INDIAN TRADITIONAL TEXTILES
BY : SAYALI S. BHAMARE
MSc (FD) 2nd YEAR

INDEX
1. OBJECTIVES
2. REGIONAL SPECIALITY MAP
3. PAITHANI OF MAHARASHTRA
4. GHARCHOLA SAREE
5. KOTA DORIA
6. ODISA IKAT
7. BAGRU PRINTS
8. POCHAMPALLI
9. KASHMIR CARPETS

OBJECCTIVES
• To introduce Indian regional traditional textiles
• To study details of them
• To give them a new life in fashion world as they
are replaced by western culture
• To raise the importance of Indian tradition
• To create impact on international fashion trends

PAITHANI
KOTA DORIA
BAGRU PRINTS
KASHMIR
CARPETS
GHARCHOLA
SAREE
POCHAMPALLY
SAREE
ODISA
IKAT
CHANDERI
SAREE
BANARASI
SAREE
PHULKARI
KANJIVARAM
SAREE

PAITHANI OF MAHARASHTRA
• Paithani saree took its name from a place called
Paithan.
• This saree is made of silk with an ornamented zari
pallav and border.
• Traditional vines and flowers, shapes of fruits and
stylized forms of birds are used as motifs in this
saree.
• No mechanical means like the jacquard or jala are
used to create the designs in Paithani sarees.
• It also needs lots of hard work and expertise to
make this fine fabric.
• So, price of this painstaking workman ship is
always high.
• Nearly a month's time is spent in completing a
piece of simple Paithani saree, and from five to nine
months is spent to complete its more elaborate
(brocade) version.

GHARCHOLA OF GUJRAT
• Gharchola (also known as Ghatchola and Gharcholu) from Gujarat is woven on
Cotton or Silk fabric in large checks of using Silk and Zari threads.
• This is further colored in Bandhani or tie & dye technique.
• These checkered patterns are filled with small golden motifs of peacocks, lotus,
human figures, and floral designs.
• A typical Gharchola is made in Red color, embellished with yellow and white
dots, and is 5.5 metres in length & 46 inches in width.
• This saree makes a wedding or any other ritual for that matter, a scenic and
picturesque occasion.

KOTA DORIA OF RAJSTHAN
• Kota doria or Kota doriya or 120i is
one of many types of saree garments
made at Kota, Rajasthan and its
nearby area.
• 'Doria' means thread.
• Sarees are made of pure cotton and
silk and have square like patterns
known as khats on them.
• Kota Doria is woven on a traditional
pit loom in such a fashion that it
produces square checks pattern on the
fabric.
• They smear onion juice and rice paste
with a lot of care into the yarn making
the yarn so strong that no additional
finishing is needed.
• Kota sarees are popularly known as
'Masuria' in Kota and Kotadoria
outside the state.

ODISA IKAT
• Odisa ikat is a kind of ikat, a resist dying
technique, originating from Indian state of Odisa.
• Also known as "Bandha of Odisha", it is a
geaographycally tagged product of Odisha since
2007.
• It is made through a process of tie-dying the warp
and weft threads to create the design on the loom
prior to weaving.
• The fabric gives a striking curvilinear appearance.
• Sarees made out of this fabric feature bands of
brocade in the borders and also at the ends, called
anchal or pallu.
• Its forms are purposefully feathered, giving the
edges a "hazy and fragile" appearance.
• Ikat's equivalent usage in Malay language is
mengikat, which means "to tie or to bind".

BAGRU PRINT OF RAJASTHAN
• The Sanganer and Bagru prints are very similar.
The prints of Bagru are mostly red and black and
blue.
• Bagru prints are characterized by circular
designs, as well as linear and floral patterns.
• In both the Sanganer and Bagru prints, the
colors are picked carefully.
• Each has a separate significance.
• For instance, red is the color of love, yellow of
spring, indigo of Lord Krishna, and saffron of the
yogi (seer).
• The wooden blocks that are used are made of
teak wood.
• Traditionally, vegetable dyes made of madder,
pomegranate rind, indigo, and turmeric are used.
• These have now been largely replaced by
chemical dyes. Often, the fabric is dyed before it is
printed.

POCHAMPALLY OF TELANGANA
• Pochampally Saree or Pochampalli Ikat is a saree
made in Telangana state, India.
• They are popular for their traditional geometric
patterns in ikat style of dyeing.
• The Indian government's official air carrier, Air
India air hostesses wear specially designed
pochampally silk sarees.
• The weaving survives in a few villages like
Pochampally, Koyalgudam, Chowtuppala, Srirpuram,
Bhubangiri, Chuigottala and Galteppala and few
villages around them mostly in Nalgonda district.
• Pochampally Ikat uniqueness lies in the transfer of
intricate design and colouring onto warp and weft
threads first and then weave them together globally
known as double ikat textiles.
• The fabric is cotton, silk and sico – a mix of exquisite
silk and cotton.
• Increasingly, the colours themselves are from
natural sources and their blends.

KASHMIR CARPETS
• Kashmir rugs or carpets have intricate
designs that are primarily oriental, floral style
in a range of colors, sizes and quality.
• Kashmir carpets are handmade, hand-
knotted, and are primarily made in pure wool,
pure silk and occasionally wool and silk
blends.
• Rugs from Kashmir are traditionally made
in oriental, floral designs that typically involve
the significant and culturally important motifs
such as the paisley, chinar tree, (the oriental
plane) and tree-of-life.
• It is often said in Kashmir folklore that a
home is incomplete without a soul - a Kashmir
carpet, which is told to "bring the entire
house together" into a unified whole.