What's Digital about Fashion Design?
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What's Digital about Fashion Design? Presentation by Mary Jane Edwards
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What's Digital about Fashion Design?
- 1. What’s digital about fashion design? October 2015 PRESENTED BY Professor Sandy Black Mary Jane edwards Gabrielle Miller Funded by NEMODE Network+ AAM.
- 2. What’s digital about fashion design? October 2015 PRESENTED BY Mary Jane edwards Funded by NEMODE Network+ AAM.
- 3. Overview
- 4. Content • Defining the Digital Economy • Understanding the rela5onship between the fashion industry and Digital Economy • Examples of new models • Highligh5ng opportuni5es for the fashion design community • Open session overview
- 5. Things are moving at pace… …But don’t always last!
- 7. The digital economy As Normann predicted in 2000, the digital economy is libera5ng us from the constraints of: Time, when things can be done Place, where things can be done Actor, who can do what Constella0on, with whom it can be done
- 8. From this
- 9. To this Forbes, Tommy Hilfiger's In-‐Store Virtual Reality Catwalk Experience
- 10. Four parts 1. New information models 2. New mechanisms 3. New objects 4. New markets
- 11. Digital Clusters o 3D Prin5ng o Beacon Technology o Body Scanning & Measuring o Business Support PlaTorms o Brokerage PlaTorms o Crowdfunding o Crowdsourcing o Data Driven Forecas5ng o Design Inspira5on and Management tools o Design Prepara5on SoUware o Digital Embroidery o Freelance Recruitment Sites o Garment Measuring o Inventory SoUware o Laser Technology o Live Streaming o Manufacturing PlaTorms o Magic Mirrors o Material Experimenta5on o Mobile Marketplaces and E-‐commerce PlaTorms o Open Source SoUware o Order Management and Fulfilment o PaXern Digi5sing o PaXern Grading o Print on Demand SoUware o Prototyping o Retail Apps and PlaTorms o Robo5cs o Social Shopping and Commerce enabled Social Networks o Transparency and Sustainability Indexes, Apps and PlaTorms o Virtual Dressing Rooms o Virtual Reality o Wearables and E-‐Tex5les o Wholesale PlaTorms
- 13. 1. New information models
- 14. Data - Discrete facts and figures about people, objects & events information - Analysis & processing of data knowledge - Dis5lling informa5on to incorporate experience and values Raw information + knowledge By 2020, information will be used to reinvent, digitalise or eliminate 80% of business processes and products from a decade earlier gartner predicts
- 15. data touch points E-mail Apps Buyer history Social media WebsitE Digital mags Retail store beacon games Wifi pings Wear- ables Foot fall
- 16. Matching user intent Targeting the right user At the right time With the right message
- 17. Sales direct to consumer going beyond: Mobile marketplaces Ecommerce social shopping Retail apps A Move towards Allowing the market to dictate what consumers really want
- 18. Opening up The process of creation
- 20. The crowd led economy Crowd funding will grow 200,000% from 2015 to 2030 sap centre for business insight
- 21. The “X” of “X” THE [Insert here, Airbnb, Uber, Netflix, Ebay, etc.] OF [Insert industry here] The sharing economy is about owning the customer-supply interface techcrunch
- 22. 3. New markets
- 23. Wholesale marketplaces • B2b marketplaces • Wholesale buying platforms • Online trade show platforms • Global trade platforms • Ecommerce solutions • Inventory and shipping platforms • Data driven forecasting The new online middlemen
- 24. Industry 4.0 “Industrial internet” CLOUD – Mobile – Social – big data – sensors – machine intelligence Access and Connec5vity Loca5on Context Unique Profiling Gaming Behaviours Permanent Data Records Real Time Responses Augmented Experiences Mul5plicity of Content Manufacturing generates more data than any other sector of the economy. More data than healthcare, more data than retail, finance. deloitte
- 25. 4. New objects
- 26. By 2025, the total worth of IoT-enabled technology is expected to reach $6.2 trillion insight Hyper connectivity The use of sensors will grow 700,000% by 2030 sap center for business insight Google, project jacquardIntel, curiE Robots Group, MIT Media Lab
- 27. 3d printing 3d printing usage will grow 2,000% from 2015 to 2030 SAP Centre for business insight
- 28. 3d design apps Eora 3d Microsoft, Fusion app Trupick (brands) rhino electroloom Marvelous designer
- 29. Integrated software KnyXan uses technology that turns the industrial kni]ng machines, which make 20% of the world’s garments, into the equivalent of 3D printers for clothes, enabling users to design and ‘print’ their own customised sweaters knyttan
- 30. THE opportunity
- 31. Producers of tech Skills gaps and lack of brokerage • How do you up skill designers outside of formal ins5tu5ons? • How can we beXer connect designers and manufacturers? • How can designers understand which digital tools would be relevant and how can they access them? Gaps in innovation • Design Inspira5on • Product Development • Sales – Wholesale / Trade • Bulk Produc5on, Manufacturing and Delivery to Retail • Embedding digital opera5ons in life cycle of design How to encourage more creative producers and adopters of technology rather than passive consumers? How to become the creators of new models?
- 33. Group discussions 1. Blurred Lines? How is the transition from wholesale to direct to consumer retail changing fashion design? Mary Jane 3. What Next? Do we need to reclaim the digital economy? Andy 4. Survival of the fittest? How can we navigate the evolving tech landscape? Sandy 2. What now? Where else can we find Inspiration for crafting new business models? Gabrielle
- 34. Speakers
- 35. Quick break
- 37. THANKS for your tIME! Feel free to get in touch if you have any ques5ons or would like to hear more about our work. mary@aamassociates.com s.black@fashion.arts.ac.uk g.e.miller@fashion.arts.ac.uk @MaryJaneEdwards @FIREupUAL @LCFLondon @digitalfashion AAM.
- 38. Links 1 The digital economy • http://www.amazon.co.uk/Reframing-Business-When-Changes-Landscape/dp/0471485578 From this • https://archive.org/details/catalogueno13spr00mont • http://www.searsarchives.com/catalogs/history.htm To This • http://www.forbes.com/sites/rachelarthur/2015/10/25/hands-on-with-tommy-hilfigers-in-store-virtual-reality-catwalk-experience/ Opening up process of creation • https://www.periscope.tv/ • https://www.younow.com/ • https://www.ustream.tv/platform/broadcast-anywhere/new • https://stre.am/ • http://www.fashionschooldaily.com/index.php/2015/10/19/academy-of-art-universitys-fashion-journalism-program-partners-with-sharing-platforms- weebly-and-flipboard/ • https://www.pantone.com/pantone-color-manager-software • http://www.topshop.com/en/tsuk/category/pinterest-4723765/home?geoip=noredirect Crowdfunding • https://crowdemand.com/ • https://beforethelabel.com/ • http://stylyt.com/ • http://www.iamlamode.com/en • http://www.mimoona.com/ • https://www.outofx.com/
- 39. Links 2 The X of X • https://www.renttherunway.com/ • http://www.girlmeetsdress.com/ • http://www.depop.com/en-gb/ • http://en.shpock.com/ • https://www.thredup.com/ Wholesale Marketplaces • https://edited.com/ • https://www.lenewblack.com/lenewblack/ • https://modalyst.co/ • http://www.nuorder.com/ • http://www.e-pitti.com/en/fieradigitale.htm • https://jooraccess.com/ • https://www.balluun.com/public/fashion-wholesale-marketplace • https://www.bfbonline.com/ • https://panjiva.com/ • https://www.threadsuite.com/ • https://www.fulfil.io/ • http://www.stitchlabs.com/ • https://www.try.com/ • http://www.shipstation.com/ Industry 4.0 • http://www.economistinsights.cdefault/om/sites/files/Manufacturing_Data_Conundrum_Jul14.pdf • http://www.forbes.com/sites/benkerschberg/2011/11/01/manufacturing-moneyball-using-big-data-and-business-intelligence-to-spur-operational- excellence/
- 40. Links 3 Hyper connectivity • https://www.google.com/atap/project-jacquard/ • http://www.intel.com/content/www/us/en/wearables/wearable-soc.html • http://robotic.media.mit.edu/portfolio/sartorial-robots/ Sales direct to consumer • http://www.cherwears.com/ 3D pRinting • https://dam.sap.com/mac/preview/a/67/ JwlwnAlgHxUKSPyHyjSwmlnWmmywSRwPwmwUmPSgX4wAHmgc/ SAPTL38_1573DPrinting_QA.htm 3D Design Apps • https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/eora/eora-3d-high-precision-3d-scanning-on- your-smartph • http://www.zdnet.com/article/microsofts-mobilefusion-app-turns-an-iphone-into-a- portable-3d-scanner/ • http://www.marvelousdesigner.com/ • https://www.rhino3d.com/ • http://www.trupik.com/ • http://www.electroloom.com/ Knyttan • http://unmade.com/
Notes de l'éditeur
- AAM intro
- Our starting point Penned application and received funding decision back in 2014 Enabling the designer fashion community to understand and adopt technologies that lead to new economic models in the Digital Economy. By 2015 some of the initial digital products and platforms we’d highlighted in our proposal subsequently closed or been acquired by larger retailers looking to expand their market share. Acknowledge that it can be difficult to invest time, energy and money in ‘digital’ We’re interested in this space because the brave new world that is the ‘Digital Economy’ is largely defined, designed and implemented by corporations, tech giants, etc. It is often very difficult to create the room to take an alternate view, and begin to consider different and diverse value propositions – and question its potential application in new contexts.
- Imagery - big bang, 01010 Digits, Fast car trails, computer icons! There’s still not widespread agreement on the definition of a digital economy in scholarly literature supporting infrastructure (hardware, software, telecoms, networks, etc.), e-business (how business is conducted, any process that an organization conducts over computer-mediated networks), e-commerce (transfer of goods) But new applications have blurring these boundaries in recent years, adding complexity – for example, cloud computing, social media and internet search, mobile web, smart grids, blurred these boundaries
- The important thing to understand about the digital economy. Richard Normann (Swedish management consultant and researcher) view Liberating us from certain constraints offering new opportunities: Time – when things can be done (timing conflicts) Place – where things can be done (no geographical constraints) Actor- who can do what (more democratic) Constellation – with whom it can be done (no seating restrictions)
- More than technological innovation – but innovation in business models, ecosystems and the transfer of knowledge and access to markets Come a long way from - Montgomery Ward- first mail order catalogue in 1872, rural farmers, listings take out middle man one-page price list boasting 163 items, which he sent to farmers' cooperatives throughout the rural Midwest – Sears’ mail order catalogue
- To today’s on demand e-commerce economy Tommy Hilfiger’s fall 2015 catwalk show is now available to watch via a virtual reality experience in select stores in London & NY. The Digital Economy is challenging this legacy model- Where the business controlled the message and consumers ‘consumed’ what was available, and managing risk meant not much more than a solid business plan, and access to credit. The majority of research in this space is trying to understand this change. Hopefully stimulate a discussion about understand the current state of the digital economy and where it is going and how if effects and could support smaller fashion businesses What is happening to the traditional, linear model What difference does it make that the sector largely trades in physical goods and its craft based.
- New models of information – quantified self – data capture and analysis New Mechanisms – new ways of operating New objects – sensors IoT New markets – industry 4.0 – how these things work together in an industry ecosystem Research methodology – scan of all the digital tools, platforms and services that are used or starting to appear in the linear model of the fashion design cycle.
- Desk research selective survey – being utilized and having an effect on linear model and fashion design cycle Make available after today Not looking at over 30 – 4 areas. Interested in how you can start to embed digital thinking in your operations, rather than developing products and then working out how to ‘go online’.
- Disclaimer* Digital isn’t always the starting point – more important what problems do you have and how could they be solved or successes scaled by digital. Never had a seamless digital experience! Trend insight confuse the two. Operations and product life cycle not just about marketing.
- Largely about data collection Quantified Self – choosing products on basis of data they collect. Phone sensors.
- In reality, it’s not actually that long ago that most business professionals had little involvement in frontline or behind-the-scenes data collection or analysis. Data science, data analytics, big data, open data Accurately measure performance, maximise efficiency and make informed decisions that drive growth. Build a picture of your product development, or sales strategy that insight not instinct driven – predictive analytics, very sophisticated forecasting.
- Data as insight Myriad of ways to connect with consumers in retail framework
- What it is doing? Question Value proposition – limted SALES RETAIL/ONLINE, PHYSICAL ENVIRONMENT, B2C, Director to consumer
- 101 example! Created our 90’s dream! Internet digital economy - “democratizing” influence? In reality they tend to have the opposite effect: they foster concentration Value proposition Whilst Lots of free tools to create your own app, ecommerce, its obviously difficult to get traction
- Some of the have led to new ways to open up process of creation Social media – brand partnerships – instagram Live Streaming - Connecting with consumers – new platforms to broadcast which don’t rely on third party platform like twitter Stre.am &You Now Pinterest palletes – Topshop catwalk MyPantone – colour palettes – sharable San Francisco’s Academy of Art University partnered with Flipboard – free magazines fashion journalism and product design
- Omni / multiple channels Traditional ecommerce like Net a Porter still take on significant inventory risk and have big infrastructure requirements–Companies like Lyst and Polyvore – created platforms that allow certain users (brands and retailers) to display items for other users (shoppers) to consume, without buying and holding inventory. Businesses are no longer the sole creator of a brand it much to do with the crowd
- Leaner, lower-risk collaborative retail model to emerge. Example – crowdfunding, crowdsourcing design Range of fashion focused kick starter / indiegogo sites. the accuracy of determining the real cost of an item. Instead of first designing then estimating demand and finally manufacturing thousands of different styles Turn the whole cycle upside down to let desginers and the crowd have a conversation about the demand. Fashion startups such as Before the Label, I Am La Mode and Out of X use the crowd to provide an alternative to mass manufacturing Responding to a growing demand of personalized and unique clothing. They are also a sales and beta testing – designers get approval to run their designs on the site High hopes crowdfunding on-demand system will cut down on production and inventory issues, resulting in no excess stock or wasted materials
- Similar to crowd – sharing / collaborative Monetising latent assets – your empty spare room, seat in your care Consumers don’t need to own things Fashion designers had a reluctance towards rental services Consumers don’t actually access that many brands high end / custom in their life time - designer labels get to be introduced to potential customers on a regular basis. second hand clothes apps These new businesses are not only altering how fashion is distributed, changing what consumer’s understand of what a fashion designer is and what a fashion retailer could be
- how these things work together in an industry ecosystem
- We talked about the internet creating a new distribution model where individuals and manufactures could bypass retailers and other middle men to sell their products directly to the consumer Digital is definitely changing the traditional wholesale and trade model but not as much as you’d think it would – pops up around 2008 le new black and Joor in 2013 Listed focus on emerging designers – connecting them to retailers / brands Where’s the inventory support for SME’s – few and far between – very few end – end suppliers in this chain. Bundling and unbundling of goods repeatedly – delivery to retail or consumer Try.com
- Exiting potential area Huge wave of disruption in manufacturing – as they start to understand the importance of data New buzzwords reflect digitally-enabled technologies that include advances in production, smart products and data analytics. Manufacturers understand each individual item and component all the way through the process, from design to decommission. Early 00’s – United colours of benneton – first to link sales in real-ish time to manufacturing in italy. – Now Zara RFID tags Manufacturers are starting to understand the link between designers and makers is perhaps the biggest pool of value. People who design things and the people who make things are separated. Need technology platform for virtual collaborations and providing digital links between designers and makers. Strong business case for the link.
- Hyper-connectivity is driving a move towards mass personalisation of products and services
- Iot , programmable fabrics e- textiles – examples Integrated software Nano tech – wearables – intel Google Project Jacquard – MIT *hardware robots
- 3D printing provide real tools to help designers make low quantities at low cost Not quite a reality yet, most people don’t realise you can’t create a finished product yet! Equipment is still costly – access.
- So much software available to start thinking about new processes Eora- iphone app – + hardware Fusion app Trupik – 3d draping software designs on body Rhino 3d deisgn software Electroloom – mold design in cad –print faric to mold Marvelous designer– sofware gaming Kynttan
- Software integrated hardware Knitic OpenKnit
- Become even more developed creative producers of technology, rather than passive consumers / collaborators. Relevance to craft / making Design and Inspiration examples Digital in Product development Skills Gap Running a business in current industry The creation of new value propositions New economic models Ecosystems Overview open session link Khan Academy Udemy Udacity General Assembly Digital Business Academy Github, Open Source Platforms, etc. Connecting Make Works Fab Labs Makerversity DSA Manufacturing FIREup DISC, LCF
- Split into 4 groups Introduce Initial thoughts Themed area Nominated person feedback to group Open questions
- Four themed areas –nominated person to feedback to group The next session give you an opportunity to share initial thoughts and then we’ll have a good old debate/discussion, facilitated by myself,SB, GM,AH Four themed areas –nominated person to feedback to group