Gm ntu 8

1. DR. SHAGUFTA RIAZ
Introduction to Garment Manufacturing
(TE- 2114)
Sewing Thread
Apparel support Materials

2. CONTENTS
Sewing Thread
Types of Sewing Thread
Applications of Sewing Thread
Sewing thread selection criteria
Sewing thread functions
Use of alternatives to thread

3. SEWING THREAD
A major factor in
• Quality
• Performance
• Cost
• Durability
• Customer satisfaction

4. FUNCTIONS OF SEWING THREAD
1- Aesthetics
• Color
• Luster
• Fineness
• Hue
• Shade
• Color fastness
2- Performance
• Sew-ability (consistent loop formation)
• Seam performance (seam strength, loop formation, abrasion
resistance, elasticity, chemical resistance, flammability and
color fastness)

5. FEATURES OF SEWING THREAD
1. Fiber content (cotton, synthetic, specialty)
2. Thread structure (spun, multifilament, monofilament,
textured, core-spun, air-entangled, specialty)
3. Twist (S & Z)
4. Ply (single, two ply, three ply)
5. Color (color matching & color fastness)
6. Finishes (soft, mercerized, glazed)
7. Thread strength
8. Thread size (ticket number)(gm wt of 1000 mtr of un-
dyed sewing thread)

6. TYPES OF THREADS
Cotton Thread:
• Excellent sew-ability, loop forming and resistance to tangling
• Low elasticity, low strength, poor abrasion resistance
• Resistant to heat and does not melt
Synthetic Thread:
• Examples are Nylon and Polyester
• High in tenacity and abrasion resistance
• Strong threads with high elongation, low absorbency and low melting
points but effected by needle heat
Spun Thread:
• Made from staple fibers that are twisted together to form single yarns
and those yarns are then twisted together to form multiple ply sewing
thread
• Good stability and holding power, least expensive and available in
wide variety of sizes and colors

7. TYPES OF THREADS
Monofilament Thread:
• Made from single continuous fiber
• Can be blended with most of the fabrics due to its neutral
color and translucent appearance
• Strong and uniform, breakage during sewing is minimal,
relatively inexpensive but lack flexibility
Multifilament Thread:
• Smooth filament, high tenacity
• Nylon and polyester are the examples commonly used
• Mostly used for sewing shoes, leather products and tents
Textured Thread:
• Primarily used as looper thread for cover stitch
• Low luster and high abrasion

8. THREAD PACKAGES/ PUT-UPS
1. Spools
2. Cops
3. Cones
4. Vicones or King tubes
5. Containers
6. Cocoons
7. Prewound bobbins

9. ALTERNATIVES TO THREAD
Adhesives:
• Limited success
Ultrasonic welding:
• Much improved hand and wearable comfort
• High frequency vibrations to bond together two or more materials
• Vibrating generates a rapid buildup of heat within the material
which causes the materials to melt and fuse
• Mostly used to join, cut, pattern, and quilt synthetic materials that
are used in lingerie, medical disposables, and diapers
Laser-Enhanced bonding:
• Introduced in 1995 bobbin show by Union Special
• Flexible, stretchy and waterproof
• Used in protective footwear and wetsuits

10. SUPPORT MATERIALS
 To enhance the appearance and performance of garments
 Includes interlinings, linings, adhesives, tapes, shoulder pads,
sleeve headers, and collar stays
 Selection and application of the appropriate support materials
may have a major impact on the success and performance of the
style
 Used to provide:
• Shape
• Stability
• Reinforcements
• Increased retention

11. 1- INTERLININGS
 Materials that are fused or sewn to specific areas on
the inside of the garments or garment components
 Most extensively used support material in ready-to-
wear
 May provide
• Shape
• Support
• Stabilization
• Reinforcement
• Improved performance

13. CHARACTERISTICS OF INTERLININGS
Fiber Content: Contributes to
• Strength
• Hand
• Weight
• Resiliency of interlinings
Weight: Available in
• 0.4 to 4.0 ounces per square yard
• Heavier interlinings provide more support for
heavier, more structured garments while light
weight interlinings offer resiliency, some support
and softer hand

14. Fabrication: Available in
• Fiber webs/non-woven (most widely used, low cost, versatile)
• Woven (most expensive, subject to raveling and shrinkage)
• Knits (primarily warp knit tricots, strength in relation to
weight, low bulk and smooth hand)
• Foam laminates (used to improve body and increase stiffness,
stiffness, durability and warmth)
CHARACTERISTICS OF INTERLININGS

15. FUNCTIONS OF INTERLININGS
1- Aesthetics: Interlinings provide the shape and
stability to maintain same appearance through use,
care and storage
2- Performance: Interlinings may be used to reduce
raveling, provide stability, improve sew-ability and
handling. Usually used under embroidery to stabilize
fabrics for better stitching. May also be used for
reinforcement, durability of yokes, necklines, buttons,
buttonholes and increase durability of many low-count
and light weight fabrics

16. INTERLINING APPLICATIONS
1- Sew-In Interlinings:
• Directly sewn to garment components
• Require extra handling, manipulation & skilled operators
• Flexible and have fewer problems
• May be attached at different stages during stitching
2- Fusible Interlinings:
• Fabrications coated with some form of resin or adhesive (bonding to hold
interlining)
• Must be fused prior to construction of component
• Have more body, do not ravel, and easy to handle
• Fusing: The process of bonding fabric layers by application of heat and pressure for
a specific amount of time
• Dwell Time: The time required for fusing
• Time, pressure and heat are the main determinants for proper fusing
• Types of equipment: (a) Roller Presses (b) Flat bed presses (c) continuous pressing
machines (d) irons

17. 2- LININGS
 Materials that increase aesthetics and performance by supporting and/or
enclosing the interiors of garments or garment components
Characteristics of Linings:
Factors that contribute to the performance of linings are fiber content,
fabrication, finishes, hand and drape
Fiber Content:
• A major determinant of fabrication, aesthetics, performance and durability
• Synthetic fibers, nylon and polyester are used for durable lightweight linings
• Nylon and nylon/spandex blends are used in linings for active sportswear
• Acetate is used extensively for lining coats, jackets and skirts
• Cotton and rayon are used in linings for their hand and absorbency
• Wool is used as an insulative lining
• Silk is used for its aesthetics appeal, comfort and status

19. Weight:
• It affects wearing comfort, thermal comfort, compatibility,
hand and drape ability
• Generally lighter weight linings are selected for wearing
comfort, hand or drape ability while heavier linings are
selected for their support, shaping characteristics, and/or
warmth
Fabrication:
• It may affect the drape, opacity, durability, and thermal
comfort
• Range from lightest weight, balanced, plain weave to bulky
quilted or pile fabrics

20. FUNCTIONS OF LININGS
1- Aesthetics:
• To enhance aesthetic value of garments
• Can also be a means of covering poor construction
techniques and inferior materials
• Hand of lining should complement the aesthetics
• Needs to be flexible and soft
2- Performance:
Factors that affect quality and performance are:
• Fabric characteristics
• Design and structure
• Compatibility with other materials
• Garment structure and suitability

21. 3- Comfort:
• Protects human body from shell fabrics, seams and
support materials
• Provide garment fit
• Provide thermal comfort
Lining Applications:
• Jackets, skirts and coats
• Front, neck, waist or upper part of body

22. OTHER SUPPORT MATERIALS
1- Adhesives
• May be used as support materials or as bonding agents
• Used to stabilize, support and/or bond layers of fabric
together
• Synthetic, thermoplastic resins
• May be permanent or temporary
• Too much or too little resin can affect bond strength
and hand of the fabric

24. OTHER SUPPORT MATERIALS
2- Shoulder Pads
• Provide support and shape for desired shoulder
silhouette
• Add hanger appeal to garments
• Protect garments from hanger stress over long periods
• An integral part of the design
• Shoulder pads for men are different from shoulder pads
of women
• The most common materials for shoulder pads are
foams, needle punched fiber webs and wadding

26. 3- Sleeve Headers
• An additional support material used in moderate and better
quality tailored coats and jackets
• Basically used for enhanced appearance
• Provides a smooth hang over the arm
• Soft and flexible

27. 4- Tapes
• Used for shape retention and/or aesthetics
• Used to prevent stretching along shoulder seams and neck
edges of knit garments, provide shape retention of collar edges,
necklines and armholes of jackets
• May add color and interest to a style
• Fiber content of tape may be cotton, polyester, acetate, rayon, or
blends of these fibers

28. 5- Collar Stays
• Used to build shape retention into structured collars of
shirts and blouses
• Plastic collar stays are available in various types, lengths,
widths and weights
• Permanently attached stays are the fastest and least
expensive
• Removable stays are found in higher quality garments

30. TRIMS
• The raw materials used in sewing room other than fabric
are called Trims.
• On the other hand materials are directly attached with the
fabric to make a garment are called Trims.
• Such as : Threads, Buttons, Lining, Interlining, Zippers,
Labels, Labels etc.

31. TRIMS

32. TRIMS

33. TRIMS
• Materials used to ornament or enhance garments
• Increase hanger appeal
• Provide product differentiation
• Relate to current fashion trends
• Carry a theme
Possibilities are limited by
• Availability
• Design creativity
• Costs
• Equipment

34. Trims are grouped into four Categories
1. Bindings
2. Edgings
3. Flat applications
4. Other trims
Selected Types of Trims include:
• Embroidery
• Lace
• Appliques
• Knit trims
• Screen printing
• Heat transfers
• labels

35. DECORATIVE & FUNCTIONAL TRIMS
Decorative Trims:
To enhance aesthetic appeal but not essential to garment
function and performance. E.g., embroideries, screen printing and
appliques
Functional Trims:
An integral part of garment structure and use. Serve a specific
purpose in performance and aesthetics. E.g., knit collars and cuffs,
buttons, edge finishes, and labels
Note:
Trims are often applied to garment components prior to assembly
to facilitate handling and application

36. TYPES OF TRIMS
Bindings:
• Functional trims
• Finish outer edges (necklines, armholes, hems, and front openings)
Piping:
• Covered cord that forms a raised edge along seams
• Stabilize seams, outline components, and absorb wear and
abrasion
Laces:
• Used to trim necklines and sleeves
• Stiff hand

38. TYPES OF TRIMS
Flat Trims:
• Applied to surface for ornamentation
• Twill tapes, ribbons, knit tubes, embroidery, screen printing
etc.
Knit Trims:
• Functional trims
• Used as bindings and edgings
• Aesthetics added through color, pattern, and texture
• Primarily used on knit sportswear but may also be used on
woven sportswear
• Other types are Circular knit trims and rib trims

39. Embroidery:
• An art form that uses close or overlapping stitches to form
intricate, three-dimensional surface designs to embellish
piece goods, trims, or garments
• May be applied directly, or as individual emblems that are
an add-on type of trim
Appliques:
• Emblems or cut-out fabric shapes, figures or motifs that are
superimposed and sewn or fused to garment components
• May be a single ply of fabric, preembroidered sequin, or
emblems

40. Inset Trims:
• Frequently formed from laces, or contrasting fabrics and
used on fronts of sleepwear, blouses, dresses and so on
• Cut to a specific shape and inserted into a garment
component
Lace:
• An ornamental open work fabric or trim made into a variety
of designs
• Types of laces includes Leavers lace, Raschel knit, Venise
Lace, Solvron

41. Screen Printing:
• The process of applying a printing medium through a
mesh stencil to produce a surface design
• Focus on contemporary themes, humor, politics, logos,
status symbols, or aesthetics enhancement
• Applied on t-shirts, jackets, hats, shorts, blouses, dresses,
and athletic uniforms
Heat Transfer Prints:
• Transferring of an image to a substrate by applying heat
and pressure
• Specific temperature and time are crucial
• Available in stretch, flock, puff, reflective and foil designs

42. Digital Printing:
• No screen or complicated setup, design flexibility,
small orders, limited fabric inventory, and minimal
waste
Labels:
• Provides information about manufacturer, consumer,
brand name, fiber content, COO, and care
information
• Different types includes brand label, size label and
other informational labels

45. QUIZ 1 TOTAL MARKS 10
Q.1
What is feed preparation? If inspection, sorting or bundling
during feed preparation is not properly done what could be the
effect on final product? (3)
Q.2
How many types of sewing machine have been used in apparel
industry? Write name and function of five of them.
(2)
Q.3
Describe briefly stitch properties that are responsible for
garment quality (3)
Q.4
What are main stitch classes? Write their names and where they
have been applied in garment manufacturing? (2)