This document compares two methods of parameterizing wave orbital motion - Isobe & Horikawa (IH) and Ruessink et al. (RUE) - in long-term coastal morphology models spanning timescales from milliseconds to centuries. The IH method leads to overestimated sediment transport, excessive morphological diffusion, and a lack of channels and erosion of flats in model results. The RUE method produces hydrodynamics and sediment transport more consistent with field measurements, resulting in modelled morphology that more closely matches natural coastal systems with better-developed channels and less diffusive features. Overall, the RUE parameterization provides substantial improvements over IH for modelling long-term coastal evolution.
Similaire à DSD-INT 2018 From milliseconds to centuries: long-term coastal morphology modelled with a new wave orbital motion parameterization - Boechat Albernaz
Similaire à DSD-INT 2018 From milliseconds to centuries: long-term coastal morphology modelled with a new wave orbital motion parameterization - Boechat Albernaz (20)
DSD-INT 2018 From milliseconds to centuries: long-term coastal morphology modelled with a new wave orbital motion parameterization - Boechat Albernaz
1. Faculty of Geosciences
River and delta morphodynamics
From milliseconds to centuries: long-term
coastal morphology modelled with a new
wave orbital motion parameterization
Márcio Boechat Albernaz
PhD Candidate – m.boechatalbernaz@uu.nl
Gerben Ruessink
Dirk-Jan Walstra
Pieter Koen Tonnon
Bert Jagers
Maarten Kleinhans
7. Wave shape
Intra wave orbital velocities:
Shoaling zone
IH -> More Skewed
RUE -> Skewed
“Offshore”
IH -> Skewed
RUE -> Sin
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8. Wave shape
Intra wave orbital velocities:
Surf zone
IH -> Skewed
RUE -> As/Sk
Shoaling
IH -> Skewed
RUE -> Skewed
“Offshore”
IH -> Skewed
RUE -> Sin
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9. Sediment transport predictor
Van Rijn 2004/2007
■ Bed load
■ Suspended load
Critical Shields
+
Non-linear term
Non-linear
Skewed based transport
Uon & Uoff
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10. Model implementation
Implemented RUE into Delft3D source code
IH is the default parameterization
VR04 sediment transport (w/ intra wave)
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2DH model
50 – 12 m resolution
M2 tides
SWAN wave model
200-250 µm sand
10-100 yrs
10-50 morfac
14. Bed U Sus U
Total
ON
OFF
Cross-shore Sed. Transport
Yearly net transport
Default:
■ HIGH bed load [IH]
■ on/off unbalance
Calibration:
■ equal bed / sus
■ ON = OFF [total=0]
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4.6 x bed load
15% 72%
15% 20% ON
OFF
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Conclusions
Tidal IH – 20%
RUE - 80%
Inlet enlargement
Diffusive morphology
Lack of channels
Erosion of flats
26. Conclusions
“Same” transport -> [very] different [long-term] morphology
Isobe Horikawa (skewness only)
Higher XShore sediment transport – strong unbalance of transport modes
Over-calibration of transport magnitude (is it correct then?)
Decoupling of Xshore & Alongshore processes [Shoreline & Littoral drift]
Excessive morphological diffusion
Ruessink (skewness + asymmetry):
No need to over-calibrate transport due to correct hydrodynamic processes
Incision & Diffusion more balanced with nature and tidal (only) models
Overall morphology closer to observed in nature
Márcio Boechat Albernaz
PhD Candidate – m.boechatalbernaz@uu.nl
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