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Growing Sustainable Fashion Economies:
A Collection of Entrepreneurial Case Studies
in Bangladesh and UK




                                               1
Acknowledgements                                   Project partners Department of Enterprise and
                                                   International Development at London College
                                                   of Fashion and BGMEA Institute of Fashion
                                                   Technology give special thanks to principal
                                                   funders of this project, Development Partnerships
                                                   in Higher Education (DelPHE), the British Council,
                                                   United Nations Industrial Development Organization
                                                   (UNIDO), and the companies featured in this
                                                   publication.

                                                   Suggested citation for this report: Parker, E. (2011)
                                                   Growing Sustainable Economies: A Collection of
                                                   Entrepreneurial Case Studies in Bangladesh and
                                                   the UK, edited by Hammond, L., and Higginson H.,
                                                   London College of Fashion.




Contact us
Department of Enterprise and
International Development
London College of Fashion
20 John Princes Street
London WIG 0BJ
United Kingdom
+44 (0)20 7514 7658
l.j.hammond@fashion.arts.ac.uk
www.fashion.arts.ac.uk

BGMEA Institute of Fashion Technology
105 S.R. Tower, Uttara Commercial Area,
sector-7
Uttara, Dhaka-1230
Bangladesh
+88 (0)2 8919986 / 8950535
info@bift.info
www.bift.info and www.bgmea.com.bd

Disclaimer:
The views expressed are not necessarily those of
the funding body. The case studies are based on
the information provided by the companies and
have not been verified or investigated.
Contents   Introduction                           4
           Project Context                        5
           Foreword                               6

           Case Study 1 – Aarong                  10
           Case Study 2 – Bibi Russell            12
           Case Study 3 – Ethical Fashion Forum   14
           Case Study 4 – Jatra                   16
           Case Study 5 – Juste                   18
           Case Study 6 – Kumunidi                20
           Case Study 7 – Prabartana              22
           Case Study 8 – Viyelletex              24

           Conclusion                             26
Introduction   This set of case studies builds on the work of Steps
                   towards Sustainability: Snapshot Bangladesh,
                   available to download on www.sustainable-fashion.
                   com/resources.

                   The UK Government’s Department for International
                   Development (DfiD) has invested up to £3million
                   per year in the Development Partnerships in Higher
                   Education programme (DelPHE). The overall goal is
                   to enable higher education institutions (HEIs) to act
                   as catalysts for poverty reduction and sustainable
                   development. DelPHE aims to achieve this by
                   building and strengthening the capacity of HEIs to
                   contribute towards the UN Millennium Development
                   Goals (MDGs) and promote science and technology-
                   related knowledge and skills. The DelPHE
                   programme is based on a partnership between
                   the British Council, DfiD and the participating
                   institutions. The British Council is responsible for the
                   management and delivery of DelPHE.

                   These case studies are an output of the Development
                    Partnerships in Higher Education (DelPHE) project
                   that has brought together London College of
                   Fashion (LCF), the BGMEA Institute of Fashion
                   Technology (BIFT) in Dhaka and the United Nations
                    Industrial Development Organization (UNIDO) to
                    deliver research that explores best practice and
                   ways forward to improve the competitiveness of the
                   Bangladesh manufacturing sector to add value in
                   this area. This research project brings together UK
                    and Bangladesh research teams:
                   •     London College of Fashion/University of Arts
                         London (LCF) – Dr Lynne Hammond, Elizabeth
                         Parker and Hannah Higginson
                   •     BGMEA Institute of Fashion Technology (BIFT)
                         in Dhaka – Reaz Bin-Mahmood and Rushmita
                        Alam
                   •    United Nations Industrial Development
                         Organization (UNIDO) – John Smith and Munira
                         Rahman




4
The project context   As retailers are increasingly under pressure to
                      ensure that ethical and environmental standards
                      run all the way through the supply chain, there is a
                      need for research projects to explore best practice
                      and ways forward to improve the competitiveness of
                      the Bangladesh manufacturing sector to add value
                      in this area.

                      Bangladesh and the UK are countries that share
                      a reliance on the fashion and textile industry.
                      Through the weaving of cloth, the manufacture of
                      garments, the marketing and promotion of fashion
                      and the consumption and disposal of clothes the
                      two countries and their people are connected
                      by the industry’s complex web. In both countries
                      people have started to ask questions about the
                      environmental, social and economic sustainability
                      of the industry as it currently operates. Misuse of
                      limited natural resources, poor working conditions,
                      overconsumption and waste are some of the
                      challenges that are causing people to reflect on how
                      we can ensure the industry thrives in the future.

                      These case studies document how different
                      companies at various stages of the fashion cycle
                      are innovating to find more sustainable solutions
                      to these challenges. They are not intended to be
                      a blueprint for more sustainable practice. Rather,
                      we hope that they encourage critical and creative
                      thinking about the current fashion system, the
                      barriers that are currently hampering sustainable
                      practice and the opportunities for overcoming
                      these challenges. We hope that those working in
                      industry and involved in fashion education find
                      these case studies a source of inspiration in their
                      own exploration of what it means to work towards
                      sustainability in fashion.

                      Three other longer case studies (People Tree, New
                      Look and Aranya) are available in Steps Towards
                      Sustainability in Fashion: Snapshot Bangladesh A
                      resource for fashion students and educators
                      http://fashioninganethicalindustry.org/resources/
                      reports/snapshotbangladesh/




                                                                             5
Foreword   BGMEA/BIFT and Introduction to the RMG sector
               in Bangladesh
               BGMEA’s (Bangladesh Garment Manufacture &
               Exporters Association) dream was to establish an
               Institute of Fashion & Technology so that the young
               people of Bangladesh can achieve a higher degree
               of professionalism, and experience an international
               education so as to cope with the global nature of
               our industry and meet the challenges of the future.
               As Garment Production for export has been the key
               factor of industrialization and trade in our country
               for the last 20 years and this industry has provided
               a route to growth and reduced poverty. So there
               is a need for a high quality fashion and apparel
               education institution like BIFT in Dhaka to ensure
               that the sector can compete and excel in the world of
               Fashion & Apparel manufacture. Since 1999, BGMEA
               Institute of Fashion & Technology (BIFT) is providing
               mid managers to RMG sectors of Bangladesh, which
               enables entrepreneurs to expand and establish
               Bangladesh as a world leader of fashion as well as
               production. BIFT’s courses have been created to
               produce student's with creative and lateral thinking
               skills with knowledge of modern management and
               technologies and a global approach to business.

               This is a great pleasure that BIFT is currently
               engaged with London College of Fashion &
               UNIDO for this DelPHE project. This project has
               three aims: firstly to ascertain what the current
               practice of sustainable issues are and what are the
               opportunities for the industry to deal with it; secondly
               what needs to be considered when designing
               and manufacturing eco-friendly products in
               Bangladesh; and thirdly to transfer this knowledge
               to BIFT’s curriculum, so that the knowledge can
               be communicated to the industry through classes/
               seminars or workshops. This is enabling BIFT to
               navigate educational approaches that are moving
               us towards being a truly international fashion
               institute.

               Reaz Bin-Mahmood, Vice President of the BGMEA
               Institute of Fashion & Technology




6
Fashion Sustainability – Diverse Perspectives –           UNIDO
How can Bangladesh deal with these challenges?            The tri-partite proposal by BIFT (Bangladesh
Sustainability is a multi-faceted concept that has        Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association
different meanings to different people. In today’s        Institute of Fashion Technology), LCF (London
competitive global fashion industry it is not only the    College of Fashion, University of Arts London) and
environmental issues that have to be addressed but        UNIDO (United Nations Industrial Development
also the ethical and social justice challenges such as    Organisation) was a successful application
fair trade and economic fairness that helps to build      submitted to the DFID (Managed by the British
an environment that allows everyone to flourish.          Council) for funding the DelPHE project on
                                                          sustainable fashion. UNIDO is very pleased that
To face the global fashion industry challenges,           BIFT and LCF were deservedly successful. BIFT has
there is a need for research projects that explore        developed significantly over the last five years to
best practice and ways forward to improve the             a point where students are winning international
competitiveness of the Bangladesh manufacturing           competitions and the Institute is participating in
sector through adding value in this area. By              International Cooperation projects. In today’s
blending research, education and practical solutions,     troubled world the necessity of developing
the DelpHE project is working so as to help the world     sustainable fashion is increasingly evident. What
build a path towards a better sustainability practices.   may initially appear to be a contradictory goal
We hope this project will help us to understand this      (fashion implies multiple change for changes sake,
issue – “sustainability” – more comprehensively and       sustainable implies little change!) is increasingly
guide our RMG sector to deal with these challenges        becoming essential to minimize the adverse
more effectively. If we cannot make a better future       human impact on our planet. Sustainable fashion
for the next generation, at least we should not harm      challenges the present modus operandi and
it. We have no right to make it so worse so that our      stimulates original thought and development.
children cannot breathe one day.                          UNIDO is pleased to be a catalyst in this very
                                                          important project.
These diverse concepts or ideas of sustainable
fashion, ranging from social issues, maintaining          John T. Smith, International Co-ordinator UNIDO
ethical standards, design practice, manufacturing,
production, and/or consumption…etc., have led to
a range of different conclusions, however, many           The readymade garment industry is a key sector in
focus on a common goal, to generate a more eco-           the Bangladesh economy and this is the 4th largest
friendly environment that finds a balance between         exporter in the world but its competitiveness has so
consumption, production, environmental and ethical        far been exporting mid-end apparel products and
practice. Over the last few years, Bangladesh has         to some extent lower range of products. BGMEA
made significant moves towards adopting ethical           Institute of Fashion & Technology (BIFT) was
and environment approaches; such as banning of            established in 1999 to cater to the need for skilled
plastic bags as a use of shopping bag and the use of      human resources for the Ready Made Garment
jute products.                                            Sector of Bangladesh. UNIDO is working closely
                                                          with BIFT to support their vision of improving their
Rushmita Alam, Head of Fashion Design and                 international supply chain management skills and
Technology of the BGMEA Institute of Fashion &            improve their abilities to work closely with European
Technology                                                buyers and retailers.




                                                                                                                  7
Bangladesh factories / manufacturers have to
    respond to increased demands from retailers to
    become environmentally friendly, and ensure
    that their supply chain activities are compliant
    to international standards. These pressures and
    challenges require new knowledge to be embedded
    into higher education systems to drive future and
    positive change.

    At the end of the year 2009 the United Nations
    climate change conference took place in
    Copenhagen, which was about environmental
    friendly issues and the United Nations Conference
    on Trade and Development in Geneva hosted an
    EcoChic fair, “featuring fashion show” in which well
    known designers created garments out of natural
    fibres manufactured in the “most sustainable
    way”. Sustainable fashion implies a commitment
    to traditional techniques, not just the art of making
    clothes, but also to ensure that the next generation
    of seamstresses and tailors have the skills necessary
    to develop clothes that are not only beautiful but
    extremely well made.

    British Council manages and DFID funding DelPHE
    (Development Partnership in Higher Education)
    give the opportunity to work on this tripartite
    research activities both in UK and Bangladesh.
    UNIDO is facilitating as a link to coordinate UK and
    Bangladesh institutes.

    Munira Rahma, National Co-ordinator UNIDO BEST




8
9
Aarong:    Aarong, a successful, design-led fashion brand
                           retailing clothing linen, shoes, accessories and home
     working with 35,000   décor products in Bangladesh, was established by
                           BRAC, an influential Bangladeshi non-governmental
              producers    organisation, in 1978. The company has gone on
                           to enjoy huge success; it has eight stores across
                           Bangladesh and an authorised dealership in
                           London. Aarong’s CEO, Tamara Abed, argues
                           that they are successful because the company has
                           managed to balance doing the right thing whilst
                           keeping prices affordable both in Bangladesh and
                           internationally.

                           Aarong is a member of the World Fair Trade
                           Organisation (WFTO) and its mission is to create
                           livelihoods for women in their own villages and
                           to establish a marketing chain for artisans. The
                           company sources products through both their own
                           foundation, the Ayesha Abed Foundation (70% of
                           textiles), and directly from individual artisans (30%).
                           Through their network of 13 regional centres and
                           623 sub-centres, the Foundation manage production
                           from approximately 35,000 marginalised women
                           working on dyeing, printing, embroidery and
                           stitching for garments and home textiles. The women
                           work out of the centres, rather than in their homes, a
                           decision made primarily for quality control reasons.
                           As well as benefiting from employment, through
                           village based organisations the producers also
                           access BRAC services such as healthcare, education
                           and micro-credit. The Ayesha Abed Foundation
                           provides financial and technical assistance, and
                           training to develop the women’s skills in various
                           crafts.

                           Wages vary according to the time of year but they
                           are generally in the range of 2500 to 4000 taka
                           (£23 - £37). The current minimum wage for an entry
                           level worker in Bangladesh was set at 3000 taka in
                           July 2010, and so Aarong acknowledge that these
                           wages are lower than this rate. However, Tamara
                           argues that because BRAC provides services such
                           as healthcare and education and the cost of living
                           is lower in rural areas it is difficult to compare the
                           working conditions of these artisans workers with




10
mainstream garment factories. Nevertheless, Aarong
recognise the need to look into the needs of the
women that produce for it and determine whether
their wages are high enough.

Websites
http://www.aarong.com




                                                     11
Bibi Productions:   Founder of Bibi Productions, Bibi Russell’s interest in
                           fashion was sparked as a small girl when her father
fashion for development    gave her a book on Chanel. In 1972, she was the
                           first Bangladeshi to study fashion design at London
                           College of Fashion, before establishing herself as an
                           international model for Vogue and Armani and other
                           well-known fashion brands.

                           She now heads-up and designs for Bibi Productions,
                           which sells a range of hand made products
                           including sarees, dresses, kurthas and shirts, as well
                           as jute bags and jewellery that are sold nationally
                           and internationally. Bibi’s collections for Bangladesh
                           are entirely made in Bangladesh and are inspired
                           by the vibrant colours of rickshaw arts and textile
                           traditions found across Bangaldesh. She uses
                           natural fibres, internationally approved dyes and
                           avoids plastic. Her production is based on quality
                           rather than quantity, ‘I don’t want to sell one or
                           thousands, I want to sell hundreds’.

                           Her priority is changing the lives of the rural
                           people she works with and she reinvests all of Bibi
                           Productions’ profit back into the people involved in
                           the company, arguing that fashion can play a role
                           in socio- economic development. She says, ‘Through
                           art and design, it is my intention to sensitise and
                           demonstrate the immense skills and expertise of
                           the local artisans, to preserve the heritage, to foster
                           creativity, to provide for employment opportunities,
                           to empower women and to contribute towards the
                           eradication of poverty’.

                           Bibi talks of her long-term commitment to the
                           communities in which she which works. The initial
                           training for artisans producing for Bibi Productions
                           takes two years, by which time the producers are
                           not only skilled in their craft but are familiar with the
                           different sizes of UK, Italy and Spain. Thousands of
                           artisans from villages across Bangladesh produce
                           for Bibi Productions and 45 people work alongside
                           Bibi in the head office in Dhaka, where some
                           products are also manufactured and quality control
                           takes place.




12
Bibi shares her ‘fashion for development’ philosophy   Stories/Week-of-March-2-2008/Bibi-Russell
and practice in Asia, Latin America and Africa         http://www.thedailystar.net/magazine/2004/02/03/
through her role as UN Goodwill Ambassador.            coverstory.htm
Her design inspiration comes from the villages
where she works, whether that is in Bangladesh,
Cambodia, India or elsewhere. She believes that the
product has to be relevant to the producers and the
market in question.

Websites
http://bibirussell.net/index.html
Audio story http://www.worldvisionreport.org/




                                                                                                          13
Ethical Fashion Forum:   The Ethical Fashion Forum (EFF) is a UK based
                              not for profit network focusing on social and
          building networks   environmental sustainability in the fashion industry.
                              EFF’s website www.ethicalfashionforum.com is
                              a one-stop shop for information about all aspects
                              of sustainability and fashion, including issues,
                              suppliers and competitions. A regular newsletter
                              is available highlighting key events, resources,
                              and opportunities within the sustainable fashion
                              world, as well as regular bulletins reporting on the
                              latest developments in sustainable fashion market,
                              business and supply.

                              EFF’s online community, the Ethical Fashion Network
                              www.ethicalfashionforum.com/network is free
                              and open for anyone to join. It connects thousands
                              of individuals, businesses, and organisations
                              interested in a more sustainable future for fashion.
                              A Bangladesh group has been set up on the site
                              to link everyone interested in sustainable fashion
                              and Bangladesh. Developing an online country
                              network can be an important step towards making
                              links that will strengthen sustainable fashion within
                              a country. Countries like Brazil and South Africa
                              have thriving networks on the site sustained by
                              educational institutions or individuals who have a
                              passion for sustainable fashion and use the resource
                              to organise social and professional events focused
                              on sustainable fashion.

                              EFF have also launched the Ethical Fashion
                              SOURCE [www.ethicalfashionforum.com/source],
                              the global platform for sustainable fashion, which
                              includes the SOURCE Directory; an industry
                              database where designers, suppliers, manufacturers
                              and other companies along the supply chain are
                              represented. It provides an opportunity to showcase
                              designers and producers working sustainably
                              from Bangladesh, UK and other countries around
                              the world. The SOURCE is a not-for-profit social
                              enterprise that provides a service for fee-paying
                              professionals from start-up companies to big
                              business. It offers different levels of access for
                              students and types of businesses. The SOURCE also
                              has dedicated business intelligence reported by




14
the monthly online SOURCE Magazine; providing         or manufacturers to promote their products
information about everything you need to operate      and services directly. Designers pioneering in
business sustainably including markets, finance,      sustainable sourcing have the opportunity to be part
trade shows, and case-studies of brands.              of an exclusive showcase, the Designer Pavilion, as
                                                      part of the Expo.
The Ethical Fashion SOURCE Expo is the annual
industry trade show run by EFF for suppliers of       Websites
ethical and fair trade fabrics, components, and       www.ethicalfashionforum.com
manufacture to the fashion industry. The event        www.ethicalfashionforum.com/source
provides an important opportunity to meet suppliers
from all over the world face-to-face, and provides
a platform for ethical or fair trade suppliers




                                                                                                             15
Jatra:   Jatra is a ten year old Bangladeshi designer-craft
                          brand, which sells hand-made clothing, jewellery
            design led    and homeware. The company has a dynamic
                          product range with new ideas developed daily by
     Bangladeshi brand    it’s designers and product developers. Clothing
                          products tend to be made from natural fibres
                          including cotton and crafts from silk and jute
                          sourced in Bangladesh. Coconut shell, wood, paper
                          and recycled materials such as glass are also used
                          for homeware and the paper bags used to carry
                          products home are made from newspapers.

                          Anusheh Anadil, the founder and managing
                          director of Jatra is a prominent fusion musician in
                          Bangladesh. Through her brand she has created an
                          off-beat trend within Bangladesh, which is now also
                          enjoying success internationally. Jatra’s two Dhaka
                          showrooms reflect the distinctive signature vivid
                          colours of the brand’s designs that are inspired by
                          the rickshaw and folk art of Bangladesh.

                          According to their website, ‘Jatra’s motto has always
                          been to create quality products which should sell
                          on their own strength and not because they were
                          being made in a poverty stricken land by people
                          who badly need a source of income, with tags that
                          create pity’. The company employs 150 workers in
                          their workshops in Dhaka, and buy from 365 self-
                          employed artisans. Workers in the Dhaka workshop
                          are paid by piece, and their monthly take home
                          pay is not less than 8000 taka – considerably more
                          than the minimum wage for garment workers in the
                          ready made garment factories set at 3000 Taka in
                          July 2010. When Jatra established a new relationship
                          with artisans, it provides work whilst raising
                          awareness of ethical and environmental factors.
                          Once the artisans are solvent, Jatra starts to monitor
                          artisans to ensure they are meetings ethical and
                          environmental standards.

                          Website
                          www.jatrabd.com




16
17
juste:   Tamsin Lejeune, founder of high-end fashion brand
                              juste, developed the company’s supply chain with
        a start-up fashion    Bangladesh based companies. Within four seasons
                              she built relationships with suppliers, established a
     brand’s experience of    market for the brand and secured financial backing.

        sourcing ethically    When starting out Tamsin contacted suppliers listed
                              on the IFAT (now the World Fair Trade Organisation)
                              website but when she received almost no responses
                              she took the opportunity to make face-to-face
                              contacts at an IFAT conference. One of the contacts
                              she made was with Ruby Ghuznavi from Aranya
                              (featured in Steps towards Sustainability: Snapshot
                              Bangladesh) in Bangladesh, who inspired her to visit
                              Bangladesh. Tamsin undertook a whirlwind trip to
                              Bangladesh in 2005, meeting many producers before
                              deciding to work with Aranya.

                              While the fair trade production sector in Bangladesh
                              incorporates highly skilled producers of textiles, print
                              and embellishment, high-end garment construction
                              skills were very limited at the time. Therefore,
                              juste’s first collection was designed on the basis of
                              very simple pattern cutting, with a tailored finish
                              achieved through wrapping techniques.
                              Tamsin aimed her brand at London boutiques
                              selling high end fashion products. Buyers were
                              supportive and interested in the story behind the
                              product, however, they advised that the wrapped
                              designs would be less appealing to their primary
                              market – women over 35.

                              In order to overcome this Tamsin identified a
                              sampling unit which was already producing high-
                              end designer fashion product and built connections
                              between this sampling unit and the fair trade fabric
                              suppliers to create a supply structure to ensure the
                              quality required.

                              Tamsin enlisted a number of talented “Designers for
                              juste” who created samples which could be made by
                              the producers in the new supply structure and which
                              were well received by buyers. The fact that buyers
                              had played an advisory role in the design process
                              was an advantage, making them more inclined to
                              review or stock ranges.



18
Tamsin says that frequently, fair trade brands see     Tamsin made the difficult decision to focus her
no alternative than to manage the entire production    energies on developing the Ethical Fashion Forum,
process from design through to delivery. Working       also profiled in this publication. Whilst juste was
with fair trade suppliers with limited experience in   making a difference for the suppliers it supported, the
high-end fashion products can put enormous strain      Ethical Fashion Forum makes it possible to facilitate
on small brands with limited budgets. It can be        fair trade and ethical supply chains for thousands of
avoided through partnership at the production end      businesses, and consequently benefits hundreds of
of the supply chain. Bangladesh offers a particular    thousands of people behind their products.
opportunity in that it has a major commercial
garment production sector which can be called upon     Website
to support or partner with the fair trade sector.      www.sustainable-fashion.com/resources
juste traded successfully for four seasons before




                                                                                                                 19
Kumundi Handicrafts:   Kumudini Handicrafts, based in Narayangonj, a
                          famous jute processing centre outside of Dhaka,
 community engagement     Bangladesh, make traditional and contemporary
                          textiles and clothing for local and international
                          markets. The organisation is just one part of the
                          Kumundini Trust, which was set up as to support the
                          welfare of rural Bangladeshi people. Starting with
                          jute, the handicraft business was established to give
                          employment to women that lost their husbands and
                          sons in the 1971 War of Independence.

                          Today 100 people including highly skilled
                          weavers, block printers, embroiders and dyers
                          are employed in the workshop at the Kumundini
                          headoffice. Product development staff also work
                          from Narayangonj, and lead on design or work
                          collaboratively with buyers on product specification.
                          Kumundini works with a further 25,000 women
                          artisans directly and indirectly across 17 districts
                          in Bangladesh. These women tend to fit the textile
                          production around their daily tasks, and mostly work
                          from production centres that have been established
                          across rural Bangladesh. They are organised into
                          small groups, headed by a team leader. Team
                          leaders come to the head office every two to three
                          months to deliver finished products and to collect
                          new designs and materials that she will then
                          distribute to the women in her group.

                          Their main focus is on socio-economic development,
                          but Kumundini also aspire to be environmentally
                          friendly, although they acknowledge they have some
                          way to go. They use both natural and chemical dyes
                          for example and if they buy in fabrics they request
                          that these are free of optical brighteners and banned
                          azo-dyes.

                          The company now has three stores in Bangladesh.
                          In 2010 they were also exporting 6500 pieces per
                          season of 14 designs to the UK for People Tree,
                          and this is increasing by at least 10% each year.
                          According to Kumundini, the relationship with
                          People Tree is long-term and positive; People Tree
                          designers and pattern makers visit regularly and
                          Kumundini staff attend training workshops that




20
brings together People Tree suppliers from across
Bangladesh. This training covers a wealth of subjects
that are focussed on building the skills of producers,
for example on maintaining quality management – a
common challenge for many artisanal producers.

Website
http://www.kumudinibd.org/handicrafts.htm




                                                         21
Prabartana:    Prabartana is a specialist in handloom textiles from
                           different regions of Bangladesh, including nakshi-
     handloom specialist   buti sarees from Tangail, jamdani from Dhaka, silk
                           from Rajshahi and chapainababgonj and varieties
                           of jacquard saris from Shahzadpur Prabartana.

                           The project was established in 1989 by UBINIG
                           (UBINIG is the abbreviation of its Bengali name
                           Unnayan Bikalper Nitinirdharoni Gobeshona. In
                           English it means Policy Research for Development
                           Alternatives), an organisation that supports peoples’
                           movements with the aim of revitalizing the weaving
                           sector of Bangladesh. Their research into handloom
                           industries concluded that unemployment and
                           hardship for the people involved in the industry
                           would follow if the industry wasn’t supported.

                           Through Prabartana, weavers are supported
                           to improve the quality of their work and are
                           encouraged to develop their creativity and new
                           designs. Alongside this, education, skill training and
                           other activities are organised to enable communities
                           to take full advantage of the weaving sector.

                           Prabartana also aims to enhance the role of women
                           in Bangladesh by challenging the traditional
                           division of labour within weaving. It is a home-
                           based activity involving men, women and children
                           but men have tended to operate the looms, source
                           raw materials and market products. Prabartana’s
                           products are made by both men and women
                           weavers, aiming to ensure tasks are divided by
                           qualification rather than gender.

                           Prabartana have a store (showroom) in Dhaka for
                           it’s handloom products where customers can find
                           out more about how the textile are produced and
                           craft workers can exchange ideas and learn from
                           one another. Some of the company’s products are
                           exported, including to Ganesha in Covent Garden
                           and South Bank, London.

                           Websites:
                           http://membres.multimania.fr/ubinig/prabartana/
                           about.htm
                           http://www.ganesha.co.uk/profiles/Prabartana.htm



22
23
Viyellatex:   Viyellatex, established in 1996, manufacture men’s,
                      women’s and children’s knit and woven clothing in
     eco efficiency   Bangladesh. Marks and Spencer, Tesco, Puma and
                      Esprit feature amongst its clients. It is a significant
                      player in the Bangladeshi industry with it’s turnover
                      in 2009-10 standing at nearly US$200million.
                      The company positions itself as a leader in
                      environmental responsibility in the sector, stating
                      in its mission that it is ‘committed for cleaner and
                      greener environment’.

                      The company has taken several steps towards
                      minimizing energy, water and waste in production
                       including:
                      •     Converting a conventional fabric dryer to heat
                            recovery saving 25% of energy
                      •     Recycling fabric waste
                      •     Converting cotton dust and waste from 8000
                            workers’ lunches to compost – more than 150
                            tonnes of compost was collected last year
                      •     Treating textile production effluent water in the
                            workers’ toilets saving more than 80million litres
                            of underground water per year
                      •     Collecting 60 million litres of rainwater for use
                            in dyeing and other processes

                      The company also has plans for the future to build
                      a carbon neutral factory by 2011, designed to the
                      Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design
                      (LEED) rules devised by the US Green Building
                      Practices

                      Websites
                      Viyellatex Sustainability Report 2010
                      http://www.globalreporting.org/NR/rdonlyres/
                      C6AC9C6C-6FBF-418C-AE77-D6121281532C/4363/
                      GRIViyellatex2009.pdf
                      http://www.viyellatexgroup.com/component/content/
                      article/116.html




24
25
Conclusion   This booklet aims to showcase UK and Bangladesh
                  companies that are championing innovative
                  sustainable business practices. These case studies
                  are intended to inspire and trigger innovation that
                  could be used by entrepreneurs to build better
                  sustainable fashion models and economies.

                  The booklet intends to encourage designers, buyers
                  and entrepreneurs to consider adopting ethical
                  supply chains so as to promote better business
                  decisions. Even if consumers pay higher prices
                  for clothing how can we ensure that this does
                  correlate with better ethical and environmental
                  values? What are the new business models of the
                  future and how can these new forms of businesses
                  balance slow growth, with financial vulnerability
                  especially during the early years of start up? These
                  case studies indicate that it is possible to grow new
                  enterprises with sustainability at the core of the
                  business philosophy.

                  Dr Lynne Hammond, Director of International
                  Partnerships Development at London College
                  of Fashion




26
Image Credits
Cover
Liz Parker (Kumundini)

Aarong
Liz Parker

Bibi
Liz Parker

Ethical Fashion Forum
Image: Design by Ada Zanditon, INNOVATION
Award winner 2010, www.adazanditon.com

Jatra
Jatra

Juste
Design by Jihye Yang for juste, made from jamdani
fabric sourced through Aranya in Bangladesh.

Kumundini
Liz Parker

Prabartana
Prabartana

Viyellatex
Viyellatex



Graphic Design
Shomil Shah

Printed on paper from responsible sources




Disclaimer:
Every effort has been made to check and verify
other data referenced within this publication. It was
correct, to the best of our knowledge, at the time of
going to press (August 2011)

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Bangladesh casestudies2

  • 1. Growing Sustainable Fashion Economies: A Collection of Entrepreneurial Case Studies in Bangladesh and UK 1
  • 2. Acknowledgements Project partners Department of Enterprise and International Development at London College of Fashion and BGMEA Institute of Fashion Technology give special thanks to principal funders of this project, Development Partnerships in Higher Education (DelPHE), the British Council, United Nations Industrial Development Organization (UNIDO), and the companies featured in this publication. Suggested citation for this report: Parker, E. (2011) Growing Sustainable Economies: A Collection of Entrepreneurial Case Studies in Bangladesh and the UK, edited by Hammond, L., and Higginson H., London College of Fashion. Contact us Department of Enterprise and International Development London College of Fashion 20 John Princes Street London WIG 0BJ United Kingdom +44 (0)20 7514 7658 l.j.hammond@fashion.arts.ac.uk www.fashion.arts.ac.uk BGMEA Institute of Fashion Technology 105 S.R. Tower, Uttara Commercial Area, sector-7 Uttara, Dhaka-1230 Bangladesh +88 (0)2 8919986 / 8950535 info@bift.info www.bift.info and www.bgmea.com.bd Disclaimer: The views expressed are not necessarily those of the funding body. The case studies are based on the information provided by the companies and have not been verified or investigated.
  • 3. Contents Introduction 4 Project Context 5 Foreword 6 Case Study 1 – Aarong 10 Case Study 2 – Bibi Russell 12 Case Study 3 – Ethical Fashion Forum 14 Case Study 4 – Jatra 16 Case Study 5 – Juste 18 Case Study 6 – Kumunidi 20 Case Study 7 – Prabartana 22 Case Study 8 – Viyelletex 24 Conclusion 26
  • 4. Introduction This set of case studies builds on the work of Steps towards Sustainability: Snapshot Bangladesh, available to download on www.sustainable-fashion. com/resources. The UK Government’s Department for International Development (DfiD) has invested up to £3million per year in the Development Partnerships in Higher Education programme (DelPHE). The overall goal is to enable higher education institutions (HEIs) to act as catalysts for poverty reduction and sustainable development. DelPHE aims to achieve this by building and strengthening the capacity of HEIs to contribute towards the UN Millennium Development Goals (MDGs) and promote science and technology- related knowledge and skills. The DelPHE programme is based on a partnership between the British Council, DfiD and the participating institutions. The British Council is responsible for the management and delivery of DelPHE. These case studies are an output of the Development Partnerships in Higher Education (DelPHE) project that has brought together London College of Fashion (LCF), the BGMEA Institute of Fashion Technology (BIFT) in Dhaka and the United Nations Industrial Development Organization (UNIDO) to deliver research that explores best practice and ways forward to improve the competitiveness of the Bangladesh manufacturing sector to add value in this area. This research project brings together UK and Bangladesh research teams: • London College of Fashion/University of Arts London (LCF) – Dr Lynne Hammond, Elizabeth Parker and Hannah Higginson • BGMEA Institute of Fashion Technology (BIFT) in Dhaka – Reaz Bin-Mahmood and Rushmita Alam • United Nations Industrial Development Organization (UNIDO) – John Smith and Munira Rahman 4
  • 5. The project context As retailers are increasingly under pressure to ensure that ethical and environmental standards run all the way through the supply chain, there is a need for research projects to explore best practice and ways forward to improve the competitiveness of the Bangladesh manufacturing sector to add value in this area. Bangladesh and the UK are countries that share a reliance on the fashion and textile industry. Through the weaving of cloth, the manufacture of garments, the marketing and promotion of fashion and the consumption and disposal of clothes the two countries and their people are connected by the industry’s complex web. In both countries people have started to ask questions about the environmental, social and economic sustainability of the industry as it currently operates. Misuse of limited natural resources, poor working conditions, overconsumption and waste are some of the challenges that are causing people to reflect on how we can ensure the industry thrives in the future. These case studies document how different companies at various stages of the fashion cycle are innovating to find more sustainable solutions to these challenges. They are not intended to be a blueprint for more sustainable practice. Rather, we hope that they encourage critical and creative thinking about the current fashion system, the barriers that are currently hampering sustainable practice and the opportunities for overcoming these challenges. We hope that those working in industry and involved in fashion education find these case studies a source of inspiration in their own exploration of what it means to work towards sustainability in fashion. Three other longer case studies (People Tree, New Look and Aranya) are available in Steps Towards Sustainability in Fashion: Snapshot Bangladesh A resource for fashion students and educators http://fashioninganethicalindustry.org/resources/ reports/snapshotbangladesh/ 5
  • 6. Foreword BGMEA/BIFT and Introduction to the RMG sector in Bangladesh BGMEA’s (Bangladesh Garment Manufacture & Exporters Association) dream was to establish an Institute of Fashion & Technology so that the young people of Bangladesh can achieve a higher degree of professionalism, and experience an international education so as to cope with the global nature of our industry and meet the challenges of the future. As Garment Production for export has been the key factor of industrialization and trade in our country for the last 20 years and this industry has provided a route to growth and reduced poverty. So there is a need for a high quality fashion and apparel education institution like BIFT in Dhaka to ensure that the sector can compete and excel in the world of Fashion & Apparel manufacture. Since 1999, BGMEA Institute of Fashion & Technology (BIFT) is providing mid managers to RMG sectors of Bangladesh, which enables entrepreneurs to expand and establish Bangladesh as a world leader of fashion as well as production. BIFT’s courses have been created to produce student's with creative and lateral thinking skills with knowledge of modern management and technologies and a global approach to business. This is a great pleasure that BIFT is currently engaged with London College of Fashion & UNIDO for this DelPHE project. This project has three aims: firstly to ascertain what the current practice of sustainable issues are and what are the opportunities for the industry to deal with it; secondly what needs to be considered when designing and manufacturing eco-friendly products in Bangladesh; and thirdly to transfer this knowledge to BIFT’s curriculum, so that the knowledge can be communicated to the industry through classes/ seminars or workshops. This is enabling BIFT to navigate educational approaches that are moving us towards being a truly international fashion institute. Reaz Bin-Mahmood, Vice President of the BGMEA Institute of Fashion & Technology 6
  • 7. Fashion Sustainability – Diverse Perspectives – UNIDO How can Bangladesh deal with these challenges? The tri-partite proposal by BIFT (Bangladesh Sustainability is a multi-faceted concept that has Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association different meanings to different people. In today’s Institute of Fashion Technology), LCF (London competitive global fashion industry it is not only the College of Fashion, University of Arts London) and environmental issues that have to be addressed but UNIDO (United Nations Industrial Development also the ethical and social justice challenges such as Organisation) was a successful application fair trade and economic fairness that helps to build submitted to the DFID (Managed by the British an environment that allows everyone to flourish. Council) for funding the DelPHE project on sustainable fashion. UNIDO is very pleased that To face the global fashion industry challenges, BIFT and LCF were deservedly successful. BIFT has there is a need for research projects that explore developed significantly over the last five years to best practice and ways forward to improve the a point where students are winning international competitiveness of the Bangladesh manufacturing competitions and the Institute is participating in sector through adding value in this area. By International Cooperation projects. In today’s blending research, education and practical solutions, troubled world the necessity of developing the DelpHE project is working so as to help the world sustainable fashion is increasingly evident. What build a path towards a better sustainability practices. may initially appear to be a contradictory goal We hope this project will help us to understand this (fashion implies multiple change for changes sake, issue – “sustainability” – more comprehensively and sustainable implies little change!) is increasingly guide our RMG sector to deal with these challenges becoming essential to minimize the adverse more effectively. If we cannot make a better future human impact on our planet. Sustainable fashion for the next generation, at least we should not harm challenges the present modus operandi and it. We have no right to make it so worse so that our stimulates original thought and development. children cannot breathe one day. UNIDO is pleased to be a catalyst in this very important project. These diverse concepts or ideas of sustainable fashion, ranging from social issues, maintaining John T. Smith, International Co-ordinator UNIDO ethical standards, design practice, manufacturing, production, and/or consumption…etc., have led to a range of different conclusions, however, many The readymade garment industry is a key sector in focus on a common goal, to generate a more eco- the Bangladesh economy and this is the 4th largest friendly environment that finds a balance between exporter in the world but its competitiveness has so consumption, production, environmental and ethical far been exporting mid-end apparel products and practice. Over the last few years, Bangladesh has to some extent lower range of products. BGMEA made significant moves towards adopting ethical Institute of Fashion & Technology (BIFT) was and environment approaches; such as banning of established in 1999 to cater to the need for skilled plastic bags as a use of shopping bag and the use of human resources for the Ready Made Garment jute products. Sector of Bangladesh. UNIDO is working closely with BIFT to support their vision of improving their Rushmita Alam, Head of Fashion Design and international supply chain management skills and Technology of the BGMEA Institute of Fashion & improve their abilities to work closely with European Technology buyers and retailers. 7
  • 8. Bangladesh factories / manufacturers have to respond to increased demands from retailers to become environmentally friendly, and ensure that their supply chain activities are compliant to international standards. These pressures and challenges require new knowledge to be embedded into higher education systems to drive future and positive change. At the end of the year 2009 the United Nations climate change conference took place in Copenhagen, which was about environmental friendly issues and the United Nations Conference on Trade and Development in Geneva hosted an EcoChic fair, “featuring fashion show” in which well known designers created garments out of natural fibres manufactured in the “most sustainable way”. Sustainable fashion implies a commitment to traditional techniques, not just the art of making clothes, but also to ensure that the next generation of seamstresses and tailors have the skills necessary to develop clothes that are not only beautiful but extremely well made. British Council manages and DFID funding DelPHE (Development Partnership in Higher Education) give the opportunity to work on this tripartite research activities both in UK and Bangladesh. UNIDO is facilitating as a link to coordinate UK and Bangladesh institutes. Munira Rahma, National Co-ordinator UNIDO BEST 8
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  • 10. Aarong: Aarong, a successful, design-led fashion brand retailing clothing linen, shoes, accessories and home working with 35,000 décor products in Bangladesh, was established by BRAC, an influential Bangladeshi non-governmental producers organisation, in 1978. The company has gone on to enjoy huge success; it has eight stores across Bangladesh and an authorised dealership in London. Aarong’s CEO, Tamara Abed, argues that they are successful because the company has managed to balance doing the right thing whilst keeping prices affordable both in Bangladesh and internationally. Aarong is a member of the World Fair Trade Organisation (WFTO) and its mission is to create livelihoods for women in their own villages and to establish a marketing chain for artisans. The company sources products through both their own foundation, the Ayesha Abed Foundation (70% of textiles), and directly from individual artisans (30%). Through their network of 13 regional centres and 623 sub-centres, the Foundation manage production from approximately 35,000 marginalised women working on dyeing, printing, embroidery and stitching for garments and home textiles. The women work out of the centres, rather than in their homes, a decision made primarily for quality control reasons. As well as benefiting from employment, through village based organisations the producers also access BRAC services such as healthcare, education and micro-credit. The Ayesha Abed Foundation provides financial and technical assistance, and training to develop the women’s skills in various crafts. Wages vary according to the time of year but they are generally in the range of 2500 to 4000 taka (£23 - £37). The current minimum wage for an entry level worker in Bangladesh was set at 3000 taka in July 2010, and so Aarong acknowledge that these wages are lower than this rate. However, Tamara argues that because BRAC provides services such as healthcare and education and the cost of living is lower in rural areas it is difficult to compare the working conditions of these artisans workers with 10
  • 11. mainstream garment factories. Nevertheless, Aarong recognise the need to look into the needs of the women that produce for it and determine whether their wages are high enough. Websites http://www.aarong.com 11
  • 12. Bibi Productions: Founder of Bibi Productions, Bibi Russell’s interest in fashion was sparked as a small girl when her father fashion for development gave her a book on Chanel. In 1972, she was the first Bangladeshi to study fashion design at London College of Fashion, before establishing herself as an international model for Vogue and Armani and other well-known fashion brands. She now heads-up and designs for Bibi Productions, which sells a range of hand made products including sarees, dresses, kurthas and shirts, as well as jute bags and jewellery that are sold nationally and internationally. Bibi’s collections for Bangladesh are entirely made in Bangladesh and are inspired by the vibrant colours of rickshaw arts and textile traditions found across Bangaldesh. She uses natural fibres, internationally approved dyes and avoids plastic. Her production is based on quality rather than quantity, ‘I don’t want to sell one or thousands, I want to sell hundreds’. Her priority is changing the lives of the rural people she works with and she reinvests all of Bibi Productions’ profit back into the people involved in the company, arguing that fashion can play a role in socio- economic development. She says, ‘Through art and design, it is my intention to sensitise and demonstrate the immense skills and expertise of the local artisans, to preserve the heritage, to foster creativity, to provide for employment opportunities, to empower women and to contribute towards the eradication of poverty’. Bibi talks of her long-term commitment to the communities in which she which works. The initial training for artisans producing for Bibi Productions takes two years, by which time the producers are not only skilled in their craft but are familiar with the different sizes of UK, Italy and Spain. Thousands of artisans from villages across Bangladesh produce for Bibi Productions and 45 people work alongside Bibi in the head office in Dhaka, where some products are also manufactured and quality control takes place. 12
  • 13. Bibi shares her ‘fashion for development’ philosophy Stories/Week-of-March-2-2008/Bibi-Russell and practice in Asia, Latin America and Africa http://www.thedailystar.net/magazine/2004/02/03/ through her role as UN Goodwill Ambassador. coverstory.htm Her design inspiration comes from the villages where she works, whether that is in Bangladesh, Cambodia, India or elsewhere. She believes that the product has to be relevant to the producers and the market in question. Websites http://bibirussell.net/index.html Audio story http://www.worldvisionreport.org/ 13
  • 14. Ethical Fashion Forum: The Ethical Fashion Forum (EFF) is a UK based not for profit network focusing on social and building networks environmental sustainability in the fashion industry. EFF’s website www.ethicalfashionforum.com is a one-stop shop for information about all aspects of sustainability and fashion, including issues, suppliers and competitions. A regular newsletter is available highlighting key events, resources, and opportunities within the sustainable fashion world, as well as regular bulletins reporting on the latest developments in sustainable fashion market, business and supply. EFF’s online community, the Ethical Fashion Network www.ethicalfashionforum.com/network is free and open for anyone to join. It connects thousands of individuals, businesses, and organisations interested in a more sustainable future for fashion. A Bangladesh group has been set up on the site to link everyone interested in sustainable fashion and Bangladesh. Developing an online country network can be an important step towards making links that will strengthen sustainable fashion within a country. Countries like Brazil and South Africa have thriving networks on the site sustained by educational institutions or individuals who have a passion for sustainable fashion and use the resource to organise social and professional events focused on sustainable fashion. EFF have also launched the Ethical Fashion SOURCE [www.ethicalfashionforum.com/source], the global platform for sustainable fashion, which includes the SOURCE Directory; an industry database where designers, suppliers, manufacturers and other companies along the supply chain are represented. It provides an opportunity to showcase designers and producers working sustainably from Bangladesh, UK and other countries around the world. The SOURCE is a not-for-profit social enterprise that provides a service for fee-paying professionals from start-up companies to big business. It offers different levels of access for students and types of businesses. The SOURCE also has dedicated business intelligence reported by 14
  • 15. the monthly online SOURCE Magazine; providing or manufacturers to promote their products information about everything you need to operate and services directly. Designers pioneering in business sustainably including markets, finance, sustainable sourcing have the opportunity to be part trade shows, and case-studies of brands. of an exclusive showcase, the Designer Pavilion, as part of the Expo. The Ethical Fashion SOURCE Expo is the annual industry trade show run by EFF for suppliers of Websites ethical and fair trade fabrics, components, and www.ethicalfashionforum.com manufacture to the fashion industry. The event www.ethicalfashionforum.com/source provides an important opportunity to meet suppliers from all over the world face-to-face, and provides a platform for ethical or fair trade suppliers 15
  • 16. Jatra: Jatra is a ten year old Bangladeshi designer-craft brand, which sells hand-made clothing, jewellery design led and homeware. The company has a dynamic product range with new ideas developed daily by Bangladeshi brand it’s designers and product developers. Clothing products tend to be made from natural fibres including cotton and crafts from silk and jute sourced in Bangladesh. Coconut shell, wood, paper and recycled materials such as glass are also used for homeware and the paper bags used to carry products home are made from newspapers. Anusheh Anadil, the founder and managing director of Jatra is a prominent fusion musician in Bangladesh. Through her brand she has created an off-beat trend within Bangladesh, which is now also enjoying success internationally. Jatra’s two Dhaka showrooms reflect the distinctive signature vivid colours of the brand’s designs that are inspired by the rickshaw and folk art of Bangladesh. According to their website, ‘Jatra’s motto has always been to create quality products which should sell on their own strength and not because they were being made in a poverty stricken land by people who badly need a source of income, with tags that create pity’. The company employs 150 workers in their workshops in Dhaka, and buy from 365 self- employed artisans. Workers in the Dhaka workshop are paid by piece, and their monthly take home pay is not less than 8000 taka – considerably more than the minimum wage for garment workers in the ready made garment factories set at 3000 Taka in July 2010. When Jatra established a new relationship with artisans, it provides work whilst raising awareness of ethical and environmental factors. Once the artisans are solvent, Jatra starts to monitor artisans to ensure they are meetings ethical and environmental standards. Website www.jatrabd.com 16
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  • 18. juste: Tamsin Lejeune, founder of high-end fashion brand juste, developed the company’s supply chain with a start-up fashion Bangladesh based companies. Within four seasons she built relationships with suppliers, established a brand’s experience of market for the brand and secured financial backing. sourcing ethically When starting out Tamsin contacted suppliers listed on the IFAT (now the World Fair Trade Organisation) website but when she received almost no responses she took the opportunity to make face-to-face contacts at an IFAT conference. One of the contacts she made was with Ruby Ghuznavi from Aranya (featured in Steps towards Sustainability: Snapshot Bangladesh) in Bangladesh, who inspired her to visit Bangladesh. Tamsin undertook a whirlwind trip to Bangladesh in 2005, meeting many producers before deciding to work with Aranya. While the fair trade production sector in Bangladesh incorporates highly skilled producers of textiles, print and embellishment, high-end garment construction skills were very limited at the time. Therefore, juste’s first collection was designed on the basis of very simple pattern cutting, with a tailored finish achieved through wrapping techniques. Tamsin aimed her brand at London boutiques selling high end fashion products. Buyers were supportive and interested in the story behind the product, however, they advised that the wrapped designs would be less appealing to their primary market – women over 35. In order to overcome this Tamsin identified a sampling unit which was already producing high- end designer fashion product and built connections between this sampling unit and the fair trade fabric suppliers to create a supply structure to ensure the quality required. Tamsin enlisted a number of talented “Designers for juste” who created samples which could be made by the producers in the new supply structure and which were well received by buyers. The fact that buyers had played an advisory role in the design process was an advantage, making them more inclined to review or stock ranges. 18
  • 19. Tamsin says that frequently, fair trade brands see Tamsin made the difficult decision to focus her no alternative than to manage the entire production energies on developing the Ethical Fashion Forum, process from design through to delivery. Working also profiled in this publication. Whilst juste was with fair trade suppliers with limited experience in making a difference for the suppliers it supported, the high-end fashion products can put enormous strain Ethical Fashion Forum makes it possible to facilitate on small brands with limited budgets. It can be fair trade and ethical supply chains for thousands of avoided through partnership at the production end businesses, and consequently benefits hundreds of of the supply chain. Bangladesh offers a particular thousands of people behind their products. opportunity in that it has a major commercial garment production sector which can be called upon Website to support or partner with the fair trade sector. www.sustainable-fashion.com/resources juste traded successfully for four seasons before 19
  • 20. Kumundi Handicrafts: Kumudini Handicrafts, based in Narayangonj, a famous jute processing centre outside of Dhaka, community engagement Bangladesh, make traditional and contemporary textiles and clothing for local and international markets. The organisation is just one part of the Kumundini Trust, which was set up as to support the welfare of rural Bangladeshi people. Starting with jute, the handicraft business was established to give employment to women that lost their husbands and sons in the 1971 War of Independence. Today 100 people including highly skilled weavers, block printers, embroiders and dyers are employed in the workshop at the Kumundini headoffice. Product development staff also work from Narayangonj, and lead on design or work collaboratively with buyers on product specification. Kumundini works with a further 25,000 women artisans directly and indirectly across 17 districts in Bangladesh. These women tend to fit the textile production around their daily tasks, and mostly work from production centres that have been established across rural Bangladesh. They are organised into small groups, headed by a team leader. Team leaders come to the head office every two to three months to deliver finished products and to collect new designs and materials that she will then distribute to the women in her group. Their main focus is on socio-economic development, but Kumundini also aspire to be environmentally friendly, although they acknowledge they have some way to go. They use both natural and chemical dyes for example and if they buy in fabrics they request that these are free of optical brighteners and banned azo-dyes. The company now has three stores in Bangladesh. In 2010 they were also exporting 6500 pieces per season of 14 designs to the UK for People Tree, and this is increasing by at least 10% each year. According to Kumundini, the relationship with People Tree is long-term and positive; People Tree designers and pattern makers visit regularly and Kumundini staff attend training workshops that 20
  • 21. brings together People Tree suppliers from across Bangladesh. This training covers a wealth of subjects that are focussed on building the skills of producers, for example on maintaining quality management – a common challenge for many artisanal producers. Website http://www.kumudinibd.org/handicrafts.htm 21
  • 22. Prabartana: Prabartana is a specialist in handloom textiles from different regions of Bangladesh, including nakshi- handloom specialist buti sarees from Tangail, jamdani from Dhaka, silk from Rajshahi and chapainababgonj and varieties of jacquard saris from Shahzadpur Prabartana. The project was established in 1989 by UBINIG (UBINIG is the abbreviation of its Bengali name Unnayan Bikalper Nitinirdharoni Gobeshona. In English it means Policy Research for Development Alternatives), an organisation that supports peoples’ movements with the aim of revitalizing the weaving sector of Bangladesh. Their research into handloom industries concluded that unemployment and hardship for the people involved in the industry would follow if the industry wasn’t supported. Through Prabartana, weavers are supported to improve the quality of their work and are encouraged to develop their creativity and new designs. Alongside this, education, skill training and other activities are organised to enable communities to take full advantage of the weaving sector. Prabartana also aims to enhance the role of women in Bangladesh by challenging the traditional division of labour within weaving. It is a home- based activity involving men, women and children but men have tended to operate the looms, source raw materials and market products. Prabartana’s products are made by both men and women weavers, aiming to ensure tasks are divided by qualification rather than gender. Prabartana have a store (showroom) in Dhaka for it’s handloom products where customers can find out more about how the textile are produced and craft workers can exchange ideas and learn from one another. Some of the company’s products are exported, including to Ganesha in Covent Garden and South Bank, London. Websites: http://membres.multimania.fr/ubinig/prabartana/ about.htm http://www.ganesha.co.uk/profiles/Prabartana.htm 22
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  • 24. Viyellatex: Viyellatex, established in 1996, manufacture men’s, women’s and children’s knit and woven clothing in eco efficiency Bangladesh. Marks and Spencer, Tesco, Puma and Esprit feature amongst its clients. It is a significant player in the Bangladeshi industry with it’s turnover in 2009-10 standing at nearly US$200million. The company positions itself as a leader in environmental responsibility in the sector, stating in its mission that it is ‘committed for cleaner and greener environment’. The company has taken several steps towards minimizing energy, water and waste in production including: • Converting a conventional fabric dryer to heat recovery saving 25% of energy • Recycling fabric waste • Converting cotton dust and waste from 8000 workers’ lunches to compost – more than 150 tonnes of compost was collected last year • Treating textile production effluent water in the workers’ toilets saving more than 80million litres of underground water per year • Collecting 60 million litres of rainwater for use in dyeing and other processes The company also has plans for the future to build a carbon neutral factory by 2011, designed to the Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design (LEED) rules devised by the US Green Building Practices Websites Viyellatex Sustainability Report 2010 http://www.globalreporting.org/NR/rdonlyres/ C6AC9C6C-6FBF-418C-AE77-D6121281532C/4363/ GRIViyellatex2009.pdf http://www.viyellatexgroup.com/component/content/ article/116.html 24
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  • 26. Conclusion This booklet aims to showcase UK and Bangladesh companies that are championing innovative sustainable business practices. These case studies are intended to inspire and trigger innovation that could be used by entrepreneurs to build better sustainable fashion models and economies. The booklet intends to encourage designers, buyers and entrepreneurs to consider adopting ethical supply chains so as to promote better business decisions. Even if consumers pay higher prices for clothing how can we ensure that this does correlate with better ethical and environmental values? What are the new business models of the future and how can these new forms of businesses balance slow growth, with financial vulnerability especially during the early years of start up? These case studies indicate that it is possible to grow new enterprises with sustainability at the core of the business philosophy. Dr Lynne Hammond, Director of International Partnerships Development at London College of Fashion 26
  • 27. Image Credits Cover Liz Parker (Kumundini) Aarong Liz Parker Bibi Liz Parker Ethical Fashion Forum Image: Design by Ada Zanditon, INNOVATION Award winner 2010, www.adazanditon.com Jatra Jatra Juste Design by Jihye Yang for juste, made from jamdani fabric sourced through Aranya in Bangladesh. Kumundini Liz Parker Prabartana Prabartana Viyellatex Viyellatex Graphic Design Shomil Shah Printed on paper from responsible sources Disclaimer: Every effort has been made to check and verify other data referenced within this publication. It was correct, to the best of our knowledge, at the time of going to press (August 2011)