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「レシピのその先に」
Unwrittenな庶民の家庭料理を
Oral Historyで解き明かす
Aoi Nakakoji
背景:料理は「書かれたもの」半分、「書かれていないもの」半分
Written Unwritten
Many researches
Recipe services POTENTIAL
Cooking
書かれていないもの=庶民の家庭料理
図は起案者の研究内容から引用
参照:https://community.camp-fire.jp/projects/view/643013
「レシピを書くのは誰か」
家族内では口伝えの継承が多い
歴史的には、識字率の問題、食は政
治の一部であったが故の記録需要
の問題などで、貴族料理のみが書か
れてきた
庶民料理はUnwrittenだけど価値がある
・Story
家族の歩み、農民の伝統、ある時ある場所の生活
・Sustainable
土地と生きる食
・Healty
毎日食べてきたものには理由がある
・Culture
90%の庶民が文化を作る
写真は南イタリアプーリア州、 83歳のおばあちゃんの家を訪ねた時
Unwrittenな家庭料理を解き明かすためのアプローチ
Oral History Approach
・「内の料理」「ケの料理」が明らかに
:こんなもの人に見せられるようなものではないけれど、でも、、
・「人の生」に焦点
:その一皿はなぜ生まれたのか
・消えゆく知恵を残す
:気付かれていなくても、母の料理には知恵がたくさん
など。
オーラル・ヒストリーは比較的新しい学術手法だが、歴史学だけでなく文化人類学や社会学など横断的なアプローチが可
能で、従来の歴史学の限界をこえる可能性に注目が集まっている
My Approach of Oral Cooking History
On the table with foto In the kitchen On the table with food
実現したいこと
1. Tons of Interviews 2. Output 3. Culture (re)creation
論文
コラボ(Cookpad Community,
Recipes, Magazines, etc)
イベント
既存の文化の仕組みを壊し
ボトムアップで文化を作る
=庶民料理の貢献を切り口に
参考:oral history projects
https://www.foodwaystexas.org/
https://volt.utep.edu/epfoodvoices/
Output案
1 論文、寄稿、レシピ化
学術界、自分の興味、少数の共感者だけに閉じていると広がらないので、、、
協会を設立して利益と研究が回る仕組み
2 イベント「Cucina della Nonna(おばあちゃんの料理)」
実際の料理を通して楽しみ、人が繋がる
3 料理のオーラルヒストリー博物館「Senza Ricetta」
名前もレシピもなかった料理の博物館で歴史を残す
協会
研究者
会員
共創
パートナー探し
・「レシピの先に」
レシピは氷山の一角。眠る料理で新たなサービスを考える。
・「料理を楽しく」
マンマのケの日の料理は、簡単で、ヘルシーで、美味しい。
・「料理は人を繋ぐ」
料理する第一の理由はコミュニケーション。料理のコミュニティを作る。
Aoi Nakakoji
50ヶ国旅をして、それでもイタリアが好き。
現在、ボローニャ大学で料理の歴史文化を研究
専門は「オーラルヒストリーによるイタリア庶民料理」
*略歴*
2018年に東京大学を卒業
新卒でクックパッド海外事業部に就職
会社員と料理家のパラレルワークを経て
現在イタリアのボローニャ大学の大学院にて研究
実績
「イタリア全20州、マンマを訪ねて3000里」
:https://camp-fire.jp/projects/view/483261
2年間で20州の家庭を訪ね、料理を習う
オンライン料理教室「イタリアのマンマ直伝パスタクラス」
:https://aurorapasta.base.shop/
開催数280回、のべ生徒数2500人、ストアカ2年連続全国No.1、2021年アワード
W受賞、企業向けも多数実施
雑誌「1番近いイタリア」
:https://piuvicinoaitalia.stores.jp/
2020年より四半期に1度刊行
その他、料理会、講演、執筆など。
※全て現在も活動中
推薦者(抜粋・翻訳)
Antonio Schiavulli
ボローニャ大学歴史文化学部「Global Cultures」コースディレクター
彼女はとにかく優秀で特筆すべき人間性を持ち、コースの教授陣一同、活躍を大いに期待しています。彼女
は非常に勉強熱心で賢いだけでなく、性格も魅力的で皆から愛され、これはプロジェクトや長い研究生活に
とって非常に重要な意味を持ちます。イタリア全州の家庭料理を習うプロジェクトも必ずや遂行し、多くの示
唆を得ることでしょう。私は彼女の目標達成を確信し、また心から応援しています。
Laura Volse
訪ねた家庭のマンマ・ラウラ
彼女はプーリアの私たちの家に、エネルギーと強さを携えてやって来ました。彼女は心に太陽を持っていま
す。どんな時も前向きで、育ち良く教育され、教養に溢れ、好奇心が旺盛です。彼女の周りには持てる情報
の全てを与え、彼女の鞄をお土産でいっぱいにする人々がいます。彼女は私たちから多くの料理を学びまし
たが、レシピだけでなく歴史や伝統を吸収し、人に伝えています。私の家族は彼女を娘のように愛していま
す。今までもこれからもずっと支えたいと思います。

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「レシピのその先に」 Unwrittenな庶民の家庭料理を Oral Historyで解き明かす