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Kantha Embroidery OF WEST
BENGAL
INTRODUCTION
• A kantha is rich multicolored
embroidery from West Bengal.
• It is done with simple running
stitches. Rural women in Bengal
typically use discarded saris, dhotis
and cloth and layer them with stitches
to make a quilt, light blanket shawls,
throws or bedspread.
• Kantha shows the folk expression of
the embroidery's art.
• General motifs used in kantha
embroidery are human figures, animal,
floral symbols, fishes and tree .
FABRIC USED
• Fabric on which the kantha is done are usually the old fabrics that are
already underwent various washings.
•The threads used for embroidery are mainly White, red, green, yellow,
black and blues in colour. Cotton threads are usually used for embroidery.
•Different patterns like birds, fishes,
kalka, mandala, mythological stories
are also figured .
GLOBAL PRESENCE
•Kantha embroidery is practiced in Bangladesh and Bihar.
•This art is not only confined to India but also getting international
exposures through Indian designers' outlets. Tarun Tahiliani, a well
known designer from India has opened several outlets of his kantha
garments in London, Paris, Santa Fe and Washington.
•Various products are made using this embroidery eg. women’s suits, sarees,
scarves, bags, shirts , quilts, pillow-cases etc.
Kantha Products
• The oldest kantha date from
the early 1800s and is embroidered
with blue, black and red threads
that were unravelled from sari
borders.
KANTHAS have been made using
the same technique and motifs,
for centuries.
• Traditionally a Kantha is made of
old used cloth, generally a worn out
sari; it was also essentially a domestic
item, made by poor women for
domestic use rather than display.
• Only recently has Kantha making
been“discovered”, and is now
considered to be a craft worth
preserving and interest has been revived in traditional motifs and colors.
HISTORY
FLOW CHART
• Phase 1: The artisans make some
sketches of design, accordingly to
a specific frame size of desired product.
The sheets of paper have been
previously cut so that the designs
will fit in a frame according to the
measures of the cloth used for product.
 Phase 2: The best designs are selected and are practiced by every
artisans until the motif is perfectly done
 Phase 3: The designs are pierced on a tracing paper
• Phase 4: The cloth that will be used for the
product is cut according to the same measures
as taken for the phase 1, so that the motifs
designed on the paper will perfectly fit on the
cloth.
• Phase 5: The motifs pierced on the tracing
paper are printed on the cloth, using a black
product;
 Phase 6: The artisans add colours to
the motifs designed on the sheet
of paper; they will be the final model of
the pattern for the product; the more
beautiful combination of colours are selected
• Phase 7: The artisans can start stitching on the cloth, accordingly to the
final
coloured model of the design.
TYPES
There are seven different types
of Kantha:
• Lep Kantha: rectangular wraps
heavily padded to make warm
coverlets
• Sujani Kantha: rectangular
pieces of cloth used as blankets or spreads
on ceremonial occasions.
• Baiton Kantha: square wraps used
for covering books and other valuables.
They are elaborately patterned with
borders of several rows of colorful
designs.
• Oaar Kantha: rectangular pillow covers
in simple designs with a decorative
border sewn around the edges.
Lep kantha
Sujani
kantha
Baiton kantha
Oaar
Kantha
• Archilata Kantha: small, rectangular
covers for mirrors or toilet accessories
with wide, colourful borders in assorted
motifs.
• Durjani/thalia Kantha: small rectangles
with a central lotus design and embroidered
borders. Three corners of the rectangle are
folded inward to form a wallet.
• Rumal kantha are used as
absorbent wipes or plate
coverings. They also feature
a central sun with
ornamented borders. Durjani
kanthaRumal kantha
Archilata
kantha
Borders
Most nakshi kanthas have some kind of border.
Either a sari border is stitched on or a border
pattern is embroidered around the kantha.
The common border found are as follows:
The Paddy stalk or date branch (dhaner shish
or khejur chari)
The Scorpion border(Biche par in Bengali)
The motor dana, the pea boder
The Eye border (chok par in Bengali)
The Wavy or bent Border (Beki in Bengali)
The Amulet border (Taabiz par in Bengali)
The Diamond border (Barfi)
The Necklace border (mala par in Bengali)
The panch taga
The Bisa taga
The Anaj taga
The shamuk taga
The wrench border
The anchor (grafi par in Bengali)
MOTIFS
• Motifs of the kantha are deeply influenced by religious belief and culture . The
motifs may include images of flower and leaves, birds and fish, animals, kithen
forms even toilet articles.
•The notable motifs found in kantha are as follows:
Lotus motif
• The represents the life-giving power of water, and is also
associated with the sun for the opening and closing of the
petals.
• It is also the symbol of the recreating power of life. The
lotus is associated with purity and the goddess Laksmi,
the goddess of good fortune and abundance.
Solar motif
The solar motif symbolizes the life giving power of the
sun. The sun is associated with the fire which plays a
significant part in Hindu rites, both religious and
matrimonial.
Moon motif
The moon motif has a religious influence, and
is popular amongst the Muslims. Mostly it is
in the form of a crescent moon accompanied
by a star.
Wheel motif
The wheel is a common symbol in Indian art,
both Hindu and Buddhist. It is the symbol of
order. The wheel also represents the world.
Tree of Life motif
Contemporary Kantha (used as a wall hanging)
with animal, fish, butterfly, tree and human
figure motif. Indus people conceived the pipal
as the Tree of Life...with the devata inside
embodying the power of fecundity. Pipal is
sacred to the Buddha because he received
enlightenment under its shade.
Swastika motif
It is symbol of good fortune. With the passage of time,
the design is more curvilinear than the four armed
swastika of the Mohenjo-Daro seal. The symbolic
design has significant influence in Hinduism,
Buddhism, and Jainism.
Kalka motif
The kalka or paisley motif originated in Persia and
Kashmir and has become an integral image of the
sub continental decorative motif. It can be
compared with a stylized leaf, mango or flame.
Similar motifs can be found in traditional Kashmiri
Shawls.
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Kantha Enbroidery of West Bengal

  • 1. Kantha Embroidery OF WEST BENGAL
  • 2. INTRODUCTION • A kantha is rich multicolored embroidery from West Bengal. • It is done with simple running stitches. Rural women in Bengal typically use discarded saris, dhotis and cloth and layer them with stitches to make a quilt, light blanket shawls, throws or bedspread. • Kantha shows the folk expression of the embroidery's art. • General motifs used in kantha embroidery are human figures, animal, floral symbols, fishes and tree .
  • 3. FABRIC USED • Fabric on which the kantha is done are usually the old fabrics that are already underwent various washings. •The threads used for embroidery are mainly White, red, green, yellow, black and blues in colour. Cotton threads are usually used for embroidery. •Different patterns like birds, fishes, kalka, mandala, mythological stories are also figured .
  • 4. GLOBAL PRESENCE •Kantha embroidery is practiced in Bangladesh and Bihar. •This art is not only confined to India but also getting international exposures through Indian designers' outlets. Tarun Tahiliani, a well known designer from India has opened several outlets of his kantha garments in London, Paris, Santa Fe and Washington.
  • 5. •Various products are made using this embroidery eg. women’s suits, sarees, scarves, bags, shirts , quilts, pillow-cases etc. Kantha Products
  • 6. • The oldest kantha date from the early 1800s and is embroidered with blue, black and red threads that were unravelled from sari borders. KANTHAS have been made using the same technique and motifs, for centuries. • Traditionally a Kantha is made of old used cloth, generally a worn out sari; it was also essentially a domestic item, made by poor women for domestic use rather than display. • Only recently has Kantha making been“discovered”, and is now considered to be a craft worth preserving and interest has been revived in traditional motifs and colors. HISTORY
  • 7. FLOW CHART • Phase 1: The artisans make some sketches of design, accordingly to a specific frame size of desired product. The sheets of paper have been previously cut so that the designs will fit in a frame according to the measures of the cloth used for product.
  • 8.  Phase 2: The best designs are selected and are practiced by every artisans until the motif is perfectly done  Phase 3: The designs are pierced on a tracing paper
  • 9. • Phase 4: The cloth that will be used for the product is cut according to the same measures as taken for the phase 1, so that the motifs designed on the paper will perfectly fit on the cloth. • Phase 5: The motifs pierced on the tracing paper are printed on the cloth, using a black product;
  • 10.  Phase 6: The artisans add colours to the motifs designed on the sheet of paper; they will be the final model of the pattern for the product; the more beautiful combination of colours are selected • Phase 7: The artisans can start stitching on the cloth, accordingly to the final coloured model of the design.
  • 11. TYPES There are seven different types of Kantha: • Lep Kantha: rectangular wraps heavily padded to make warm coverlets • Sujani Kantha: rectangular pieces of cloth used as blankets or spreads on ceremonial occasions. • Baiton Kantha: square wraps used for covering books and other valuables. They are elaborately patterned with borders of several rows of colorful designs. • Oaar Kantha: rectangular pillow covers in simple designs with a decorative border sewn around the edges. Lep kantha Sujani kantha Baiton kantha Oaar Kantha
  • 12. • Archilata Kantha: small, rectangular covers for mirrors or toilet accessories with wide, colourful borders in assorted motifs. • Durjani/thalia Kantha: small rectangles with a central lotus design and embroidered borders. Three corners of the rectangle are folded inward to form a wallet. • Rumal kantha are used as absorbent wipes or plate coverings. They also feature a central sun with ornamented borders. Durjani kanthaRumal kantha Archilata kantha
  • 13. Borders Most nakshi kanthas have some kind of border. Either a sari border is stitched on or a border pattern is embroidered around the kantha. The common border found are as follows: The Paddy stalk or date branch (dhaner shish or khejur chari) The Scorpion border(Biche par in Bengali) The motor dana, the pea boder The Eye border (chok par in Bengali) The Wavy or bent Border (Beki in Bengali) The Amulet border (Taabiz par in Bengali) The Diamond border (Barfi) The Necklace border (mala par in Bengali) The panch taga The Bisa taga The Anaj taga The shamuk taga The wrench border The anchor (grafi par in Bengali)
  • 14. MOTIFS • Motifs of the kantha are deeply influenced by religious belief and culture . The motifs may include images of flower and leaves, birds and fish, animals, kithen forms even toilet articles. •The notable motifs found in kantha are as follows: Lotus motif • The represents the life-giving power of water, and is also associated with the sun for the opening and closing of the petals. • It is also the symbol of the recreating power of life. The lotus is associated with purity and the goddess Laksmi, the goddess of good fortune and abundance. Solar motif The solar motif symbolizes the life giving power of the sun. The sun is associated with the fire which plays a significant part in Hindu rites, both religious and matrimonial.
  • 15. Moon motif The moon motif has a religious influence, and is popular amongst the Muslims. Mostly it is in the form of a crescent moon accompanied by a star. Wheel motif The wheel is a common symbol in Indian art, both Hindu and Buddhist. It is the symbol of order. The wheel also represents the world. Tree of Life motif Contemporary Kantha (used as a wall hanging) with animal, fish, butterfly, tree and human figure motif. Indus people conceived the pipal as the Tree of Life...with the devata inside embodying the power of fecundity. Pipal is sacred to the Buddha because he received enlightenment under its shade.
  • 16. Swastika motif It is symbol of good fortune. With the passage of time, the design is more curvilinear than the four armed swastika of the Mohenjo-Daro seal. The symbolic design has significant influence in Hinduism, Buddhism, and Jainism. Kalka motif The kalka or paisley motif originated in Persia and Kashmir and has become an integral image of the sub continental decorative motif. It can be compared with a stylized leaf, mango or flame. Similar motifs can be found in traditional Kashmiri Shawls.
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