Indian Handcrafted Saree

Indian Handcrafted Saree
Lect. Mr. Anil Kumar (Textile Design)
Anil Kumar , Lecturer (Textile Design)
Pandit Lakhmichand State University of
Performing & Visual Arts , Rohtak
E-mail-anilkumar@plcsupva.ac.in
Mobile no. +919729138649

INDIAN HERITAGE
HISTORY INDIAN TEXTILE
❖India has a diverse and rich textile tradition.
❖ The origin of Indian textiles can be traced to the Indus valley civilization. The
people of that civilization used homespun cotton for weaving their garments.
❖Excavations at Harappa and Mohenjo Daro, have unearthed household items like
needles made of bone and wooden spindles, suggesting that the people would spin
cotton at home to make yarn and finally garments.
❖The first literary information about textiles in India is available in the Rig-Veda,
which refers to weaving.
❖The ancient Hindu epics, the Ramayana and the Mahabharata mention a variety
of fabrics in vogue during those times. The Ramayana refers to the rich garments
worn by the aristocracy, and the simple clothes worn by the commoners and
ascetics.

INDIAN HERITAGE
HISTORY INDIAN TEXTILE
❖Silk fabrics from south India were exported to Indonesia during the
13th century. India also exported printed cotton fabrics / chintz to Europe and the
Asian countries like China, Java and the Philippines, long before the arrival of
the Europeans
❖End of 17th century the British East India Company traded in Indian cotton and
silk fabrics which included the famous Dacca (Bengal) muslin.
❖The past traditions of the textile and handlooms is still discernible in the motifs,
patterns, designs, and weaving techniques, employed by the weavers even
today.
❖Surat in Gujarat was one of the oldest centre's of trade in cotton textiles.
❖Manufacturing of cotton and silk fabrics was the main industry in Surat, which
attracted the Dutch as well as the English in the 17th century. During the
16th century, there was a vast market for textiles of Surat in South-East Asia, the
Gulf countries and East Africa.

INDIAN HERITAGE
Kinkhab
❖The crowning glory of Indian textiles
was Kinkhab or 'Brocade'.
❖This is a fabric woven out of silver threads,
which makes it very expensive.
❖The thread is drawn out of silver and then
plated with gold.
❖The expensive dresses made with brocade are
meant only for special occasions – weddings,
religious rituals and ceremonies, attending of
durbars or royal courts.

INDIAN HERITAGE
Kinkhab
❖The literal meaning of Kinkhab is ‘less dream'.
Owing to the high content of silver and gold threads,
the texture becomes abrasive to the skin which
makes one almost sleepless and hence few or less
dreams.
❖The brocade became a rage among the early
European settlers in India
❖Motifs of banarsi saree is inspired from the Mughal
era and are very intricate which include intertwining
floral and foliate motifs, kalga and bel, a string of
upright leaves called jhallar.
❖Weave of Banarsi sari is very fine with the use of
brocade technique

INDIAN HERITAGE
Patola Saree
❖The textile known as Patola forms the traditional
garb of a Gujarati bride.
❖The term'Patola' is derived from the Sanskrit
word pattal Patan in Gujarat.
❖It is famous for the manufacture of Patola.
❖ Its technique is also complicated. The weft and the
warp are dyed separately, before weaving, according
to the selected design.
❖The weaving takes place, exact intended designs
emerge. Because of its complicated manufacturing
process, very few designs are available.
Patola weaving
Patola layout

INDIAN HERITAGE
Patola Saree
❖Patola are classified according to the designs
like Wadi Bhaff which has a flowering creeper
motif or 'Nari-Kunjar' in which motifs of female
figures and elephants appear.
❖ The colors used in the Patola of Patan are so
fast that a Patola may get torn or worn out but its
design would never fade.
❖It indeed takes a very long time to manufacture
a Patola, which makes it very expensive.

INDIAN HERITAGE
Tanchoi Saree
❖Tanchoi was brought to India from China by
the three (Parsi) brothers named Choi, who
settled down in Surat to evolve a unique fabric -
a harmonious blend of Indian and Chinese
styles.
❖ “The tanchoi is a densely patterned heavy
fabric with no floats on the reverse; the unused
threads are woven into the foundation at the
back.
❖Traditionally the face of the fabric has a satin
weave ground (warp threads) with small patterns
made by the weft threads, repeated over the
entire surface.”
❖ The designs are usually found interspersed
with bands usually on grounds shaded bright
blue, purple, green or red.

INDIAN HERITAGE
Tanchoi Saree
❖ Flying birds, paired cocks and floral sprays
between these from the usual uncluttered
patterns, while the pallu is filled with the design
from edge to edge, usually figuring peacocks,
and baskets of flowers, sometimes even hunting
scenes.
❖ This saris is famous for delicate and tiny
weaving patterns all over.
❖This is the only sari which has the spots all
over and is warn with double color warp.
❖The main Character of these Tanchoi saris
having their background in satin finish and the
specialty of these saris, the patterns being small
flying birds, small arcs of flowers, pairs of
peacocks and parrots in swing.

INDIAN HERITAGE
Baluchari Saree
❖ The Baluchari saree is native to the town of
Baluchar in Bengal.
❖It was way back in 1704 A.D that the first
Baluchar weaving took place.
❖ At one stage no gold or silver thread was used
in the making of the fabric.
❖The important feature is the white outlining of
the motifs like animals, vegetation, miniscule
images of human beings, vignettes from
the Ramayana, marriage processions, brides in
palanquins, horse riders ethnic musicians to
name a few.
❖Nowadays Baluchari style sarees are woven
using highly mercerized cotton thread and silky
threadwork ornament in bold colors.

INDIAN HERITAGE
Baluchari Saree
❖ The cloth is very fine with a soft drape.
❖Baluchar is a silk weaving centre in
Murshidabad, West Bengal.
❖Baluchar was famous for its silk brocade saris.
❖The designs in the pallav are outstanding. Motifs
include Indian courtiers and European officials of
the 17th and 18th centuries shown smoking
hookah, riding on horse back etc.
❖These saris are woven in ‘Charka’ silk. No gold
is use.
❖The colours are deep maroon, madder purple
and turmeric yellow.

INDIAN HERITAGE
Jamdani Saree
❖ The origin of the word Jamdani is uncertain.
❖it came from the Persian words jama (cloth)
and dana (diapering).
❖Jamdani sari are the product of ancient weavers
of India.
❖They have been considered as “exquisite poetry”
in the garb of colourful fabrics” .
❖The fabric is generally grey cotton embellished
with bluish back designs and sometimes in
brilliantly colored cottons or gold and silver threads
when the fabric is intended for a sari, ends may
have large bold motifs in the corners mostly
variations of corner patterns.

INDIAN HERITAGE
Jamdani Saree
❖ The field of sari will have small sprays of flowers
either all over or arranged in a diagonal patterns.
In the scattered patterns the sari is called “Butidar”
but “fercha” if the sprays from a regular net work,
the Jamdani is known as Jalar.
❖The base fabric for Jamdani is unbleached
cotton yarn and the design is woven using
bleached cotton yarns so that a light-and-dark
effect is created.
❖Jamdani is its magnificent design which is
essentially Persian in spirit.
❖The method of weaving resembles tapestry work
in which small shuttles of colored, gold or silver
threads, are passed through the weft.

INDIAN HERITAGE
Kanjeevaram Saree
❖The first Kanjeevaram sari is believed to have
been woven around 400 years ago.
❖The origin of this saree can be traced back to
the ancient temple town of Kanjeevaram in
modern Tamil Nadu.
❖The Kanjeevaram saree is characterised by gold
- dipped silver/ pure gold threads that are woven
onto rich, beautiful, brilliant silk.
❖The borders and the pallus carry ornate artwork.
❖The designs involve vertical and horizontal lines
as well as checks.
❖ The colors range from vibrant orange to mauve
to purple, green, maroon, blue and rust.

INDIAN HERITAGE
Kanjeevaram Saree
❖The heavier the silk, the better the quality of the
saree.
❖Peacocks and parrots, swans, mangoes and
leaves are the commonest motifs.
❖saris are the vertical sets of caret (triangular)
signs/marks lining the borders; they resemble
pinnacles of temples and hence probably the
name.
❖Kanjeewaram saris are always woven with full
bright colors and shot effects with an effective
display of zari thread in borders and pallavs.
❖ A special feature of this Kanjeewaram sari is the
contrast pallav.

INDIAN HERITAGE
Chanderi Saree
❖The Chanderi cotton sarees of Madhya Pradesh
are ideal summer wear. Usually in subtle hues,
they possess an air of unmatched sophistication.
❖Chanderi silk saris generally have a rich gold
border and two gold bands on the pallav (the part
that goes over and beyond the shoulders).
❖The more expensive sarees have gold checks
with lotus roundels all over which are known
as butis.
❖The hallmark of Chanderis lies in its reference to
nature.
❖The typical motifs are earth and sky, hunting
scenes, the tree of life, men and women, birds,
fruits, flowers, heavenly bodies.

INDIAN HERITAGE
Chanderi Saree
❖The designs forms are linear and bear close
resemblance to the marble jewel inlay work found
in Mughul architecture and artifacts.
❖This chenderi has for long been the reputed
production centre of superfine saris, whose border,
pallav and traditional buttis have won admiration of
fashionable women all over the country.
❖ Most chanderi saris are of silk warp and
sometimes woven with fine raw warp and cotton
weft.
❖ The special feature of these saris is broad cross
border or pallav which is woven in cotton, silk, zari
with floral and other stylized ornamentation which
require special traditional harness known as
Nakshas.

INDIAN HERITAGE
Maheshwari Saree
❖Maheshwari sarees, from the town of
Maheshwar,(MP) on the banks of the Narmada,
available in both cotton and silk are the last words
in simplicity.
❖The entire surface of such a sari is either
chequered or plain or has stripes, combined with
complementary colors.
❖it is reversible border, which makes it wearable
on both the sides. of the sari which can be worn
either side, is a specialty.
❖The pallav (the portion that goes over and
beyond the shoulders) of Maheshwari saree is
characterized by three colored and two white
alternating stripes.

INDIAN HERITAGE
Maheshwari Saree
❖Maheshwari sarees are rendered in silk also, which
are of course more expensive than their cotton
counterparts.
❖Maheshwar is noted as a centre for weaving
colourful Maheshwari saris.
❖These cotton saree are weaved with distinctive
designs involving stripes, checks and floral borders.
❖Sari is designed by queen Ahilya Bai Holkar of
Madhya Pradesh herself each Maheshwari Saree
Conjures up a picture of royal Elegance.
❖it Is woven from silk and cotton fibres and
embellished with gold zari

INDIAN HERITAGE
Tusaar Saree
Tussar (Kosa silk), is valued for its purity and
texture.
It is very much famous in Bihar & Jharkhand state.
It is drawn from cocoons especially grown
on arjun, saja or sal trees.
It is available in natural shades of gold-pale, dark,
honey, tawny, beige and cream.
Tussar is considered an ideal as well as auspicious
wear for marriages, religious ceremonies and other
important social functions.
The original rich gold shade Tussar is sometimes
dyed, producing colours of a very special hue and
depth.

INDIAN HERITAGE
Tusaar Saree
❖Earlier only natural dyes were used which
included yellow from the palash (flame of the
forest) and kusum flowers, red pollen dust of
the rora flower and the deep rose red from lac.
❖The range of colour and motifs have increased
dramatically.
❖It is also used as base material for handicrafts
and stitched apparel.
❖Tussar silk is considered more textured than
cultivated or "mulberry" silk but it has shorter fibres,
which makes it less durable.
❖Tussar silk sari is know for it textured and it
replace the Mulberry Silk .

INDIAN HERITAGE
Paithani Saree
❖Paithani sarees, woven exclusively in the
Paithan region of the western state of
Maharashtra.
❖The gold embroidered Paithani sarees with their
exquisitely beautiful designs depict the blend of
the aesthetic with the symbolic.
❖The Rig Veda mentions a golden, woven fabric
and the Greek records mention gorgeous Paithani
fabrics from the well-known, ancient trading
centre, Pratisthan or Paithan (in Maharashtra).
❖
The typical, traditional paithani used to be a plain
sari with a heavy zari border and
ornamental pallav (the portion that goes over and
beyond the shoulder).

INDIAN HERITAGE
Paithani Saree
❖Motifs of this saree is stars, parrots circles,
peacocks, flowers asavali(flower and
vine), narli (coconut) and paisleys.
❖In the bygone centuries, the zari used in making
Paithanis was drawn from pure gold.
❖Now a days silver is substituted for gold, in order
to make these saris ore affordable to many people.
❖The pallav and border are woven with gold and
silver either mixed or individually.
❖The main feature of these saris is different
borders with an elaborate pallav.

INDIAN HERITAGE
Balarampuram Saree
❖Balarampuram (Kerala) saris are generally done
in 100s X 100s in kora white with elaborate gold
and heavy denting in the borders.
❖saris have introduced colour in the body with
‘zari’ borders, plain grounds with coloured border
and the use of silver.
❖The principal type of hand-woven fabric
produced in Kerala is sari.
❖The weavers use a primitive type of pit looms for
the production of exclusively cotton fabrics with
pure zeri.
❖They do not use any type of improved
appliances such as Dobby, Jacquard, Jala, etc.

INDIAN HERITAGE
Balarampuram Saree
❖Identical appearance of designs, including warp and
weft stripes on the face and backside of the fabric is
obtained by this technique of weaving.
❖The designs with zeri or coloured yarn, using the
age-old technique still has unparallel appeal which can
attract even the most sophisticated customers.
❖It is a prestigious bridal gift in marriages.
❖It is famous as the centre for the production
of traditional varieties of handloom textiles meant for
the contemporary cloth wearing style of Kerala.

INDIAN HERITAGE
Pochampali Saree
❖Pochampally Saree or Pochampalli Ikat is
a saree made in Boodhan Pochampally,Nalgonda
district, India.
❖ They are popular for their traditional geometric
patterns in Ikat style of dyeing.
❖The intricate geometric design find their way into the
hands of skillful weavers and make it to the market as
beautiful sarees and dress material.
❖Pochampally sarees have been popular since early
1800s.
❖Pochampally Ikat uniqueness lies in the transfer of
intricate design and colouring onto warp and weft
threads first and then weave them together.

INDIAN HERITAGE
Pochampali Saree
❖The fabric is cotton, silk and sico - a mix of
exquisite silk and cotton. Increasingly, the colours
themselves are from natural sources and their
blends.
❖Pochampally saree received Intellectual Property
Rights Protection or Geographical Indication (GI)
status in 2005.
❖Pochampally has traditional looms, whose design
is more than a century-old.
❖Pochampally is an interesting collage of tradition,
history, heritage, modernity and widely known
for Pochampally Saree.
❖ The fabrics include saris, bedline, bedsheets,
bedcover, tablecloths, napkins, placemats, yardage
materials etc.

INDIAN HERITAGE
Sambalpur Saree
❖The remarkable Ikat technique, a precision
handwork, is a thriving handloom manufacture
operation in Orrisa.
❖The ‘Bjulia Mehar’, ‘Gaudia patra’ and ‘Asani
patra’ weavers of Orrisa are known for single and
double Ikat technique both in cotton and silk.
❖The sari is a traditional female garment in
the Indian Subcontinent consisting of a strip of
unstitched cloth ranging from four to nine meters
in length that is draped over the body in various
styles.
❖ Motifs are shankha (shell),chakra (wheel),
phula (flower), Hathi (Gaja) all of which have
deep symbolism, the main point is 'Bandhakala',
the Tie-dye art reflected in their intricate weaves,
also known as Sambalpuri "Ikkat".

INDIAN HERITAGE
Sambalpur Saree
❖ In this technique, the threads are first tie-dyed
and later woven into a fabric, with the entire
process taking many weeks.
❖These sarees first became popular outside the
state when the late Prime Minister Indira
Gandhi started wearing them. In the 1980s and
1990s they became popular across India.
❖ Orrisa Ikats are very popular all over India
and outside.
❖They are used as saris bedcovers, bolsters
and cushion covers, table cloths and mats,
napkins, scarves, stoles, door and window
screens, skirt materials etc.

INDIAN HERITAGE
Sambalpur Saree
❖Kota doria or Kota Sari is one of many types
of sari garments made at Kota, Rajasthan.
❖Sarees are made of pure cotton and silk and have
square like patterns known as khats on them.
❖The chequered weave of a Kota sari is very
popular.
❖They are very fine weaves and weigh very less.
❖saris were called Masuria because they were
woven in Mysore.
❖He weavers were brought to Kota in the late 17th
and early 18th century and the sarees came to be
known as 'Kota-Masuria'.

INDIAN HERITAGE
Sambalpur Saree
❖Kota Doria is woven on a traditional pit loom in
such a fashion that it produces square checks
pattern on the fabric.
❖The delicately wrought checks are locally known
as khats.
❖They smear onion juice and rice paste with a lot
of care into the yarn making the yarn so strong
that no additional finishing is needed.

Indian Handcrafted Saree

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