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Manipur shawls
1. Manipur Shawls
Manipur enjoys a distinct place amongst the handloom zones in India. Handloom industry is
the largest cottage industry in the State and the industry has been flourishing since time
immemorial. Manipuri shawls are woven in all varieties of fabrics and are known for their
exotic designs and motifs.
Design & Pattern:
Manipuri shawls are widely popular for their intricate designs. Beautiful designs are
embroidered on these shawls using threads of different colors. Mainly woven by females,
Manipuri shawls are typically handloom products. Manipuri shawls are woven on wool,
cotton, silk, etc. The shawls are either embroidered or have beautiful applique designs on
them. Exquisite designs are embroidered with motifs of flowers, horses, elephants and
butterflies, etc. Shades of orange, green, blue and red are very common in these designed
shawls.
2. Manipuri shawls are widely popular for their intricate
designs. Beautiful designs are embroidered on these
shawls using threads of different colors. Mainly
woven by females, Manipuri shawls are typically
handloom products. Manipuri shawls are woven on
wool, cotton, silk, etc. The shawls are either
embroidered or have beautiful applique designs on
them.
3. Loom weaving is confined to womenfolk in Manipur. Originally, the raw material
used was cotton yarn as woolen yarn was not known to the Manipuris before the
Second World War. The designs have now been commercialized on fly-shuttle looms;
each and every house has a loom or a fly-shuttle loom in Manipur. However, these
loom weaving caters to the local demands and require-ments only.
4. Motifs used
Exquisite designs are embroidered with motifs of:
flowers,
horses,
elephants and
butterflies, etc.
Colours
Shades of orange, green, blue and red are very common in these designed shawls.
5.
6. Nagaland Shawls
Nagaland is a small hill state located in the extreme North-eastern part of India. The
inhabitants of the state are mostly Naga tribes and their dress materials for everyday use
are mostly produced on the primitive looms spun by the females. Being a hill state the
people out there prefer to wear warm clothes. The distinctive costume & apparel of
Naga tribes comprise of wrappers, shawls, waistcloths, etc.
Fabric:
The tribal shawls from Nagaland are known for their unique designs and motifs. These
shawls are very warm and are gaining popularity day by day. There are around 16 tribes
in Nagaland and each may have its own distinctive design and colour combination in
shawls.
7. Naga Shawls are the hand woven traditional black, red and white combination shawls
used by the tribes of Nagaland. It symbolizes a specific tribe and the wearer’s status in
the society. Each Naga tribe has its own signature shawl. These beautiful shawls are the
sole product of the Naga women’s creativity and wisdom. The threads are taken from the
barks of plants that come up during the monsoon season. It is pried apart and then dried,
boiled with ash, stretched, dyed and rolled on spindles before the actual weaving.
Angami Tribe wears patterns of red and yellow (now being replaced by green) bands, on
black cloth called Lohe. Shawls of the Lotha Tribe are another distinct. Warrior Shawls,
Yimchunger Shawls and shawls of Chang Tribes are the other significant Naga Shawls.
8.
9. Features of Naga Shawl:
One of the common features of Naga shawl is that three pieces are woven separately and
stitched together. In fact, the central stripe is more decorated than the other two, which
generally have more or less the same pattern.
Types of Nagaland Shawls:
Different tribes in Nagaland weave and wear different types shawls. Thus Naga shawls
widely vary on the basis of the design and the tribes using them. Some of the popular
type of Naga shawls are:
Tsungkotepsu Shawl: This is an exclusive male shawl and is one of the most
characteristic cloth of Aos tribe. The shawl is woven on a general dark base. The cloth
has a median white band and on either side of it, there are horizontal bands of contrasting
colors like red, black and white. The median band is painted with a pattern in black,
which includes various symbolic figures.
Rongsu Shawl: It is one of the most decorative shawls worn by the Ao tribes. This is
mainly a male shawl.
10. Angami Naga Shawl: This is a black shawl with thick bold embroidered animal motifs.
These shawls were mainly worn by warriors of Angami tribe. The shawl carries an entire
range of wild animals against a black background divided into horizontal panels by
woven bands of color.
Supong: It is a typical Naga shawl worn by the Sangtam tribe. This is supposed to be
used by rich people. The shawl on a black base has four grey bands at the top and another
four bands of the same color at the bottom.
Rongkhim: It is one of the most attractive shawls worn by Yimchunger Naga tribe. The
shawl is in red and black with narrow grey bands at the two edges. This shawl is mainly
worn by warrior of great renown.
Tsungrem Khim: It is an exclusive female shawl and is popular Yimchunger shawl.
Lotha Shawls: This a typical Naga shawl worn by Lotha tribe. The shawl has several
patterns and indicate the number of social gennas performed by the weaver. Another
common Lotha shawl is known as Sutam, which is a white coloured shawl with broad
dark blue horizontal strips.
15. Costumes of Meghalaya
Costumes in the state of Meghalaya show the ethnicity of the tribes namely the
Garos, Khasi and the Jaintias. Nestled in the peaceful hills of the north-eastern
part of India, the beautiful state of Meghalaya houses these three famous hill
tribes of India. It is interesting to note that the Garos are the most skilled weavers
of the region. Probably, every family earns their livelihood through weaving.
Indeed, the traditional costume for women, called Jainsen, is an unstitched
garment wrapped around to cover the body. It is woven from mulberry silk
cultivated in the local region. The crowning glory of the costume of Meghalaya is
the Endi silk shawl.
Sonidan is the hub of Endi or Errandi silk-production in Meghalaya. The hill
communities rear Philosamia ricini, the silkworm, feeding on castor leaves. These
nature`s artists, the silkworms, produce rich protein fiber and accordingly spin
round the open-ended cocoon. It is from this fibre that the coveted silk is
generated. Endi silk is the product of the domesticated silkworm, Philosamia ricini
that feeds mainly on castor leaves. Sericulture is a popular small-scale industry of
Meghalaya. The silk-weavers use the Endi silk threads to weave splendid shawls,
that are not only warmth-retentive or supple, but assets to boast of. These shawls
are invested with natural soothing shades of white, brown, beige and gold. They
are favorites of not only the local tribal, but also of any fashion-addict of India.
16. The Khasi and Garo tribes of Meghalaya are the most prominent tribes of the
state.
A Khasi man can be identified by his unstitched lower garment or a dhoti, jacket
and a turban. Khasi women wear a two-piece cloth pinned on each shoulder
and a shawl, which are called jainsem and tapmoh respectively.
Garo women on the other hand wear a blouse and tie a long unstitched piece of
cloth called dakmanda around their waist. It is hand-woven, having a 6-10 inch
border with floral motifs.
A Jaintia woman dresses up in a similar manner in a blouse and a striped
sarong called thoh khyrwang.
17. The weaver-ace Garos cater to different forms of costume, in keeping with the
air of the ambience they are residing in. In the remote areas of Garo hill villages,
the women drape eking, a short cloth round the waist, while the men put in a
loincloth. But the Garo women go for a longer version of cotton attire in the
crowded zones. A Garo woman dons a blouse, and wears a Lungi like mantle of
unstitched cloth called Dakmanda, by fastening it round the waist.
The Dakmanda is an example of hand-woven cotton fabric. Its specialty is the
six to ten inch broad borders embellished with attractive motifs or floral patterns.
The Khasi sect comprising fifty percent of the total population in India, emit a
discrete aura, owing to the costume they wear. The traditional costume of the
Khasi man in Meghalaya is unstitched lower apparel, akin to Dhoti, completed
by a jacket and headgear or turban. However, in the recent times, men display
themselves in traditional garments only on social festivals and ceremonies, to
keep the flame of tradition, glowing.
18. Western concept of dressing has entered the realms of costume-design in
Meghalaya. However, the element of tradition is much alive in the costume of the
Khasi women. It entails a Jainsen, concealing till the ankles, which is topped off
by a blouse. Above these garments, she ties the edges of tap-moh khlieh, a
cotton shawl, round her neck or pins at the shoulders, to serve somewhat like an
apron.
During occasions, Ka Jainsem Dhara, a long piece of Assam Muga silk, is added
to this attire, so as to assume a radiant appearance. But the base-material for
these costumes is mill-manufactured, as the Kashis are not so much attached
with weaving today. Another strip of woolen cloth called Jainkup, is used by the
senior women. Jainkup is not so much in vogue among the younger generation.
19. Khasi women, have the affordability to deck themselves in ornaments of pure
gold and silver, made by local jewelry-smiths. The costume of the male members
of the Jaintia tribe bears similarities with that of the Khasi men. However, the
costume of the Jaintia women in Meghalaya is a little different from the other
groups. A Jaintia woman envelops her head with a cloth-piece with checks called
"Kyrshah", at the times of harvest-work in the field. She covers herself from the
shoulders to the ankles, with a velvet blouse, along with a sarong called Thoh
Khyrwang wrapped round her waist. She also ties round her shoulders an
Assam Muga silk cloth, flowing down to the ankles. There exists a practice
among Jaintia men and women, to present themselves in gaudy, resplendent
costumes, on festive and happy occasions.
Dressing without the embellishments of ornaments, is lusterless for Jaintia
women. They adorn themselves with earrings and other ornaments of gold and
silver. It is a custom to dress in head ornaments, like, a silver circlet worn round
the head as a forehead -decoration. Both the Khasis and the Jayantis, flaunt
themselves in a pure gold pendant kown as Kynjri Ksiar.
The elegance and grace inherent to the ethnic costumes of Meghalaya
complements the scenic beauty of the picturesque landscape of Meghalaya.
24. Costumes of Mizoram
Traditional costumes in Mizoram are exclusively
hand-made by the women of the household.
Mizo men wear a piece of cloth, almost 7 feet
long, which is wrapped around the body. In
winter, men wear a long white coat that is
fastened at the throat and reaches up to the
thighs. These coats have beautiful patterns
near the sleeves with bands of red and white.
Men also don a special kind of headgear –
wrapping a piece of cloth around the head so
that the ends fall over each ear.
Mizo women wear a single piece of cloth
wrapped around the waist and reaching up to
the knees. A short white jacket with hand-
woven patterns on top completes the look of
the costume.
25. The attire of the people here is unique. In the case of women, the upper portion
of their body is covered with fine woven cloth in the form of a shirt or blouse
and the lower portion is covered by a finely woven and intricately designed
sarong. The sarongs sometimes are very heavy due to the design work on its
borders. The men generally wear a colorful shirt and a wraparound piece of
cloth around their waist similar to a dhoti.
The hot favorite costume of a Mizoram woman is Puan . The vibrant color and
the outstanding designs are the reasons behind this marvelous costume.
Puanchei , the gorgeous attire of Mizo girls is a must during weddings and
festivals such as `Chapchar Kut` and `Pawl Kut`.
Ngotekherh is a cotton and hand-woven festive-attire apt for kuts i.e. festivals,
namely `Chapchar Kut`, `Mim Kut` and `Pawl Kut`. The shades in the cloth are
black and white. The black portion of the textile is constructed from some kind
of synthetic fur.
26. Kawrchei is akin to Ngotekherh , as it is the costume for revelry and merry-
making. It is a fabulous blouse for Mizo girls. They too are hand-woven and
cotton material. This are usually worn along with `Puanchei` and while
performing the various dances of the Mizos
In earlier times, these were all hand woven but nowadays these are mostly
machine made. They are made from cotton and the colors are made by a thing
called `Ting`. Along with this, a blouse, which is of the same pattern, is usually
worn.
The Lusei men believe in simplicity, when it comes to deciding their traditional
costume. They drape themselves in an almost 7 feet long and 5 wide cloth-
piece. It reaches the left shoulder to the back and then passes under the right
arm, to cover the chest, with the remaining end concealing the left shoulder.
31. In cold season, some additional attires are worn, one on top of the other, along
with a white coat, comes down from the throat enveloping till the thighs. White
and red bands, invested with designs adorn the sleeves of these coats.
During the hot months, people tie these clothes around the waist to feel
comfortable. Moreover, at times to avoid the blazing sun, a Lusei man contrives
a piece of cloth as a turban or Pagri . The entire costume of the Lusei men is
made of cotton , cultivated in the region itself. Usually, the costumes come in
white colour, but sometimes men want to wear other shades, for example, blue
colour bestowed with stripes.
There is hardly any difference existing in the costumes of the ordinary Lusei and
the head of the community. Only during festive occasions, the costume is
different.
The traditional costume of the Lusei women is the dark blue cotton petticoat,
worn round the waist and tightly held by a girdle or belt of brass wire. This is
uniform, worn by all women, stretches itself upto the knees. This petticoat is
topped off by short white jacket and a cloth, wrapped in the same way as the
men`s.
