Two different systems are followed in wool processing, the woolen system, and the worsted system. In the woolen system, the fibers are carded and then spun It affects the processing efficiency as well as the quality of the product.This presentation has focused on wool spinning particularly woolen & worsted spinning process.

1. Ethiopian Institute of Textile and Fashion Technology
Bahir Dar University
“Woolen spinning Vs Worsted spinning”
Submitted to:
Dr. Sampath Rangaraj
December, 2017
Prepared by:
Desalegn Atalie

2. Contents

3. 1. Introduction
 The value of wool on the market
depends primarily on fineness and
length of fiber. Strength, elasticity,
amount of crimp, and uniformity are
also considered.
 Fiber properties influence both
productivity and quality in the
spinning process wool is used in
clothing, shirting, suiting, woolen
sweaters, blankets, upholsteries, felt,
horse rug, carpets & insulation.
 Two different systems are
followed in wool processing, the
woolen system and the worsted
system. In the woolen system, the
fibers are carded and then spun It
affects the processing efficiency
as well as the quality of the
product.
oThis presentation has focused on wool
spinning particularly woolen & worsted
spinning process.

4. 2. Objective
 To understand the wool spinning process
 Describe the comparison of Woollen &
worsted spinning method
Shearing Sheep Wool fiber

5. 3. Theory of wool spinning
 Spinning is the twisting together of
drawn out strands of fibers to form
yarn, and is a major part of the textile
industry. The yarn is then used to
create textiles, which are then used to
make clothing and many other
products.
 There are several industrial
processes available to spin yarn, as
well as hand spinning techniques
where the fiber is drawn out, twisted,
and wound onto a bobbin.
 Wool, common name applied to the
soft, curly fibers obtained chiefly from
the fleece of domesticated sheep, and
used extensively in textile
manufacturing.
The fleece of sheep raised for wool is
generally shorn once yearly, in the
spring or early summer.
 Wool is the dense, warm , soft, often
curly hair forming coat of sheep, also
called a fleece. Wool is readied by
washing (lanolin is the by-product),
carding, sometimes combing, then
spinning.

6. Conti.
Basically, there are two types of
wool yarns, each with it’s own
method of fiber preparation and
spinning techniques. They are:
1. Woolen spinning
2. Worsted spinning
oThe Woolen system is entirely
different from the other yarn forming
systems in regard to the types of yarns
produced. with a simplified flow system,
fewer manufacturing processes, and low
draft levels causing less fiber orientation,
a bulkier yarn is produced.
oThe fibers are not parallel when they
reach the spinning process, but are
crossed and intertwined. The fibers are
trapped in this position with the insertion
df twist, creating air pockets in the yarn,
and more fiber ends standing out on the
surface of the yarn. This increases the
volume per unit weight.
Worsted preparation involves combing the
long wool fibers several times over ensuring
they that all lie parallel to each other. These
combed fibers are Formed Into Long ‗ropes‘
Called tops. Worsted Spinning Keeps The
Fibers Parallel As They Are twisted into a
yarn by the spinning process.

7. Woolen and worsted spinning
Worsted Yarns
Woolen Yarns
Shearing

8. Shearing:-
Sheep are sheared once a year—
usually in the springtime. A
veteran shearer can shear up to
two hundred sheep per day. The
fleece recovered from a sheep can
weigh between 6 and 18 pounds
(2.7 and 8.1 kilograms).
Grading and sorting:-
Grading is the breaking up of the fleece based on overall
quality. In sorting, the wool is broken up into sections of
different quality fibers, from different parts of the body.
The best quality of wool comes from the shoulders and
sides of the sheep and is used for clothing; the lesser
quality comes from the lower legs and is used to make
rugs. In wool grading, high quality does not always mean
high durability.
1.Shearing
2.
Sorting
3.Grading

9. scouring involves the use of hot water and
detergents to remove soil, vegetable
impurities, grease and other contaminants
from fibers. Wool scouring typically uses
water and alkali, although scouring with an
organic solvent is also possible. Scouring
with alkali breaks down natural oils and
surfactants and suspends impurities in the
bath.
4. Scouring

10. 5. Drying 6.Oiling
Wool oiling is the removal of natural,
 preservative
 greasy mater or yolk
It is necessary to lubricate the fibres of wool
with oil before carding and spinning, in order
to preserve the serrations of the fiber from
injury during the card process.
Imperfect oiling results in gummed-up
cards, uneven work, and also in the
destruction to a greater or less extent of the
elasticity of resultant yarn.
After wool has been scoured, it is necessary to
dry it before passing it on to next process of
manufacturing, except when the wool is to be
dyed in the raw state.
The modern process of drying stock with
artificial heat, while accomplished with greater
speed, is liable if not carefully performed to
destroy the life of the wool & render it harsh.

11. 7. Carding
Operation is intended to disentangle
the fibers and lay them as parallel as
possible.
 The fibres are passed between rollers
covered with fine wire teeth. Since
worsted yarns should be smooth, the
fibers are made to lie as parallel as this
process will permit Functions of
Carding
 Opening of individual fibre
 Elimination of impurities & dust
 Removing of neps
 Fiber orientation
 Sliver formation

12. 8. Gilling
The gilling process removes the shorter
staple and straightens the longer fibers.
Gilling is carried out before (preparative
gilling) and after (finisher gilling) combing.
 The preparative gilling is mainly to align
the fibers in a parallel direction, further
blend the wool through doubling and to add
moisture and lubricants.
 Finisher gilling is mainly aimed to
remove the mild entanglement introduced
to the combed sliver.

13. 9. Combing 10.Drawing
The drawing out of fibre tops into the
thickness of one, to thoroughly blend
the wool and ensure evenness or
regularity of the resulting roving.
Removes the shorter fibers of 1 to 4
inch (25 – 100 mm) lengths (called
combing noils).
 Places the longer fibers (called tops)
as parallel as possible.
Further cleans the fibers by removing
any remaining loose impurities.
 Combing noils are futher used for
ordinary & less expensive fabrics and
tops (longer Fibres) for manufacturing
owrsted fabrics as gabardine, whip cord
& convey & produce fabrics with good
color ,feel and strength.

14. 11. Roving
Roving is actually a light twisting operation to hold the
thin slubbers intact.
The fiber passes between the roller, over the coarse
wire teeth of the first card clothing & over progressively
finer toothed card clothing.
The fibre that leaves the machine are in the form of
untwisted ropes called ―ROVING
The roving as it comes off the card has
no twist. It is held together by the oil and
natural hooks that exist on the surface of
the wool fibers.

15.  When the wooden bobbins are full of
yarn, they are placed on a cone winder and
the yarn is transferred to paper cones for
use in weaving and knitting machines. It
could also be put into skeins of yarn which
are the form that knitters like to use.
 The spinning frame will put the actual
twist on the roving and turn it into yarn.
 This is collected on wooden bobbins.
The frame we have is small but it can spin
up to 90 threads at one time.
12. Spinning
13.Winding or
Skeining

16. Spun from wool fibres of:
 Length : spun from short fibres of 1-3‖
 Diameter: medium or coarse
The fibres are washed, scoured and carded.
 Fine
 Smooth
 Even
 Tighter twist
 Higher tensile strength
Woolen Worsted
Spun from wool fibres of:
 Length : longer than 3‖
 Diameter: fine diameter
Fibres are washed, scoured, carded, combed and drawn
 Bulky
 Uneven
 Low to medium slack twist
 Tensile strength lower than worsted
Yarn
Process
 Insulator due to trapped air
 Does not hold a crease well
 Less durable than worsted
 Less insulator
 Holds creases and shape
 More durable than woollens
Characteristics

17. SUMMARY
 The wool, common name applied to the soft, curly fibers obtained chiefly from the fleece
of domesticated sheep, and used extensively in textile manufacturing.
 Basically, there are two types of wool yarns, each with it‘s own method of fiber preparation
and spinning techniques. They are: woolen spinning & worsted spinning.
The main difference of woolen and worsted spinning is, carding and combing process are
used in worsted system. Short fibers and long fibers are used for woolen and worsted system
respectively.
 worsted yarns are smooth, fine, higher strength than woolen yarns.

18. 1. Johnson, N.A. and Russell, I. eds., 2008. Advances in wool technology. Elsevier
2. Field, A., 2010. Spinning wool: beyond the basics. Trafalgar Square.
3. Fournier, N. and Fournier, J., 2003. In Sheep's Clothing. " F+ W Media, Inc.―
4. Simpson, W.S. and Crawshaw, G. eds., 2002. Wool: Science and technology.
Elsevier.
5. Simmons, P., 1977. Spinning and weaving with wool. Pacific Search Press.
6. Von Bergen, W. and Mauersberger, H.R., 1948. American wool handbook.
7. https://www.blackberry-ridge.com/prosdscr.htm.
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