A Series of Lectures By Mr. Allah Dad Khan Former DG Agriculture Extension KPK , Provincial Project Director CMP II MINFAl Islamabad and Visiting Professor the University of Agriculture Peshawar Pakistan

2. Kitchen Gardening &
Containers Gardening
A Series of Lectures
By
Mr. Allah Dad Khan
Former DG Agriculture
Extension KPK , Provincial
Project Director CMP II
MINFAl Islamabad and
Visiting Professor the
University of Agriculture
Peshawar Pakistan

3. • Containers will offer the
joy of growing plants in
an area where
traditional gardening is
impossible, e.g where
space is limited, like in
urban areas, one can
grow plants anywhere:
on a windowsill, a
doorstep, a balcony, a
stair or a patio, even a
rooftop, in hanging
baskets or in old
buckets. They all can
provide enough space
for an attractive and
even productive (e.g.
for vegetables) display.

4. • One can also grow different
plant species in one single
container in ecological
relationships. Container
gardening makes
observation easy and,
whenever necessary,
containers can easily be
moved around. They can be
positioned as screens, serve
as windbreaks, brighten a
room or create shade.
• A well-planned container
garden can be attractive
(ornamentals) as well as
useful (vegetables, fruits,
herbs), e.g. to produce fresh
food in the dry lands or to
combat desertification.
• Vegetable production in
plastic bottles

5. • Taking good care of it
will result in a beautiful
and functional display,
but whenever deciding
to give it a try: start
small.
• Smaller gardens result
in lower costs. Initial
costs for container
gardening may be a bit
higher, but once all the
necessary materials are
purchased, costs are
extremely limited: less
growing medium, less
fertilizer, fewer plants.
• Container gardening is
only limited by lack of
imagination.
•

6. Who is who in container
gardening?
• Many people are
directly interested in
container gardening:
• People in desert-like
areas or in the dry
lands.
• People without garden
space or with bad soil in
their garden.
• Urban people living in
apartments or studios.
• People with limited
time for gardening.
• Elderly or disabled
people with limited
mobility.
• Flowers or herb lovers.

7. Benefits and advantages of
container gardening
• As container gardening can
be practiced anywhere,
benefits and advantages are
extremely diverse:
• It helps saving irrigation
water (water conservation).
• It avoids a lot of hosing and
weeding (time and labor
saving).
• It enables gardening on all
floors of apartment blocks
and high buildings.
• It avoids competition with
wildlife.
• Container gardens are close
to the kitchen (fresh
homegrown herbs).
• Possibility to intersperse
containers with food crops
and flowering plants
(repelling insects).
• Easy to create good looking
spaces (esthetics).

8. Choice of containers
• Almost any type of
container can be used for
growing plants: flower
pots, planter boxes, pails,
buckets, bushel baskets,
wire baskets, bushel
baskets, wooden boxes,
drums, nursery flats,
gallon cans, window
planters, washtubs,
strawberry pots, tubs,
plastic bottles and bags,
large food cans, an old
discarded wheelbarrow
with soil and drain holes
in the bottom or any
number of other things.
•

9. Choice of containers
• Containers can be
purchased, built or recycled
from all kinds of materials,
even plastic bottles or
plastic bags. It is always
important to choose
containers that best
accommodate the chosen
plant species. They come in
a variety of sizes, shapes
and materials. The choice
will depend upon the type
of plant and the location.
The size of the container will
vary according to the crop
selection and space
available. Keep in mind that
the size, material and shape
of the container should be
conducive to your plant’s
health.

10. Choice of containers
• Consider the following
guidelines when choosing your
container:
• Generally, avoid containers with
narrow openings.
• Plastic containers are lighter
weight, but can become brittle
in lower temperatures or they
may deteriorate in UV of the
sunlight. They are not porous
and keep water over a longer
period, but this may be an
advantage in dry areas (see
vegetable production in desert-
like regions or in the dry lands).
• Terracotta containers are
porous, but heavy; they break
easily and tend to dry out more
rapidly.
• Glazed ceramic pots require
several drainage holes.
• Wooden containers can be built
to sizes and shapes suiting the
location. However, many are
susceptible to rot. Redwood and
cedar are relatively rot
resistant.

11. Choice of containers
• Hanging baskets, often made of
wood or wire, can drizzle onto
furniture or the floor.
• Metal containers heat up rapidly
which can cause root damage. Using
a clay or plastic pot as a liner can
help.
• Wrought-iron stands can minimize
wood rot.
• Window boxes are usually made of
wood or plastic.
• Stone containers create a natural
effect, are often difficult to move
and break easily.
• Sunken containers work well for
plants that spread easily. One can
either bury the whole container or
embed the rim to restrain the plant.
• Use containers with sufficient
capacity, according to the size and
number of plants to be grown in
them. Small pots restrict the root
area and dry out very quickly. Deep-
rooted vegetables require deeper
containers. For larger vegetables like
tomatoes and eggplants, use a five-
gallon container for each plant.

12. • Drainage is very important. Every
container should have holes at the
base or in the bottom to permit
drainage of excess water, to prevent
waterlogged soil and rotting roots.
Waterlogged containers always end
up with root rot. Line their base with
a layer of coarse gravel, a piece of
newspaper, a sheet of plastic etc. to
prevent soil loss through the
drainage hole. Any kind of feet under
the container allows water to drain
out. Place it on brick feet or blocks to
allow free drainage or place a saucer
under them to catch excess drainage
and empty the saucer regularly.
• Dark colored containers absorb more
heat, which can damage the plant
roots and make it difficult for them
to thrive. Paint them a lighter color
or shade the container. In hot
climates, use light-colored containers
to lessen heat absorption and
discourage uneven root growth.

13. • Line hanging baskets with
sphagnum moss for water
retention. Keep baskets away
from heavy sun. When filled
with moist soil, weight of the
container can be a negative
factor. When installing a large
container, mount it on castors
so that it can be moved easily.
• Likewise, consider the shape of
the container because some
pots can pose problems. A
round pot in the form of a ball is
fine for growing all kinds of
plants, but at the end of the
growing season, when it’s time
to remove the plant from the
pot, that is often easier said
than done. When the plant’s
roots grow into the wider
portion of the pot, it’s difficult
to get the plant out of the pot
without severing the roots,

14. Saucers
• Except in cases where the containers
are standing on normal soil, all types
of containers need a saucer to
collect the loose potting soil and
dripping water that escapes from the
bottom. Pour the collected water
into a reservoir for future watering,
because it contains nutrients.
• Most plants prefer to be watered
from the top down rather than wick
the water up from below through
the drainage hole(s). When excess
water drains out of the container,
spaces open up in the potting soil
and air fills those spaces. It activates
the microbiological activities in the
soil, which helps to make nutrients
available to plant roots.
• When the top of the container dries,
the surface of the potting soil tries to
pull moisture up from the bottom of
the pot, but rarely does it all the way
up to the top. So if only watering
from the bottom, using a saucer full
of water, it will never flush the soil.
This can lead to accumulation of salt
deposits on the container wall.

15. Growing media
• Outside garden soil should preferably
not be used, because it is mostly too
heavy, compacting when drying and
then pulling away from the container
wall. Heavy soils normally have high
clay content and a low permeability,
which makes them slow to absorb
water. Once wet, they drain poorly.
They are slow to dry out,
insufficiently aerated and plants may
not thrive in them (lack of oxygen for
root respiration).
• Peat-based mixes, containing peat
and vermiculite, are excellent. They
are relatively sterile and pH
adjusted. They also allow the plants
to get enough air and water. Some
gardeners do not recommend peat,
because it is getting overexploited.
• Commercial potting mixes are
relatively lightweight, but often
slightly acidic; adding some lime may
help to grow certain plant species
(soil test: pH around 6.5-7.0).

16. • You can also mix your own: one part
loamy garden soil, one part peat
moss, one part coarse (sharp) sand,
and a slow-release fertilizer (14-14-
14) in the right dosage per volume.
Some gardeners do not recommend
peat moss (environmental concern),
but compost. I would certainly
recommend to use a small dosage of
the TerraCottem soil conditioner to
enhance the water retaining capacity
an the nutrient content of the
growing medium. TerraCottem also
contains root stimulating agents,
which make the plants growing
better, even in very dry conditions.
Synthetic “soil” suits very well for
vegetable container gardening. This
mix may contain a number of
different materials: peat moss,
sawdust, wood chips, coir (coconut
fibers), bark products, perlite,
vermiculite, …
• According to many gardeners
a “soilless” potting mix (from a
garden center) works best for
container gardening. It drains
quickly, is lightweight, designed
specifically to deter insects and soil-
borne diseases and is free from
weed seeds.

17. • Filling the container
• When filling a
container, leave at
least a 5 cm (2 inch)
space between the
top of the soil and
the top of the
container for adding
some mulch
(container should be
about four-fifths full).
Make it 10 cm (4
inches) for plants that
need a lot of
watering. When
watering the
container, the
growing medium
(substrate) will settle.

18. Seed Germination
• Seeds can be germinated in any container
filled with a good substrate. As they retain
moisture more consistently, plastic
containers are preferable to clay ones. All
containers should be clean (free of
pathogens, by soaking them in a 10 percent
bleach solution for 15 minutes and letting
them air dry).
• Wide, shallow containers prevent both
overcrowding of seedlings and too much
moisture around the young roots. Sow in
small, individual containers when seedlings
are resenting root disturbance when
transplanted. Commercial trays, but also
recycled plastic containers, e.g. yoghurt or
butter tubs, will do the job, after poking
holes in the bottom for drainage.
• Once sown, the seeds should be evenly
covered with a fine planting medium to the
depth of two times the seed diameter, e.g.
0.5–1.5 cm (1/4 inch to 1/2 inch) for good
germination. Very small seeds and light
requiring ones (like grass seeds) should lie
on the surface. Each seed must be in firm
contact with the moist substrate to enable
germination. Use any flat object or your
fingers to gently tamp down the surface of
the substrate.

19. • A plastic wrap over the container
keeps its moisture level stable. Seeds
are sensitive to over-watering or
under-watering and heavy watering
can disturb newly germinated
seedlings. Should additional
watering of a container be necessary,
place it in a basin with 5-8 cm (2 to 3
inches) of warm water and allow the
substrate to pick up moisture from
the bottom. As soon as the seeds
germinate, the plastic wrap should
be removed.
• Seedling production should always
be started in a warm room with
sufficient sunlight. Most seeds will
germinate best with 12 to 16 hours
of light each day. Place seed
containers in a south facing place
and give the container a quarter turn
each day to prevent seedlings from
overreaching toward the light.
• Many seed species need rather high
temperatures to germinate. If
needed, install the seed containers)
close to a heater or on a windowsill
under which a radiator of central
heating sits to raise the ambient
temperature.

20. Seedlings and
transplantation
• Seedlings may need to be
hardened off or acclimated to
direct sunlight and changing
temperatures by placing them
in direct sunlight during the
morning only of the first day,
then increasing gradually their
time outside. It may take 4 to 8
weeks before transplantation
date into the final container.
• Easily transplantable vegetables
are very suitable for container
gardening. Seedlings are
available in local garden centers
or nurseries, or they can be
grown at home. Most vegetable
seedlings should be
transplanted after developing
their first two to three leaves.
Transplanting must be carried
out carefully to avoid injuring
the young roots.

21. Planting in containers
• Plant at the same
time as in a regular
garden. After
planting, water the
soil gently. Should
stakes or other
supports be
needed, provide
them when the
plants are very
small to avoid later
root damage.

22. Sunlight
• The amount of light the
container plants will need
varies with the plant
species. It will determine
which crops can be grown.
Leafy vegetables (lettuce,
parsley, spinach, cabbage,)
tolerate shady places, while
root crops (radish, turnip,
beetroot,) and fruiting
vegetables (tomato,
peppers, cucumber,
eggplant,) need more sun.
Most plants require a
minimum of 5-6 hours of
direct sunlight per day.
Some gardeners use
reflective materials, like
aluminum foil or white-
painted surfaces (even glass
or marble chips) around
containers to increase
somewhat the available
light.

23. Fertilizing the containers
• After the first month of growth,
add a diluted organic fertilizer
(manure tea or compost tea,
seaweed extract) when
watering. One can apply such a
diluted fertilizer every two
weeks and adjust fertilizer levels
as necessary, but remember to
provide the plants with a variety
of nutrients (mineral and
organic, also trace elements).
Follow the recommended rate
of any fertilizer to avoid
fertilizer burn by lack of soil
volume.
• It is advisable to leach all the
unused fertilizer out of the soil
mix by thoroughly watering all
containers with tap water to
prevent buildup of injurious
materials in the soil mix. This is
already avoided with
TerraCottem in the growing
medium, because TerraCottem
absorbs the excess of nutrients
and keeps them available for
plant roots.

24. • Watering
• Container gardening is an excellent
way of gardening to control and
maximize water usage, but pots and
containers always require more
frequent watering than plants in the
ground.
• Small pots and porous containers,
such as those made of clay,
terracotta or wood, dry out very
quickly; they have to be watered
more frequently or one has to create
shade for them. Because the volume
of soil is relatively small, proper
watering (generally once a day) is
essential for successful container
gardening. In an exposed location,
container plants loose moisture very
quickly by heating or wind. So do
larger plants. Not all plants need to
be watered at the same frequency.
Some prefer even drier conditions,
like succulents and cacti, which may
go several days or even weeks
without watering. Water should
reach air temperature before
applying it to temperature sensitive
plants.
•

25. • Plastic containers (bottles and bags)
retain the water longer.
• When plants mature, their root
system expands and requires more
and more water. Judge the need for
water of the containers every day
• If the potting mix is getting dry every
day (check the soil mix daily in warm
temperatures; it should be moist 2-3
cm or 1 inch deep), group the
containers together so that all leaves
create a sort of canopy shading the
soil and keeping it cooler. Mulching
the containers with grass or gravel
pebbles and installing windbreaks
helps to reduce moisture loss by
evaporation.
• If possible, water late in the day to
reduce the hydric stress on the
plants. Soak the potting soil very well
and water again a bit later. The first
watering usually leaves dry cavities
within the potting mix, while the
second watering fills them.
• Wetting the leaves should be
avoided since that can cause leaf
diseases.

26. Plant species for container
gardening
• Generally, small
crops, which have a
quick maturing
period, are ideal, and
compact varieties of
normally large plants
perform better, but
vertical “climbers”
also adapt quite well
to container
conditions, but they
require more space
because of their
vining growth. Quick-
growing small herbs
and leaf lettuces can
be planted around
larger fruiting
vegetables.

27. Diseases and Insects
• Plants grown in
containers can be
attacked by various
types of insects and
infected with diseases
that are common to
any other type of
garden. Plants should
be periodically
inspected for the
presence of foliage
and fruit-feeding
insects, as well as for
the occurrence of
diseases