1. Md. Hadiul Islam

2. Fundamentals of Textile & Classification ofTextile Fiber
Flow chart of synthetic process of MMF & Classification of MMF
Fiber Forms
Denier, Filament denier, Cotton count ,Tex & Conversion
Man made fiber technology & Regenerated & Synthetic fiber
Basic characteristics of MMF
Influence of chemical structure on properties
Fundamental of MMF Production
General principle of Spinning process & Spinning of polymer
Comparative Feature of Melt, Dry, Wet Spinning
Manufacture ofViscose Rayon & Factors affecting the quality of
Viscose & Manufacturing process flow chart
 Flow chart of lyocell process & Schematic diagram of Lyocell &
Cuprammonium Rayon

3. Introduction
A textile is flexible material consisting of network of
natural or artificial fiber often referred to as thread or yarn.
fibers is defined as unit of matter characterized by
flexibility, fineness, and a high ratio of length to thickness.
Fabric refers to any material made through weaving,
knitting, crocheting, or bonding .
Apparel is anything that one puts on ones body.Clothing,
shoes, hats, globes, & scarves are example of apparel items

4. 1. Naturally occurring fibers of vegetable origin.
2. Naturally occurring fibers of animal origin.
3. Regenerated man-made fibers which use some
naturally occurring substance as the raw material.
4. Synthetic man-made fibers which use synthetic
organic compounds as raw material.
5. Mineral fibers which are entirely inorganic.

5. Synthetic fiber has beginning with chemistry;
A media is developed and filtered under pressure;
It is then extruded into continuous filaments;
The filaments are allowed to solidify ;
They are then stretched;
A finishing solution is then applied;
The bundle of filament is then crimped;
The final step before packaging and shipping is:
Cutting the fiber bundle into staple length

6. Man made fiber can be classified into
three classes:
1).Those made from natural polymers
2).Those made from synthetic polymers
3).Those made from inorganic materials

7. Man made
fiber
Organic Inorganic
By transformation
natural polymer
From synthetic
polymer
Viscose
Cupro
Lyocell
Acetate
Triacetate
Modal
Alginate
Elastodiene
Polyester
Polyamide
Polypropylene
Polyvinyl
Polyethylene
Elastane
Modacrylic
Aramid
Acrylic
Carbon
Ceramic
Glass
Metal

8. Continuous Filament yarn
Spun or staple yarn
Tow
Mono filament

9. The coarseness of yarn or filament is usually gauged
as denier. Denier is a unit of measure for the linear
mass density of fibers.
The denier of a yarn is the weight in grams of
length of 9000 meters of that yarn.
i.e- If 9000 meters of yarn weigh 100 grams-the
yarn is said to be 100 denier.
The term micro denier is used to describe filaments that
weigh less than one gram per 9000 meter length

10. Filament denier only relates to a single filament (D.P.F is commonly
known as denier per filament) Total denier relates to a yarn, an
agglomeration of filaments.
D.P.F=Total denier/Quantity of uniform filaments
If a yarn of 100 denier is composed of either 20 or 60 filaments, then
the filament denier will be:
For 20 filaments yarn,
D.P.F = 100/20 = 5 denier- coarse filament
For 60 filaments yarn,
D.P.F = 100/60 = 1.7denier-fine filament

11. The yarn numbering system based on length & weight
originally used for the cotton yarns & now employed for most
staple yarns spun on the cotton or short staple system.
The number of 840-yards in 1 lb is known as cotton count.
Under this system, the higher the number, the finer is the
yarn.
Tex is the unit measure for the linear mass density of fibers &
is defined as the mass in grams per 1000 meters.Tex is more
likely to be used in Canada & Europe.While denier remains
more common in united states.
The unit code is “tex”.The most commonly used unit is
actually the decitex, abbreviated dtex, which is the mass in
grams per 10,00 meters.

12. For 1s cotton count
840 yards of cotton weights = 1lb
840m ˶ ˶ weights = 453.6× 1.093613298 gm
9000m ˶ ˶ weights = (453.6× 1.093613298 × 9000)/840
= 5315 gm
(equivalent denier or conversion factor)
50s cotton count = 106.3 denier
2/50s cotton count = 212.6 denier
106.3 denier = 50s cotton count
Again 9000 m of filament weigh 9 grams means, 9 denier

13. Then mathematically,
1000m filament will weight 1 gram, which is also 9
denier
Again we know, if 1000m filaments weight 1 gram, it is
said to be 1Tex
So from the ‘linear mass density of fibers’ point of view
9 denier = 1.0000 tex
1 denier = 0.1111 tex
From above T= D × 0.1111
Or T = (5315/C) 0.1111 Or T = 590.5/C
Or T× C = 590.5
C = 5315/D or D = 5315/C
C× D = 5315

14. H
OH
H
H
OH
OH
H
OH
CH2OH
H
B. Glucose
H
O
H
H
OH
OH
H
CH2OH
H
Repeating unit B. Glucose
H
H
H
OH
OH
H
OH
CH2OH
O
H
H
CH2OH
H
H
O
O
OH
OH
H
O
n
CELLULOSE

15. WHAT ARE MAN MADE FIBER?
A class name for various fibers (filaments) synthetically produced
from fiber- forming substances.
The first group, of which rayon and acetate are examples, are
produced by regenerating and modifying natural fiber- forming
material such as cellulose.
The second group, frequently called synthetics and including such
fibers as nylon and polyester, are produced from synthetic
chemicals.
The third group, produce from inorganic materials, is known as
carbon, glass and ceramic fibers.

16. The man-made fibers, derived from naturally occurring polymers are
known as regenerated fibers. For instance rayon and acetate are made
of the same cellulose polymers that make up cotton. Example of
regenerated fibers is Viscose, Cupro, Acetate, Lyocell, Alginate, Modal
etc.
Synthetic fibers is the another group of man-made fibers. Synthetic
fibers are made of polymers that do not occur naturally. They are
produced entirely in the chemical plant or laboratory, almost always
from by product of petroleum. Example of synthetic fibers is Polyester,
Polyamide, Polyvinyl , Acrylic, Polyethylene etc.
 A high softening point
 Solubility or melting ability for spinning
 Adequate tensile strength
 A high modulus or stiffness

17. Figure: Cellulose based polymers
When X represent hydrogen, the polymer is Glucose.
The rayon fiber can be formed by converting the –OH groups
to xanthate groups
(e.g.-OC(S) SNa .
Cell-Xanthate
H
H
n
CH2OX
H
H
OXOX
OX
H
S
SNa
Cell-O-C

18. Substitution of –OH groups by acetyl groups (-OC(O)CH3), than the polymer is
called acetate.
Cell-OX + 2(Acetate groups) =Cell-Acetate
Cell-OX + 3(Acetate groups) = Cell-Tri-acetate
Olefins(alkenes), a family of hydrocarbon compounds which are produced
from the refining of petroleum and natural gas contains one double bond
between two carbon atoms.The chemical formula can be represented as
CH2=CHR, with R representing any of several possible atoms or groups of
atoms in the repeating unit of a polymer.The compound has the following
chemical structure as shown in the figure.
CHCH2
R
n
Polyolefins
When R represented as –CH3 group, then the polymer is called
Polypropylene.
It has moderately high melting point (176°C) that can be melt spun into
fiber useful for several types of clothing, upholstery, carpets and non
woven fabrics.

19. When R is hydrogen the polymer is polyethylene.A relatively
low melting material(137°C) that finds uses as a fiber in
industrial application
–e.g. non-woven fabrics- but not in most household
application.
When R represents a cyano , or nitrite, group (-C= N),
containing carbon and nitrogen linked by a triple bond. In this
case the polymer obtained is polyacrylonitrial, an acrylic
That does not melt without decomposition and therefore
must be solution spun into fibers used in clothing, drapes,
and carpets.
It is observed from the structure variation that the methyl
and cyano groups in polypropylene and polyacrylonitrile raise
melting points.

20. Most synthetic and cellulosic manufactured fibers are created by
“extrusion” forcing a thick, various liquid through the tiny holes of a
device called a spinning to form continuous filaments of semi-solid
polymer.
In their initial state, the fiber-forming polymers are solids and
therefore must be first converted into a fluid state for extrusion.This
is usually achieved by melting, if the polymers are thermoplastic
synthetics (i.e. ,they soften and melt when heated), or by dissolved
them in a suitable solvent if they are non-thermoplastic cellulosic. If
they cannot be dissolve or melted directly, they must be chemically
treated to form soluble or thermoplastic derivatives.
Fundamentals of Man- made Fiber Production

21. The manufacturing of fibers from natural or synthetic polymer involves the
following technical operations:
Preparation of spinning fluid from solid polymer or directly from
monomers.
Spinning:
• Extrusion of spinning fluid through spinnerets,
• Emerging fluid jets into filaments of required thickness,
• Solidification of polymer material,
•And collection the obtained filaments on a suitable mechanical device (
rotating bobbin, centrifuge, wind up package etc.)
Mechanical, thermal and chemical treatment of the fibers to improve
their properties.

22. There are typically three types of spinning for polymers- Melt, Dry and Wet.
In melt spinning the fiber forming material is melted and extruded through
spinneret, and the jets harden into solid filaments as they cool on emerging
from the spinneret, Nylon is a melt-spun fiber.
In dry spinning the fiber forming is dissolve in a solvent before the solution is
extruded. As the jets of the solution emerge from the spinneret, a stream of
hot air causes the solvent to evaporate from the spinning solution, leaving
the solid filament. Acetate is a dry spun by extruding acetone solution of
cellulose acetate into hot ho air.
In wet spinning them solution of fiber forming material is extruded into
coagulating bath that causes the jets to harden as a result of physical or
chemical changes.
V iscose, for example of wet spun.

23. Fig: Diagram of Melt, Dry,Wet Spinning

24. Features melt dry Wet
Investment cost low High Low
Hazard Non-toxic Toxic(risk of
expolsion)
Toxic
Heat of spinning High High Low
Spinneret hole 2 to many
thousand
300-900 20,000-75,000
Spinning speed 2500-3000
ft/min
2500-3000
ft/min
150-300 ft/min

25. Wood contains other substance like lignin, beside cellulose. So it is
purified, treated with caustic soda, which converts it into alkali
cellulose, then treated with carbon disulphide, which converts it into
sodium cellulose xanthate & then dissolved in dilute solution of caustic
soda.The solution is then ripened & then spun into an acid coagulating
bath, which precipitate the cellulose in the form of a viscose filament.
Cell-OH + NaOH Cell-O- Na+
Cell-O- Na+ + CS2 Cell-O-C S
S- Na+
Cell-O-C H2SO4
S- Na+
S + Cell-OH
Cellulose, Soda cellulose, Sodium cellulose Xanthate, Regenerated Cellulose.

26. Preparation of the wood pulp
Conditioning of wood pulp
Steeping (Formation of soda cellulose)
Shredding (Cutting)
Ageing
Churning (Xanthation or sulphidising)
Mixing (Dissolving)
Ripening
Spinning
Wind up/Cutting

28. LikeViscose, Cuprammonium Rayon is also a regenerated cellulose fiber.
Cotton Linters are used as the source of cellulose for this rayon.
Cuprammonium solution
AmmoniacalCopper Oxide solution, known as Cuprammonium Hydroxide
solution[Cu(NH3)4(OH)2] is obtained by pouring a solution of Ammonia in
water over Copper turnings, at 5 ͦC.
A solution of Copper Sulphate (CuSO4.5H2O) is mixed with caustic soda to
formCopper Hydroxide.
CuSO4 + NaOH Cu(OH)2
Purified and bleached cotton linters are added and stirred.
The copper cellulose thus formed may be stored for a long time. The liquor
is filtered off. The deaearated cellulose solution is ready for spinning.
Cuprammonium cellulose solution is discharged from the spinneret into a
solution of sulfuric acid in the form of relatively thick threads which are
subsequently stretched to very fine filaments by a rapid pull.

29. Viscose
Acetate
Cupro
Properties
Fiber
Tensile strength
(GPD)
Moisture absorption Density
(1.5-2.4) at dry
(0.2-1.2) at wet
Absorb moisture at
70 F & 65% Rh
13%
1.5 gm/cc.
(1.1-1.3) at dry
(0.65-0.75) at wet
Moisture absorb
6.5% at 65% Rh
(1.7-2.3) at dry
( 1.1-1.35) at wet
12.5% under
standard condition
The
filament are
available in
1.3 denier
Continuous
filament 1.5-
5.5 denier

30. Properties
Fiber
Tensile strength
(GPD)
Moisture absorption Density
Nylon 6
Nylon 6/6
Polyester
4.2-5.8 4% 1.14
gm/cc
4.3-8.8 (4-4.5)% 1.14
gm/cc