The ideal adventure for a deeper and more insightful experience of Northwest Yunnan, an area more popularly known as the Greater Shangri-La. See more at http://www.bivou.com
Discover Mathura And Vrindavan A Spritual Journey.pdf
The Bivou Lijiang 4-Day Meili Circuit (Greater Shangri-La Adventure)
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This is the ideal adventure for a deeper and
more insightful experience of Northwestern
Yunnan, an area more popularly known as
Greater Shangri-La.
Taking the less trodden path, we will visit
places most tour groups fail to venture, and
avoid the need to retrace your steps on the
return journey.
Experience a safe and comfortable private
journey using our 4WD jeeps, driven by our
experienced drivers, the only option for an
exciting adventure than the usual large and
noisy tour buses used by tour groups.
The undisputed best choice for anyone
looking for the ultimate travel adventure in
Yunnan!
Moirigkawagarbo
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云南最美旅行线路
梅里环线 日4
The
best tourist routes
in Yunnan
3. 梅
里
环
线
四
日
示
意
图
MAPOFMERILOOPLINEFOURDAYS
2
3
6
Religions
Ethnic groups
Natural Sceneries
LEGEND
Deqin
Meili Snow
Mountain
Baima Snow
Mountain
Mountain Pass
Benzilan
Nixi Pottery
VillageCizhong
Tongle
Village
Weixi
Tacheng
Qizong
Jade Dragon
Snow Mountain
Shangri-La
Little ZhongdianShika Snow
Mountain
Haba Snow Mountain
Tiger Leaping Gorge
Lijiang
Lashi
Lake
Shigu (Stone
Drum) Town
Sanba
NuRiver
LancangRiver
Jinsha
River
Gongshan
Bingzhongluo
1
3
2
4
2 Route
Scenic
Hotel
Meals
Hike
Horse
Postal
Mountain
Daju
Xionggu
Wenshan
Honghe
Kunming
QujingChuxiong
Lincang
Puer
Xishuangbanna
Dehong
Baoshan
Lijiang
Dali
Deqin
Shangri-La
Weixi
River
Lake
City/Town
Highway
Distance
Road G214
S225
S226
S226
G214
S226
G214
S308
S308
S991
G214
196KM
215KM
191KM
195KM
Napa
Lake
N
4. 7
China Geographic Magazine
2014 China's Top Travel Route
Scheduling P1
Highlights P2
Day 1 P3
Day 2 P9
Day 3 P15
Day 4 P20
Lijiang-Xionggu-Qiaotou-Little Zhongdian-
Shangri-La
Shangri-La-Nixi-Benzilan-Deqin-Feilai Temple
Feilai Temple-Deqin-CizhongTongle-Tacheng
Tacheng-Qizong-Shigu-Lijiang
Be well-prepared for inclement weather conditions: Pack
warm and waterproof clothing and prepare adequate
sun protection. Respect local customs and religious
beliefs. Maintain an attitude of tolerance and
understanding towards the material and living conditions
of the places we visit. Bring along your own high-energy
food supplements.
Please Note
Maintain a positive attitude, Avoid strenuous activities. Avoid
overeating, Stay warm. Keep warm. Do not take too many showers,
Avoid the consumption of alcohol. Avoid over-reliance on oxygen,
reduce activities that will increase your oxygen uptake. Take
necessary medication in a timely manner medicines as early as
possible.
How To Reduce The Eects Of High Altitude (AMS)
5. 2 3
Not To Be Missed!
Bear quiet witness to the sacred
sight of the morning sun as it slowly
illuminates Mt Kawa Karpo, turning
one of the Tibetans' most revered
peaks gold.
Enjoy wine-tasting at the vineyards of
century-old Cizhong church, drink vintage
wines made using traditional French
missionary winemaking techniques.
Catch the amazing sight of the Yunnan Snub–nosed
monkeys, one of the rarest mammals in the world, as
they forage for moss on the trees of Baima Snow
Mountain
Join in the turning of the World’s – Largest Prayer Wheel
at Shangri-La Dukezong Old Town
Hoist a Tibetan prayer flag, called Lung ta (meaning Wind
Horse) in Tibetan send blessings to your loved ones.
Accompany your whole journey with sumptuous local
gastronomic delights .
Take home a souvenir piece of black ceramic for your
friends, manufactured by a unique traditional process going
back a thousand years.
Go to Watch the documentary “Kawagarbo” at a bar called
“Meili Reminiscence”
Visit the unspoilt Tongle village and experience first-hand
traditional tribal life with Lisu minorities
Day 1
Lijiang-Lashihai- First Bend of the Yangtze River -
Qiaotou Village - Tiger Leaping Gorge - Upper
Tiger Leaping Gorge-Yi Ethnic village- Little
Zhongdian - Old Town of Shangri-La (198.7km)
Lijiang-Lashihai (13km 20mins)
Along the way, enjoy the sight of quaint Naxi villages and vast orchards on
the banks of the Lashihai wetlands, along with the lofty peaks of Jade
Dragon Snow Mountain in the background. Stationing ourselves at the
viewing platform (altitude 2600M) enjoy a bird’s eye view of the whole Lashi
Basin, with the snow mountains perfectly juxtaposed against the silver lake,
little wonder it is sometimes called “Highland Suzhou”!
Lashihai
Lashihai is a National-level Wetland Park. Home to 57 species of birds,
around 3000 migratory birds from Siberia arrive every winter , including at
least 9 species of rare and endangered bird species. Every village in Lashi
has its own horse ranch with experienced horse trek guides to take you on
a deeper exploration of the area. At the end of the trip back to Lijiang, you
will have the option to take part in a day tour including horse riding,
boating and birdwatching with the local horse trekking guides.
Lashihai-First Bend of the Yangtze River (25km 20mins)
The new Dali-Lijiang highway has allowed us to avoid the need for long
hours on the winding mountain roads. Gazing out of the window as we
breeze along, you can see the mountain range stretching as far as the eye
can see (this is south of the Hengduan Mountains). On both sides of the
road are evergreens, mainly include Gaoshan Pine (Pinus densata) and
Armand Pine (Pinus armandi).
First Bend of the Yangtze River (Viewing Platform) (2200M)
This viewing platform may not provide a close up look at the First Bend of
the Yangtze River. But ona clear day, you will be able to see the
breathtaking panorama of Mt Haba, the Jade Dragon Mountain and the
meandering Jinsha River.
First Bend of the Yangtze River - Qiaotou -Tiger
Leaping Gorge (54km 1hour)
Tiger Leaping Gorge
Rated one of the most beautiful canyons in China by Chinese National
Geographic Magazine, Tiger Leaping Gorge is also one of the deepest
canyons in the world.
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Dayan Old Town in the morning
A view of Jade Dragon and Haba Snow Mountains
Tiger Leaping Gorge
Little Zhongdian at fall
Spanning 28 kilometers, it is divided into Upper, Middle and Lower Tiger
Leaping Gorge. View the magnicent scenery of the rushing rapids
between the Jade Dragon and Haba Snow Mountains. According to
legend, tigers used to jump from one side of the gorge to the other by
way of the rocky outcrops, hence the name “Tiger Leaping Gorge”. We
will be ascending around 200 metres, so visitors need to prepare for long-
distance walking and pay attention to their personal safety.
Tiger Leaping Gorge- Qiaotou - Yi Ethnic Minority
Village (47 km 1 hours and a half)
After a brief hike in the gorge, we will go back to Qiaotou village for
lunch (most of the restaurants here do not provide a written menu, so
you choose what you want from the display, which may include
everything from preserved and fresh meats, to wild mushrooms, river sh
and even seasonal wild vegetables!
Yi Ethnic Minority Village (altitude 3300M)
The Yi ethnicity of Northwest Yunnan are economically and politically
weaker than the other ethnic groups in the region, so most of them can
only live in the mountains and hills. This is the largest Yi ethnic cluster
before entering the Tibetan area a village we jokingly term 'Jian Pu Zhai'
(“a simple village”, which has the same sound as the Chinese word
for “Cambodia”). On a clear day, this is another great vantage point for
Mt Haba and the Jade Dragon Snow Mountain.
Yi Ethnic Village- Little Zhongdian (18 km 30 mins)
As the altitude gradually climbs, vegetation on both sides of the road
starts to vary, the small shrubs you see are mostly Alpine dwarf
rhododendrons, while tall trees are Sargent spruce (Picea brachytyla) and
George's Fir (Abies georgei) trees , species unique to these high altitudes.
This also indicates that we are beginning to enter the Tibetan area.
Beyond the large open green space in front of us, called The Gidam
Ranch, are village houses dierent and special, being trapezoidal in
shape and constructed of earth and timber. These Tibetan- residential
dwellings have unique ethnic features, such as white towers on the left
side of the road, Marnyi Stone on the right side, colorful prayer ags
called wind horse ags, and wooden racks called highland barley frames.
Little Zhongdian (altitude 3200M)
As other tour buses struggle noisily up the 214 National Highway , our
4WD jeeps quietly and smoothly navigate this dicult section of the road
(reminiscent of the former 214 National Road, which was a bumpy road
just like this one, and hence The Yunnan-Tibet road was previously
jokingly known as the “rattling organs road”, because these two
pronunciations are quite similar in Chinese). As we follow the road into
the depths of Little Zhongdian, the view with which we are confronted is
not only one of beauty , but it also helps us to better understand the
relationship between the Tibetans and the land in which they live; the
Tibetan people and their philosophy of coexistence with nature; and the
relationship between their life and their religion.
The Milk River winds through this fertile piece of land, where cattle and
sheep are scattered in various corners, and eagles circle around the
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mountains. Tibetans believes that every living things possesses a spirit and
conforms to God's will, so they do not believe humans to be masters of
the world. If you happen to see a Tibetan along the way, just say ‘za xi de
lei’with enthusiasm to him, and he will return you an even more
enthusiastic ‘za xi de lei’ and a smile. (‘za xi de lei’ is the pronunciation
of‘hello’ in the Tibetan language, it means to “bring luck and health” to
people)
Small Zhongdian- Shangri-La (34 km,40 mins)
As we return to the 214 National Highway from the rugged country roads
of Little Zhongdian, on both sides of the road we still see Tibetan houses
built on vast areas of grassland and cultivated land. From May to
September of each year, dierent kinds of owers bloom on these elds,
making the land an ocean of owers. If yaks happen to cross through the
road, vehicles are required to wait patiently, and must not honk their horns.
Qingke (Highland Barley, a type of cereal unique to the highland plateau,
belongs to the barley family, is used to make typical Tibetan staples such
as ‘Zan Ba’. Zan Ba is often accompanied by butter tea, which is made with
yak milk. Yaks are often referred to as ‘Gao Yuan Zhi Zhou’(which literally
translates as “the boats of the plateau”) and the rearing of yaks is a crucial
source of income for many ordinary Tibetan families, carrying with it many
of their hopes.
Shangri-La
The British writer James Hilton published the novel "Lost Horizon"in 1933.
The book describes the presence of a paradise hidden in the mountains of
the Himalaya - Shangri-La. Indeed, here you can nd the Karakal mountains
standing like pyramids, the mysterious Blue Moon Valley, and sacred
lamaseries, and the people who live in this area enjoy an isolated and
peaceful life, just like those living in The Peach Garden as described by
the famous poet Tao Yuanming of the Jin Dynasty.
The word‘Shangri-La’ had not previously existed in the English dictionary,
but after this book was published, people from many dierent countries
around the world began to seek the true paradise of ‘Shangri-La’ . In 2001,
the Zhongdian county in Northwest Yunnan Diqing ocially changed its
name to Shangri-La. The name change was approved by the State Council,
and it was declared that the word Shangri-La originates from the Tibetan
word Shambhala, which translates as the sun and the moon of the heart .
Dukezong Ancient Town (altitude 3300M)
During the Tubo Dynasty a fortress was established on the slopes of
the “Big Turtle Mountain” in this town. The fortress was named Dukezong,
meaning moonlit town. In parallel with Dukezong is another town on the
bank of the Milk River,‘Niwangzong’ meaning solar town. The existence of
the “solar” and “moonlit” towns here are strong evidence to prove that this
region is indeed the true land of Shangri-La (which if you recall is
translated from Tibetan, “the sun and moon of the heart”). In Moonlight
Square of Dukezong Old Town is the Turtle Mountain Park , home to what
is claimed to be the world's largest copper spinning prayer wheel.
According to legend, rotating the prayers slowly together with others can
bring believers absolution from guide and good luck. The ancient town of
Dukezong was one of the most important towns on the commercial
route “Delamu”(Ancient Tea Horse Road). The slippery stones on Cobbler
Slope (the oldest street in Dukezong), worn smooth over the centuries,
have borne witness to the change over this period of history. Although the
caravan trade no longer exists, Tibetans who live in the center of the town
still keep those old traditions alive, for instance, every night after dinner
they will go to the square for the‘Guozhuang’ street dance, which reects
the Tibetans as a singing and dancing nationality. You will have the
opportunity to dance hand-in-hand with them, which presents an
unforgettable chance to immerse yourself in real Tibetan culture,.
In January of 2014, an inferno brought catastrophe to this thousand year
old town, and we might never know the real cause of the tragedy. But we
cannot help but think of that old prophecy often recited by elderly
Tibetans: If we only know to blindly and excessively demand from nature,
then there will come a day when the guardians of nature will bring upon a
disaster to punish us. These words may sound very transcendental, but in
reality brim with Tibetan natural philosophy. Seemingly unrelated events
are no doubt connected by some form of karma unbeknownst to humans.
No matter whether these sayings have any scientic basis, we still hope
those involved will not make the same old mistakes again, and will instead
rebuild this charming ancient town with a view to long-term sustainability.
Explanation of Ethnic Phrases
Guozhuang Dance:
It also known as Guozhuo, Gezhuang, Zhuo etc. It means Circle Dance
in the Tibetan language, and is one of the three main folk dances in
Tibetan culture.
White Stupa:
A common landmark building in the Tibetan area, it is mostly white, and
used by Tibetans to ward o bad luck and pray for good fortune. It is
usually built at villages, and some spiritually rich places sacred mountains,
lakes, hilltops etc. In front of the white stupas are usually these stove like
structures called Weisang platforms, and every morning, Tibetans will
light some pine needles and cypress leaves on this platform giving rise to
fragrant smoke. While holding a rosary and saying the spell, they circle
around the white tower in a clockwise direction ,which is called ‘Zhuan
Jing’. This process usually lasts for one to two hours.
Mani Stone Pile:
In Tibetan areas, people are often able to see piles of stones stacked like
towers, this is the Mani Stone Pile. Mani Stone Piling is a Tibetan folk art,
which are mostly engraved with the six word mantra, insight, statues and
all kinds of auspicious patterns, in order to exorcise evil and pray for luck.
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The Wind Horse Flag:
The wind horse ag is a unique feature on the Tibetan Plateau, it is also
known as the Tibetan ag, called ‘Lunda’. It is a colorful cloth erected in
the Tibetan Buddhism region, on White Stupas, Mani Stone Piles and the
rooftop of temples. The name “Wind Horse Flag” came about because
the ag is painted with a white horse along with the religious
scriptures.The ag blows in the wind, spreading the scriptures and good
luck everywhere. Flags are the medium of communication between the
secular and divine worlds. On special days, dierent wind horse ags
for dierent days are hung. At certain times, altars are set up to perform
rituals, monks invited to chant prayers, and Tibetan spiral shell horns
are blown, creating magnicent and unforgettable scenes.
Six Words Mantra:
Om Mani Padme Hum, for Tibetan language pronunciation is a Tibetan
Buddha-Guanyin Bodhisattva mantra, derived from the Sanskrit,
symbolizing all the Bodhisattvas’s mercy and blessing. It is a powerful
and signicant mantra, containing the power of the universe, the great
wisdom and compassion. Tibetan people say it when they turn the
prayer wheel and pray.
Recommendation for Food : When dining at Shangri-La,
the Yak Meat Hotpot is a good choice. High caloric foods
are the best options at high altitude as one tends to have
a higher consumption of energy
Day 2
Dukezong Old Town Shangri-La → Songtsam Temple →
Napa Lake →Nixi Village → Benzilan→ Baima Snow
Mountain Pass→ Deqin → Feilaisi Temple (175.5 km)
Shangri-La → Songtsam Temple (8 km,30mins)
Driving through the Shangri-La urban area, we come to the entrance of
Songtsam Temple where we transfer to a sightseeing bus, Songtsam Temple is
the largest Tibetan Buddhist temple in Yunnan, and is commonly referred to as
the little Potala Palace. Its grace lets us experience and understand the
former Tibetan Buddhism in this world.
Songtsam(Songzan Lin) Temple (altitude 3300M)
The full name is ‘Gedan Songzan Monastery. Gedan is the other name for Gelu
Sect of Tibetan Buddhism (commonly known as the Yellow Sect). The founder
of the Gelu Sect -Master Zongkeba built the Gedan Temple in Tibet. The
Chinese name is Songzan Lin, and while‘Song Zan’means the place of heaven,
Lin is the temple. Founded in 1679, it was granted the name by Dalai Lama the
Fifth, with the Han name of ‘Guihua Temple’. Believed to be the largest
Tibetan Buddhist temple in Yunnan, it also one of the thirteen monasteries in
the Kang District. Songtsam Temple has played a decisive role in the religion
and politics of this area in history.While visiting a Tibetan Buddhist temple,
there are some rules that we have to know about and obey, such as: Visit the
temple in a clockwise direction; Do not step on the doorsill of the temple;
Take o your sunglasses or hat while you are in the temple; Do not talk loudly
in the temple; Do not smoke; Do not take photographs without permission;
Women are not allowed to enter certain areas of the temple; Do not scare the
crows that are around the temple; Ask for permission before taking
photographs of the monks and pilgrims. With the development of tourism,
there are some activities in the temple that would require payment such as for
the purchase of incense. Do practice discretion in these situations, as
theoretically, Tibetan Buddhism preaches for any donation to be made only in
accordance to free will.
Songtsam Temple → Napa Lake (15 km, 30mins)
After visiting Songtsam Temple, we will have a preliminary understanding of
Tibetan Buddhism. Next, we will carry on along the 214 National Highway
towards the Napa Lake Wetlands Reserve.
Napa Lake (altitude 3300M)
Meaning “The lake beside the forest”, this is a National-level Nature Reserve
for the rare and endangered black necked cranes to hibernate, as well as the
Provincial-level Nature Reserve for the protection of many rare migratory birds.
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Mini Potala Palace – Songzan Temple
The World's Largest Prayer Wheel at Shangri-La
Non-tangible Cultural Heritage – Nixi Black Pottery
Tibetan White Stupas
Napa lake is a seasonal alpine lake, with a vast body of water in summer,
but dries up winter, and is the most famous ranch in Shangri-La. The blue
sky, white clouds, snow mountains, lakes, grasslands, forests and villages
combine to create a breathtakingly stunning alpine wetland landscape.
Each year in November to the end of April the following year, we can see all
kinds of rare migratory birds in the Napa Lake. According to statistics,
there are at least 50 dierent kinds of rare birds that inhabit the wetlands
here, in addition to the well-known black necked cranes. Some people also
believe that it is possible to chance upon a mystical kind of beast called Ern
at Napa Lake. Napa Lake is full of surprises if we explore it carefully during
this time!
Napa Lake → Nixi Tangdui Village (17 km, 30mins)
Bidding the beautiful Napa Lake goodbye, we continue our journey, along
the way we can see dozens of white Tibetan houses of the village on the
left side of the road. This is a place ignored by many commercial tour
groups. What awaits us in this village? Let us explore it!
Tang Dui Village (altitude 2900M)
In the sixth episode The Secret Of Kitchen of the very popular 2012
documentary A Bite of China, seven minutes were dedicated to introducing
a unique and little known handmade black ceramic cooking utensil found
only in Tibetan areas. Tang Dui town is the place which has been producing
the traditional handmade black ceramic for over 3000 years. As we descend
by road, we can see that the ancient village is located in a peaceful valley,
where barely a hundred families have settled on the gentle slopes,
seemingly in their own version of paradise.
We will visit the home and workshop of Nixi ceramic Master Sunnuo
Qilin, who recently passed away.. Making black ceramic is a complicated and
slow process, but it is also a romantic and artistic creation process. The
entire process, from preparation; shaping, carving, shade to ring etc takes
all of 10 days. A national-level senior folk artist in Yunnan province and
one of the most famous contemporary ceramic artists, who had contributed
50 years of his life to black ceramic production, Master Sun treated the
black ceramic production as an art creation. Today, his son Luosang En
has inherited this ancient craft under the inuence of his father.
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We come here not only to witness the process of making black ceramic,
but also to visit the Tibetan houses to see the internal structures of these
dwellings and to taste the unique butter tea, tsampa and cheese. And what
better gift to bring home for our friends and families than these
handmade black ceramic gifts. After all, many ancient crafts are being lost
in these modern times.
Nixi → Benzilan (45 km, 1 hours)
Benzilan town (altitude 1900M)
As the altitude begins to fall, we gradually enter the area of Rehe Valley
where Benzilan Town is located. Benzilan means Beautiful Sandbank, and
was an important stop for horse caravans during the times of the Ancient
Tea Horse Road. The next place after this stop is Baima Snow Mountain
pass, which is over 4000 meters above the sea level. This is a junction
between two provinces (Yunnan, Sichuan) and three counties (Shangri-La,
De Rong, and Deqin), and the Jinsha River ows around this old town.
According to history, this is where the Red Army crossed Jinsha River from
here to the north on an abandoned bridge over the river known as the He
Long bridge, which was built specially for the Red Army.
Benzilan→ White Horse Snow Mountain Pass (55 km, 2
hours)
Leaving Benzilan town, we drive up along to the 214 National Highway,
where we can gain a deep understanding of the Chinese saying‘To Have
Four Seasons In One Mountain’. The change in vegetation is very obvious.
During 2 hours across 5 dierent forest vertical zone spectrum (from the
Rehe valley shrub forests with tropical cactus plants to temperate
broadleaf mixed forest of white birch and George Spruces cold temperate
coniferous forest to the Alpine Rhododendrons and alpine shrubs), this is
a new driving experience for most tourists. Then we will reach the highest
point of the trip at an elevation of 4292 meters of the Baima Snow
Mountain pass.
Baima Snow Mountain (altitude 5640M)
Baima Snow Mountain is a National-level Natural Reserve and the name
means “holy lotus” Baima Snow Mountain is one of the most important
sections of the Three Parallel Rivers Area. It is also an important habitat
for the national-level protected animal- the Yunnan Snub-Nosed Monkey.
The main peak is called ‘Zala Queni’ which means God of war. The
mountain rhododendron forest of Baima Snow Mountain has been given
the title of Top Ten Beautiful Forest In China by the Chinese National
Geographic Magazine.
Baima Snow Mountain
pass→ Deqin (46 km,
1 hour and 30mins)
After crossing the pass, the road
begins its gradual descent. After 20
kilometers of driving, if the weather
is ne, we can begin to see the
lofty Meili Snow Mountain on the
left side of the road.
Meili Snow Mountain (altitude 6740M)
The peak of Meili Snow Mountain is called Kawa Gebo, which means
“The Sacred Snow God of The Valley”. It is generally regarded as the
best peak in Yunnan, and is also one of the eight sacred mountains of
the Tibetan area. Tibetans gave the lucky number ‘13’ to name the snow
peaks which are over 6000meters, and these peaks are collectively called
‘The Prince of Thirteen Peaks. Because the two best vantage points are
on the 214 National Highway, of late, this area has become an
increasingly popular for photographers to take photos.
Mishap of Meili Snow Mountain
In 1991, the second biggest mishap in the world of mountaineering
happened at Meili Snow Mountain. 18 members of the China-Japan Joint
Mountaineering team died when they climbed to a height of 6470 meters
and met an avalanche caused by a snowstorm. In 1998, a nomadic
Tibetan found their bodies at an ice plate which is on the other side of
the main peak of the Mingyong Glacier. After this tragedy, Meili Snow
Mountain became the rst snow mountain forbidden by law to be
climbed. The documentary Kawa Gebo kept a precious record of this
incident, The Tibetans believe that sacred mountains are not meant to
be conquered, so once humans climb to the top of it, the gods will
depart from them.
Deqin - Feilai Temple (10 km, 20mins)
Deqin County (the elevation of 3500M)
Deqin County located in northwest Yunnan, is the highest county in the
province. It is located on a gentle slope surrounded by three soaring
mountains. Geologists suggest that people moved out of this area
because they think Deqin is in the same danger as Zhouqu, which is the
risk of debris ow. However, the local Tibetans do not take it seriously
and are still living here peacefully as they believe the gods are on their
side all the time with their blessings.
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Feilai Temple (altitude 3600M)
Feilai temple is actually the name of the village, and is also the name
of the local temple also by the same name, which is the landmark of
this village . It is one of the best locations to see the Meili Snow
Mountain (aka Kawa Gebo) .The small village is located on the 214
National Highway which is lined with all kinds of hotels, guesthouse,
bars, restaurants, even some ve star hotels. On a clear morning, when
you open the curtains of the room, you can enjoy the magnicent
sacred sight known as ‘Sun Shining on Golden Mountain'.
Explanation of Ethnic Phrases
Kora:
This is a solemn and sacred religious ceremony. Tibetans believe that
walking a complete round clockwise around the divine mountain on
foot can remove sin from oneself and help one to gain divine
mountain blessings and best wishes. The koras around Meili Snow
Mountain are divided into Little Kora and Big Kora . The popular
Yubeng trekking route is part of the Little Kora and can be completed
in three days. The Big Kora requires between 7 days to half a month.
The base of Meili Snow Mountain extends to the boundary with Tibet.
Polygamy:
In Deqin today, polyandry and polygamy still exist as part of
society's culture The existence of this phenomenon is strongly related
to the harsh natural environment and shortage of labor in this area ,
but at the same time,is also a traditional custom , involving religion and
history reasons. Such a family is conducive to production, is good for
keeping together family property, and encourages family members to
be responsible, and to share work. If you have a chance to meet such a
family at Deqin, do not feel too surprised or probe too deeply into the
lives of the local people, nor judge this tradition according to the
prejudices of modern civilization .
Recommendation for Lunch: Do not to miss the
taste of Matsutake (Pine mushrooms) with
chicken, cooked in black Nixi ceramic;
Recommendation for Dinner : Restaurants in
Feilai Temple are mostly of the Sichuan avor,
and hot pot is a good choice
Day 3
Feilai Temple→Deqin→Cizhong→Tongle→Kangpu→
Baijixun→Weixi (215 km)
Feilai temple→Deqin →Cizhong (91km, 2 hours)
After getting up early to see the ‘Sun Shining on Golden Mountain'
‘Sunshine on Jinshan’, we nish our breakfast, before returning to
Deqin County. We then depart from the 214 National Highway along the
road between Deqin and Weixi, following the Lancang River.
Lancang River:
The Lancang river is the name for the upper reach of the Mekong
River, located within the vicinity of China. The ninth longest river in
the world, and the fourth longest river in Asia, it is the longest river in
Southeast Asia. The Lancang river ows through Qinghai, Tibet and
Yunnan provinces, before exit China from Mengla County, in
Xishuangbanna of Yunnan province, becoming Mekong River at the
intersection with Laos and Myanmar (Burma) . The Mekong River ows
through Myanmar (Burma), Thailand, Laos, Cambodia and Vietnam,
before owing into the South China Sea in Ho Chi Ming City in
Vietnam.
Meili Canyon of Lancang River:
Meili Canyon located in Deqin County of Yunnan China, has a length of
150 kilometers, and is known for having the greatest elevation
dierence within Yunnan province. The valley is famous for its depth
and length, and the rapid ow of the river. Standing at the bottom of
the valley towards the Meili mountain range, the sky appears as a thin
sliver and you can feel the sheer magnicence of the nature and
insignicance of human life. It is a scene that is beyond description
and can only be felt through personal experience . Meili Canyon of
Lancang river has been selected by the Chinese National Geographic
Magazine as one of the Top Ten Most Beautiful Grand Canyons in
China,. Walking in the canyon, you will have chance to see to the
other bank of the river afew houses built on the clis. It is hard to
imagine how people can live at that kind of perilous enviroment for
generations!
We begin to enter an open plain , where the sharp-eyed will spot a
house on the other side of the river that looks distinctively dierent
from other domestic dwellings. That is the famous Cizong Catholic
Church.
12. 16 17
Cizhong Catholic Church
Tongle Lisu Village
Lisu Non-tangible Cultural Heritage - Acimugua
One may begin to wonder how is it possible that there is a Western
church in an area where the population is largely Tibetan Buddhists
Here is an area that is almost totally isolated from the rest of the world
and only a visit across the Lancang River can reveal the answer.
Cizhong Village and Cizhong Church (altitude 2200M)
Cizhong village was built on a gentle bank of the Lancang River. It is a
multi-ethnic village where it is said that there are 7 ethnic groups with
dierent religious beliefs living here together. The road into the village is
quite dangerous, until you suddenly begin to see a lot of
vineyards.Grapes in reality are not native to the area, having been
introduced to Cizhong when French missionaries came here, because the
Catholic Church has a very important religious ceremony-Mass, in which
grapes are needed to make wine, and together with bread they represent
Jesus' blood and body in sacrice to God (Mass is a Latin phrase
meaning the Dissolution and Departure ,, also known as the Eucharist).
The missionaries brought the grape seeds and technique of winemaking
here, and under a similar growing environment as their home country,
vineyards were built at this isolated village where the rose honey variant
of wine making grapes ourished. A visit to Cizhong oers us the
opportunity to encounter this romantic French tradition passed down
over centuries .
With many doubts still in our minds, we open the mysterious and tranquil
church door, to unveil a hidden history In the middle of the eighteenth
Century, the Western Christian missionaries came to Diqing and
attempted to develop Christianity in Northwest Yunnan and even
extended it to Tibet. They built the church, managed to get only a few
believers and lived a very hard life in the area of strongly Tibetan
Buddhists , They gradually became the source of hatred of the Buddhist
believers. Locals who could not tolerate the Catholic missionary activities
and this eventually led to the Adun Zi and Weixi tragedies. In 1905 in the
Weixi tragedy, angry locals burned 10 churches on the side of the
Lancang River and Nu River, killed some French missionaries . At that
time, the Qing government under the western government forces, sent a
large number of troops to suppress the Buddhist monks and local
people. Buddhist believers fought for three months but failed eventually.
For the loss of the church, the Qing goverment gave them a huge
compensation, and allowed them to build the church at Cizhong in about
1/10 of the Cizhong land. During the Cultural Revolution period in China,
because the church was used as a primary school classroom, it was
spared from much destruction.
Father Yao Fei
Father Yao Fei is a short and plump middle-aged man from Inner
Mongolia, people will often mistake him to be a normal local villager if he
doesn't speak. He stayed at the Church of Beijing and accepted the
mission to came Yunnan as the bishop of Cizhong church from 2008 till
now. When there are religious activities, he will wear a robe and help the
believers to hold baptism ceremonies, confessions, funerals and
weddings.
Miancimu
Jiwarenan
(Five-Crown)
Kawa Karpo
(KawageboMiancimu Peak Qianaduojie
13. 18 19
Normally, he is just like a local working on the vineyards and farmlands.
We can feel the spirit of the ancient French missionaries still living within
him, he loves the Catholic Church and the land he lives on and willingly
lives in this small village. Today , dierent nationalities with dierent
beliefs live on in this pure land in harmoney, perhaps this man has already
treated this place as his own hometown.
Cizhong→Tongle (61 km, 1 hours and 30 mins)
Bidding farewell to Father Yao Fei, we drive back to the Deqin-Weixi Road,
after passing the treachery of Meili Grand Canyon, the landscape begins to
atten out, and soon enough, the Lancang river begins gently owing . On
the both side of the valley are farmland and villages
Tong Le Lisu Ethnic Nationality Village (altitude 2400M)
At a nondescript turn lies a secluded road that leads us to the
mountainous village. We will pass through a valley with a rivulet . On the far
distant hillsides are the occasional Zhuang minority houses used for
storing dried feed , which look like ancient lookout towers. As we arrive
at the village, we will nd that all the meandering roads we had driven
through were in reality all under our foot , These kinds of road were easy
to protect but hard to attack in ancient times.
Tongle is the largest and oldest Lisu ethnic village in China, with more than
one hundred Lisu wooden houses built on the mountains. Tongle is the
Lisu word for “The Place where Chabu Hunts”, as legend has it, Chabu was
a man who became a very famous hunter in this place. The Lisu People live
very simple and peaceful lives here. There is a museum for the history of
Lisu nationality, and you can get a better understand for the history of Lisu
costumes, farming and hunting etc.
Tongle →Weixi (82 km, 3 hours)
Driving down the road that follows the Lancang River, we will arrive in
Weixi county before returning to Jinsha River. We will arrive at Tacheng
before nightfall. Few people know that Weixi county is the only
autonomous county for Lisu nationality, especially in this multiracial land-
Yunnan.
Explanation of Ethnic Phrases:
Worship of Cizhong Church
The main contents of the worship are prayer, hymns, choir singing, reading,
preaching and blessing. Each Sunday morning, local believers get together
in the church to worship and you can join them if you happen to be here
on that day.
Dance of A Chi Mu Gua
This is a traditional folk song and dance of the Lisu. It is a group
entertainment dance which means “Song and Dance of the Mountain
Goat”, its characteristic is that no instruments are used to play music
but instead there is singing by the people, and the singing is
melodious like the sounds of goats. There are more than 10 kinds of
movements for the dance of A Chi Mu Gua, which are the reections of
the life of goats and of nomadism. It's natural way of dance and
singing to represent the development history of the Lisu ethnic
nationality, to expresse the Lisu's love of nature and their simple but
happy life. A Chi Mu Gua is rated on the national level intangible
cultural heritage list.
Recommendation for Lunch: Adjacent to the church is a
guest house that provides dishes cooked with organic
ingredients, worth a try. Also, do not miss the opportunity to
try a glass of French wine at the Cizhong church;
Recommendation for Dinner: Shen Chuan Hotel in
Tacheng provides good food, and occasionally there will be
seasonal foods and river fish available for consumption
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Jade Dragon Snow Mountain
Tibetan man in the field
Tibetan Child
Mani Stones with carvings
Day 4
Weixi→Xiang Gu Qing →Tacheng →Qizong →Shigu
→Lijiang(196 km)
Weixi→Xiang Gu Qing Snub-nosed Monkey National
Conservation Park→Tacheng (64 km,1hours)
The Yunnan Snub-Nosed Monkey is an adorable creature, with an
upturned nose and sexy luscious red lips being its trademark features.
Following closely behind the Giant Panda in terms of its value, it is a
Level 1 National Protected Species. In recent years, the local
community has expanded the scope of protection for the natural
home of the monkeys, with specialist forestry sta periodically
monitoring the environment and dispersion of the various herds, as
well as educating the local community of the importance of wildlife
protection. When visiting these monkeys up close, remember not to
feed them, and avoid intruding into their activity area.
We will watch a documentary called Dream of the Baima Snow
Mountain in the Yunnan Snub-nosed Monkey National Conservation
Park, to review what we see and hear during the trip.
Tacheng→Qizong (17 km, 30 mins)
Qizong →Shigu (108 km, 2 hours)
Jinsha River
Jinsha River (Chin-sha River) is the upper reach of the Yangtze river in
China,The source of the Yangtze river is at the Yushu county, Qinghai,
and once it enters the Hengduan Mountains area, it is known as the
Jinsha River Because it ows through deep valleys from the towering
Hengduan Mountain Range , the water ows rapidly and straight
down to the southeast.
Shigu (Stone Drum) Town (altitude 1800M)
Shigu is a town on the side of Jinsha River, about 50 km from
Lijiang. Its name comes from a giant white marble stone carved into a
drum shape . According to sayings, the stone was built by Zhu
Geliang at the Three Kingdoms period, it was built at May Dulu near
to Shigu. The original one has no inscriptions, but during the Ming
dynasty, people wrote a eulogistic poem for the Lijiang soldiers who
were defeated at Tufan. Since ancient times,
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Shigu has been the granary of Lijiang, because of its lower elevation and
perfect water resource of Jinsha river, which makes it suitable for the
growing of crops. The famous local lentil jelly is more authentic than in
Lijiang old town!
The First Bend of the Yangtze River
As the Jinsha River ows from the Northwest, it turns towards to
Northeast after ow into Shigu (Stone Drum) town, forming a giant V-
shaped bend, creating a unique geographical landscape. Although there
are three rivers in the Three Parallel Rivers UNESCO World Natural
Heritage area , only the Jinsha river bends back to stay in China because
of this signicant turning.
Shigu (Stone Drum Town) → Lijiang (53 km, 1 hours)
Once again returning to the Dali-Lijiang highway, which indicates this
unforgettable journey is about to come to an end. During these 4 days,,
we have driven around the Northwest of Yunnan, experiencing and
understanding this region from dierent angles, from stunning natural
landscape , to local customs, religions and history . Yet, compared to the
sheer scale of the area, this is but a glimpse of what this place holds. A
good trip is never an escape from life. These people that we met along
the way, they have given us inspirations with their simple words and
actions: Be in awe and keep the faith, did not complain even in the harsh
environment, love our ordinary work, try to bring smiles and happiness to
other people. It is a rule for a simple but happy life.
Hopefully, when we return to the city, the joy and emotions which we felt
on the journey can remain with us, and we wish for the gods to bring us
good fortune and joy.
.
Explanation of Ethinic Phrases
Jie Zi Tian (Street Day):
In Yunnan, market is referred to as Jie Zi, or street. There are specic
market days in dierent places, for Shigu town, any day with three, six
and nine will be a market day. Shigu has always been at the center
of the Ancient Tea Horse Trade Route with Tibetans exchanging their
leather and cordyceps goods for tea leaves, salt and cloths A market
day is a bustling day indeed!
Recommendation for Lunch: Qizong farmhouse for
lunch,the choice is local pollution-free food, cooked
in the most traditional way to retain the original taste of
the ingredients , so that you can enjoy these true gifts of
nature.
Here are some recommended books, music, and movies
so you can know more about this route.
Books:
Joseph Rock Ancient Nakhi Kingdom of Southwest China
Alexandra David-Néel, My Journey to Lhasa
James Hilton, Lost Horizon
Fan Wen, Shuiru Dadi (A Land Of Milk And Honey)
Huang Doumi, Chao Sheng Meili Xue Shan
(Worshipping Meili Snow Mountain)
Movies:
Himalaya
Kawa Gebo
Delamu
Music:
Himalaya Soundtrack
Dadawa Sister Drum
Kelsang Chukie Tethong Where The Heart Blossoms