5. Basic Bodice Block
Steps to be followed are –
• Measure centre back(34.5cm) and round chest(76cm).
• Take a pattern paper draw a straight horizontal line AC(76/2+2.5).
• Draw a vertical line AB(34.5cm ).
• Now make a rectangle joining ABCD.
• Measure half of AB and name it E , measure half of CD and name it F. Join EF.
• Measure half of AE name it G, measure half of CF name it H. Now join GH
• Measure half of AG name it I , measure half of CH name it J. Now join IJ.
• Measure half of AI name it K , measure half of CJ name it L. Now join KL.
• Now divide ABCD vertically into six equal parts and mention them numerically from 1 to 5.
• For back shoulder line draw a diagonal line from line 1 to 2 + 2.5cm and name it MN. For front
shoulder line draw diagonal line from line 5 to 4 + 2.5 cm and name it M’N’.
• To make back armhole mark a point horizontally 1.5 cm from line G2 and join it with N till P with
the help of french curve. To make front armhole mark a pint horizontally 0.5 cm from line H4 and
join it with N’ till P with the help of French curve.
• To make back neckline draw a curve from M to K with the help of french curve. To make front
neckline make a curve from M’ to H with the help of french curve.
• To make darts on back mark a point above 12.5 cm on line 1 with 3 cm width . To make dart in
front mark a point 14 cm above on line 5 with 3 cm width.
8. The parts of the Basic Sleeve
• Cap line : A horizontal line from underarm to underarm. It
is the cross wise grain line which separates the upper and
lower sections of the sleeves.
• Sleeve Cap : The part of the sleeve above the cap line.
• Cap Seam line : The curved line around the top of the
sleeve. There are two notches in the back and one notch in
the front to insure proper distribution of the ease.
• Ease : Ease is the difference in length between the sleeve
cap seam line and the bodice arms eye
• Grain line : A line at straight angles to the cap line.
• Fold line : A line created by folding the sleeve in half, It will
follow the grain above the elbow, because of the dart it
angles off grain below the elbow.
• Elbow Dart : Fitting dart in the back of the sleeve that
create a bulge in the sleeve so the arms can bend.
9. TYPES OF SLEEVES
• Set in Sleeve
• Sleeves without arms eye seam
• Sleeves with changed arms eye seam
10. Set in Sleeve
A sleeve joined to the body
of a garment by a seam
starting at the edge of the
shoulder and continuing
around the armhole.Includes
bell sleeves , Full sleeve ,
bishop sleeves , coat sleeve etc.
11. Sleeves without arms eye seam
• This type of sleeve don’t have armhole .
• Kimono sleeve and
extended shoulder sleeve
come under this category.
12. Sleeves with changed arms eye seam
• Raglan sleeve , cape sleeve, dolman sleeve
etc. are the example of sleeves which changed
arms eye seam.
14. Basic sleeve
• Measure sleeve length (20cm)
• Width of the sleeve (20 cm)
• Round chest (76cm)
• Take half of round chest
• (38-5cm )
• Take a pattern paper and
• Draw a horizontal line AC
• of 33cm and a vertical line
• AB (20cm ) . Now make
• a rectangle of ABCD.
• Now fold the pattern
• vertically in half .
• Mark a point E 1/8 if the round chest. Join the tip of the folded pattern paper diagonally to the
• Divide the diagonal line into 4 equal parts and draw lines of 1 cm.
• Now make curves of armhole with the help of these lines.
16. Roll up sleeve
1) Trace sleeve to finished length desired, label A – B
2) Draw three parallel lines spaced 2.5 cms.
3) Apart below hemline ( A – B ). Label section 1 , 2 and 3
17. 4) Fold so that section 1 is up,
section 2 down, and section 3
5) Draw under seams with ruler on both
sides of fold as guides and cut from paper.
19. Puff sleeve
Puff sleeve are developed by adding fullness to the sleeve width .Puff sleeves can
be of any length desired.
There are three types of basic puff sleeves.
1)Fullness at the hem
2) Fullness at the cap
3) Fullness at both cap and hem.
1) Trace the basic sleeve.
2) Draw slash lines at the equal
distances ( 2 cm ), and mark them
as 1 – 13.
STEP 4 :
21. Cut the slashes
and spread them
at equal distances
( 2 cm ). Add 2 cm
at the cap and at
the hemline for
curve to make
23. BELL SLEEVE
Bell sleeves do not have any ruffle, but is a
flare from elbow to the bottom .The bell
sleeve stands away from the body falling into
soft folds at the lower edge. Bell sleeves may
be cut no any length.
24. 1) Cut the sleeve pattern the size
needed and cut away the seam
allowance (3/8″) and the hem
(1″). Divide the sleeve pattern into six
parts as indicated by the red dotted
lines below. Mark the position of your
elbow. Do not draw or cut on the
2) Pin the pattern to a new piece of pattern
paper. Cut to the edge of the cap of the
sleeve but not through and spread the
pattern. How much spread? You might ask,
the norm is 1.5″ per gap. This is where you
have to exercise your designer license and
decide how wide you want the bell sleeve to
be. Because I don't want my sleeves falling
into the soup, I will only spread to double
the width of the hem. Retrace the cap of
the sleeve on the new piece of pattern
paper and draw a smooth curve at the hem.
25. 3) Finally, add back the seam allowance, if using the Hi/Low T-shirt it is 3/8″. For
the hem, I will add the same (3/8″) since I am planning to have a very small hem.
If you want an even more dramatic appearance you may want to taper the side
seams of the bell sleeves. Just sew in about 1/2 inch at the elbow.
27. Leg o mutton sleeve
The leg - o - mutton sleeve is named for its resemblance to a
lamb’s leg. It is full from the shoulder to the upper arm and it is
tight fitting from the elbow to the wrist. Leg of mutton is
developed by enlarging the biceps and cap area, tapering the
fullness towards the elbow level.
This sleeve developed by enlarging the biceps and cap area ,
tapering the fullness towards the elbow level.
28. • Trace basic sleeve and all
markings . label cap A and B
• Mark 4 inches down from
cap on grain line. Label C.
• Cut slash line to C and not
through under seam.
• Draw vertical guidelines in
centre of paper.
• Place pattern on paper ,
matching sleeve grain with
• Spread A and B sections 2cm
spacing, remaining sections
• Measure up 3cm from cap
and blend to sleeve notches.
30. Kimono sleeve
• Kimono sleeves are cut all in one with the front and
back bodice. The kimono sleeves are always cut with a
deeper armscye than the set in sleeve. Wrinkles under
the arm are inherent to this type of sleeve because of
the extra fabric between the bodice and sleeve.
31. Kimono sleeves
are cut in one
with the bodice;
the bodice front
and the sleeve
front are one
pattern and the
bodice back and
the sleeve back
are one pattern. The shoulder seam
extends from the
neckline to the wrist line
and is called the over
arm seam. The side
seam of the bodice and
the underarm seam of
the sleeve are joined in
one continuous seam
line. Design possibilities
33. Extended shoulder sleeve
• Keep the 2 sleeve pieces
folded and aligned. Mark the
back sleeve and front sleeve
on the top piece. After
marking, cut through the
back armhole line. Then open
it up and cut through the
front armhole line . So now
you have one side back
armhole line and other side
• Remember that you need
mirror image sleeves ; for left
and right sleeves – the front
armhole line should be on the
front when folded.
35. Raglan sleeve
• Raglan sleeves have part of the sleeve attached to the bodice. A
diagonal seam is formed from the neckline to the underarm.
Underarm wrinkles are common in this type of sleeve, as well. Extra
ease is added across the chest and the armhole is lowered to
increase freedom of movement.
36. Raglan sleeves have part of the sleeve attached to the bodice. A diagonal seam is
formed from the neckline to the underarm. Underarm wrinkles are common in this
type of sleeve, as well. Extra ease is added across the chest and the armhole is
lowered to increase freedom of movement.
In clothing , a collar is the part of a shirt, dress , coat or blouse that
fastens around or frames the neck. Among clothing construction
professionals, a collar is differentiated from other necklines such
as reveres and lapels, by being made from a separate piece of
fabric, rather than a folded or cut part of the same piece of fabric
used for the main body of the garment.
A collar may be permanently attached to the main body of the
garment (e.g. by stitching) or detachable.
39. Types of collars
• Peter pan collar
• Sailor collar
• Straight collar
• Cap collar
• Shall collar
• Chinese collar/ Nehru collar /meridian
40. Peter pan collar
When the ends of flat collar are rounded,
the flat collar is referred to as peter pan
collar. The collar can be designed to have
rounded ends at the front only or at the
front and back if a separated collar is
41. STEP 1 :
Place the front and the back of the bodice in
such a manner that the shoulder slopes ( AB )
of the two meet each others.
STEP 2 :
CE = AG = DF = 5 cm
Join EGF with a curve.
EE’ = FF’ = 1 cm.
STEP 3 :
Give a slight curve at both E’ and F’.
EC’ GF’ A is the draft of the flat peter pan
collar. If lesser width of the collar is needed at
the back then take DF’ = 4cm.
44. STEP 1 :
Starting at the centre neckline, draw out a rough shape for the collar. Make sure the width of the collar piece is
approximately half of the width across your shoulders (pattern piece is cut on a fold, so work in halves). There isn’t a set
collar length, just make sure it is long enough that the bottom of the collar falls between the bottom of your shoulder
blades and the centre of your back.
Note: Make sure you account for a seam allowance.
STEP 2 :
Cut out your pattern piece. If you forgot to include a seam allowance, that is fine, just remember to add one when you
STEP 3 :
Place your collar pattern piece on your fabric, lining up the centre back with the fabric fold. Cut out two collar pieces.
46. straight collar
Also known as the point collar, the straight collar is
flexible enough to wear to work with a tie, then go tie-
less for dinner after. The straight is a universal collar; the
most versatile, easy to wear style. This collar style is
appropriate for many occasions from weddings to
business functions. Pair it with a classic suit and tie, or
jeans and a blazer; you'll always look well put together.
47. STEP 1 :
Draw a horizontal line AB equal to back neck measurement
Extend the line B to C equal to front neck measurement.
STEP 2 :
Draw AD and CE = 5 cm which is the width of the collar, join ED.
STEP 3 :
Extend the line DE to F by 3 cm join FC. Mark point G 1.5cm
away from C on line CF.
STEP 4 :
Mark BG with a straight curve. Keep seam allowance extra.
If the line DF is straight line then keep it on fold. Variations in
point of the collar can be made by extending CF line to H ( at
desired length) and join DH with smooth curve
STEP 5 :
Cut along ABGFHDA.
49. Shawl collar
The shawl collar is a design in which the collar and the
bodice front are cut as one and the collar sections are
seamed together at centre back. When the collar folds
over, the front of the garment rolls back to create a lapel.
This collar always is worn open. The basic shawl collar is
developed by attaching a full roll collar to the bodice front
50. STEP 1 :
• Measure your back neckline from the shoulder
to the middle (usually the fold line).
• Determine where you want the breakpoint
(where the shawl collar turns) of the shawl
collar to be along the front pattern piece
canter. Mark an ‘X’ at this point along the front
center. Draw a straight line from your ‘X’, with
the line going through your inner shoulder
seam, and extends beyond to the measurement
you had from Step 1. For example, if half of your
back neckline was 5”, the line would extend 5”
beyond your shoulder seam.
• If desired, extend the front center 1” beyond
the normal front center. This will allow for
additional ‘turnage’ of the shawl collar.
• Determine how large you want your shawl collar
to be in width (mine is 6” wide). From the
extended line you drew in
51. • STEP 2 :
Draw a line from the top point, at a 90 degree
angle, towards the front center.
Draw a curved line from your 90 degree angle
line, down to your ‘X’ mark.
Cut (1) Back pattern piece on fold of both lining
Cut (2) mirror image Front pattern pieces of
both lining and exterior
53. Chinese collar
It is a short unfold stand up collar style on a shirt or
jacket . Its edges can be round or straight . Its edges
can meet at centre front or overlap slightly.
54. STEP 1 :
• Draw a horizontal line AB equal to ½ round neck
STEP 2 :
• Draw a perpendicular line AC on AB. AC is the width
of collar equal to 2.5 cm
STEP 3 :
• Draw a perpendicular line BD = 5 cm.
• BE is equal to 1.5 cm.
• AF is center back to shoulder measurement.
STEP 4 :
• Join EF with a slight curve.
• From the point E drew a line to make an angle of
22degree with line ED. Measure EG equal to collar
width , that is 2.5 cm.
56. Cap collar
A cap is an upper limit, or maximum
interest rate that will apply. A collar is
the lower limit, or minimum interest
rate that will apply.
57. STEP 1 :
• Fold your main fabric into quarters. Begin by folding the fabric in half width wise. Fold it in half again, also width
wise, to form a square. Rotate the fabric so that the folded corner is in the upper left-hand corner. Don't fold the
lining fabric just yet.
STEP 2 :
• Finish drawing your pattern. Add your radius measurement to your desired length measurement. Lengthen the
string according to that new measurement. Draw a second arch to make the bottom of your cape.
STEP 3 :
• Cut your fabric adding ½-inch (1.27-centimeter) seam allowances. When you are done, fold your lining fabric
into fourths, then place your cut fabric on top. Cut your lining using the cut outer fabric as a guide.
STEP 4 :
• Cut the front of your cape open. Unfold your outer and lining pieces and stack them together. Fold them in half
width wise so that you get a semi-circle. Cut along the left folded edge; leave the other one alone. This will
create the opening of your cape.