1. The Loire Valley
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STAFF TRAINING MODULE
The Loire River is Europe’s last wild river and France’s longest, meandering on a 629
mile-long path from its headwaters in the Massif Central to its mouth near Nantes on
the Atlantic Coast. The Loire Valley produces a great range of wines from myriad grapes
and regions, yet the wines crafted along the river’s path share a common versatility, lift
and energy at the table. In terms of pure value, Loire wines are unmatched.
2. Pays Nantais: This region surrounds the city of
Nantes near the Loire’s mouth on the Atlantic
Coast. With a cool and wet maritime climate,
the Pays Nantais produces lean, often sheer
white wines from Melon de Bourgogne—the
grape of Muscadet—and Gros Plant.
Anjou-Saumur: This vast, dynamic area of wine
production sweeps southward from the city of
Angers and the Loire River east of Pays Nantais.
The Region
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The Loire Valley is divided into four sectors:
The Loire Valley, known as Jardin de la France (“garden of France”), is a picturesque and bountiful
region of small vineyards, farms, pastures, and orchards. The region covers a vast terrain from Sancerre
to Nantes and occupies a series of changing climates and shifting soils. Much of the region lies on or
above the 47th parallel, placing the Loire Valley among France’s northernmost winegrowing areas.
Thus, the Loire produces more white wines than any other region in France, and is second only to
Champagne in sparkling wine production. Organic and biodynamic vineyards are a common sight
throughout the Loire, and interest in “natural” winemaking is high among younger producers.
While maritime influences still affect Anjou’s climate, the ocean’s moderating influence is tempered by
vast forests southwest of Anjou. The schist soils common in the western half of Anjou give way to
tuffeau limestone in Saumur to the east. Anjou produces a vast amount of rosé wines—many of which
are vinified in an off-dry style—and Saumur is the Loire’s center for sparkling wine production.
Touraine: The region surrounding Tours is scattered with châteaux and home to iconic representations
of Chenin Blanc and Cabernet Franc. Soft tuffeau limestone underlies much of Touraine, providing
excellent water drainage for vines as well as a malleable material for the excavation of underground
cellars.
Central Vineyards: To the east, the Loire’s Central Vineyards experience a more continental climate,
with a shorter growing season than those areas to the west. Grapes like Cabernet Franc fare poorly
this far up the river, but Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir excel.
3. The Major Grapes
Best known as the grape of Muscadet, Melon is a fairly neutral grape, characterized by
pronounced acidity, lean structure, and lemon, saline and mineral flavors. Many estates choose
to produce “sur lie” Muscadet wines, in which the wine is left in contact with its lees for a
period of months after fermentation, and bottled unfiltered. Muscadet “sur lie” tends to be
richer than basic bottlings, with a slightly creamier mouthfeel and a subtle prickle. Aromatic
complexity is enhanced by leesy flavors of brioche and nut. Young Muscadet and East Coast
oysters are a revelation, but the wines may also pair well with sushi and a variety of other light
fish courses.
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Melon de Bourgogne
Muscadet AOP: As basic appellation for Melon
wines produced throughout the Pays Nantais,
Muscadet AOP is best consumed in the
vibrancy of youth. These are not aromatic wines,
and they are best presented at the beginning of
a meal.
Muscadet Sèvre-et-Maine AOP: The best “sur
lie” examples from the premier appellation for
Muscadet may strike tasters as Chablis-like, and
may improve with bottle age.
Important AOPs for Muscadet/Melon de Bourgogne
4. The Major Grapes
With its characteristic fragrance of honey, herbal tea, damp hay and flowers, Loire Chenin Blanc
provides rich tasting imagery. The wine is produced in many different styles—dry, sweet, off-dry,
sparkling, semi-sparkling—and has an array of applications tableside. Even in sweeter forms,
Chenin Blanc provides cleansing acidity. The Loire Valley sets the gold standard for Chenin Blanc.
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Chenin Blanc
Coteaux du Layon AOP: South of Savennières, the region of Coteaux
du Layon produces off-dry to lusciously sweet wines from Chenin Blanc.
Lighter styles are appropriate for a springtime aperitif, whereas richer,
sweeter versions are more appropriate for dessert or cheeses. Coteaux
du Layon can be a lighter and sprightlier pairing with foie gras than
Sauternes, particularly at the beginning of a lengthy tasting menu.
Important AOPs for Chenin Blanc
Bonnezeaux AOP and Quarts de Chaume “Grand Cru” AOP: Reserved for sweet, botrytis-affected
wines from small areas within Anjou, these two appellations offer some of the Loire Valley’s most
complex and rewarding dessert wines.
Label Terminology:
Sec: Dry
Demi-Sec: Semi-dry
Moelleux: Sweet
Pétillant: Semi-Sparkling
Mousseux: Fully Sparkling
Vouvray: Located in Touraine, Vouvray produces still Chenin Blanc
wines across the full range of sweetness, and the occasional sparkling
examples retain rich varietal character. Even when labeled dry,
Vouvray wines offer a wisp of sweetness on the palate. Vouvray can
be a great match with earthy components on the plate—beets,
carrots or spring turnips—that connote a similar suggestion of
sweetness. Off-dry wines from Vouvray are versatile with ripe cheeses.
Savennières AOP: The small appellation of Savennières in Anjou is known
for dry, oxidative, and full-bodied styles of Chenin Blanc: At 13.5% alcohol
or more, Savennières is the Loire’s most powerful white wine. Here, Chenin
takes on more viscous tones of honey, roasted apple and ginger; it
accompanies richer dishes, particularly those with cream-based components,
poultry, and game. Two single vineyards in Savennières, Coulée de Serrant
and Roche Aux Moine have earned their own AOP designations.
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The Major Grapes
Green and grassy, sharp and stony—in the white wines of the Central Vineyards,
Sauvignon Blanc etches a classic, direct profile of vegetal pungency, citrus and
passion fruit. As the variety’s popularity continues to rise, Sauvignon Blanc acreage
is increasing elsewhere in the Loire as well.
Sauvignon Blanc
Sancerre AOP: The Central Vineyards’ Sancerre is the classic home of Sauvignon
Blanc. The wines are often fermented and raised in tank or neutral wood, so the
variety’s sharp, mineral character is unobstructed by the flavors of oak. Today, some
producers veer toward the style of New Zealand, offering louder aromatic intensity
and showier tropical aromas, whereas others produce tight, steely wines of citrus
and nerve. Overall, these light- to medium-bodied white wines elevate the tang of
fresh goat cheese admirably, and pair well with garden vegetables, green salads,
ceviche, and other light seafood courses.
Pouilly-Fumé AOP: Located across the Loire River from Sancerre, the wines of the
Pouilly-sur-Loire and surrounding townships are similar in style. In contrast with
Sancerre, tasters may ascribe a greater presence of flint and smoke to the wines of
Pouilly, and oak is a more common feature in the region's cellars.
Important AOPs for Sauvignon Blanc
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The Major Grapes
In the cooler vineyards of the Loire—where Cabernet Sauvignon has
difficulty ripening—Cabernet Franc shines. The wines brim with
raspberry and cherry flavors, tobacco and green herb. New oak is an
infrequent feature. The wines are medium- to full-bodied, with
elevated acidity and alcohol levels of 13% or more. Tannins can be
Cabernet Franc
Chinon is the most famous address for Cabernet Franc in the Loire, but there are other
AOPs in its vicinity that produce a very similar style of wine. The rustic reds of
neighboring Bourgueil AOP and the more floral, aromatic examples from
Saumur-Champigny AOP, whose name is derived from the Latin campus ignis, or "field of
fire", can be every bit as good as Chinon itself.
Important AOPs for Cabernet Franc
Chinon AOP: In the westernmost sector of Touraine, Chinon is the classic home of
varietal Cabernet Franc in the Loire Valley. Modern examples can be ripe, dense and
fruity, but traditional examples often have a bitter, earthy, green component—a style that
can be off-putting for guests reared on New World reds but essential for fans of classic
French country wines. Chinon is a great bistro wine, and is commonly featured alongside
pork and rabbit rillettes, or bavette (flank steak) and potatoes.
7. Pinot Noir grows in the Central Vineyards and eastern Touraine. Varietal Pinot Noir
wines from the Loire Valley offer a real alternative to Burgundy, as the general
quality has greatly improved in recent years. The red and rosé wines of Sancerre and
the neighboring Menetou-Salon AOP are produced from Pinot Noir.
Pinot Noir
Although Gamay does not often feature as a varietal wine in the Loire, the region is
second only to Beaujolais in plantings. Gamay is typically used as a component of
red or rosé blends. The Pinot Noir-Gamay blends of Cheverny AOP are particularly
noteworthy.
Gamay
While the abovementioned grapes constitute much of the Loire vineyard, they are by
no means the whole story. Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Gris, and Malbec
(known as “Cot” in France) join the lesser-known Pineau d’Aunis, Meunier, Grolleau,
Romorantin, Gros Plant, Négrette, Orbois (Arbois), and more to complete the Loire’s
range of varieties. When coupled with a great number of individual AOP zones, the
Loire Valley’s tremendous winegrowing diversity is further enriched.
Other Grapes of the Loire
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Loire wines present an opportunity for discovery for all but the most wine-savvy diners. Bordeaux and
Burgundy fans can remain in a realm of familiar grapes (Cabernet Franc and Pinot Noir) while explor-
ing new regions (Chinon and Sancerre), and the popularity of Sauvignon Blanc makes the white wines
of Sancerre an easy sell. These are wines that pivot on the traits of energy and freshness, and will
appeal to guests who value acidity and a lighter approach. In general, the wines of the Loire Valley
should be easy sales for bistros and other restaurants focusing on classic French country food.
The Loire’s sparkling wines provide an inexpensive alternative to Champagne. Sparkling Vouvray, with
its earthy and woolen Chenin Blanc character, will appeal primarily to fans of the grape, but Crémant
de Loire AOP—a sparkling wine crafted in the traditional method of Champagne—is a great choice
for guests celebrating on a budget. Still rosés from Sancerre and Anjou make easy spring- and sum-
mertime sales. Anjou rosé, unlike Sancerre, usually offers subtle sweetness, and may be labeled as
Rose d’Anjou AOP, Cabernet d’Anjou AOP, or Cabernet de Saumur AOP. Finally, Chenin Blanc des-
sert wines can clinch a hand-sale when paired with foie gras, fall fruit desserts featuring apple and
quince, or a bit of blue cheese. Guests for whom familiarity with French dessert wines does not
extend beyond Sauternes may be enthusiastically impressed by a good glass of Quarts de Chaume.
1. What are the white and red grapes of Sancerre AOP?
2. Name two appellations that produce sweet Chenin Blanc wines.
3. What does “demi-sec” indicate on a bottle of Vouvray?
4. What is the red grape of Chinon AOP?
5. The Muscadet AOP is located in which of the Loire Valley’s four main regions?
6. What does “sur lie” indicate on a bottle of Muscadet Sèvre-et-Maine?
Selling Loire Wines
Review questions
