1. The sun care category is under attack.
The aggressors? An unstoppable army of BB
creams, CC creams and UV filter containing
skin care and body care products, all of
which are tempting consumers away from
traditional sun protection.
“The sun care market grew 5.9% in 2012
to $9.1bn, which was a small decrease on
growth in 2011 [6.5%],” says Nicole
Tyrimou, Beauty and Personal Care Analyst
at Euromonitor International.“The last year
has been gloomy across a lot of sectors, but
sun care has been particularly hard hit
because there are now all these other
products claiming sun protection
competing with sun care in skin care,
colour cosmetics and even ingestibles.
“In the past, consumers might have
selected skin care with SPF,” she adds.
“Now they are coming to expect sun
protection as standard from both skin care
and colour cosmetics.And in regions like
Europe and Asia Pacific, where [skin care
and make-up] manufacturers are allowed to
claim protection over SPF15, you are now
getting products with claims of SPF30 and
higher.The result is there’s a danger that
the sun care category will become a
‘holiday’ category, or one confined to
sports use.”
The sluggish economy in western
Europe (responsible for $2.7bn of sun care
sales) also negatively impacted the category,
as Chris Lindsley, Global Skincare Analyst
at Mintel, tells SPC.“Among the European
big five, only the UK saw an increase in
product launches in 2012 – by 1%.The rest
decreased,” he says.“In Italy and Spain, 38%
and 39% of consumers respectively said
they’d cut back on sun protection
purchases and were using leftover product
from the previous year and this has affected
sales.”
The outlook proved little brighter in
North America or Asia, which also
experienced a slowdown in growth.The
North American sun care market grew just
4.4%, compared with 6.4% in 2011, while
Asia’s grew 6.7%, down on 8.6% in 2011.
Australasia was the exception to the rule,
exhibiting stronger sales growth in 2012
(5.9%) than in 2011 (1.8%), which Tyrimou
April 2013 SPC 71
Sun care sales are suffering as a result of the surge in skin care and make-up with UV
protection. But the category is innovating to survive, says Julia Wray
TABLE 1: GLOBAL SUN CARE MARKET
BY CATEGORY, 2012 (US$M)
Category 2012 %+/-
Sun care total 9,094.2 5.9
Sun protection 7,886.6 6.5
Aftersun 637.1 2.6
Self-tanning 570.5 1.9
Source: Euromonitor International
TABLE 2: GLOBAL SUN CARE MARKET
BY REGION, 2012 (US$M)
Region 2012 %+/-
North America 1,884.5 4.4
Latin America 1,799.7 16.0
Western Europe 2,709.1 0.1
Eastern Europe 327.0 4.6
Asia Pacific 1,950.6 6.7
Middle East & Africa 219.7 14.1
Australasia 203.6 5.9
Source: Euromonitor International
market reportsun care
THE
HEAT
IS ON
In Australia the SPF
bar has been raised
from 30 to 50+
071 SPC0413 sun marketCH_spc feature template 02/12/2014 17:24 Page 71

2. attributes to the change in Australia’s
sunscreen regulations.“Until recently,
SPF30 was the maximum SPF value a sun
care product on the Australian market
could claim. But from November 2012, the
Australian government’s Therapeutic Goods
Administration raised the benchmark to
SPF50+ and of course this means
consumers are upgrading to the highest
possible factor,” she explains.“Also, in
Australia, colour cosmetics and skin care
products are not allowed to label anything
over SPF15, which is the maximum SPF
claim for a non-sun care product.This limit
not only means there is less competition
from other sectors, it also means that in
Australia it is the sun care brands rather
than the skin care ones who are answering
consumer demand for multifunctional
products.”
But the sun care category is not about to
surrender market share without a fight.
Instead it is evolving and diversifying.
“We’re seeing more body specific sun care
products – ones for the lips, face, body and
hair,” explains Tyrimou.“And as well as
body parts, we’re seeing more segmentation
by consumer type, format and protection
level too. It’s making sun care more
multifunctional as a way of adding value.”
As Louise Hardman,Assistant Brand
Manager at Piz Buin owner Johnson &
Johnson, notes:“People prefer a range of
choices because everyone has their
favourite. It’s all about expanding that
range in a variety of SPFs. Lotions and
sprays are our biggest format. But we’re
also seeing the introduction of completely
new formats.You’ve got mousse spray,
you’ve got oil and you’ve got mist.The
mousse spray doesn’t tend to go as far as
other formats but it is non-greasy.”
“You have to have products that fill
every niche,” adds Consultant
Dermatologist Dr Sue Mayou.“Some
people look for things like Piz [Buin]
which lasts for six hours because it’s
convenient and some people like
transparent sprays because they’re
cosmetically acceptable and quite
easy to apply.Then there are ones
containing a tan accelerator for
those who really want to get
brown.”
In addition, formulations are
becoming more sophisticated,
according to Tyrimou.“Creams are
more easily absorbed, oils are drier,
sprays are transparent, you’re getting
2012 there was an increase in launches of
sun protection with SPF30, SPF50 and
SPF70, but SPF15 and SPF20 product
launches decreased.This mirrors consumer
data showing that a quarter of consumers
in the European big five are using a higher
level of SPF than a few years ago.”
Indeed, most brands now aim to include
maximum protection sunscreens in a
majority of their ranges.
And the announcement of the new PA
rating instigated a rush among Japanese
manufacturers to launch high UVA
protection products for summer 2013.
Rohto Pharmaceutical introduced four
PA++++ milks – Sunplay Super Block,
Super Cool, Clear Water and Baby Milk –
while Pola developed Whitissimo UV
Block Shield White and Noevir launched
Raysela UV Protector Stick.
While Lindsley attributes increased
demand for higher SPF to better consumer
education about the dangers of sun
exposure, J&J’s Hardman suggests additional
reasons.“We’ve seen an increase in demand
for SPF50… as we have an ageing
population,” she tells SPC.
Moreover, with urban populations
growing across the globe, we can expect to
see more products like Germaine De
Capuccini’s UV Urban Shield SPF50,
which not only protects skin from sun
induced cellular damage, but from
additional environmental aggressors like
pollution.
CONVENIENCE IS KING
Consumers want their sun protection and
self-tanning products to be
convenient, and packaging plays a big
part in delivering this, as Lindsley
notes.While bottles and tubes are still
the primary packaging methods for
sun care, 2012 saw increased use of
‘versatile’ and ‘easy to hold’ tottles as
well as a rise in aerosol product
launches in line with growth in
mist products.
Nivea, for example, recently
launched its first aerosol
sunscreen, Nivea Sun Protect
& Refresh Invisible Cooling
Mist. In line with the trend
towards easy use, the applicator
has a 360º valve, which can be
used from all angles, making it
easy to apply, even to hard to
reach places.
Barry Goode, UK Brand
Manager, Sun and Lip Care at
Beiersdorf UK, notes that in
addition to convenience,
consumers specifically want “a
pleasurable application”, which
products that can be applied to wet skin
and ones which dry quicker or last longer
between applications,” she tells SPC.
PROTECTION MATTERS
Sun protection is first and foremost about
safety, preventing UVB induced sunburn
and the DNA damage caused by UVB and
UVA rays that can lead to premature skin
ageing and skin cancer, and is naturally an
issue of importance to governments and
industry bodies worldwide.
Australia was not the only country to
update its sunscreen regulations in recent
months.The US FDA’s final rule on
labelling and effectiveness testing for
sunscreens came into effect on 17
December 2012, with key changes
including a 50+ cap on SPF claims (for
more information see p81).
“The FDA cap on SPF50+ will force
brands in the US to fight harder to
differentiate their products,” predicts
Tyrimou.“It used to be a war of the SPFs.
Now they will have to differentiate
elsewhere. It’s amazing the segmentation
they’re already coming up with.We’ve seen
a tattoo protecting variant [Coppertone
Tattoo Guard Sunscreen SPF50, available in
stick and lotion formats, which boasts a
moisturising formula to help maintain the
smooth appearance of tattooed skin], and
we’re seeing kids’ and babies’ separating into
different segments. It’s an effort to
differentiate themselves and to tap into a
selling point in a very saturated market.”
Elsewhere, in November 2012, the Japan
Cosmetic Industry Association updated its
PA system for assessing UVA protection
with the addition of a new higher
grade: PA++++, the equivalent of a
UVA protection factor of over 16.
According to Lindsley, the PA
system (the preferred choice of
most Asian sun care brands) is
fast becoming the global standard
for UVA protection.“The way
companies talk about
protection is changing,”
he says.“In 2012, the
number of new sun care
products with SPF in
the title increased by
2%, while those with
UVB and UVA in the
title both fell.The
reason for this is the
increased use of the PA
ranking for UVA in
labelling, which was up
54% in 2012.
“We are seeing a shift
towards a higher level of
protection,” he adds.“In
sun caremarket report
Nivea has launched its first aerosol
sunscreen (right) while Piz Buin is
building on its wet skin technology (far
right)
72 SPC April 2013
071 SPC0413 sun marketCH_spc feature template 02/12/2014 17:24 Page 72

3. (340nm–400nm) penetrate deep into the
epidermis, even reaching the immune cells
in the skin, causing intolerances.
Tyrimou notes that as well as sensitive
and anti-allergen claims, there has been a
rise in sunscreen for rosacea and acne
prone skin too, citing La Roche-Posay’s
existing Anthelios AC SPF30 Extreme
Fluid for blemish prone skin as an example.
And sun care is making inroads into
other niche areas. Last summer, India’s
Dabur launched Dabur Uveda Sunblock
SPF30, which claims to combine broad
spectrum sun protection with Ayurvedic
ingredients like protective gudhuma and
uva-ursi leaf extract to lighten skin tone.
Also new on the market was Aethic
Sôvée, an eco-compatible sunscreen brand.
“Sunscreens contribute 10% of the damage
done to coral reefs around the world. It is
the most direct demonstration of man’s
direct impact on the aquatic environment,”
Allard Marx, one of the founders of Aethic,
tells SPC.“Biodegradable means that
products degrade when subjected to the
elements... [but] does not mean that the
ingredients do no harm. Eco-compatible
means the ingredients do no harm to
nature.”
He adds:“Each ingredient [in Aethic
Sôvée] was individually tested on coral and
on mussels/clams.Then the entire product
was again tested in the marine habitat.
While this is currently a niche in the
market, it is also the future of the market.”
ADDED BENEFITS
Multifunctionality is a good way for sun
care brands to add value and compete with
UV-containing skin care and make-up.
Little surprise then that many new sun care
solutions for the face and the body feature
claims ranging from anti-ageing to tan
enhancing... and often in the same product.
This year, La Mer joined the ranks of
premium beauty names with a sun care
line, launching Soleil de la Mer. Products in
the collection – including Reparative Face
Sun Lotion SPF30 and Reparative Body
Sun Lotion SPF30 – combine La Mer’s
iconic Miracle Broth with a restorative
ferment of Laminaria ochroleuca (golden
algae), marine peptides and sea botanicals.
And while the newest additions to
Lierac’s Sunific line-up – Huile Satinante
(SPF30), Huile Embellissante (SPF15) and
Huile Sublimante (SPF6) – offer anti-
ageing and bronzing benefits thanks to a
trio of hydrating oils (monoi, roucou and
apricot kernel) and a peptide that
stimulates tanning, SkinCeuticals and
Amway opted for facial products offering
protective and corrective properties.
Brightening UV Defense SPF30 from
market reportsun care
the new mist is said to deliver via a cooling
sensation.“The cooling effect is achieved
through the use of menthol in the product
and the evaporation of ethanol,” Goode
explains.“When the product is spritzed on
in a fine mist it creates a natural cooling
sensation when it hits the skin, helping to
cool hot bodies.”
As well as progress in packaging, demand
for convenience is being answered through
formulation innovation, with claims like
‘long lasting’ and ‘works on wet skin’
becoming more common.
Riemann, for example, introduced its
classic once a day protection product P20
in a wider range of SPFs, while pharmacy
chain Boots launched Soltan Kids Once 3
Hour Water Play Suncare Spray in SPF30
and SPF50.
“Once a day products offer up to eight
hours protection from a single application,
including three hours in the water,” says
Clare O’Connor, Innovation R&D
Manager – Skin Protection at Boots.
“These products have been available in
lotion format, but due to technological
advances in working on our once a day
formats, it has now been possible to
introduce this into an easy to apply spray
format.”
And last month, J&J launched Piz Buin
Wet Skin Transparent Sun Care in SPF15,
which builds on the technology used in its
Neutrogena Wet Skin Sunblock, which
debuted in the US last year.
Standard transparent sunscreen sprays slide
off wet skin leaving white marks. Piz Buin
Wet Skin, on the other hand, cuts through
the water barrier upon application.As
Georgios Stamatas, J&J’s Research Associate
Director – EMEA Skin Care Science and
Scientific Communication, explains:“With
Piz Buin Wet Skin we introduce a mixture
of polyester, resin and silicone together with
the sunscreen filters and the regular oils in
which they are dissolved.We add the
silicone to increase the solubility of the
polymer inside the oil.The polyester and
resin are hydrophobic so they
can cut through water on the
skin’s surface and still create
this oil layer, so you get nice
uniform protection.”
Meanwhile, Lancaster
added Wet Skin Application
sunscreens to its Sun Sports
and Sun For Kids lines – both
well suited to the wet skin
concept.
AREAS OF
SEGMENTATION
Kids are one consumer group
where convenient formats and
Aethic Sôvée (left) is targeted as
eco-compatible while La Mer
(above) introduces its Miracle
Broth to the sun
April 2013 SPC 75
modes of application are particularly
essential.“Even if an adult does not use sun
protection themselves they will want to
protect their children,” says Tyrimou.“Kids
are more exposed – on holiday they’re
playing in the sun and in the sea – plus
their skin is more sensitive. Foams are great
for kids because they are fun, fast to apply
and absorb quickly. Both foams and sticks
are gaining ground with the kids’ sun care
market.”
Lisa Matthews, Head of Own Brand at
UK pharmacy chain Superdrug, says the
kids’ product line-up within its private
label Solait brand will be an area of focus
in coming months.“We have… a whole
range of kids’ products that are unique:
trigger spray packaging that they find easy
to apply themselves and a rollerball.All
children need to take sunscreen into
schools in the summer and our rollerball
fits into their lunchbox, has a name tag and
teachers can apply it without touching the
child at all.”
Boots likewise enhanced its kids’ offer
with a new sensitive line for kids as part of
its Soltan portfolio, which O’Connor says
is “formulated to be extra mild to reduce
the risk of skin rashes and allergies, a key
concern for parents during the
summertime”.
Indeed, in line with the more
mainstream positioning of therapeutic skin
care products, sunscreens for consumers
with sensitive skins are increasingly
common. New from Sisley, for instance, is
Super Stick Solaire SPF30, created for the
sensitive areas of the face and containing
the emollients camellia oil, mango butter
and shea butter.
Meanwhile, products in the new seven-
sku Garnier Ambre Solaire Sensitive range
are not just fragrance-, paraben- and
artificial colour-free, they also provide
protection from longer wavelengths of
UVA than standard sunscreens.According
to Garnier, long UVA rays
071 SPC0413 sun marketCH_spc feature template 02/12/2014 17:24 Page 75

4. SkinCeuticals combines broad spectrum
protection with a complex targeting
existing hyperpigmentation, while Amway
Artistry Time Defiance UV Defense SPF50
contains ten natural plant extracts, selected
for their brightening and soothing
properties.The product was developed to
fulfil the needs of women of every colour
and the ultralight formula is said to absorb
instantly with no ashy look, regardless of
skin tone.
Commenting on facial sun care
specifically, Euromonitor’s Tyrimou states:
“The whole point of a sun protection
product is that it creates a film on your
skin. But this feels unnatural. Sun care
brands need to explain to consumers why
they need to add this step to their routine
and apply this film.And the answer is
because UV filters are less concentrated in
skin care and consumers are likely to use
less product; they are less protected.To win
the fight against multifunctional skin care
and colour cosmetics, the approach by sun
care brands needs to be two pronged: keep
improving the feel of formulations and
improve consumer education.”
Alternatively, sun care brand Garnier
Ambre Solaire took a ‘beat them at their
own game approach’ and launched its own
BB cream.
BRONZE AGE
On a global scale, the $570m self-tanning
category is still struggling to establish itself
in the sun care market.“It’s not a necessity
and although self-tanning brands are
aligning themselves with skin care more
and more, it is still a sub-category restricted
to developed markets,” explains
Tyrimou.“Plus Asia Pacific will
never be an area they can tap into,
which will always be a barrier.”
But while self-tanners might be
confined to developed markets,
innovation in these countries
(especially the US and the UK) is
thriving as brands seek to meet
consumers’ increasingly sophisticated
demands.
“Gone are the days of fake
looking tans,” James Read, UK self-
tanning expert, tells SPC.“It’s about
giving the skin a warm golden
colour… your skin should play as a
background colour working with the
rest of your look, not overpowering it.”
Read’s own 11-sku self-tanning line,
launched in June 2012, includes a first of its
kind product: the James Read BB Tan Face
Pen, which features a brush applicator for
applying tan to hard to reach places without
getting product on your fingers.Another
first is his newest addition: the James Read
Sleep Mask Tan.Also new is Kardashian Sun
Kissed, a five-sku sunless tanning system.
The latest additions to St Tropez’
portfolio, meanwhile, demonstrate the
segmentation happening throughout
the self-tanning market with products
for different body parts and different
needs.
Other new launches suggest a trend
towards dark tan variants such as L’Oréal
Paris Sublime Bronze Express Pro Self-
Tanning Dry Mist Dark Tan, Xen-Tan’s
Moroccan Tan, which dries a deep olive
colour, Superdrug Solait Wear-Off Dark
Spray Tan and Superdrug Solait Wash-Off
Dark Matte Bronzer. Indeed, wash-off
products, bridging the gap between sun
care and make-up, are proving popular.
And there is potential growth for self-
tanners in the men’s category, according
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071 SPC0413 sun marketCH_spc feature template 02/12/2014 17:25 Page 77

5. to Lindsley, who notes:“In the UK, only
3% of men currently use self-tan products,
as compared to 15% of women, so gender
specific products could do well here.”
MORE THAN AN AFTERTHOUGHT
The aftersun market grew 2.6% to $637m
in 2012 and performed very well in Asia
Pacific with consumption increasing from a
small base.“The barrier to growth here is
that a lot of people just use moisturiser
following sun exposure, so aftersun is
competing with the body care market,”
states Tyrimou.
However, sun care brands are increasingly
positioning aftersun as a vital step in
people’s tanning routines. Hawaiian Tropic,
for example, plans to push its upcoming 24-
hour moisturisation and silk ribbon
technology aftersun product as being to sun
cream what conditioner is to shampoo, ie
maintaining the tan’s condition for longer.
Moreover, as is the case with sun
protection and self-tanning, manufacturers
are generating consumer interest through
the creation of aftersun with additional
benefits, such as whitening in products
aimed at the Asian market and tan
prolonging claims in those for western
consumers.
Lancaster, meanwhile, took a slightly
different approach, focusing on tan preparers
and complementary products. New products
include Tan Preparer Sun Preparing
Hydrating Serum for the face, which boosts
melanin production in addition to providing
an instant smoothing effect.
A GOLDEN FUTURE?
In 2014 and beyond, the greatest
opportunity regionally lies in China, whose
sun care market is predicted to overtake
South Korea’s next year.“The Chinese
economy is growing and more people are
going on holiday and being exposed to
messages about sun safety,” says Tyrimou.
“Also 74% of Chinese consumers say they
live in an area where they need to use sun
protection and 91% now say they can afford
sun care.”As consumers in China don’t tend
to sunbathe, she adds:“The focus should be
on sun protection products for the face –
the one area that Chinese consumers don’t
protect with clothing.”
On the format side, it remains to be seen
whether consumer faith in aerosol
sunscreens in general has been shaken by
the high profile recall of some of Banana
Boat’s mist sunscreens in October 2012,
following five instances of consumers who
caught fire after applying the product and
coming into contact with an open flame.
When it comes to sun care claims,
however, the personal care industry can
expect to see a continuation of this year’s
trends in 2013/14.“We will see more
formats, greater ease of application and
more segmentation into consumer groups
and products for specific areas and specific
events,” predicts Tyrimou.“There will be
more added benefits and a focus on high
SPF and UVA protection.” She adds that
there might be some focus on infrared
protection, but warns that consumers “may
not be ready to take yet another level of
protection into account”.
Ultimately, as Beiersdorf’s Goode
concludes:“Consumers continue to look
for products that make sun protection
application easier and more pleasurable and
this is where manufacturers should focus
their efforts. Give consumers a reason to
purchase over and above the expected
benefit of protecting them from the sun.”
market reportsun care
1 1/31/2013 4:28:46 PM
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