2. • History
• The prototype for today's zipper was actually a series of hooks and eyes that closed
mechanically (1). It was invented in 1891 by an engineer named Witcomb L. Judson.
First used as a closure for mailbags, tobacco pouches, and boots, Judson's zipper
was eventually adapted for use in clothing and marketed as the "C-Curity Plaket
Fastener." The early zipper was not an immediate success because it was rather
crude and tended to come open.
• The zipper has come a long way since then. At first, zipper teeth were stamped from
metal and clamped to the zipper tape. The metal teeth originally made this process
very rough, and tended to jam the zipper or separate from the tape.
• Major progress was made when the Crown Zipper Co., owned by Coats and Clark
Inc., designed a die-cast zipper in the 1930's. By 1950, die-cast zippers were
produced in Canada by J.&P. Coats. The metal teeth are molded directly onto the
zipper tape, making it almost impossible for them to jam or come loose. The edges
of the zipper teeth are rounded so that they interlock smoothly and easily.
• At the same time, the possibility of a coil zipper was being researched in Europe.
The first coil zipper was made of two interlocking brass coils. However, these coils
could be permanently bent out of shape, making it impossible to operate the zipper.
It wasn't until after the discovery of stronger, more flexible synthetics that a viable coil
zipper could be designed. Coil zippers became an important part of the zipper
market in the early 1960s.
• Developments in technology have improved the quality and performance of zippers.
The coil zipper is made of polyester or nylon coils attached to polyester or polyester
blend tapes. The metal zipper is made of metal teeth that have been die-cast onto, or
stamped-out and clamped onto cotton or cotton blend tapes.
3. Anatomy of A Zipper
A zipper is a closure consisting of
interlocking coils or teeth,
attached to tapes, and
operated by a slider.
Basically, the coils or teeth "hook"
together within the slider (2).
The inside of the slider is
curved, and as the slider is
pulled up, it spreads the coils
or teeth apart. Each coil or
tooth fits snugly between two
or more from the opposite
side. They interlock, and the
tape straightens. (This
procedure is reversed to open
the tape.)
4. • There are two types of conventional zipper construction:
coil and metal.
• Polyester Coil Zippers are lightweight, yet strong.
Polyester coil is stronger than nylon. These zippers are
flexible with low shrinkage and are easy care as they are
heat-resistant and rustproof. The covered back of coil
zippers protect undergarments. The coil is self-healing
and the slider is self-locking.
• Metal Zippers are strong and are especially good for
heavy weight fabrics and sportswear. Die-cast teeth are
smoother than stamped teeth. Enamel is bonded to the
teeth and the slider to prevent colour chipping. Slider is
self-locking. Easy bottom assembly and separation in
separable zipper.
5. Applications for Conventional Zippers
Separating zippers in jackets and vests can be inserted with zipper
teeth covered or exposed. A decorative sport zipper with plastic
teeth is lightweight yet sturdy, for active sportswear.
Lapped application, also called an Invisible zipper, totally conceals the
zipper, making it a good choice for zippers which do not perfectly
match the fabric colour. It is most often used in side seam closings
of dresses, skirts, and pants.
Centered application is most frequently used for center front and
center back closings. Attach facings before inserting zipper.
Waistbands should be applied after zipper is inserted.
Fly-front zipper is often found in pants and skirts, and occasionally on
coats and jackets. Use the fly-front application only when the
pattern calls for it, because it requires the wider underlap and facing
included in the pattern.
6. Zipper Selection
To select the proper zipper length, check the pattern envelope and consider
individual body proportion. Remember that a long zipper opening reduces
the strain on a zipper when getting in and out of a garment.
To choose the appropriate type of zipper, consider the garment design, fabric
weight and colour.
There are 6 types of zippers to choose from, see below:
Polyester all-purpose zippers are suitable for fabrics of all weights in skirts,
pants, dresses and home decorating items.
Metal all-purpose zippers are strong, durable zippers for sportswear as well as
pants, skirts, dresses and home decorating items.
Brass jean zippers are stamped metal zippers with a closed bottom, designed
for jeans, work and casual wear in medium to heavyweight fabrics.
Metal separating zippers, available in medium and heavy weights, are used in
jackets, sportswear and home decorating. Reversible separating zippers
have pull tabs on the front and back of the zipper.
Plastic molded separating zippers are lightweight yet strong and durable,
designed with extra fullness to give a smooth, straight finish to the
application. Their decorative appearance makes them a natural for skiwear
and outdoor wear.
Parka zippers are plastic molded separating zippers with two sliders, so they
can be opened from the top and bottom.
7. Zipper Care
Press zipper area using a press cloth to prevent a shine on
the outside of the garment. Press curved seams over a
pressing ham.
Keep zipper closed during washing and dry cleaning and
while garment is not being worn.
Use beeswax or zipper lubricant if zipper is stiff or difficult
to operate after dry cleaning.
Thread or fabric caught in a polyester coil zipper can be
easily removed without damage to either garment or
zipper. Fold tape right sides together, pinch coil and pull
apart as shown (12). To close again, pull slider down to
bottom stop and then up again.
8. Zipper Foot
• A zipper is installed with the aide
of a zipper foot so that stitching
can be done close to the coil or
teeth. For a conventional zipper,
use a regular zipper foot that
accompanies the sewing
machine. An adjustable zipper
foot permits stitching on either
side of the zipper. This allows
directional stitching and better
placement of seams. No part of
the zipper foot should ride on the
zipper teeth.
• To install an invisible zipper, use
Invisible zipper foot such as one
from Unique®
9. Finishing Touches
Hand Applications
• Completing the final stitching of the zipper application by hand gives a garment a custom look.
Why not take the opportunity to decorate your zipper with embroidery, beading, or sequins.
• Visible stitching is done with a hand backstitch or pickstitch, approximately 6mm (1/4") apart as
shown (13). Use a single length of buttonhole twist sewing thread.
Neck Fastenings
• For fabrics that do not snag, use hooks and eyes. For other fabrics, use extended or hanging
snaps.
• Extended snap (14): Fasten ball sections of snap to inside of neck edges. On opposite side,
attach socket section, sewing through one hole and extending it beyond edge.
• Hanging snap (15): Similar to extended snap, except that socket section is attached to facing with
a French tack.
Waistline Stay
• Alleviates strain on zipper, making it easier to open and close. We recommend it for garments
with waistline gathering, stretchy fabrics, or a skirt heavier than the bodice.
• Lined Garments
PROCEDURE (17):
• Sew lining sections together leaving seam open in zipper area. Fold free edges of lining under
and pin 6mm (1/4") from center of zipper.
• Slipstitch lining to tape.
• Hand stitch a second row of stitches 6mm (1/4") from folded edge.
10. Construction Measurements
Here are some of the metric measurements that are used most often:
• Edgestitching is 1mm from an edge.
• Topstitching is 6mm from an edge.
• Final stitching for a centered zipper application is 6mm from the
seam.
• The width of a seam allowance is 1.5cm.
• The average hem allowance is 5cm.A rolled hem on a sheer fabric
has a depth of 1cm.
• An average skirt zipper is 23cm long.
• A man's trouser zipper is 18cm long.
• The width of a waistband is 3.2cm wide.
