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Repurposed Textiles:


Echoes of the TM’s “Second Lives” Exhibition
The “Logic” of Repurposing
Dida tube skirt from the
Ivory Coast.
Central Asian silk ikat panel.
The More Usual Kinds of Repurposing

Textiles woven, or otherwise produced, using materials taken from
other textiles.

Textiles , sometimes only fragments of textiles, used as covering of
various sorts.

Textile fragments assembled to resemble other formats.

A textile made by cutting down a larger textile from another format.

Resizing. Cutting down or supplementing an item of clothing so that if
fits a different person. (Perhaps a marginal case, since the basic
purpose is unchanged.)
19th century rag rug
Amish rag rug
Japanese rag rug bedcover
Warp-faced Rag Rug
Moroccan Rag Rug
         “Boucherouite,”
(i.e., from scraps of material)
Boucherouites are woven in pile,
using symmetric knots.
19th Century Hooked Rug
Older, “Poor Man’s”
   Hooked Rug
Single colors needed for background and borders
“Marrying the Coats”
Floral Design
Geometric Design
Landscape design
“Animal-tree,” Design
“Carpet bag”
of hooked rug
    fabric
Grenfell” hooked rugs are among
the finer sort and were made from
cut up women’s silk stockings and
other underclothing.
Hooked Rug with a, Possibly, Unique Design
Navajo Blanket
1870
Partly, from
raveled materials.
“Boro,” a Japanese
urge toward economy




“Boro,” is a Japanese word the
literal meaning of which is “tattered
rags.” But the term “boro” is
also used to describe patched
and repaired bedding, clothing and
some utilitarian bags
Made by sewing together pieces of
textiles, originally, part of something
else.

When the pieced items become
worn, the patches are patched.
Boro
Futon
Cover
Boro Coat
  (front)
Boro
 Coat
(back)
Rice Bag
in boro
White
Boro
Coat
“Zokins,”
traditional,
Japanese,
multi-layered,
cleaning
cloths.
“Naganjubans:”
patchwork garments
from last year’s kimono
pattern bolts.
Textiles used as coverings of various sorts.
Pillow covers.

Excluding those,
like yastiks, etc.,
that were
originally made
for that purpose.
“Cathedral
windows”
quilt
pattern.
1980,
            Pinner and Franses,
            “Turkoman Studies I”

               I. G. Lownds
“The Turkoman Carpet as a Furnishing Fabric.”
Covered with 16th century carpet materials




Covered with a Lotto rug   Covered with a “Holbein” rug
Flemish tapestry,
17th century
Renaissance
revival chair
frame
Lownds: Illustration of a room in which Turkmen weavings
        have been used for furnishing purposes.
Settee, covered with material from a Tekke main carpet;
          pillows made from Tekke bag faces.
Chair upholstered with an Indian, Robari wedding shawl
material. Embroidered shawl before application on right.
Chair
covered
with Uzbek
suzani
embroidery
Chairs,
upholstered
with Japanese
“boro”
materials.
Chair,
upholstered with
a Bangladesh
textile called
“kantha.”

Pieced, very
much like
Japanese “boro.”
Favorite
reading chair,
upholstered
with
materials
taken from a
Caucasian
rug fragment.
Tekke main carpet table runner.
Our next category in our
“kinds of repurposing”
outline is:

Textile fragments
assembled to resemble
other formats.

The most impressive
example we have
encountered is this
Czar’s throne coverlet,
composed of pieces of
two different Persian
embroideries. It came
into the Russian Czar’s
possession in 1582, but
is much older.
(from Daniel Walker article in Hali, 161)
Greek embroideries have also, famously, been assembled to convert
“fragments” into saleable formats, like this piece, a little over 2 feet square.
A little closer look
Another similar one.

Again, put together from
smaller pieces.
Harold’s large
“composed”
example, with a
niche design.
A complete khojin set, entirely constructed, probably to deceive.

                     Front and back views.
A closer look. Here is the front rotated 90 degrees.
Back, also turned.
Ten fragments have been put together to create a “complete” khojin set that
might fool someone.
Constructed bag, but not with deceptive intent.

  A Yomut tent band front and a jajim back.

               Here is its front.
Jajim back.
Composed Coptic textile

5th to 7th century.

Composed of pieces of
decoration taken from Coptic
garments.
Kind of Coptic tunic
on which these
pieces occurred.
Arrays of decorative
bands on Coptic
textiles.
Central medallion, with four outlying ones.
Main border with birds.
I like it because it looks
like a “little rug.”

“Rules” about
constructed pieces be
damned.
A textile format made by cutting down a textile of a different format.

Salt bag a likely format candidate for “construction.”
The “continuous” fabric indicator that I mentioned in relation to cut down salt
bags, is not infallible. There are bags made originally by folding over and
sewing a single piece of material. Sometimes this single piece is woven at the
size of the bag and sometimes the bag is, in fact, cut out of a large piece of
woven material, but still made originally as a bag.

The bag (the guesses have been Luri or Char Mahal) below is of the first sort:
made to this bag size, then, simply folded over and sewn up both sides.
Not “constructed,” but seems like it is.
Bag was
cut from a
weaving as
wide as
this apron.
Cut from a larger piece, but still not “constructed” in the way we are talking
about that here.

Here it is with a similar bag from Boralevi’s collection
Boralevi’s apron “wall”
Old Tekke chuval, repurposed twice
Our fifth and last category is sometimes more than an instance of cutting down,
but it can also be the occasion for enlarging.

We’ve called it “resizing.”
A boy’s great coat, estimated to have been made in the 1930s

                     Note boteh lining
Cut down from its
original size to be worn
by a smaller child.
Shoulder patch from the uniform of a U.S. Seabee in WWII.
Quilted
shoulder
patches onto a
red backing in
a gul-like
arrangement.
Last word on
the varieties of
repurposing of
textiles has
likely not yet
been spoken.

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Repurposed textiles2