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Composting 101 2021 05-29
- 1. COMPOSTING 101 Ellen Book, UF/IFAS Extension Miami-Dade County Master Gardener Link to presentation: https://TINYURL.com/CompostEase The presentation will begin shortly…
- 2. But first, a few MDPLS features….
- 6. Outside the Library Get a 24-hour access code to start reading. After 24 hours, return here to get a new code. There are no limits on how many codes you can use.
- 8. 0
- 15. Two scheduled repeats (check your emailed Zoom invite for links)
- 17. Thurs., June 3, 2021 6:00pm – 7:15pm … A moving mother-daughter saga illustrating the devastating realities of being an immigrant in America.
- 18. COMPOSTING 101 Ellen Book, Master Gardener UF/IFAS Extension Miami-Dade County Master Gardener Link to presentation: http://TINYURL.com/SmartCompost
- 22. Sat., June 19, 2021
- 23. Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences - IFAS https://sfyl.ifas.ufl.edu/miami-dade/
- 33. Was NOT me
- 34. Kitchen food scraps. Photo: Tia Silvasy, UF/IFAS
- 35. Too much too wet too long… Anaerobic bacteria kills worms UF/IFAS
- 37. A Tumbler Bin Composter UF/IFAS
- 42. Fill out the evaluation at the end of the program for a voucher 80-gallon capacity Size: 32” diameter X 32” tall
- 43. Sheet Composting Top-dressing on the soil surface like a garden lasagna right onto a future growing space. Trench Composting - composting directly in the soil Cold Bin Composting Fill your compost bin halfway with browns and bury kitchen scraps Bokashi Bucket anaerobic bacteria (grass-like inoculated bran, rice, dried leaves sprinkled over scraps). 10 days to ferment & “pickle” waste, forming an acidic organic matter that must be dug into the soil or added to a compost pile. TYPES OF COMPOSTING
- 45. GREENs = nitroGen BROWNs = carBon NitroGen = Protein CarBon = Energy From: https://small-farm-permaculture-and- sustainable-living.com/how-build-compost-pile/
- 46. What materials are good for composting?
- 49. Citrus (oranges, grapefruit, lemons, tangerines) Green/nitrogen - cut in half or quarter before composting; mix with browns & add 6-inch layer of browns on top
- 50. WWW.TINYURL.COM/ CANICOMPOSTIT? Material Can I Compost? Comment Banana skins Yes Bird cage "waste" Yes Bone meal Yes Bread Yes Cereal Yes Citrus (e.g., oranges, grapefruit, lemons, tangerines) Yes Green/nitrogen - must cut in half or quarter before composting; mix with browns & add 6-inch layer of browns on top Coffee grounds (with paper filter) Yes Green/nitrogen Corn cobs Yes Cornmeal Yes Cottonseed meal Yes Crop waste Yes Egg shells Yes Adds calcium
- 52. BROWNS ON THE BOTTOM & TOP ARE
- 62. AS PILE TEMPERATURES & TIME IS NEEDED FOR VARIOUS MICROORGANISMS TO COLONIZE
- 63. Left: (1 year old) Last year’s material all garden stuff, grass & leaves, kitchen: banana peels veg. trimmings from the pile’s top. Middle: (2 years old) bottom of this year’s pile put into bags Right: (3 years old) Finished product from the bags to be used in the garden & greenhouse this year GUESS WHERE THIS COMPOST WAS MADE?
- 65. Smaller surface areas decompose faster
- 71. The free compost bins have trapdoors at the bottom to access the compost which may need to be further cured/finished at a lower temperature.
- 72. Check for moisture when turning the compost. The consistency should feel like a wrung-out sponge. UF/IFAS
- 73. Smaller bits decompose faster BIGGER pieces need more time
- 74. Unfinished compost may stress plants, causing yellowing or stalling growth
- 75. Heat cooks most weeds. For hot composting turn when pile temperature drops below 100°F or if the pile is more than 150°F
- 76. HEALTHY VEGGIES AND PLANTS START WITH HEALTHY SOIL! UF/IFAS Leon County Extension
- 77. NOW LET’S TALK ABOUT…
- 78. Vermi-Composting Definitions • Vermiculture – Work farming process of culturing worms to decompose organic food waste, turning it into nutrient rich material • Casting – Worm waste, digested food • Omnivores – Animals that eat plants and animals • Hermaphrodites – Animals with male and female sex organs. http://clipart-library.com/
- 79. Red Wigglers
- 80. Contains • 5Xs the available nitrogen • 7Xs the available potash • 50% more calcium than 6” of good top soil • Water soluble nutrient immediately available for plant intake. Will not burn root system unlike fresh raw manures Red Wigglers UF/IFAS
- 82. 1) I'm having problems with my compost system and I'm not sure of the cause. What should I do first? a. Add water b. Add browns/carbon rich material c. Turn the compost
- 83. 1) I'm having problems with my compost system and I'm not sure of the cause. What should I do first? a. Add water b. Add browns/carbon rich material c. Turn the compost
- 84. 2) My compost smells bad and I turned it yesterday. What can I do? a. Add bulky browns/carbon-rich material b. Add greens/nitrogen-rich material c. Add water
- 85. 2) My compost smells bad and I turned it yesterday. What can I do? a. Add bulky browns/carbon-rich material b. Add greens/nitrogen-rich material c. Add water
- 86. 3) My pile won't heat up, but I have the proper volume of material (approximately 1 cubic yard), enough oxygen (aeration), and a good balance of carbon to nitrogen (approximately 30:1). What can I do? a. Add lime b. Add moisture c. Add potting soil d. Add clean wood ash e. All of the above
- 87. 3) My pile won't heat up, but I have the proper volume of material (approximately 1 cubic yard), enough oxygen (aeration), and a good balance of carbon to nitrogen (approximately 30:1). What can I do? b. Add moisture
- 88. 4) What can I do about flies in my compost? a. Spray with pesticide b. Create a separate pile for kitchen scraps c. No need to act
- 89. 4) What can I do about flies in my compost? a. Spray with pesticide b. Create a separate pile for kitchen scraps c. No need to act
- 90. 5) How can I compost in my high-rise condominium or apartment? a. With a compost bin b. With worms c. With the in-sink disposal
- 91. 5) How can I compost in my high-rise condominium or apartment? a. With a compost bin b. With worms c. With the in-sink disposal
- 92. 6) What is the optimal size of a composting system? a. The bigger, the better b. Long and narrow c. About 3 feet high by 3 feet long by 3 feet wide
- 93. 6) What is the optimal size of a composting system? a. The bigger, the better b. Long and narrow c. About 3 feet high by 3 feet long by 3 feet wide
- 94. 7) What can be used as a catalyst or inoculant to get my compost pile started? a. Finished compost b. Large pieces left over from screening compost c. Small amount of organic top soil from the yard d. Commercially prepared inoculant e. All of the above
- 95. 7) What can be used as a catalyst or inoculant to get my compost pile started? a. Finished compost b. Large pieces left over from screening compost c. Small amount of organic top soil from the yard d. Commercially prepared inoculant e. All of the above
- 96. 8) How do I get rid of fire ants in my compost pile? a. Leave the pile alone b. Water and turn the pile c. Spray the pile with pesticide
- 97. 8) How do I get rid of fire ants in my compost pile? a. Leave the pile alone b. Water and turn the pile c. Spray the pile with pesticide
- 98. 9) When is the compost finished? a. After 6-8 weeks b. When the compost appears dark, crumbly, and looks and smells like soil c. When the pile temperature exceeds 131 degrees F
- 99. 9) When is the compost finished? a. After 6-8 weeks b. When the compost appears dark, crumbly, and looks and smells like soil c. When the pile temperature exceeds 131 degrees F
- 100. 10) What determines how long it takes for organic material to become useful compost? a. Size of materials place into composting system b. Carbon-to-nitrogen (C:N) ratio of materials place into composting system c. Level of management/attention paid to the composting process d. Intended use for finished compost e. All of the above
- 101. 10) What determines how long it takes for organic material to become useful compost? a. Size of materials place into composting system b. Carbon-to-nitrogen (C:N) ratio of materials place into composting system c. Level of management/attention paid to the composting process d. Intended use for finished compost e. All of the above
- 102. 11) Must I cover the compost bin? a. Yes b. No
- 103. 11) Must I cover the compost bin? a. Yes b. No
- 104. 12) What items may harm my worms if added to my vermi-composting system? a. Alcohol or vinegar b. Coffee grinds c. Oranges or other citrus d. All of the above
- 105. 12) What items may harm my worms if added to my vermi-composting system? a. Alcohol or vinegar b. Coffee grinds c. Oranges or other citrus d. All of the above
- 106. 13) It I can't compost it, what can I do with it? a. Reduce b. Reuse c. Recycle d. All of the above
- 107. 13) It I can't compost it, what can I do with it? a. Reduce b. Reuse c. Recycle d. All of the above
- 108. 14) Must I use a manufactured composting bin? a. Yes b. No
- 109. 14) Must I use a manufactured composting bin? a. Yes b. No
- 110. 15) What is the lowest-cost backyard composting system? a. Pile, trench, and sheet composting b. Manufactured bins c. Self-made bins
- 111. 15) What is the lowest-cost backyard composting system? a. Pile, trench, and sheet composting b. Manufactured bins c. Self-made bins
- 112. 16) What best accelerates the decomposition of oak leaves? a. Water the pile b. Turn the pile twice a week c. Shred leaves before adding to the compost d. All of the above
- 113. 16) What best accelerates the decomposition of oak leaves? a. Water the pile b. Turn the pile twice a week c. Shred leaves before adding to the compost d. All of the above
- 114. 17) How can I accelerate the compost decomposition process? a. Active management of the compost system b. Building a bigger pile c. Adding a compost starter/inoculant/catalyst d. None of the above
- 115. 17) How can I accelerate the compost decomposition process? a. Active management of the compost system b. Building a bigger pile c. Adding a compost starter/inoculant/catalyst d. None of the above
- 116. 18) How much time does it take to make compost? a. One hour per day b. One hour per week c. One hour per month d. As little or as much time as I want
- 117. 18) How much time does it take to make compost? a. One hour per day b. One hour per week c. One hour per month d. As little or as much time as I want
- 118. 19) Hot composting and vermi-composting are compatible? a. True b. False
- 119. 19) Hot composting and vermi-composting are compatible? a. True b. False
- 120. 20) How does composting affect soil pH? a. Makes soils more acidic b. Makes soils more basic c. Has a buffering effect
- 121. 20) How does composting affect soil pH? a. Makes soils more acidic b. Makes soils more basic c. Has a buffering effect
- 122. 20) How does composting affect soil pH? c. Has a buffering effect In general, compost has a buffering effect on soils. Compost made from acidic materials, such as pine needles or oak leaves, may have a slightly acidifying effect on soils. Because many soils in Florida are slightly basic, there is rarely a need to add lime to neutralize even acidic composts.
- 123. LANDFILL SITES
- 125. Evaluation & Voucher Link to presentation: https://TINYURL.com/CompostEase Vouchers will be accepted starting on Wednesday, June 2, 2021 The link will be up until Monday.
Notes de l'éditeur
- Hello, I am… You’ll need a paper and pen for a 20 question self-graded quiz towards the end. Those who complete the lecture, there will be a link put into the chat at the end. The link takes you to an evaluation. Fill out the evaluation and you will have access to the free Composter voucher. One voucher per household. Take the voucher to the Miami-Dade Water and Sewer Dept in Doral to pick up your free composter.
- This is the commercial for the public library before we get to the meat and potatoes of the program
- After this program, my staff host a Graphic Novels Club in partnership with a publisher of Comic Books who conducts the bookclub. https://mdpls.org/event/4772869
- You’ll need a paper and pen for a 20 question self-graded quiz towards the end. Those who complete the lecture, there will be a link put into the chat at the end. The link takes you to two evaluations. Fill out the two evaluations and you will have access to the free Composter voucher. One voucher per household. Take the voucher to the Miami-Dade Water and Sewer Dept in Doral to pick up your free composter.
- Classes are given once a year in the FALL (classes run from September through November) Classroom training takes one full day (9 am to 4:30 pm) per week (M-F) for 10-12 weeks and is held at the Miami-Dade County Extension office in Homestead, Florida. Through the Master Gardener training program, participants receive more than 80 hours of classroom & field training from University of Florida professors, horticultural professionals, and Extension Agents. The Miami-Dade County Extension office offers the program . WHAT A MASTER GARDENER LEARNS ABOUT Flower & Vegetable Gardening Ornamental Trees, Palms, & Shrubs Insect, Disease, & Weed Identification Soils, Composting, & Mulching And much, much more! Fruit Trees Lawns Proper Pesticide & Fertilizer Use Basic Botany
- https://sfyl.ifas.ufl.edu/miami-dade/ Google Miami Cooperative Extension JUN 21, 2021 Informative session: 1st Time Homebuyers Topic: 1st Time Homebuyers Workshop Earn a certificate to obtain downpayment assistance!
- Topic Tropical Fruit Tuesdays--Proper Planting Tips and Tricks DescriptionThis informative webinar will teach you the basics on how to properly plant your tropical fruit trees. We will also cover aftercare and plant selection. 2-2:45pm June 8– tropical fruit with integrated pest management July - Mangos
- JUN 19, 2021 FROM 10-11am ONLINE Rain Gardening Workshop Rain Gardens are a beautiful feature for any landscape. They also provide a place for rain to slow and soak into the Biscayne Aquifer and can help prevent rain from becoming polluted stormwater. how to design and construct a rain garden and what plants will thrive in this aquatic garden. https://www.eventbrite.com/e/creating-rain-gardens-a-beautiful-way-to-soak-up-the-rain-in-your-garden-tickets-152414757643
- IFAS links UF/Cooperative Extension programs: 4H program Serves growers too
- These temperature extremes were measured at Miami International Airport and go back to 1948. The lowest temperature recorded there during that period was 30 degrees Fahrenheit (-1 Celsius) on December 25, 1989 and January 22, 1985. Summary of Historic Cold Episode of January 2010 - Set new January record of 10 total days of high temperatures at or below 65 degrees (previous record 8 days in 1940 and 1977).
- EDIS is educational publications on specific topics
- ADVICE SUCH AS WHAT FRUITS AND VEGGIES WILL GROW AND THRIVE.
- https://gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu/
- For the homeowner.
- ADVICE FOR SOUTH FLORIDA GARDENERS
- https://tinyurl.com/MiamiVeggies
- https://tinyurl.com/MonthlyPlanting
- https://tinyurl.com/FLVeggieGarden So bare basics: Just remember to type I F A S when Googling your FL gardening search terms.
- START WITH FOOD SCRAPS. BUT THAT IS JUST THE START…
- TOO MUCH OF ONE THING – LIKE FOOD SCRAPS – MAKES A STINKY MESS.
- LIFE AND COMPOSTING – IT’S ALL ABOUT BALANCE.
- THERE ARE DIFFERENT KINDS OF COMPOST BINS. SOME CITIES DON’T ALLOW OPEN BINS. MINIMUM SIZE 3’x3’x3” Types of bins: https://tinyurl.com/42wbx2t8 MOBILE HOLDING BIN STATIONARY BIN MULTI-BIN TURNING SYSTEM TUMBLERS AND DRUMS SHEET COMPOSTING (NO BIN) HEAP OR PILE COMPOSTING (NO BIN)
- THERE ARE DIFFERENT KINDS OF COMPOST BINS. SOME CITIES DON’T ALLOW OPEN BINS. MINIMUM SIZE 3’x3’x3”
- A COMPOST PILE IS AS EASY AS A CIRCLE OF WIRE. ENCLOSURES ARE A GOOD IDEA TO KEEP OUT DOGS & RODENTS FROM DIGGING FOR FOOD SCRAPS.
- This is the composter and it’s in four pieces + stakes to put into the ground. There’s a screw on top, a door and two sections for the sides. Dimensions are 32” in diameter X 32” tall with a volume capacity of 80 gallons.
- Sheet Composting is just scattering organic material on the soil surface and then allowing the browns and greens to decompose without further manipulation. Its easy, lazy but has drawbacks. So, as these materials decompose, compost filters slowly into the soil below. Leaves, wood chips, and other mulches are examples of sheet composting. The disadvantages of sheet composting include slow rate of decomposition and it is not compatible with composting all materials such as kitchen scraps. You’ll attract animals who’ll seek out the kitchen scraps. Also, if the raw materials contain weed seed or plant pathogens, these undesirables won’t be destroyed in the sheet composting process. Trench Composting is a relatively straight-forward method of composting directly in the soil. This method does not require a bin. Simply dig a trench 8 inches deep in the garden area, fill with 4 inches of kitchen scraps and backfill with soil. After a few months, the material will have decomposed sufficiently for planting above the compost trench. For large amounts of material, consider roto-tilling the material into the soil, and waiting a season before planting. The disadvantages of trench composting include slow rate of decomposition and potential for pests to excavate trenches. Additionally, if the raw materials contain weed seed or plant pathogens, these undesirables will not be destroyed in the trench composting process. Heap Pile Composting – WHICH A QUESITON IS ON THE UPCOMING QUIZ QUESTION You do not have to have a bin to have a compost system. A compost heap can be created anywhere in your yard, it's simply a collection of compostable materials placed in a designated area. Today we promote bins help keep the compost neat and tidy, and to help you exclude varmint type pests from becoming a problem. Bokashi is Japanese word meaning "fermented organic matter. Bokashi composting can be done in a relatively small space since it does not require materials to be fluffed up with air. The material produced is a fermented product, not a traditional compost that can be surface applied to a garden as a mulch. It must either be buried in trenches in the garden or added to a traditional compost heap for further breakdown. The process requires a special airtight bucket or bin with the ability to drain off the liquid that is produced.
- START OUT WITH A VEGETARIAN COMPOST PILE. IF YOU’RE PUTTING THE COMPOST ON EDIBLES, THINK ABOUT WHAT YOU WANT THE PLANT TO UPTAKE FROM THE SOIL IF THE ANIMAL EATS MEATS – DON’T COMPOST ITS POOP. IF IT STILL HAS A WATER CONTENT – IT’S A GREEN
- The bacteria responsible for the composting process require C & N as nutrients to construct their bodies as they reproduce and multiply. CARBON HAS A “B” SO THINK BROWN NITROGEN HAS AN “G” SO THINK GREEN CARBON CREATES ENERGY AS HEAT. NITROGEN IS USED A FOOD/PROTEIN. The greens contain higher levels of nitrogen. So, fresh green plant material contains high levels of nitrogen. As the greens age they lose nitrogen and turn brown at the same time. Green leaves have high levels of nitrogen, but as they go brown in fall, their nitrogen levels drop. Wood products and straw have low levels of nitrogen. THE ELEMENTS IN THIS SLIDE ARE THE RECIPE. GREENS + BROWNS + WATER + HEAT + MICRO-ORGANISMS (bacteria, fungi, microbes) + MACRO-ORGANISMS (earthworms, insects) + OXYGEN = COMPOST
- RECIIPE IS SIMPLE – DO NOT OVERDUE THE GREENS
- EXAMPLES OF GREENS
- Examples of browns
- Like feathers and wheat flour and bird cage waste, and drier lint
- LIKE THE FOOD PYRAMID OF HOW MUCH WE SHOULD EAT – THIS IS WHAT COMPOST IS CREATED FROM: MORE BROWNS, THEN GREENS
- YES, YOU CAN MIX IT ALL UP. BUT THIS METHOD IS BALANCED. BALANCING MAKES THE COMPOST BREAK DOWN FASTER.
- SOIL THAT IS STERILE (WITHOUT MICRO-ORGANISMS) END UP NEEDING MORE FERTILIZERS. FERTILIZERS SEEP INTO THE AQUIFER. BTW, Did you know that there’s a new Miami Dade ordinance prohibiting fertilizer use from May 15 to Oct 31? It is intended to offset the harmful nutrients that wash into canals that end up in waterways.
- Solarization – sterilizing the soil from last seasons infiltration of nematodes, viruses, funguses, etc. Summer crops to add nitrogen: cowpea, velvet bean, soybean, and sunflower • Winter: cereal rye (FL 401), crimson clover, and Austrian winter pea
- In the process of composting, microorganisms break down organic matter and produce carbon dioxide, water, heat, and humus, DIFFERENT BUGS LIKE DIFFERENT TEMPS.
- A LOT OF LIFE GOES ON IN JUST ONE TABLESPOON OF DIRT. Soil is alive. Much more than a prop to hold up your plants, healthy soil is a jungle of voracious creatures eating and pooping and reproducing their way toward glorious soil fertility. A single teaspoon (1 gram) of rich garden soil can hold up to one billion bacteria, several yards of fungal filaments, several thousand protozoa, and scores of nematodes,
- Each time we turn the soil, we disrupt billions of bacteria, fungi, insects, worms, and other animals living in the first few inches of earth. The unlucky ones are sliced by the shovel or flipped to the surface where they dry out in the sun and die. Others end up in compacted areas where they die because air and water aren’t able to move through the soil. The rest of the soil ecosystem has to find balance again. Insects and worms rebuild “homes.” Bacteria reestablish colonies. Fungi regrow mycelial networks.
- DIFFERENT BACTERIA LIKE DIFFERENT TEMPS. Different communities of microorganisms predominate during the various composting phases. Initial decomposition is carried out by mesophilic microorganisms, which rapidly break down the soluble, readily degradable compounds. The heat they produce causes the compost temperature to rapidly rise. As the temperature rises above about 104F, the mesophilic microorganisms become less competitive and are replaced by others that are thermophilic, or heat-loving. At temperatures of 131°F and above, many plant pathogens are destroyed.
- COMPOST STARTS out COLD, AND AS THE MICROORGANISMS EAT IT GETS HOT, THEN HOTTER, THEN AS THEIR FOOD SUPPLY IS USED UP IT STARTS TO COOL DOWN. 68F beginning on this chart to 131F Because temperatures over about 149°F kill many forms of microbes and limit the rate of decomposition, compost managers use aeration and mixing to keep the temperature below this point.
- During the thermophilic phase, high temperatures accelerate the breakdown of proteins, fats, and complex carbohydrates like cellulose and hemicellulose, the major structural molecules in plants. As the supply of these high-energy compounds becomes exhausted, the compost temperature gradually decreases and mesophilic microorganisms once again take over for the final phase of "curing" or maturation of the remaining organic matter.
- THIS IS THE PROCESS. How much time depends on the mix.
- Compost heat is produced as a by-product of the microbial breakdown of organic material.
- ALASKA! WHAT TAKES THREE YEARS IN ALASKA, CAN TAKE JUST MONTHS IN OUR CLIMATE. THE PROBLEM FOR SOUTH FLORIDA GARDENERS, IS WITH YEAR-ROUND HEAT, COMPOST used in the garden DETERIORATES QUICKLY.
- Grass can form a mat barrier which needs to be broken up.
- CHIP DOWN LARGER ITEMS. ONE WOMAN USES HER BLENDER TO CREATE A MUSH, another bakes egg shells til they are crispy and break down into dust SHREDDERS ARE GOOD FOR TOILET PAPER ROLLS, SMALLER CARDBOARD.
- IT’S THE SAME RECIPE. AERATION KEEPS THE GREENS FROM MATTING. What they are calling low nitrogen – is high carbon.
- IF YOU ARE USING AN OUTSIDE OPEN COMPOSTER – BURY ANY FOOD SCRAPS AT LEAST 7 INCHES DEEP.
- AERATION IS A NECESSITY. THIS IS THE PHYSICAL PART OF COMPOSTING.
- THE OTHER PHYSICAL PART IS MOVING THE NEWEST DECOMPOSED MATERIALS OUT TO MATURE. MOVE THE COOLER AREAS OUTSIDE TO THE INSIDE.
- THE COMPOSTER THAT MIAMI-DADE GIVES OUT HAS A DOOR AT THE BOTTOM TO TAKE OUT COMPOST. LARGER PIECES CAN BE PUT BACK INSIDE
- Your composting system may not break down all the larger materials, such as corn cobs or wood chips, in the first batch of compost that you make. When you screen your compost, any material larger than your screen size can be removed. These materials are called "overs," and they can go back into the compost system the next time that you build a pile. The overs provide bulk for aeration, and microbes attached to these pieces will help jump-start the new composting process.
- COMPOST IS AN AMENDMENT NOT A FERTILIZER. IT HELPS WITH THE UPTAKE OF NUTRIENTS. JUST LIKE YOU DON’T LIVE BY EATING JUST VITAMINS, THE VITAMIN PILLS THAT YOU TAKE HELP YOU ABSORB THE MOST OUT OF THE FOOD THAT YOUR EAT.
- A THERMOMETER IS VALUABLE! Probe deep into the compost. Take TEMPERATURE readings in several locations at various depths from the top and sides. Compost may have hotter and colder pockets depending on the moisture & ingredients. IF air enters from the bottom, the hottest locations tend to be two-thirds or more of the way up. A well constructed compost system will heat up to 104F -122F within two to three days. As readily decomposable organic matter becomes depleted, the temperature begins to drop and the process slows considerably. The temperature DEPENDS ON how much heat is being produced by microorganisms and how much is lost through aeration and surface cooling. Moisture also affects temperature change; since water has a higher heat than most other materials, drier compost mixtures tend to heat up and cool off more quickly than wetter mixtures, + MICROBES NEED MOISTURE.
- HEALTHY VEGGIES AND PLANTS START WITH HEALTHY DIRT
- Great for apartments. Quiet. Loves the dark. Best pet ever!! No pet deposit required! Fishing Bait shop One lb of worms can turn 65 lbs of edible garbage into compost in 100 days.
- The four most common types of earthworms you will most likely run into are nightcrawlers, garden worms, manure worms, and, red worms,. The type recognized by most gardeners as the earthworm, however, is the nightcrawler These worms get all the nutrition they need from the soil, and as they travel through the substrate feeding and defecating, their extremely fertile “castings” (waste) is the perfect nutritional supplement. In fact, earthworm populations have been shown to increase plant growth and health in independent studies (source). The tunnels that they form through the soil serve to oxygenate the plants’ root structure and creates habitat for microorganisms to contribute to plant health. Earthworms are solitary in nature and can burrow up to six inches deep. Their castings are packed with key nutrients: phosphorus, calcium, nitrogen, and magnesium. In addition to aerating the soil, their tunnels also create routes through which water can percolate through the substrate, aiding in proper hydration of all of your garden fruits, veggies, and ornamentals. $38.95 / lb = 250 500 = $44.95
- Temperature of 70-80 degrees Bedding and food Air –skin is their lung Moisture –Need water to breathe through their skin. Bodies are filled with water - even more than ours Designed as a "tube within a tube" - the digestive tract runs the length of the body from mouth to anus Consume their own weight in food daily Have 5 hearts, 1 brain, breathe through skin and lay eggs Double in population every 2-3 months in ideal conditions - (60°- 80°F) Life span – 15+ years red worms are better equipped to work and live in your compost bin or pile more than they are for your in-ground soil. This is because red worms have different preferences and environmental boundaries than nightcrawlers. Red worms prefer to eat manure and decaying plant matter and are likely to eat anything that you put in your worm bin. They feed and prefer to stay within the top few inches of soil. Red wigglers are excellent consumers of organic kitchen waste and provide incredibly nutrient-rich worm castings which you can use in your garden or potted plants.
- After 3-5 months Option 1 – Push and Wait Push compost to one side of bin. Fill empty side with new moistened shredded paper and kitchen scraps. Worms will eventually migrate to new food source. Compost can be removed Option 2 – Dump and Shine Dump contents onto flat surface. Shine light on largest concentration of worms. Will migrate from light. Harvest when worms have moved. Option 3 – Both at once – harvest worms and compost Dump contents on plastic-covered table in daylight or under lamp. Form many small piles. Worms will move to bottom. After a few minutes you can remove compost free of worms. Ten minutes later, do it again. Rebed worms when finished
- https://sfyl.ifas.ufl.edu/sarasota/natural-resources/waste-reduction/composting/quizfaq/
- CORRECT! Most problems associated with composting are due to lack of oxygen in the pile so introduce oxygen, break up clumps, mix the materials, fluff up the materials, and improve the environment inside the compost system. Always turn first — the compost may start performing as desired.
- CORRECT! Most problems associated with composting are due to lack of oxygen in the pile so introduce oxygen, break up clumps, mix the materials, fluff up the materials, and improve the environment inside the compost system. Always turn first — the compost may start performing as desired.
- Moisture can be the limiting factor for the most efficient composting. Try adding water to a compost system that won't heat up. Your compost should be as wet as a damp sponge. When you grab a handful of compost it will stay in a ball, but not drip with excess moisture. Too much moisture will also slow your composting process and may cause odors.
- Flies and their larvae, which look like white grubs, can be part of the decomposition process. If the flies don't bother you, ignore them. But, to not breed flies in a compost piles, they are most active in wet kitchen scraps which keep tightly covered so that flies can't lay their eggs in the compostables. Bury scraps deeper in the pile, or cover with at least 4-6 inches of brown cover. Also, flies will be less attracted to a very hot pile.
- You can compost kitchen scraps and organic matter such as trimmings from your house plants using a type of composting called Vermi-composting. This is composting with the help of worms such as red-wigglers. The worms need a place to live, such a small tub or bin placed in a shady section of your porch. Vermi-composting is very efficient and produces material suitable for potting plants.
- The ideal size of the backyard composting pile in a bin is about one cubic yard (3' x 3' x 3'). If you generate more than one cubic yard of material, consider using more bins, rather than larger piles. Larger piles might compact and restrict air flow.
- The ideal size of the backyard composting pile in a bin is about one cubic yard (3' x 3' x 3'). If you generate more than one cubic yard of material, consider using more bins, rather than larger piles. Larger piles might compact and restrict air flow.
- Many of the micro-organisms needed for decomposition already exist in the environment and on the organic material that is being composted. Other decomposers will join the composting process by floating in on air currents. However, you may want to use an inoculant / catalyst to jump start the microbial activity in your pile. The following materials can be added: Finished compost, which has a compliment of microbes active and dormant in the material; Large pieces left over from screening compost, which will provide bulk as well as microbes to the composting process; A small amount of organic top soil, from the yard; and/or A commercially prepared inoculant.
- Many of the micro-organisms needed for decomposition already exist in the environment and on the organic material that is being composted. Other decomposers will join the composting process by floating in on air currents. However, you may want to use an inoculant / catalyst to jump start the microbial activity in your pile. The following materials can be added: Finished compost, which has a compliment of microbes active and dormant in the material; Large pieces left over from screening compost, which will provide bulk as well as microbes to the composting process; A small amount of organic top soil, from the yard; and/or A commercially prepared inoculant.
- Fire ants usually avoid places that are disturbed so a compost pile that is turned will be a unattractive. Ants don’t like wet feet, so keep a moist pile. Reaching higher temperatures in the early stages of composting may also discourage the ants. Most fire ant activities are the result of abandoning the composting process. Once the ants become established or are a hazard to you, try pouring boiling water on the nest. As a last resort, you may use fire ant bait killer NEAR but not in the compost pile. However, avoid direct application of pesticides directly on the compost and follow the pesticide label's instructions for use.
- Compost is finished when it appears crumbly and dark, and looks and smells like soil. You won't be able to recognize most of the materials that you put in at the beginning of the process. You may screen out larger woody pieces to remove materials that have not completely composted yet.
- Compost is finished when it appears crumbly and dark, and looks and smells like soil. You won't be able to recognize most of the materials that you put in at the beginning of the process. You may screen out larger woody pieces to remove materials that have not completely composted yet.
- A backyard composting system may yield finished soil-like compost in two to three months by using small organic pieces less than 2", a mixture of organic materials with a carbon to nitrogen ratio of approximately 30:1, actively turning the pile one to two times per week and monitoring for correct moisture content and temperature. Compost that will be used as a mulch will be ready for use more quickly than compost that will be incorporated into the soil for immediate planting.
- Too much rain leeches nutrients.
- Pile, trench, and sheet composting systems cost nothing and require little effort. They are cold and slow. Even minimal attention to material size, moisture, and turning will lead to successful composting. Sheet Composting involves scattering organic material on the soil surface and allowing the materials to decompose without further manipulation. As the materials decompose, compost filters slowly into the soil below. Leaves, wood chips, and other mulches are examples of sheet composting. The disadvantages of sheet composting include slow rate of decomposition and it is not compatible with composting all materials such as kitchen scraps. Additionally, if the raw materials contain weed seed or plant pathogens, these undesirables will not be destroyed in the sheet composting process. Trench Composting is a relatively straight-forward method of composting directly in the soil. This method does not require a bin. Simply dig a trench 8 inches deep in the garden area, fill with 4 inches of kitchen scraps and backfill with soil. After a few months, the material will have decomposed sufficiently for planting above the compost trench. For large amounts of material, consider roto-tilling the material into the soil, and waiting a season before planting. The disadvantages of trench composting include slow rate of decomposition and potential for pests to excavate trenches. Additionally, if the raw materials contain weed seed or plant pathogens, these undesirables will not be destroyed in the trench composting process. Heap Pile Composting You do not have to have a bin to have a compost system. A compost heap can be created anywhere in your yard, it's simply a collection of compostable materials placed in a designated area. However, bins help keep the compost neat and tidy, and may help you exclude pests if they are a problem.
- Shredding leaves prior to composting will accelerate their decomposition by breaking the waxy leaf edge. This creates sites for microorganisms to start breaking down the leaf structure. Watering and turning will also help speed up the decomposition process.
- Composting or decomposition can be accelerated through the active management of your compost pile, including the following basic steps: ~Balance high carbon leaves with a source of nitrogen; Add moisture as you build and turn your pile, but do not over saturate the pile; Turn your pile once per week; and Use your unfinished compost as mulch.
- You can compost most items with very little effort. Only large volumes of "green" material will require more intense effort during the initial stages. But as with many activities, the more that you put into it the more you get out of it. So the amount of time it takes to make compost varies. Just remember that any effort you make to compost will go a long way to reducing pressure on our landfills, and adds organic matter to our highly depleted sub-tropical soils. You can make a difference.
- Temperatures higher than 90 degrees F will kill or drive away worms. Use a cold-composting method if you will be attracting worms to your compost.
- Compost made from acidic materials, such as pine needles or oak leaves, may have a slightly acidifying effect on soils. Because many soils in Florida are slightly basic, there is rarely a need to add lime to neutralize even acidic composts.
- LANDFILLS IN FLORIDA ARE THROUGHOUT FL. THE TRASH PILES ARE GETTING BIGGER AND HIGHER . 20-30% WHAT’S BEING TRASHED COULD BE RECYCLED INTO COMPOST.
- For those who want to pick up a composter, you must fill out the Cooperative Extension’s survey This information allows the Cooperative Extension Service to be inclusive and reach out to all demographics. Starting Wednesday, June 2, you can go pick up your composter. The site is open Wed. through Sunday.