1. Beirut Arab University
Faculty of Science
Chemistry Department
Chemistry of cosmetics
Collagen
Submitted by:
Mayssam Chahine
Presented to:
Dr. Mohamad Abdul Ghani

2. 1.History of Cosmetics
2.Ingredients for Cosmetics
3.Creams
4.Skin structure
5.Collagen
Contents:

3. 1.The History of Cosmetics

4. i.4000 BC:
The Egyptians applied Mesdemet (made of copper and lead ore), bright
green paste, to their faces.
They used kohl a combination of burnt almonds, oxidized copper,
lead, ash, and ochre.
Then, they applied a mixture of red clay and water to their
lips and cheeks.
And the nails weren’t left out, either. They used “henna” to
dye them orange or yellow.
They also used perfumed oils.

5. ii. 1500 BC:
In China and Japan rice powder was used to paint faces pasty white.
iii. 1000 BC :
In Greece they used chalk or white lead face powder to have a white look.
Women used ochre clays laced with red iron for lipstick.
iv. 100 AD:
In Rome people put barley flour and butter on their pimples, and sheep’s
fat and blood on their fingernails for polish. They took mud baths.
Men frequently dyed their hair blond.

6. v. 1980- Present:
Due to the influence of movie stars, the Hollywood “tan” look emerges.
In 1935 Max Factor of Hollywood develops and introduces pancake makeup
because of the adjustments required for photographing faces for film.
There is a diversity of new looks, cosmetics and beauty aids.
They form an industry of over $20 billion in sales annually.

7. 2.Ingredients
for Cosmetics

8. Coloring
Agents
Bases
Bulking
Agents
Sunscreen
agents
Thickeners
Additives
1.Oils
2.Waxes
3.Water and Mineral
Oil
4.Fatty Esters
1.Organic Dyes
2.Coal tar colors
1.Talc
2.French chalk
3.Exotic Bulking
Agents
1. Fragrances
2. Preservatives
Ingredients
for
Cosmetics

9. The U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) which regulates cosmetics in the
United States define cosmetics as:
"Intended to be applied to the human body for cleansing, beautifying, promoting
attractiveness, or altering the appearance without affecting the body's structure
or functions."
Cosmetics are used to enhance the appearance or odor of the human body.
A subset of cosmetics is called "make-up", which refers primarily to colored products
intended to alter the user’s appearance. Many manufacturers distinguish between
decorative cosmetics and care cosmetics.
It includes skin-care creams, lotions, powders, perfumes, lipsticks, fingernail and toe
nail polish, eye and facial makeup, permanent waves, colored contact lenses, hair
colors, hair sprays and gels, deodorants, baby products, bath oils, bubble baths, bath
salts, butters and many other types of products.

10. 3. Creams

11. Creams
Creams are prepared synthetically from chemicals.
Some of the common ingredients present in all facial creams are:
 oils like olive oil, almond oil and mineral oil
 Fats and waxes such as bees wax, spermaceti and paraffin.
 emulsifier
 water
 Perfume
Creams are semi-solid emulsions, which is mixtures of oil and water.

12. Emulsions
An emulsion can be defined simply as two immiscible fluids in which one liquid
is dispersed as fine droplets in the other.
They are divided into two types:
1. Oil-in-water (O/W) creams which are composed of small droplets of oil
dispersed in a continuous aqueous phase (less greasy and more easily
washed off using water) .
2. Water-in-oil (W/O) creams which are composed of small droplets of water
dispersed in a continuous oily phase (more moisturising and reduces water
loss from the stratum corneum) .

13. Types of
Creams and
Lotions

14. Types of Creams and Lotions
1) Moisturizers
2) Cleansing Creams
3) Cold creams
4) Vanishing creams
5) Bleach creams
6) Skin rejuvenating cream

15. Skin rejuvenating cream
Anti-aging creams gives a younger look by reducing :
visible wrinkles, expression lines, pigmentation changes, discolorations and other
environmentally related conditions of the skin.
Anti-aging creams usually contain ingredients such as:
1)Retinol (retinyl palmitate): reduce fine lines and pores.
2)Epidermal Growth Factor (EGF) made of 53 amino acids to stimulate cell
renewal and Collagen production in the skin and strengthen elasticity and structure.
3)Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) and beta hydroxy acids:
help to dissolve the intracellular "glue" that holds the dead cells together on the skin
and stimulates the production of fresh skin cells to compensate for the missing ones.
This exposes newer skin cells and can help improve appearance.

16. 4.Skin
structure

18. The skin's proteins:
1. Collagen:
It's the most abundant protein in the skin, making up 75 % of skin.
It's responsible for warding off wrinkles and fine lines.
2. Elastin:
This protein is found with collagen in the dermis.
It's another protein, responsible for giving structure to skin and
organs.

19. 5.Collagen

20. A-What is Collagen?
 It is a protein but a very special one.
Collagen is vital for the skin. It forms up to 30% of entire human protein
and 70% of skin’s protein.
The quaternary structure of collagen consists of three left-handed helices
twisted into a right-handed coil. The most desirable property of these collagen
super helixes is their sequence of three repeating amino acids .

21. Main functions of collagen are:
1. To give solidness to skin.
2. Give resistance and coherence to connective tissues.
3. Support coherence between cells.
4. Induce division and differentiation of cells (during the growth of an
organism or wound healing).
Collagen is known to be reduced by aging and by exposure to
ultraviolet rays, and this is closely related to the formation of wrinkles
on the skin.

22. B-Types of collagen occurring in the human organism.
About 20 types of collagen are present in living organisms. The most important ones are listed
below, together with where they occur.
Collagen I. ,ligaments, bone, cornea, teeth, fibrous cartilage, womb and the inter - vertebral disc.
Collagen II. Cartilage, vitreous cells and intervertebral disc.
Collagen III. Womb, skin, intestines, heart membranes, jaws.
Collagen IV. Membranes.
Collagen V. Cornea, bone, cartilage.
Collagen VI. Stomach membrane, skin and cartilage.
Collagen VII. Skin, lungs, cornea.
Collagen VIII. Unknown, produced in body cells.
Collagen IX. Cartilage.
Collagen X. Produces chondrocytes during ossification.
Collagen XI. Cartilage, intervertebral cartilage and bone enamel.
Collagen XII. Ligaments, tendons and tooth enamel.

23. C-Natural collagen benefits
1. Nerves and vessels
2. Bones
Collagen with calcium and phosphorus salts type I collagen constitutes the bone
building material.
It forms 95% of bone matrix.
3. Organ of sight
Hydrated collagen can be found in lenses. Together with polysaccharides it forms
the optic disc. Natural Collagen enhances visual acuity when applied on eye-lids.
4. Hair
Collagen constitutes the supporting material of hair follicles. Collagen pigment is
identical with hair pigment. Natural Collagen restore beauty to the hair - gray hair
gets darker, brows and eye lashes start growing again.

24. D-Sources of Collagen.
• Soy products such as soymilk and cheese
• Dark green vegetables
• Red fruits and vegetables such as red peppers, beets , and tomatoes
• Fish such as salmon and tuna.
• Nuts such as cashews, pecans, almonds and Brazil nuts.
• Foods that are rich in sulfur content are also important to collagen
production. Among these are green and black olives, fresh cucumbers.
Working in conjunction with the sulfur, vegetables that are rich in Vitamin A
also aid in keeping collagen levels high
Fortunately, there are a number of foods that help to support the creation of collagen within
our bodies. Here are a few examples of the many different foods that provide the building
blocks for the collagen production.

25. Formation of Collagen can be stimulated from some plants such as:
1) GOTU - KOLA (Centella Asiatica, Fo-Ti-Tieng)
Gotu Kola is a creeping vine found growing in tropical and
subtropical climates.
It stimulates the formation of hyaluronic acid. Proven to work in
synergy with collagen.

26. 2) NONI (Morinda Citrifolia)
The extract of this Polynesian plant forms the base of many successful
cosmetics.
It is used as a topical treatment for wound healing stimulating collagen
formation.

27. 3) CUCUMBER
Cucumber is a vital source of proteolytic enzymes, vitamin B1and C
and they all possess great healing power regarding facial treatments
like formation or detoxification of skin.
It stimulates collagen formation.

28. Conventionally, products obtained by mixing collagen with a composition
for external application to skin, such as cosmetics are brought into the market
to take advantage of the skin moisturizing effect and wound healing effect of
collagen.
However, since the collagen has large molecules, it cannot be absorbed
percutaneously just by being applied to the skin.
Collagen loses its therapeutic properties at high temperatures because heat
loosens the triple helix structure of the protein.
This causes the amino acids in collagen to denature and break down.
E-Application in cosmetics:

29. Most commercial Active collagen preparations are manufactured at high
temperatures and distributed at room temperature, leading the triple helical
protein to unravel thus loses its therapeutic effect .
Collagen preparations of this nature are called “hydrolyzed collagen” or “gelatin”.
Gelatin products advertised as collagen in many cosmetic creams and lotions are
just simple proteins which may hydrate the skin.
Inactive collagen has been found to inhibit the function of surrounding cells when
applied to the skin.
In contact with this material, the skin cells’ ability to compound collagen is
decreased.
This can lead to deeper wrinkles and decreased skin elasticity.

30. For the first time in history it was possible to extract biologically active
collagen in the 1990’s as a result of experiments made by Polish chemists in
the University of Gdansk.
Freshwater fish skin extract possesses a three dimensional structure of triple
helix which remains bioactive up to the temperature of 27 degrees Celsius.
Natural Collagen, if used systematically, is able to stimulate the fibroblasts
– cells responsible for new collagen synthesis.
The scientific discovery

31. G - Advanced Dermal Technology
Telopeptides are the major cause of immune reactions to proteins, because they
are unique to each individual.
In atelocollagen, the telopeptides are removed from collagen molecule, creating a
far more viable, non-immunogenic form of the protein. Furthermore, atelocollagen
is much higher in density than general collagen; so, it is easily absorbed into the
skin.

32. Negatively Ionized
Collagen
Collagen is typically dissolved in an acid solution of less than pH 4.0.
This creates many restrictions for collagen used as a cosmetic material, which
require slow acidity (pH 5.5 – pH 6.5).
Researchers enhanced the hydrophilic properties through succinylation,
deriving a negative ionization of the molecule.
Negatively ionized collagen creates an electrostatic interaction with the skin.
In this way, absorbed negatively ionized collagen penetrates deep into the
dermal and basal tissue, increasing proliferation of the body’s own collagen,
and helping to activate dermal cell regeneration.
Low Solubility | High Solubility