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C H A P T E R TWENTY-SEVEN

                                      CHARCUTERIE




                              “      There are only two questions to ask about food. Is it good?
                             And is it authentic? We are open [to] new ideas, but not if it means



                                                                                                          ”
                                                     destroying our history. And food is history.
                                             – Guiliano Bugialli, quoted in The New York Times, May 9, 1984




                                                                                                      Copyright ©2011 by Pearson Education, Inc.
On Cooking: A Textbook of Culinary Fundamentals, 5e
                                                                                                                  publishing as Pearson [imprint]
Labensky • Hause • Martel
After studying this unit                                                                                  2




                                                                                                CHARCUTERIE
   You will be able to:
     – Prepare a variety of forcemeats
     – Assemble and cook a variety of pâtés, terrines
       and sausages
     – Understand the proper methods for brining,
       curing and smoking meats and fish
     – Identify several cured pork products




                                                          Copyright ©2011 by Pearson Education, Inc.
    On Cooking: A Textbook of Culinary Fundamentals, 5e
                                                                      publishing as Pearson [imprint]
    Labensky • Hause • Martel
Forcemeats                                                                                                3




                                                                                                CHARCUTERIE
   A preparation made from uncooked ground meats,
    poultry, fish or shellfish that is seasoned and then
    emulsified with fats
   Used as the primary ingredient to make pâtés,
    terrines, galantines and sausages
   Textures vary from smooth and velvety to well-
    textured and course




                                                          Copyright ©2011 by Pearson Education, Inc.
    On Cooking: A Textbook of Culinary Fundamentals, 5e
                                                                      publishing as Pearson [imprint]
    Labensky • Hause • Martel
Fat Emulsification                                                                                        4




                                                                                                CHARCUTERIE
   To ensure proper emulsification of a forcemeat:
     – The ratio of fat to other ingredients must be
       precise
     – Temperatures must be maintained below 41°F
       (5°C)
     – The ingredients must be mixed properly




                                                          Copyright ©2011 by Pearson Education, Inc.
    On Cooking: A Textbook of Culinary Fundamentals, 5e
                                                                      publishing as Pearson [imprint]
    Labensky • Hause • Martel
Forcemeat Ingredients                                                                                       5




                                                                                                  CHARCUTERIE
   Meats
     – Dominant meat is what gives the forcemeat its name and essential flavor
   Fats
     – Add moisture and richness
   Binders
     – Panada
                Crustless white bread soaked in milk
     – Eggs
   Seasonings
     – Salt, curing salt, marinades and various herbs and spices
   Garnishes
     – Meat, fats, vegetables or other foods added in limited quantities to
       provide contrasting flavors, textures and colors




                                                            Copyright ©2011 by Pearson Education, Inc.
     On Cooking: A Textbook of Culinary Fundamentals, 5e
                                                                        publishing as Pearson [imprint]
     Labensky • Hause • Martel
Special Seasonings                                                                                        6




                                                                                                CHARCUTERIE
   Curing salt
     – Mixture of salt and sodium nitrite
     – Controls spoilage and bacteria growth
     – Preserves the pink color of the meat


   Pâté spice
     – A mixture of spices and herbs that can be
       premixed and used as needed



                                                          Copyright ©2011 by Pearson Education, Inc.
    On Cooking: A Textbook of Culinary Fundamentals, 5e
                                                                      publishing as Pearson [imprint]
    Labensky • Hause • Martel
Equipment Needed                                                                                          7




                                                                                                CHARCUTERIE
   Food grinder
   Food processor
   Drum sieve
   Standard meat grinder

    –    With various-sized
         grinding dies




                                                          Copyright ©2011 by Pearson Education, Inc.
    On Cooking: A Textbook of Culinary Fundamentals, 5e
                                                                      publishing as Pearson [imprint]
    Labensky • Hause • Martel
Preparing Forcemeats                                                                                      8




                                                                                                CHARCUTERIE
   Preparations include potentially hazardous foods
     – Temperature controls must be strictly maintained
     – All food contact surfaces and cutting boards must be
         sanitized
   To ensure proper emulsification, forcemeats must be kept
    below 41°F
     – Grinder and food processor parts should be chilled or
         frozen
   All foods must be cut into small sizes to fit into the grinder
     – Do not overstuff grinders or food processors




                                                          Copyright ©2011 by Pearson Education, Inc.
    On Cooking: A Textbook of Culinary Fundamentals, 5e
                                                                      publishing as Pearson [imprint]
    Labensky • Hause • Martel
Three Common Forcemeat
Preparations                                                                                               9




                                                                                                 CHARCUTERIE
   Country-style
     – Simplest to prepare
     – Heavily seasoned
   Basic
     – Smoother and more refined
     – Probably the most versatile of all
   Mousseline
     – Light, airy and delicately flavored
   Quenelles
     – Small, dumpling-shaped portions of mousseline




                                                           Copyright ©2011 by Pearson Education, Inc.
     On Cooking: A Textbook of Culinary Fundamentals, 5e
                                                                       publishing as Pearson [imprint]
     Labensky • Hause • Martel
Using Forcemeats                                                                                      10




                                                                                                CHARCUTERIE
   Terrines
     – Baked in an earthenware mold
   Pâtés or pâtés en croûte
     – Fine savory meat filling wrapped and baked in a crust
   Galantines
     – Forcemeats wrapped in the skin of the animal and
        poached, served cold
   Ballotines
     – Forcemeats wrapped in the skin of chicken thighs and
        served hot




                                                          Copyright ©2011 by Pearson Education, Inc.
    On Cooking: A Textbook of Culinary Fundamentals, 5e
                                                                      publishing as Pearson [imprint]
    Labensky • Hause • Martel
Types of Terrines                                                                                     11




                                                                                                CHARCUTERIE
   Liver terrines
   Foie gras terrines
   Vegetable terrines
   Brawns or aspic terrines
   Mousse
   Rillettes
   Confits




                                                          Copyright ©2011 by Pearson Education, Inc.
    On Cooking: A Textbook of Culinary Fundamentals, 5e
                                                                      publishing as Pearson [imprint]
    Labensky • Hause • Martel
Procedure for Preparing
Terrines                                                                                           12




                                                                                             CHARCUTERIE
                              1 Lining a mold              3 Placing the herb-
                              with thin slices of          decorated terrine in
                              fatback.                     a water bath.




                               2 Filling the               4 Slicing the
                               terrine with the            finished terrine.
                               forcemeat and
                               garnish.




                                                       Copyright ©2011 by Pearson Education, Inc.
 On Cooking: A Textbook of Culinary Fundamentals, 5e
                                                                   publishing as Pearson [imprint]
 Labensky • Hause • Martel
Procedure for Preparing
Galantines                                                                                         13




                                                                                             CHARCUTERIE
                              1 Butterflying the           3 Using plastic wrap
                              breasts and                  to roll the galantine
                              tenderloins and              into the tight
                              placing a thin layer         cylinder.
                              of meat over the
                              skin.




                               2 Arranging the             4 Securing the
                               forcemeat and               galantine with
                               garnishes in a              heavy-duty
                               cylindrical shape           aluminum foil.
                               across the center
                               of the skin.




                                                       Copyright ©2011 by Pearson Education, Inc.
 On Cooking: A Textbook of Culinary Fundamentals, 5e
                                                                   publishing as Pearson [imprint]
 Labensky • Hause • Martel
Procedure for Preparing
Galantines (cont.)                                                                                                   14




                                                                                                               CHARCUTERIE
                                       5 Slicing the finished product.
                                                                         Copyright ©2011 by Pearson Education, Inc.
 On Cooking: A Textbook of Culinary Fundamentals, 5e
                                                                                     publishing as Pearson [imprint]
 Labensky • Hause • Martel
Sausages                                                                                                  15




                                                                                                    CHARCUTERIE
   Forcemeat stuffed into casings
     – Fresh sausages
             Fresh            ingredients that have not been smoked or
                 cured
    –    Smoked and cooked sausages
             Made     with a raw meat products that have been
                 treated with chemicals, usually the preservative
                 sodium nitrite
    –    Dried or hard sausages
             Made  of cured meat and then air-dried under
              controlled conditions
             May or may not be smoked or cooked


                                                              Copyright ©2011 by Pearson Education, Inc.
    On Cooking: A Textbook of Culinary Fundamentals, 5e
                                                                          publishing as Pearson [imprint]
    Labensky • Hause • Martel
Sausage Components                                                                                    16




                                                                                                CHARCUTERIE
   Sausage meats
     – Forcemeats with particular characteristics
   Sausage casings
     – Natural casings
        Portions of hog, sheep or cattle intestines
     – Collagen casings
        Manufactured from collagen extracted from
         cattle hide



                                                          Copyright ©2011 by Pearson Education, Inc.
    On Cooking: A Textbook of Culinary Fundamentals, 5e
                                                                      publishing as Pearson [imprint]
    Labensky • Hause • Martel
Procedure for Casing
Sausage                                                                                            17




                                                                                             CHARCUTERIE
                              1 Sliding the                3 Supporting and
                              casing over the              guiding the casing
                              nozzle of the                off the end of the
                              sausage stuffer.             nozzle as the
                                                           sausage is extruded
                                                           from the machine
                                                           into the casing.




                               2 Knotting and              4 Twisting the
                               piercing the                sausage into
                               casing with a               uniform links.
                               skewer.




                                                       Copyright ©2011 by Pearson Education, Inc.
 On Cooking: A Textbook of Culinary Fundamentals, 5e
                                                                   publishing as Pearson [imprint]
 Labensky • Hause • Martel
Salt Curing, Brining                                                                                  18




                                                                                                CHARCUTERIE
   Salt curing
     – Process of surrounding the food with salt or a
       mixture of salt, sugar, nitrite-based curing salts,
       herbs and spices
   Brining
     – Soaking or injecting foods with a very salty
       marinade




                                                          Copyright ©2011 by Pearson Education, Inc.
    On Cooking: A Textbook of Culinary Fundamentals, 5e
                                                                      publishing as Pearson [imprint]
    Labensky • Hause • Martel
Smoking                                                                                               19




                                                                                                CHARCUTERIE
   Cold smoking
     – The process of exposing salt cured or brined
       foods to smoke at a temperature of 50°F to
       85°F
   Hot Smoking
     – The process of exposing foods to smoke at a
       temperature of 200°F to 250°F
     – After hot smoking, most foods are fully cooked




                                                          Copyright ©2011 by Pearson Education, Inc.
    On Cooking: A Textbook of Culinary Fundamentals, 5e
                                                                      publishing as Pearson [imprint]
    Labensky • Hause • Martel
Preserved Meat Products                                                                               20




                                                                                                CHARCUTERIE
   Pork Products
     – Bacon
        Canadian bacon
        Pancetta
     – Ham
        Prosciutto, Parma, Jamón, Westphalian ham
   Other cured meats
     – Beef
        Dried beef, Bresaola, smoked poultry




                                                          Copyright ©2011 by Pearson Education, Inc.
    On Cooking: A Textbook of Culinary Fundamentals, 5e
                                                                      publishing as Pearson [imprint]
    Labensky • Hause • Martel
Salt Curing Gravlax                                                                                21




                                                                                             CHARCUTERIE
                              1 Coating the                2 Wrapping the
                              salmon fillet with           fillets in plastic wrap.
                              the salt cure.




                               3 Weighting                 4 Slicing the cured
                               down a pan                  gravlax thinly.
                               placed on top of
                               the wrapped
                               fish.




                                                       Copyright ©2011 by Pearson Education, Inc.
 On Cooking: A Textbook of Culinary Fundamentals, 5e
                                                                   publishing as Pearson [imprint]
 Labensky • Hause • Martel
Glazing Pâté in Aspic Jelly                                                                                                   22




                                                                                                                        CHARCUTERIE
                                              1 Cool the clarified aspic jelly
                                              by slowly stirring it over an ice
                                              bath.




                                                                                    2 Brush or spoon the
                                                                                    aspic jelly over slices of
                                                                                    chilled pâté arranged
                                                                                    on a cooling rack.
                                                                                    Repeat the process
                                                                                    until the coating
                                                                                    reaches the desired
                                                                                    thickness.



                                                                                  Copyright ©2011 by Pearson Education, Inc.
 On Cooking: A Textbook of Culinary Fundamentals, 5e
                                                                                              publishing as Pearson [imprint]
 Labensky • Hause • Martel
Sauce Chaud-Froid                                                                                      23




                                                                                                 CHARCUTERIE
                                       1 Scoring the                        2 Removing
                                       skin of the fish.                    the skin.




                                                           Copyright ©2011 by Pearson Education, Inc.
 On Cooking: A Textbook of Culinary Fundamentals, 5e
                                                                       publishing as Pearson [imprint]
 Labensky • Hause • Martel
Sauce Chaud-Froid (cont.)                                                                                                     24




                                                                                                                        CHARCUTERIE
                                            3 Removing the dark flesh
                                            and preparing the fish for
                                            the first coating of sauce
                                            chaud-froid.
                                                                                               4 Glazing the
                                                                                               fish with the
                                                                                               sauce chaud-
                                                                                               froid.




                                                       5 Decorating the fish with vegetables flowers.
                                                                                  Copyright ©2011 by Pearson Education, Inc.
 On Cooking: A Textbook of Culinary Fundamentals, 5e
                                                                                              publishing as Pearson [imprint]
 Labensky • Hause • Martel

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Chapter 27

  • 1. C H A P T E R TWENTY-SEVEN CHARCUTERIE “ There are only two questions to ask about food. Is it good? And is it authentic? We are open [to] new ideas, but not if it means ” destroying our history. And food is history. – Guiliano Bugialli, quoted in The New York Times, May 9, 1984 Copyright ©2011 by Pearson Education, Inc. On Cooking: A Textbook of Culinary Fundamentals, 5e publishing as Pearson [imprint] Labensky • Hause • Martel
  • 2. After studying this unit 2 CHARCUTERIE  You will be able to: – Prepare a variety of forcemeats – Assemble and cook a variety of pâtés, terrines and sausages – Understand the proper methods for brining, curing and smoking meats and fish – Identify several cured pork products Copyright ©2011 by Pearson Education, Inc. On Cooking: A Textbook of Culinary Fundamentals, 5e publishing as Pearson [imprint] Labensky • Hause • Martel
  • 3. Forcemeats 3 CHARCUTERIE  A preparation made from uncooked ground meats, poultry, fish or shellfish that is seasoned and then emulsified with fats  Used as the primary ingredient to make pâtés, terrines, galantines and sausages  Textures vary from smooth and velvety to well- textured and course Copyright ©2011 by Pearson Education, Inc. On Cooking: A Textbook of Culinary Fundamentals, 5e publishing as Pearson [imprint] Labensky • Hause • Martel
  • 4. Fat Emulsification 4 CHARCUTERIE  To ensure proper emulsification of a forcemeat: – The ratio of fat to other ingredients must be precise – Temperatures must be maintained below 41°F (5°C) – The ingredients must be mixed properly Copyright ©2011 by Pearson Education, Inc. On Cooking: A Textbook of Culinary Fundamentals, 5e publishing as Pearson [imprint] Labensky • Hause • Martel
  • 5. Forcemeat Ingredients 5 CHARCUTERIE  Meats – Dominant meat is what gives the forcemeat its name and essential flavor  Fats – Add moisture and richness  Binders – Panada  Crustless white bread soaked in milk – Eggs  Seasonings – Salt, curing salt, marinades and various herbs and spices  Garnishes – Meat, fats, vegetables or other foods added in limited quantities to provide contrasting flavors, textures and colors Copyright ©2011 by Pearson Education, Inc. On Cooking: A Textbook of Culinary Fundamentals, 5e publishing as Pearson [imprint] Labensky • Hause • Martel
  • 6. Special Seasonings 6 CHARCUTERIE  Curing salt – Mixture of salt and sodium nitrite – Controls spoilage and bacteria growth – Preserves the pink color of the meat  Pâté spice – A mixture of spices and herbs that can be premixed and used as needed Copyright ©2011 by Pearson Education, Inc. On Cooking: A Textbook of Culinary Fundamentals, 5e publishing as Pearson [imprint] Labensky • Hause • Martel
  • 7. Equipment Needed 7 CHARCUTERIE  Food grinder  Food processor  Drum sieve  Standard meat grinder – With various-sized grinding dies Copyright ©2011 by Pearson Education, Inc. On Cooking: A Textbook of Culinary Fundamentals, 5e publishing as Pearson [imprint] Labensky • Hause • Martel
  • 8. Preparing Forcemeats 8 CHARCUTERIE  Preparations include potentially hazardous foods – Temperature controls must be strictly maintained – All food contact surfaces and cutting boards must be sanitized  To ensure proper emulsification, forcemeats must be kept below 41°F – Grinder and food processor parts should be chilled or frozen  All foods must be cut into small sizes to fit into the grinder – Do not overstuff grinders or food processors Copyright ©2011 by Pearson Education, Inc. On Cooking: A Textbook of Culinary Fundamentals, 5e publishing as Pearson [imprint] Labensky • Hause • Martel
  • 9. Three Common Forcemeat Preparations 9 CHARCUTERIE  Country-style – Simplest to prepare – Heavily seasoned  Basic – Smoother and more refined – Probably the most versatile of all  Mousseline – Light, airy and delicately flavored  Quenelles – Small, dumpling-shaped portions of mousseline Copyright ©2011 by Pearson Education, Inc. On Cooking: A Textbook of Culinary Fundamentals, 5e publishing as Pearson [imprint] Labensky • Hause • Martel
  • 10. Using Forcemeats 10 CHARCUTERIE  Terrines – Baked in an earthenware mold  Pâtés or pâtés en croûte – Fine savory meat filling wrapped and baked in a crust  Galantines – Forcemeats wrapped in the skin of the animal and poached, served cold  Ballotines – Forcemeats wrapped in the skin of chicken thighs and served hot Copyright ©2011 by Pearson Education, Inc. On Cooking: A Textbook of Culinary Fundamentals, 5e publishing as Pearson [imprint] Labensky • Hause • Martel
  • 11. Types of Terrines 11 CHARCUTERIE  Liver terrines  Foie gras terrines  Vegetable terrines  Brawns or aspic terrines  Mousse  Rillettes  Confits Copyright ©2011 by Pearson Education, Inc. On Cooking: A Textbook of Culinary Fundamentals, 5e publishing as Pearson [imprint] Labensky • Hause • Martel
  • 12. Procedure for Preparing Terrines 12 CHARCUTERIE 1 Lining a mold 3 Placing the herb- with thin slices of decorated terrine in fatback. a water bath. 2 Filling the 4 Slicing the terrine with the finished terrine. forcemeat and garnish. Copyright ©2011 by Pearson Education, Inc. On Cooking: A Textbook of Culinary Fundamentals, 5e publishing as Pearson [imprint] Labensky • Hause • Martel
  • 13. Procedure for Preparing Galantines 13 CHARCUTERIE 1 Butterflying the 3 Using plastic wrap breasts and to roll the galantine tenderloins and into the tight placing a thin layer cylinder. of meat over the skin. 2 Arranging the 4 Securing the forcemeat and galantine with garnishes in a heavy-duty cylindrical shape aluminum foil. across the center of the skin. Copyright ©2011 by Pearson Education, Inc. On Cooking: A Textbook of Culinary Fundamentals, 5e publishing as Pearson [imprint] Labensky • Hause • Martel
  • 14. Procedure for Preparing Galantines (cont.) 14 CHARCUTERIE 5 Slicing the finished product. Copyright ©2011 by Pearson Education, Inc. On Cooking: A Textbook of Culinary Fundamentals, 5e publishing as Pearson [imprint] Labensky • Hause • Martel
  • 15. Sausages 15 CHARCUTERIE  Forcemeat stuffed into casings – Fresh sausages  Fresh ingredients that have not been smoked or cured – Smoked and cooked sausages  Made with a raw meat products that have been treated with chemicals, usually the preservative sodium nitrite – Dried or hard sausages  Made of cured meat and then air-dried under controlled conditions  May or may not be smoked or cooked Copyright ©2011 by Pearson Education, Inc. On Cooking: A Textbook of Culinary Fundamentals, 5e publishing as Pearson [imprint] Labensky • Hause • Martel
  • 16. Sausage Components 16 CHARCUTERIE  Sausage meats – Forcemeats with particular characteristics  Sausage casings – Natural casings Portions of hog, sheep or cattle intestines – Collagen casings Manufactured from collagen extracted from cattle hide Copyright ©2011 by Pearson Education, Inc. On Cooking: A Textbook of Culinary Fundamentals, 5e publishing as Pearson [imprint] Labensky • Hause • Martel
  • 17. Procedure for Casing Sausage 17 CHARCUTERIE 1 Sliding the 3 Supporting and casing over the guiding the casing nozzle of the off the end of the sausage stuffer. nozzle as the sausage is extruded from the machine into the casing. 2 Knotting and 4 Twisting the piercing the sausage into casing with a uniform links. skewer. Copyright ©2011 by Pearson Education, Inc. On Cooking: A Textbook of Culinary Fundamentals, 5e publishing as Pearson [imprint] Labensky • Hause • Martel
  • 18. Salt Curing, Brining 18 CHARCUTERIE  Salt curing – Process of surrounding the food with salt or a mixture of salt, sugar, nitrite-based curing salts, herbs and spices  Brining – Soaking or injecting foods with a very salty marinade Copyright ©2011 by Pearson Education, Inc. On Cooking: A Textbook of Culinary Fundamentals, 5e publishing as Pearson [imprint] Labensky • Hause • Martel
  • 19. Smoking 19 CHARCUTERIE  Cold smoking – The process of exposing salt cured or brined foods to smoke at a temperature of 50°F to 85°F  Hot Smoking – The process of exposing foods to smoke at a temperature of 200°F to 250°F – After hot smoking, most foods are fully cooked Copyright ©2011 by Pearson Education, Inc. On Cooking: A Textbook of Culinary Fundamentals, 5e publishing as Pearson [imprint] Labensky • Hause • Martel
  • 20. Preserved Meat Products 20 CHARCUTERIE  Pork Products – Bacon Canadian bacon Pancetta – Ham Prosciutto, Parma, Jamón, Westphalian ham  Other cured meats – Beef Dried beef, Bresaola, smoked poultry Copyright ©2011 by Pearson Education, Inc. On Cooking: A Textbook of Culinary Fundamentals, 5e publishing as Pearson [imprint] Labensky • Hause • Martel
  • 21. Salt Curing Gravlax 21 CHARCUTERIE 1 Coating the 2 Wrapping the salmon fillet with fillets in plastic wrap. the salt cure. 3 Weighting 4 Slicing the cured down a pan gravlax thinly. placed on top of the wrapped fish. Copyright ©2011 by Pearson Education, Inc. On Cooking: A Textbook of Culinary Fundamentals, 5e publishing as Pearson [imprint] Labensky • Hause • Martel
  • 22. Glazing Pâté in Aspic Jelly 22 CHARCUTERIE 1 Cool the clarified aspic jelly by slowly stirring it over an ice bath. 2 Brush or spoon the aspic jelly over slices of chilled pâté arranged on a cooling rack. Repeat the process until the coating reaches the desired thickness. Copyright ©2011 by Pearson Education, Inc. On Cooking: A Textbook of Culinary Fundamentals, 5e publishing as Pearson [imprint] Labensky • Hause • Martel
  • 23. Sauce Chaud-Froid 23 CHARCUTERIE 1 Scoring the 2 Removing skin of the fish. the skin. Copyright ©2011 by Pearson Education, Inc. On Cooking: A Textbook of Culinary Fundamentals, 5e publishing as Pearson [imprint] Labensky • Hause • Martel
  • 24. Sauce Chaud-Froid (cont.) 24 CHARCUTERIE 3 Removing the dark flesh and preparing the fish for the first coating of sauce chaud-froid. 4 Glazing the fish with the sauce chaud- froid. 5 Decorating the fish with vegetables flowers. Copyright ©2011 by Pearson Education, Inc. On Cooking: A Textbook of Culinary Fundamentals, 5e publishing as Pearson [imprint] Labensky • Hause • Martel