1. Travel
April 2016/Fairlady 2726 Fairlady/April 2016
By Daniella Renzon
beach
TheWith spectacular beaches at every
turn, adventure on your doorstep
and exotic culture and cuisine,
the beautiful Thai islands of Koh
Samui and Koh Tao are idyllic for
families wanting to decompress
from fast-paced city living.
‘‘I ate banana French toast
with homemade apricot
compote while watching
shop owners open their
stalls and offer incense and
prayers at their shrines.’’
Breakfast is served in
the Drinks Gallery
Chaweng Beach at dusk
Travel
2. Travel
April 2016/Fairlady 2928 Fairlady/April 2016
y view to the left of the peninsula
stretched out to another tiny island
jutting out of the sea, which I
imagined I could kayak or swim to.
Maybe I could have. I never got that
far. Too mesmerised by The Red Pool,
the ocean and the fresh coconut
I was sipping.
Then there were the sunsets like
impressionist paintings, the happy hol-
iday-makers, locals carrying monkeys
and bearded dragons like accessories
for tourists to hold and photograph,
beach vendors selling anything from
lilos and sarongs to jewellery and
fireworks, and braaied mielies, or freshly cut mango and pineapple. By night
some sections of the beach were transformed into magical fairgrounds dotted
with fire dancers and lanterns. But I could just watch these comings and
goings from the quiet of The Red Pool. Or from the comfy beach beanbag
with a pick of cocktails, delectable local cuisine and unputdownable books.
Welcome to Thailand. And, of course, The Library.
While the islands cater to every traveller’s budget (and many
of the cheapest bungalows are situated on the most spectacu-
lar beaches), if you can splurge – even for just a night – The
Library (www.thelibrary.co.th) is an unforgettable experience.
A secluded haven in the heart of Koh Samui’s renowned
Chaweng Beach, it offers guests the option of some serious
five-star R&R, or Chaweng’s buzz of activity. Whether it’s the
influence of the minimalist Eastern design or the world-class
service or both, life becomes so much simpler… the mad rush
of Jozi is quickly forgotten.
True to its name, the hotel boasts an incredible library of
books and DVDs. The double escape of locale as well as books
and movies was perfect for me. If I wasn’t swimming and
exploring, I was lost in a book. My husband and kids gravitated
to the left of the beach where you could parasail, jet-ski, jet-
board, jet-pack, paddle board and rent surfboards. I joined in
on the surfing and paddle-boarding.
A southeast Asia aficionado had instructed us, ‘Day one:
buy a lilo. Get a vodka bucket. Sip and float.’ She obviously
doesn’t have kids. We bought two lilos which were immediately
commandeered by them. Instead, we discovered The Long
Beach Lodge Massage Hut, one of many beach or street mas-
sage parlours open late into the night. You’re treated not only
to the best massage of your life, but to the best spent R115,32
(traditional Thai massage for THB250 an hour). They offer
body scrubs, traditional or oil massages, foot and head massages,
facials, manicures, pedicures and hair braiding.
And then there’s the food. Venture onto your beach or street
and pick and choose restaurants – each
better than the next. The infusion of fresh
ginger, lemongrass, chilli and coconut
awakens your taste buds. If you want the
luxury version, The Library’s excellent The
Page restaurant overlooks the beach, and
is the perfect setting for a romantic dinner.
The Library also offers beach breakfast
picnics or you can sit in the restaurant facing
the main road. I ate banana French toast
with homemade apricot compote while
watching shop owners open their stalls and
offer incense and prayers at their shrines. My
son packed a Dagwood-sized sandwich each
morning to feed the stray pups in the area.
It was hard to finally bid The Red Pool
farewell… but Turtle Island was calling.
On a shoestring budget? Try the very clean
facilities and great vibe of Paprika Hostel
in Chaweng from THB250/R115,32 to
M
OTHER KOH
SAMUI STAYS
‘‘I could just watch these comings and
goings from The Red Pool.’’
BELOW: Daniella
about to order
breakfast in the
Drinks Gallery
The minimalist white interior of the
library boasts spectacular views of
the sea and The Red Pool
The Red Pool was named one
of the world’s most spectacular
hotel pools by TripAdvisor. With
its mosaic tiles of orange, yellow
and deep red, the pool presents
a dazzling spectacle of brilliant
colour and sophisticated style
Travel
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April 2016/Fairlady 3130 Fairlady/April 2016
• Go now while the going’s good:
the Thai Bhat is one of the few
currencies still weaker than the
rand (exchange rate is 0,46). And
it takes many cocktails to ease the
pain of watching our currency slide.
• To book a family room, call the
hotel directly. Online sites give two
rooms, doubling the cost.
• Avoid drinking the water. Many
people avoid fresh fruit or vegeta-
bles if they haven’t peeled it them-
selves. We didn’t, and we were fine.
• If flights to Koh Samui are too
expensive, fly to the mainland and
catch a ferry.
• About 95% of Thais are Buddhist.
Embrace their cuisine and culture,
and visit their temples too. For
South African children it’s an
incredible, eye-opening adventure.
• Thailand is a constitutional
monarchy governed by a military
junta. They take crime and any
involvement in drugs very seriously.
Don’t do anything to land yourself
in trouble.
• There’s a hospital in Koh Samui
but no medical facilities on Koh Tao,
so pack a full medical kit.
• No animal-lover can resist the
strays, but be warned there are
cases of rabies.
• Pack lightly – you can find
everything at the markets.
GOOD TO
KNOW
THB700/R322,90, season dependent. The Paprika
Restaurant is always abuzz and serves the best falafel
and hummus outside the Middle East. Their diverse
menu has Middle Eastern, Thai and Italian delights.
Chat to co-owner and travel agent Shlomy Biton to plan
day trips. Or contact him beforehand for help with
your whole trip on +66923218830, paprikatravel@gmail.
com or Shlomyb30@gmail.com.
For incredible four-star experiences on
different beaches try:
• The Chaweng Garden Beach Resort
www.chawenggarden.com
• Samui Honey Cottages on
Cheong Mon www.samuihoney.com
• The Moon Hut Bungalows on Mae
Nam www.moonhutsamui.com
• Hire a Vespa or jeep to explore the
island or book a day trip through local
travel agents or hotels.
• Look up at the 12-metre-tall golden
Big Buddha that sits majestically on
a rocky outcrop overlooking the bay at
Wat Phra Yai. He’s in the Mara pose, representing
steadfastness, purity and enlightenment.
• Offer prayers, light incense and candles and feed the
temple fish, frogs and chickens at Wat Plai Laem,
a Buddhist temple. The gigantic 18-armed main statue
is Guayin, goddess of compassion and mercy. Adjacent
to her towers a White Laughing Buddha.
• Visit the quieter, picturesque beaches of Lamai,
Mae Nam, Bophut and Taling. We loved Choeng
Mon Beach, especially the restaurant at end of the
bay where you can dig your
toes into the sand, listen to
Bob Marley and sip a local
Singha beer.
• Pose for a pic with Hin Ta
& Hin Yai, two rocks called
‘Grandfather and Grand-
mother Rock’ that look like
male and female genitalia
– they’re a popular tourist
attraction.
• The waterfalls, jungles,
limestone mountains and
SIGHTSEEING
ON KOH SAMUI
hidden coves of Angthong National Marine Park are
pristine. Go on a snorkelling day trip by traditional
longboat, speedboat, yacht or catamaran.
• Koh Pha Ngan, renowned for its full-moon beach
parties, has many other faces too: discover fishing
villages, picturesque beaches and yoga retreats.
• For exciting nightlife, Chaweng is the place… fire
dancers, bars and restaurants on the beach, tattoo and
massage parlours, bars, markets and shops on the streets.
• Watch Muay Thai Boxing at The Samui Stadium in
Laemdim Road, which hosts fights until midnight.
• Don’t go elephant trekking near the Na Muang
Waterfalls – the way the elephants are ‘broken in’ is
extremely cruel. Rather visit the inspiring Elephant
Nature Park (www.elephantnaturepark.org ) sanctuary
up north in the beautiful jungle of Chiang Mei.
The stunning coral reefs of Koh Tao, the Turtle Island,
draw thousands of divers and snorkellers. Elusive whale
sharks make rare appearances for divers, but even if
you’re wading knee-deep, you’ll spot turtles, spotted-eagle
rays and tropical fish. We hired a traditional longboat to
visit the best snorkelling spots, ending at the majestic Koh
Nang Yuan Marine Park, rated one of the most beautiful
islands in the world. Sleep over in little villas:
www.nangyuan.com.
The other place to stay is Haad Tien (www.haadtien.
com) – and the setting of this hotel is breathtaking. I felt
peace settle over me, and the scene in every direction
filled me with awe. At times I’d wake at 3am to sit on the
balcony reading my book, listening to the sea and the
bustling jungle, spellbound by the view and the solitude.
Luxury castaway bungalows situated on the beach or
nestled near the black pool under the palm trees share
facilities with the wonderful and more budget-friendly
Haad Tien Beach Club (+6677310611).
We scuba-dived and snorkelled. After an active day,
Haad Tien’s beach bar is the spot to sip cocktails,
catch the sunset and take a dip in the warm pool.
Our favourite excursion took us to a tiny bay on
Sri Nuan Beach. Here, the Sai Thong Resort – which
can only be accessed by boat – hides travellers in rustic
huts on stilts. A little swing strung between two palm trees
hangs over the wave’s edge. To stay at this extremely
budget-friendly spot, email info@saithong-resort.com or
call +6677456868. ✤
TURTLE ISLAND
– A MUST!
ABOVE: Feeding
the stray pups on
Chaweng Beach
BELOW: Massages
on offer at The Long
Beach Lodge on
Chaweng Beach
ABOVE: Bungalows
nestled in the jungle
overlooking the Koh
Nang Yuan Marine Park.
ABOVE: Rustic
Sai Thong huts on
Sri Nuan Beach –
a castaway paradise
LEFT: Liam catching some
waves on Chaweng Beach
ABOVE: The boys snorkelling
in the emerald waters of Turtle
Bay, Koh Tao, just off the side of
a traditional longboat.
‘‘Elusive whale sharks make rare appearances for
divers, but even if you’re wading knee-deep, you’ll spot
turtles, spotted-eagle rays and tropical fish.’’
PHOTOGRAPHS:DANIELLARENZON;COURTESYOFTHELIBRARY