PROBLEM SOLVING

1. Problem Solving
Charlotte Oliver

2. Practical and Technical Problems
Equipment
Camera Light
Tri-Pod
Video/Photo
Camera Bag
Camera
Shot-gun
Microphone
Wireless
Microphone
Headphones
Extra Batteries
Flash Memory
Cards
External Hard Drive

3. Lighting
• Aperture are the set of blades within the lens that let light onto the image sensor. Light is
measured by f-stops in photography. Remember what we learned when we first learned
manual settings? The larger the hole (which allows more light in and onto the sensor) the
lower the aperture. The smaller the hole (which lets less light onto the sensor), the higher
the aperture. You might also remember some or all of your f-stops on the f-stop scale. Full
stops start at 1 and 1.4 and they double (with some numbers rounded off) to get the next
stop and continue to double all the way up to f/22 or higher.
• Shutter speed is also relevant and represents stops of light, except when shooting with
strobes. The shutter is the little curtain that rolls over the image sensor and adjusting the
shutter speed controls how quickly the rear curtain closes behind it. The number is the
duration of how long the light is hitting the image sensor before the curtain closes. The
slower the shutter speed the more light that is gathered. Full stops for shutter speed are kind
of like stops for aperture in that they start at 1 (second) and double or divide in half (with
some numbers rounded off) up to 1/1000th of a second or more.

4. Understanding Ratio’s
When measuring for lighting ratios, it’s important to note that the f-stops are related to
metering purposes only and not the settings you set your camera at for proper exposure.
For each of the comparison lighting ratio examples below of the gentleman in the dark blue
shirt, I used a key light and a fill light; and the same camera settings of ISO 100, f/9 at 1/160
of a second.
1:1 Ratio
As we previously discussed, a 1:1 ratio is when a subject is evenly lit on both sides,
producing pretty much very little to no shadows and resulting in flat lighting. This is the
result of the same amount of light hitting your subject through your key light and fill light.
This type of lighting works fine for beauty and some fashion image where the subject is
meant to look completely flawless (no wrinkles or pores…)
A 2:1 ratio means you have a one stop difference from light to shadow.
This type of lighting ratio works well when photographing children and babies as the light is
just even enough to throw in a little bit of dimension, but just soft enough in shadow
transition to preserve the feeling of purity and innocence.
Light Meter. I use an old Sonic L-358 Flash Master Light Meter which are no longer
manufactured, however, the newer Sonic Lite Master Pro L-478D is a much better, more
current alternative.

5. Experiment 1
To my first experiment I looked for an
image that I could apply for a cooking
magazine, for this I searched on Google
images for a ‘rainbow cake’ and clicked
‘tools’ for the size and selected large, I
did this to ensure that when I placed the
image on Photoshop I would have
enough white space to place taglines,
headlines, and other codes and
conventions necessary for a front cover.
I opened a new Photoshop document
and placed the sizing as ‘A4 universal’.
So that my sizes were accurate to
existing magazine front covers. Once I
did this I copy and paste the image on to
a background on layer 1 on Photoshop.
Once I had found my main image. I
wanted a background that would be
suitable to match the colour schemes,
within the main image. On the layer
with ‘Background’ I selected the
‘gradient overlay’ and changed the
colours of it from white and baby blue
to compliment the colours through out
the main image.
I also did this so it would add more
depth to my front cover so that the
audience don’t get bored when
viewing my front cover

6. Experiment 2
• Once I had placed my main image on my Adobe Photoshop
document. I decided to blur the background I used the ‘surface
blur’ to create a marble wall effect so that cake does not look out
of place and more like a kitchen counter top. This is quick and easy,
but softens all edges by the same amount. It's also rather difficult
to tell what the modified selection now actually looks like. All I saw
is the line of "marching ants" encompassing the area containing
pixels at least fifty percent selected. If then apply a filter or make
an adjustment using the resulting selection, when areas you
expected to change don't fully while areas you assumed were
outside the selection and thus safe end up getting modified.
• I didn’t do to much manipulation of the main image because photo
manipulation has changed the advertisement industry and the way
we view ourselves. It has twisted the perception of the human
body to something unrealistic. It has allowed photographs to be
manipulated to the perfect contrast, lighting, and formats but it has
also allowed manipulated photographs to influence some people to
think poorly of their appearance which ends up lowering their self-
esteem. The more celebrities and others who get involved in
promoting the awareness of the problems caused by photo
manipulation, the more likely the advertising industry will have to
permanently change the way they edit their photos and force them
to change how they promote products, fashion, and “beauty”.
Which is something I want apply to my own work when making a
front cover and DPS.
• I also used Dafont.com to find a font suitable for a cooking
magazine front cover.
• I picked ‘Olivia’ as I felt it was eye catching yet does not distract
from the main image. I used the ‘colour selection tool’ to grab the
colours from my main image to fill the font. I of course rasterise and
duplicated the layer so I could colour the title.

7. Experiment 1
• For the taglines within my front cover I added a new layer for
each section of text using the ‘T’ tool. I ensured that they were
different colours to stand out on the front cover so that the
audience does not find it boring or mundane. I made sure the
text colour matched the colours within the cake to create
continuity.
• I also used Guides and the grid help you position images or
elements precisely. Guides appear as nonprinting lines that float
over the image. You can move and remove guides. You can
also lock them so that you don’t move them by accident. I did
this by ‘Choose View > Show > Guides.’
• I also made polaroid images on the bottom of the page as I feel it
made the front cover more professional. I did this by File > New
(set width: 800, height: 600, transparent background as an
example) > OK
- Drag image to the new window
- Use the rectangle tool to draw out a Polaroid frame
- I renamed my image from layer1 to Test photo and the
rectangle from Shape1 to Frame to avoid confusion
- After I drew the rectangle. To avoid that, drag 'Test photo' on
top of 'Frame' under Layer panel at the bottom right corner.

8. Experiment 1
Once I had added all the main images, polaroid images and of course all the fonts. I decided to add
other things that make keep to codes and conventions of a front cover, I added a bar code, a date of
issue and the price on the cover. I did this to make my cover look like an existing product, like good food
magazine.
The other two images are the layers I used throughout my production, as shown I merged, duplicated
and added ‘drop shadows’ on many of the images and texts.
I used only 8 layers to create this front cover.
In reflection I could have used up more white space within my cover to make it look more sophisticated,
and fuller, similar to other existing products.

9. Experiment 2
• To create my double page spread I used Adobe InDesign. I firstly
set up the sizes of the DPS. I did this by using these following
steps; I either of the following actions: To create a document,
choose File > New Document. To edit an existing document,
choose File > Document Setup.
• For Start Page #, specify an even number, such as 2, and then
click OK.
• This was important to set the size correct so that my portions
are correct. I added layers on for every new thing I did.
• The second thing I did was look for food that I felt suited my
Easter food theme. This was important to do to add contingency
between my front cover and my double page spread. I also
picked these images from google images and Pinterest.
• I put these images on Photoshop and used to ‘Lasso Tool’ to cut
round the images to make sure they look as if I took them
myself. Once I had finished I saved them a JSP on Photoshop.
After that I went back to InDesign and ‘Imported’ on to my
InDesign document. Once I had done that I move clicked Cntrl-T
to move and adjust my images to where I wanted them. I kept
the guides to ensure my images fitted.

10. Experiment 2
• Once I added my manipulated images I went on to add
mini titles in the font “Italian Breakfast” I choose this
font because I felt it was fitting for my Easter special. It
was also was a font I associated with food. I got all my
font from Dafont.com, I clicked ‘Download’ then went
to ‘run’ on my computer and typed
‘k:regfontInstallFont64.bat’ and placed in my own
font file in my K-drive. Once I had done this I drew text
boxes on a new layer with the tool ‘T’. I used the
Loren-Ipsum to fill my text box, I struggled with making
my text look like columns you would see in a
magazine. To over come this I research on how to get
over it. I used these four steps;
• 1. Add columns to a new document. You can change
the number of columns in a new document to make
working on it easier. ...
• 2. Use InDesign to add columns to an existing
document. ...
• 3. Create a new column using overset text. ...
• 4. Change columns in master or spread pages.
• This gave my work an overall smarter looking double
page spread. And is something I will apply to my own
product when I create it.

11. Experiment 3
• In my third experiment I wanted to explore more technical element of
my FMP. To do this I wanted to expand my knowledge and skills on
using a camera and photography and developing my Photoshop skills. I
did this by researching on how to use a Canon 700D camera I developed
a step by step way in which on how to use it; Step 1: Pick up your
Camera and Start the Timer Step 2: Turn the Mode dial to point to M
which means Manual Mode Step 3: Point the Camera where you find
good light Step 4: Check the Important Camera Settings Step 5: Check
the Camera Metering indicator Step 6: Press the Shutter button Step 7:
Achieving the Proper Exposure Press the dips button again to get back
to the settings on the LCD screen. I found this to be very helpful on
making my images more professional looking and similar to existing
products such as vogue or cosmopolitan. After taking my images I
uploaded them to Adobe Photoshop. I asked my tutor on ways in which
I could airbrush my images in a subtle way as this is something often
done in beauty magazines. I observed and copied down the following
steps and tools to edit my images; 1. Duplicate the background layer 2.
Pressed filter, blur, then surface blur. 3.Options for ‘radius’ and
‘threshold’. 4. eraser tool, delete everything that is not skin related
(eyes, hair, mouth etc.) 5. Duplicate the background layer again (then
hide surface blur layer). 6. Background layer copy 2, I used the brush
tool (soft as possible) Opacity at 40% flow at 40%. 7. Hold Alt to bring
the eyedropper tool, to pick out a better colour/skin tone. 8. Brushing in
areas needed (under eyes, uneven skin tone). 9. Drop opacity for
surface blur layer to 20%. 10. Drop opacity for surface blur later to 20%.
11. Make new layer, take a white paint brush and paint inside the eyes
to create a more editorial look to suit the codes and conventions of a
beauty magazine.
• I found that all these things done in my experiment 3 helped me
develop my skills for my FMP, that I didn’t necessarily have beforehand.

12. Experiment 3
• For my final image I wanted to make sure I included both a model and a
cosmetic product, this was important for me to do as I felt that it was
something I would include in my own FMP as it is essential to showcase the
product more than the model and this was something I struggled with when
first taking my images. To help me with this I researched how to take photos
with both cosmetics and a model I came up with the following steps; To
know the difference between an optical zoom and a digital zoom! A “digital
zoom” is really a “fake zoom” and can reduce the clarity of my photos. Try to
avoid it for makeup shots.
• If I emailed a photo, I attached the original photo to my email. I didn't just
copy/paste the image into my email: as this greatly reduces the quality and
clarity of the shot.
• Same goes with uploading a photo: upload the original file—I didn't paste
the image into a word editing software first.
• Once I had taken the pictures, I reviewed them on my camera right away. I
zoomed in as far as I could to ensure my images aren’t blurry. If they weren't
crystal clear, I took some more shots.
• Once I had uploaded my images on to Photoshop I wanted to edit them
accordingly, I did this by; 1. Duplicate the background layer 2. Pressed filter,
blur, then surface blur. 3.Options for ‘radius’ and ‘threshold’. 4. eraser tool,
delete everything that is not skin related (eyes, hair, mouth etc.) 5. Duplicate
the background layer again (then hide surface blur layer). 6. Background
layer copy 2, I used the brush tool (soft as possible) Opacity at 40% flow at
40%. 7. Hold Alt to bring the eyedropper tool, to pick out a better colour/skin
tone. 8. Brushing in areas needed (under eyes, uneven skin tone). 9. Drop
opacity for surface blur layer to 20%. 10. Drop opacity for surface blur later to
20%. 11. Make new layer, take a white paint brush and paint inside the eyes
to create a more editorial look to suit the codes and conventions of a beauty
magazine.

13. Experiment 3
• In my final experiment I wanted to ensure that I had not only
used a camera and photographed models, I wanted to make
sure I had taken photos of cosmetic products, which would
be essential for my FMP as my actual production is based on
makeup and cosmetics. Before I took these images I made
sure I researched some tips on how to photograph cosmetics
and came up with the following steps; The one mistake I
made when I first got my camera and started taking pictures
was thinking that the object I was shooting needed to be in
direct sunlight in order to get a good photo. Sometimes it’s
more flattering to have light coming in from one side or the
other and sometimes it’s more flattering to have your
subject facing the light source. And remember, natural light
is best. Secondly I looked for angles I didn't just sit there and
take photos of your subject from one point of view, move
around, and take pictures from every angle possible these
are just some of the things I found to help me take more
professional/effective images. Once I had put my images up
on Adobe Photoshop, I realised that my images had a lot of
shadows behind the product, to reduce the shadows I
adjusted the brightness and contrast among my images to
ensure that the shadow had gone and a overall brighter
image. However I noticed that my product looked slightly
warped. So that is something I will try to improve when I do
my actual product for my FMP.

14. Reflection
• What elements of your experiments will you include in your final product?
• Within my final production I hope to include many aspects from my experiment. I found that making numerous experiments helped me
develop my ideas further for my FMP. There is also things I will not include in my production, due to the fact that I feel it didn't’t help or
improve my experiments.
• Fonts/colours- In my first experiment I liked using Dafont.com because I find they have a wide range of font and different styles
applicable to different genres of magazine or print product. I also enjoy the fact I can add my own spin to the fonts, similar to what I did
on my ‘Foodie’ front cover. I used the ’Eyedrop’ tool to select the colours from my main image and applied it to the font to add a pop of
colour and contingency from my front cover and double page spread, I also find that having a colour scheme that is perfect for
whatever genre I do, is very important for making a piece go from average to professional, I find it is important to attract the target
audience by researching colour schemes in similar existing products to attract the right audience, this is something I'm very keen to
apply to my own production.
• Images-For my FMP I hope to include my own images that I have taken in different environments, this could be in the college studio or
in another place. The reason for this is that I can take them how I wish with different lighting or different cosmetics/props. However
using a stock image similar to the one I did in experiment 2 did make my process easier and left more time for editing and photo
manipulation on Adobe Photoshop, so I will hope to use my own individual images and occasional use stock images. And of course it is
important to get the right kind of imagery to attract the target audience I had set out in the first place. So when I take my images for my
final product I want to ensure that they are perfect for what I want. I also liked in my experiments I took photos of different types of
model/prop. In my final experiment I wanted to ensure that I had not only used a camera and photographed models, I wanted to make
sure I had taken photos of cosmetic products, which would be essential for my FMP as my actual production is based on makeup and
cosmetics. Before I took these images I made sure I researched some tips on how to photograph cosmetics and came up with the
following steps which I stated in my in one the previous slides.
• Photoshop and InDesign- For my FMP I want utilise both software's, as I feel they were crucial for making my work more polished and
professional. And it is strongly advised by my tutors and is a software I am personally used to. I also find that the many of the tools
within both software's I have not used and I'm excited to use in my FMP to I can extend my knowledge even further for future products
past my FMP. However the tools I did use on my experiments I became very comfortable with for example the use of airbrushing tools
which I used on experiments 3,4,5 . Airbrushing was something I had never done before those experiments so using these skills were
essential for making my FMP as technically difficult as possible.
• Overall the tools I used throughout my numerous experiments I found that many of the tools I used helped me develop my skills in
photography, Photoshop, InDesign, fonts and of course colour schemes. All of these things will help me make my final major project as
technically difficult as possible and something I might enjoy doing and hopefully achieve a good grade.

15. Practical Problems
Problem Effect On Work Solution
Power-Cut I would not be able to take my
photoshoot further
Perhaps moving the shoot into a
different place.
Loss of SD card I would lose all my images therefore I
would behind on schedule and be left to
scramble images.
Ensure I backup all my images straight
away on my hard drive so I have all my
work together.
Model absence and illness I would have to change model or behind
on my work.
Make sure I have a backup model for my
photoshoot.
Camera Dies Not being able to take images on time
and to schedule.
Make sure I have a backup camera and
charger
Files being corrupted Loosing my work. Ensuring I save all my work in multiple
places.
No computers being available. Delaying editing of my work there for
creating timing difficulties for my work
Reserve my computer spaces in advance,

16. Resources
Equipment/Props/Costume Needed Locations Needed
Makeup
(Fenty beauty, Rimmel, Chanel) etc
York college studio
Shot-gun Microphone Outside/brickwall
External Hard Drive At home
Wireless Microphone “
Video/Photo Camera Bag “