![7/2/2018 “Icons of Style” at the Getty Presents Fashion Photography as an Art - Vogue
https://www.vogue.com/article/icons-of-style-fashion-photography-show-getty 2/7
Hiro, Black Evening Gown in Flight, New York, negative 1963; print 1994
Photo: © Hiro / The J. Paul Getty Museum
has traditionally been women—have been seen as demerits, thus the genre is underrepresented in many collections, the Getty’s be
an exception.
As “Icons of Style” ably demonstrates, fashion photography is undeniably an art. It’s one that permeates our everyday lives and
sharpens our vision, it comments on sociopolitical issues, and it has had a trickle-up effect on the fine arts. Included in the show
Hiro’s Black Evening Dress in Flight, New York. Shot from above, it captures a woman walking with billowing black “wings” of
fabric flowing behind her. Who would have guessed the photographer’s assignment was to shoot a shoe? “Hiro wasn’t too happy
about it,” Martineau explains. “He thought that that would make for a very boring picture, so he came up with something much m
interesting. He studied with Alexey Brodovitch [famed art director and mentor to Irving Penn] and he was told: ‘If you look throu
the viewfinder and you don’t see something you’ve never seen before, don’t bother to click the shutter.’ ”
The most recent pieces exhibited intentionally represent the work of influential mid-career photographers (about whom Condé N
Corporate Photography Director Ivan Shaw contributed an essay for the catalog) rather than future stars. “Part of the reason why
didn’t want to go past 2011 is because I think the younger people who are working now don’t feel the same connection to this hi
and they aren’t working in the same ways,” explains Martineau. “They don’t really want to be called fashion photographers, they
to be called image-makers or something else; it’s much more fluid and that’s definitely the result of the Internet and fashion blogg
Martineau’s survey covers the years 1911 through 2011 and its reach is long, including the work of 160 photographers, many of th
contributors to Vogue, including Baron Adolf de Meyer, the magazine’s first staff photographer and subject of a recent one-man s
at the Met. But not all the talents have marquee names. “A goal of mine,” says Martineau, “was to include great fashion
photographers who haven’t been celebrated or aren’t well-known to the general public.” Among the curator’s “finds” are Kourken
Pakchanian, a Vogue contributor whose photos captured the breezy confidence of the 1970s American woman; Neal Barr, known
photographing vintage fashions; the Chicago-based Victor Skrebneski; Willy Maywald, a German who became the main photogra
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Fashion photography gets its due in a new show
- 1. 7/2/2018 “Icons of Style” at the Getty Presents Fashion Photography as an Art - Vogue https://www.vogue.com/article/icons-of-style-fashion-photography-show-getty 1/7 JUNE 25, 2018 11:10 PM by LAIRD BORRELLI-PERSSON RUNWAY Fashion Photography Gets Its Due in a New Show, “Icons of Style,” at the Getty 1 / 11 “Icons of Style: A Century of Fashion Photography” George Hoyningen-Huene, Bathing Suits by Izod, Paris, 1930 Photo: © Horst, Richard and Allison Roeder / Courtesy The J. Paul Getty Museum Bucking the trend for crowd-drawing monographic photography shows is “Icons of Style: A Century of Fashion Photography,” at J. Paul Getty Trust. It’s been more than 40 years since such a survey was mounted in the USA. Why the gap? By way of explanatio curator Paul Martineau quotes Richard Avedon, who said: “Fashion is the f-word, the dirtiest word in the eyes of the art world.” Fashion might like to court art (see Dior x KAWS, Louis Vuitton x Jeff Koons), but in the rarefied world of museums (which, to b fair, have limited acquisition funds), the commercial aspects of fashion photography—and perhaps the fact that their main audien ga f t i u f mememememememe Privacy/Cookie Policy & User Agreement Our Privacy Policy and User Agreement have changed. By using or registering on any portion of this site, you agree to our updated User Agreement and Privacy Policy and Cookie Statement.
- 2. 7/2/2018 “Icons of Style” at the Getty Presents Fashion Photography as an Art - Vogue https://www.vogue.com/article/icons-of-style-fashion-photography-show-getty 2/7 Hiro, Black Evening Gown in Flight, New York, negative 1963; print 1994 Photo: © Hiro / The J. Paul Getty Museum has traditionally been women—have been seen as demerits, thus the genre is underrepresented in many collections, the Getty’s be an exception. As “Icons of Style” ably demonstrates, fashion photography is undeniably an art. It’s one that permeates our everyday lives and sharpens our vision, it comments on sociopolitical issues, and it has had a trickle-up effect on the fine arts. Included in the show Hiro’s Black Evening Dress in Flight, New York. Shot from above, it captures a woman walking with billowing black “wings” of fabric flowing behind her. Who would have guessed the photographer’s assignment was to shoot a shoe? “Hiro wasn’t too happy about it,” Martineau explains. “He thought that that would make for a very boring picture, so he came up with something much m interesting. He studied with Alexey Brodovitch [famed art director and mentor to Irving Penn] and he was told: ‘If you look throu the viewfinder and you don’t see something you’ve never seen before, don’t bother to click the shutter.’ ” The most recent pieces exhibited intentionally represent the work of influential mid-career photographers (about whom Condé N Corporate Photography Director Ivan Shaw contributed an essay for the catalog) rather than future stars. “Part of the reason why didn’t want to go past 2011 is because I think the younger people who are working now don’t feel the same connection to this hi and they aren’t working in the same ways,” explains Martineau. “They don’t really want to be called fashion photographers, they to be called image-makers or something else; it’s much more fluid and that’s definitely the result of the Internet and fashion blogg Martineau’s survey covers the years 1911 through 2011 and its reach is long, including the work of 160 photographers, many of th contributors to Vogue, including Baron Adolf de Meyer, the magazine’s first staff photographer and subject of a recent one-man s at the Met. But not all the talents have marquee names. “A goal of mine,” says Martineau, “was to include great fashion photographers who haven’t been celebrated or aren’t well-known to the general public.” Among the curator’s “finds” are Kourken Pakchanian, a Vogue contributor whose photos captured the breezy confidence of the 1970s American woman; Neal Barr, known photographing vintage fashions; the Chicago-based Victor Skrebneski; Willy Maywald, a German who became the main photogra f mememememememe
- 3. 7/2/2018 “Icons of Style” at the Getty Presents Fashion Photography as an Art - Vogue https://www.vogue.com/article/icons-of-style-fashion-photography-show-getty 3/7 for the house of Dior; and Martha “Matsy” Wynn Richards, who, the curator notes, “worked for Vogue in 1923 and is one of the female fashion photographers that I know of.” One happy, direct result of the Getty’s casting a large net is that some of the lesser known artists have recently been snapped up by galleries. RELATED VIDEO Watch: These 9 Songstresses Are the Ultimate Witchy Style Icons mememememememe
- 4. 7/2/2018 “Icons of Style” at the Getty Presents Fashion Photography as an Art - Vogue https://www.vogue.com/article/icons-of-style-fashion-photography-show-getty 4/7 In This Story: EXHIBITIONS, PHOTOGRAPHY WATCH Watch Kylie Jenner Do Her Lip Liner With Her Eyes Closed—and More MOST POPULAR VIDEOS 1 / 27 Watch Kylie Jenner Do Her Lip Liner With He... Watch Kendall Jenner Ask Herself Some Exist... Watch Serena Williams Absolutely Tear Up an... Why Issa Rae Hates Clubs, Loves Staying In ... Meryl Streep Talks to Anna Wintour About He... Pharrell Reveals His Throwback Style Secret... f SHARE t TWEET mememememememe
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- 6. 7/2/2018 “Icons of Style” at the Getty Presents Fashion Photography as an Art - Vogue https://www.vogue.com/article/icons-of-style-fashion-photography-show-getty 6/7 Wimbledon 2018: How to Watch, When to Watch, and Who's Playing WIMBLEDON mememememememe
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