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WOVEN FABRICS - Review

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Decorative Effects
 Plain Weave Examples:
 Warp and/or Filling direction stripes
 Stripes
 gingham
 plaids
 Twill Weave Examples:
 Houndstooth
 Herringbone
 Plaids

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Unbalanced Plain Weave (RIB)
with Warp Stripes (Yarn Dyed)

Twill with warp & weft stripes
 NOTE the skew
that causes the
fabric to be off
grain.
 The skew make
the plaid’s
horizontal
stripes not at a
right angle to
the vertical
stripes.

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Fancy /
Complex
Weaves
Interlacing pattern is controlled by:
warp yarns’ position during weaving

+ Production of Fancy Weaves
Complex
Cost
Specialized
Techniques

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Fancy/Complex Weave
main categories:
 Figure, or novelty weaves
 Surface figure weaves
 Pile weaves
 Double cloth
 Leno weave
 Crepe weave
 Slack-tension weave

+ Figureor
Novelty Weaves
 Variationor combination of
basic weaves - plain,
satin, and twill.
 Simple designs
 Complicated designs
 Damask, Brocade,
Brocatelle, Jacquard
Tapestry, & Wilton Rugs

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Figure Weaves: Jacquard
 Large-figured
designs that require
more than 25
different
arrangements of the
warp yarns to
complete one
repeat design are
jacquard weaves.

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Figure Weaves – Jacquard
 Figure weaves with large repeats or non-
repeating designs with curves.
 Each yarn is controlled independently to create
intricate designs.

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Figure Weaves – Jacquard

+ Figure Weaves: Damask
green warp and beige filling
Satin floats on a satin background
The floats in the design are opposite those in the ground

Figure Weaves: Damask
filament warp and spun filling

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Figure Weaves: Damask
Striped warp and solid filling Same color warp and filling

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Figure Weaves:
Brocade
 Extra warp or filling yarns provide
pattern on a solid color
background
 Has satin or still floats on a
plain, ribbed, twill, or satin
background
 How Brocade varies from
Damask:
 Floats in the design are more
varied in length
 Often of several colors

Figure Weaves: Brocade

Figure Weaves: Brocatelle
Similar to Brocade fabrics
EXCEPT they have a raised
pattern
Frequently made from filament
yarns
Uses a warp-faced pattern and
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filling-faced ground
Coarse cotton stuffer yarns help
maintain the 3D appearance

Figure Weaves: Brocatelle

+Figure Weaves: Jacquard Tapestry
 Originally,
hand-woven
with discontinuous filling
yarns.
 Commissioned to
celebrate military
success, then religious
images, then pastoral
scenes
 Wall hangings for warmth
 VERY time consuming to
weave

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Figure Weaves: Jacquard Tapestry
 Today’s
jacquard tapestry is
mass produced for upholstery
and handbags
2 or more sets of warp and two
or more sets of filling yarns
interlaced so that:
 the face warp is never
woven into the
 the back filling does
not show on the face.

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Figure Weaves:
Jacquard Wilton Rugs
 Figured-pile fabrics
made on a jacquard
loom.
 Once considered
imitations of Oriental
rugs
 VERY expensive to
weave!
 Now create similar
figures through printing
techniques

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Figure Weaves:
Jacquard Wilton Rugs

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Figure Weaves -Piqué
 “Pique” come from the French word
meaning “quilted.”
 Because of the raised effect in these
fabrics is similar to that in quilts.
 The Pique weave produces a fabric with
ridges, called wales or cords, that are
held up by floats on the back side of the
fabric.
 “Stuffer Yarns” are laid under the ridges in
better quality pique fabrics to emphasize
the roundness. (High Quality Indicator)
(Christian Dior Couture Fall 2009)

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Tapestry Weave
Not the same as
jacquard tapestry
Usually
identified with
hand-woven textiles
Jacquard tapestry
“imitates” many hand-
woven textiles

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Tapestry
• Hand produced,
filling faced, plain-
weave fabric
• Discontinuous filling
yarns are arranged
so that as the color
in the weave
changes, a pattern
is created

+ Figure Weaves -Piqué
Reverse showing stuffer yarns
Face

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–

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–

+ Figure Weaves – Crisscross pattern

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Surface Figure Weave – Dobby
 Usually an Eight (8) harness loom
 Madras, Madras Gingham or
Shirting Madras
 Waffle cloth
 Huck
 Clipped-dot or clipped spot

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Surface Figure Weave: Dobby
Hole-punch Loom System
CAD system

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Surface Figure Weave: Dobby

+ Extra Warp Yarns
Surface Figure or Front
Extra Yarn Weaves
 Named by the extra yarns
that form the design
 may be in the warp or filling yarn
direction
 Small repeating designs Back
 Ifextra yarns are
removed, ground fabric will
remain
 Extra yarns float across the
reverse side of the fabric

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Surface Figure Weaves –
Unclipped Spot Extra filling yarns
form the design
 Madras gingham with
extra warp yarns used to
form the flowers
Front
Back

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Surface Figure Weaves –
Unclipped Spot
The floating yarns
between the motifs
are not cut.

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Surface Figure Weaves –
Unclipped Spot

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Surface Figure Weaves –
Clipped Spot

+Surface Figure Weaves: Clipped
Spot – Dotted Swiss

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Surface Figure Weaves:
Clipped Spot - Eyelash

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Swivel Weave

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Pile Weaves
 3-dimensional structures
 Weaving an extra set of warp or filling yarns
into the ground yarns
 Makes loops or cut ends on the surface
 Woven cut pile example:

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Warp- and Weft-Pile Fabrics
 Warp pile: extra set of warp yarns form the pile
 Filling/weft pile: extra set of filling yarns form the pile

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PILE FABRIC
 Warp pile fabrics.
 Double Cloth Method:
Velvet
 Over-the-wire Method:
 Terry cloth
 Friezé
 Weft or Filling Pile
 Velveteen
 Corduroy
 Used in:
 Outerwear
 Lining of coats, gloves, and boots
 Carpets, upholstery, bedspreads
 Absorbent towels and washcloths
 Stuffed Toys

Warp Pile - Velvet –
Double Cloth Method

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Warp Pile – Velvet


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Warp Pile – Velvet

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Warp Pile – Velvet

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Warp Pile - Panne Velvet

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Warp Pile - Devore Velvet

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Warp Pile:
Over-the-Wire

+ Warp Pile -Over-the-wire:
Loops are very regular and in rows

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Warp Pile - Over-the-wire:
Terry Cloth
 Uncut pile fabrics manufactured with
an extra set of warp yarns to create
the loop by slack-tension method.
 Terry toweling quality, cost, and
durability depend on weave type (plain
or twill), count of base cloth, and loop
characteristics.
 Terry cloth has pile on both sides of
the fabric. Some fabrics have pile on
the face side only.
 In velour (e.g., towels, robes), the
loops are sheared on one or both sides
to enhance appearance and softness.

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Warp Pile -Over-the-wire:
Terry Cloth

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Warp Pile -Over-the-wire:
Terry Cloth

+ Filling Pile Fabrics
 The pile in Filling-pile fabrics is made by long filling floats on
the surface that are cut after weaving
 Filling Pile Fabrics Examples
 Corduroy
 Velveteen

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Filling Pile Weave - Corduroy
 Theextra set of filling yarns forms floats (similar to
velveteen).
 The floats are cut to create the pile in parallel lines along
the length of the fabric.

Filling Pile Weave: Corduroy

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Filling Pile Weaves - Corduroy
 Ridges or cords, known as
wales, along the length of the
fabric
Described by:
Number of wales per inch,
e.g. 8 wale,10 wale,16 wale.
The higher the number of
wales, the finer the fabric.
Width of the wales.e.g,wide
wale,pinwale, and
featherwale.

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Filling Pile Weaves - Corduroy

Filling Pile Weave: Velveteen
Filling Yarns

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Filling Pile Weaves - Velveteen
Velveteen fabrics are woven with an
extra set of spun yarns.

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Filling Pile Weave – Cotton Velveteen

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Filling Pile Weave - Velveteen

+ Warp Pile-like
(faux pile) Surfaces by Other Methods
Tufted
Flocked
surfaces

Tufting

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Flocking
 Short fibers attached
to the surface of a
fabric with adhesive
 Placement of fibers
 Mechanical operation
 Electrostatic operation

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Flocking application methods
Mechanical Electrostatic
Mechanical Application

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Surface Figure Weaves: Extra Yarn
Lappet
Swivel
Leno

+Surface Figure Weaves:
Leno Weave
Extra Yarn - Leno
 Looking at Leno:
 Yarns are crossed and that
one yarn of the pair is always
above the other. Together
they wrap the perpendicular
yarn.
 Fabric names:
Marquisette
- Mosquito netting
 Casement fabrics used for
window treatments

+Surface Figure Weave:
Extra Yarn Weaves - Leno

+Surface Figure Weave:
Leno Weave
Extra Yarn Weaves - Leno

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Surface Figure Weave:
Extra Yarn Weaves - Leno Marquisette

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Momie or Crepe Weave
 Gives a pebble-like surface that looks like a
true crepe
 Presents no “wale” or other distinct weave
effect but gives the cloth the appearance of
being sprinkled with small spots (pebbles)

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Momie or Crepe Weave
 Random interlacing of warp and filling
yarns that results in an irregular surface.
 Produced using a dobby attachment.
 The pebbly surface of the fabric is due to
distortion of the weave by the over-
twisted crepe yarns that shift once
tension during weaving is released.
 True crepe is produced with crepe yarns
(very high twist) in the warp and/or filling
direction of plain or satin weave fabrics.
 Crepe weave is used instead of true
crepe to reduce cost.

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Momie or Crepe Weaves
 Granite Weave
 Crepe Weave (any fiber can be used to
make a crepe weave)
 Sand Crepe – medium-heavy weight
fabric; repeat pattern of 16:16; no float is
greater than 2 yarns in length
 Granite Cloth – momie weave based on a
satin weave; even-sided fabric; no long
floats, no twill effect
 Moss Crepe – combines high twist crepe
yarns and crepe weave
 Bark Cloth – heavyweight momie-weave;
found in furnishings; rough texture – tree
bark

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Fancy Weave Warp Pile:
Double Cloth

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Double Cloth
 Made from 3 or more
sets of yarns.
 The two sides of double-
cloth fabrics usually look
different because of the
fabrication method.
 Tends to be heavier and
have more body than
single cloths

+ Examples of Each Double Cloth
 Double-faced double cloth (3 sets of yarns)
 satin ribbons with satin on both sides
 blankets or blanket fabric with sides that are different colors
 silence cloth
 Double weave double cloth (4 sets of yarns)
 pocket cloth
 matelassé
 Double cloth double
cloth (5 sets of yarns)
 melton
 kersey
 velvet

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Double Cloth: Pocket Cloth

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Double Weave Double Cloth:
Matlasse

+ Double Weave Double Cloth:
Matelassé

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Double Faced
Double Cloth Weaves
Double faced fabric is
constructed with
three sets of yarns.
 The combination can be
either two warp sets
and one filling set, or
vice versa.
 Examples:
 Double-sided satin
ribbon,
 Double georgette

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Double-Faced Fabric

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DOUBLE WEAVE

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Double Weaves
Reverse
Face

Back
Front

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Double Weaves

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Double Weaves

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Slack-tension Weave
Sections of warp yarns have
reduced tension.
Results in bands or stripes
of slightly puckered areas.
Because the puckering is
woven into the fabric, the
pucker cannot be flattened.
 Seersucker fabrics are
relatively more expensive to
produce as the fabrics are
woven at a slower speed.

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Slack Tension: Seersucker

+ Slack Tension Weaves
 Method: Two warp beams are used.
 The yarns on one beam are held at regular tension and those on the other
beam are held at slack tension.
 As the reed beats the filling yarns into place, the slack yarns crinkle or buckle
to form a puckered stripe
 The regular-tensioned yarns form the flat stripe
(Some warp yarns have less tension to create relaxed areas that result in
ripples or loops)
 Examples of slack tension fabrics:
 Seersucker (ripple areas, usually forming warp direction stripes)
 Terry cloth (loop areas, usually forming a slightly irregular set of pile loops)

Regular tension areas
Seersucker Slack tension areas

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Narrow Fabrics
 Weaves used are the same as
previously discussed
 Examples:
 Elastics
 Velcro
 Piping
 Trims
 Ribbons
 satin weave
 rib weave (unbalanced
plain weave)
 Zipper tapes
 twill weave

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Questions ??? ??? ???