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Pallava Mallai,[object Object],Unfinished poetry in stone -  4 Structural Temples,[object Object],S. Swaminathan,[object Object],(sswami99@gmail.com),[object Object]
Structural Temples ,[object Object],Earliest structural temples,[object Object],using stones are first seen here.,[object Object],Two temples,called the Shore,[object Object],Temples,are on the sea shore.,[object Object],Olakkaneswara Temple ,[object Object],is on the top of the main hill.,[object Object],Mukundanayanar Temple is,[object Object],on the boundaryof the town.,[object Object],The very choice of locations ,[object Object],betrays the fanciful minds ,[object Object],of the Pallavas:,[object Object],the very edge of the sea, ,[object Object],the very top of a hill and ,[object Object],the terra firma,[object Object]
The material,[object Object],It looks that there has been considerable experimentation ,[object Object],on the choice of the material. ,[object Object],It was hard granite for the cave temples and monoliths, ,[object Object],blackish leptinite for the Shore Temples, ,[object Object],reddish granite for the Mukundanayanar Temple, ,[object Object],softer greyish-white granite for Olakkanesvara Temple. ,[object Object],The main reason for the erosion of the Shore Temples is ,[object Object],due to the choice of softer stone. ,[object Object]
Chronology in Mamallapuram,[object Object],The Mukundanayanar Temple dedicated to Siva ,[object Object],could  be the tentative start ,[object Object],to the structural temple phase at Mamallapuram. ,[object Object],The now more-or-less-gone Olakkanesvara Temple and ,[object Object],the pride of Mamallai, the twin temples ,[object Object],on the seashore followed. ,[object Object]
The setting of the Shore Temples is the most dramatic, ,[object Object],washed by the sea waves for centuries! ,[object Object],Its slenderness imparts a special grace to the temples. ,[object Object],Though most sculptures are badly eroded ,[object Object],the architectural proportions and make-up, ,[object Object],and the natural setting on the sea make the edifice ,[object Object],one of the finest monuments in India. ,[object Object],Shore Temples,[object Object]
There is a belief that a part of the town ,[object Object],has been swallowed by the sea. ,[object Object],But there are strong reasons to believe that ,[object Object],these temples were built on the shore, ,[object Object],at the very edge of the sea. ,[object Object],The parts of the temple which would have been ,[object Object],normally located in front of the temple ,[object Object],are at the back. ,[object Object],It is fairly certain that ,[object Object],the Reclining Vishnu image, a rock-cut one, ,[object Object],sandwiched between the two tall temples, ,[object Object],is an earlier shrine and ,[object Object],the Shore Temple was built around it. ,[object Object],An azhvar has sung the ‘God on the sea shore’.,[object Object]
But why locate a temple on the very edge of sea, ,[object Object],exposing to the vagaries of nature?,[object Object],It is not uncommon for the Pallava-s ,[object Object],to attempt uncommon enterprises! ,[object Object]
Shore Temples - a short history,[object Object],The Reclining Vishnu, of unknown origin, ,[object Object],is the nucleus for the development of this complex.,[object Object],Rajasimha built two tall stone shrines for Siva ,[object Object],to the east and to the west of this rock-cut figure,,[object Object],with a prakara wall which runs around the larger temple. ,[object Object]
The rediscovery,[object Object],This Pallava wonder, like all the Pallava monuments, ,[object Object],was lying abandoned, many covered by sand,,[object Object],how long we have no idea, ,[object Object],till the Europeans started frequenting the place, for pleasure. ,[object Object],Towards the end of the 18th century ,[object Object],one Col. Mackenzie, an extraordinary person,[object Object],dug these temples out of sand. ,[object Object],A painting of 1784,[object Object],A photo of 1890s,[object Object]
Let us first have survey of the complex. ,[object Object]
Monuments within the complex ,[object Object],All these three shrines are accommodated ,[object Object],in a spacious courtyard, ,[object Object],along with accessory mandapam-s, ,[object Object],prakaram enclosures and gopuram entrances, ,[object Object],but much of it being on the west side.,[object Object]
Monuments within the complex,[object Object],To the north of the Shore Temples ,[object Object],is a well-like deep clearance ,[object Object],in which there are three curios: ,[object Object],a varaha, miniature shrine and a cistern. ,[object Object],Similarly on the south there is ,[object Object],a shrine shaped like a lion.,[object Object]
Monuments in the environs ,[object Object],There are a few very interesting monuments ,[object Object],outside the fenced area. ,[object Object],On the south, on the sand is the basement of a shrine, ,[object Object],either incomplete or completed, ,[object Object],but now without superstructure. ,[object Object],A little beyond are a few sculpted outcrops,,[object Object],like a Mini-Tiger cave.,[object Object],On to the north is another interesting carved shrine,,[object Object],called Mahishasuramardini rock. ,[object Object]
Shore Temples, its Complex and its Environs,[object Object],Lithe, sleek and delicate shrines, these are photographers delight.,[object Object],The setting is dramatic, washed by the waves for centuries.,[object Object],The two temples dedicated to Siva. ,[object Object],The beginning of gupuram that became the hallmark of ,[object Object],the south Indian temples can be seen here.,[object Object],The prakaram once contained some beautiful sculptures ,[object Object],were eaten away by time and waves.,[object Object],Between the two shrines lies a rock-cut Reclining Vishnu, ,[object Object],most likely the earliest sculpture of Mamallai.,[object Object],While the complex houses a number of religious artefacts, ,[object Object],in the environs the Pallavas have attempted ,[object Object],to satisfy their artistic curiosity with every outcrops! ,[object Object]
The east-facing shrine is four-storied ,[object Object],has a square plan and octagonal crown.,[object Object],The finial, the stupi, adds to its elegance.,[object Object],The sanctum contains an excellent,[object Object],Somaskanda relief and a lingam ,[object Object],that was added later.,[object Object],The attending deities, Brahma, Vishnu,[object Object],and the gate-keepers are all eroded, ,[object Object],so are most of those on the prakaram.,[object Object],Shore Temples,[object Object]
Shore Temples,[object Object],The twin temples are a magnificence sight, ,[object Object],the sea and the sky for the backdrop.,[object Object],The temples are approached from the east, and ,[object Object],enter Kshatriya-simhesvara, ,[object Object],which is the name of the east-facing temple. ,[object Object]
It would have been extraordinary sight ,[object Object],during the Pallava-s to stand on the base of the temple and ,[object Object],watch the sun rising in the eastern waters. ,[object Object],The splendour is the same even today, ,[object Object],after 13 centuries, the eroded sculptures ,[object Object],adding a mystical charm: ,[object Object],a most befitting entry to the art and commerce ,[object Object],of the Tamil country in the past ,[object Object],when Mamallai was a flourishing port, ,[object Object],and, now, to the ‘poetry in stone’.,[object Object],The temples are eaten substantially by time and by the sea,,[object Object],mainly because of the choice of ,[object Object],soft variety of stone, called leptinite.,[object Object]
To the east of the temple is a flag staff made of stone, ,[object Object],which used to be in the sea, ,[object Object],before the present protective embankment ,[object Object],was erected some years ago. ,[object Object]
Kshatriya-simhesvara (East-facing temple),[object Object],This is a four-storeyed shrine with a square plan. ,[object Object],The usual sala-s and kuta-s are found only ,[object Object],on the prakara walls and in the second and third levels. ,[object Object]
On the four corners ,[object Object],on the top of the ground level ,[object Object],are squatting lions and ,[object Object],on the top level bhuta gana-s blowing conches ,[object Object],occupy these positions. ,[object Object],This arrangement we see ,[object Object],for the first time ,[object Object],and are significant, ,[object Object],for these motifs ,[object Object],came to be adapted ,[object Object],in later temples. ,[object Object],The sikhara and the stupi,[object Object],are octagonal,,[object Object],and are made basalt, ,[object Object],which is not available locally. ,[object Object]
One enters the shrine ,[object Object],through a gateway, ,[object Object],the beginning of ,[object Object],a gopuram.,[object Object],The shrine is guarded by ,[object Object],two dvara-pala-s, ,[object Object],both badly eroded. ,[object Object],On the two side walls ,[object Object],of the ardha-mandapam have ,[object Object],Vishnu with his consort ,[object Object],and ,[object Object],Brahma with Sarasvati, ,[object Object],in highly weather-beaten,[object Object],condition. ,[object Object]
Sanctum,[object Object],The sanctum has a relief sculpture of Somaskanda. ,[object Object],Four-armed Siva is shown ,[object Object],on a rectangular seat in sukhasana and ,[object Object],on his left side Parvati with two hands is ,[object Object],seated facing Siva. ,[object Object],In between, ,[object Object],Skanda as a boy is shown seated and ,[object Object],enjoying the parental affection. ,[object Object],Brahma and Vishnu are standing behind Siva. ,[object Object],It is an excellent composition. ,[object Object]
A fluted, but broken lingam, withour avudaiyar,[object Object],is also found installed in the sanctum.  ,[object Object],There are interesting references to the existence ,[object Object],of beams made of sandalwood above the deity, ,[object Object],which are now lost. ,[object Object]
Sculptured panels on the prakara,[object Object],The outer walls of the shrine, the prakara, ,[object Object],have tell-tale marks of some very interesting images. ,[object Object],On the corners are rearing lions, ,[object Object],another motif introduced and popularised by Rajasimha. ,[object Object],Besides this, we have ,[object Object],the elephant, ram, naga-s and bhuta gana-s. ,[object Object]
A figure of Durga along with her gana-sis carved ,[object Object],on the outside of the back wall of the temple. ,[object Object],Her left leg is resting on her mount, lion and ,[object Object],holds a long bow on his right hand.,[object Object],This relaxed Durga, is a masterly composition. ,[object Object],If only we had all the originals to view ,[object Object],instead of shapeless weather beaten figures…!  ,[object Object]
The northern wall of the shrine contains a few sculptural reliefs, ,[object Object],some of which are barely identifiable. ,[object Object],In the centre is a very beautiful Tripuranataka, ,[object Object],on the east a lively Mahishasuramardini and ,[object Object],on the west Narasimha. ,[object Object],A host of gana-s, in vibrant poses, are shown below. ,[object Object]
Till the time of Rajasimha, ,[object Object],Ganesa we don’t find the image in the Pallava shrines, ,[object Object],though in both the Pandya and the Chalukya temples, ,[object Object],belonging to the same period, ,[object Object],Ganesa idols are found prominently. ,[object Object],In the Shore Temples Ganesa figures start appearing, ,[object Object],which can be seen in many places. ,[object Object],Here area few. ,[object Object]
Ganesa in the Mini-shrine ,[object Object],located to the north ,[object Object],of the Shore Temples,[object Object],Ganesa on the superstructure ,[object Object],of the east-facing temple. ,[object Object]
On the outer wall of the northern prakara ,[object Object],are kept a number of loose sculpture panels, ,[object Object],and most of them are difficult to be identified. ,[object Object],There are at least a few ,[object Object],interesting and intriguing sculptures, ,[object Object],though eroded substantially, still identifiable.,[object Object],There are three panels. ,[object Object],that have motifs similar to those ,[object Object],on the Great Penance open-air bas-relief.  ,[object Object]
On the top one can see ,[object Object],the unmistakable ,[object Object],posture of the ascetic. ,[object Object],Below this on the right is the deer pair, and just to the left of the pair is the cheating monkey with a few mice. ,[object Object],What do these signify and,[object Object],how did these motifs come to be sculpted here? ,[object Object]
The inside surfaces of this wall appear ,[object Object],to have had a series of sculptured panels. ,[object Object],According scholars these illustrate ,[object Object],the history of the Pallava dynasty. ,[object Object],But all of them are now beyond recognition. ,[object Object]
The inside surfaces of this wall appear ,[object Object],to have had a series of sculptured panels. ,[object Object],According some scholars these illustrate ,[object Object],the history of the Pallava dynasty. ,[object Object],But all of them are now beyond recognition.,[object Object],This is perhaps the forerunner of ,[object Object],the well-documented series ,[object Object],carved on the prakara wall of ,[object Object],the Vaikuntha Perumal Temple, Kanchi.  ,[object Object]
Narapati-simha-Pallava-Vishnu-griha ,[object Object],(Jala-sayana Vishnu Temple),[object Object],Half way through the perambulation of the eastern temple, ,[object Object],just behind its sanctum is a shrine for Reclining Vishnu. ,[object Object],It is called Narapati-Simha-Pallava-Vishnu-Griham,,[object Object],as per an inscription.,[object Object],It is the oldest image of Mamallapuram, and  ,[object Object],is excavated in live rock, that is, the earliest monolith too! ,[object Object],Most likely this Vishnu shrine was built by an early Pallava and did not have a ceiling. ,[object Object]
Vishnu here is now called ,[object Object],Jalasayana Perumal (‘God-who-lies-by-the-water’), ,[object Object],to identify this shrine being close to water. ,[object Object],This is to differentiate it with ,[object Object],the other Anantasayana Vishnu ,[object Object],in the structural temple in the town ,[object Object],belonging to a much later period, which is known as ,[object Object],Sthalasayana perumal (‘God-who-lies-on-ground’), ,[object Object],to mean that the shrine in inland. ,[object Object],But originally this Perumal was ,[object Object],the Sthalasayana Vishnu, sthala here ,[object Object],referring to Vishnu sleeping on the floor, ,[object Object],and not on the Ananta serpent. ,[object Object]
The sanctum is rectangular to accommodate ,[object Object],a reclining figure. ,[object Object],Vishnu is reclining on bare rock, ,[object Object],with head to the south, and has two hands. ,[object Object],The sculpture is somewhat crude, by the Pallava standards. ,[object Object]
On the southern wall of this shrine is ,[object Object],the scene of Gajendra Moksham and ,[object Object],on the north side is a mural of Kaliamardana. ,[object Object],In the next one Krishna in the form of a horse ,[object Object],is seen killing an asura. ,[object Object],All these indicate that the temples ,[object Object],in this complex are filled with reliefs. ,[object Object],Even in the eroded form ,[object Object],all these show great dynamism. ,[object Object],During the Pallava times it would have been a great sight! ,[object Object]
Kshatriya-simhesvara (East-facing temple),[object Object],This temple is similar to ,[object Object],its twin neighbour, ,[object Object],but shorter and three-storeyed. ,[object Object],Four bhuta-s can be seen seated at the corners blowing conches on the two floors. ,[object Object],These positions are taken over by Nandi-s in the later ,[object Object],Siva temples.  ,[object Object],The pilasters on the walls have rearing lion bases, ,[object Object],as is characteristic of ,[object Object],the Rajasimha temples. ,[object Object]
Kshatriya-simhesvara (East-facing temple),[object Object],In the sanctum is ,[object Object],a Somaskanda panel, ,[object Object],similar to the one ,[object Object],in the other shrine, ,[object Object],but smaller and better preserved.,[object Object],There is a socket cut in the floor, but the lingam is missing. ,[object Object],In the sanctum is ,[object Object],a Somaskanda panel, ,[object Object],similar to the one ,[object Object],in the other shrine, ,[object Object],but smaller and better preserved.,[object Object],There is a socket cut in the floor, but the lingam is missing. ,[object Object],On both sides of the temple are inscriptions of Rajaraja. ,[object Object]
Main Entrance and Maha-mandapam,[object Object],In front of the west-facing shrine ,[object Object],is the maha-mandapam, an open-air mandapam.,[object Object],In fact the main entrance ,[object Object],to the shrines has been from the west. ,[object Object],This is understandable as the east-facing shrine ,[object Object],is at the very edge of the sea, ,[object Object],which would have been often unapproachable. ,[object Object]
This is a spacious hall with a prakaram. ,[object Object],Time has eaten most, except the basements. ,[object Object],Many sculptures are lost or badly eroded, ,[object Object],some of which are placed in this complex. ,[object Object]
The inner side of ,[object Object],the pakaram wall ,[object Object],contained relief sculptures ,[object Object],depicting the Pallava history, ,[object Object],the other side, ,[object Object],of warriors riding lions and ,[object Object],were placed on the walls. ,[object Object],Most of these are lost. ,[object Object],Whatever could be retrieved ,[object Object],is kept along ,[object Object],the prakaram walls. ,[object Object]
Further west lies the main entrance. ,[object Object],Two sculptures are found at the entrance.  ,[object Object],One on the southern side is an eka-pada-murti (‘one-legged-deity’): three heads, six arms carrying among other things ,[object Object],sula and snake, supported on one leg.,[object Object],On the west is the naga-raja standing ,[object Object],under the hood of a snake with many heads. ,[object Object]
In front of the entrance are three bali-pitha-s, ,[object Object],and these contain panegyric sloka-s ,[object Object],in Sanskrit praising Rajasimha.,[object Object],The entire complex shows the influence of sea ,[object Object],over a millennium. ,[object Object]
Shore Temples Complex,[object Object],On the north of the Shore Temples are,[object Object],a few, interesting, but intriguing objects:,[object Object],a mini-shrine that has a Siva with his bull,[object Object],and a Varaha, both excellent sculptures.,[object Object],On the base of the Varaha and elsewhere,[object Object],are found some important inscriptions.,[object Object],There is also a cistern with a royal,[object Object],maiden in relief.,[object Object],To the north is a lion. Its chest has a niche of,[object Object],Mahishasuramardini sitting on the Buffalo-demon.,[object Object],Two lovely women, shown on the sides, are,[object Object],guarding the shrine. ,[object Object],Durga is also associated with a lion and deer, ,[object Object],the latter, headless now, being sculpted by the side.,[object Object]
The Pallava-s keep us guessing all the time. ,[object Object],Now it is a mini-complex comprising ,[object Object],a host of very unusual, miniature monuments. ,[object Object]
Butting the twin temples is ,[object Object],a shallow stepped pit, ,[object Object],apsidal in shape. ,[object Object],This complex was unearthed ,[object Object],only recently.,[object Object],There are three curios,,[object Object],boar in the round, ,[object Object],a small cylindrical shrine and ,[object Object],a cistern,,[object Object],and an interesting inscription.,[object Object],Each of these puzzles us, ,[object Object],but fortunately one thing is clear, ,[object Object],the ‘atyantakama’ here is Rajasimha, ,[object Object],and this is inscribed here! ,[object Object]
Varaha in animal form,[object Object],The realistic boar is carved out of live rock.,[object Object],This must be Varaha trying to find the feet of Siva,,[object Object],for boar’s snout is rooting downward as in mythology,,[object Object],and whorls and lotus shown between the legs may represent ocean. ,[object Object],Its being carved in the round is also important, ,[object Object],as the Pallava-s didn’t sculpt many sculptures in the round. ,[object Object]
There are three important inscriptions ,[object Object],on the front of the pedestal, ,[object Object],which are titles of Rajasimha, in the Pllava Grantha script,,[object Object],in the characteristic Pallava calligraphic hand.,[object Object],The titles inscribed are: in the front are ,[object Object],Sri Rajasimhah (‘lion-among-kings’), ,[object Object],Sri Ranajayah (‘victorious-in-battles’) and ,[object Object],Sribharah (‘upholder-of-prosperity’), and ,[object Object],one, Sri Chitrakarmmukah (‘wonderful-archer’) ,[object Object],on the western flank. ,[object Object],That the same titles in the same order appear ,[object Object],in Mamallapuram, Kanchi Kailasanatha Temple and ,[object Object],Talagirisvara Temple in Panamalai, ,[object Object],add to their importance. ,[object Object]
Very close to the boar, ,[object Object],on the inner faces of three upper rim stone slabs ,[object Object],on the south-west side of the well,[object Object],Is another important inscription.,[object Object],The same text is repeated in a temple ,[object Object],by Rajasimha in Vayalur. ,[object Object]
There is a possibility ,[object Object],that this image ,[object Object],has suffered vandalism, ,[object Object],broken into pieces. ,[object Object],It looks these were ,[object Object],collected and assembled, ,[object Object],whose tell-tales marks ,[object Object],are visible.,[object Object],For all the self-praise and after causing ,[object Object],a number of shrines for Siva in the complex, ,[object Object],why did Rajasimha create this unique image of ,[object Object],an avatara of Vishnu in this complex? ,[object Object]
Mini-shrine,[object Object],To the north of Varaha ,[object Object],is another curio,,[object Object],an unusual mini-shrine dedicated to Siva,,[object Object],a complete temple in miniature. ,[object Object],The east facing temple, ,[object Object],is cylindrical ,[object Object],from bottom to top,,[object Object],and is made of five parts. ,[object Object]
The base is part of the mother-rock.,[object Object],A ring open on the east is the wall of the shrine,,[object Object],with four half pillars with lion-riders,,[object Object],a Rajasimha motif.,[object Object]
The sanctum houses Vinadhara Siva, ,[object Object],sitting on a bull,,[object Object],a very beautiful miniature idol.,[object Object]
The side walls are Vishnu and Brahma attending on him.,[object Object],all these miniatures are the unique Pallava contributions. ,[object Object],Time has taken the toll, and ,[object Object],all these wonderful images are badly eroded, ,[object Object]
The superstructure has all the components of a regular temple.,[object Object],Third part is a block placed like a lid, ,[object Object],with chaitya-windows,[object Object],at the bottom,,[object Object],vyala-s and gana-s alternating above, and finally,,[object Object],with a griva with gana-s.,[object Object],The fourth forms the crown, with four kudu-s.,[object Object],The last, the stupi, ,[object Object],is missing.,[object Object]
We have seen similar mini-shrines shown in relief on the roof of the Bhima, ,[object Object],the Sahadeva and the Ganesa Ratha-s. ,[object Object]
Mini-well,[object Object],To the north of the mini-shrine, ,[object Object],is a small well cut in the mother-rock. ,[object Object],It would have no significance ,[object Object],if it did not have a relief image in it. ,[object Object],It is a beautiful goddess or a royal lady,[object Object],with two female attendants.,[object Object],This composition is ,[object Object],another excellent miniature relief. ,[object Object]
Isn’t the entire complex exciting and intriguing? ,[object Object],All these fantastic pieces of spiritual art,,[object Object],seen for the first time, and the last time. ,[object Object]
Mini-Durga Temple,[object Object],A Durga Temple in miniature ,[object Object],in the Shore Temples Complex ,[object Object],is another Pallava gift.,[object Object],Durga seems to be ,[object Object],a favourite deity ,[object Object],for the Pallava-s and ,[object Object],we have her shrines and ,[object Object],her idol in numerous shrines ,[object Object],elsewhere too ,[object Object],in Mamallapuram. ,[object Object],But the composition ,[object Object],of this temple is most unusual, ,[object Object],even by the Pallava standard. ,[object Object]
Shore Temples,[object Object],Watercolour of the Shore Temple, with a palanquin and resting bearers ,[object Object],by the shore at Mamallapuram, by George Chinnery, 1802-05.,[object Object]
Shore Temples,[object Object],Watercolour of the Shore Temple at Mamallapuram, by an anonymous artist, 1784 ,[object Object]
Shore Temples,[object Object],'N W View of two ancient Temples by the Seaside. Mahabilipoorum. J. Gantz'. 1825 ,[object Object]
Shore Temples,[object Object],From James Fergusson's 'Ancient Architecture in Hindoostan'.  ,[object Object]
Shore Temples,[object Object],Watercolour of a general view of the Shore Temple and beach ,[object Object],at Mamallapuram, by Elisha Trapaud, c. 1805 ,[object Object]
Shore Temples – a photo in 1890s,[object Object]
Shore Temples environs,[object Object],To the north of the shrines is a hillock,[object Object],that has a niche for Durga. On the face ,[object Object],of the rock it is the lion which attacks,[object Object],the demon. Done in low relief this is ,[object Object],a remarkable composition.,[object Object],To the south, a number ,[object Object],of boulders have been,[object Object],sculpted as mini-Tiger,[object Object],Cave, sitting lion, running,[object Object],horse etc.,[object Object],There is no end to ,[object Object],the Pallava riddles!,[object Object]
Shore Temples environs,[object Object],There is no doubt of ,[object Object],the Pallava infatuation for Durga. ,[object Object],On most available rock the Rajasimha sculptors ,[object Object],celebrated the Devi. ,[object Object],Here on the northern side another outcrop ,[object Object],we have yet another Durga temple. ,[object Object],And it is a Pallava marvel! ,[object Object]
It is a small rock-cut ,[object Object],Mahishasuramardini temple facing the sea.,[object Object],Being nearer to the sea and left without protection ,[object Object],both nature and vandalaism, this piece of art of yore ,[object Object],would be lost to us in a very short time. ,[object Object]
The small cave shrine facing the sea ,[object Object],enshrines a relief image of eight-armed Durga. ,[object Object],The doorway is provided with lion-based pilasters, ,[object Object],and is guarded by highly eroded female-gatekeepers. ,[object Object]
The surprise is on the outside. ,[object Object],In low relied the fighting scene, a unique composition,,[object Object],we see the vahana of Durga mauling ,[object Object],the buffalo demon which is running away in agony.,[object Object],This scene is the only one of its kind;  ,[object Object],The Pallava sculptor abhorred monotony. ,[object Object]
Here is a reproduction of a painting done by ,[object Object],a European artist in early 19th century. ,[object Object],This tells you the details that we have lost. ,[object Object],And in the near future, we would lose the remaining too!,[object Object]
Shore Temples environs,[object Object],To the south, a number of boulders have been sculpted as mini-Tiger,[object Object],cave, sitting lion, running horse etc.,[object Object],There is no end to the Pallava riddles!,[object Object]
A few hundred metres south of the Shore Temples ,[object Object],along the sand are a few astonishing object d’art. ,[object Object],Among the outcrops, ,[object Object],there are three low ones close to each other. ,[object Object],These have been shaped into varieties of shrines. ,[object Object],Interestingly, all of them have models elsewhere, ,[object Object],but are not stereotypes of their models. ,[object Object]
There are three boulders which had the benefit of ,[object Object],the Pallava chisels working on them.,[object Object],On the extreme left is the mini-tiger cave. ,[object Object],which is much smaller, and not so grand ,[object Object],as the original Tiger Cave in Saluvakkuppam. ,[object Object],The boulder itself is far thinner, and ,[object Object],couldn’t accommodate any more than a few vyala-heads.,[object Object]
On the extreme right is a slightly bigger boulder, ,[object Object],which has been shaped into a mini-Durga temple ,[object Object],on the chest of a lion. ,[object Object],This has more details. ,[object Object],On the back side of this ,[object Object],is sculpted in relief,[object Object],an elephant with howdah with ,[object Object],an unidentified figure inside it,,[object Object],like in Saluvakkuppam.,[object Object],Is it a shrine? If so, ,[object Object],is it for Indra or Subrahmanya? ,[object Object]
In front of the mini-Durga shrine,,[object Object],on the smallest outcrop, ,[object Object],is a couching lion in repose. ,[object Object]
All of them are disfigured considerably ,[object Object],exposed to the natural elements for centuries. ,[object Object],One would wonder ,[object Object],whether the Pallava-s or their silpi-s ,[object Object],were ‘atyantakama-s’! ,[object Object],Aren’t these quaint? Or crazy?,[object Object]
Olakkanesvara Temple,[object Object],The Pallava fancy in action, again;,[object Object],constructing a temple on the top of a hill!,[object Object],This abode for Siva has lost its,[object Object],superstructure, and to add to the woe,,[object Object],most of the exquisite sculptures are now,[object Object],mostly eroded.,[object Object],Being the tallest point, one can have ,[object Object],a view of the sea and around.,[object Object]
Olakkanesvara Temple,[object Object],This is a very interesting structure, ,[object Object],sadly neglected and unwisely used ,[object Object],for a few centuries in the near past.,[object Object],Why was a structural temple built ,[object Object],on the top of a hill, ,[object Object],we may never know. ,[object Object],Perhaps again the Pallava desire ,[object Object],to be fanciful triumphed. ,[object Object]
Located on the hill directly above ,[object Object],the Mahishasuramardini cave, ,[object Object],is approachable by ,[object Object],a narrow flight of stairs. ,[object Object]
The Temple is without its superstructure and only a few sculptures remains to appreciate the past glory. ,[object Object],Today it looks rather severe, bereft of the Pallava charm. ,[object Object]
We don’t know how this temple was called in the Pallava time.,[object Object],In the 19th century this temple was under worship. ,[object Object],We understand that it was the practice in those days of collecting ,[object Object],	a measure of oil (Uzhakku-ennai) from the community for ,[object Object],	the permanent light of this temple. ,[object Object],Thus it came to be called Uzhakku-Ennai-Isvarar Temple. ,[object Object],Olakkaneswra is its corruption is a view. ,[object Object]
It is believed that there grew ,[object Object],a banyan tree ,[object Object],on its superstructure and ,[object Object],this was the reason for ,[object Object],its damage.,[object Object],The rape of the monument,[object Object],was not the handy work ,[object Object],of nature and ,[object Object],the apathy of the people alone. ,[object Object],The British used this for ,[object Object],a light-house ,[object Object],in the 19th century ,[object Object],till a new one, around 1900,,[object Object],was built. ,[object Object],What a shame, to use a,[object Object],cultural signpost for signaling! ,[object Object]
Believed to have been the contribution of ,[object Object],the structural-temple poineer, Rajasimha, ,[object Object],has his stamp of rearing-vyala-based pilasters ,[object Object],on the four corners of ,[object Object],the garbha-griham and the ardha-mandapam. ,[object Object],What we see today just the outer shell of ,[object Object],adi-tala and ardha-mandapam. ,[object Object],The sculptures on the niches and pilasters ,[object Object],of the outer walls, though extremely eroded, ,[object Object],give a glimpse of the Pallava art. ,[object Object],There are a few relief sculptures on the outer walls ,[object Object],which are still discernable. ,[object Object]
On the south is Dakshinamurti, Siva as a teacher, ,[object Object],heralding a practice in all Siva temple then on, ,[object Object],Siva as the divine dancer on the eastern wall and ,[object Object],finally, on the north side, an exquisite relief of Siva ,[object Object],subduing Ravana who had the temerity to lift Mount Kailasa. ,[object Object]
This is the highest point of Mamallai.,[object Object],It gives a commanding view of ,[object Object],the vast stretch of the agricultural fields all around, ,[object Object],dotting Pallava creations here and there, ,[object Object],the spread of the Bay of Bengal, ,[object Object],the Shore Temples standing as permanent sentries ,[object Object],and the milling crowd, mostly aimless.,[object Object]
Mukundanayanar Temple,[object Object],Because of the poor quality of ,[object Object],work, it is unbelievable that ,[object Object],this was caused by the Pallavas.,[object Object],But the Somaskanda image in ,[object Object],the sanctum and a few relief,[object Object],sculptures on the supersturcture are,[object Object],the only saving graces!,[object Object]
Mukundanayanar Temple,[object Object],Because of the poor quality of ,[object Object],work, it is unbelievable that ,[object Object],this was caused by the Pallavas.,[object Object],But the Somaskanda image in ,[object Object],the sanctum and a few relief,[object Object],sculptures on the supersturcture are,[object Object],the only saving graces!,[object Object]
Mukundanayanar Temple,[object Object],The Mukundanayanar Temple, ,[object Object],at the entrance to the town, ,[object Object],is an oddity in Mamallapuram, ,[object Object],a Pallava drishti-parikaram.,[object Object],Scholars wonder ,[object Object],how the greatest aesthetic ,[object Object],Pallava clan ,[object Object],could build such ,[object Object],an uncouth edifice. ,[object Object]
It is a pity, that as an introduction to the treasure of Mamallapuram, it its least attractive; ,[object Object],the architectural elements don’t balance, ,[object Object],a very freak un-Pallava shrine by the Pallava-s! ,[object Object]
An inscription mentions its name as,[object Object],Tiru-makalippa-mudaiyar Temple. ,[object Object],Its importance is not in its architectural features, ,[object Object],but because it is the earliest structural temple by Rajasimha,[object Object],and contains some interesting sculptures. ,[object Object],The material used is reddish granite.  ,[object Object],It is different from ,[object Object],leptinite used for the Shore Temples and ,[object Object],softer greyish-white granite for Olakkanesvara Temple, ,[object Object],the three Pallava structural temples of Mamallapuaram. ,[object Object]
The oblong temple has a pillared ardha-mandapam,[object Object],beyond which is a square garbha-griham. ,[object Object],The outer walls contain no sculptures.,[object Object]
Kuta-s, on each on both the floors look incongruous. ,[object Object],The upper floor is squarish and plainer, and ,[object Object],the octagonal griva looks rather tall and ,[object Object],the sikharam above is correspondingly short. ,[object Object],These give the shrine a squat and unbalanced look. ,[object Object],Added to this is the poor stone-work. ,[object Object]
But there is some compensation;,[object Object],there are a few beautiful sculptures.,[object Object],The sanctum houses a typical Pallava Somaskanda, ,[object Object],a beautiful composition. ,[object Object],Also found in the sanctum, a round lingam. ,[object Object]
On the griva are also found some beautiful sculptures: ,[object Object],Uma-sahita-murti in the east, ,[object Object],Dakshinamurti in the south, ,[object Object],Yoga-Narasimha in the west and, finally, ,[object Object],Brahma in the north. ,[object Object]
Mukundanayanar Temple,[object Object],Mukundanayanar Temple,[object Object],'An old ruined Temple about half a mile North of the Village Choultry Mahabilipoorum; from a Sketch by Mr J. Braddock'; 1825,[object Object]
Mukundanayanar Temple,[object Object],Mukundanayanar Temple,[object Object],‘View from the S.E. of a Ruinous Temple buried in the Sand North of the Mavellapooram Rock. Copied by J.S. May, 1819 from the original by J. Newman.’,[object Object]
Mahabalipuram Monuments - Part 4 (Structural temples)

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Mahabalipuram Monuments - Part 4 (Structural temples)

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