Yuri and katrin shumakov oriland balloon ride

www.oriland.com Oriland Balloon Ride - page 1

Contents
ORILAND BALLOON RIDE is a book from Origami Sky Series by Oriland authors that will
teach you how to create fabulous origami hot air balloons of various shapes from the classic
"inverted tear drop" balloons to the sophisticated round balloons à la Montgolfier!
Begin your origami balloon adventure! Do-It-Yourself – fold these fantastic Oriland designs,
originally created by Yuri and Katrin Shumakov – Hot Air Balloon (Outside Top Lock), Square
Basket, 1-Piece Hot Air Balloon (Outside Top Lock), 1-Piece Tubby Balloon (Outside Top Lock),
Hot Air Balloon (Inside Top Lock), 1-Piece Hot Air Balloon (Inside Top Lock), 1-Piece Tubby Balloon
(Inside Top Lock), Montgolfier Balloon (8-Module Envelope), Round Basket, Montgolfier Balloon
(4-Module Envelope), Montgolfier Balloon (1-Piece Envelope). The components of balloons are
folded and connected together without any glue, just using paper locks. Among these designs,
there are balloon envelopes on all tastes - multi-piece and one-piece.
As a bonus this book offers an original printable colour pattern, especially designed for the
Montgolfier Balloon (8-Module Envelope) to get a marvelous balloon colouring that resembles the
Montgolfier brothers’ historic balloon!
As a preamble to the theme this book offers authors’ article ‘Origami Balloon Intro’, which sheds
light on Oriland balloon designs and its different variations and gives practical advises. There are
760 detailed step-by-step colorful diagrams with extensive comments, placed on 164 pages that
will guide you through folding the 11 original origami designs of the Oriland style. The ‘Photo
Gallery’ section shows you pictures of all the designs presented in the book. The 'Origami Symbols'
section is explaining international origami symbols to help you to read diagrams for folding. In each
article, there are recommendations on paper size and indication to the model size resulting from
the size of starting paper. The models are intermediate and complex level of folding as shown by
stars in the book and are a good challenge for the novice folder and the expert alike. Happy folding!
Introduction and Copyright Notice.......
Photo Gallery.......................................
Origami Symbols.................................
Origami Balloon Intro...........................
Hot Air Balloon (Outside Top Lock)..........
Square Basket.....................................
1-Piece Balloon (Outside Top Lock)....
1-PieceTubby Balloon (OutsideTop Lock)..
2
3
5
6
14
42
52
70
Hot Air Balloon (Inside Top Lock)........
1-Piece Balloon (Inside Top Lock)....
1-PieceTubbyBalloon(InsideTopLock).....
MontgolfierBalloon(8-ModuleEnvelope)..
Round Basket....................................
Printable Colour Pattern for Montgolfier..
MontgolfierBalloon(4-ModuleEnvelope)....
Montgolfier Balloon (1-Piece Envelope)....
71
96
108
110
139
153
156
159
Introduction
Oriland Balloon Ride. Origami Sky Series. Copyright©2012 by Yuri and Katrin Shumakov. All rights
reserved. No part of this book may be used or reproduced in any manner whatsoever without
written permission except in the case of brief quotations embodied in critical articles and reviews.
For information, address info@oriland.com
This book is available exclusively in electronic format as a portable document format (PDF) file.
The product can be purchased exclusively through www.oriland.com
Any other ways of obtaining this book are considered illegal.
Publisher: Oriland.com
Product Format: e-Book
Pages: 164
Date published: 2012/09/27
ISBN: 978-1-926834-27-6
Contents: 11 origami-designs
Price: US$12.50
Copyright Notice
NOTE: The diagrams from this book
may be printed out only for personal
use, and may not be redistributed
or republished in any way without
the express written consent of the
creator. For information, address
info@oriland.com
Please remember that by buying items in Oriland Store you’re directly supporting
future Oriland’s projects, as well as Oriland’s development itself. Thank you!
Photos, texts, diagrams,
cover design:
Katrin and Yuri Shumakov

Top Lock
Basket
Envelope Skirt
(Bottom Lock)
Balloon Envelope
Origami Balloon Structure
Photo Gallery
p. 14
Hot Air Balloon
(Outside Top Lock)
p. 52
1-Piece Hot Air Balloon
(Outside Top Lock)
p. 96
1-Piece Hot Air Balloon
(Inside Top Lock)
p. 70
1-Piece Tubby Balloon
(Outside Top Lock)
p. 71
Hot Air Balloon
(Inside Top Lock)
p. 42
Square Basket
Origami Balloon Intro
p. 6

p. 110
Montgolfier Balloon
(8-Module Envelope)
p. 108
1-Piece Tubby Balloon
(Inside Top Lock)
p. 139
Round Basket
Montgolfier Balloon
(4-Module Envelope)
Montgolfier Balloon
(1-Piece Envelope)
Printable Colour Pattern
for Montgolfier Balloon
(8-Module Envelope)
p. 153
p. 156
p. 159

Simple
Simple-Medium
Medium
Medium-Complex
Complex
Level of folding
Valley fold
Mountain fold
Valley fold and unfold
Mountain fold and unfold
Open and squash
Step fold
Pull out
Push in. Sink
Turn the paper over
Turn the paper around
Inside reverse fold
Outside reverse fold
Enlarging the following diagram
Reduction the following diagram
Fold the paper over and over X-ray view
Origami Symbols
These simple origami symbols will help you to read diagrams of folding.
The system of levels of folding is more as a
guide line, an approximate approach just to orient
you and mostly depends of your skills in paper
folding. If you are a novice, even the simple level
can be challenging for you. And if you are already
a connoisseur even a complex model can be
simple for you.

Let us introduce origami balloon designs presented in this book. First, it will be important to say
that all of them are based on an original balloon design created in far 1998 by Yuri Shumakov, one
of Oriland creators. The very first Oriland Hot Air Balloon was displayed at the same year of 1998
on Oriland creators’ exhibition “Miracles from Paper”, “flying” over Oriville Castle of the very first
Oriland Kingdom. Also this balloon made its appearance in first virtual Oriland galleries on the
Internet, including the award-winning site “Travel to Oriland” (1999) where an image of this origami
balloon was flying across the screen, surprising all the visitors with miracles of Internet technology
of that time as well as miracles of origami!
Origami Balloons Intro
The shapes of balloon envelopes rendered in these
origami designs can be divided on the traditional "inverted
tear drop" shape (from the elongate conical to tubby
conical versions) and the round shape.
Elongate Conical Shape
(16-section Hot Air Balloon)
Tubby Conical Shape
(21-section Hot Air Balloon)
Round Shape (24-section
Montgolfier Balloon)
All the origami balloon designs in this
book have a similar structure: each
consists of a Balloon Envelope and a
Basket. The bottom part of the envelope
is referred to as the skirt. The balloon
envelope has a Top Lock and a Bottom
Lock at the Envelope Skirt. The
components of balloons are folded and
connected together without any glue, just
using paper locks.
There are two types of baskets presented
with these origami balloons - Square
Basket, used for all the Hot Air Balloon
versions and Round Basket, used for all
the Montgolfier Balloons.
The balloon envelopes presented in this
book can be grouped by shapes, types
of locks, quantity of pieces of paper and
quantity of sections.
Shapes of Balloon Envelopes
Top Lock
Basket
Envelope Skirt
(Bottom Lock)
Balloon Envelope
Square Basket Round Basket
Balloon Baskets
Origami Balloon Structure
Balloon Envelopes

Outside Top Lock
Inside Top Lock
Skirt Lock
(Bottom Lock)
There are different types of locks used in the presented designs of balloon envelopes, but they
can be divided on two main groups: Top Locks and Skirt Lock (Bottom Lock).
The Bottom Lock also
called here Skirt Lock is
universal for all the
balloons presented in this
book. So once you
comprehended its folding
in one model, it should be
easy to perform this lock
for other models.
Skirt Lock (Bottom Lock)
on 24-section Montgolfier Balloon
Skirt Lock (Bottom Lock)
on 15-section Hot Air Balloon
As for the top locks they differ in
complexity and the final visual result.
Relatively simple in folding is the Outside
Top Lock shown in the article “Hot Air
Balloon (Outside Top Lock)” in great
detail. The lock creates a pretty circle on
the top of the balloon envelope, which is
looking especially nice when two-colour
paper is used for this balloon. We do
recommend starting your balloon folding
adventure from this design.18-section Hot Air Balloon
(Outside Top Lock)
18-section Hot Air Balloon
(Inside Top Lock)
The Inside Top Lock minutely shown in
the article “Hot Air Balloon (Inside Top
Lock)” is more complex in folding since
the process of locking is taking place
inside the balloon. This is a rather robust
lock that is completely hidden on the
finished design and provides a small
aperture and an appealing visual pattern
of balloon sections on the top. It’s
advisable to take strong paper because
this inside top lock adds an extra stress
to the upper edge of paper used for the
balloon envelope; in case of weak or
dried-up paper the edge may tear a bit
during the locking. You may reinforce the
edge of paper as advised in a practical
tip given in the afore-mentioned article.
Top and Bottom Locks of Balloon Envelopes

Skirt-like
Inside Top Lock
This type of the Inside Top Lock
is based on the same principle
as the Skirt Lock (Bottom Lock).
It is used for the Montgolfier
balloon designs and shown in
great detail in the article
“Montgolfier Balloon (8-Module
Envelope)”. To the moment when
you learned various designs from
this book, it will be no problem
to comprehend this lock, but the
fact that the lock is on the inside
of the balloon adds complexity.
This Skirt-like Inside Top Lock
can be used for designs of Hot
Air Balloons presented in this
book also, but be aware that the
less sections in the balloon the
more complex the locking
process will be. Although we don’t
show this specific type of Skirt-
like Inside Top Lock for Hot Air
Balloons in the book, you may
try if you want, but it’s advisable
that you master the Montgolfier
Balloon first.Skirt-like Inside Top Lock
on 24-section Montgolfier Balloon
(8-module Envelope)
Skirt-like Inside Top Lock
on 15-section Hot Air Balloon
Considering the quantity of pieces of paper used, there are two
main types of balloon envelopes - multi-piece and one-piece. We’ll
show the examples here grouping them in connection with the
quantity of sections of balloon envelopes.
The Montgolfier Balloon designs with the multi-piece envelope in
this book, no matter how many modules in them, have the fixed
quantity of sections – 24 to maintain its round shape. There is a
version with 8-module envelope, where each module folded from
a rectangle, 1:2 in proportion. And the other Montgolfier Balloon
version with the multi-piece envelope presented in the book has
4 modules, each module folded from a square.
The designs of Hot Air Balloon with the multi-piece balloon envelope
presented in the book have another story. These can be folded
from several balloon modules with the different number of sections.
The quantity of balloon modules (each folded from a rectangle,
1:2 in proportion) may vary from 5 to 8 to receive a desired balloon
shape from an elegant 15-section balloon to a tubby 24-section
balloon. The balloon modules may overlap by 1 or 2 sections. In
the book, the balloon assembly is shown on an example of an 18-
section balloon, folded from 6 balloon modules that overlap by 1
section, but you can extrapolate the principle on any variation
presented here. Despite types of top locks - outside or inside,
designs of Hot Air Balloons are using practically the same balloon
module with just some minor difference in the final folding steps,
so the following variations apply to both types of designs.
24-section Montgolfier Balloon
(4-module Envelope)
Multi-Piece Balloon Envelopes
Multi-Piece and One-Piece Balloon Envelopes

Overlap by 2 sections
15-section 5-piece Balloon Envelope
(5 modules (1:2), 1-section overlap)
(Inside Top Lock)
(Inside Top Lock)
Overlap by 1 section
The 15-section balloon is having the slim and elegant
classic shape. It works well for all types of the top lock –
outside top lock and inside top lock.
To incorporate more colours you may overlap modules by 2 sections. For instance, using
8 modules will result in the 16-section balloon envelope. Although it works well for both
types of the top lock, it’s better to use with the inside top lock.

+
+
LETTERorA4
(4 modules (1:2 1sec), 1-section overlap)
(Inside Top Lock)
LETTER
(4 modules (1:2 2sec), 1-section overlap)
(Inside Top Lock)
When you need a balloon envelope made of 4 modules, you may use for them rectangles that
have 1 extra section, which will be used for overlapping. So you’ll need 4 rectangles, 5:8 in
proportion each. For instance, you may efficiently use any standard format of paper, Letter or A4,
to yield a rectangle 5:8, as shown.
To do that, first, mark a maximum rectangle 1:2 on Letter or A4 and fold it in 4 equal vertical
sections. After that, project one extra section and then cut the resulted rectangle.
This variation works well for all
types of the top lock – outside
top lock and inside top lock.
Also for a 4-module balloon envelope, you may use for each module a rectangle that has 2 extra
sections, one of which will be used for overlapping. It will result in a 20-section balloon. You’ll need
4 rectangles, 6:8 in proportion each. For instance, you may efficiently use a standard paper of
Letter format to yield a rectangle 6:8, as shown. To do that, first, mark a maximum rectangle 1:2
on Letter and fold it in 4 equal vertical sections. After that, project two extra sections and then cut
the resulted rectangle. This variation works well for both types of the top lock – outside and inside.
1extrasection2extrasections

(Inside Top Lock)
(Inside Top Lock)
In the both articles - “Hot Air Balloon (Outside Top Lock)” and “Hot Air Balloon (Inside Top Lock)”
- the balloon assembly is shown on an example of an 18-section balloon, folded from 6 balloon
modules that overlap by 1 section. This is a very good balanced shape for the balloon, not slim
already, but not tubby yet.
Of course, you may incorporate more modules to get a tubby shape of the balloon. For instance,
the 21-section balloon is looking quite cute. It works well for all types of the top lock, but it’s better
to use with the inside top lock, as the top aperture will remain small with this type of the top lock.

Overlap by 2 sections
(Inside Top Lock)
24-section Hot
Air Balloon
(Inside Top
Lock)
You may receive a cute tubby balloon with 21 sections,
if using 3 squares for balloon modules that overlap
by 1 section. Fold them in the same way as regular
balloon modules, only using squares.
T h e t u b b y
balloons work
well for all types
of the top lock,
but with the
inside top lock
you will get the
top aperture
relatively small
in size, and with
the outside top
lock - wider one.
You also may use 8 standard modules (1:2) with
1 section overlapping to get the 24-section balloon.
The 24-section
balloon can be
received with 4
balloon modules
folded from squares
that overlap by 2
sections, as shown.
Fold them in the
same way as
regular balloon
modules, only using
squares.

The Authors, Katrin and Yuri Shumakov
Each version of balloon envelopes presented in this book can be folded from a single piece of
paper.
(outside Top Lock)
(Inside Top Lock)
(Inside Top Lock)
23-section Montgolfier
Balloon
The one-piece envelope of the Montgolfier
Balloon folds from a rectangle, 1:3 in
proportion, which results in 23-section balloon.
Of course, you may use a rectangle between these
proportions; say, adding a required number of
sections to a rectangle, 1:2 in proportion, to get a
one-piece balloon of a desired shape.
Large-size origami paper and colour copy paper can be used for
most of the multi-piece designs. For 1-piece envelope balloons
you may use gift wrapping paper (not too thin), even holographic
foil paper that comes in rolls. Many fine Japanese papers can be
used as well such as Chiyogami paper. Actually you may
experiment with any paper that is sturdy, thin, with fine finish. You
even can use craft paper or thicker art paper for a large scale
model. You may use posters or maps to get quite a unique
appearance of balloons.
Also try our printable colour pattern for the Montgolfier Balloon
(8-module Envelope), presented in this book.
The designs of Hot Air Balloon with the one-piece
balloon envelope presented in the book can be
folded from a rectangle, 1:2 in proportion, to get a
15-section balloon, as well as from a rectangle, 1:3
in proportion, resulting in a 23-section balloon of a
tubby shape.
24-section Montgolfier Balloon
(colour pattern printed on paper)
Enjoy this book with all the presented designs and have fun folding
the whole fleet of origami balloons! Happy folding!
One-Piece Balloon Envelopes
Recommended Paper

Hot Air Balloon (Outside Top Lock) © 1998 Yuri and Katrin Shumakov - page 1
The balloon envelope folds from several balloon
modules, each folded from a rectangle, 1:2 in
proportion. The square basket folds from a square
with a side that is 3/4 of the short side of the rectangle
used for the balloon module.
The quantity of balloon modules may vary from 5 to
8 to receive a desired balloon shape from an elegant
15-section balloon to a tubby 24-section balloon. The
balloon modules may overlap by 1 or 2 sections.
The finished model will be
measuring a bit more than 3/4
of the tall side of the initial
rectangle used for the balloon
module, as pictured.
We will show here the 18-section balloon, as pictured,
folded from 6 balloon modules that overlap by 1 section.
Hot Air Balloon (Outside Top Lock)
This modular version of Hot Air Balloon consists of a modular balloon envelope with the outside
top lock and a 1-piece square basket.
by Yuri and Katrin Shumakov
In case of standard copy paper either Letter or A4 format, use its
height to maximum.
Letter format: use 11 x 5 1/2 inches rectangles for balloon modules
and a 4 1/8-inch square for a basket to receive the finished model
about 8 3/4 inches high.
A4: use 30 x 15 cm rectangles for balloon modules and an 11.3-cm
square for a basket to receive the finished model about 23 cm high.
Balloon Modules
Basket
Suggested paper: regular origami
paper, colour copy paper. Also you
may experiment with any paper that is
sturdy, thin, with fine finish. You even
can use craft paper or thicker art paper
for a large scale model.
Suggested sizes: In case of origami paper, use
a 10-inch (25 cm) size to get the rectangles 10 x
5 inches (25 x 12.5 cm) in size; respectively use
a 3 3/4 -inch (9.4 cm) square for a basket. In this
case the finished model will be about 7 1/2 inches
(18.5 cm) high.
To hang such origami Hot Air Balloon you will need a piece of line
and a little rectangular piece of paper about 1:2 or 1:3 in proportion,
which in length is a bit less than the balloon diameter.

Balloon Module (from 1:2 rectangle)
If using two-color paper, begin with colored side up in portrait position.
Valley fold the
rectangle in half
from bottom to
top, press the fold
flat and open it up. Now valley fold the
rectangle in half
from side to side,
press the fold flat
and unfold it up.
Valley fold the left
and right-hand
edges to meet the
middle fold-line,
press the folds flat
and unfold them.
Then turn the
paper over.
Divide each vertical section in
half by valley folding, thereby
making 8 equal vertical sections.
Now fold the one vertical
section of the right-hand edge
along the existing fold-line.
Working with the
upper and lower
right corners, make
the diagonal fold-
lines over two
layers of this
vertical section by
valley folding, as
s h o w n . T h e n ,
unfold the front flap.
This should be the result. Now fold 3 vertical
sections of the right-hand edge along the
existing fold-line and repeat step 6.
Repeat steps 5-7 as in
mirror for the left-hand side.
This should
be the result.
1
2
3
4
5
8
7
6

Next 4 steps from 9 to 12 are showing an
efficient way to fold the top and bottom
edges shown in step 13. But if you’d like,
you may jump to step 13 from here.
Fold the left-
and right-
hand sections
as shown.
This should
be the result.
Then turn the
paper over.
Working with the top,
separate the front layer
and valley fold it as shown,
as far as it will go. Then
repeat for the bottom part.
Unfold the top and
bottom flaps and the
side sections, therefore
unfolding the paper
completely.
Along the fold-lines made
in step 11, valley fold the
top and bottom edges, as
shown.
Valley fold the rectangle
in half from top to bottom.
Separate the front flap
and valley fold it up to
meet the top edge.
This should be the result.
Now valley fold the
bottom edge up to meet
the central horizontal line
(which is the lower edge
of the front flap), so the
dots coincide, press the
fold flat and unfold it.
Unfold the front
flap up, as shown.
Now working with 2
upper horizontal
sections, divide each
of them in half by
‘valley’ folding, so the
dots coincide.
10
9
11
12
13
14
15
16
17
18

This should be the
result. Unfold the
lower horizontal flap.
Working with the selected 3 horizontal
sections at the upper part, make
diagonal “mountain” folds as shown.
It’s convenient to work “in the air”,
successively pinching a needed
diagonal in each rectangle.
This should be the
result. Now re-fold the
upper parts of the
selected vertical fold-
lines into the ‘valleys’.Now re-fold the most
upper parts of the
selected vertical
fold-lines into the
‘mountains’. Then
turn the paper over.
Working with the selected
horizontal section at the lower
part, make diagonal “mountain”
folds as shown. It’s convenient
to work “in the air”, successively
pinching a needed diagonal in
each rectangle. Then turn the
paper over.
19
20
21
22
23

This should be the result. Check out
all the ‘mountain’ and ‘valley” lines
and then carefully pleat the paper
according these lines.
Here is the profile of the
resulted pleated paper.
The form now is rather 3D, so the following folding
process is shown in a photo-diagram style.
Check out all the folds.
The other side.
The balloon module
is ready!
24
25
26
27
28

We will show the assembly of the 18-section balloon, as pictured,
folded from 6 balloon modules that overlap by 1 section.
Assembly of 18-section Balloon Envelope
(from 6 Balloon Modules)
For this particular balloon we used regular origami
paper - the rectangles 10 x 5 inches (25 x 12.5
cm) in size for balloon modules.
The colours scheme used is a classic rainbow.
6 spectral colours work great for this design,
namely: red, orange, yellow, green, blue, and
violet. So you will need one balloon module per
colour.
It’s also possible to use just 2 complementary
colours like red and green, blue and orange,
yellow and violet. In this case your will need 3
balloon modules of each colour.
So prepare the balloon modules and diligently follow the assembly
instructions that shown in a great detail with step-by-step photo-
diagrams and written comments.

Get ready all the balloon modules in an
appropriate order, in our case it’s 6 modules.
6541 2 3
This should be the result. The 1st and 2nd
modules are connected. Turn the paper over.
Take the first two modules and place the one
double section of the 2nd module atop the 1st
one, aligning paper along the folds and hence
overlapping the 1st module.
Note that the flap of the 2nd module should
envelop the flap of 1st module, as pictured.
So now when all the folds are aligned, compress
the connected modules gently together and then
release them.
Back view. Be sure that the overlapping sections
of the connected modules are well aligned. Return
the paper in the previous position.
1 2
1 2
3 4
5 6

Here are the connected 1st and 2nd modules.
Be sure that the overlapping sections of the
connected modules are well aligned.
Now add the 3rd module, placing it atop of the
2nd module, aligning paper along the folds of
one double section and hence overlapping the
2nd module.
The flap of the 3rd module should envelop the
flap of 2nd module, as pictured.
Now add the 4th module in the same way as
explained before.
Here are the connected 1st, 2nd and 3rd modules.
1 2 31 2
1 2 3 41 2 3
109
87
11 12

Here are the connected 1st, 2nd, 3rd and 4th
modules.
Here are the connected 1st, 2nd, 3rd, 4th and
5th modules. Don’t forget to gently compress the
connected modules together when you added
the next module.
Compress the connected modules gently together
and then release them.
Now add the 5th module in the same way as
explained before.
This should be the result. Check all the connection
so that the flaps envelop each next one correctly.
And finally add the 6th module in the same way
as explained before.
6541 2 3
541 2 3541 2 3
41 2 3
13 14
15 16
17 18

Here are all the connected modules - 1st, 2nd,
3rd, 4th, 5th and 6th.
Compress the lower part of the paper as shown
in next step. Be sure to keep all the overlapped
folds in their places as you compress the paper.
Gently compress the connected modules together
and then release them.
This should be the result. Turn the paper around.
Now, it looks as if you are holding a fan. Turn the
paper around, so the squeezed part is on the
top.
This should be the result. Keeping the lower part
squeezed, turn the paper over into the position
shown in the next step.
6541 2 3
19 20
21 22
23 24

This should be the result. Now we are ready to
work with the squeezed part in order to do a
balloon’s bottom lock.
In the process... fold the edge down along the
existing fold-lines, squeezing the sides of this
section.
The marked place is shown enlarged in the
following steps.
Keeping the most part of the paper squeezed
atop, stretch the right-hand side a bit, as shown.
Now working with the second double section,
fold its edge down along the existing fold-lines,
as pictured.
This should be the result. Now along the existing
fold-lines, valley fold the upper edge of the section,
bringing it into the position, shown in the next
step.
This should be the result. Now compress the 2
double sections as shown.
25 26
27 28
29 30

In the process... Fold down this triangular flap,
thereby locking two sections together.
Working with this double section, fold its edge
down along the existing fold-lines, as pictured,
repeating step 30 for this double section, thereby
locking two neighbouring sections together.
This should be the result. Now compress the
folds to secure the lock.
This should be the result. Now open the folds in
the next double section as pictured in the next
step.
In the process... Make sure that the layers are
adjusted each other and continue to fold down
this triangular flap, thereby making a lock.
In the process... Note that this section contains
two layers as it is situated on the overlapped part
of the two modules.
31 32
33 34
35 36

This should be the result. Now fold the left-hand
flap, thereby closing this section.
Valley fold the upper edge of the section down,
thereby locking two neighbouring sections
together.
This should be the result. Again along the existing
fold-lines, valley fold the upper edge of the section
down, thereby locking two neighbouring sections
together.
This should be the result. Now fold the left-hand
flap to the right to work with the next section.
Note that this section contains two layers as it is
an overlapped part of the two modules. Be sure
the layers are well aligned. Then along the existing
fold-lines valley fold the upper edge of the section
down, thereby locking it.
This should be the result. Fold the left-hand flap
to the right to work with the next section.
37 38
39 40
41 42

This should be the result. When a few sections
are locked, it’s good to compress the all the
layers together to secure the folds. So bring all
the flaps together.
Compress the flaps to secure the folds. After that,
open out the next section to work with.
This should be the result. Again along the existing
fold-lines, valley fold the upper edge of the section
together.
This should be the result. Don’t forget to compress
the flaps to secure the folds from time to time.
Then, open out the next section to work with.
Valley fold the upper edge of the section down,
together.
43 44
45 46
47 48

Note that, this section contains two layers as it
is an overlapped part of the two modules. Be
sure the layers are well aligned and then along
the existing fold-lines, valley fold the upper edge
of the section down, thereby locking it.
Fold the left-hand flap to the right to work with
the next section.
Along the existing fold-lines, valley fold the upper
edge of the section down, thereby locking two
neighbouring sections together.
Compress the flaps to secure the folds. Then,
This should be the result. Along the existing fold-
lines, valley fold the upper edge of the section
together. And then, bring all the flaps together.
49 50
51 52
53 54

This should be the result. Valley fold the upper
Fold the left-hand flap to the right to bring all the
flaps together.
Compress the flaps to secure the folds. Then,
Just a couple of flaps left! Valley fold the upper
edge of the section down along the existing fold-
lines, thereby locking two neighbouring sections
together.
55 56
57 58
59 60

Valley fold the upper edge of the section down
along the existing fold-lines, thereby locking two
Fold the left-hand flap to the right to work with
the next section.
And now making the last lock, valley fold the
upper edge of the section down along the existing
fold-lines, thereby locking two neighbouring
sections together. Note, the last section will remain
unlocked.
This should be the result. And fold the left-hand
flap to the right to work with the next section.
61 62
63 64
65 66

All the necessary locks are ready. Compress the
flaps to secure the folds.
This should be the result. Check out that all the
modules on the top are aligned well.
Turn the model around, so that the locked part
located in the top.
This should be the result. Note, the side sections
have to remain unlocked. Stretch out the lower
part a little – it does remind of a sundress, isn’t
it?
This should be the result. Now turn the model
over.
Starting from the top, superimpose the right-hand
section onto the left-hand section, so that the
folds of layers coincide with each other.
Move sides closer together, as we are going to
connect the side sections.
67 68
69 70
71 72

In the process… Apply the top part of the right-
hand section onto the left-hand section…
This should be the result. Now turn the model
around.
In the process… Be sure all the folds coincide.
As soon as the top part is aligned, continue to
superimpose the right-hand section onto the left-
hand section further. Be sure that the left-hand
section is not folded inside and that the fold of
both sections are coinciding.
Insert the upper layer under the flap atop as far
as it will go and be sure that all the folds of the
overlapped sections coincide.
This should be the result. To continue
superimposing the sections, you have to insert
the upper layer under the flap atop, as shown.
73 74
75 76
77 78

This should be the result. Gently, according to
the existing fold-lines, bring the top of the
overlapping sections to join the other folds at the
balloon’s upper centre.
This should be the result. This is how the balloon’s
upper centre should look like at this point. Turn
the model around to finish the bottom lock of the
balloon.
In the process… When all folds of the overlapped
sections are perfectly aligned, the paper will be
almost automatically finding its way in the correct
position.
In the process… Gently bring the top of the
Before working with the last lock, make sure that
the layers of the overlapped sections are aligned
and correct it if necessary.
This should be the result. The marked place is
shown enlarged in the following steps.
79 80
81 82
83 84

When the layers of the overlapped sections are
aligned, let’s make the last lock. Valley fold the
upper double-layered edge down along the
existing fold-lines.
Sink the corner in between the flaps, thereby
making the final lock of the bottom part of the
balloon.
to the right, closing this section.
Now separate the flaps of this section as shown.
To secure the folds of the lock, consistently
compress a few flaps together all around the
lock.
This should be the result. Now the bottom part
of the balloon is completely locked.
85 86
87 88
89 90

This should be the result. The bottom part of the
balloon is well locked.
Working the overlapped section marked as 1,
pinch the edge of the section and along the
existing fold-line valley fold the corner, as shown.
The side view of the balloon. Now turn the model
around to work with the upper lock of the balloon.
shown enlarged in the following steps. We will
start with the overlapped section (marked as 1)
that we connected the last in the bottom lock.
This should be the result. Continuing working
with this 1st section, valley fold the other corner
to meet the middle-line of this section, thereby
locking this section completely.
Press the fold flat; it’s locking this side of the
section.
1
1
1
91 92
93 94
95 96

This should be the result. Now compress the
folded edges of this section to secure the folds.
Working with the section, marked as 2, valley
fold the corners along the existing fold-lines, as
shown, and compress the folds well, thereby
locking this section.
In the process… Pinch the edges of the section
well and then release them.
The 1st section is locked. We will do locks on
every other section, ie on alternative sections.
So skip the next section that is adjoined with the
1st one and concentrate on the other following
section that is marked as 2.
This should be the result. The section marked
as 2 is locked. Now skip the next section to work
with the other section that is marked as 3.
1
2
2
1
2
3
3
1 2
1
1
97 98
99 100
101 102

This should be the result. The 3rd lock is
completed. Now skip the next section to work
Working on the 5th lock, valley fold the corners
along the existing fold-lines, as shown, and
compress the folds well, thereby locking this
section.
section.
This should be the result. The 4th lock is
section.
3
21
4
4
31
4
5
32
1
5
4
32
1
5
4
32
6
6
5
43
2
1
103 104
105 106
107 108

completed. Just three locks left to work with! Skip
the next section to work with the other section
that is marked as 7.
section.
section.
completed. Skip the next section to work with the
other section that is marked as 8.
Working on the 9th lock, valley fold the upper
corner along the existing fold-line, as shown.
completed. Skip the next section to work with the
other section that is marked as 9.
6
7
5
4
3
2
1
7
6
5
43
2
1
7
6
54
3
2
1
8
8
7
6
54
3
2
1
8
7
6
5
4
3
2 1
9
9
12
3
4
5
6
7
8
109 110
111 112
113 114

Continue with the 9th lock, valley fold the
remained corner along the existing fold-line.
Since it’s the last lock, there is a certain tension,
so try to keep the layers aligned. Compress the
folds well, thereby locking this last section.
The side view.
The 18-section balloon
envelope is ready!!!
This should be the result. All 9 locks are ready!
The top view. If needed secure the folds of the
locks one more time.
9
8
7
6
5
4
3
2 1
9
12
3
4
5 6
7
8
115 116
117
118

Take the paper stopper as well.Get your balloon ready, turned to you by the top
opening.
1 2
5
3
4
12
Take a piece of line (about 2 times longer that the height of the original rectangle used for the
balloon module) and a little rectangular piece of paper about 1:2 or 1:3 in proportion, which in
length is a bit less than the balloon diameter.
Paper Stopper
Fold in half again…
Tighten the lock. If you need
you may do another knot to
secure it even more.
The loop with the paper
stopper is ready.
The paper stopper is ready.
Tie the ends of the line in a
knot to make a loop.
Place the paper stopper atop
the knot part of the loop as
shown and bringing the other
end of the loop atop the folded
paper, thread it into the little
loop with the knot end.
Fold the rectangle
in half lengthways.
Attaching Line Loop with Paper Stopper

Insert the paper stopper into the top opening of
the balloon.
… until you see the paper stopper is stopped.
Push the end of the paper stopper deeper into
the balloon, but keep the line loop outside.
Pull out the line loop as far as it will go…
Now you can hang the balloon.This should be the result. The line loop is attached
to the balloon.
3 4
5
87
6

Hot Air Balloon: Square Basket © 1998 Yuri and Katrin Shumakov - page 29
If using two-color paper, begin with colored side up.
Valley fold the opposite
corners together, in
turn, to make the
diagonal fold lines, and
open them up. Then,
Basket
Balloon
Module
The square basket folds from a square with a side that is 3/4 of the
short side of the rectangle used for the balloon module.
Valley fold the opposite sides
together in both directions,
and open them up.
Press the midpoint of the square, until the
sides pop up. Bring the sides together and
down towards you. Press the top down
neatly into a square, thereby completing
the shape that, in origami, is called the
preliminary base.
Valley fold the lower sloping
edges over, so they lie along
the middle fold-line. Press
them flat and unfold them.
Repeat behind.
Valley fold the right-
hand flap over to the
left, as though turning
the page of a book.
Repeat behind.
Inside reverse fold the
right- and left-hand points
into the model along the
fold-lines made in step 4.
Repeat behind.
This should be the
result that, in
origami, is called
the bird base with
lowered flaps.
by Yuri Shumakov
1
2
3
4
5
7
6
Square Basket

Valley fold the lower sloping
edges over, so they lie along
the vertical middle line.
Press them flat.
Separate the layers of the right-
hand flap, open out and squash
it down neatly into the position
shown in step 10.
Separate the layers
of the left-hand flap,
open out and squash
it down neatly.
This should be
the result. Turn
the model over.
Repeat steps 8 to
10 for this side.Separate the layers as shown.
Valley fold the right-hand flap over
to the left, as though turning the
page of a book. Repeat behind.
Valley fold the lower
sloping edges over,
so they lie along the
middle fold-line.
Press them flat.
Repeat behind.
This should be the
result. Turn the
model around.
and fold it down, as
shown. We will make
some preliminary
folds on it.
Working with this flap, valley fold
the left-hand sloping edge to meet
the adjacent top edge of the flap,
make a limited fold-line, as shown,
and unfold it. Repeat the same
with the right-hand edge.
10
98
11
12
13
14
15
16
17

Working with the front flap,
fold it along the fold-line
made in step 17 and along
the middle-fold line to
bring it into the position
Fold the resulted
narrow flap to
the right.
Now fold the
tnarrow flap to
the left and
unfold it.
Open out the
narrow flap.
Turn the model over.
Separate the front
flap and fold it
down, as shown,
and repeat steps 17
to 21 for this flap.
Valley fold the right-hand
flap over to the left, as
though turning the page
of a book. Repeat behind.
Separate the front flap and
fold it down, as shown, and
repeat steps 17 to 21 for
this flap.
18
19
20
21
22
23
24
25

This should be the
result. Repeat steps
17 to 21 behind with
the remaining flap.
This should be the result. Lift
up the 4 flaps half way, so the
model opens and look like a
star when you look from top, as
shown in the next step. Turn
the model in this position.
Working with the centre
of the model, insert the
finger into the star-
shaped opening and fold
one of the soft stretched
edges into the corner,
securing the folds so its
edges are coincide with
the corner.
Now pinch the flaps along
the existing fold-lines,
shaping them into the
future supports that will
attach the basket to the
skirt of the balloon.
Fold the other soft
stretched edges into the
respective corners,
thereby making the
opening of the basket
square-shaped.
26
27
28
29
30

Shape the basket itself
from inside. Then bring
the supports upright.
Here is the completed square basket with
the upright rigid supports that will attach the
basket to the skirt of the balloon.
Optional Folds
In case you fold the large balloon model, you may
make the basket’s upright supports thinner.
Working along
the edge of the
upright support,
fold it in half as
shown.
Here is the completed
square basket with
the thinner upright
rigid supports.
31
32
33
34

Take the basket as shown. Fold the tip of the
front upright support in the same direction as that
narrow opening in the flap, because this tip will
be inserted into this opening later.
This should be the result. Note that the flap has
a narrow opening.
Repeat step 4 for each of the rest upright supports.
Keep the size of the tip and the direction of folding
the same for each upright support.
Take the balloon by the bottom lock turned toward
you. Open one of the flaps of the balloon skirt as
shown.
Get your balloon envelope (with a piece of line
attached to it) and the square basket ready.
3 4
5 6
1 2
Attaching Square Basket to Balloon Envelope

Now the basket is ready to be attached to the
balloon envelope.
In the process…
Insert the tip of the respective upright support
into the narrow opening of the opened flap as far
as it will go.
This should be the result. Position the tip in the
middle of the flap and then lock the flap, returning
it into the original position.
This is the opposite side of the balloon. Open
the middle flap of the balloon skirt as shown. And
then insert the tip of the respective upright support
into the narrow opening of the opened flap.
This should be the result. Now the tip of the
upright support is locked in the balloon skirt.
Next, turn the balloon around on 180 degrees to
get access to the opposite side.
87
109
11 12

Move the tip of the support into the narrow
opening as far as it will go. And then close the
flap, returning it into the original position.
This should be the result. Open the middle flap
of the balloon skirt as shown.
This should be the result. Now the second upright
support is locked in the balloon skirt.
Now turn the balloon around on 90 degrees to
get access to the marked side.
This should be the result. Next, turn the balloon
around on 180 degrees to get access to the
opposite side.
Insert the tip of the respective upright support
into the narrow opening of the opened flap. And
then close the flap, returning it into the original
position, thereby locking the tip in it.
13 14
15 16
17 18

This should be the result. Open the middle flap
of the balloon skirt as shown.
Now you may adjust the position of the basket,
moving tips of the upright supports in the
respective flaps up and down as desired.
Insert the tip of the last upright support into the
narrow opening of the opened flap. And then
close the flap, returning it into the original position,
thereby locking the tip in it.
By the way, next time, you can turn the balloon
upside down and in this position insert the tips
of the basket supports into the skirt or adjust the
position of the basket if needed.
19 20
21 22
23 24

Congratulation!!!
Your origami balloon is ready for take off!
That’s all – the basket is attached to the balloon
envelope.
Here is the completed multi-piece hot air balloon
with outside top lock!
25 26
27
28

This version of the balloon folds from a single piece paper. Use a rectangle 1:2 in proportion to
get a 15-section balloon of a classic shape. Using a rectangle, 1:3 in proportion, will result in a
23-section balloon of a tubby shape (see the end of this article for details).
The outside top lock and the bottom lock of the
balloon envelope folded in the same technique
as it was for multi-piece balloon shown before.
The design of the balloon envelope is having a
balloon skirt on the bottom, which may look like
a basket.
folded from a rectangle (a double square), 1:2 in proportion
that overlap by 1 section.
The finished model will be measuring – a bit less than 3/4
of the short side of the initial rectangle, as pictured.
One-Piece Hot Air Balloon (Outside Top Lock) © 1998 Yuri Shumakov - page 1
15-section Balloon (1:2 rectangle)
by Yuri Shumakov
One-Piece Hot Air Balloon
(Outside Top Lock)

Optionally, you may add a 1-piece
square basket to this model, just
like it was in the multi-piece balloon.
In this case, the square basket folds
from a square with a side that is 3/8
of the short side of the rectangle
used for the balloon.
Suggested paper: large-size origami paper, Chiyogami
paper, gift wrapping paper (not too thin). Also you may
experiment with any paper that is sturdy, thin, with fine
finish. You even can use craft paper or thicker art paper for
a large scale model.
To hang such origami Hot Air Balloon you will need a
piece of line and a little rectangular piece of paper about
1:2 or 1:3 in proportion, which in length is a bit less than
the balloon diameter.
In case of adding the basket,
the whole balloon will be a bit
more than 3/4 of the short
side of the initial rectangle.
Suggested sizes: Use a large piece of paper. For
instance, use a rectangle, 18 x 9 inches (46 x 23 cm) in
size, to get the finished model about 6 inches (15 cm)
high. It’s exactly what was used for the orange balloon
shown in this article.
The balloon shown on this page is folded from Chiyogami
paper. A rectangle, 22 x 11 inches (55 x 27.5 cm) in size
was used for the balloon itself and a 4 1/8-inch (10 cm)
square for the basket. The resulted model turned 9 inches
(23 cm) high.

1
2
3
Use a rectangle, in proportion 1 to 2. If using two-color paper, begin with colored
side up in landscape position.
Valley fold the rectangle in
half from bottom to top, press
the fold flat and open it up.
Now divide the rectangle by
valley folding on 8 equal
vertical sections.
Divide each vertical section
in half by valley folding,
thereby making 16 equal
vertical sections.
Then turn the paper over.

4
5
8
7
6
On this side, divide each vertical section in half by valley
folding, thereby making 32 equal vertical sections in total.
The marked place
will be shown
enlarged in the
following steps.
Now fold the one
vertical section of
the right-hand
edge along the
existing fold-line.
Working with the
upper and lower
right corners, make
the diagonal fold-
lines over two
layers of this
vertical section by
valley folding, as
s h o w n . T h e n ,
unfold the front flap.
This should be the
result. Now fold 3
vertical sections
of the right-hand
edge along the
existing fold-line
and repeat step 6.
Repeat steps 5-7 for the
each other vertical
section all way till to
middle of the rectangle
and then repeat the
same in mirror for the
left-hand side.

10
9
11
12
13
14
15
Next 4 steps
from 9 to 12 are
s h o w i n g a n
efficient way to
fold the top and
bottom edges
shown in step
13. But if you’d
like, you may
jump to step 13
from here.
Fold the right-
hand section as
shown. Repeat
the same with the
left-hand side.
This should be
the result.
Then turn the
paper over.
Working with the top,
separate the front layer
(at the right and left)
and valley fold the
edge down as shown,
as far as it will go. Then
repeat the same for the
bottom part.
Unfold the top and bottom flaps
and the side sections, therefore
unfolding the paper completely.
Along the fold-lines, valley
fold the top and bottom
edges, as shown.
Valley fold the rectangle in
half from top to bottom.
and valley fold it up to
meet the top edge.

16
17
18
19
This should be the
result. Now valley fold
the bottom edge up to
meet the central
horizontal line (which is
the lower edge of the
front flap), so the dots
coincide, press the fold
flat and unfold it. Unfold the front flap up, as shown.
Now working with 2 upper
horizontal sections, divide
each of them in half by
‘valley’ folding, so the dots
coincide. Then, unfold the
lower horizontal flap. Then
This should be the result. Examine the picture to realize the connecting
points of the diagonals that will go through 3 sections as shown.
A ruler and a bone
folder or similar
object will provide
a great deal of help
in making perfect
diagonal folds.
Place the ruler connecting the dots, as shown. Press the ruler to fix the paper underneath. Keeping
the ruler in the position, insert the bone folder under the paper to meet the ruler’s edge and trace
the line between the dots, embossing it along the way. Then, remove the ruler and the bone folder
from the paper

20
21
22
Along the embossed guide-line, make a good fold, connecting the dots as shown.
Press it flat and unfold it. Now using the same technique, proceed with the other
diagonal-folds as shown. Mind the connecting dots.
This should be
t h e r e s u l t .
M a k e t h e
diagonal fold-
lines in another
d i r e c t i o n ,
minding the
c o n n e c t i n g
dots. Then turn
the paper over.
Examine the picture to realize the connecting points of the folds as shown by the dots.
Re-fold the upper part of the vertical middle–line of each double section into a “valley”
as shown, so that each resulted ‘valley’ fold is limited by the dots.

23
24
25
Examine the picture to realize the connecting points of the folds as shown by the dots.
Re-fold each marked vertical fold–line, limited by the dots, pinching it into a “mountain”.
This should be the result. Examine the picture to realize the connecting points of the
diagonals in the lower part. Using the same technique with a ruler and a bone folder
shown in steps 19-20, make the diagonal fold-lines, minding the connecting dots.
This should be
t h e r e s u l t .
Check out all the
‘mountain’ and
‘valley” lines and
carefully pleat
t h e p a p e r
according these
lines.

26
27
28
29
Here is the profile of the resulted
pleated paper. The form now is
rather 3D, so the following folding
process is shown in a photo-
diagram style.
The other side.
The pleated paper is ready
to be turned into a balloon.

30 31
32 33
34 35
This should be the result. Keeping the lower part
squeezed, turn the paper over into the position
Now, it looks as if you are holding a fan. Turn the
paper around, so the squeezed part is on the
top.
Keeping the most part of the paper squeezed
atop, stretch the right-hand side a bit. Now working
with the second double section, fold its edge
down along the existing fold-lines. The marked
place is shown enlarged in the following steps.
This should be the result. Now we are ready to
work with the squeezed part in order to do a
balloon’s bottom lock.
Turn the paper around into this position. Compress
the lower part of the paper as shown in next step.
The one-piece balloon assembles in the same
way as shown in the article “Hot Air Balloon
(Outside Top Lock)”, steps 21 to 118, article pages
10 to 26 (book pages 23 to 39). So we’ll show
the short version of the assembly here.

36 37
38 39
40 41
This should be the result. Now compress the 2
double sections as shown. Then, along the
existing fold-lines, valley fold the upper edge of
the section, bringing it into the position, shown
in the next step.
This should be the result. Now continue to lock
neighbouring sections together, repeating steps
37-38 over and over.
This should be the result. Now turn the left-hand
flap as shown, thereby closing this section.
Working with this double section, fold its edge
down along the existing fold-lines, as pictured,
together.
This should be the result. Note, the first and last
sections remain unlocked. Compress the flaps
to secure the folds. Then release them.
In the process... For detailed step-by-step locking
process see the article “Hot Air Balloon (Outside
Top Lock)”, steps 27 to 66, article pages 11 to
17 (book pages 24 to 30).

42 43
44 45
46 47
This should be the result. The side sections have
to remain unlocked. Stretch out the lower part of
the sundress-like form a little. Now turn the model
over.
In the process… Apply the top part of the right-
hand section onto the left-hand section…Be sure
all the folds coincide.
This should be the result. Move sides closer
together, as we are going to connect the side
sections.
Starting from the top, superimpose the right-hand
section onto the left-hand section, so that the
folds of layers coincide with each other.
Turn the model around like this. To continue
superimposing the section, you have to insert
the upper layer under the flap atop, as shown,
as far as it will go and be sure that all the folds
of the overlapped sections coincide.
As soon as the top part is aligned, continue to
superimpose the right-hand section onto the left-
hand section further. Be sure that the left-hand
section is not folded inside and that the folds of
both sections are coinciding.

48 49
50 51
52 53
When the layers of the overlapped sections are
aligned, let’s make the last lock. Valley fold the
upper double-layered edge down along the
existing fold-lines.
to the right, closing this section.
Now before working with the last lock, make sure
that the layers of the overlapped sections are
aligned and correct it if necessary.
This should be the result. Continue bringing the
top of the overlapping sections to join the other
folds at the balloon’s upper centre.
Then turn the model around to finish locking the
balloon’s skirt.
This should be the result. Gently, according to
the existing fold-lines, bring the top of the

54 55
56 57
58 59
Working the overlapped section marked as 1,
along the existing fold-line valley fold the corners
of the section, as shown. Press the folds flat,
thereby locking this section.
This should be the result. We will start with the
overlapped section (marked as 1) that we
connected the last in the bottom lock.
The side view of the balloon. Now turn the model
around to work with the upper lock.
Now to secure the folds of the lock, consistently
compress a few flaps together all around the
lock.
The bottom part of the balloon is well locked.
This should be the result. Now the bottom part
of the balloon is completely locked.
Now separate the flaps of this last section and
sink the corner in between the flaps, thereby
making the final lock of the this part of the balloon.
1
2 1
2

60 61
62 63
64 65
This should be the result. The 1st section is
locked. We will do locks on every other section,
ie on alternative sections. So skip the next section
that is adjoined with the 1st one and concentrate
on the following section that is marked as 2.
This should be the result. All the locks are ready!
If needed, for detailed step-by-step locking
process see the article “Hot Air Balloon (Outside
Top Lock)”, steps 93 to 117, article pages 22 to
26 (book pages 35 to 39).
This should be the result. The section marked 2
is locked. Now skip the next section to work with
the other section that is marked as 3. Continue
locking the top in the same way.
The side view. The 15-section balloon envelope
is ready!!!
The top view. Consistently compress the folds of
locked sections once again, thereby securing the
folds of the locks for sure.
3
1
1
2
1
2
2

1 2
5
3
4
12
Paper Stopper
Take a piece of line (about 2 times longer that the height of the original rectangle used for the
balloon module) and a little rectangular piece of paper about 1:3 in proportion, which in length is
a bit less than the balloon diameter.
Fold in half again…
Tighten the lock. If you need
you may do another knot to
secure it even more.
The loop with the paper
stopper is ready.
The paper stopper is ready.
Tie the ends of the line in a
knot to make a loop.
Place the paper stopper atop
the knot part of the loop as
shown and bringing the other
end of the loop atop the folded
paper, thread it into the little
loop with the knot end.
Fold the rectangle
in half lengthways.
the balloon.
Get your balloon ready, turned to you by the top
opening. Take the paper stopper as well.

3 4
5
8
7
6
Here is the completed one-piece hot
air balloon with outside top lock!
Pull out the line loop as far as it will go until you
see the paper stopper is stopped.
This should be the result. The line loop is attached
to the balloon. Now you can hang the balloon!
Here is the completed
one-piece balloon made
from gift-wrapping
paper.
You can create the
whole origami
balloon fleet using
various kinds of
paper!
You can use recycled paper also
– this one-piece balloon was
folded from a magazine page.

9
10
11
Don’t forget that optionally you may add a 1-piece square
basket to the model in the same way as it was in the multi-
piece balloon. In this case, the square basket folds from
a square with a side that is 3/8 of the short side of the
rectangle used for the balloon.
This one-piece balloon is
folded from Chiyogami
paper. The additional
basket to it was folded
from hand-made paper
‘Moriki Kozo’.
Here is the completed one-
piece balloon made from the
fine Japanese translucent
paper called Sukashi. Such an
airy balloon will be a perfect
decoration for a wedding!
When you master the model,
you can fold mini balloons like
this one.
This miniature one-piece
balloon is folded from
b e a u t i f u l l y p a t t e r n e d
Katazome-shi paper, just 11 x
5 1/2 inches (28 x 14 cm) in
size. Looks very festive!

23-section Tubby Balloon (1:3 rectangle)
You may fold a tubby balloon, using a rectangle, 1:3 in proportion; it will result in a 23-section
balloon with 1 double section overlapped.
Follow the diagrams of folding the 15-section
Balloon with that difference that in step 2 you
divide the rectangle on 12 equal vertical
sections; in step 3 - on 24 equal vertical sections;
in step 4 - on 48 equal vertical sections.
The finished
model will be
measuring – a
bit less than 3/4
of the short side
of the initial
rectangle, as
pictured.
Here is the completed one-piece tubby
balloon with the outside top lock.

Hot Air Balloon (Inside Top Lock) © 1998 Yuri and Katrin Shumakov - page 1
Hot Air Balloon (Inside Top Lock)
This modular version of Hot Air Balloon consists of a modular balloon envelope with the inside top
lock and a 1-piece square basket. Because of the inside top lock, this version of the balloon is
more complex than the balloon with the outside top lock.
by Yuri and Katrin Shumakov
In case of standard copy paper either Letter or
A4 format, use its height to maximum.
Letter format: use 11 x 5 1/2 inches rectangles
for balloon modules and a 4 1/8-inch square for
a basket to receive the finished model about 8
3/4 inches high.
A4: use 30 x 15 cm rectangles for balloon
modules and an 11.3-cm square for a basket to
receive the finished model about 23 cm high.
The balloon envelope folds from several balloon
modules, each folded from a rectangle, 1:2 in
proportion. The balloon module for this balloon with
the inside top lock folds practically the same as for
the outside top lock version, but with a few extra
folds.
The quantity of balloon modules may vary from 5 to
8 to receive a desired balloon shape from an elegant
15-section balloon to a tubby 24-section balloon.
The balloon modules may overlap by 1 or 2 sections.
folded from 6 balloon modules that overlap by one
section.
Suggested paper: regular origami paper, colour
copy paper. Also you may experiment with any paper
that is sturdy, thin, with fine finish. You even can use
craft paper or thicker art paper for a large scale
model.
Suggested sizes: In case of origami paper, use a 10-inch (25 cm) size to get the rectangles 10
x 5 inches (25 x 12.5 cm) in size; respectively use a 3 3/4 -inch (9.4 cm) square for a basket. In
this case the finished model will be about 7 1/2 inches (18.5 cm) high.
To hang such origami Hot Air Balloon you will
need a piece of line and a little rectangular piece
of paper about 1:2 or 1:3 in proportion, which in
length is a bit less than the balloon diameter.

Balloon Module (from 1:2 rectangle)
Balloon Modules
Basket
If using two-color paper, begin with colored side up in portrait position.
Follow steps 1 to 23 of the Balloon Module diagrams shown in the article “Hot Air
Balloon (Outside Top Lock)”, article pages 2 to 4 (book pages 15 to 17).
This should be the result. Check out
all the ‘mountain’ and ‘valley’ lines and
then carefully pleat the paper
according these lines.
The finished model will be measuring
a bit more than 3/4 of the tall side of
the initial rectangle used for the balloon
module, as pictured.
Unfold the upper
horizontal flap.
The square basket folds from a square with a side
that is 3/4 of the short side of the rectangle used for
the balloon module.
1
24
25

Here is the profile of the
resulted pleated paper.
The form now is rather 3D,
so the following folding
process is shown in a photo-
diagram style.
The other side. The balloon module for the inside
top lock version is ready!
Practical Tip!
The inside top lock will provide an extra stress to the upper
paper edge of each balloon module and if using weak or
dried-up paper, the edge may tear a bit during the locking.
So in this case, you may reinforce the edge of each balloon
module applying a strip of sticky tape on the upper horizontal
section on the outer side, as shown. The lock will be inside,
so the horizontal section with the sticky tape will be hidden
and not seen on the outer side of the resulted balloon.
26
27
29
28

We will show the assembly of the 18-section balloon, as pictured, folded from 6 balloon modules
that overlap by 1 section. For this particular balloon we used regular colour copy paper - the
rectangles 11 x 5.5 inches (28 x 14 cm) in size for balloon modules.
Assembly of 18-section Balloon Envelope,
Inside Top Lock (from 6 Balloon Modules)
The assembly of the balloon with the inside top lock starts from locking the balloon’s top. The top
lock will remain inside, so there will be no access to it once the balloon is ready. Hence it’s imperative
that you do the inside top lock of the balloon correctly following the instructions diligently.
And after that the balloon will be locked at the bottom, using the same method as it was shown
for the bottom lock of the balloon with the outside top lock in the article “Hot Air Balloon (Outside
Top Lock)”, article pages 11 to 21 (book pages 24 to 34).
The colours scheme used is a classic rainbow. 6 spectral colours
work great for this design, namely: red, orange, yellow, green, blue,
and violet. So you will need one balloon module per colour.
It’s also possible to use just 2 complementary colours like red and
green, blue and orange, yellow and violet. In this case your will
need 3 balloon modules of each colour.
So prepare the balloon modules and diligently
follow the assembly instructions that shown next
in a great detail with step-by-step photo-diagrams
and written comments.
You will need 6 paper clips (one per module) in
the process to temporarily keep the overlapping
sections aligned before they are locked at the
bottom of the balloon.

Get ready all the balloon modules in an
appropriate order. In our case, it’s 6 modules,
arranged in the colours scheme of a classic
rainbow, namely: red, orange, yellow, green,
blue, and violet.
6541 2 3
This should be the result. Now fold the front
triangular flap down, thereby locking this middle
double section.
Take the first module. Note, the modules should
be positioned by the inner side toward you. In
case you are using two-colour paper, it should
be turned by the inside colour. The marked place
is shown enlarged in the following steps.
Locate the double section at the middle and
compress the side folds to it, bringing the paper
into the position shown in the next step.
This should be the result. The middle double
section is well locked. This is the basic lock we
will be using to lock the balloon’s top.
In the process…
1
1 2
3 4
5 6

Loosen the side sections. The first module is
ready to be connected to the next one.
Now open the joined double section into the
position shown in the next step.
Take the 2nd module. Place the left-hand double
section of the 2nd module atop the 1st one,
aligning paper along the folds and hence
overlapping the 1st module by one double section.
This should be the result. Compress the folds
together, so that they adjust their position.
In the process…This should be the result. Now fold the front
triangular flap down, thereby locking this double
section, connecting two modules as well.
1 2
109
87
11 12

This should be the result. This double section is
well locked. Now turn one right-hand flap over
to the left, as if you are turning the page of a
book.
well locked. Now turn one right-hand flap over to
the left, as if you are turning the page of a book.
This should be the result. Fold the front triangular
flap down, thereby locking this double section.
In the process…
This double section is well locked. Now turn right-
hand flaps over to the left, as if you are closing
a book. Then loosen the form.
13 14
15 16
17 18

The 1st and 2nd modules are connected. Take
the 3rd module. Place the left-hand double section
of the 3rd module atop the 2nd one, aligning
paper along the folds and hence overlapping the
2nd module by one double section.
Now open the joined section into the position
Gently compress the connected modules together,
so that they adjust their position. Then release
them.
locked. Now turn one right-hand flap over to the
left, as if you are turning the page of a book.
1 2 3
19 20
21 22
23 24

Fold the front triangular flap down, thereby locking
this double section.
a book.
section.
Now add the 4th module, placing the left-hand
double section of the 4th module atop the last
section of the 3rd one, aligning paper along the
folds and hence overlapping the 3rd module by
one double section.
Gently compress the folds. Then loosen the form.
41 2 3
25 26
27 28
29 30

This should be the result. Gently compress the
folds, so that they adjust their position.
This double section is locked. Now turn one right-
hand flap over to the left, as if you are turning
the page of a book.
31 32
33 34
35 36

section.
Add the 5th module, placing the left-hand double
section of the 5th module atop the last section
of the 4th one, aligning paper along the folds and
hence overlapping the 4th module by one double
section.
a book.
folds, so that they adjust their position.
541 2 3
37 38
39 40
41 42

the page of a book.
a book.
43 44
45 46
47 48

65412 3
Now fold the front triangular flap down, thereby
locking this double section, connecting two
modules as well.
Add the final 6th module in the same way as you
did before, placing the left-hand double section
of the 6th module atop the last section of the 5th
one, aligning paper along the folds and hence
overlapping the 5th module by one double section.
folds, so that they adjust their position. Then open
the joined section into the position shown in the
next step.
the page of a book.
49 50
51 52
53 54

Now turn right-hand flaps over to the left, as if
you are closing a book.
Now we will connect the 1st and 6th modules
together.
The marked place is shown enlarged in the
following steps.
Gently compress the folds. Note, the 1st module
has 2 not locked points at the left, while the last
6th module at the right has 3 not locked points.
This way it will be easier to connect the first and
last modules in the next steps.
Loosen the model. This should be the result.
Turn the paper around into the position shown
in the next step.
Top view. The double section of the red module
will completely cover the last double section of
the violet module.
Stretching the sections a bit, we will apply one
double section of the 1st module (red, in our
case) atop of the last section of the 6th module
(violet).
55 56
57 58
59 60

Keeping the inner “tube” of locks squeezed, apply
the double section of the red module atop of the
last section of the violet module. Be sure all the
folds coincide.
This should be the result – the double section is
Keep the inner “tube” of locks squeezed.
Meanwhile open the sides of the joined section
to prepare it for locking.
Now fold the front triangular flap of the joined
section down, thereby locking this double section,
connecting two modules as well.
This should be the result. Now turn two left-hand
flaps over to the right, thereby preparing the final
double section for locking.
61 62
63 64
65 66

Now fold the front triangular flap down, thereby
locking this last double section.
Top view. Now align edges of paper on
overlapping sections, so the folds of layers
coincide.
This should be the result. The inside top lock is
completed!
Now consistently examine each section and
press/pinch their folds flat to secure the locks.
Check the overlapping sections from this side
too, so that the folds of layers coincide. Turn the
model over.
This should be the result. The form now resembles
an open flower. Turn the model over.
67 68
69 70
71 72

Now when all the locks and overlapping sections
are checked, we will push the inside lock down…
In this point, it’s convenient to place the form at
the flat surface again. Sink the inside lock deeper
as far as it will go, so that the modules are closed.
It might be more convenient to place one hand
behind the form and push with the other, so that
the modules are slightly opening.
Continue to push at the middle, so that the inside
lock is sinking deeper and the modules are starting
to close.
Working with the overlapping sections, be sure
that the layers and folds coincide all the way from
the bottom to the top, inside & outside. Temporarily
place the paper clip at the marked place to keep
the overlapping sections well aligned.
This should be the result. Now the form resembles
a vase.
73 74
75 76
77 78

This should be the result. Align the next
overlapping sections…
Inside view. This should be the result.
…and secure the connection of the overlapping
sections atop with a paper clip. Repeat the same
with the other overlapping sections.
This should be the result. Note, the paper clips
are places just temporarily to facilitate the process
of the assembly. The paper clips will be
consistently removed when we will lock the
balloon’s bottom.
Top view of the balloon. Check the overlapping
sections from this side too, so that the folds of
layers coincide. Turn the model over into a vase-
like position.
Closer view of the inside lock. Be sure that all
the layers are in the correct places inside.
79 80
81 82
83 84

Gently bring the upper part together, as shown.
This should be the result. (Remove the paper
clip from the left-hand flap.)
Working with the opened section, valley fold the
top edge down along the existing fold-lines as
shown.
Now all is ready to make the final locking of the
balloon envelope. The marked place is shown
enlarged in the following steps.
Note, remove paper clips consistently right before
locking each particular overlapping section.
Separate the layers to start with a single-layered
section. For instance, let’s start from the middle
section of the yellow module.
lines, fold the right-hand flap down, thereby locking
This should be the result. Now turn one (double
layered) left-hand flap over to the right, as if you
are turning the page of a book.
85 86
87 88
89 90

In the process…
This balloon’s bottom lock is using the same
technique as the bottom lock shown in the article
“Hot Air Balloon (Outside Top Lock)”, article pages
11 to 21 (book pages 24 to 34).
This should be the result. Now turn one left-hand
flap over to the right, as if you are turning the
page of a book.
locked. Note that the vertical axis of the resulted
flap is not coinciding with the vertical axis of the
whole model.
Now turn one left-hand flap over to the right.
lines, fold the right-hand flap down, thereby locking
This should be the result. Continue to lock the
sections in the same way, consistently removing
paper clips right before locking each particular
overlapping section.
Now, along the existing fold-lines, fold the right-
hand flap down, thereby locking this double
section.
91 92
93 94
95 96

A few more sections are locked. Continue locking
the sections in the same way until it comes to
the last section.
This should be the result. Separate the layers of
the triangular flap…
This should be the result. Turn one left-hand flap
of the last section over to the right, as if you are
turning the page of a book.
Along the existing fold-lines, fold the right-hand
This should be the result. The balloon’s bottom
part is well locked!
This should be the result. Fold the corner down,
thereby locking the final section.
97 98
99 100
101 102

The view of the balloon’s bottom.
Take a piece of line (about 2
times longer that the height
of the original rectangle used
for the balloon module) and
a little rectangular piece of
paper about 1:2 or 1:3 in
proportion, which in length is
a bit less than the balloon
diameter.
Make the paper stopper
according to diagrams shown
in the article “One-Piece Hot
Air Balloon (Outside Top
Lock)”, article page 16 (book
page 67).
The 18-section Balloon envelope with the inside
top lock is ready!
the balloon. Be sure that the knot is tied up well
and not sliding off the paper stopper.
Get your balloon ready, turned to you by a top
opening and take the paper stopper as well.
32
1
103 104

Repeat step 2 for each of the rest upright supports.
Keep the size of the tip and the direction of folding
the same for each upright support. Insert the tip
of the respective upright support into the narrow
opening of the opened flap as far as it will go.
Note that the flap has a narrow opening. Take
the basket as shown. Fold the tip of the front
upright support in the same direction as that
narrow opening in the flap, because this tip will
be inserted into this opening later.
This should be the result. The line loop is attached
to the balloon. Now you can hang the balloon!
Pull out the line loop as far as it will go until you
see the paper stopper is stopped inside.
Get your balloon envelope (with a piece of line
attached to it) and the square basket ready.
Take the balloon by the bottom lock turned toward
you. Open one of the flaps of the balloon skirt as
shown.
Fold the square basket
according to diagrams shown
in the article “Hot Air Balloon
(Outside Top Lock)”, article
pages 29 to 33 (book pages
42 to 46).
The detailed process of attaching the basket is
shown in the article “Hot Air Balloon (Outside
Top Lock)”, article pages 34 to 37 (book pages
47 to 50). So here is the short version.
32
1
4 5
Attaching Square Basket to Balloon Envelope

Open the middle flap of the balloon skirt as
shown. And then insert the tip of the respective
upright support into the narrow opening of the
opened flap. And then close the flap, returning
This should be the result. Attach the side upright
supports to the respective flaps of the balloon
skirt in the same way.
You may adjust the position of the basket, moving
the upright supports in the respective flaps up
and down as desired.
This should be the result. Now the tip of the
upright support is locked in the balloon skirt. Next,
turn the balloon around to get access to the
opposite side.
This should be the result. Position the tip in the
middle of the flap and then lock the flap, returning
The basket is attached to the balloon envelope!
8
76
4 5
9

10
Here is the completed multi-piece hot
air balloon with inside top lock!
Congratulation!!! Your origami
balloon is ready for take off!

This version of the balloon (with the inside top lock) folds from a single piece paper. Use a rectangle
1:2 in proportion to get a 15-section balloon of a classic shape. If using a rectangle, 1:3 in proportion,
it results in a 23-section balloon of a tubby shape (see the end of this article for details).
The inside top lock and the bottom lock of the
balloon envelope folded in the same technique
as it was for the multi-piece balloon with the
inside top lock shown before.
The design of the balloon envelope is having a
balloon skirt on the bottom, which may look like
a basket.
folded from a rectangle (a double square), 1:2 in proportion
that overlap by 1 section.
The finished model will be measuring – a bit less than 3/4
of the short side of the initial rectangle, as pictured.
One-Piece Hot Air Balloon (Inside Top Lock) © 1998 Yuri Shumakov - page 1
by Yuri Shumakov
One-Piece Hot Air Balloon
(Inside Top Lock)

Optionally, you may add a 1-piece
square basket to this model, just
like it was in the multi-piece balloon.
In this case, the square basket folds
from a square with a side that is 3/8
of the short side of the rectangle
used for the balloon.
Suggested paper: large-size origami paper, Chiyogami
paper, gift wrapping paper (not too thin), even holographic
foil paper. Many fine Japanese papers can be used. You
may experiment with any paper that is sturdy, thin, with fine
finish. You even can use craft paper or thicker art paper for
a large scale model.
To hang such origami Hot Air Balloon you will need a
piece of line and a little rectangular piece of paper
about 1:2 or 1:3 in proportion, which in length is a bit
less than the balloon diameter.
In case of the basket, the whole balloon
will be a bit more than 3/4 of the short
side of the initial rectangle.
Suggested sizes: Use a large piece of paper.
For instance, use a rectangle, 18 x 9 inches (46
x 23 cm) in size, to get the finished model about
6 inches (15 cm) high.
For the silver balloon shown on this article we used a
rectangle 7 1/2 x 15 inches (19 x 38 cm) in size cut
from a 7 1/2 inches (19 cm) wide roll of Gift Wrap
Holographic Foil paper, which is quite handy when you
need long rectangles, for instance, 1:2 or 1:3.
This particular balloon itself turned 5 inches (12.5 cm)
high, and in a combination with the basket - 6 inches
(15 cm) high.

25
26
27
Use a rectangle, in proportion 1 to 2. If using two-color paper,
begin with colored side up in landscape position.
This should be the result. Check
out all the ‘mountain’ and ‘valley”
lines and carefully pleat the
paper according these lines.
Unfold the upper
horizontal flap.
Follow steps 1 to 25 of the 15-section Balloon diagrams shown in the article “One-Piece
Hot Air Balloon (Outside Top Lock)”, article pages 3 to 8 (book pages 54 to 59).
Here is the profile of the resulted
pleated paper.
The form now is rather 3D, so
the following folding process is
shown in a photo-diagram style.
Check out the Practical Tip on how to
reinforce the upper edge if using weak
paper in the article “Hot Air Balloon (Inside
Top Lock)”, article page 3 (book page 73).

30 31
32 33
28 29
Note, the paper should be positioned by the inner
side toward you. In case you are using two-colour
paper, it should be turned by the inside colour
(white in our case). We will start with forming the
top lock. Compress the upper part of the paper.
Locate the double section at the left-hand side,
which follows after 2 points atop as shown. Open
this double section, bringing it into the position
Release the upper part of the paper, keeping it
just a bit squeezed as shown.
The other side. Check out all the folds. Turn the
paper over into the position shown in the next
step.
The pleated paper is ready. The one-piece balloon
assembles in the same way as shown in the
article “Hot Air Balloon (Inside Top Lock)”, steps
1 to 104 on article pages 5 to 22 (book pages 75
to 92). So here we’ll show the short version.

36 37
38 39
34 35
36 37
section.
The second double section is locked. Now turn
one right-hand flap over to the left, as if you are
turning the page of a book.
This should be the result. The double section is
well locked. This is the basic lock we will be using
to lock the balloon’s top. Now turn one right-hand
flap over to the left, as if you are turning the page
of a book.
well locked. Continue to lock double sections in
the same way.
This should be the result. Again fold the front
section.

Yuri and katrin shumakov oriland balloon ride

Yuri and katrin shumakov oriland balloon ride

Recommandé

Recommandé

Contenu connexe

Tendances

Tendances (20)

En vedette

En vedette (20)

Plus de Hicham Teba

Plus de Hicham Teba (20)

Dernier

Dernier (20)

Yuri and katrin shumakov oriland balloon ride