journal is fulfilling exact need of the textile industry. I am sure that papers in this journal will help readers to keep updated and force them to think differently than conventional approaches to improve efficiency of production, various applications, automation, and customizable demand-supply and grow business. This effort will lead to increase in overall contribution to develop emerging economies. Dr. Manoj Kumar Deshpande PhD Professor & Associate Dean, Head-Innovative Entrepreneurship Development Center [ IEDC] Shirpur www.nmims.edu/shirpur/iedc
  • 4. International journal on Textile Engineering and Processes Volume 1, Issue 1, January 2015 Copyright@CTF- MPSTME Page 4 Editorial Board Editor in Chief Dr. P. P. Raichurkar- Associate Dean, CTF MPSTME Associate Editor Dr. Vishnu A. Dorugade- Principal, CTF-MPSTME Executive Editor Prof. M. Ramachandran- Assistant Professor, MPSTME Prof. Vijay Shivankar - Associate Professor CTF-MPSTME Managing Editor Mr. Kiran More- CTF- MPSTME Editorial Board Dr N N Mahapatra C.Col FSDC ( U.K), C.Text FTI ( Manchester ) Sen Mem ,AATCC( USA), FIC,FTA,FICS ,FIE( I),C.Engg Dr. Jasmine Zhang Green Initiatives, Intertek China Dr Gajanan Bhat Professor, Materials Science & Engineering The University of Tennessee, USA Dr V Subramaniam - Professor & Director Jaya Engineering College Chennai Prof. Madhuri Kakade -Assistant Professor, CTF-MPSTME
  • 5. International journal on Textile Engineering and Processes Volume 1, Issue 1, January 2015 Copyright@CTF- MPSTME Page 5 Prof. Tushar Patil - Assistant Professor, CTF-MPSTME Prof. Harshada Upasini - Assistant Professor, CTF-MPSTME Content Sl. No. Name Topics Page No 1 Prof. Ashok Kumar Panigrahi Managing Working Capital – A Practical Approach 6 2 Prof. Abdulsalam. A. Bagwan, Spinning Technology & Practices, Meets international quality requirements of yarn for terry towel production. 16 3 Prof. Tushar C. Patil, Terry Towels ,Classification, Designing & Manufacturing Tech 23 4 Prof. R.D. Parsi Fibers Used in Terry Towels 32 5 Prof. Pranjali Chandurkar, Total Quality Management in Terry Fabric Manufacturing 40 6 Prof. Harshada Upasani Quality Testing of the Terry Towel and It’s Assurance 48 7 Dr. Vishnu A. Dorugade, Terry Towel Industry and Its Processing 54 8 Prof. Madhuri V. Kakde Defects Their Causes and Remedial Measures in Terry Fabric 71 9 Prof. Vijay D. Ghongade Textile industry: work practices in organized and decentralized sector. 77 10 Dr. P P Raichurkar Quality Management: Important Aspect of Terry Towel cluster Development 83 11 Prof. M. Ramachandran, Application of Natural Fibres in Terry Towel Manufacturing 87
  • 6. International journal on Textile Engineering and Processes Volume 1, Issue 1, January 2015 Copyright@CTF- MPSTME Page 6 Managing Working Capital – A Practical Approach Ashok Kumar Panigrahi Associate Professor in Finance, NMIMS University, Shirpur. Mail ID – panigrahi.ak@gmail.com Abstract Working capital management plays a significant role in improved profitability of firms. Firms can achieve optimal management of working capital by making the trade-off between profitability and liquidity. Though there are too many researches has been conducted on the topic working capital management and its impact on profitability, but there is no major research has been done for the negative working capital and its impact on profitability. All the studies on working capital generally states that for the improvement in profitability we should manage our working capital effectively and most of the studies recommended to have good amount of working capital in the organization. All the researches on this topic conclude that the companies should avoid under- investment in working capital if they want higher profit margins. With negative working capital there can be a danger of insolvency but it is not true forever. If the company is having a good image in the market and good relation with their creditors it can get the benefit from the negative working capital also. Various studies shows that though there is a positive relationship between working capital and profitability, yet it does not hold good for all the cases and that too always. We have seen companies generating good profit with a negative working capital as well as companies not able to generate good profit even with having good amount of positive working capital. However, it can be said that negative working capital indicates non- liquidity or less liquidity within the firm which is not desirable at each and every stages of business.Hence, the question arises that having negative working capital is good for an organization or not and if a company is earning profit continuously with having negative working capital, can we say that it is a sign of managerial efficiency or there might be the chances of possible bankruptcy of the company? Key Words: Working Capital, Profitability, Liquidity, Bankruptcy, Working Capital Cycle. Introduction
  • 7. International journal on Textile Engineering and Processes Volume 1, Issue 1, January 2015 Copyright@CTF- MPSTME Page 7 What is working capital management and why is working capital management important to your business?In its most basic form, working capital is the cash available to a business to pay its day-to-day operating expenses, such as salaries and raw materials.Yet with businesses still finding it difficult to gain access to finance, managing working capital has become more important than ever before.Effective management will mean working at both ends of the equation, by managing the cash coming in as well as the cash going out. Understand the Working Capital Cycle Cash flows in a cycle into, around and out of a business. It is the business's life blood and every manager's primary task is to help keep it flowing and to use the cash flow to generate profits. If a business is operating profitably, then it should, in theory, generate cash surpluses. If it doesn't generate surpluses, the business will eventually run out of cash and expire. The faster a business expands the more cash it will need for working capital and investment. The cheapest and best sources of cash exist as working capital right within business. Good management of working capital will generate cash will help improve profits and reduce risks. Bear in mind that the cost of providing credit to customers and holding stocks can represent a substantial proportion of a firm's total profits. There are two elements in the business cycle that absorb cash - Inventory (stocks and work-in-progress) and Receivables (debtors owing you money). The main sources of cash are Payables (your creditors) and Equity and Loans.
  • 8. International journal on Textile Engineering and Processes Volume 1, Issue 1, January 2015 Copyright@CTF- MPSTME Page 8 Each component of working capital (namely inventory, receivables and payables) has two dimensions ........TIME ......... and MONEY. When it comes to managing working capital - TIME IS MONEY. If you can get money to move faster around the cycle (e.g. collect monies due from debtors more quickly) or reduce the amount of money tied up (e.g. reduce inventory levels relative to sales), the business will generate more cash or it will need to borrow less money to fund working capital. As a consequence, you could reduce the cost of bank interest or you'll have additional free money available to support additional sales growth or investment. Similarly, if you can negotiate improved terms with suppliers e.g. get longer credit or an increased credit limit; you effectively create free finance to help fund future sales. If you....... Then...... • Collect receivables (debtors) faster You release cash from the cycle • Collect receivables (debtors) slower Your receivables soak up cash • Get better credit (in terms of duration or amount) from suppliers You increase your cash resources • Shift inventory (stocks) faster You free up cash • Move inventory (stocks) slower You consume more cash It can be tempting to pay cash, if available, for fixed assets e.g. computers, plant, vehicles etc. If you do pay cash, remember that this is now longer available for working capital. Therefore, if cash is tight, consider other ways of financing capital investment - loans, equity, leasing etc. Similarly, if you pay dividends or increase drawings, these are cash outflows and, like water flowing down a plug hole, they remove liquidity from the business. Sources of Additional Working Capital Sources of additional working capital include the following:  Existing cash reserves  Profits (when you secure it as cash!)  Payables (credit from suppliers)  New equity or loans from shareholders  Bank overdrafts or lines of credit  Long-term loans
  • 9. International journal on Textile Engineering and Processes Volume 1, Issue 1, January 2015 Copyright@CTF- MPSTME Page 9  If you have insufficient working capital and try to increase sales, you can easily over-stretch the financial resources of the business. This is called overtrading. Early warning signs include:  Pressure on existing cash  Exceptional cash generating activities e.g. offering high discounts for early cash payment  Bank overdraft exceeds authorized limit  Seeking greater overdrafts or lines of credit  Part-paying suppliers or other creditors  Paying bills in cash to secure additional supplies  Management pre-occupation with surviving rather than managing  Frequent short-term emergency requests to the bank (to help pay wages, pending receipt of a cheque). More businesses fail for lack of cash than for want of profit. Handling Receivables (Debtors) Cash flow can be significantly enhanced if the amounts owing to a business are collected faster. Every business needs to know.... who owes them money.... how much is owed.... how long it is owing.... for what it is owed. Slow payment has a crippling effect on business; in particular on small businesses who can least afford it. If you don't manage debtors, they will begin to manage your business as you will gradually lose control due to reduced cash flow and, of course, you could experience an increased incidence of bad debt. The following measures will help manage your debtors:  Have the right mental attitude to the control of credit and make sure that it gets the priority it deserves.  Establish clear credit practices as a matter of company policy.  Make sure that these practices are clearly understood by staff, suppliers and customers.  Be professional when accepting new accounts, and especially larger ones.  Check out each customer thoroughly before you offer credit. Use credit agencies, bank references, industry sources etc.  Establish credit limits for each customer... and stick to them.  Continuously review these limits when you suspect tough times are coming or if operating in a volatile sector.  Keep very close to your larger customers.
  • 10. International journal on Textile Engineering and Processes Volume 1, Issue 1, January 2015 Copyright@CTF- MPSTME Page 10  Invoice promptly and clearly.  Consider charging penalties on overdue accounts.  Consider accepting credit /debit cards as a payment option.  Monitor your debtor balances and ageing schedules, and don't let any debts get too large or too old. Recognize that the longer someone owes you, the greater the chance you will never get paid. If the average age of your debtors is getting longer, or is already very long, you may need to look for the following possible defects:  weak credit judgment  poor collection procedures  lax enforcement of credit terms  slow issue of invoices or statements  errors in invoices or statements  customer dissatisfaction. Debtors due over 90 days (unless within agreed credit terms) should generally demand immediate attention. Look for the warning signs of a future bad debt. For example.........  longer credit terms taken with approval, particularly for smaller orders  use of post-dated checks by debtors who normally settle within agreed terms  evidence of customers switching to additional suppliers for the same goods  new customers who are reluctant to give credit references  receiving part payments from debtors. Profits only come from paid sales. The act of collecting money is one which most people dislike for many reasons and therefore put on the long finger because they convince themselves there is something more urgent or important that demands their attention now. There is nothing more important than getting paid for your product or service. A customer who does not pay is not a customer. Here are a few ideas that may help you in collecting money from debtors: • Develop appropriate procedures for handling late payments. • Track and pursue late payers. • Get external help if your own efforts fail. • Don't feel guilty asking for money.... it’s yours and you are entitled to it. • Make that call now. And keep asking until you get some satisfaction. • In difficult circumstances, take what you can now and agree terms for the remainder. It lessens the problem. • When asking for your money, be hard on the issue - but soft on the person. Don't give the debtor any excuses for not paying.
  • 11. International journal on Textile Engineering and Processes Volume 1, Issue 1, January 2015 Copyright@CTF- MPSTME Page 11 • Make it your objective is to get the money - not to score points or get even. Late payments erode profits and can lead to bad debts. Managing Payables (Creditors) Creditors are a vital part of effective cash management and should be managed carefully to enhance the cash position. Purchasing initiates cash outflows and an over-zealous purchasing function can create liquidity problems. Consider the following: • Who authorizes purchasing in your company - is it tightly managed or spread among a number of (junior) people? • Are purchase quantities geared to demand forecasts? • Do you use order quantities which take account of stock-holding and purchasing costs? • Do you know the cost to the company of carrying stock? • Do you have alternative sources of supply? If not, get quotes from major suppliers and shop around for the best discounts, credit terms, and reduce dependence on a single supplier. • How many of your suppliers have a returns policy? • Are you in a position to pass on cost increases quickly through price increases to your customers? • If a supplier of goods or services lets you down can you charge back the cost of the delay? • Can you arrange (with confidence!) to have delivery of supplies staggered or on a just-in-time basis? There is an old adage in business that if you can buy well then you can sell well. Management of your creditors and suppliers is just as important as the management of your debtors. It is important to look after your creditors - slow payment by you may create ill-feeling and can signal that your company is inefficient (or in trouble!). Remember, a good supplier is someone who will work with you to enhance the future viability and profitability of your company. Inventory Management Managing inventory is a juggling act. Excessive stocks can place a heavy burden on the cash resources of a business. Insufficient stocks can result in lost sales, delays for customers etc.
  • 12. International journal on Textile Engineering and Processes Volume 1, Issue 1, January 2015 Copyright@CTF- MPSTME Page 12 The key is to know how quickly your overall stock is moving or, put another way, how long each item of stock sit on shelves before being sold. Obviously, average stock- holding periods will be influenced by the nature of the business. For example, a fresh vegetable shop might turn over its entire stock every few days while a motor factor would be much slower as it may carry a wide range of rarely-used spare parts in case somebody needs them. Nowadays, many large manufacturers operate on a just-in-time (JIT) basis whereby all the components to be assembled on a particular today, arrive at the factory early that morning, no earlier - no later. This helps to minimize manufacturing costs as JIT stocks take up little space, minimize stock-holding and virtually eliminate the risks of obsolete or damaged stock. Because JIT manufacturers hold stock for a very short time, they are able to conserve substantial cash. JIT is a good model to strive for as it embraces all the principles of prudent stock management. The key issue for a business is to identify the fast and slow stock movers with the objectives of establishing optimum stock levels for each category and, thereby, minimize the cash tied up in stocks. Factors to be considered when determining optimum stock levels include: • What are the projected sales of each product? • How widely available are raw materials, components etc.? • How long does it take for delivery by suppliers? • Can you remove slow movers from your product range without compromising best sellers? • Remember that stock sitting on shelves for long periods of time ties up money which is not working for you. For better stock control, try the following: • Review the effectiveness of existing purchasing and inventory systems. • Know the stock turn for all major items of inventory. • Apply tight controls to the significant few items and simplify controls for the trivial many. • Sell off outdated or slow moving merchandise - it gets more difficult to sell the longer you keep it. • Consider having part of your product outsourced to another manufacturer rather than make it yourself. • Review your security procedures to ensure that no stock "is going out the back door!” • Higher than necessary stock levels tie up cash and cost more in insurance, accommodation costs and interest charges. Working Capital Management – The New Approach
  • 13. International journal on Textile Engineering and Processes Volume 1, Issue 1, January 2015 Copyright@CTF- MPSTME Page 13 Working Capital Management is concerned with the management of the Current Assets and Current Liabilities and the interrelation that exists between them, so to minimize the risk of insolvency and to maximize the return on assets. The ultimate objective of working capital management is to ensure that a firm is able to continue its operations and that it has sufficient ability to satisfy both maturing short term debt and upcoming operational expenses. Working capital management calls for addressing two basic issues how much of current assets an organization should hold and how to finance the investment in them. In the present scenario some companies are using negative working capital and getting a good amount of profits and good return on capital also. Earlier negative working capital is considered as a risk of insolvency of the organizations but at present negative working capital is a sign of managerial efficiency in a business. Earlier it was considered that the companies should avoid under-investment in working capital if they wanted higher profits margins. Negative working capital is a reverse situation as compared to normal working capital. It is a situation in which current assets are lower as compared to current liabilities. A negative working capital is an indication of managerial efficiency in a business with low inventory and account receivables. This happens because customer pays in advance and so quickly, the business enjoys cash transactions; products are delivered and sold to the customer before the company even pays their suppliers and creditors. Negative Working capital doesn't always mean bad financial condition; it indicates that most of the day to day activities are funded by customers rather than company’s own working capital. Some latest examples are movie theaters - customers are paying first and distributors are normally paid later on; Schools/ educational institutions- fees paid in advance by the students annually, whereas faculties are getting salary after one month. When an organisation uses supplier’s credit and customers' advance to fulfill their day to day needs, it leads to a situation of lower or negative working capital. Banks, financial institutions, distributors, retailers with cash business or advance payment contract have negative working capital. Normally, when we analyse working capital, it always refers to normal or positive working capital (excess or current assets over current liabilities). However, there are certain situations in which working capital is in negative form (excess of current liabilities over current assets). In that situation, how can a company manage liquidity with the negative working capital? In modern business, the concept of negative working capital is significant for the following reasons; • It indicates operational efficiency of a corporate. That means without having or with low current assets the firm is managing day to day operations in an efficient manner. Eventually, it reduces cost of working capital and maximum earnings for the shareholders, which is the ultimate goal of the financial management.
  • 14. International journal on Textile Engineering and Processes Volume 1, Issue 1, January 2015 Copyright@CTF- MPSTME Page 14 • Concept of negative working capital is important to analyse liquidity position of corporate. When current assets are lower than current liabilities, what about the liquidity position of the corporate, how are they discharging current obligations in theshort period. Traditionally, liquidity ratios are the measurement of liquidity of a firm with the ideal standard of 2:1. Negative working capital indicates lower cost of working capital (another way is higher profitability), but at the same time, it indicates poor liquidity (worried situation for the creditors, etc.) or we can say company is overburdened with current liabilities, which is not good for any situation (specially in a period of recession, etc). • Another important impact of negative working capital is cash recovery or realisation situation. Negative working capital indicates quick realization of cash recourses (conversion of debtors in to cash) or one can say working capital cycle is shorter (for a days or maybe less than that). At the same time, payable policy of the company is to take longer time for payment against creditor. It indicates significant variations in the credit policy towards suppliers and customers. To analyse, explain and focus on all these situations, a study of negative working capital and its impact on liquidity, profit earning capacity and overall impact on shareholders’ value creation is important in the contemporary scenario. To understand how negative working capital works, let us analyse Warner Brothers / Wal-Mart situation. When Wal- Mart ordered the 500,000 copies of a DVD, they were supposed to pay Warner Brothers within 30 days. What if by the sixth or seventh day, Wal-Mart had already put the DVDs on the shelves of its stores across the country? By the twentieth day, they may have sold all of the DVDs. In the end, Wal-Mart received the DVDs, shipped them to its stores, and sold them to the customer (making a profit in the process), all before they had paid Warner Brothers! If Wal-Mart can continue to do this with all of its suppliers, it doesn't really need to have enough cash on hand to pay all of its accounts payable. As long as the transactions are timed right, they can pay each bill as it comes due, maximizing their efficiency. There are many ways to create negative working capital. Most important method is to minimise the size of current assets with favorable contract and agreement to the suppliers and other parties (to delay payments) and the same time, try to minimise credit facilities or maximise cash based business (collection of cash before the disbursement of actual payments to the various parties). When maximum customers are paying in advance, low or negative working capital is created. Another way to minimise the size of current assets is to adopt efficient collection method or brand oriented collection policy. Many companies are trying to minimise their cash resources with efficient utilisation of funds. Some companies are effectively using ERP system involving trade partners in planning
  • 15. International journal on Textile Engineering and Processes Volume 1, Issue 1, January 2015 Copyright@CTF- MPSTME Page 15 and monitoring working capital items to reduce the level of working capital. Efficient cash collection and inventory management system provides an opportunity to run business with the negative working capital, because most of the suppliers are granting 30 days credit in general. Companies who are able to operate and maintain with negative working capital, have advantages to receive funds without cost as a form of credit from their suppliers which will enhance ROI in a significant manner. However, non- availability of liquid resources is not a good situation at any time (especially in the stage of growth and boom). Hence, the question arises that having negative working capital is good for an organization or not and if a company is earning profit continuously with having negative working capital, can we say that it is a sign of managerial efficiency or there might be the chances of possible bankruptcy of the company? References [1]. Arora, A. (2013): “Negative Working Capital and its Impact on Profitability” The Management Accountant, March 2013. [2]. Banerjee, S. (2000): "Financial management". S.Chand and company, New Delhi . [3]. Bhalla, V. (1997): "Financial management and policy", Anmol publications Ist edition,New Delhi . [4]. Khan and Jain(2004): "Financial Management", Tata Mcgraw Hill publishing company, New Delhi 4th edition . [5]. Panigrahi, Ashok Kumar, Negative Working Capital and Profitability: An Empirical Analysis of Indian Cement Companies (June 1, 2013). International Journal of Research in Commerce & Management, Volume 4, No. 6, June 2013. Available at SSRN: http://ssrn.com/abstract=2342457 [6]. Rustagi, R. (2000): "Financial Management, theory, concept and problems", second edition pp860 Galgotia Publishing Company, New Delhi (2000). [7]. Raheman A and Nasr M (2007), “Working Capital Management and Profitability: Case of Pakistani Firms”, International Review of Business Research, Vol. 3, No. 2, pp. 275–296. [8]. Sur, D. (1997): “Working capital management in Colgate Palmolive (India) Ltd. -A case study", The Management Accountant, November. [9]. Singh, P. 2012, “Negative Working Capital and Indian Corporates – A Conceptual Analysis” The Chartered Accountant, Dec. 2012. [10]. Walker E.W. (1974): "Essentials of Financial Management", New Delhi, Prentice Hall of India Pvt. Ltd. [11]. http://www.planware.org/workingcapital.htm
  • 16. International journal on Textile Engineering and Processes Volume 1, Issue 1, January 2015 Copyright@CTF- MPSTME Page 16 SPINNING TECHNOLOGY & PRACTICES, MEETS INTERNATIONAL QUALITY REQUIREMENT OF YARN FOR TERRY TOWEL PRODUCTION. Prof. Abdulsalam. A. Bagwan, CTF, MPSTME Abstract As per as Indian textile industries are concerned the production of international quality of yarn considered to be big task, and only few mill can produce such type of yarn. This reflected on performance of industries and export side. In present investigation, Two methods described by the P Balsubramanian the first method followed by considering Uster standards while analyzing yarn qualities but this method required very quality of raw material which is very expensive to produce yarn quality which leads reduce performance of exports in international market. While in Second methodology P Subramanian suggested to consider buyer specification ,Precautionary handling of material in post spinning process and systems to be followed while producing export yarn ,Work practices to be avoided during preparation of the export quality yarn, by using online quality systems like sliver data, Ring data ,Cone data systems equipped on machine which leads improve spinner judgment and easy to check material 100% and finally meet export or international quality requirement. Keywords: International yarn quality, RKm, Thick and thin imperfection, yarn coefficient of variation, Buyers specification, Work practices, systems. Introduction Yarn quality requirement is changing every day. Quality requirement is different for different end uses and it is different for different customers. But it is difficult to produce a good quality yarn with a minimum deviation. Amongst the other factors machine and process parameter plays major role in deciding upon product quality and productivity. It was felt that standardization of machine and process parameters along with correct work practices would help to improve upon quality and productivity. Quality of yarn should be at least within 25% Uster which means the quality is among the best 25% of the mills in the world. Normally shuttles weaving machine works three to four times faster and if the quality of warp remain same ,warp break will increase three
  • 17. International journal on Textile Engineering and Processes Volume 1, Issue 1, January 2015 Copyright@CTF- MPSTME Page 17 to four times resulting in low production. Yarn should be more even and following parameter of the yarn are critically reviewed i.e. C.V. of Count, Single yarn strength, C.V. of Single yarn strength, Imperfection per 1000 meters such as thick place, thin place, and neps. Yarn requirements in terms of strength, uniformity and freedom from imperfections are dependent on two considerations: the performance & appearance requirements of the cloth, and the level of productivity which is expected of the operatives. As the first consideration does not constitute a severe constraint, it is only necessary to take account of the second one. This essentially involves achievement of the most economic balance between labour costs and machine utilization factor. No problems arise in the case of auto looms /Unconventional: the weaver continues to tend only one loom whatever quality of yarn is provided as his productivity should not fall substantially if yarn quality is lowered. Fall in productivity - in comparison with productivity achieved with perfect yarn - should not exceed 20% if the lowest quality yarn were used. The use of low quality yarns inevitably leads to higher breakage rates and consequently, to an increase in the number of operative hours needed to produce a given quantity of cloth. However, the type of loom used does not have a first order effect on the amount of time spent in the repair of a weaving break, either of warp or weft. At the lowest level of yarn quality - consistent with fabrics covered by this memorandum - one weaver might reasonably be expected to tend two non-automatic power looms or four automatic looms. With very well prepared yarn of the highest quality, one weaver could tend six non- automatics or up to sixty automatic looms. Thus, the labour-saving potential of the automatic looms is much more severely curtailed by the use of low quality yarn than is the case with non-automatic looms. This does not necessarily mean that automatic looms require better yarns, or that it is less economic to use automatic looms in conjunction with low quality yarns. The basic consideration is that the amount of labour needed is reduced when the quality of yarn is raised regardless of the type of loom. Thus, in high wage cost countries, weaving becomes profitable only if yarn quality is high. Furthermore, as the higher capital cost of automatic looms is justified by the high wages, it is usual for high quality yarns to be used in conjunction with automatic weft replenishment. Yarns which are used in Towels: In a terry towel there are four groups of yarn. These four groups are the pile warp, ground warp, weft (filling), and border weft. Pile Warp: One hundred percent cotton yarns, carded or combed, in sizes of 16/1, 20/1 Ne counts, 240-255 turns/meter twist, are most commonly used. While towels of the fashion type are
  • 18. International journal on Textile Engineering and Processes Volume 1, Issue 1, January 2015 Copyright@CTF- MPSTME Page 18 mainly piece dyed or printed. In general bulkier and absorbent yarns are used for both types of towels. Rotor spun yarns are also used in pile warps low twist cotton. Ground Warp: Carded yarns of 20/2, or 24/2 Ne count with 550 turns/meter twist, and of 100% cotton are commonly used for ground warp ends. Two ply yarns are preferred because the ground warps ends have the highest tension during weaving. It is common to use a yarn of cotton/polyester blend for greater strength. Rotor spun yarns are also used in ground warps. Weft: Carded yarns of 16/1, or 20/1 Ne counts with 240 – 255 turns/meter twist, 100% cotton are used usually for weft or filling picks. Rotor spun yarns are also used in wefts. Border Weft: Premium or high end hand towels have complex borders with fancy weaves and use a very wide range of filling yarns. Decorative, shiny and bulky yarns of rayon, viscose, polyester, chenille, or mercerized cotton are used at different yarn sizes. Novelty types of yarns may be used as a feature of design Spinning Technology required for terry towel product: The cotton yarn used in terry towel are produced by ring spinning technology or open end spinning technology which are specially developed for producing warp pile yarn for terry towel. Ring Spinning: The principle of ring spinning is first mixing or blending the fibers, opening them and arranging as much as possible parallel to each other .Second is to give the fibers a twist in order to increase the friction forces between fiber and assure they stay as yarn and draw them to the desire size. These are achieved in several steps as follows. Blow room and Carding OR Prior process: All staple fibers are processed through blow room and carding ,After opening of the cotton loose fiber goes in to the carding machine ,Here Fine flats wires on revolving cylinders pull the fibers apart, remove adherence of waste which is associated with cotton fibers and begin to arrange the fiber enough that they can be spun in to yarn. Fiber emerges from carding in the fine web, which is gathered together in to loose, fine web called as sliver. After carding, fiber is taken through a number of stages to become yarn. Combing: An extra process is introduced called combing for high quality yarns. The purposes of combing are to 1) Remove Hooks 2) Remove short fiber 3) Improve fiber orientation. Drawing (Drafting) and doubling: This is process of running slivers between set of rollers, each moving faster than ones before, which draw out or draft a number of slivers to the thickness of one: this process is repeated until the fibers are well mixed.
  • 19. International journal on Textile Engineering and Processes Volume 1, Issue 1, January 2015 Copyright@CTF- MPSTME Page 19 Speed frame: Speed frame draws the sliver out to a strand about the size of pencil, called roving are carried by the traveler around the edge of the ring, inside which is faster rotating spindle. Spinning: During spinning the roving is drawn out to yarn size and given considerable high twist to become yarn. In ring spinning, twist is inserted as fibers from roving are carried by the traveler around the edge of the ring, inside which is faster rotating spindle. Carded, combed, open end, low twist yarn for terry towel: Carded yarn has fuzzy appearance and loftier than combed yarn. Fabrics made from carded yarn have more hairy surface and will neps more than fabrics of combed yarn. Combing removes any shorter fiber and arranges the remaining lowest fibers more or less a parallel to each other. During combing about 15% further weight is lost combed sliver has silkier appearance. Open end yarn : The basic principle of open-end spinning is sliver are feeding through feed roller ,opening by high speed revolving opening roller and fibers feed through transport tube and deposited on surface of rotor and high speed rotor inserted twist to fiber strand yarn withdraw through tube and wound on winding roller. The open end yarn has following properties bulkier, less strength compare to Ring yarn ,less U %, due to these properties it can be used for pile yarn in terry products. Low twist yarn: The basic difference between low twist and the other cotton yarn is fiber. While ring spun towel use a combination of long and short staple cotton fiber, low twist must be constructed only from loner staple cotton yarn. After the fiber is made in to low twist yarn, it must be wound with polyvinyl alcohol(PVA) yarn to keep the cotton intact without the need for twisting . PVA dissolved during dyeing and yarn obtained with extremely low twist yarn. This type of yarn is called as low twist, zero twist, no twist yarn which can used for terry products. Quality evaluation methods: P Balsubramanian suggested two methods method, first method followed by considering Uster standards while analyzing yarn qualities, and meet international standards. Second methodology P Subramanian suggested to consider buyer specification ,Precautionary handling of material in post spinning process and systems to be followed while producing export yarn ,Work practices to be avoided during preparation of the export quality yarn, by using online quality systems like sliver data, Ring data ,Cone
  • 20. International journal on Textile Engineering and Processes Volume 1, Issue 1, January 2015 Copyright@CTF- MPSTME Page 20 data systems equipped on machine which leads improve spinner judgment and easy to check material 100% and finally meet export or international quality requirement. International quality: Most of the spinners under impression that, international quality means that all yarn quality specification should be either equal to or better than uster 25% value most of manufacturer try hard to attain international quality level by going for good quality of raw material at higher cost or sacrificing productivity at critical stages in production line. But as mentioned in uster statistics, A yarn whose mean value for all yarn characteristic lie below uster 25% line value of uster statistics is seldom encountered and if so, it must refer to yarn from expensive and special raw material. Practical experience has shown that yarn need not necessarily be perfect in terms of all characteristics, it must not advisable meet statistics for all quality parameter but it is more important to meet buyer specifications. Specification of buyer: In export market buyer specify the quality requirement level, generally following parameters are specified.  Lea count and its Coefficient of variation  Rkm and its Coefficient of variation.  U% with imperfections  ASTM appearance grade  TPI variation. Beside the above the buyer specify whether yarn should necessarily be electronically cleared and spliced and I case of double yarn weather it should be twisted on two for one twister. Occasionally some buyer specifies total number of objectionable fault as measured by classimat. Intrinsic quality requirements: Meeting the specification is one part of yarn quality and the other part which is more important is the performance of the yarn on the buyers machinery and ultimate quality of his end product is the yarn should withstand various parameter, processing condition and produce defect free product/yarn. Therefore spinner should aware of the end use product which is supplying to his customer and Ultimate quality index is customer satisfaction rather than yarn specification. Yarn quality evaluation: Many mills yarn evaluated for various quality characteristic like count strength and their variability’s, U% and imperfection, yarn appearances etc at ring frame stages. Only few mills evaluate yarn at cone stage , In the most of the mills post spinning operation were neglected both in terms of housekeeping renovation, modernization which leads to
  • 21. International journal on Textile Engineering and Processes Volume 1, Issue 1, January 2015 Copyright@CTF- MPSTME Page 21 deteriorate the yarn qualities. In order to improve the quality of the yarn following quality evaluations in post spinning process were suggested.  Each cone should be checked physically, proper package density, and contaminations free.  Rewinding test should be conducted at higher speed particularly for export yarn i.e. 1000 mtr/min. Record breaks should be at the most one per lakh meter. At least 10 lakh meters should be evaluated at classimat.  Objectionable fault should be less than 2 per lakh meter.  Quality of splicer and knotter should be checked al least once in week.  Cone weight variation should be minimized (+-50gms)  Yarn test, should be evaluated on high volume testing System and practices followed in export unit ForMaterial identification: In order to avoid mixing of two different counts, following system suggested for material identification.  Tinting should not used to identify the material.  Different colored card and draw frame cans used to identify the mixing  Different colored ring and roving bobbins were use to identify the material.  Cone with different colored sticker were use to identify the material. Cotton processing practices: The effort are made to make material more uniform  Arrange the card at draw frame creel in such manner that all card equally represented.  Arrange breaker cans in row form and feed finisher cans in column form.  Use block creeling system for speed frame and ring frame. Work Practices Most of the yarn faults in final yarn observed due poor work practices which leads to deteriorate yarn qualities .In order to avoid bad practices and ensure the good qualities following work practices followed by worker strictly avoided.  Over end piecing at ring frame never allowed.  The ring frame as well as roving creel piecing should be totally discouraged.  In draw frame creel piecing should be done carefully, ensure it does not result in long thick place.  Worker should be aware of poor qualities.  A continuous training scheme should be provided for worker. Quality Assurances:
  • 22. International journal on Textile Engineering and Processes Volume 1, Issue 1, January 2015 Copyright@CTF- MPSTME Page 22 In order to obtain good quality of yarn, spinners should implement online system on machine such as ring data, sliver data, cone data with these systems spinners in position to check 100% of material produced. Conclusions Present investigation reveals that, two methodology were given to obtain quality First method required rich cotton quality parameter and even sacrificing production ,quality increase stoppages one can difficult to meet international quality standards which was deterioration performances of exports. In Second methods, in order to obtained international qualities in terry yarn following area is to be concentrated.  Concentrate on specification of buyers  Take necessary precautions while producing yarn  Yarn qualities & its evaluation  Avoid bad working practices  Select the online technologies, which have online monitoring systems in order check the material 100%. By taking simple precautions during spinning, gives improvements in the performance export and Second method is quite easy to understandable and installable in Textile industries. Acknowledgement: The authors acknowledged valuable support received from The Director, NMIMS, Associated Dean MPSTME Textile Technology, The Principal, Center for Textile Functions MPSTME Dhule, District Dhule -425405 A ready reference copy of USTER STATISTICS enclosed with this study, it contents, yarn properties evaluated for different count used in Weaving. REFERENCES [1]. Uster statistics (Uster Zellwger Ltd.) 1989 Norms. [2]. Balsubramanian P., Control of winding parameter to reduce Neps and yarn faults Paper presented at 16 th ATIRA Technological conference Ahmadabad 24 – 25 April 1992. [3]. Kanthimathinathan A. & Chellamani P., Measure to produce yarn meeting international quality standard, Paper presented at 32nd Joint technological conference of ATRA,BTRA,NITRA,SITRA Ahmadabad June -1991. [4]. Venketrayan K., A critical look at specification of yarn for export vis a vis Indian performance , Paper presented at 32nd Joint Technological Conference of ATRA,BTRA,NITRA,SITRA Ahmadabad June -1991.
  • 23. International journal on Textile Engineering and Processes Volume 1, Issue 1, January 2015 Copyright@CTF- MPSTME Page 23 [5]. Güngör Durur, Eren Öner, Dokuz Eylül , The Comfort Properties of the Terry Towels Made of Cotton and Polypropylene Yarns Journal of Engineered Fibers and Fabrics Volume 8, Issue 2 – 2013 ,http://www.jeffjournal.org. Terry Towels – Classification, Designing & Manufacturing Technology Prof. Tushar C. Patil, CTF, MPSTME Abstract: Terry towels are often very complex with yarns of different types and colors, in combination with various loop pile and flat structures. Towels are subject to changing fashions, and the market is constantly demanding new designs with improved fabric characteristics important to the consumer such as softness and absorbency. In satisfying these requirements, the content and structure of terry towels are critical decisions determining the resulting quality. This review of the terry classification, designing and production will be of interest to academicians and industry personnel as a basis for understanding the steps in producing a high quality woven terry fabric. Introduction - History of terry weaving: The name “terry” comes from the French word “tirer” which means to pull out, referring to the pile loops which were pulled out by hand to make absorbent traditional Turkish toweling. Latin “vellus”, meaning hair, has the derivation “velour”, which is the toweling with cut loops. In research conducted on terry weaving by the Manchester Textile Institute, it was concluded that original terry weaving was likely the result of defective weaving. The research indicates that this development occurred in Turkey, probably in Bursa City, one of the major traditional textile centers in Turkey. Terry weaving construction is considered a later development in the evolution of woven fabrics. Terry toweling is still known as "Turk Fabric", "Turkish Toweling" or "Turkish Terry" Terry pile is a class of warp pile structures also known as the Turkish toweling in which certain warp ends are made to form loops on the surface of the fabric. Only one series of weft threads are used, whereas the warp consist of two series of threads namely ground warp produces ground cloth with the weft from which the loops formed by the pile warp and, the firm foundation structure terry cloth is really a combination of two cloths. Terry towels are used for bathing purpose because of their water absorption properties. Piles are formed on one or both sides by the variable periodic movement of the reed or
  • 24. International journal on Textile Engineering and Processes Volume 1, Issue 1, January 2015 Copyright@CTF- MPSTME Page 24 cloth fell position, mostly over three picks. Figure shows the pile formation in terry fabrics with the three-pick principle. According to this principle, the first two picks are beaten up by the short movement of the reed some distance before the cloth fell position. In the third pick, the reed makes an exact movement, and all three picks are carried up to the cloth fell position. During this movement, the three picks slide between the ground warp yarns. The pile warp yarns move forward together with three picks and take on the pile form. The distance’s’ shown in Figure 1 corresponds to the pile length. It can be adjusted on terry weaving machines to obtain different pile heights. If piles are to be formed on the surface of a terry fabric, the pile warp yarns must be over the third and first picks; similarly, if the piles are too formed on the back side of a terry fabric, then the pile warps must be under the third and first picks. Terry fabrics must be produced at a certain weight per square meter, using mostly100% cotton yarns as weft-, ground- and pile warp yarns. Certain yarn counts, such as Ne20/2, Ne24/2, Ne16/1 1), and warp density are used by factories producing terry fabrics. After the ground and pile warp yarns are prepared and drafted as one ground and one pile warp yarn. Parts of terry towel: These are the pile area, fringes, beginning and end part, selvedge, border. Every towel does not have to contain all of these parts. The pile area is considered the toweling part of the towel. Fringes are tied or an untied tasseled part of ground warps and pile warps which are left unwoven at the beginning and the end edges of the towel. The beginning and end sections are the tightly woven areas of a towel which come before or after the pile fabric part and prevent this pile area from unraveling. They are woven without pile loops, in a flat weave construction. The selvedge contains fewer number of warp end s than the pile area, for example 90 comparing to 4000 total warp ends, woven without pile as a flat weave and has the purpose to reinforce the towel sides Basics of terry weaving: The principle of terry weaving is originated in France in 1841 by John Bright. Terry cloth is defined as ‘a warp pile fabric having un-cut loops on both the sides. A fabric made from ground and pile is in the form of loops such as in bath towels and bath mats. Among pile fabrics, terry fabrics are woven by a special weaving "terry motion". Figure shows the cross-section of pile formation for 3-pick terry; in which two picks are first beaten up to a determined distance from the fabric fell. Third pick is then beaten up
  • 25. International journal on Textile Engineering and Processes Volume 1, Issue 1, January 2015 Copyright@CTF- MPSTME Page 25 against the fell together with the two preceding picks. Weft thereby slips along tensioned ground warps. The pile warp ends now form new piles. Figure – Cross-section of pile formation for 3-pick terry Figure – Terry Pile Structure Classification of Terry Towels: The classification of towels can be made according to weight, production, and pile presence on fabric surfaces, pile formation, pile structure, and finishing. These classifications are shown in Table given below. In velour towels pile loops on one side of the fabric are sheared in order to give a smooth cut velvet appearance. Uncut loops of the fabric are sheared in order to give a give the best absorbency, whereas velour gives a luxurious velvety hand. A towel with appliqués is embellished with additional pieces of decorative fabric in a motif which is stitched onto the towel Two-pick terry towels which were woven for bathrobe end-use have lost their importance today due to instability of the loops. Five or more pick terry towels are rarely produced because they need to be beaten for each pile twice. They need to be beaten for each pile twice. And four-pick terry towels. As one sided pile toweling has low water absorbing capacity, it is only used for special purposes such as a limited number of bathrobes. Furthermore weaving one sided pile terry with few or no defects is difficult. In two sided pile terry both sides are covered with pile, whereas all the irregularities are visible in one sided terry fabric as one side is bare without pile. Towels are divided into groups according to end use and size as bath towels, hand towels, face towels, fingertip towels, kitchen towels and washcloths
  • 26. International journal on Textile Engineering and Processes Volume 1, Issue 1, January 2015 Copyright@CTF- MPSTME Page 26 Terry Designing: Terry towels are woven as 2, 3, 4, 5 or more pick terry weaves. The most common type is 3-pick terry toweling. The cross section of a toweling through the Warps are divided into two systems as shown in Figure 3, pile warps and ground warps, whereas wefts consist of only one system. In basic Turkish Toweling, front side and back side pile warps and 1st and 2nd ground warp ends form a 2/1 rib weave with each other. The rib weaves which is formed by the pile warps is one pick ahead of the rib weave which is formed by ground warp ends. Warps are ordered throughout the fabric width 1:1 or 2:2 piles and ground warps. In 1:1 warp order each ground warp end is followed by a pile warp end while in 2:2 warp order each two ground warp ends are followed by two pile warp ends. In Figures 3a and 3b, the weave notation of 3 weft pile basic Turkish toweling is given in 1:1 and 2:2 warp orders
  • 27. International journal on Textile Engineering and Processes Volume 1, Issue 1, January 2015 Copyright@CTF- MPSTME Page 27 As is seen from the weave diagrams in Figures a and b shown below, the shedding of the ground warps are not synchronized with that of the pile warps. By this, the number of interlacing throughout the warp increases, and this strengthens the fabric. As it has been mentioned before terry towels can have pile loops on one or both faces. Different types of terry weave which have pile on one face and both faces Terry fabrics are often very complex with different colored warp ends in combination with loop patterns. They are subject to changing fashions, and the market is constantly demanding new qualities and designs. The rapid development of electronics has enabled fabric designers to produce completely different patterns. Via a servo motor, the beat-up position for each pick, and, thus the type of terry and the pile height can be freely programmed from one pick group to another. In this way nearly 200 different loose pick distances, and hence the same number of pile heights, can be programmed in any order.
  • 28. International journal on Textile Engineering and Processes Volume 1, Issue 1, January 2015 Copyright@CTF- MPSTME Page 28 For example, three- and four-pick terry and even fancy types of terry can be combined in the same fabric. This gives the fabric designer a broad range of patterning options and the weaving engineer the weaving structure for improving fabric performance, because transition from one pattern element to the next can be woven with greater precision With these capabilities, a new patterning method, called sculptured terry, has been developed. At each full beat -up, two pile loops of different heights can be formed in the filling direction. The secret of this method of pattern formation lies in the fact that two loose pick groups formed at distances corresponding to the pile heights are beaten up to the cloth fell together. For two short loops the pile yarns are woven into both loose pick groups and for one large loop into the second loose pick group only. The greatest challenge is to develop a basic weave which results in neat loops without excessive friction between warp and filling at full beat -up. The solution is found in a special seven pick weave combined with full beat -ups at the sixth and seventh pick. In this way, a second pile height is also formed in filling direction, making sculptured patterning possible by the difference in pile height in warp and filling direction. In Figure a terry towel pattern which is produced with this technique is shown. A requirement for this kind of pattern formation is a freely programmable sley traveling on a rapier weaving machine. Microprocessor control allows the loose pick distance to be terry pattern achieved by weaving two different heights of loops programmed easily and individually for each pick. The loop formation system with full electronic control lets you alter the height of the loop by accompanying the electronic weft ratio variator device on jacquard looms to program different weft ratios like 3-pick terry, 4-pick terry and so. By this method, different heights of loops can be achieved in the same shed. Figure – Designing in terry weave Terry Weaving:
  • 29. International journal on Textile Engineering and Processes Volume 1, Issue 1, January 2015 Copyright@CTF- MPSTME Page 29 The production of terry fabrics is a complex process and is only possible on specially equipped weaving machines. Three yarn systems are woven in the terry loom compared to the two system types of traditional weaving: Ground warp, pile warp and weft. The two warps are processed simultaneously: the ground warp, with tightly tensioned ends and the pile warp with lightly tensioned ends. A special weaving method enables loops to be handled with the lightly tensioned warp ends on the surface. Ground warps and pile warps are unwound separately, warped onto two different section beams and sized separately. The processes they undergo show some Steps of Terry Weaving: The components of an air- jet terry weaving machine are seen. The pile warp ends are let off from the pile warp beam (2), guided through the measuring unit (3), then join with ground warp ends which are let off from ground warp beam (1) and guided through the whip roll. Next, the two warp systems are threaded through the drop wires, the headless, reed and with the control of cloth take up (6) are wound onto cloth roll after weaving(7). Positive controlled whip roll for ground warp (5) determines the length of ground warp to be let off, while terry motion (4) assures integration among pile and ground warp let off and cloth take up. Figure – Terry weaving Machine Mechanism of pile formation: The formation of pile loops in terry weaving depends upon the creation of a gap between the fell of cloth and two successive picks. The length of this gap can be altered and adjusted according to the requirement of height of loops, to form this gap two succeeding
  • 30. International journal on Textile Engineering and Processes Volume 1, Issue 1, January 2015 Copyright@CTF- MPSTME Page 30 picks are beaten up short of the true cloth fell forming a temporary false fell this achieved by the terry motion. In terry fabric manufacturing two sheets of warp threads run simultaneously of which one is kept under normal tension and other is kept under loose tension. The threads normal tension warp sheet are ground and threads of loose tension warp sheet are for pile the sequence of operation during weaving for pile formation in 3- picking is given below • Insertion of first pick as per the design with loose beating • Allow a predetermined gap near the fell of the cloth • Insertion of second pick following the first pick is loose beating • Insertion of third pick with heavy beating and brings all the three pick to the fell of the cloth Pile formation by using this mechanism is based on the principle of a stable and precise shifting of the beat-up point. Using this principle the fabric is shifted towards the reed by means of a positively controlled movement of the whip roll 6 and a terry bar together with the temples on the beat-up of the fast pick. The sturdy reed drive is free of play. It provides the necessary precision for the beat-up of the group of picks. A compact, simplified whip roll system with the warp stop motions arranged on two separate levels improves handling and has a decisive influence on reducing broken ends. Due to a drastic reduction in the number of mechanical components the amount of maintenance required is reduced. With the help of electronics the precision of measuring the Length of pile yarn is improved. This leads to a better fabric quality due to constant pile height and fabric weight. The weaving process is so exact that precise mirrored patterns are possible and velour weavers experience minimal shearing waste. The tension of the ground and pile warps are detected by force sensors and electronically regulated. In this way warp tension is kept uniform from full to the empty warp beam. To prevent starting marks or pulling back of the pile loops the pile warp tension can be reduced during machine standstill. Figure - Mechanism of pile formation
  • 31. International journal on Textile Engineering and Processes Volume 1, Issue 1, January 2015 Copyright@CTF- MPSTME Page 31 Conclusion: Terry towel is one of the integrated products of the textiles. Besides the yarn quality and the finishing parameters, designing and manufacturing techniques are also plays the vital role in construction of quality parameters of terry towels. This review of the terry characteristics, specifications, production, and performance will be of interest to academicians and industry personnel as a basis for understanding the steps in producing a high quality woven terry fabric. References: [1]. Patil Subhash J. 2006, Manufacturing of terry towels, Universal Pub. Corp., Mumbai, [2]. Ramaswamy G. 1992Modernization of terry towel weaving, Textile Magazine, Vol.33. [3]. Nancy Powell, Nazire Deniz Yilmaz and Gungor Durur. The technology of terry towel production. [4]. Adnur,s. 2001, Handbook of weaving, Technomic Pub.co.Inc. Lancaster, PA, USA.
  • 32. International journal on Textile Engineering and Processes Volume 1, Issue 1, January 2015 Copyright@CTF- MPSTME Page 32 FIBRES USED IN TERRY TOWELS Prof. Rajendra D. Parsi, CTF, MPSTME Abstract In order to obtain better feel from the terry fabrics manufacturer required to use different fiber in order to improve serviceability of fabric and better absorption properties of terry fabric. In present situation, decentralized sector contributed to terry products, which gives excess of terry towel production against market requirement and which reduces the cost of terry products. In production of terry towel if manufacturer are concentrated on type of fibers and type of finishes to be used in order to obtain better comfort properties, quality and serviceability of terry fabric, which gives more satisfaction to the customer. It was observed that customer who purchased terry towel from 100% cotton, which gives very good serviceability and customer used that terry towel for long duration. Instead of using that terry towel for long period manufacturer required to add such properties like absorption, feel, and colorfastness properties so customer desire to purchase that terry towel frequently and fabric recycle time should be reduced. If manufacturer are used microfibers, Tencel fiber, bamboo fiber, Bamboo charcoal fibers then fabric recycled time reduced and cost benefits to customers and finally customer able to purchase terry fabric frequently. Cotton is the king of fiber, fabric produced from 100% cotton is quite expensive but in the market on different trade names regenerated fibers are also available which gives better hand feel properties than cotton. .If manufacturer are used these fibers in the production of terry fabrics that would give better scope for terry products. FIBERS USED IN TOWELS Properties required in the terry towel are high absorbency, high wet strength, and ability to dye well, good colorfastness wash-ability, soft hand, and hypoallergenic, low cost, and easy availability. Yarns made of cotton fibres and blends can provide these properties most effectively. Cotton Fibers Cotton fibres consist of the unicellular seed hairs of the bolls of the cotton plant, the Gossyum plant the chemical composition of typical cotton fiber is as follows: 94.0% of dry weight is cellulose, 1.3% is protein, 1.2% is pectic substance, 0.6% is wax, 1.2% is ash and 4% is other substances. Absorbency refers to a cotton fabric's ability to remove liquid water from the skin as in a towel. Cotton is hydrophilic; it wets easily, and can hold much more water than synthetic fibres can. Cotton releases a considerable amount of heat when absorbing moisture, but it dries slowly. It is not only the amount of water held that is most important, but the water held that is most important, but from the body. The size and distribution of the pores, and capillaries, between and within cotton fibres are uniquely suited for this purpose. Wet strength is one of the crucial properties required
  • 33. International journal on Textile Engineering and Processes Volume 1, Issue 1, January 2015 Copyright@CTF- MPSTME Page 33 in towels, as they are most likely to remain wet as compared to other home textiles. Cotton is stable in water and its wet tenacity is higher than its dry tenacity. The toughness and initial modulus of cotton are lower compared to hemp fibres, whereas its flexibility and its elastic recovery are higher. Cotton is a natural fiber and considered hypoallergenic. This means cotton has a low tendency to cause allergic reactions. It also does not cause skin irritation and can be sterilized. The microbial resistance of cotton is low, but the fibres are highly resistant to moth and beetle damage. The microbial resistance can be improved by antimicrobial finishing. Cotton uses in the medical institutional area are well known for their hypoallergenic characteristic and sterilize- ability. Cotton fabrics are often recommended for persons having skin allergies. Cotton sanitary products and cosmetic aids are promoted for their health benefits. Cotton towels, bedding and baby clothes have all been promoted on the basis of the hypoallergenic nature of cotton. Moreover cotton’s resistance to high temperatures of water makes cotton easy to be cleaned as it can be boiled. It has easy availability as it is grown in more than seventy countries of the world. One other reason cotton is used for toweling is it is the most economical fiber among the natural fibres Shorter staple cotton fibres are generally used in towels because fine yarn counts are not required. The cotton fibres which are used in towels have relatively low fiber length, relatively low fiber strength, relatively low maturity ratio. The micronaire range can be said to be the middle range. Other fibres:- More and more towels are being produced from fibres other than cotton such as Modal®, bamboo, seaweed, Lyocel® and now soybean, corn and other Tri-blend bamboo, silk and cotton blend is also beginning to be used in towels. Bamboo may be the next premium fiber other than high quality cotton fibres. Such as Egyptian, Pima and Supima qualities, bamboo can be used in towels because of its softness, luster, antibacterial properties and greater absorbency. However, it has yet to gain acceptance on a large scale. Flax is also among the natural hydrophilic fibres of cellulose like cotton. The fiber is termed flax, while the fabric made of flax it is called linen. Flax has better dry strength than cotton, and like cotton it gets 25% stronger when wet. It absorbs more moisture, and it wicks. It is longer, smoother, and more lustrous than cotton. However it is not used commonly in
  • 34. International journal on Textile Engineering and Processes Volume 1, Issue 1, January 2015 Copyright@CTF- MPSTME Page 34 towels as it has been limited in supply and it is expensive because of the long processing and intense labor it needs to be turned into a yarn although uncommon, flax towels have a place in the specialty market. In the year place 2004, totally 1,949,421 flax towels were in the specialty market. In the year imported to the U.S., which stands for 0.35% of the total towel import of the U.S. Micro-fiber towels are also pushing into the ultra- touch/high absorbency arena with a manmade synthetic product constructed primarily from a blend of polyester and nylon with polyamide. Through a chemical process, the polyester, nylon and the polyamide are bonded. The result is a cloth that goes through another process to split its fiber into smaller “micro” fibres, creating tiny channels. Micro fiber towels can absorb 5 to 7 times their weight in water. Like cotton, micro- fiber towels are available in various colors and weaves, such as waffle, cut terry and loop terry, with various patterns and in various weights. The heavier the micro- fiber towel, the more water it can absorb. Compared to ring spun cotton, micro-fiber is said to be more absorbent. Several companies are experimenting in combining micro-fiber with cotton to make it softer, give a better hand and perhaps make it more appealing to those who are unsure about having a synthetic towel product. MODIFIED FIBERS, USED FOR TERRY TOWEL Methods for the weaving and wet preparation of terry pile fabric for use in the production of terry towels are reviewed. Emphasis is given to new methods for meeting special requirements imposed by choice of style, type of fiber used and the size of the towels. The use of polyester fibers in the ground section of toweling requires modified scouring techniques involving the use of special sizing materials; i.e., polyvinyl alcohol. Like polyester different fibers were used in the production of terry towel product so as to reduce the cost and recycle time of the products. Some of the advanced fibers which are using in terry towel industries, they are given below. Microfiber for terry products: Microfiber consists of very fine threads of polyester and polyamide (nylon) that combine to form a single thread. Microfibers are so thin (100 times thinner than a single strand of human hair) that when they are woven together they create a surface area 40 times more than that of a regular fiber – creating an expanded surface area with dramatically enhanced absorbing power due to the capillary action of the fine threads. Microfiber is traditionally defined as a fiber with a denier of less than one. Denier is a measure of thinness of fiber and is the weight in grams of a continuous fiber of 9,000 meters. As each microfiber strand may be smaller than the bacteria it is attracting, it is able to penetrate microscopic particles of dirt and grease on a surface. Split microfiber possesses numerous wedges instead of the rounded surfaces on ordinary cloth, sweeping underneath the particles and trapping them inside. In addition, the rounded fibers on most cloths only push the dirt around, whereas the wedge-shaped microfibers grab the
  • 35. International journal on Textile Engineering and Processes Volume 1, Issue 1, January 2015 Copyright@CTF- MPSTME Page 35 particles of dirt and pull the dirt into its dense internal structure. Furthermore, chemicals only become necessary as a disinfectant, as the bonding agent is no longer necessary to keep the dirt on the fiber. Microfiber has two polymers. Polyester is lyophilic, or has an affinity to oil, so that oil and grease adhere directly to the fibers. Polyamide is hydrophilic, which means it has an affinity to water. As a result, any type of dirt is very quickly and completed removed with microfiber, leaving a sparkling clean, streak-free surface. Microfiber cleans without streaking, smearing, scratching or leaving lint. Microfiber is safe to use on all delicate surfaces. It will clean without scratching or harming the surface in any way. Ordinary cleaning towels move or push dirt and dust from one place to another - microfiber actually lifts or scoops the dirt and stores the dirt particles in the towel, until it is washed. Microfiber can absorb up to seven times its weight in fluids. Microfiber cloths are also extremely durable. They can be washed up to 1000 times and still maintain their effectiveness. This makes it an extremely cost effective product. Machine wash or hand- wash microfiber with mild soapy water. VISCOSE FIBERS AND THEIR DERIVATIVES USED IN TERRY TOWEL Revolutionary and eco-friendly and the fiber of the future. The production of TENCEL® is revolutionary. The production process is based on a solvent spinning process and represents the greatest accomplishment in cellulosic fiber technology. The unique closed loop production process makes TENCEL® the fiber of the future: eco-friendly and economical. Lenzing Modal® These fibers extracted from beechwood. The beech tree is quite unique and has grown in Europe for a very long time. Directly from beechwood forests, Lenzing Modal® gives each and every textile a natural image. Beechwood, the raw material for Lenzing Modal®, is known as a deep-rooting plant. For this reason, beechwood, which is extremely resistant, has been known as the Mother of the Forest since the beginning of time. Lenzing FR® protects against heat stress. Produced from wood, a natural raw material, Lenzing FR® offers protection against heat and flame in a variety of different applications. Around the world Lenzing FR® sets the standard for quality among cellulose fibers with an incorporated FR agent. Only Lenzing FR® is produced using the Lenzing Modal® process. This ensures that the very highest fiber tenacities are obtained. Lenzing FR® keeps the body dry and cool. Heat stress and heat stroke can be avoided. BAMBOO CHARCOAL FIBER Lihanre have developed white, gray and black bamboo charcoal fibers. The bamboo charcoal fiber is made of the wild bamboos as raw material, using the new techniques of pure oxygen and nitrogen high-temperature calcination barrier latency, make charcoal
  • 36. International journal on Textile Engineering and Processes Volume 1, Issue 1, January 2015 Copyright@CTF- MPSTME Page 36 micropore innate and cellular technology more refined, and then with the trend of honeycomb-like microporous structure modified polyester slices and made from melt- spinning. the bamboo charcoal products have the main characters of High ability of adsorption and deodorization, Adjust the humidity automatically, Bacterium and mildew resistant, Good moisture management, Warm in winter and cool in summer, Good Anti-pilling and Anti- fuzzing, Easy dyeing, Easy care. Lihanre bamboo charcoal fiber is a kind of natural and healthy green material with multi-effects of 1200℃ bamboo-carbon, and negative ion. It is made of nanometer-level bamboo carbon and polyester, by using special spinning technology. The product has great efficacy of odor neutralization, humidity control, thermo preservation and health keeping. we make the gray color and black color bamboo charcoal fiber by control the content of bamboo charcoal in the fiber. And we make the gray color and black color bamboo charcoal fiber by control the content of bamboo charcoal 2%-4%-6% in the fiber. White bamboo-charcoal fiber is made of bamboo-charcoal which made by traditional carbonized technology. Firstly grind the bamboo-charcoal into power by nanometer-lever technology. Then cover the white catalyst onto the bamboo-charcoal power, smelt it with polyester, at last spin into a kind of white high quality new fiber. The bamboo charcoal powder surface is covered with a layer of white catalyst, and then mixed together with the polyester melt, and then spin the fiber. Then the white charcoal fiber is a kind of new functional modified polyester fibers. white bamboo charcoal are with the same function of gray or black bamboo charcoal fiber but also white bamboo charcoal fiber are good and easy for any color dyeing. white bamboo charcoal fibers with the black charcoal fiber as the functional fiber fully embodied by the charcoal adsorption odor, improve air quality, character of anti-bacteria bacteriostasis, block electromagnetic radiation, emission far-infrared, such as regulating temperature and humidity effects, and has excellent dye ability can be stained light, medium and deep variety of colors. Fitness(D) Length(mm) Grade Color Application 1.5D/2D/3D 38/88/96 First white, grey,black spinning HYPERLINK "http://www.bamboo- china.com/product/bamboo- charcoal- yarn.html" / nonwoven 6D/10D 51/64/76/96/102 First white,grey,black for filling Bamboo charcoal fiber as the functional fiber fully embodied by the charcoal adsorption odor, improve air quality, character of anti-bacteria bacteriostasis, block electromagnetic radiation, emission far-infrared, such as regulating temperature and humidity effects.
  • 37. International journal on Textile Engineering and Processes Volume 1, Issue 1, January 2015 Copyright@CTF- MPSTME Page 37 The use of fabrics made of bamboo charcoal fiber can be widely used in mattresses, pillows, mattress covers, sheets and underwear, bra, shirt, warm clothing, health care apparel, socks, towels, etc Bamboo Charcoal fiber—Modified Polyester Staple Fiber: With the rapid development of modern industry, humans life style and living environment has been changed a lot, more and more people begin to pursue the natural, simple and healthy life. Returning to nature is becoming the fashion style of the citizen now, therefore, Bamboo Charcoal fiber is developed. This fiber owns the reputation of "black diamond". In Japan, this fiber is called the "environment guarder of 21century ".The bamboo we used must be six years old and faced south. In order to make bamboo charcoal with more tiny hole, we took the new technology of pure oxygen high temperature, nitrogen obstructed and time-lapse calcining, and then melt spinning with modified polyester chip, which are with honey comb structure. Parameters considered in the production Terry Towel:-  Weight & GSM: Weight and GSM should be same as required by customer. Every manufacturer has some template or software (ERPs) where towel manufacturers calculate everything likes pile’s height, density of picks and ends to meet requirement. This database or any software has been developed through some basic calculation.  Softness/ Hand feel: It depends on properties of the yarn used in pile, finishing chemicals and too some extent on pile orientation.  Pile Orientation: Totally depends on process line.  Lint: Lint is basically protruding fibers present in a finished towel. It is measured by weight of accumulated fiber collected from washing machine and tumble drying machine during testing.  Absorbency: Terry towel should be highly water absorbent.  Dimensional Stability: How a towel is behaving after washing is fall under dimensional stability properties. Dimensional stability is measured by the residual shrinkage % in a finished towel. Other Parameters are strength, color fastness etc.  General Fabric Properties:-  Tensile Strength: The more the crimp the less the strength Other things being equal, plain weave fabrics which have the highest crimp have the lowest strength.  Extensibility: The more crimp there is in the yarn the more extensible is the fabric, therefore longer the floats, the less extensible is the fabric.  Surface Friction:
  • 38. International journal on Textile Engineering and Processes Volume 1, Issue 1, January 2015 Copyright@CTF- MPSTME Page 38 Whether surface is smooth or rough. Long floats produce smooth fabrics with low crimp levels.  Tear Strength: In case of tensile loading, all the yarns in the direction of the loading share the load. In tear loading only one, two or at most few yarns share the load. In tight constructions, the movement of the yarn is restricted during loading and yarn will be presented to the load one by one; this results in a low tearing strength. Loose open constructions allow more freedom for the yarns to move and group together, thus presenting bundles of yarns to the tearing load; in consequence the tear strength is high. Designs which have group of yarns woven together such as rib or basket will have height tear strength.  Abrasion Resistance: The most important factors are the crimp levels and the height of the crowns caused by the crimp. The greater the number of crowns/area or the greater the area of each crown, the less will be the stress concentration on the crowns and this leads to a high abrasion resistance The longer the floats the larger the area of contact between the yarn and the abrading and the higher the abrasion resistance.  Drape: Heavy fabrics from coarse yarns and dense constructions have poor drape characteristics. Fabrics with long floats in the weave permit the yarns to move freely; this reduces the bending and shear resistance of the fabric, leading to a better drape behavior.  Crease Resistance: A plain woven fabric with a high fabric count puts a heavy strain on the fibers and limits the recovery of the fabric. The longer the floats, the higher will be the crease resistance of the fabric. Conclusion: The trends in terry towel marketplace are reviewed, basically In Indian textile market are customer oriented market customer decide the price of the product and frequently customer require change or value addition in the product. If value addition is not incorporated in the product, customer not attracted towards the product which will affect on selling of the product in market. It is seen that the terry towel market is a rapidly growing and innovative market with the new technologies of spinning, which is special for towel end use, new fibers -both natural and manmade-, new weaving features, new finishes such as antimicrobial finishes. All these innovations are aimed to increase the value gained from terry towels and reduce cost of the production of terry towel. Manufactures required to use different fibers in different proportionate so that cost of the
  • 39. International journal on Textile Engineering and Processes Volume 1, Issue 1, January 2015 Copyright@CTF- MPSTME Page 39 production reduces and also reduces the cycle time of product and customer purchase the terry towel product frequently. REFERENCES: [1] Needless, H. L. (1986) Textile Fibers, Dyes, Finishes, and Processes, Noyes Publications, New Jersey, pp. 34-40. [2] Cook, G. J. (1984) Handbook of Textile Fibres: Part 1 Natural Fibres, Merrow Publishing Co. Ltd., London, pp 47-64. [3] Taylor, J. (1972) Human Thermal Behavior”, Physics Group Conference, London, pp. 117-118. [4] Morton, W. E., and Hearle, M. A. (1993) Physical Properties of Textile Fibres, The Textile Institute, Manchester, pp. 725. [5] Moncrieff, R. W., (1975) Polypropylene, Man-Made Fibres, Newnes - Butterworths, London, pp. 609-627.
  • 40. International journal on Textile Engineering and Processes Volume 1, Issue 1, January 2015 Copyright@CTF- MPSTME Page 40 Total Quality Management in Terry Fabric Manufacturing Pranjali Chandurkar, CTF Abstract The challenge that companies face as the 21st Century gets underway, is to succeed in global economy where competition is fierce and where customers are becoming demanding of quality. Companies must take a global perspective. They must supply products and services that are competitive in both price and quality, and in international as well as in domestic markets. To maintain a competitive edge in such an environment they must continually improve the quality of what they offer. Total Quality Management (TQM) has proven itself as a way of managing and continuously improving quality. Its successful implementation in Japanese firms has been a major factor not only in their success, but also in establishing the levels of quality that customers now expect in whatever they purchase. What is Total Quality Management? What indeed do we mean by quality? Quality may be simply defined as meeting customer requirements. In fact, given the level of competition in today’s market place, we might better define it as meeting and improving upon requirements. Total Quality Management, as the name indicates, regards the continuous improvement of customer-oriented quality as both requiring active management and involving the entire company – and often suppliers and customers as well. TQM can be described in practical terms as customer focus, continuous improvement and teamwork. A great deal has been written about TQM, and more scholarly analyses have identified four fundamental orientations of TQM: Systems, customer, learning and change. From this perspective, TQM is seen as a dynamic economic effort by firms to adapt and survive indynamic environments. Introduction to TQM Total Quality Management is a management approach that originated in the 1950and has steadily become more popular since the early 1980. Total Quality is a description of the culture, attitude and organization of a company that strives to provide customers with products and services that satisfy their needs. The culture requires quality in all aspects of the company’s operations, with processes being done right the first time and defects and waste eradicated from operations."TQM is a management approach for an organization, centered on quality, based on the participation of all its members and aiming at long-term success through customer satisfaction, and benefits to all members of the organization and to society. To be successful implementing TQM, an organization must concentrate on the eight key elements:  Ethics  Integrity  Trust
  • 41. International journal on Textile Engineering and Processes Volume 1, Issue 1, January 2015 Copyright@CTF- MPSTME Page 41  Training  Teamwork  Leadership  Recognition  Communication Key Elements-TQM has been coined to describe a philosophy that makes quality the driving force behind leadership, design, planning, and improvement initiatives. For this, TQM requires the help of those eight key elements. These elements can be divided into four groups according to their function. The groups are:  Foundation - It includes: Ethics, Integrity and Trust.  Building Bricks - It includes: Training, Teamwork and Leadership.  Binding Mortar - It includes: Communication.  Roof - It includes: Recognition. Aim of TQM -One major aimof TQM is to reduce variation from every process so that greater consistency of effort is obtained. Implementation Process of Total Quality Management The implementation program of TQM is of nine stages: Stage 1: understanding the organization system. Stage 2: developing a strategic plan for the TQM effort. Stage 3: Planning Assumptions. Stage 4: specifying strategic objectives. Stage 5: specifying tactical objectives. Stage 6: implementation planning. Step 7: project management. Step 8: measurement & evaluation Step 9: evaluation, accountability, follow through, ensuring effective implementation. Requirements for successful implementation of TQM TQM is an approach to doing business that attempts to maximize the competitiveness of an organization through the continual improvement of the quality of its products, services, people, processes and environment. It is a customer oriented management system, which seeks to meet or exceed customer expectations by providing defect free goods or services the first time, on time, all the time. Although the ultimate goal is to satisfy external customers without meeting the requirements of the internal customers as well. Therefore, it seeks to meet or exceed the expectations of both internal and external customers. In TQM, the search of improvement is a never ending process. Thus, when the initial goals are meet, newer and higher goals are set. Seeking to achieve incremental improvements continuously is the core stone of TQM. The continuous search for improvement requires the full participation and involvement of all stakeholders of the
  • 42. International journal on Textile Engineering and Processes Volume 1, Issue 1, January 2015 Copyright@CTF- MPSTME Page 42 organization, including managers, employees, suppliers and customers. Particularly significant is the buy-in by employees, without whose support the TQM effort would be fruitless. Partnerships must also be forged with suppliers. In TQM, collaboration through team efforts among workers and departments is encouraged, and quality improvement becomes everyone’s responsibility. In organization where the TQM culture is well established, the manager’s role changes from being an administrator and controller to that of coach and facilitator. The best principles of TQM are applicable in any organization, whether manufacturing or service, public or private. Properly designed and implemented, TQM can help private firms to attain competitiveness both in domestic and international markets, and it can enable nations to achieve their economic growth objectives. In view of the fact that TQM introduction involves a major change in organization culture and structure, its implementation process should be adapted to the specific situation based on the objective assessment of the external and internal environment in which a firm operated. Even though the implementation process should be tailored to each organization’s specific situation, however there are certain necessary conditions for the successful implementation of TQM. These basic requirements are as mentioned below:  Top Management Support & Commitment The degree of support and commitment by top management is critical for TQM success. Top management must shoe unwavering support to quality and excellence, and must promote the effort aggressively in order to ensure support among middle managers and workers. A true test of management commitment lies in the amount of resources that are willing to allocate to the TQM implementation effort. Top managements willingness and commitment to accept such change can inspire the entire organization to embrace the TQM process.  Long Term Orientation & Persistence TQM is a long term oriented process, which demands persistence and patience. It is not a quick fix and it often takes a long time before its impact can be known. Unwavering management support and its persistent guidance are needed in order to steer the organization towards successful implementation.  Customer Orientation The customers‟ needs and expectations must be carefully and continuously assessed and understood, and every effort must be made not just to meet those expectations but also to exceed them. This applies both to internal and external customers.  Employee Involvement TQM success is unthinkable without the full and active involvement of all employees. Workers should be encouraged to utilize their latent innovativeness and
  • 43. International journal on Textile Engineering and Processes Volume 1, Issue 1, January 2015 Copyright@CTF- MPSTME Page 43 creativity should be empowered to make their own decisions in matters related to specific work.  Training Through, continuous training is a must if the TQM efforts are to succeed. The training offered should include group dynamics, problem solving and task skills training. Quality Control Tools Among the most widely used tools are the seven quality control tools (QC7)  Check sheets,  Histograms,  Stratification,  Pareto diagrams,  Cause and effect diagrams,  Scatter diagrams,  Control charts/graphs. Such tools must of course be used within a method of investigation. The typical TQMmethod is the PDCA (plan, do, check, act) Cycle, also known as Deming‘s Wheel. Statistical Process Control can be used to measure variation and to indicate its cause. Somevariation is tolerated in the output of processes. However, all variation is caused and cantherefore be reduced. Knowledge of variation theory is a powerful tool in the ongoingpursuit of quality.Among the most widely used tools are the seven quality control tools (QC7): check sheets, Tools and techniques Central to the implementation of TQM is the gradual introduction of tools and techniques with a problem-solving focus. Many of these have been around for a long time, or are derived from traditional tools. Process mapping, where a flowchart is used to show all the steps in a process with the aim of revealing irregularities and potential problems, is not unlike work-study flow diagrams. TQM tools include those that are simple to use, those that most employees can be trained to use, and those, such as Statistical Process Control (SPC),that require specialist training. Statistical Process Control can be used to measure variation and to indicate its cause. Some variation is tolerated in the output of processes. However, all variation is caused and can therefore be reduced. Knowledge of variation theory is a powerful tool in the ongoing pursuit of quality. Among the most widely used tools are the seven quality control tools (QC7): check sheets, histograms, stratification, Pareto diagrams, cause and effect diagrams, scatter diagrams, and control charts/graphs. Such tools must of course be used within a method of investigation. The typical TQM method is the PDCA (plan, do, check, act) Cycle, also known as Deming‘s
  • 44. International journal on Textile Engineering and Processes Volume 1, Issue 1, January 2015 Copyright@CTF- MPSTME Page 44 Wheels and other techniques are Total Productive Maintenance (TPM) ‘5S’, Six Sigma, Statistical methods, D.M.A.I.C, Lean Manufacturing ,7 Wastes, Kanban system Total Productive Maintenance (TPM) The goal of Total Productive Maintenance is to improve Overall Equipment Effectiveness (OEE) by eliminating the "Big Six Losses" Breakdown losses Setup and Adjustment Losses Idling and Minor stoppage losses Speed losses Quality defects and rework Start-up/yield losses (reduced yield between machine start-up and stable production 5S. The five S's are Sort, Set-in-Order, Shine, Standardize, and Sustain. Together, the five S's work to organize and maintain an organized workplace. A workplace that has implemented 5S is one that has predictable, repeatable processes. Six sigma 6 Six Sigma is concerned with reducing variability. The goal of Six Sigma is a six-sigma level of quality or 3.4 defects per million opportunities. Then, project teams attack the problems using the DMAIC method: Define, Measure, Analyze, Improve, Control. 7 Wastes waste of overproduction; waste of time on hand (waiting); waste in transportation; waste of processing itself; waste of stock on hand (inventory); waste of movement; and Waste of making defective products. Kanban Kanban is a material and information flow management tool. They are typically cards attached to containers of parts. The cards contain information about the parts and these cards are reused, traveling with parts. Kanban are used to control the minimal amount of inventory in the system. It is based on a formula that takes into account usage, lead-time to replenish, and a safety factory based on known or probable breakdowns in the system.
  • 45. International journal on Textile Engineering and Processes Volume 1, Issue 1, January 2015 Copyright@CTF- MPSTME Page 45 Quantities of cards are added or removed based on seasonal changes in demand. Quantities of cards are also removed to make it harder to meet deliveries if there are problems, in effect exposing weaknesses. Kanban is used as an improvement tool with the aim of removing all slack from the system by eliminating the need for a safety factory through root cause countermeasures of the breakdowns in the system. The PDCA Cycle The PDCA Cycle, developed by Deming, one of the great original thinkers of TQM, is aninvaluable strategy for improving any situation, from solving a tiny production problem. It consists of 4 steps: Plan: Gather data on the problem, identify the causes, decide on possible solutions or Counter measures, and develop a plan with targets, and tests or standards that will check whether the countermeasures are correct. This should be done systematically and thoroughly. Do: Implement the countermeasures. Check: Check the results of the implementation of the countermeasures against the Standards established in the ‘Plan’ stage. If the countermeasures do not work, begin the cycle again with ‘Plan’. Act. If the countermeasures are successful, standardize them and put them into regular use. The resulting standards may then be improved and refined in further cycles of PDCA. The PDCA Cycle is in fact more than a problem-solving strategy. It is essentially a means to continuous process improvement. Kondo, the Japanese TQM expert, has made the critical point that the PDCA cycle is based not on the idea of “get it right first time”, but rather on the fact that we rarely do get anything completely right the first time, nor indeed even the second or third times. The PDCA cycle must therefore be continuously applied if quality is to be a real goal. With each application the improvements made must be standardized and become the base for further improvement. Kondo has also emphasized that the PDCA cycle must operate. ISO 9000 TQM has a close correspondence with the ISO 9000 series of standards, the set of internationally recognized standards of good management practice which ensure that the organization consistently provides products or services that meet the customer’s quality requirements. They define the requirements of a quality management system that can be applied in any organization. A company may invite its customers to audit its quality system so that they can be confident the company is able to meet their quality requirements. It may also get an independent quality system certification body to obtain an ISO 9000 certification of conformity. This certificate is a good reference in dealing