denim , denim washing , wintage denim , denim book , indigo , indigo dye , indigo dyeing , stone washing , enzyme , history of jeans , history of jeans , indigo dyeing , stone washing , enzyme , enzyme washing , garment processing

1. d
n
m
o
k
1
e
i
b
o
DENIMIST
2011
DNMSTDENIMDESINGFASHIONARTLIFE
DB
DENIM BOOK
D E N I M I S T

2. DB
DENIM B O O K
DENIMIST
T U R K E Y
Since
decades
Denimist
has
developed
know-­‐how
in
denim
finishing
prior
to
garment
manufacturing
and
also
in
jeans
washing.
Our
customers
derive
benefit
from
this
experience.For
the
fabric
production
we
offer
finishing
chemicals
which
provide
the
demanded
fabric
properties
such
as
good
sewability,
stiffness,elasticity
and
handle.
The
other
field
of
our
activity
is
the
recommendation
of
laundring
Procedures
for
ready-­‐made
clothing
such
as
trousers,
jackets
or
skirts,
shirts.
In
doing
so
we
have
learned
that
many
errors
may
occur
in
this
complicated
production
process.
The
laundry,
the
last
step
in
the
sequence
of
producers,
is
faced
to
difficulties
which
are
caused
by
previous
inaccuracies.
Therefore,
a
good
cooperation
among
the
steps
of
jeans
manufacturing
is
required
to
avoid
problems.
Fabric
producer,
garment
manufacturer
and
laundries
have
to
work
together
to
obtain
the
desired
end
result.
By
means
of
our
contacts
on
both
sides
of
the
production
process
we
are
able
to
make
our
contribution.
The
technical
stuff
of
Denimist
is
always
ready
to
help
our
customers
with
eventual
problems
and
to
modify
production
procedures
according
to
the
respective
requirements.
Through
our
numerous
contacts
which
we
have
got
with
denim
producers,
garment
manufacturers
and
laundries
during
the
years
we
support
the
team
work
among
all
sections
of
the
jeans
chain
and
make
our
know-­‐how
available
to
all
of
the
parties
concerned

3. DBDENIM B O O K
History
of
Natural
Indigo
A
variety
of
plants
have
provided
indigo
throughout
history,
but
most
natural
indigo
is
obtained
from
those
in
the
genus
Indigofera,
which
are
native
to
the
tropics.
In
temperate
climates
indigo
can
also
be
obtained
from
woad
(Isatis
tinctoria)
and
dyer's
knotweed
(Polygonumtinctorum).
The
primary
commercial
indigo
species
in
Asia
was
true
indigo
(Indigofera
tinctoria,
also
known
as
Indigofera
sumatrana).
In
Central
and
South
America
the
two
species
Indigofera
suffruticosa
(Anil)
and
Indigofera
arrecta
(Natal
indigo)
were
the
most
important.
The
plants
of
the
genus
Indigofera
produce
a
much
stronger
dye
that
those
of
the
Isatis
(woad)
family;
however,
dyer’s
woad
is
much
more
easily
cultivated
and
therefore
more
widely
used
than
Indigofera,
which
needs
a
tropical
climate.
Isatis
tinctoria
grows
up
to
approximately
1.50
m
in
height
and
can
be
harvested
three
times
a
year.
Preparation
of
indigo
dye
with
Indigofera
tinctoria.
A
variety
of
plants
have
provided
indigo
throughout
history,
but
most
natural
indigo
is
obtained
from
those
in
the
genus
Indigofera,
which
are
native
to
the
tropics.
In
temperate
climates
indigo
can
also
be
obtained
from
woad
(Isatis
tinctoria)
and
dyer's
knotweed
(Polygonumtinctorum).
The
primary
commercial
indigo
species
in
Asia
was
true
indigo
(Indigofera
tinctoria,
also
known
as
Indigofera
sumatrana).
In
Central
and
South
America
the
two
species
Indigofera
suffruticosa
(Anil)
and
Indigofera
arrecta
(Natal
indigo)
were
the
most
important.
The
plants
of
the
genus
Indigofera
produce
a
much
stronger
dye
that
those
of
the
Isatis
(woad)
family;
however,
dyer’s
woad
is
much
more
easily
cultivated
and
therefore
more
widely
used
than
Indigofera,
which
needs
a
tropical
climate.
Isatis
tinctoria
grows
up
to
approximately
1.50
m
in
height
and
can
be
harvested
three
times
a
year.

4. DB
DENIM B O O K
Four
months
after
planting
the
seeds
the
leaves
of
the
indigo
plant
start
turning
dark
green
which
indicates
good
quality
dye.
The
plants
are
cut
off
and
made
into
small
bundles.The
leaves
are
then
soaked
in
a
large
earthenware
jar
filled
with
water
and
left
to
be
fermented
in
order
to
convert
the
glycoside
indican
which
is
naturally
present
in
the
plant
to
the
blue
dye
indigotin.
The
precipitate
from
the
fermented
leaf
solution
is
mixed
with
a
strong
base
such
as
lye,
pressed
into
cakes,
dried,
and
powdered.
The
powder
is
then
mixed
with
various
other
substances
to
produce
different
shades
of
blue
and
purple.Four
months
after
planting
the
seeds
the
leaves
of
the
indigo
plant
start
turning
dark
green
which
indicates
good
quality
dye.
The
plants
are
cut
off
and
made
into
small
bundles.The
leaves
are
then
soaked
in
a
large
earthenware
jar
filled
with
water
and
left
to
be
fermented
in
order
to
convert
the
glycoside
indican
which
is
naturally
present
in
the
plant
to
the
blue
dye
indigotin.
DENIMIST

5. DBDENIM B O O K
The
precipitate
from
the
fermented
leaf
solution
is
mixed
with
a
strong
base
such
as
lye,
pressed
into
cakes,
dried,
and
powdered.
The
powder
is
then
mixed
with
various
other
substances
to
produce
different
shades
of
blue
and
purple.
Indigofera
Tinctoria
in
History
The
name
indigo
comes
from
the
Roman
term
indicum,
which
means
a
product
of
India.This
is
somewhat
of
a
misnomer
since
the
plant
is
grown
in
many
areas
of
the
world,
including
Asia,
Java,
Japan,
and
Central
America.
Another
ancient
term
for
the
dye
is
nil
from
which
the
Arabic
term
For
blue,
al-­‐nil,
is
derived.
The
English
word
aniline
comes
from
the
same
source.
The
color
indigo,
often
associated
with
political
power
or
religious
ritual,
has
held
a
Significant
Place
in
many
world
civilizations
such
as
Mesopotamia,
Egypt,
Greece,
Rome,
Mesoamerica,
Iran,
and
Africa
for
thousands
of
years.
In
the
excavation
of
Thebes
an
indigo
Garment
dating
from
c.
2500
B.C.
was
found,
for
example
example
furthermore,
the
Hindu
god
Krishna
is
most
often
depicted
in
blue,
human
Sacrifices
were
DENIMIST

6. DBDENIM B O O K
often
painted
blue
in
ancient
mayan
culture,
and
the
Virgin
Mary
is
regularly
imagined
draped
in
blue
clothes
in
Christian
art.
In
Mesopotamia,
a
Neo
-­‐Babylonian
cuneiform
tablet
of
the
7th
century
BC
gives
a
recipe
for
the
dyeing
of
wool,
where
lapis-­‐colored
wool
(uqnatu)
is
Produced
by
repeated
immersion
and
airing
of
the
cloth.
The
dye
is
first
mentioned
in
a
written
source
for
Western
Europe
in
The
histories
of
Herodotus
writing
around
450
B.C.),
who
described
its
use
in
the
mediterranean
area.
The
Romans
used
merchants.
Indigo
plant
used
to
be
planted
in
Khuzestan
and
other
Southernregions
of
Iran
too.
It
was
at
the
time
of
the
Crusades,
however,
that
indigo
became
one
of
the
valued
“spices”
That
Italian
merchants
acquired
in
Cyprus,
Alexandria
and
Baghdad.
These
cities
were
themselves
end
points
for
caravans
from
the
Far
East.
But
the
trade
in
indigo
dye
only
became
a
Commercial
force
after
1498
with
the
opening
of
the
sea
route
to
India
this
is
not
to
say
that
Europeans
had
no
Other
Way
of
obtaining
deep
blue
dye.
The
woad
plant,
native
to
northern
Italy,
southern
France,
And
parts
of
England
and
Germany,
yielded
indigo-­‐colored
dye
from
its
leaves,
but
it
was
inferior
to
that
Obtained
from
the
indigo
plant.
This
is
not
to
say
that
Europeans
had
no
other
Way
of
obtaining
deep
blue
dye.
The
woad
plant,
native
to
northern
Italy,
southern
France,
And
parts
of
England
and
Germany,
yielded
indigo-­‐colored
dye
from
its
leaves,
but
it
was
inferior
to
that
obtained
from
the
indigo
plant
quite
naturally,
the
woad
-­‐growers
of
Europe
(both
peasants
and
princes)
sought
to
protect
their
industry
against
the
influx
of
affordable
indigo
in
the
16th
century.
In
1598
indigo
was
prohibited
in
France
and
parts
of
Germany,
and
dyers
had
to
swear,
often
on
the
pain
of
death,
that
they
would
not
use
that
dye.
Nevertheless,
in
the
17th
century
indigo
became
one
of
the
chief
articles
of
trade
of
both
the
Dutch
and
the
British
East
India
Companies.
Dauril
Alden
argues
that,
in
fact,
the
indigo
supplies
in
India
were
not
sufficient
to
meet
the
European
demand
in
the
17th
century
and
that
is
why
indigo
cultivation
was
taken
up
in
the
New
World
as
well.

7. DBDENIM B O O K
In
Japan,
indigo
became
especially
important
in
the
Edo
period
,,
also
called
Tokugawa
period,
is
a
division
of
Japanese
history
running
from
1603
to
1868)
when
it
was
forbidden
to
use
silk,
so
the
Japanese
began
to
import
and
plant
cotton.
It
was
difficult
to
dye
the
cotton
fiber
except
with
indigo.
Many
years
later
the
use
of
indigo
is
very
much
appreciated
as
a
color
for
the
summer
Kimono
Yukata,
as
the
blue
sea
and
the
nature
are
recalled
on
this
traditional
clothing.
An
indigenous
variety
of
indigo
began
to
be
cultivated
by
Spanish
overseers
on
the
plantations
of
Honduras
and
the
Pacific
slopes
of
Central
America
in
the
1560s.
The
indigo
plant
was
known
to
early
Guatemalan
colonialists
by
the
Nahuatl
word
xiquilite,
and
the
dye
was
known
to
contemporaries
as
“Guatemalan
Indigo.”
M.
De
Beauvais
Raseau,
writing
about
indigo
cultivation
in
the
Eighteenth
Century,
stated
that
the
Native
Americans
also
knew
about
extracting
from
the
plant.
DENIMIST

8. DBDENIM B O O K
They
called
it
“Tlauhoylimihuitl”
and
used
it
to
darken
their
hair.
It
seems
that
indigo
production
continued
to
increase
throughout
the
17th
century
in
the
New
World.
The
French
colony
of
Saint
Domingo
eventually
became
the
major
producer
of
indigo,
and
this
dye
was
also
of
the
best
quality.
The
English
gained
their
first
indigo-­‐producing
colony
in
this
part
of
the
world
in
1655
when
they
captured
Jamaica
DENIMIST
Engraving
of
an
indigo
plantation
in
the
French
West
Indies,
1760s
This
engraving
shows
slaves
engaged
in
various
jobs
associated
with
indigo
production.
The
steps
are
identified
by
number
in
the
engraving;
an
accompanying
explanation
in
the
text
in
French
describes
each
number.
For
example,
no.
8,
slave
who
carries
the
indigo
plants
into
the
storage
tank
or
steeping
trough;
no.
9,
slave
who
agitate/stir
the
indigo
plants
in
the
steeping
trough
with
baskets
attached
to
the
end
of
poles);
no.
10,
indigo
plants.
M.
Chambon,
Le
commerce
de
l’Amerique
par
Marseille
(Avignon,
1764),
I:365.

9. DB
DENIM B O O K
However,
it
is
unclear
how
important
New
World
indigo
was
in
the
worldwide
indigo
market,
as
prices
fluctuated
and
so
did
production
numbers.
By
1740
sugar
had
replaced
indigo
as
the
main
crop
of
Jamaica,
but,
on
the
other
hand,
this
was
also
the
beginning
of
the
indigo
boom
in
South
Carolina
it
seems
that
“Guatemalan
indigo”
did
not
enjoy
as
high
a
reputation
in
Europe
as
indigo
from
Asian
countries.
In
1746,
when
“A
Friend
to
Carolina”
wrote
his
tract
encouraging
the
cultivation
of
indigo
in
South
Carolina
he
emphasized
the
necessity
of
establishing
a
superior
product:
“All
Kinds
[of
indigo
dyes]
are
better
or
worse,
as
they
are
neat
or
pure;
for
those
who
make
it
in
America,
often
maliciously
mix
it
with
Sand
and
Dirt,
but
the
Cheat
is
easily
discovered;
as
Indigo
that
is
fine
and
pure
will
burn
like
Wax,
and,
when
burnt,
the
Earth
or
Sand
will
remain.”
He
pointed
out
that
in
the
Americas
indigo
dye
was
o6en
made
with
the
stems
and
branches
of
the
plant
instead
of
just
with
the
leaves.
He
felt
that
this
too
might
be
detrimental
to
its
quality
-­‐
“But
one
ought
to
have
the
Leisure
and
PaHence
of
the
Indians,
to
undertake
such
a
Work
[stripping
the
leaves],
and
have
Workmen
as
cheap
as
they
are
in
that
Country.”
He
pointed
out
that
in
the
Americas
indigo
dye
was
o6en
made
with
the
stems
and
branches
of
the
plant
instead
of
just
with
the
leaves.
He
felt
that
this
too
might
be
detrimental
to
its
quality
—
“But
one
ought
to
have
the
Leisure
and
PaHence
of
the
Indians,
to
undertake
such
a
Work
[stripping
the
leaves],
and
have
Workmen
as
cheap
as
they
are
in
that
Country.”
Raseau,
who
was
captain
of
the
miliHa
on
Saint
Domingo
prior
to
1770,
discusses
the
history
of
indigo
in
all
the
regions
of
the
world
where
it
could
be
grown.
He
gives
various
methods
that
were
employed
for
extracHng
the
dye
and
then
goes
into
greater
detail
on
indigo
producHon
in
South
and
Central
America.
His
wonderful
liXle
book
contains
diagrams
of
the
plants,
the
process
of
making
indigo
dye,
as
well
as
the
ideal
plantaHon.
Indigo
plantaHons
did
not
require
much
labor
except
during
July,
August
and
September
when
the
plants
were
cut,
fermented
and
the
dye
was
extracted.
Because
it
was
thought
that
the
Indians
were
parHcularly
suscepHble
to
the
diseases
that
bred
around
the
fermentaHon
vats,
plantaHon
owners
claimed
that

10. DB
DENIM B O O K
they
did
most
of
the
field
work,
while
Black
slaves
extracted
the
dye.
In
reality,
the
division
of
labor
was
probably
not
so
strict
parHcularly
since
Black
slaves
were
in
relaHvely
short
supply
and
were
o6en
more
expensive
to
hire
than
the
Indians.John
Stedman
in
his
"NarraHve
of
five
years"
expediHon
described
the
extracHon
of
the
dye
throughly.
Stedman
was
invited
to
view
the
process
of
making
indigo
dye
at
the
plantaHon
of
the
governor
of
Surinam
and
he
gives
the
following
account
of
it
:
When
all
of
the
verdure
is
cut
off,
the
whole
crop
is
Hed
in
bunches,
and
put
into
a
very
large
tub
with
water,
covered
over
with
very
heavy
logs
of
wood
by
way
of
pressers:
thus
kept,
it
begins
to
ferment;
in
less
than
18
hours
the
water
seems
to
boil,
and
becomes
of
a
violet
or
garter
blue
colour,
extracHng
all
the
grain
or
colouring
maXer
from
the
plant;
in
this
situaHon.
The
liquor
is
drawn
off
into
another
tub,
which
is
something
less,
when
the
remaining
trash
is
carefully
picked
up
and
thrown
away;
and
the
very
noxious
smell
of
this
refuse
it
is
that
occasions
the
peculiar
unhealthiness
which
is
always
incident
to
this
business
Being
now
in
the
second
tub,
the
mash
is
agitated
by
paddles
adapted
for
the
purpose,
Hll
by
a
skillful
maceraHon
all
the
grain
separates
from
the
water,
the
first
sinking
like
mud
to
the
boXom,
while
the
laXer
appears
clear
and
transparent
on
the
surface:
this
water,
being
carefully
removed
Hll
near
the
coloured
mass,
the
remaining
liquor
is
drawn
off
into
a
third
tub,
to
let
what
indigo
it
may
contain
also
seXle
in
the
boXom;
a6er
which,
the
last
drops
of
water
here
being
also
removed,
the
sediment
or
indigo
is
put
into
proper
vessels
to
dry,
where
being
divested
of
its
last
remaining
moisture,
and
formed
into
small,
round,
and
oblong
square
pieces,
it
is
become
a
beauHful
dark
blue,
and
fit
for
exportaHon.
The
best
indigo
ought
to
be
light,
hard,
and
sparkling."
These
blocks
of
indigo
were
what
was
so
highly
prized
on
the
European
market.
Demand
for
indigo
dramaHcally
increased
during
the
industrial
revoluHon,
in
part
due
to
the
popularity
of
Levi
Strauss's
blue
denim
jeans.
The
natural
extracHon
process
was
expensive
and
could
not
produce
the
mass
quanHHes
required
for
the
burgeoning
garment
industry.
In
1865
the
German
chemist

11. DB
DENIM B O O K
Johann
Friedrich
Wilhelm
Adolf
von
Baeyer
began
working
with
indigo.
His
work
culminated
in
the
first
synthesis
of
indigo
in
1880
from
o-­‐
nitrobenzaldehyde
and
acetone
upon
addiHon
of
dilute
sodium
hydroxide,
barium
hydroxide,
or
ammonia
and
the
announcement
of
its
chemical
structure
three
years
later.
BASF
developed
a
commercially
feasible
manufacturing
process
that
was
in
use
by
1897.
In
1905
Baeyer
was
awarded
the
Nobel
Prize
for
his
discovery.
DENIMIST
Workers
in
the
indigo
factory
wearing
denim
work
clothes,
1930s
Jenny
Balfour-­‐Paul,
Indigo
(London:
Bri-sh
Museum
Press,
1998),
85.

12. DBDENIM B O O K
DENIMIST
“Indigo
Manufacture
in
India,”
from
The
Graphic,
1887
“Views
from
the
Illustrated
London
News
and
The
Graphic,”
South
Asia
study
resources
compiled
by
Frances
PritcheK,
hKp://www.
columbia.edu/itc/mealac/pritcheK/00routesdata/1800_1899/
dailylife_drawings/ilnviews/ilnviews.html

13. DB
DENIM BOOK
Head
Office
:
Kazimiye
Mah.
Karadeniz
Cad.
Kiliçoğlu
AlHn
Evler
No:
37/5/21
Çorlu
/
Tekirdağ
/
TURKEY
Ph:
90
282
673
62
40
Fax
:
90
282
673
59
75
eyup@denimist.com.tr
Factory
:
Motor
Yerleri
Mevkii
E-­‐5
Uzeri
Ulaş
/
Corlu
/
Tekirdag
/
TURKEY
mustafa@denimist.com.tr
Pakistan
:
Plot
No:
2/C
Lane
No:
3
Itehad
Coom
Phase
–
VI
D.H.A
Karachi
/
PAKISTAN
Ph:
92-­‐21-­‐37820980
–
35348720
Cell
:
92-­‐300-­‐214430
tanveer@denimist.com.tr
Bangladesh
:
Road
36
,
House
15,
F4,
Gulshan
2,
Dhaka
/BANGLADESH
Cell:
8801741393879
serkan@denimist.com.tr