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Lab 6: Tides and Coastal processes Goals: 1. Understand what causes tides. 2. Understand how deep-ocean waves change and break when they reach a coastline. 3. Understand how shoreline transport of sediment occurs and how it is affected by human activities. Tides Tides are actually waves that move through the oceans and large lakes. In the oceans, they have periods of several hours and wavelengths of 1000s of kilometers. Depending on the wave period that dominates in different parts of the world, some places have only one high and one low tide a day (diurnal tides), whereas others have two high (about equal to each other) and two low tides (also about equal to each other) known as semidiurnal. A third type is mixed tides with two highs and two lows a day with different heights, (a high high, a low high, a high low and a low low). California, as the rest of the west coast has mixed tides. The gravitational pull of the Sun and the Moon causes tides on Earth. The gravitational influence of an object is directly related to its mass and its distance from another object. So even though the Sun has much more mass than the Moon, it is over 380 times farther away from the Earth than the Moon. Therefore, our little Moon wins out and has the most influence on the tides on Earth. As the Earth spins about its axis, centrifugal force keeps water balanced on all sides of the planet. However, the Moon's gravitational forces disrupt this balance by pulling the water towards the Moon. A double "bulge" is formed—one side pulling toward the Moon and the opposite side pulling away from it, just like swinging a water balloon causes it to stretch both toward AND away from your hand. The areas where the bulging occurs experience high tides. Tides are predictable, but their periods do not coincide with the 24 hour Earth day. The Moon takes about 24 hours and 50 minutes to line up again exactly with the same point on the Earth. Therefore, the timing of the tides shifts almost an hour a day. Because the relative positions of the Sun, Earth and Moon change over the course a day, a month and a year, the absolute heights of diurnal, semidiurnal and mixed tides vary over these periods. For example, even within the same ~25 hour period, the heights of the semidiurnal tides are not exactly the same, although they are close. Even more significant changes are seen over a monthly cycle, with higher-than-normalspring tides (not named for the season but because the water "springs" higher than normal) and the lower-than-normalneap tides. Exercise 1. Let's investigate the causes of spring and neap tides. Go to this websitehttp://aspire.cosmic-ray.org/Labs/Tides/tides_simulator.html . Pick the student version because the teacher version has an annoying note in the middle of the simulation screen—the teacher version will not give you any more information than the student version to answer these questions. Click on the tide simulator. Click the box to turn on spring/neap ...
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