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In Search of Jewish Musical Traditions
Turkey
A Brief History
1900 BCE – 323 BCE
The Hitites (ancestors
of the Israelites)
dominated Anatolia
from the Middle
Bronze Age. Then the
Persians invaded
followed by…




                         Alexander the Great.
133 BCE – 395 CE
    The Romans brought peace, prosperity, and
    Christianity during a rule lasting nearly five
    centuries. Emperor Constantine built a new
    capital – Constantinople.
399- 678 CE
This eastern
Roman or
Byzantine
empire thrived
under Justinian
(527-566 CE)
until Muslem
armies invaded
from Arabia.
1071-1243 CE
                                    The first Turkic people arrived from the
                                    steppes of Central Asia.




These Seljuks fought off the Crusaders
and the Mongols and gave rise to the
Ottomans.
1299 – 1914 CE
By 1820 the Ottoman Empire stretched from the Gulf to Vienna, all along the
north coast of Africa, around the Red Sea and to the shores of the Caspian.
1914 -1918
The British supported an Arab revolt against
the Ottomans, who sided with Germany
during the First World War. After the war,
the League of Nations took over the Empire.




        Lawrence of Arabia
1920 -1922 CE
The Ottoman Empire fell as its subjects
revolted. The Greeks invaded western
Turkey.


                             General
                             Mustafa
                             Kemal
                             organized
                             Turkish
                             forces to
                             defend the
                             Turkish
                             heartland.
1923
       The Turks reversed the
       Greek advance and
       retained Turkey.
       Mustafa (known as
       Attatürk, “Father Turk”)
       changed Turkey into a
       secular democracy.
1939 -1945 CE
Turkey entered the Second World War on the side of
the Allies shortly before its end and consequently
benefited from US aid.



                                   1960 Military Coup.
                                    The army staged its
                                   almost bloodless
                                   coup against the DP
                                   (Democractic Peak)
                                   government. Civilian
                                   rule was established
                                   in 1961.
1971 “Coup by memorandum.”
After three years of political violence and economic problems,
the army took over after signaling their intentions in a series
of memos.


                                         1974 Turkey
                                         invaded northern
                                         Cyprus claiming it
                                         was to protect
                                         Turkish Cypriots
                                         from a Greek
                                         Cypriot military
                                         takeover in the
                                         south of the island.
1980 More economic problems; another coup.
                      Civilian power restored in 1983.




                           Fighting between Turkish
                             forces and Kurdistan
                               Workers’ Party erupts.

                      By 1999 30,000 were dead.
2005
Talks on membership to the European Union begin in
October 2005 contingent on Turkish recognition of Cyprus.
Our trip began on a Thursday afternoon in January as four JTS
 students, Rabbi Hillel and Debby Millgram, Professor Edwin
    and Cantor Marlena boarded the El Al flight to Istanbul.
Istanbul has a unique
position in the World by
being the only city settled
on two different continents
and thereby offering a
chance to make an
intercontinental trip by bus
or ferry like some of the
Istanbullers do everyday
After the flight,
       there’s a 45 min bus ride into the city.
            From the bus the views are
                   breathtaking…




Matt
                        Yakov




                                             The Boss
                The Rav
Arriving in the evening the magic
that has captured imaginations for
centuries took hold of our group
of pilgrims.
We hurriedly checked into our hotel and rushed out into the
unseasonably warm winter evening. Streets were teeming with
activity. The energy was contagious.
Istiklal Caddesi,
a main pedestrian street
Friday
   Museums, a church that
became a mosque, that became
  a museum, ancient cisterns
         & Shabbat
Jon




Friday morning Taksim Square was
just as lively. We choose this area
as it is walking distances from the
two B’tei Knesset which were on our
agenda for Shabbat.
At the center of Taksim Square
is the Monument to the Republic
Finding it was a little tricky but
                              luckily we brought our Israeli
                              logistics officer & as you can see
                              he has every under control?!




                                              ¿Dónde
                                               están
Our first stop was the                          yo?
Archeological Museum
which houses treasures from
Biblical times forward.
The Archeological Museum
Rabbi Hillel, tour guide to the museum
Hittite Copy
of the treaty
between
Eqypt
(Ramses II)
and the
Hittite Empire
after
the Battle of
Kadesh
Ishtar Gate


After the destruction of the first temple in 586 BCE, the
Hebrew Exiles were taken as prisoners to Babylonia. The
entrance to the city, The Ishtar Gate, built by Nebuchadnezar
II, opened to the great processional way in which the walls
were covered with giant, fierce animals made of tiles. A
number of these wall hangings were brought to the
Archaeological Museum in Istanbul.
‫ע־ל־נהורו ת ּב־ל שב ם וישבנו גב ם בכוינו  ּזכורנו א ת־צויון‬
  ‫הַ הַ ורֲ תֹ ב תֶ ׁ ָּ ׁ ֵרְ  ּ  ּ  ּ יִ  ּ ֵרְ ָּ ֵרְ ונֵ  ּ תֶ יִ תֹ‬
                         ‫ב‬         ‫ָּ הַ הַ ָּ‬            ‫ָּ‬
By the waters of Babylon,
there we sat down, yea,
we wept, when we
remembered Zion.
(Ps.137)
Nevel  Kinor,
                                    Biblical harps




  ‫ַ ל לווהו ּונב ל וכונו ר‬
    ֹ‫וה כְ ּ ּ בלֶבֵ  לֶ כְ ונִ ר‬
                      ְ‫כ‬
 Praise Him with harp and
lyre.
 Praise Him with timbrel and
Larry   Moe   Curly
Blowing me a
                                 kiss




We weren’t the only class on a field trip that day.
Alexander the Great
Sarcophagus
Sarcophagus of The Weeping Women
We
survived!   Hadrian,
            Roman
            Emperor
            whose
            persecu-
            tion of
            Jews led
            to Bar
            Kochba
            revolt in
            135 CE.
Ayasofya (Hagia Sophia) Museum
Hagia Sophia church was built over the remains of the
previous basilica by order of Justinian, the Byzantine
Emperor. The construction was started in 532 and
completed in five years. In Hagia Sophia, Justinian had
attempted
for the first
time in the
history of
architecture
to build a
gigantic
central
dome over a
rectangular
plan.
The interior illustrates
Hagia Sofia’s various
incarnations.
Hagia Sophia, which was converted to a mosque in Ottoman period, was turned into
a museum on Atatürk's orders after the foundation of Turkish Republic.
Yerebatan (Basilica)
Cistern
The largest of covered
cisterns in the city was
built during the reign of
Justinian I, the Byzantine
Emperor. 336 columns
arranged in 12 rows
support brick cross-vaults
covering an area of 9800
sq.m. Lots of fish swim
very happily in the cistern.
I’m head    Yicks!
  over
heels for
   you




                Hazzanijanim
The Sultan Ahmed Mosque (Sultanahmet Camii, aka Blue Mosque)
is known for its six minarets and its visual effect of perfect harmony.
Because Shabbat comes early in January, we rushed
back to the hotel midafternoon to prepare for Erev
Shabbat services at Beth Israel and the main focus of
our trip – the Jewish musical traditions of Turkey.
Early Jews to
       Istanbul




Jews have lived in Turkey more than 500 years. Most of them were exiled from Spain
and came to Turkey to start a new life. During the 16th century the Sultan accepted the
Jews into the Ottoman Empire and they were allowed to work, rent houses, marry, have
their own business and also pray. These Jews spoke Judeo-Spanish and until today you
can find Jewish families who speak this dialect at home. The music in this presentation is
from the Turkish-Sephardic Tradition.
Following the
collapse of the
Ottoman
empire, many
minorities left
the country.
Today
statistics show
that there are
about 20
thousand Jews
in Turkey and a
number of
synagogues.
While for the
most part they
live in peace
with Christians
and Muslims,
the community
was shattered
when ...
In 1986 Palestinian gunmen rushed into Neve Shalom synagogue
during Shabbat morning services and opened fire on the clergy and
congregation killing 22 worshippers and wounding six.

      And…

The Iranian-backed Shiite Muslim group Hezbollah carried out a
bomb attack against the synagogue in 1992. No one was injured.

       And...

On November 15, 2003, two truck bombs simultaniously slammed
into the Neve Shalom and Beth Israel synagogues and exploded
during Shabbat morning Bar Mitzvah celebration. The explosions
devastated the synagogues and killed twenty-seven people, most of
them Turkish Muslims, also injuring more than 300 others. Six Jews
were among the dead.
Neve
Shalom
exterior
before
the
terrorists’
attacks
Shall priest and
prophet be slain
in the
sanctuary
of the
Lord?
Let tears
run down
like a river…


                …day and
                night. (Echa 2)
The
hallowed
stones are
poured out…
…at the top of every
street. (Echa 4)
Memorial Plaque and new entrance to
           Neve Shalom
Due to the terrorist attacks all visitors are required to
register with the office of the Chief Rabbi before visiting
the Istanbul synagogues.

Our plan was to daven Erev Shabbat at Beth Israel and
Shabbat morning at Neve Shalom and return for
Shabbat Mincha/Maariv to Beth Israel.

Hazzan David Zvi of Beit Knesset Beth Israel invited
our group to tour the shul Friday afternoon before
Shabbat.
As our cabs approached the area of the Beth Israel, all roads were
blocked. The drivers left us near a subway station and still having a
little time before Shabbat, we took the train to a station a few blocks
from the shul. When we came out of the train station we learned that
the Armenian outspoken yet moderate editor/reporter Hrank Dink had
been assasinated only two blocks from Beth Israel in the Shishli
district…

…our destination.

The city was in uproar.
With this lastest addition to crimes against ethnic and religious groups a pall
descended on the Erev Shabbat services. None the less we were warmly
welcomed Friday evening at Beth Israel and Shabbat morning at Neve Shalom.

At Neve Shalom the students were given special honors in the service and we
were invited to Kiddush after which the president acted as our personal tour guide
to the synagogue.

The Turkish Tradition is very formal with the Chief Rabbi appearing in purple
vestments and the under rabbis in red. Mourners are greeted during the service
and worshipers have a set of gestures not seen in Ashkenaz synagogues and
which were quite a delight to our American students.
Neve Shalom
Synagogue
(1949) is the
most beautiful
and important
synagogue in
Istanbul,
where most of
the religious
ceremonies
like bar
mitzahs,
weddings and
funerals are
held.
Shabbat afternoon we walked back to Beth Israel to join Hazzan David Zvi
and about 30 men in the resurrected tradition of singing Maftirim*. Even the
director of the program (poor, lowly woman that she is) was given a song booklet
and allowed to join in. Following this lively jam session mincha and maariv
services were attended by more than 100 Turkish Jews: men, women and children.
*Maftirim is a musical form
of para-liturgical poetry
which originated from the
interaction of Jewish and
Muslim Sufis** in 16th
century.

                       **Sufism is a mystic tradition within
                       Islam that encompasses a diverse range
                       of beliefs and practices dedicated to
                       Divine love and the cultivation of the
                       elements of the Divine within the
                       individual human being. Practitioners of
                       this tradition are known as Sufis
                       generally, though some senior
                       members of the tradition reserve this
                       term for those who have attained the
                       goals of the tradition.
Fish is the specialty of the chic restaurant district on Istiklal Caddesi.
Debby’s in
charge of
choosing
And more
Which
way to
 the
BALL?
S
           Yakov
                   i
                   d

Matt
       Or the
       Mosad
The Library
From the palace grounds a view of the Bosporus…




  Yakov
…and Asia!
Sunday afternoon walk
offered views of the many mosques
Süleymaniye (Suleiman) Mosque
This 16th century masterpiece was
constructed by Architect Sinan, the
most famous of Ottoman architects,
by order of Süleyman the
Magnificient. Its construction was
began in 1550 and was finished in
1557. The 53 m. high central dome of
the mosque rests on four pillars,
called elephant-feet, and has a
diameter of 26.5 m.
Süleymaniye interior
Süleymaniye
Fatih Mosque
There was no shortage of goodies…
And the shop keepers
happily displayed
their treasures to the
guys…
Grabbing a fish sandwich on the banks of The Bosphorus.
One last look…
A little more window shopping…
One last cuppa Turkish coffee…
Talking Turkey
Talking Turkey

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Talking Turkey

  • 1. In Search of Jewish Musical Traditions
  • 3. 1900 BCE – 323 BCE The Hitites (ancestors of the Israelites) dominated Anatolia from the Middle Bronze Age. Then the Persians invaded followed by… Alexander the Great.
  • 4. 133 BCE – 395 CE The Romans brought peace, prosperity, and Christianity during a rule lasting nearly five centuries. Emperor Constantine built a new capital – Constantinople.
  • 5. 399- 678 CE This eastern Roman or Byzantine empire thrived under Justinian (527-566 CE) until Muslem armies invaded from Arabia.
  • 6. 1071-1243 CE The first Turkic people arrived from the steppes of Central Asia. These Seljuks fought off the Crusaders and the Mongols and gave rise to the Ottomans.
  • 7. 1299 – 1914 CE By 1820 the Ottoman Empire stretched from the Gulf to Vienna, all along the north coast of Africa, around the Red Sea and to the shores of the Caspian.
  • 8. 1914 -1918 The British supported an Arab revolt against the Ottomans, who sided with Germany during the First World War. After the war, the League of Nations took over the Empire. Lawrence of Arabia
  • 9. 1920 -1922 CE The Ottoman Empire fell as its subjects revolted. The Greeks invaded western Turkey. General Mustafa Kemal organized Turkish forces to defend the Turkish heartland.
  • 10. 1923 The Turks reversed the Greek advance and retained Turkey. Mustafa (known as Attatürk, “Father Turk”) changed Turkey into a secular democracy.
  • 11. 1939 -1945 CE Turkey entered the Second World War on the side of the Allies shortly before its end and consequently benefited from US aid. 1960 Military Coup. The army staged its almost bloodless coup against the DP (Democractic Peak) government. Civilian rule was established in 1961.
  • 12. 1971 “Coup by memorandum.” After three years of political violence and economic problems, the army took over after signaling their intentions in a series of memos. 1974 Turkey invaded northern Cyprus claiming it was to protect Turkish Cypriots from a Greek Cypriot military takeover in the south of the island.
  • 13. 1980 More economic problems; another coup. Civilian power restored in 1983. Fighting between Turkish forces and Kurdistan Workers’ Party erupts. By 1999 30,000 were dead.
  • 14. 2005 Talks on membership to the European Union begin in October 2005 contingent on Turkish recognition of Cyprus.
  • 15. Our trip began on a Thursday afternoon in January as four JTS students, Rabbi Hillel and Debby Millgram, Professor Edwin and Cantor Marlena boarded the El Al flight to Istanbul.
  • 16.
  • 17. Istanbul has a unique position in the World by being the only city settled on two different continents and thereby offering a chance to make an intercontinental trip by bus or ferry like some of the Istanbullers do everyday
  • 18. After the flight, there’s a 45 min bus ride into the city. From the bus the views are breathtaking… Matt Yakov The Boss The Rav
  • 19. Arriving in the evening the magic that has captured imaginations for centuries took hold of our group of pilgrims.
  • 20.
  • 21. We hurriedly checked into our hotel and rushed out into the unseasonably warm winter evening. Streets were teeming with activity. The energy was contagious.
  • 22. Istiklal Caddesi, a main pedestrian street
  • 23. Friday Museums, a church that became a mosque, that became a museum, ancient cisterns & Shabbat
  • 24. Jon Friday morning Taksim Square was just as lively. We choose this area as it is walking distances from the two B’tei Knesset which were on our agenda for Shabbat.
  • 25. At the center of Taksim Square is the Monument to the Republic
  • 26. Finding it was a little tricky but luckily we brought our Israeli logistics officer & as you can see he has every under control?! ¿Dónde están Our first stop was the yo? Archeological Museum which houses treasures from Biblical times forward.
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  • 30. Rabbi Hillel, tour guide to the museum
  • 31. Hittite Copy of the treaty between Eqypt (Ramses II) and the Hittite Empire after the Battle of Kadesh
  • 32.
  • 33. Ishtar Gate After the destruction of the first temple in 586 BCE, the Hebrew Exiles were taken as prisoners to Babylonia. The entrance to the city, The Ishtar Gate, built by Nebuchadnezar II, opened to the great processional way in which the walls were covered with giant, fierce animals made of tiles. A number of these wall hangings were brought to the Archaeological Museum in Istanbul.
  • 34. ‫ע־ל־נהורו ת ּב־ל שב ם וישבנו גב ם בכוינו ּזכורנו א ת־צויון‬ ‫הַ הַ ורֲ תֹ ב תֶ ׁ ָּ ׁ ֵרְ ּ ּ ּ יִ ּ ֵרְ ָּ ֵרְ ונֵ ּ תֶ יִ תֹ‬ ‫ב‬ ‫ָּ הַ הַ ָּ‬ ‫ָּ‬
  • 35. By the waters of Babylon, there we sat down, yea, we wept, when we remembered Zion. (Ps.137)
  • 36.
  • 37. Nevel Kinor, Biblical harps ‫ַ ל לווהו ּונב ל וכונו ר‬ ֹ‫וה כְ ּ ּ בלֶבֵ לֶ כְ ונִ ר‬ ְ‫כ‬ Praise Him with harp and lyre. Praise Him with timbrel and
  • 38. Larry Moe Curly
  • 39.
  • 40. Blowing me a kiss We weren’t the only class on a field trip that day.
  • 41.
  • 43.
  • 44. Sarcophagus of The Weeping Women
  • 45. We survived! Hadrian, Roman Emperor whose persecu- tion of Jews led to Bar Kochba revolt in 135 CE.
  • 46.
  • 47. Ayasofya (Hagia Sophia) Museum Hagia Sophia church was built over the remains of the previous basilica by order of Justinian, the Byzantine Emperor. The construction was started in 532 and completed in five years. In Hagia Sophia, Justinian had attempted for the first time in the history of architecture to build a gigantic central dome over a rectangular plan.
  • 48.
  • 49. The interior illustrates Hagia Sofia’s various incarnations.
  • 50. Hagia Sophia, which was converted to a mosque in Ottoman period, was turned into a museum on Atatürk's orders after the foundation of Turkish Republic.
  • 51.
  • 52.
  • 53.
  • 54. Yerebatan (Basilica) Cistern The largest of covered cisterns in the city was built during the reign of Justinian I, the Byzantine Emperor. 336 columns arranged in 12 rows support brick cross-vaults covering an area of 9800 sq.m. Lots of fish swim very happily in the cistern.
  • 55.
  • 56. I’m head Yicks! over heels for you Hazzanijanim
  • 57. The Sultan Ahmed Mosque (Sultanahmet Camii, aka Blue Mosque) is known for its six minarets and its visual effect of perfect harmony.
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  • 59.
  • 60.
  • 61.
  • 62. Because Shabbat comes early in January, we rushed back to the hotel midafternoon to prepare for Erev Shabbat services at Beth Israel and the main focus of our trip – the Jewish musical traditions of Turkey.
  • 63. Early Jews to Istanbul Jews have lived in Turkey more than 500 years. Most of them were exiled from Spain and came to Turkey to start a new life. During the 16th century the Sultan accepted the Jews into the Ottoman Empire and they were allowed to work, rent houses, marry, have their own business and also pray. These Jews spoke Judeo-Spanish and until today you can find Jewish families who speak this dialect at home. The music in this presentation is from the Turkish-Sephardic Tradition.
  • 64. Following the collapse of the Ottoman empire, many minorities left the country. Today statistics show that there are about 20 thousand Jews in Turkey and a number of synagogues. While for the most part they live in peace with Christians and Muslims, the community was shattered when ...
  • 65. In 1986 Palestinian gunmen rushed into Neve Shalom synagogue during Shabbat morning services and opened fire on the clergy and congregation killing 22 worshippers and wounding six. And… The Iranian-backed Shiite Muslim group Hezbollah carried out a bomb attack against the synagogue in 1992. No one was injured. And... On November 15, 2003, two truck bombs simultaniously slammed into the Neve Shalom and Beth Israel synagogues and exploded during Shabbat morning Bar Mitzvah celebration. The explosions devastated the synagogues and killed twenty-seven people, most of them Turkish Muslims, also injuring more than 300 others. Six Jews were among the dead.
  • 67. Shall priest and prophet be slain in the sanctuary of the Lord?
  • 68. Let tears run down like a river… …day and night. (Echa 2)
  • 70. …at the top of every street. (Echa 4)
  • 71. Memorial Plaque and new entrance to Neve Shalom
  • 72. Due to the terrorist attacks all visitors are required to register with the office of the Chief Rabbi before visiting the Istanbul synagogues. Our plan was to daven Erev Shabbat at Beth Israel and Shabbat morning at Neve Shalom and return for Shabbat Mincha/Maariv to Beth Israel. Hazzan David Zvi of Beit Knesset Beth Israel invited our group to tour the shul Friday afternoon before Shabbat.
  • 73. As our cabs approached the area of the Beth Israel, all roads were blocked. The drivers left us near a subway station and still having a little time before Shabbat, we took the train to a station a few blocks from the shul. When we came out of the train station we learned that the Armenian outspoken yet moderate editor/reporter Hrank Dink had been assasinated only two blocks from Beth Israel in the Shishli district… …our destination. The city was in uproar.
  • 74. With this lastest addition to crimes against ethnic and religious groups a pall descended on the Erev Shabbat services. None the less we were warmly welcomed Friday evening at Beth Israel and Shabbat morning at Neve Shalom. At Neve Shalom the students were given special honors in the service and we were invited to Kiddush after which the president acted as our personal tour guide to the synagogue. The Turkish Tradition is very formal with the Chief Rabbi appearing in purple vestments and the under rabbis in red. Mourners are greeted during the service and worshipers have a set of gestures not seen in Ashkenaz synagogues and which were quite a delight to our American students.
  • 75. Neve Shalom Synagogue (1949) is the most beautiful and important synagogue in Istanbul, where most of the religious ceremonies like bar mitzahs, weddings and funerals are held.
  • 76. Shabbat afternoon we walked back to Beth Israel to join Hazzan David Zvi and about 30 men in the resurrected tradition of singing Maftirim*. Even the director of the program (poor, lowly woman that she is) was given a song booklet and allowed to join in. Following this lively jam session mincha and maariv services were attended by more than 100 Turkish Jews: men, women and children.
  • 77. *Maftirim is a musical form of para-liturgical poetry which originated from the interaction of Jewish and Muslim Sufis** in 16th century. **Sufism is a mystic tradition within Islam that encompasses a diverse range of beliefs and practices dedicated to Divine love and the cultivation of the elements of the Divine within the individual human being. Practitioners of this tradition are known as Sufis generally, though some senior members of the tradition reserve this term for those who have attained the goals of the tradition.
  • 78.
  • 79.
  • 80. Fish is the specialty of the chic restaurant district on Istiklal Caddesi.
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  • 84.
  • 86. S Yakov i d Matt Or the Mosad
  • 88.
  • 89. From the palace grounds a view of the Bosporus… Yakov
  • 91. Sunday afternoon walk offered views of the many mosques
  • 92. Süleymaniye (Suleiman) Mosque This 16th century masterpiece was constructed by Architect Sinan, the most famous of Ottoman architects, by order of Süleyman the Magnificient. Its construction was began in 1550 and was finished in 1557. The 53 m. high central dome of the mosque rests on four pillars, called elephant-feet, and has a diameter of 26.5 m.
  • 96. There was no shortage of goodies…
  • 97. And the shop keepers happily displayed their treasures to the guys…
  • 98.
  • 99. Grabbing a fish sandwich on the banks of The Bosphorus.
  • 101. A little more window shopping…
  • 102. One last cuppa Turkish coffee…