Perfumery presentation

DUY TRUONG
DUY TRUONGR&D à GROUPG ASIA PACIFIC
PERFUME
TRAINING
GENERAL
What Is
a Fragrance?
A combination obtained through bringing together
raw materials or simple notes. The harmony of such a
combination depends on the balance and olfactory
intensity of each note.
Composed of three moments in its life: top/head
notes, middle/heart notes, and bottom/base notes
that are created with knowledge of:
Evaporation process & Intended use of perfumery.
Top
Notes
Middle
Notes
Base
Notes
Top
Notes
Create the first impression, give initial sparks and
make an impact. Top notes are made up of lighter
molecules that evaporate the fastest.
Typical Ingredients: citrus notes, aromatic/herbal notes,
green notes, spicy notes.
Middle Notes
Middle notes add character. They follow the top notes and serve as a transition to the base notes.
Typical Ingredients: floral notes, fruity notes, spicy notes, green notes, aromatic/herbal notes.
Base notes support Top & Middle notes. They
evaporate the slowest, and have the strongest
long-lasting power, thus, determining much of the
character of a fragrance.
Ingredients: amber notes, woody notes, sweet
notes, musk notes, leather notes.
Base Notes
Raw Materials
Perfumery uses a very large range of raw materials (about 1500 different ones at
least), They can be divided by their origin:
ANIMAL
ambergris, musk,
castoreum, civet, etc
VEGETABLES
petals, flowers, rhizomes,
roots, wood, bark, grass,
leaves, fruits, seeds, pods,
beans, gums, resins, algae, etc
SYNTHETIC
petroleum (mineral origin),
turpentine or basic raw
materials of chemical industry:
coumarin, aldehyde, hedione,
vanillin, etc
Raw Materials
Carrot Seed Oil
Great perfumers are good at thinking outside the box,
focusing on scent and utilizing seemingly odd ingredients
to make amazing fragrances.
Olfactory
Families
Olfactory families allow individual perfumes to be
classified according to their key olfactory
characteristics.
They are created either by grouping together raw
materials (like flowers, woods, aromatics or citric
fruits) or by taking inspiration from traditional
accords (oriental or chypre, for example).
Olfactory Families - Traditional
Single Floral
Family
Dominated by
the scent from
one particular
flower
Floral Bouquet
Family
Combination of
several flowers
Amber/Oriental
Family
A mixture of
warmth and
sensuality
Woody
Family
Hot, dry and
elegant
masculine chords
Leather
Family
Midline between
masculine &
feminine, sharp &
characteristic aroma
Fougere
Family
Herbs, spices,
masculine and
aromatic scent
Chypre
Family
Characterized as
strong, spicy and
powdery
Olfactory Families – Modern
Bright Floral
Family
Combining the
traditional single
floral & floral
bouquet type
Green
Family
A lighter and more
modern kind of smell
than chypre family,
freshness is its
signature
Aquatic
Family
Bright, fresh and
natural touch
Citrus
Family
Clean and
freshening
Fruity
Family
Greedy and
sweet notes, very
playful
Gourmand
Family
Scents with “edible”
or “dessert” like
qualities
Natural perfume is a fragrance derived
completely from minimally processed natural
materials, containing only pure essential oil. It
doesn’t last for a very long time, but it’s 100%
biodegradable.
Natural
Perfume
Synthetic
Perfume
Synthetic perfumes are artificial
compounds / materials that contain
Synthetic + Natural scent ingredients +
Alcohol + Water. It lasts a lot longer than
natural perfumes, but it uses non-
renewable energy sources, so it’s more
aggressive to the environment.
Synthetic Perfume
Ingredients:
Are They Bad?
A bit of perfume math: 4 tons of
roses = 1.600.000 rose blossoms =
1 kg of rose oil.
Did You
Know?
Many synthetic ingredients are created as alternatives to
natural ingredients due to high costs (ie. iris),
overharvesting (ie. sandalwood), or regulation.
Ingredients are restricted or banned if they are in the
allergens list (ie. oakmoss), or because obtaining them
causes harm to natural species (ie. musk).
Synthetic materials allow perfumers to expand their
palettes, reinventing naturally occurring smells, and
creating entirely new smells.
TECHNICAL
Production
Process
Raw Material Essential Oils Pouring Blending Packing Quality Control
Raw Material
Essential oils & synthetic compounds
(named A, B, C, D in this diagram) are
stored horizontally in drums on shelves
Essential Oil
Pouring
We produce a mixture of essential oils
based on our own developed formulas
expressed as a quantity percentage.
Eg: Formula 325
Ingredient A= 20% Ingredient C=
45%
Ingredient B= 15% Ingredient D=
20%
Blending
Once all ingredients are in the inox tank, we
proceed to blend them until the mix is
homogeneous.
Packing
We pack the resulting oil blends back in drums
or other Chemarome packaging options. Now, it
is ready to be shipped to our client.
Quality Control
We set up Quality Procedures based on ISO 9001
that ensure that our products and services comply
with a defined set of quality criteria and meet the
customer requirements.
Fragrance Storage
Fragrance compounds in perfumes will degrade or break down if
improperly stored in the presence of:
1) Heat 3) Oxygen
2) Light 4) Extraneous Organic Materials
The shelf life of a fragrance in an un-opened drum is about 2 years.
Formula
Structure
Adapting formulas to different applications
is something very common in the perfumery
industry.
To ensure an optimum result, we must adapt
the formula structure (top, body and base)
to the final application.
A Fragrance for Dishwashing Liquid
Does not need to be long lasting
because customers do not want to
have their lunch on scented dishes.
That is the reason why the top note is
the main one, followed by the body
note and with a nearly inexistent base.
A Fragrance for Fabric Softener
Consumers these days want their laundry
to smell fresh and clean not only when they
are first taken from the wash, but for weeks
afterwards. That is the reason why base
notes are dosed significantly in fragrances
for Fabric softener.
Formula Structure
Personal Care
EDT Body Milk Shower Gel
25%
25%
50%
15%
Covering Effect
30%
Sniff
55%
Substantivity
10%
Covering Effect
40%
50%
Formula Structure
Household
Multipurpose/Disinfectant Dishwashing LiquidEDT
25%
25%
50%
30%
Covering Effect
Air Freshening
25%
Sniff
45%
Long Lasting
35%
Covering Effect
60%
5%
Fixation
Fabric Softener
15%
25%
60%
Multipurpose/
Disinfectants
30%
25%
45%
Candles
20%
30%
50%
Body Milk
15%
30%
55%
EDT
25%
25%
50%
Electric Air
Freshener
65%
10%
25%
Detergent
15%
25%
60%
Shower Gel
10%
40%
50%
Mikados
35%
55%
10%
Dishwashing Liquid
35%
60%
5%
Formula
Structure
Fragrance
Dosage
Applications Dosage
Perfume 18-25%
Eau de Perfume 12-22%
Eau de Toilette 8-15%
Bath Products 0.5-5%
Body Wash 0.3-1%
Shampoo 0.3-1%
Applications Dosage
Creams 0.2-0.5%
Emulsions 0.1-1%
Detergents 0.1-1%
Fabric Softeners 0.1-1%
Soaps 0.5-3%
MARKETING
What We Do
Olfactory Beauty Field
i
Fine Fragrances Personal Care Products
Shower gel, Shampoo,
Deodorant, Cream
Products Application
Fine Fragrances & Personal Care Products
Western Fragrances &
Oriental Fragrances
Detergents & Floor Cleaners
Products Application
Home Care Applications
Air Fresheners, Candles & Bakhoor
Paints, Glue & Lubricants
Products Application
Industrial Applications
1 sur 33

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Perfumery presentation

  • 3. What Is a Fragrance? A combination obtained through bringing together raw materials or simple notes. The harmony of such a combination depends on the balance and olfactory intensity of each note. Composed of three moments in its life: top/head notes, middle/heart notes, and bottom/base notes that are created with knowledge of: Evaporation process & Intended use of perfumery. Top Notes Middle Notes Base Notes
  • 4. Top Notes Create the first impression, give initial sparks and make an impact. Top notes are made up of lighter molecules that evaporate the fastest. Typical Ingredients: citrus notes, aromatic/herbal notes, green notes, spicy notes.
  • 5. Middle Notes Middle notes add character. They follow the top notes and serve as a transition to the base notes. Typical Ingredients: floral notes, fruity notes, spicy notes, green notes, aromatic/herbal notes.
  • 6. Base notes support Top & Middle notes. They evaporate the slowest, and have the strongest long-lasting power, thus, determining much of the character of a fragrance. Ingredients: amber notes, woody notes, sweet notes, musk notes, leather notes. Base Notes
  • 7. Raw Materials Perfumery uses a very large range of raw materials (about 1500 different ones at least), They can be divided by their origin: ANIMAL ambergris, musk, castoreum, civet, etc VEGETABLES petals, flowers, rhizomes, roots, wood, bark, grass, leaves, fruits, seeds, pods, beans, gums, resins, algae, etc SYNTHETIC petroleum (mineral origin), turpentine or basic raw materials of chemical industry: coumarin, aldehyde, hedione, vanillin, etc
  • 8. Raw Materials Carrot Seed Oil Great perfumers are good at thinking outside the box, focusing on scent and utilizing seemingly odd ingredients to make amazing fragrances.
  • 9. Olfactory Families Olfactory families allow individual perfumes to be classified according to their key olfactory characteristics. They are created either by grouping together raw materials (like flowers, woods, aromatics or citric fruits) or by taking inspiration from traditional accords (oriental or chypre, for example).
  • 10. Olfactory Families - Traditional Single Floral Family Dominated by the scent from one particular flower Floral Bouquet Family Combination of several flowers Amber/Oriental Family A mixture of warmth and sensuality Woody Family Hot, dry and elegant masculine chords Leather Family Midline between masculine & feminine, sharp & characteristic aroma Fougere Family Herbs, spices, masculine and aromatic scent Chypre Family Characterized as strong, spicy and powdery
  • 11. Olfactory Families – Modern Bright Floral Family Combining the traditional single floral & floral bouquet type Green Family A lighter and more modern kind of smell than chypre family, freshness is its signature Aquatic Family Bright, fresh and natural touch Citrus Family Clean and freshening Fruity Family Greedy and sweet notes, very playful Gourmand Family Scents with “edible” or “dessert” like qualities
  • 12. Natural perfume is a fragrance derived completely from minimally processed natural materials, containing only pure essential oil. It doesn’t last for a very long time, but it’s 100% biodegradable. Natural Perfume
  • 13. Synthetic Perfume Synthetic perfumes are artificial compounds / materials that contain Synthetic + Natural scent ingredients + Alcohol + Water. It lasts a lot longer than natural perfumes, but it uses non- renewable energy sources, so it’s more aggressive to the environment.
  • 15. A bit of perfume math: 4 tons of roses = 1.600.000 rose blossoms = 1 kg of rose oil. Did You Know? Many synthetic ingredients are created as alternatives to natural ingredients due to high costs (ie. iris), overharvesting (ie. sandalwood), or regulation. Ingredients are restricted or banned if they are in the allergens list (ie. oakmoss), or because obtaining them causes harm to natural species (ie. musk). Synthetic materials allow perfumers to expand their palettes, reinventing naturally occurring smells, and creating entirely new smells.
  • 17. Production Process Raw Material Essential Oils Pouring Blending Packing Quality Control
  • 18. Raw Material Essential oils & synthetic compounds (named A, B, C, D in this diagram) are stored horizontally in drums on shelves
  • 19. Essential Oil Pouring We produce a mixture of essential oils based on our own developed formulas expressed as a quantity percentage. Eg: Formula 325 Ingredient A= 20% Ingredient C= 45% Ingredient B= 15% Ingredient D= 20%
  • 20. Blending Once all ingredients are in the inox tank, we proceed to blend them until the mix is homogeneous.
  • 21. Packing We pack the resulting oil blends back in drums or other Chemarome packaging options. Now, it is ready to be shipped to our client.
  • 22. Quality Control We set up Quality Procedures based on ISO 9001 that ensure that our products and services comply with a defined set of quality criteria and meet the customer requirements.
  • 23. Fragrance Storage Fragrance compounds in perfumes will degrade or break down if improperly stored in the presence of: 1) Heat 3) Oxygen 2) Light 4) Extraneous Organic Materials The shelf life of a fragrance in an un-opened drum is about 2 years.
  • 24. Formula Structure Adapting formulas to different applications is something very common in the perfumery industry. To ensure an optimum result, we must adapt the formula structure (top, body and base) to the final application. A Fragrance for Dishwashing Liquid Does not need to be long lasting because customers do not want to have their lunch on scented dishes. That is the reason why the top note is the main one, followed by the body note and with a nearly inexistent base. A Fragrance for Fabric Softener Consumers these days want their laundry to smell fresh and clean not only when they are first taken from the wash, but for weeks afterwards. That is the reason why base notes are dosed significantly in fragrances for Fabric softener.
  • 25. Formula Structure Personal Care EDT Body Milk Shower Gel 25% 25% 50% 15% Covering Effect 30% Sniff 55% Substantivity 10% Covering Effect 40% 50%
  • 26. Formula Structure Household Multipurpose/Disinfectant Dishwashing LiquidEDT 25% 25% 50% 30% Covering Effect Air Freshening 25% Sniff 45% Long Lasting 35% Covering Effect 60% 5% Fixation
  • 27. Fabric Softener 15% 25% 60% Multipurpose/ Disinfectants 30% 25% 45% Candles 20% 30% 50% Body Milk 15% 30% 55% EDT 25% 25% 50% Electric Air Freshener 65% 10% 25% Detergent 15% 25% 60% Shower Gel 10% 40% 50% Mikados 35% 55% 10% Dishwashing Liquid 35% 60% 5% Formula Structure
  • 28. Fragrance Dosage Applications Dosage Perfume 18-25% Eau de Perfume 12-22% Eau de Toilette 8-15% Bath Products 0.5-5% Body Wash 0.3-1% Shampoo 0.3-1% Applications Dosage Creams 0.2-0.5% Emulsions 0.1-1% Detergents 0.1-1% Fabric Softeners 0.1-1% Soaps 0.5-3%
  • 30. What We Do Olfactory Beauty Field
  • 31. i Fine Fragrances Personal Care Products Shower gel, Shampoo, Deodorant, Cream Products Application Fine Fragrances & Personal Care Products Western Fragrances & Oriental Fragrances
  • 32. Detergents & Floor Cleaners Products Application Home Care Applications Air Fresheners, Candles & Bakhoor
  • 33. Paints, Glue & Lubricants Products Application Industrial Applications