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PV orchard aerial view 03
TRAINING AND PRUNING
     FRUIT TREES

      Michael G. Janik

     ISA Certified Arborist
www.michaelsapples.com
Training vs. Pruning
My Favorite Pruning Books
Right tool
for the right
     job

 Loppers
 Pruners
  Saws

  Clean
 Sanitized
  Sharp
Anvil vs. Bypass Shears
Pruning

The Good, the Bad, and the Ugly
Firewood pruning ‘03
Firewood Pruning ‘04
Firewood Tree ‘05
Firewood Tree ‘08
Firewood Tree
     2010
Shade Apple


Open to allow
sunlight and
   airflow
Starling Special



    Dwarfing
   Rootstocks

Genetic Miniatures
Upright growth

Acute limb angles



     Spring
  Bare root trees

Horizontal Scaffold
      Limbs
Scaffold limbs, fruiting shoots
HUH???

  Need low,
  horizontal
scaffold limbs

Do not plant
on easements
Garden,
Orchard
  or
 Yard?
Topping x 3
Natural
Target
Pruning
Proper pruning cut, before
Proper pruning cut, after
Well-sealed pruning scar
Cut back to a branch or bud
Open to infection
Natural Target Pruning II
• Always cut back to a bud or branch
• Always angle the cut away from the bud
• Choose growth direction
Angle cut away from bud
Select bud growth direction
Cut to a Branch, Bud, or Fruiting Spur
Apical Dominance

• Apical dominance is a tree’s response to
  a pruning cut
• All pruning cuts cause the same
  reaction in a tree
• Proper pruning uses apical dominance
  to shape trees
Apical Dominance
Size control using rootstocks
• Standard—25 ft and up
• Semi-Dwarf or half-standard
  – 8 to18 ft apples, pears
  – 15 to 20+ ft stone fruits (cherries, plums, etc
• Genetic Dwarf/Miniatures—5-8 ft
• Varietal vigor
Standard   Semi-Dwarf
Dwarf Apple Tree (must be supported)
Easy access to harvest
Pruning
Forms
  for
 Fruit
 Trees
Training a Horizontal Espalier
•   Suitable for apples and pears
•   Recommend 24-16-16-16 inches
•   Opens tree to sunlight and air flow
•   Easy to prune
•   Easy access to spray, thin, and pick
•   Easily covered with bird netting
•   Aesthetically attractive
Pear espalier on south-facing wall
Training Anything’s Possible
1st Year Horizontal
      Espalier
Summer
Winter

 before
pruning
Winter after pruning
2nd Year Horizontal
     Espalier
Water sprouts and fruiting shoots
Water Sprouts After Pruning
Before
After
3rd Year Espalier
Apple Espaliers Third year
Mature Horizontal
    Espalier
Espalier Pear Ohio
Mature Horizontal espalier
End of Row
Apple Espalier early summer
PV Orchard 2005
Informal or Fan Espalier
Candelabra
Training a Fan Espalier

• Suitable for all fruits
• Locate against a south facing wall or as a
  hedge or fence
• Easy to prune, easy to care for
• Aesthetically beautiful
1st Year Fan
  Espalier
2nd Year Fan
  Espalier
Mature Fan Espalier
Plum Espalier
Renewing a plum espalier, before
Renewing a plum espalier, after
Training A Central Leader
                Tree

•   Apples, Pears, plums, and cherries
•   Dwarf Pyramid or Pyramid
•   French Axe
•   Spindle Bush
1st Year
Training Horizontal Limb Growth
Training using Clothespins 1st year
2 year, etc; before
 nd
2nd year, etc; after
2nd Year
2yr dwarf
 pyramid
  pear
3rd and Subsequent Years
Cut out vigorous growth
Vigorous growth removed
Regrowth
Next Summer
Always remove
one of any split
    shoots
Split Trunk
Thin forked branch growth
Mature dwarf
  pyramid
Central
leader pear
 in bloom
Semi-dwarf
 Central
  Leader
Supported
French Axe
Central Leader Pears Oregon
Central Leader Pears
Summary

  Training a
Central Leader
Training an Open Center Tree

• Stone fruits, esp. peaches, nectarines
• Lowest limb 12-18 inches
• 3-5 limbs at low angle form a vase
  shape
• Allows sunlight needed to ripen fruit
Training an
Open Center
   Tree
1yr Open Center Cherry
2yr Open Center Cherry
Open Center
oriental pear
Open center peach
Texas peach orchard
Texas peach tree
Peach tree at Monticello
Winter vs. Summer Pruning
• Winter (Dormant) Pruning
  – Promotes vegetative growth in the spring
  – Use to train young trees
• (Late) Summer and Fall pruning
  – Reduces food storage in roots and hence
    reduces tree growth in spring
  – Use on older, overgrown trees to open and
    rejuvenate the tree.
  – Use to establish fruiting spurs
Restoring a Neglected Fruit Tree
Rejuvenating Neglected Trees
• Always
  – Remove dead, diseased, and damaged
    wood
  – Remove crossing/rubbing branches
  – Remove water sprouts at limb junction
  – Remove suckers at the root junction
• Never
  – Remove more than 20% green wood each
    year
  – Never fertilize
Arroyo 2004
Arroyo 2008
Arroyo Before After
90 yr old Delicious
Quincy, CA apple tree




Heading Back, Apple Tree, Quincy, CA
Standard pear
Apple
Before   After
After       After

 2nd year    3rd year
Semi dwarf, before
Semi dwarf, after
Red Del 09 Before
Apple, before
Apple, after
Pruning for Fruit
• Apples and Pears
  – Spur bearing
  – Tip Bearing
• Plums and Cherries
• Nectarines and Peaches
Pear flower buds on spurs
Peach flower on last year’s growth
Pruning for spur fruit
Fruiting spurs on mature tree
Renewal Pruning of Spurs
Pruning for Peaches & Nectarines
Peach flower and leaf buds
New and old growth on peach
Summary

•   Apical Dominance
•   Cut to a branch or bud
•   Choose bud/growth direction
•   Training vs. Pruning


• References, Google It!
• Buy a Pruning Book and Use It!

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Grow Your Own, Nevada! Spring 2012: Training and Pruning Fruit Trees

Notes de l'éditeur

  1. Make cuts on branch bard ridge so collar heals over itself. Do not paint or seal cuts. Make proper top cuts. Do not top trees ; control height with variety and rootstocks. Control growth direction; generally, prune to downward facing buds for horizontal limb growth. Prune to buds or branches. Do not leave stubs. Prune roots as you would and should a limb or branch.
  2. Plant a whip and orient the buds! Cut back to about 18” above the ground. When branches begin to emerge, rub off buds oriented perpendicular to the plane of the fan. When branches are about a foot long, select two and prune all others to the trunk. When branches are about 18-24 in long, prune to a downward pointing bud. Select branches growing in the espalier plane to keep, prune others to about 6 buds.
  3. Dormant Pruning: Do in Jan/Feb apples; at pink tip for stone fruits. Prune to a bud going in the direction you want the limb to go.