4. Dedications
I dedicate this report to my loving parents whose prays, affection and
support are always a source of encouragement for me to reach at this
destination and a humble icon for others in future. My parent and teachers
who give me real eyes that help me to leads myself and others in the dark
and cruel world.
4
5. Acknowledgement
The credit for the completion of report goes to a number of peoples.
First of all I thankful to Allah Almighty, for providing me strength and
resources to carry out the research.
Then I want to thank my parents who provided me with unconditional
love and moral support so I became able to do this in an efficient way. I wish
to thank all who helped me in making this report.
I am very thank full to Mr. ‘Sadaqat Rasool’ the General Manger of
HR department in KAY & EMMS Faisalabad, who made KAY & EMMS
accessible for me. I am thankful to Mr. ‘Waseem Safdar’ the Manger of
PPC & I.E who helped me and guided my efforts in the right direction. I am
also very thankful to all people who helped me and worked with me in KAY
& EMMS.
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6. Abstract
Through critical and deep study, this report examines the types of
production systems that are used in apparel industry of Pakistan. It shows
the analysis and comparison of production systems with respect to cost,
quality and productivity. Since the function of sewing department mainly
depends on the type of production system, its selection needs to be done
carefully.
This study is based on the analysis of the handling time required to
complete the operations of a polo shirt, as the needle time is constant in all
types of systems. This thesis also focuses on the positive and negative
aspects of production systems. It demonstrates that the industry has made
significant progress towards comprehending the necessity of proper
production system which has implications on the overall productivity of an
apparel mill.
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7. Introduction
Established in 1990, today Kay &Emms (Pvt) Ltd is one of the
leading manufacturers of knitted apparel in Pakistan. With the experience of
more than21 years in the industry, Kay & Emms have served several
different major brands and labels in the US and Europe.
Kay & Emms is capable of producing different styles of men, ladies
and children from basic to high fashion with extensive embellishments. Kay
& Emms deals in 100% cotton and cotton-blended fabrics. Fleece,
interlocks, Ribs and cotton-spandex fabrics are strengths of Kay & Emms
and several other programs like Jerseys, Piques and thermals are also
manufactured every year.
The vertically integrated operations help Kay & Emms to achieve
shorter lead times and greater flexibility to cater to the customers’ demand
and their satisfaction. As a business we can produce 70,000 pieces per week.
The factories are producing a range of knitted jersey tops and bottoms with
heavy embellishments for Children’s, Ladies and Menswear.
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9. MERCHANDISING
Merchandising is a process through which products are planned, developed,
executed and presented to the buyer. It includes directing and overseeing the
development of product line from start to finish. Marketing and merchandising
department: A team of merchandisers and markets work together under a profit controls
head. Merchandisers handle the foreign buyers. The teams are make according toi the
buyers being handled.
Two types of merchandising done in garment exports
Marketing merchandising.
Product merchandising.
Marketing Merchandising
Main function of market merchandising is
Product Development
Costing
Ordering
Marketing merchandising is to bring orders costly products development and it has
direct contact with the buyer.
Product Merchandising
Product merchandising is done in the unit. This includes all the responsibilities
from sourcing to finishing i.e. first sample onwards, the products merchandising work
start and ends till shipment.
Merchandisers key responsibilities are as follows:-
Product Development
Market and product Analysis
Selling the concepts
Booking order
Confirming Deliveries
Costing
Raw Material
9
10. Flow Monitoring
Production Follow Ups
Payments Follows
Sampling
Sampling is the Research and Development section of the garment industry. In
this department the replicas of the bulk is produced. The samples are produced according
to the spec sheet in single size and sent for buyer approval; the sample is the
representative of the whole bulk. This initiates the actual production. Sampling process is
responsible to monitor quality at minimum cost. The samples garment is prepared in the
sampling department with great care because these samples represent the capability of the
company and in order to procure orders to the company. This is done very cautiously
checking every minute thing getting the sample to perfection as per the buyer’s
requirements in the spec sheet.
Types of samples
Developing stage of style
It is the own developing of size with respect to the sample given by the buyer.
Proto sample
1) This is the first sample being prepared contain only substitute fabric.
2) Only in one size is been prepared and sent.
3) This sample is sent to buyer agent if not in some cased to buyer itself.
4) The pattern prepared for proto sample does not contain seam allowances.
5) This sample is prepared for just to get the garment outlook and size.
Fit approval
1) In this sample stitch construction is mentioned.
2) The grain cutting direction is mentioned as per buyer.
3) The procurement of trims4.the stitching instructions of the different parts of
garment
4) The accurate dimensions of the garment are specified.
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11. Sales men sample
1) In this type sample of 4-6 pieces in each size sent to buyer.
2) The buyer will have certain buying houses or showrooms where the samples are
sent, if the samples are fast moving then the order been placed.
3) The pattern prepared for salesmen sample, will contain seam allowances as lay is
been made for cutting above thirty pieces.
4) Fabric being original with all accessories
Red seal sample
1) This sample is not been prepared in reference to all buyers. Only certain buyers
do ask for Red Seal Samples.
2) The sample is been sent with full accessories and details.
3) One sample is been sent in all sizes.
Size set samples
1) This sample is been prepared in order to check perfect fit to the garment.
2) In all sizes one sample is sent to the buyer to check the fit.
3) Based on this sample the buyer sends comments regarding the size fit if any.
4) In certain cases the fabric may be of substitute fabric.
Pilot run sample
1) Here about 30-50 pieces is been prepared.
2) In each size and in each colour one garment is been produced.
Pre-production samples
1) In this sample all accessories and fabric being original.
2) The Q.C. in the production selects one sample and sends it to the Merchandiser;
the latter checked and then sends it to the buyer.
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12. Top samples
1) This is the sample is been prepared in the production line during production
hours.
2) One or two samples being sent to the buyer to give the knowledge of the garment
how is being stitched in the production line.
3) Only certain buyers do ask for TOP samples.
Shipment sample
1) Here one or two samples to be sent to the buyer to give knowledge of what is
being sent to the buyer through shipment.
2) Certain buyers do ask for this type of samples though this sample is not sent
usually.
Counter sample
1) For all samples there should be preparation of one or two samples, which is for
our reference.
Costing
Costing includes all the activities like purchase of raw materials and accessories,
knitting fabrics, processing and finishing of fabrics, sewing and packing of garments,
transport and conveyance, shipping, over heads, banking charges and commissions, etc.
The method of making costing will vary from style to style. As there are many different
styles in garments, it is not possible here to discuss about all the styles. Hence let us take
some following styles as examples which are in regular use.
Men’s Basic T-Shirts,
Men’s Printed Polo Shirts,
Ladies Hood,
Men’s Trouser,
To make the garment costing, we have to find out following things.
Fabric consumption.
Gross weight of other components of garment.
Fabric cost per kg.
Fabric cost per garment.
Other charges (print, embroidery, etc.)
Cost of trims (labels, tags, badges, twill tapes, buttons, bows, etc.)
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14. PRODUCTION PLANNING AND CONTROL
Production Planning and Control (PPC) department is one of the most important
departments of the manufacturing organizations. What I have seen during my visit to
Industries that many of them do not have PPC department. Instead of it, I think there
might be someone appointed for the planning work with a different profile name.
In most of the small size factories the owner or director himself or herself does
the planning. It has both positive and negative impact on the lead time, on on-time
process completion and job responsibilities of the employees. Many times, delays start in
planning stage and work allocation to the respective employees. In this situation
employees can’t do anything as because Mr. Director is responsible for the delay in the
beginning.
Few companies have complete set up of PPC department but they have no power
to put pressure on pre-production departments, like merchandising and fabric sourcing,
instead of just keeping records and doing planning on paper and in their computers. Many
times, it was also seen that PPC personnel don’t aware about the actual happenings on the
shop floor. This is because production team do not committed to provide them real time
information. It results poor re-planning and shuffling of newer orders. This also affect in
computing of actual available capacity for the coming weeks. More than that the PPC
personnel sometime don’t even aware what product is running in lines
Two important principle of getting work done on time is as following.
While you delegating any work to somebody it is your responsibility to tell them
exactly what outcome you want and when you want it. Tell them, show them and
check their understanding whether they understand your requirement or not.
Similarly when you are taking any work from others you should ask for when
they want work.
Benefits
Production planning and control can facilitate the small entrepreneur in the following
ways
1) Optimum Utilization of Capacity
With the help of Production Planning and Control (PPC) the entrepreneur can
schedule his tasks and production runs and thereby ensure that his productive capacity
does not remain idle and there is no undue queuing up of tasks via proper allocation of
tasks to the production facilities. No order goes unattended and no machine remains idle.
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15. 2) Inventory control
Proper PPC will help the entrepreneur to resort to just- in- time systems and
thereby reduce the overall inventory. It will enable him to ensure that the right supplies
are available at the right time.
3) Economy in production time
PPC will help the entrepreneur to reduce the cycle time and increase the turnover
via proper scheduling.
4) Ensure quality
A good PPC will provide for adherence to the quality standards so that quality of
output is ensured. To sum up we may say that PPC is of immense value to the
entrepreneur in capacity utilization and inventory control. More importantly it improves
his response time and quality. As such effective PPC contributes to time, quality and cost
parameters of entrepreneurial success.
Production Management
Production system is a system whose function is to convert a set of inputs into a
set of desired outputs. Production system is depicted under with help of chart.
Inputs Conversion Process Outputs
Control
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17. INDUSTRIAL ENGINEERING
What is Industrial Engineering?
It is consists of Work Study and some other applications such as Designing of
Plant’s and its components, Introduce and maintain new mechanical and electrical
systems, Designing of various production processes, Planning of production and
machinery to improve the plant efficiency.
This department deals with:
Work study
Production
Productivity
Efficiency
SMV (standard minute value)
Consumption
Elastic, thread, lace, etc, checking.
Operation breakdown
Balancing
Layout making
Method analysis
Cost Reduction
Automation
Work aids and attachments
Process rate calculation
Loss minutes monitoring
Capacity (plan)
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18. SMV (standard minute value)
Man power planning
Capacity booking
Machine quality
Delivery planning
Balancing
What is work study?
Work study is a management service based on those techniques, particularly
Method Study and Work measurement, which are used in the examination of human
work in all its contexts, and which lead to the systematic investigation of all the resources
and factors which affect the efficiency and economy of the situation being reviewed, in
order to effect improvement.
It is a precise science of which Work measurement and method study are the two
main branches; a management technique, the main weapon of attack on the goal of
increasing productivity. It is the examination of human work in all in its contexts, leading
systematically to the investigation of all the factors which affect the efficiency and
economy of the situation being reviewed in order to effect improvement.
What is Standard Minute Value (SMV)?
It is the time (standard time) taken for standard (skilled) operator to complete one
specific task. This time is normally measured in minutes.
What is time study?
Time study is a tried and tested method of work measurement for setting basic
times and hence standard times for carrying out specified work.
The aim of time study is to establish a time for a qualified worker to perform
specified work under stated conditions and at a defined rate of working.
The requirements for taking a time study are quite strict.
Conditions:
the observer must be fully qualified to carry out Time Study,
the person performing the task must be fully trained and experienced in the work,
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19. the work must be clearly defined and the method of doing the work must be
effective
the working conditions must be clearly defined
Before starting a time study
Make sure,
Method study has been done
Method should produce the required quality
For new methods plenty of time to settle down
Operator can be rate between 60% to 130%
Inform the supervisor before start
Operator not be disturbed during study
Ensure operator has enough supply
Stand diagonally behind the operator about 1.5 – 2.0 meters
Take more and more observations
Record relevant details about the method and machines
Standard Minute Value
S.M.V = Basic Time + Allowance
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20. Line Balancing
There are two aspects of balancing in a clothing factory.
The first includes setting up or rearranging a line to a manufacture each new type
or style of garments as the previous one is completed and is therefore seen only in those
factories which make fashion garments. It may require anything from the change of one
machine or machinist, to a complete rearrangement of the section.
The second occurs as a matter of routine in every factory, involving the
movement of operators from one operation to another to maintain a smooth flow of
production, and to correct for absentees, machine breakdown or small differences in the
output of the operations on the line.
In both cases, the objective is to deploy whatever machines and operators are available so
as to achieve the optimum level of output.
Balancing is made easy by;
Reducing the number of operations on the section.
Increasing the number of operators on each operation.
Increasing the work in progress
Increasing the versatility of the operators
Reducing the proportion of operations which require specialized machines
Increasing the number of spare machines.
In addition, a section can be balanced much more reliably if standard times for each
operation are available in advance and if the performance of individual operators can be
accurately predicted.
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21. Efficiency of an organization
Efficiency is the ratio between total produced minutes and total working minutes.
Total produced minutes is the multiplication of total SMV of the product and total
number of garments produced. Total working minutes is the multiplication of total
number of the workers in the line and no of working minutes per operator. This ratio
directly gives the efficiency of the factory.
Efficiency of the plant =No of garments produced in day *SMV of the product*100
No of working minutes per day * No of operators in plant
How do we use I.E technique to improve the efficiency of an organization?
As we noticed in above efficiency equation, to increase efficiency we have two things,
1) To increase nominator
2) Or decrease the denominator
To increase nominator,
Total SMV of a product is a constant which can not be increased. But we can
increase no of produced garments.
To decrease the denominator,
It must be reduced no of working minutes and total number of the operators. In
other way we should keep optimum manpower in the plant. That means we should reduce
man to machine ratio as much as possible and minimum no of working hours per day.
Simply to increase the efficiency of the plant it required to get optimum
production with optimum no of operators with limited time duration.
To get better output by using optimum output following factors should be considered.
1) Lost hours should be minimized.
2) Induction time should be minimized
3) Production should be planned properly.
4) Frequent style changes should be avoided.
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22. Lost hour calculation
Especially in a garment factory lost hour calculation is very important. This
should be done daily basis and should be send all the management staff including G.M,
Directors/ CEO. Hence automatically we can reduce the lost hours (delays) due to
supporting department. Normally these lost hours will appear when the factory has poor
planning department.
Importance of lost hour calculations
1) Can be identified the real bottle necks.
2) By analyzing lost hours direct solutions to the problems can be given.
3) Can be calculated lost pieces due to lost hours
4) Planning department can be improved.
How to minimize the lost hours
Lost hours can be minimizing with proper planning. How to plan?
1) Before starting the work order trial run should be completed and evaluating
2) Before starting the work order pre production meeting should be arranged.
3) Before starting the work order line layout and required machines should be
completed
4) Before starting the work order all the accessories should be available
5) Before starting the work order manpower allocation should be planned for the
new style.
6) After starting the work order spare machines should be available to replace out of
order machines.
7) To avoid the long learning time mechanical, IE, and Quality staff must 100%
attend to the production line when the line is feeding.
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23. How to control waste in garment industry?
There are several factors to be noticed when controlling the waste in the garment factory.
1) To reduce (control) the defective garments
2) To reduce the cutting wastage
3) Control the extra working time (Overtime)
4) Power saving (Electricity, fuel, etc.)
5) Controlling of paper wastage
6) Other wastages
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25. FABRIC INSPECTION
The first step to be carried out when received from the supplier is to inspect the
fabric.
In the fabric inspection department four point system is been used for bales, rolls
& Piece Goods Inspection.
Procedure
As soon as the fabric received, the fabric inspection department inspects the
fabric.
From the supplier the fabric is received in the form of Rolls.
According to the order placed, they place 5% extra order to the supplier to meet
the requirement.
Fabric received in the form of Takas may be of length usually 100 meters, but it
can be 45 or 65 meters also.
Every fabric has to be inspected 100% incase 15% with the consent of concerned
merchandiser approvals.
Then the Takas or Rolls are inspected in full width on the table or machine under
the good light for defects analyses.
They are following Four Point System, in which total 100 meters of fabric is
inspected and, if the points allotted for 100 meters are
Less than (<) 40 points is
Accepted
More than (>) 40 points is
Rejected
Check the fabric length & width & compare against the length declared by the
supplier.
Fabric width 1½’’ to 2’’ tolerance of specified width is accepted.
For every lot / every fabric order keep 1mts of fabric for lab testing & for quality
standard reference.
Inspection reports are produced. Copies of the report are presented to concerned
merchandiser & department.
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26. Grading of fabric depending on points
Points Grading Color
Up to 44 Standard fabrics Green
44 to 60 Sub standard fabric Yellow
Above Defect fabric Red (reject)
Shade segregation
100% shade segregation is done. 1/4th meters strip is cut across the width of each
roll or takas.
Color matching is done by using, PARAMOUNT color matching cabinet.
Shade band of 10 * 10 swatches is prepared.
Shade bands are sending to concerned merchandiser, sourcing & cutting
department for approval.
Then they are sort for the shades and the Takas or rolls are sorted according to the
shade variation.
They ensure that same shade is been loaded to cutting.
After inspection fabric is packed in bundle form as per the shades and width, and
then issued to the cutting department
Piece goods quality inspection report
Supplier name
Fabric code / color
Po no
Style
Group of fabric
Acceptable points
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29. CUTTING
Cutting is the very first process in garment manufacturing. The cutting department
receives the fabric from the fabric department after inspection.
Objectives of the department
Cutting according to the master patterns with 100% accuracy.
Ensuring 100% quality in cutting.
100% issue of all the parts to sewing section.
The cutting floor is a combined unit for spreading, cutting, ticketing and bundling.
The work of cutting department starts right from the point of order being received from
the buyer by the merchandising department.
The CAD department prepares the marker using the patterns prepared by the
Sampling Department. It also prepares the CAD-Consumption Worksheet and makes
estimation for the consumption of the fabric for that particular order. The results are then
communicated to merchandiser.
Manual spreading is done here. Cutting department also has straight knife and band
knife. Band knife is used to cut small components like moon patch, placket, sleeves etc.
Types of cutting
1) Auto cutting
2) Manual cutting
Auto Cutting
Automation is justified only if it is used to the fullest extent. The intention is to
de-skill and increase production, and wherever possible economize on cost. All the three
purposes should be achieved; otherwise the advantage of automation may not be one
hundred percent. Use laser for cutting, cutting is done by machines, using command
system.
Manual Cutting
Here cutting and spreading is done by manual method, skill level is most
important factor in the manual cutting and spreading.
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30. The procedure followed in manual cutting
The fabric is inspected for shade
The fabric consumption ratio is calculated
The lay record is prepared
The lay is spread according to the lay record
The lay marker is spread over it
The size labels are placed on the marked parts.
The straighter cutting is been carried out
Then it is sent to band knife cutting for accuracy in shape
The numbering of parts is done based on sizes & lay
The stripes and check fabrics are sent for relaying where the proper alignment of
stripes & checks of different parts for matching.
Pinning is done for pockets and darts for proper alignment
Edge cutting is done for stripe & check fabrics
The interlinings are also cut
After cutting the shade checking is done
Then it goes to auditing
Re cutting is done
Cutting Tools
1) Powered Scissors
These are used for cutting one or two plies and are often used in the sampling room. ‘
2) Round Knife
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31. This is a very fast machine, excellent for cutting the straight lines or gradual curves.
Blade sizes range from 4 cm to 20 cm in diameter and the effective cutting height is
about 40% of the blade diameter.
3) Straight Knife
The workhorse of most of the cutting rooms, the straight knife, if correctly used is
versatile and accurate enough for most of the purposes.
4) Band Knife
The narrow blade of this machine allows the finest of the shapes to be cut very
accurately. Some band knife machines have air flotation tables which support the block
of work on a fine air cushion, enabling the cutter to man oeuvre the work during cutting
with the minimum disturbance to the plies.
Round Knife Straight Knife Band Knife
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32. Cutting procedure
Marker Making
Marker making is the process of determining the most efficient method of placing
pattern pieces for a specified style.
Types of Markers
Manual/Master Patterns
Computerized/GGT Patterns
Open Marker
Closed Marker
Marker efficiency
Marker efficiency is determined by fabric utilization, the percentage of total fabric
that is actually used in garment part.
Total area of the component patterns in a layout * 100
(Total width of the layout) *(total length of layout)
Splice marks
Splice marks are the point in markers where fabric can be cut and next piece
overlapped to maintain a continuous spread.
Dimensions of Markers
Dimension of marker shows the marker specific area
So that we can adjust it according to the plan width and length
Fabric Stores
Receiving of fabrics
Fabric comes to stores directly from knitting house. For every particular batch
samples comes with audit report from audit department in process house of knits. Audit
report contains all information regarding the fabric and trims of that particular batch.
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33. Storing of fabric
Fabric is stored according to the buyer’s name. Every buyer is allocated a specific
rack in storeroom, so batch for that particular buyer is stored in that rack.
There is no further segregation in the warehouse area.
Issuing of Fabric
Cut plan department sends the required of fabric with other data to the store
incharge. Required fabric is then allocated to cutting room from the stores.
Fabric rolls are received in trolley. It is ensured that all fabric rolls are loaded
uniformly. One trolley carries a max of 15 rolls.
Easing Of the Fabric (Relaxation)
After the issue of fabric if fabric is single jersey it is taken for relaxation process.
Here fabric is simply unrolled by the manual.
In this section handling of fabric is done manually bare handed.
Marker planning and marker making
Marker planning is done in other unit. In this unit, just arrangement of marker is
done according to the width of the fabric and gsm of the fabric. New marker is then
uploaded in the cam machine.
Lay planning
Lay planning is done in data-entry department according to the marker plan and
the order of the customer.
Types of fabric laying
Face to face alternative plies: For symmetrical pattern pieces, and fabric which
is stable spread face to face, the fabric can be spread along face up and
immediately back again face down.
Face up alternative plies: For asymmetrical as well as symmetrical pattern
pieces and fabric which is stable spread all the same way up, the fabric can be
spread along and immediately back again.
Face up all plies in the same direction: For asymmetrical as well as symmetrical
pattern pieces and fabric which is stable all the same way up, the spreader spreads
in one direction only.
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34. Face to face all plies in the same direction: For symmetrical pattern pieces, and
fabric, which is stable face to face, the spreader spreads in one direction only.
Spreading
The main objective of spreading is to spread the fabric lay accurately as per the
length of the maker with minimum waste at end of a lay.
Types of Spreading
1) Automatic spreading
2) Manual spreading
Automatic Spreading
Automatic spreading is done for the solid dyed fabric only. After relaxation of
fabric; fabric is kept on the spreading tables. From here they are loaded on automatic
spreader.
Manual Spreading
Manual spreading is done for the yarn died fabric and for the fabric that has to be
sent for washing. After the fabric is issued from warehouse, it is first blocked, then two
persons lay fabric according to the length of marker.
Generally lay is of length of one full piece of t-shirt. A layer of 65-100 pieces is made
according to the cut plan. During spreading all the plies are matched stripe to stripe on
both the sides by workers.
A separate room is allotted to stripe spreading, cutting and bundling the fabrics which
were yarn dyed.
Following are the factors causing delay in cutting department
Spreader stoppage because of nap direction
Defect marks
Splicing
Utilizing end bits
Paper work
Measure length and width of ply
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35. Material flow
Issue of fabric from knits store
Spreading
Relaxation
Laying of patterns (if manual
spreading)
Cutting
Sorting & Sticker pasting
Bundling
CPI (cut panel inspection)
Issue to the sewing department
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37. Induction
After cutting 100% inspection of cut panels is done.
Rejected pieces are replaced so that it may not disturb stitching
In induction quantity of the cut panels is make sure
In induction quality of cut panels is checked to reduce human errors
In induction bar codes are generated against related work order.
Re-bundling is done according to work order detail
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39. STITCHING
What is Stitching?
This is the main assembly stage of the production process, where sewers stitch
fabric pieces together, and a garment is assembled.
What is Machine?
Combination of different mechanical parts, which reduces the human effort to
achieve target.
There are several types of machines for stitching but usually use. . .
1) Flat Lock
2) Over Lock
3) Lock Stitch
More discussion about these machines
Flat Lock
The machine in which we can use three or multi needles, mostly we use three-
needle machine. There are two lopper, spreader set lower lopper. Here we use five
threads. It can be run without cloth and complete the stitch but in other machines, this is
not possible.
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40. Practical Work
I learned about threading. Tension between every stitch dialer must be accurate.
After the threading we must be know machine proper working. For this, we run the
machine and check the stitch. If there is any missing it is clear from the stitch.
During threading
Machine should be off
Needles must be down
Errors
There is no proper setting of threading
Sometime when threading any machine needles are up due these needles can
break.
Efficiency
Proper oil supply
Clean the machines after closing work.
There must be operators are trained.
Proper maintenance
Faults
We must know about needle number
Oil staining
Needle hole
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41. Over Lock
An over lock stitch sews over the edge of one or two pieces of cloth for edging,
hemming or seaming. Usually an over lock sewing machine will cut the edges of the
cloth as they are fed through (such machines are called ‘sergers’ in North America),
though some are made without cutters. The inclusion of automated cutters allows over
lock machines to create finished seams easily and quickly.
An over lock sewing machine differs from a lockstitch sewing machine in that it
uses loppers fed by multiple thread cones rather than a bobbin.
Loppers serve to create thread loops that pass from the needle thread to the edges
of the fabric so that the edges of the fabric are contained within the seam.
Over lock sewing machines usually run at high speeds, from 1000 to 9000 rpm,
and most are used in industry for edging, hemming and seaming a variety of fabrics and
products.
Practical Work
Over lock stitches are traditionally used for edging and light seaming. Other
applications include: Sewing netting, edging emblems, rolled hemming, decorative
edgingI learned about threading. Tension between every stitch dialer must be accurate.
After the threading, we must know machine proper working. For this, we run the machine
and check the stitch. If there is any missing it is clear from the stitch.
41
42. During threading
Machine should be off
Needles must be down
Errors
There is no proper setting of threading
Sometime when threading any machine needles are up due these needles can
break.
Efficiency
Proper oil supply
Clean the machines after closing work.
There must be operators are trained.
Proper maintenance
Faults
We must know about needle number
Oil staining
Needle hole
Needle Number
42
43. Lock Stitch
A lock stitch sewing machine binds cloth together with two spools of thread and a
needle with the eye at its base. Distinct from a chain stitchmachine, a lockstitch sewing
machine makes strong, straight seams.
It was the first kind of commercial sewing machine to secure a patent, enter
manufacturing, and place automatic sewing in the hands of millions of households.
The machine in which we can use single needle, there is no lopper. Here we use shuttle
for other thread. In the shuttle, there is bobbin.
It may be double needle but mostly we use single needle lock stitch machine.
Here we use two thread one for needle and other from shuttle. Stitch of this machine is
strong from the other machines.
Practical Work
The first spool sits on top of the machine. Its thread runs through a tension arm to
feed it smoothly. Then it threads into a needle's eye, located at its base. The needle
attaches to a foot that can press the fabric against a feed. The second thread, on another
bobbin, is hidden in a compartment beneath the foot.
This thread gets pulled on a shuttle to loop around the thread from above. The needle
stitches up and down either by a manual foot treadle or a motor controlled by pedal.
During threading
Machine should be off
Needles must be down
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44. Errors
There is no proper setting of threading
Sometime when threading any machine needles are up due these needles can
break.
Efficiency
Proper oil supply
Clean the machines after closing work.
There must be operators are trained.
Proper maintenance
Faults
We must know about needle number
Oil staining
Needle hole
Conclusion
These types of machines cannot be used for normal purpose. But for making a
complete garment their importance cannot be denied. Special care and sufficient
knowledge is necessary for proper working.
Otherwise faulty sewing may be done. I would like to give special thanks to our
teacher. I am also grateful to our instructors. I think this will be very helpful in my future
life.
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45. Quality Control (Q.C)
Introduction
Quality means customer needs is to be satisfied. Failure to maintain an adequate
quality standard can therefore be unsuccessful. But maintaining an adequate standard of
quality also costs effort. From the first investigation to find out what the potential
customer for a new product really wants, through the processes of design, specification,
controlled manufacture and sale.
There are a number of factors on which quality fitness of garment industry is
based such as - performance, reliability, durability, visual and perceived quality of the
garment. Quality needs to be defined in terms of a particular framework of cost.
Objectives
To maximize the production of goods within the specified tolerances correctly the
first time.
To achieve a satisfactory design of the fabric or garment in relation to the level of
choice in design, styles, colors, suitability of components and fitness of product
for the market
Quality Control
Quality is of prime importance in any aspect of business. Customers demand and
expect value for money. As producers of apparel there must be a constant endeavor to
produce work of good quality.
The systems required for programming and coordinating the efforts of the various
groups in an organization to maintain the requisite quality". As such Quality Control is
seen as the agent of Quality Assurance or Total Quality Control.
In the garment industry quality control is practiced right from the initial stage of
sourcing raw materials to the stage of final finished garment. For textile and apparel
industry product quality is calculated in terms of quality and standard of fibers, yarns,
fabric construction, color fastness, surface designs and the final finished garment
products. However quality expectations for export are related to the type of customer
segments and the retail outlets.
Quality control and standards are one of the most important aspects of the content of any
job and therefore a major factor in training.
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46. Quality Assurance
Quality Assurance is similar to quality control. The fundamental principal is that
manufacturers and suppliers wish to maintain control over the quality of their clothing,
fabric, footwear, fashion accessories etc.
In order to manufacturer high quality garments, companies involved in
manufacturing need to maintain some sort of quality assurance or quality control plan and
procedures. The QA activities should include factory monitoring, testing, inspections,
audits etc.
Below are only a few issues that are relevant to the quality assurance of clothing:
Fabric Defects
Quality Control Managers
Piece Goods Inspection
Cutting Room Quality Control
In-Process Quality Control
Quality Related Problems in Garment Manufacturing
Sewing defects
Color effects
Sizing defects
Garment defects
Sewing defects
Like open seams, wrong stitching techniques used, same color garment, but usage
of different color threads on the garment, miss out of stitches in between, creasing of the
garment, erroneous thread tension and raw edges are some sewing defects that could
occur so should be taken care of.
Color effects
Color defects that could occur are - difference of the color of final produced
garment to the sample shown, accessories used are of wrong color combination and
mismatching of dye amongst the pieces.
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47. Sizing defects
Wrong gradation of sizes, difference in measurement of a garment part from
other, for example- sleeves of 'XL' size but body of 'L' size. Such defects do not occur has
to be seen too.
Garment defects
During manufacturing process defects could occur like - faulty zippers, irregular
hemming, loose buttons, raw edges, improper button holes, uneven parts, inappropriate
trimming, and difference in fabric colors.
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49. FINISHING & PACKING
Finishing is done before packing. It is been carried out before or after washing as
per the buyer requirement or dependent on the fabric. The garments from the production
section are sent for washing by segregating them on the basis of sizes, shades. The main
objective of finishing is to finish the garment as per buyer requirement and present more
effectively. Packing is the final stage of garment industry for shipment of goods. The
main objective of packing is easy transportation of goods. It is also done to maintain the
quality norms of the garment. Packing of the garment is done depending on the buyer
requirement.
In-process flow in finishing
Unwashed Garments
Garments received from the batch audit
Quality and measurement inspection
Button section
Segregation
Trimming
Thread sucking
Rough ironing
Final quality and measurement check
Final ironing
Presentation checking
Folding as per the buyers specifications
Packing
Pack audit
Shipment
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50. Washed Garments
Garments received from the batch audit
Quality and measurement inspection
Button section
Dispatching (as per size)
Washing
Trimming
Thread sucking
Rough ironing
Final quality and measurement check
Final ironing
Presentation checking
Folding as per the buyers specifications
Packing
Pack audit
Shipment
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51. List of major Defects
Brand, care or size label missing
Shading
Wrong color
Fabric flaw defect
Hole in fabric
Damage
Conspicuous repair
Poor construction
Conspicuous soilage (inside or outside)
Conspicuous abrasion marks from wash process
High/ low pockets
Exposed zipper tape
Buttons, snap defect
Button hole raveling, incomplete, not cut properly/ miss aligned
Sizing problem
Poorly trimmed garment threads
Broken stitches
Skipped stitches
Open seam
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52. CONCLUSION
After critical and deep study of all types of production systems that are used in
apparel industry and comparison of production systems with respect to productivity we
realized the importance of a good production system in sewing unit. An efficient
production system can be used to reduce the off standard performance and increase the on
standard performance. Since the function of sewing department mainly depends on the
type of production system, its correct choice cannot be further emphasized. Handling
time is the major part of sewing operation which can be minimized as the needle time
remains constant in all types of systems.
Production systems are the key success factor for every company to reduce the
cost and boost the efficiency and productivity of sewing unit.
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