Prepared By : Mazadul Hasan sheshir
ID: 2010000400008
13th Batch (session 2009-2013)
Department : Wet Processing Technology
Email: mazadulhasan@yahoo.com
Blog : www. Textilelab.blogspot.com (visit)
Southeast University
Department Of Textile Engineering
I/A 251,252 Tejgaon Dhaka Bangladesh
Prepared By :

INTRODUCTION
Knitted fabrics are the preferred structures in athletic wear in which demand for comfort is a key
requirement. Fabric properties are an important matter to produced athletic fabrics.
In this study, an experimental work is presented to determine the effects of stitch length on plain
single jersey cotton fabric with lycra and without lycra. The experimental work is going through
various tests, test results, graphical representation and remarks on the test. Dimensional
properties, pilling resistance, spirality, fabric thickness, and some color fastness test are
analyzed to get information about the effect of stitch length on plain single jersey fabric.
From the analyses of variance, it is seen that the effects of stitch length on the dimension and
properties of the Plain single fabrics inspected are highly significant.

SAMPLE FABRIC PRODUCTION
Fabric Type : Plain Single Jersey (Lycra & without Lycra)
Yarn Type : Cotton (combed)
Yarn Count : 26 Ne, 70D
Stitch Length : 2.76mm, 2.97mm, 3.15mm
Machine Parameters
Brand name of m/c : Jiunn long (Taiwan)
Machine Diameter : 26 inch
No of Feeder : 78
Needle Gauge : 24
No of Needle : 1968T
Machine speed : 26 rpm

DIFFERENT TESTS & CALCULATION
Tests on Grey Sample Fabric
 Spirality Test.
 Pilling Test.
 GSM Calculation.
 CPI, WPI & Fabric Width Calculation.
 Dimensional Stability Test.
 Fabric Thickness Test.
Tests on Dyed Sample Fabric
 Color fastness to Rubbing
 Color Fastness to Wash
 Color Fastness to Perspiration

SPIRALITY
Spirality can be defined as a fabric condition resulting when the knitted wales and courses are
angularly displaced from that ideal perpendicular angle.
In other words, Spirality" arises from twist stress in the constituent’s yarns of plain
fabric, causing all loops to distort and throwing the fabric wales and courses into an angular
relationship other than 90 degree.

IMPACT OF FABRIC STITCH LENGTH ON
SPIRALITY
Plain S/J Fabric without Lycra
Stitch
Length(mm)
No. of
Feeders
Spirality %
2.76 78 6.15
2.97 78 8.10
3.15 78 9.5 6.15%
8.10%
9.50%
0.00%
1.00%
2.00%
3.00%
4.00%
5.00%
6.00%
7.00%
8.00%
9.00%
10.00%
2.76 2.97 3.15
spirality%
Stitch Length

Plain S/J Fabric with Lycra
Stitch
Length(mm)
No. of
Feeders
Spirality %
2.76 78 2.15
2.97 78 3.10
3.15 78 3.50
2.15%
3.10%
3.50%
0.00%
0.50%
1.00%
1.50%
2.00%
2.50%
3.00%
3.50%
4.00%
2.76 2.97 3.15
spirality%
Stitch Length

PILING
Pilling is a surface defect of textiles caused by wear, and is considered unsightly. It happens
when washing and wearing of fabrics causes loose fibres to begin to push out from the surface
of the cloth, and, over time, abrasion causes the fibres to develop into small spherical
bundles, anchored to the surface of the fabric by protruding fibres that haven't broken.
Fig: Pilling of Fabric

IMPACT OF FABRIC STITCH LENGTH ON PILLING
Plain S/J Fabric without Lycra
Stitch Length(mm) Pilling Scale
Grade (out of 5)
2.76 4/5
2.97 3
3.15 2/3
4.5
3
2.5
0
0.5
1
1.5
2
2.5
3
3.5
4
4.5
5
2.76 2.97 3.15
PillingScaleGrade
Stitch Length
Graph:Graphicalrelationshipsbetweenstitchlengthandpilling(lengthwise)

Stitch
Length(mm)
Pilling Scale
Grade (out of 5)
2.76 4
2.97 3
3.15 3
Table: Impact of stitch length on pilling (Widthwise)
4
2.5
3
0
0.5
1
1.5
2
2.5
3
3.5
4
4.5
2.76 2.97 3.15
PillingScaleGrade
Stitch Length
Graph: Graphical relationships between stitch length and pilling (widthwise)

Plain S/J Fabric with Lycra
Stitch Length
(mm)
Pilling Scale
Grade (out of 5)
2.76 4
2.97 4
3.15 4
Table: Impact of stitch length on pilling (lengthwise)
4 4 4
0
0.5
1
1.5
2
2.5
3
3.5
4
4.5
2.76 2.97 3.15
PillingScaleGrade
Stitch Length
Graph: Graphical relationships between stitch length and pilling (lengthwise)

Stitch Length (mm) Pilling Scale Grade
(out of 5)
2.76 4
2.97 4
3.15 4
Table: Impact of stitch length on pilling (Widthwise)
4 4 4
0
0.5
1
1.5
2
2.5
3
3.5
4
4.5
2.76 2.97 3.15PillingScaleGrade
Stitch Length
Graph: Graphical relationships between stitch length and pilling (Widthwise)

GSM
The GSM of fabric is one kind of specification of fabric which is very important for a textile
engineer for understanding and production of fabric. ‘GSM’ means ‘Gram per square meter’
that is the weight of fabric in gram per one square meter. By this we can compare the fabrics
in unit area which is heavier and which is lighter.
There are two formulas for calculating the GSM of a knitted fabric
Course per inch X Stitch length X 39.37 X 39.37 X Tex
GSM = ----------------------------------------------------------------------
1000 X 1000
And
WPI X CPI X SL (mm)
GSM = ----------------------------- X 0.9155
Count (Ne)

IMPACT OF FABRIC STITCH LENGTH ON FABRIC
GSM
Plain S/J Fabric without Lycra & with Lycra
Plain
S/J
Fabric
without
Lycra
Stitch
Length
(mm)
GSM
Plain
S/J
Fabric
with
Lycra
Stitch
Length
(mm)
GSM
2.76 152 2.76 240
2.97 141 2.97 234
3.15 127 3.15 220
152
141
127
240
234
220
0
50
100
150
200
250
300
2.76 2.97 3.15
GSM
Stitch Length
Without lycra
With Lycra

COURSES PER INCH
Courses per inch mean how many numbers of courses are present in one inch. It is also very
important for calculation of knitted fabric GSM.
WALES PER INCH
Wales per inch means how many numbers of wales are present in one inch, it is very
important for calculation of knitted fabric GSM and fabric properties.
Calculation of Fabric Width
We calculated the fabric width by using following formula –
Total no of Wales/Total no of needle
Fabric Width (open width) = ---------------------------------------------
WPI

IMPACT OF FABRIC STITCH LENGTH ON
CPI, WPI & FABRIC WIDTH
Stitch
Length
(mm)
CPI WPI Fabric
Width
(Inch
2.76 54 29 67.9
2.97 48 28 70.3
3.15 44 26 75.7
54
48
44
29 28
26
67.9
70.3
75.7
0
10
20
30
40
50
60
70
80
2.76 2.97 3.15
CPI,WPI&F.W
Stitch Length
CPI
WPI
F.W
Plain S/J Fabric without Lycra

Plain S/J Fabric with Lycra
Stitch
Length
(mm)
CPI WPI Fabric
Width
(Inch)
2.76 67 37 53.2
2.97 64 35 56.2
3.15 60 33 59.6
67
64
60
37
35 33
53.2 56.2
59.6
0
10
20
30
40
50
60
70
80
2.76 2.97 3.15
CPI,WPI&F.W
Stitch Length
CPI
WPI
F.W

DIMENSIONAL STABILITY
This is a test method for measuring the changes in fabric dimension when subjected to
changing humidity conditions. The dimensional stability relating properties, namely
relaxation shrinkage and hygral expansion, are measured. Relaxation shrinkage is defined as
the percentage change in dry dimensions of fabric measured after 30-minute relaxation in
water at room temperature. Hygral expansion is defined as the percentage change in
dimensions of relaxed fabric from wet condition to dry condition.

IMPACT OF FABRIC STITCH LENGTH ON FABRIC
DIMENSIONAL STABILITY
Stitch
Length
(mm)
Lengthwise
Shrinkage
(%)
Widthwise
Shrinkage
(%)
2.76 5 20
2.97 6 18
3.15 5 11.5
Plain S/J Fabric without Lycra
5%
6%
5%
20%
18%
11.50%
0%
5%
10%
15%
20%
25%
2.76 2.97 3.15
ShrinkagePercentage
Stitch Length
L.W.S
W.W.S

Plain S/J Fabric with Lycra
Stitch
Length
(mm)
Lengthwise
Shrinkage
(%)
Widthwise
Shrinkage
(%)
2.76 14 11
2.97 16 13
3.15 6 18
14%
16%
6%
11%
13%
18%
0%
2%
4%
6%
8%
10%
12%
14%
16%
18%
20%
2.76 2.97 3.15
ShrinkagePercentage
Stitch Length
L.W.S
W.W.S

FABRIC THICKNESS
Fabric thickness is defined as perpendicular distance through the fabric, which determines the
dimension between the upper and lower side of the fabric
Fig: Fabric Thickness Tester

IMPACT OF FABRIC STITCH LENGTH ON FABRIC
THICKNESS
Plain S/J Fabric without Lycra
Stitch Length
(mm)
Fabric Thickness
(mm)
2.76 0.5
2.97 0.47
3.15 0.38
0.5
0.47
0.38
0
0.1
0.2
0.3
0.4
0.5
0.6
2.76 2.97 3.15
FabricThickness(mm)
Stitch Length

Plain S/J Fabric with Lycra
Stitch Length (mm) Fabric Thickness
(mm)
2.76 0.70
2.97 0.57
3.15 0.52
0.7
0.57
0.52
0
0.1
0.2
0.3
0.4
0.5
0.6
0.7
0.8
2.76 2.97 3.15
FabricThickness(mm)
Stitch Length (mm)

IMPACT OF FABRIC STITCH LENGTH ON COLOR
FASTNESS TO RUBBING
Stitch
Length
(mm)
Grey Scale
Grade( Dry)
Grey Scale
Grade( Wet)
2.76 4/5 3
2.97 4/5 2/3
3.15 4/5 2/3
Plain S/J Fabric without Lycra
4.5 4.5 4.5
3
2.5 2.5
0
0.5
1
1.5
2
2.5
3
3.5
4
4.5
5
2.76 2.97 3.15
GreyScaleGrade
Stitch Length
Dry
Wet

Plain S/J Fabric with Lycra
Stitch Length
(mm)
Grey Scale
Grade( Dry)
Grey Scale
Grade( Wet)
2.76 4/5 2
2.97 4/5 2/3
3.15 4/5 1/2
4.5 4.5 4.5
2
2.5
1.5
0
0.5
1
1.5
2
2.5
3
3.5
4
4.5
5
2.76 2.97 3.15
GreyScaleGrade
Stitch Length
Dry
Wet

IMPACT OF FABRIC STITCH LENGTH ON COLOR THE
FASTNESS TO WASH
Plain S/J Fabric without Lycra
Stitch Length (mm) Grey Scale Grade
2.76 4/5
2.97 4/5
3.15 4/5
4.5 4.5 4.5
0
0.5
1
1.5
2
2.5
3
3.5
4
4.5
5
2.76 2.97 3.15
GreyScaleGrade
Stitch Length

Plain S/J Fabric with Lycra
Stitch Length (mm) Grey Scale Grade
2.76 4/5
2.97 4/5
3.15 4/5
4.5 4.5 4.5
0
0.5
1
1.5
2
2.5
3
3.5
4
4.5
5
2.76 2.97 3.15
GreyScaleGrade
Stitch Length

IMPACT OF FABRIC STITCH LENGTH ON COLOR
THE FASTNESS TO PERSPIRATION
Plain S/J Fabric without Lycra
Stitch Length
(mm)
Grey Scale
Grade
(Alkaline)
Grey Scale
Grade (Acid)
2.76 2/3 3/4
2.97 3/4 4
3.15 2 3/4
2.5
3.5
2
3.5
4
3.5
0
0.5
1
1.5
2
2.5
3
3.5
4
4.5
2.76 2.97 3.15
GreyScaleGrade
Stitch Length
Alkaline
Acid

Plain S/J Fabric with Lycra
Stitch
Length
(mm)
Grey Scale
Grade
(Alkaline)
Grey Scale
Grade
(Acid)
2.76 3/4 3/4
2.97 2 2
3.15 2/3 3/4
3.5
2
2.5
3.5
2
3.5
0
0.5
1
1.5
2
2.5
3
3.5
4
2.76 2.97 3.15
GreyScaleGrade
Stitch Length
Alkaline
Acid

CONCLUSION
The contributions and incessant efforts of all the group members to complete the project
report are highly appreciative. The challenging environment in 21st century demands that
textile education should be meaningful and responsive to develop a mechanism to produce
dynamic and technically competitive human resource in order to meet the challenges of the
global world. Right and effective strategies needs to be adopted for affecting quality
improvements in textile education thereby making it relevant and useful not only for the
sustained growth and development of the textile institutes but also in serving the societies in a
progressive way.

1. Yarn Manufacturing Technology
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3. Garments Manufacturing Technology
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3. Wet processing Technology
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