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PROJECT ON
ESTABLISHMENT
AND
MAINTENANCE
OF DIFFERENT
ATHLETIC FIELDS
SAM HIGGINBOTTOM UNIVERSITY OF
AGRICULTURE, TECHNOLOGY AND SCIENCES
Course Title :– Turfing and Turf management
Course Code:– HOFL 722
Presented to:
Dr. Urfi Fatmi
Asst. Professor
Dept. Of Horticulture
SHUATS
Presented By:
Nishchay-19MSHFC011(Golf Course)
Y. Venkata Reddy-19MSHFC012(Cricket Ground)
Veer Aman Raju-19MSHFC013(Golf Course)
G. Mounika-19MSHFC014(Tennis Court)
V S K Keerthan Paruchuru-
19MSHFC015(Football Field)
M.Sc. Ag. Horti (Floriculture and Landscaping)
Semester -2
Establishment and
Maintenance of
1) Golf course
2) Football and Cricket field
3) Tennis court
1.Golf course 4
A golf course is the grounds where the game of golf is played. It
comprises a series of holes, each consisting of a teeing ground ,
a fairways, the rough and other hazards, and a green with a flagstick
("pin") and hole ("cup"). A standard round of golf consists of 18
holes. Most courses contain 18 holes; some share fairways or
greens, and a subset has nine holes, played twice per round. Par-3
courses consist of nine or 18 holes all of which have a par of three
strokes.
Many older courses are links, often coastal. Courses are private,
public, or municipally owned, and typically feature a pro shop.
Many private courses are found at country clubs.
Establishment of Golf course
Golf course
features:
1 = Tee box
2 = Water hazard
3 = Rough
4 = Out of bounds
5 = Bunker
6 = Water hazard
7 = Fairway
8 = Putting green
9 = Pin
10 = Hole
Establishment of Golf course
Site Preparation
Identifying and developing the
power and water sources
Land clearing
Rough grading
Shaping of features
such as greens, tees, and bunkers
Surveying and Staking
Identify sensitive areas such as wetlands and flood plains
Locate reference points such as fence rows, large trees, trails and streams
Once these areas are located maps can be generated to indicate the general size
and location of the fairways and greens are identified.
The overall grading design with existing and proposed contours. Locations of
irrigation , shelters, cart paths, roadways, etc.
Land Clearing
Clearing should begin along the centerline for a width of 20 to 50 feet
Vegetation is stocked pilled, burned or removed from the site
Specimen tree should be marked
This phase should be done in stages to prevent any irreparable
damages
Clearing is then done to the perimeters of each hole
Trees that are not going to be removed need to be protected
Areas out of play should be left undisturbed to provide habitat for
wildlife
After vegetation has been removed
Stumps, roots, rocks and stones need to be removed to a depth of 12
to 15 inches (Grubbing)
Do not bury organic materials
Rough Grading
All major contours and features of the course’s subgrade are set to
shape within 6 inches of the final grade (this often requires heavy earth
moving equipment)
Topsoil is often stock piled and spread back over the course
Grade stakes are utilized trough out the hole to indicate where the
subgrade needs to be cut of filled based on the plan for the course's
construction
Seed bed preparation begins once the subgrade is completed
The subgrade should mirror the final grade
The subgrade should result in positive surface drainage with a 1-2 %
grade
Rough grading is finished when all topsoil is properly placed back in
position.
Soil Cultivation
After rough grading is complete the soil is often severely compacted
The soil can be cultivated using chisel plows, sub soilers, disks, harrows or plows
Drainage
Storm water drainage must be designed to conform with local regulations
regarding upstream and down stream watersheds
100-year rain fall maximums are used.
Water- Retention Facilities
Lakes, ponds, dams, spillways etc are part of the storm water management and
irrigation source
Usually located at the low end of the course or throughout the course
Seedbed Preparation
 Topsoil is spread over all areas except greens, tees, and bunkers
Take precautions to ensure that the contours of the course are not
altered
6 inches of topsoil needs to be added to all fairways, tee and green
surrounds
4 inch minimum of topsoil added to the drought areas
Once the topsoil is in place cultivation needs to be done to a depth
of 6 inches
The soil is then raked to a depth of 4 inches and any rocks larger
than ½ inch diameter needs to be removed
The soil is the ready for any amendments that may need to be added
Soil Modification
 Sandy soils
 Clay based soils
 Soil should be modified to a depth of at least 6 inches
 Soil pH and Fertility amendments
 Soil sample
 Easily done before planting when they can be incorporated into the
soil
 Fumigation
 Smoothing the seed bed to remove any depressions or rough areas
 Breaking up large clods of dirt
 Removing roots and stems
 Smoothing low and high spots
 And conditioning the seedbed for planting
Maintenance
Depending on the growth of the grass mowing frequencies will vary from anywhere
between daily and twice weekly. Local conditions, type of course, sward and mower
type are all factors in mowing heights. the less stress placed on the grass at this vital
time the better results will be during the season, so remember not to remove more than
1/3 of total grass height in each cut.
Brushing/switching greens and tees daily will help remove moisture from the grass
surface, which stops the spread of disease.
Aeration can vary between solid and hollow tine spiking depending on your goals,
with the aim of getting some air back into the soil profile. Vert-draining using solid
tines to around 8 inches should help the roots chase moisture down the soil profile,
providing the sward with a stronger root system.
For golf, winter pitches and bowling greens, the dominant particle range in the sand
should be medium sand (0.250mm to 0.5mm).
In the spring you should look to spread between half to one and half tonnes of
material per green, and many are now topdressing on a monthly basis.
Obtaining nutrient levels for greens, tees and fairways will provide essential
information that can be used when choosing fertilizer.
Damaged blades will affect sward quality so it’s important that your
mowing machines are serviced regularly and are set up correctly.
Irrigation systems should have been tested and calibrated by now,
sprinklers should be done once a year to ensure the spray pattern and
coverage is sufficient for your needs. You can accomplish this with a
number of catch cans on your green and measure water collected.
Once these spring renovations are completed, you can then get on with
the daily routines of maintenance.
By the end of May, the aim is to reduce mowing heights to around 3.5-
6mm, with weather permitting and mowing operations being in full
swing. Grooming and vert-cutting units to remove unwanted thatch and
side shoot growths will also complement this work.
Greens - Mowing height should remain at around 6-8mm.
Tees - Mowing height should remain at around 10-15mm.
Banks - Mowing height should remain at 22-30mm
Fairways - Mowing height should remain at around 15-25mm.
Mow and tidy rough, semi rough grass areas - you can reduce build up
of clippings by cutting little and often with a rotary or flail. Mowing
height of cut during winter should be between 50-100mm, depending on
type of course and the standard of play required.
How can the grass on the greens at a golf course be so perfect?
If you have ever really looked at the grass on a well-maintained golf green,
it is absolutely amazing--it is a flawless surface made out of plants! To
make it this perfect takes a lot of work.
The work starts by creating what is practically a hydroponic system for
growing the grass. When constructing the green, a bulldozer creates a 12-
inch to 16-inch (30 to 40 cm) deep hole the size of the green. In the most
advanced systems, this hole is completely lined with plastic, and then
gravel, drainage pipes and sand are added. The green's grass grows in a
sterile sand medium with perfect drainage! The surface is contoured to
allow perfect run-off as well, so there is no puddling when it rains.
Where you put the green is also important. It needs plenty
of sunlight (preferably full sunlight with no surrounding trees) and good
airflow over the green.
Then you choose perfect grass.
A sterile sand medium and a good location controls for a huge number of
variables, but now the grass is totally dependent on its keepers for life support.
That means the grass needs a steady diet of water and nutrients to keep it alive.
To this mix is added a variety of herbicides (to kill weeds that try to move in),
pesticides (to control insect damage) and fungicides (to control disease) to help
keep the grass perfect.
Once the green is established, you start in on maintenance. This includes daily
mowing with a precision green mower, watering, fertilizing, applying
chemicals, aerating, and general coddling.
If you were willing to do all of this, you too could have a golf green in your
front yard
2.(i)FOOTBALL FIELD 19
A dense, wear-resistant sod is essential on athletic fields and
play areas to provide playing safety, good footing, and a
pleasing appearance. Production and maintenance of such a
turf depend on the kinds of grasses used, proper design and
construction, good soil drainage, proper seedbed preparation,
adequate fertility, and a maintenance program which
recognizes the special nature of the care involved.
Construction methods
The construction method that is selected must be considered in
relation to climate and local soils, anticipated usage levels, the
quality of the pitch that is required and the budget available.
This is discussed in more detail in the sections covering the
various climate regions. Representative cross-sections for
some of the main methods of construction are given below.
Basic pipe drainage
Pipe and Slit drainage
Sand carpet construction
Soil over a drainage layer
Establishment of Football field
Seedbed preparation
Seed preparation is a critical operation in constructing an athletic area.
Improper seedbed preparation or preparation under adverse weather or
soil moisture conditions may result in complete seeding failure. Working
soils containing excessive moisture, especially with heavy equipment,
will destroy the physical condition of the soil. Destruction of the soil
physical condition increases soil compaction with a resultant reduction
in aeration and drainage of the soil. Compaction impedes the movement
of fertilizer nutrients, water, and air into the soil. The basic premise in
modifying soils with sand and/or organic matter is to reduce the
compatibility of the soil.
Grasses and seed mixtures
The species and variety of grass and the quality of the seed are
important items in constructing an athletic field.
 Turf should be composed of those species the are most wear resistant
and at the same time capable of quickly healing injuries caused by play.
Kentucky bluegrass varieties vary greatly in their genetic base and
consequently show considerable variation in resistance and/or
susceptibility to various turfgrass diseases, growth habit, vigor, density,
color, mowing height tolerance, and nutrient requirements.
Seedings of Kentucky bluegrass blends or Kentucky bluegrass and fine
fescue mixtures may be supplemented with 10 to 15 percent improved
turf type ryegrass is desired. When seedings are made at other than
optimum times such as early to mid-summer and late fall, it is desirable
to include 15 to 20 percent improved ryegrass in the mixture.
FOOTBALL FIELD TURFGRASSES
Seeded Fields need to have time to establish with 2 months to 12
months required depending on species.
 Time must be allowed for fields to mature and establish when seeding
cool season grasses for football use.
 Aggressive fertilization programs coupled with correct irrigation are
essential to maintaining a field.
Practice fields for rotational purposes are an important part of the
maintenance program for football fields.
 Over seeding of Perennial Ryegrass can help with wear, but there is
not substitute for the ability to lay a field out-of-play while it repairs.
 It also needs to be done while the field is out of play for good
establishment to occur.
WARM SEASON
Bermudagrass is the DOMINATE choice for Football due to Bermuda's excellent
turf quality and the ability to be mowed low for faster Athletic usage speeds.
Over seeding with Perennial Ryegrass in the fall is usually done to help keep
wear minimal and provide for a green field color.
Perennial Ryegrass should be used because it does NOT stain clothing as bad as
Annual ryegrass.
TRANSITIONAL
Bermudagrasses are impacted by their off-color during winter dormancy and the
higher risk of plant loss due to winter kill from low temperatures.
Bermudagrass fields must also be over seeded each fall with Ryegrasses (during
a break in schedule) to avoid playing on dormant / brown fields in the fall.
Additional re-seeding of ryegrass as the season progresses is usually required.
Kentucky Bluegrass is also used in the more NORTHERN parts of the
transitional zone.
COOL SEASON
Here in this area Kentucky Bluegrass is the DOMINATE choice. Its
aggressive growth and recuperative abilities (rhizomes). It is also
considered a safer playing surface because of the cushioning effects
of its thatch layer. Bluegrass is though slow to fully establish,
taking generally 1 year to mature. You can generally seed in spring
with use beginning in the fall. Perennial Ryegrass is often added to
mixtures of Bluegrass for field use, especially for fast repair jobs.
Maintenance of football field
A good maintenance program is just as necessary to ensure athletic field turf
of satisfactory quality as are sound establishment methods.
The essentials of such a program are:
That it is managed to produce tough grass with maximum wear resistance.
That it be designed to maintain high density to resist weed invasion and
encroachment of undesirable grasses.
That it encourage deep rooting to provide good anchorage and firm footing.
That mowing height be adjusted to both grass requirements and playing
demands.
That fertilizing and watering be done at such times and in such a manner as
to provide steady growth with maximum quality.
That considerations be given to the endurance limits of the turf in scheduling
use of the field.
That provision be made for repair of injuries due to wear or other causes.
The following outline of maintenance operations and methods is designed to
meet these requirements.
Mowing
Grass should be cut often and at a height adjusted to the predominating grass in the
mixture. Kentucky bluegrass, fine fescue, improved ryegrass, or mixtures of these
grasses should not be cut to a height of less than 1½ to 2 inches.
 Tall fescue should not be cut to a height of less than 2 to 2½ inches. Frequency of
mowing is governed by the growth rate of the grass.
 Cutting should be done whenever grass grows three-quarters to 1 inch above the
cutting height. No more than one-third of the total leaf surface should be removed at any
mowing.
 If this practice is followed, it is not necessary or desirable to change the mowing
height at any time. Bermudagrass should be kept one-half inch high by frequent mowing.
Watering
Irrigate only when the grass shows
signs of wilting and discoloration
because of lack of water. Equipment
should be adjusted to apply water only
as fast as the soil will absorb it.
A soil sampling probe can be used to
determine the rate and depth of moisture
penetration. Sprinklers should be
operated until water has penetrated to a
depth of at least 6 inches.
Traveling types of sprinklers will
provide more uniform water distribution
than stationary kinds, unless the latter
are checked often.
Periodic aerations will speed up water
penetration and usually results in more
efficient water use.
Aeration
Constant trampling often causes a compact, impermeable surface layer of
soil.
This condition can be aggravated by mowing, rolling, or using other
heavy equipment when soils are wet.
Compaction cannot be avoided under such conditions, and when it
develops, grass roots are injured because of insufficient moisture and air to
assure normal functioning.
 In addition, it becomes more difficult for water and fertilizer to penetrate
the soil. Sand fields, especially when relatively new, generally require less
aeration than soil fields.
 However, as sand fields mature, organic matter build-up may develop in
the surface 2 to 3 inches and increased aeration will be required.
Lime application
The lime requirement of soils should be tested every 3 or 4 years. This service is
available at a minimal cost through the Agricultural Extension Service or private
soil testing laboratories. Lime should be applied whenever the soil shows a pH of
less than 6.2 or a lime requirement of more than 1,000 pounds of limestone per acre.
Applications can be made at any time. Usually it is most effective and convenient to
apply limestone in late fall following thorough aeration or during the winter on
frozen turf. Ground agricultural limestone is the recommended form of lime to use.
Where soil tests show a deficiency of magnesium, ground dolomitic limestone
should be used.
Fertilization
The maintenance fertilizer program should be based on complete soil test results.
Required amounts of phosphate and/or potash vary greatly with the natural soil
fertility, establishment fertilization, and previous maintenance fertilization. Most
athletic areas will require two complete fertilizer applications per year although
some soil fields may require only one complete fertilizer application supplemented
with one or more nitrogen applications.
Football Pitch Maintenance Tips
Typical problems on football pitches
2.(ii)Cricket Field 43
Cricket Field
Cricket pitches should be prepared hard and flat to produce a good
playing surface. The aim is to have a pitch that offers assistance to the
batsman and the bowlers. For this to occur, we need a surface that
offers pace and bounce. Slow pitches are difficult for the batsman to
play shots on and offer no assistance to the bowler.
To achieve a fast surface we need an even coverage of grass and then
we compact the wicket through rolling. Evaporation will dry the
surface of the pitch and the turf grass roots will assist in drying the
pitch deeper down in the profile. This is needed to create a pitch with
pace and bounce.
Establishment of Cricket field
Pitch - This is the area that the game of cricket is played on. It should be
flat and hard and have the crease markings painted on. The markings
will be 66 feet long by 8 feet 8 inches wide however you usually cut
and roll a bigger area than this, 10 feet wide and around 78 feet long.
The type of turf to use
In temperate countries, ryegrass is generally the chosen grass to use on
pitches. In the tropical and sub-tropical regions, however, varieties of
Bermuda (Cynodon, couch, kweek) are used almost exclusively for
cricket pitches. Bayview Bermuda and Skaapplaas are now widely
used, having replaced the Magennis which was used in the earlier days.
Cool season grasses
These perform well in a temperate climate and the ideal temperature
range is between around 15 to 22 degrees Celsius.
Perennial Ryegrass Lolium perenne is a C3 grass and is the best of the
cool season grasses for cricket pitches. It is quick germinating, has quite
good wear tolerance, a dark green colour and is visually pleasing. On the
downside it does not like to be cut too low, has poor recovery if there are
bare areas as it can not creep, it has poor heat and drought tolerance, and
it retains its green colour on cricket pitches.
Perennial Ryegrass features
It is generally purplish at the base of the stems , Leaves are shinny on the
back , Leaves dull on the front with veins showing , Erect growing grass,
can become clumpy
Warm season grasses
These are suited to sub-tropical climates and perform well in
temperatures between 25 to 32 degrees Celsius. Couch Grass
Cynodon dactylon is a C4 grass and is an excellent grass for
cricket pitches as long as it is actively growing. Some added
benefits of couch for pitch preparation when it is actively growing
are it is a hard-wearing grass that is heat and drought tolerant. It
can handle high levels of salt in the soil, be closely mown as well
as withstands rolling and has good recovery due to its capacity to
creep by rhizomes and stolons. On the downside of couch it goes
dormant when the temperature is too low.
Couch Grass features
Dark green color ,Will vary slightly in color depending on
variety/cultivar , Creeping habit , Has above ground runners
(stolons) and below ground runners (rhizomes) , Drought tolerant.
Grass establishment
Soak the total area before planting. All hollows and sagged areas should
be filled. The grass should be planted only when the surface is dry enough
to walk on without having clay stick to one's shoes.
The grass (Skaapplaas or Bayview) can be planted in one of two
ways:(a) Grass sods are washed and torn apart to separate all the sprigs.
The sprigs are then laid on the scored bulli surface and the entire sprig-
covered area thoroughly wetted. A thin (10mm) layer of fine bulli is then
spread carefully over the sprigs.
(b) Grass plugs can be planted in hollow-tine holes with the bulli
slightly moist. Plugs should be spaced about 75mm apart.
The planted area should be watered at least once a day with a fine
nozzle sprayer until there are signs of sprouting. Daily watering should
continue until the grass has covered at least 75% of the area. A light
dressing of dry bulli can then be spread over the pitch and levelled with a
straight edge.
Maintenance
Roller - There are two main types of rollers. The most used are walk behind
rollers that are powered by petrol driven motors. The roller may be empty,
water filled, sand filled, or concrete filled.
Rotary mower – Is used to pick up the debris after scarifying. Also used to
cut new seeded turf when it is young, as the cylinder mower may pull the
young plant out of the soil.
Thatch
Thatch results from the build-up of organic matter at the surface. (Interestingly,
dung used to be sprayed onto pitches in England in the early days to deliberately
produce lifeless pitches - no doubt spurred on by the great WG). Thatch build-up
should be avoided at all costs. Whether it lies on the surface or within the profile, it
acts to cushion the impact of the ball and will slow the pace of the pitch (although it
will increase the bounce of moderate to slow paced pitches).
Mowing
Not more than 30 to 40% of the leaf
material should ever be removed at a
single mowing. More intense mowing
than this would severely retard the
development of the root system and
cause some of the roots to die -
further adding organic matter to the
pitch. Therefore, it is often
recommended that the cutting height
be gradually reduced during
preparation. This also means that a
greater amount of leaf will remain on
the pitch during the preparation
period, allowing the grass to more
effectively dry out the sub-surface
soil.
Irrigation
Irrigation is best done by using sprinklers which give a fine mist spray. Large
droplets are likely to cause 'potholes' on the pitch.
Avoid pools of water lying on the pitch surface. Water penetrates bulli very
slowly.
After irrigation, grass cuttings often collect at certain points on the surface.
These cuttings must be brushed off the pitch.
A hessian or bidum cover on the pitch in hot, dry, windy weather ensures good
moisture retention by the pitch.
Drainage
Most drainage problems in cricket pitches result from water penetrating
under the table from the surrounding areas since water infiltrates only
slowly into the bulli itself. In most situations a gravel bed under the
whole table is not considered essential, but the square must be
surrounded by a ring drain. This should be close enough to the surface to
allow a fork to be used to get rid of surface water. The ring-drain should
lead into a sump connected to a drain which will lead the water from the
field. Where waterlogging is a potential problem, a firm foundation
should be produced from angular 6 - 10 mm diameter gravel. Bulli/sand
mixtures can be used to ease the transition from the gravel to the pure
bulli.
FERTILISING
Phosphorus, potash, calcium, magnesium and sulphur should be applied according
to soil test (note that there should always be less magnesium than calcium in the
bulli and that superphosphate should be not be applied too liberally because the
sulphur it contains will promote crumbling).
In pitch maintenance Apart from the fact that the turf cover on cricket pitches is
expected to survive the harsh treatment of constant close cutting with a mower, and
the bruising effects of rolling, the natural ability of the grass to grow is still further
hindered by the long periods that the pitch is dried out. Pitch soil, being black in
colour, absorbs heat and becomes so hot that new growth of grass tends to be
scorched. In addition, there is the pounding effect of the cricket ball and the effect
of sharp studs now in common use on boots. It is indeed remarkable that the grass
cover of a turf pitch can possibly survive such rough treatment, and it is not
surprising that, from time to time, bare patches tend to develop, apart from those
areas which are torn up by footmarks of the players.
3.Tennis Court 55
Tennis Court
A tennis court is the venue where the sport of tennis is played. It is a firm
rectangular surface with a low net stretched across the centre. The same
surface can be used to play both doubles and singles matches. A variety of
surfaces can be used to create a tennis court, each with its own
characteristics which affect the playing style of the game.
Porous Grass Courts - Grass courts generally require
professional maintenance because they must be maintained on a
daily basis much like golf greens. Special drainage and sand
construction is often used.
For tournament play, the International Tennis Federation
(ITF) and Lawn Tennis Association (LTA) advise that a single court
should ideally be 36.57m x 18.29m, which includes run-offs of 6.40m
at each end and 3.66 on either side. The minimum club court size is
34.75m x 17.07m, however, areas such as public parks may be
permitted even further reductions.
Orientation is also crucial. As the sun rises in the East and sets in the
West, it is preferable to always have courts running from North to
South to avoid the sun causing disruption to play.
RECOMMENDED GRASSES
WARM SEASON
Bermudagrass is best choice. – Over seed in winter. High quality hybrid vegetative
varieties such as tifway, etc. are best choice. There are some courts using Princess 77
or other improved seeded varieties. Mowing is generally required on a daily basis to
maintain low heights needed for good ball play.
TRANSITIONAL
Creeping Bent grasses or Bermudagrass is best choice with over seeding of Bermuda
with Perennial ryegrass in fall.
COOL SEASON
Creeping Bent grasses are best choices. Penncross is best variety for a home-owner
type court. Maintenance issues can run high.
ARTIFICIAL TURF GRASS
Attitude Artificial turf is a surface of synthetic fibers made to look like natural grass. It is
most often used in arenas for sports that were originally or are normally played on grass.
However, it is now being used on residential lawns and commercial applications as well.
The main reason is maintenance: artificial turf stands up to heavy use, such as in sports,
and requires no irrigation or trimming. Domed, covered, and partially covered stadiums
may require artificial turf because of the difficulty of getting grass enough sunlight to stay
healthy. But artificial turf does have its downside: limited life, periodic cleaning
requirements, petroleum use, toxic chemicals from infill, and heightened health and safety
concerns.
•Tennis synthetic grass is highly optimized for tennis play and player comfort. It
provides a very even and non-directional playing surface.
•The dense pile is sand filled, with the sand worked into the pile the surface is flat
and flexible. The play takes place on the tennis turf pile itself, which allows optimal
pivoting and turning and with some resilience combines to make play more
comfortable and the chance of playing an extra set an attractive prospect.
•In short, our tennis turf will provide a safe and high-performance surface.
Pros of the Artificial Grass Surface for
Tennis Court
•Low maintenance costs
•Hard-wearing surface
•High weather-resistance
•Player-friendliness
•Relatively low construction cost compared
to other surfaces
We ensure grass courts are built to Lawn Tennis Association (LTA) and Sport
England specifications.
1) EXCAVATION FOR COURT FORMATION
Subsoil is excavated for the court formation and the surface laser-levelled. An
uneven underlying formation leads to mismatched depths within the first loam layer,
affecting performance and play.
2) DRAINAGE, IRRIGATION AND GRAVEL CARPET
Drainage is an essential aspect of any new grass tennis court. Effective drainage
ensures consistent moisture levels across the court.
3) LEVEL, CONSOLIDATE AND KEY
Each layer of loam is laser-levelled. Thorough consolidation removes air pockets
and ensures there’s a good bond between each layer of loam. As part of our expert
service we specify tennis loam with low clay content, essential for a deep-
rooted, high-performance sward that recovers quickly from wear.
4) PREPARE FINAL SURFACE AND SEED
The final tilth is prepared, fertiliser applied, and grass seed sown.
Maintenance
Mowing
The Centre Court is pampered with three mows a week, upped to daily mowing as the
Championship nears. Daily cuttings may be excessive for your local tennis court, but we
would recommend mowing about three times a week towards the busy tennis period.
Keeping with Wimbledon’s guidelines, tennis court grass should be cut to 15mm and
maintained throughout the winter. When the tennis season begins, the ideal playing height
of grass is 8mm.
Nourishment
Alongside regular mowing, you should keep the grass strong with extra nutrients. These
nutrients will fortify the grass to withstand the extra people using the courts during the
summer months. For those local tennis clubs without the permanent Wimbledon ground
staff, summer lawn feed is easy to apply to the whole court while providing an even
coverage. Another ideal product is our ‘Cold Pressed’ Liquid Seaweed, which encourages
healthy grass that is more drought and frost resistant. This is essential for grass that needs to
be kept short, and therefore more susceptible to the weather. When choosing lawn feed, the
season should be considered to provide the best tailored care for the weather conditions.
High quality lawn feed also contains magnesium which produces chlorophyll to give your
tennis grass its rich green colour in the warmer months.
In addition to the above regular maintenance the below seasonal
maintenance is also required for a grass court in play all year:
Scarification mechanically raises the surface to prevent compaction.
This should be completed annually once the soil temperature increases
Rolling which is usually completed in the springtime to rectify and
problems from the winter months
Completed during the winter months aeration is required to assist
with drainage along with deep rooting
The worn areas need to be seeded to encourage new growth
To maintain turf quality top dressing is required
Maintenance of the foundations; drainage, soil and the grass.
Artificial Grass Tennis Court Color Options
• Red / Summer-Green
• Red / Green
• Green / Summer-Green
• Green / Green
• Summer-Green / Summer-Green
• Blue / Green
References
• https://www.slideshare.net/VijaykumarBNarayanpur/lawn-55263348
• https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Golf_course
• https://golfsupport.com/blog/main-types-grass-golf/
• https://www.football-stadiums.co.uk/articles/football-pitch-grass-types/
• https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Artificial_turf
• http://vicsportsturf.asn.au/wp-
content/uploads/2016/01/VCAWicketPrep20101.pdf
• https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tennis_court
• http://evergreentenniscourts.com/Pages/SyntheticTurfTennisCourts
• https://sportslabs.files.wordpress.com/2013/11/guide-to-natural-grass-
pitches_e.pdf
• https://www.dennisuk.com/football-pitch-maintenance-tips/
• https://science.howstuffworks.com/life/botany/question428.htm
• https://www.tenniskit24.com/guides/tennis-court-construction/
THANK YOU

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Project on establishment and maintenance of different athletic fields

  • 2. SAM HIGGINBOTTOM UNIVERSITY OF AGRICULTURE, TECHNOLOGY AND SCIENCES Course Title :– Turfing and Turf management Course Code:– HOFL 722 Presented to: Dr. Urfi Fatmi Asst. Professor Dept. Of Horticulture SHUATS Presented By: Nishchay-19MSHFC011(Golf Course) Y. Venkata Reddy-19MSHFC012(Cricket Ground) Veer Aman Raju-19MSHFC013(Golf Course) G. Mounika-19MSHFC014(Tennis Court) V S K Keerthan Paruchuru- 19MSHFC015(Football Field) M.Sc. Ag. Horti (Floriculture and Landscaping) Semester -2
  • 3. Establishment and Maintenance of 1) Golf course 2) Football and Cricket field 3) Tennis court
  • 5. A golf course is the grounds where the game of golf is played. It comprises a series of holes, each consisting of a teeing ground , a fairways, the rough and other hazards, and a green with a flagstick ("pin") and hole ("cup"). A standard round of golf consists of 18 holes. Most courses contain 18 holes; some share fairways or greens, and a subset has nine holes, played twice per round. Par-3 courses consist of nine or 18 holes all of which have a par of three strokes. Many older courses are links, often coastal. Courses are private, public, or municipally owned, and typically feature a pro shop. Many private courses are found at country clubs.
  • 6. Establishment of Golf course Golf course features: 1 = Tee box 2 = Water hazard 3 = Rough 4 = Out of bounds 5 = Bunker 6 = Water hazard 7 = Fairway 8 = Putting green 9 = Pin 10 = Hole
  • 7. Establishment of Golf course Site Preparation Identifying and developing the power and water sources Land clearing Rough grading Shaping of features such as greens, tees, and bunkers Surveying and Staking Identify sensitive areas such as wetlands and flood plains Locate reference points such as fence rows, large trees, trails and streams Once these areas are located maps can be generated to indicate the general size and location of the fairways and greens are identified. The overall grading design with existing and proposed contours. Locations of irrigation , shelters, cart paths, roadways, etc.
  • 8. Land Clearing Clearing should begin along the centerline for a width of 20 to 50 feet Vegetation is stocked pilled, burned or removed from the site Specimen tree should be marked This phase should be done in stages to prevent any irreparable damages Clearing is then done to the perimeters of each hole Trees that are not going to be removed need to be protected Areas out of play should be left undisturbed to provide habitat for wildlife After vegetation has been removed Stumps, roots, rocks and stones need to be removed to a depth of 12 to 15 inches (Grubbing) Do not bury organic materials
  • 9. Rough Grading All major contours and features of the course’s subgrade are set to shape within 6 inches of the final grade (this often requires heavy earth moving equipment) Topsoil is often stock piled and spread back over the course Grade stakes are utilized trough out the hole to indicate where the subgrade needs to be cut of filled based on the plan for the course's construction Seed bed preparation begins once the subgrade is completed The subgrade should mirror the final grade The subgrade should result in positive surface drainage with a 1-2 % grade Rough grading is finished when all topsoil is properly placed back in position.
  • 10. Soil Cultivation After rough grading is complete the soil is often severely compacted The soil can be cultivated using chisel plows, sub soilers, disks, harrows or plows Drainage Storm water drainage must be designed to conform with local regulations regarding upstream and down stream watersheds 100-year rain fall maximums are used. Water- Retention Facilities Lakes, ponds, dams, spillways etc are part of the storm water management and irrigation source Usually located at the low end of the course or throughout the course
  • 11. Seedbed Preparation  Topsoil is spread over all areas except greens, tees, and bunkers Take precautions to ensure that the contours of the course are not altered 6 inches of topsoil needs to be added to all fairways, tee and green surrounds 4 inch minimum of topsoil added to the drought areas Once the topsoil is in place cultivation needs to be done to a depth of 6 inches The soil is then raked to a depth of 4 inches and any rocks larger than ½ inch diameter needs to be removed The soil is the ready for any amendments that may need to be added
  • 12. Soil Modification  Sandy soils  Clay based soils  Soil should be modified to a depth of at least 6 inches  Soil pH and Fertility amendments  Soil sample  Easily done before planting when they can be incorporated into the soil  Fumigation  Smoothing the seed bed to remove any depressions or rough areas  Breaking up large clods of dirt  Removing roots and stems  Smoothing low and high spots  And conditioning the seedbed for planting
  • 13. Maintenance Depending on the growth of the grass mowing frequencies will vary from anywhere between daily and twice weekly. Local conditions, type of course, sward and mower type are all factors in mowing heights. the less stress placed on the grass at this vital time the better results will be during the season, so remember not to remove more than 1/3 of total grass height in each cut. Brushing/switching greens and tees daily will help remove moisture from the grass surface, which stops the spread of disease. Aeration can vary between solid and hollow tine spiking depending on your goals, with the aim of getting some air back into the soil profile. Vert-draining using solid tines to around 8 inches should help the roots chase moisture down the soil profile, providing the sward with a stronger root system. For golf, winter pitches and bowling greens, the dominant particle range in the sand should be medium sand (0.250mm to 0.5mm). In the spring you should look to spread between half to one and half tonnes of material per green, and many are now topdressing on a monthly basis. Obtaining nutrient levels for greens, tees and fairways will provide essential information that can be used when choosing fertilizer.
  • 14. Damaged blades will affect sward quality so it’s important that your mowing machines are serviced regularly and are set up correctly. Irrigation systems should have been tested and calibrated by now, sprinklers should be done once a year to ensure the spray pattern and coverage is sufficient for your needs. You can accomplish this with a number of catch cans on your green and measure water collected. Once these spring renovations are completed, you can then get on with the daily routines of maintenance. By the end of May, the aim is to reduce mowing heights to around 3.5- 6mm, with weather permitting and mowing operations being in full swing. Grooming and vert-cutting units to remove unwanted thatch and side shoot growths will also complement this work.
  • 15. Greens - Mowing height should remain at around 6-8mm. Tees - Mowing height should remain at around 10-15mm. Banks - Mowing height should remain at 22-30mm Fairways - Mowing height should remain at around 15-25mm. Mow and tidy rough, semi rough grass areas - you can reduce build up of clippings by cutting little and often with a rotary or flail. Mowing height of cut during winter should be between 50-100mm, depending on type of course and the standard of play required.
  • 16.
  • 17. How can the grass on the greens at a golf course be so perfect? If you have ever really looked at the grass on a well-maintained golf green, it is absolutely amazing--it is a flawless surface made out of plants! To make it this perfect takes a lot of work. The work starts by creating what is practically a hydroponic system for growing the grass. When constructing the green, a bulldozer creates a 12- inch to 16-inch (30 to 40 cm) deep hole the size of the green. In the most advanced systems, this hole is completely lined with plastic, and then gravel, drainage pipes and sand are added. The green's grass grows in a sterile sand medium with perfect drainage! The surface is contoured to allow perfect run-off as well, so there is no puddling when it rains.
  • 18. Where you put the green is also important. It needs plenty of sunlight (preferably full sunlight with no surrounding trees) and good airflow over the green. Then you choose perfect grass. A sterile sand medium and a good location controls for a huge number of variables, but now the grass is totally dependent on its keepers for life support. That means the grass needs a steady diet of water and nutrients to keep it alive. To this mix is added a variety of herbicides (to kill weeds that try to move in), pesticides (to control insect damage) and fungicides (to control disease) to help keep the grass perfect. Once the green is established, you start in on maintenance. This includes daily mowing with a precision green mower, watering, fertilizing, applying chemicals, aerating, and general coddling. If you were willing to do all of this, you too could have a golf green in your front yard
  • 20. A dense, wear-resistant sod is essential on athletic fields and play areas to provide playing safety, good footing, and a pleasing appearance. Production and maintenance of such a turf depend on the kinds of grasses used, proper design and construction, good soil drainage, proper seedbed preparation, adequate fertility, and a maintenance program which recognizes the special nature of the care involved.
  • 21. Construction methods The construction method that is selected must be considered in relation to climate and local soils, anticipated usage levels, the quality of the pitch that is required and the budget available. This is discussed in more detail in the sections covering the various climate regions. Representative cross-sections for some of the main methods of construction are given below.
  • 23. Pipe and Slit drainage
  • 25. Soil over a drainage layer
  • 26. Establishment of Football field Seedbed preparation Seed preparation is a critical operation in constructing an athletic area. Improper seedbed preparation or preparation under adverse weather or soil moisture conditions may result in complete seeding failure. Working soils containing excessive moisture, especially with heavy equipment, will destroy the physical condition of the soil. Destruction of the soil physical condition increases soil compaction with a resultant reduction in aeration and drainage of the soil. Compaction impedes the movement of fertilizer nutrients, water, and air into the soil. The basic premise in modifying soils with sand and/or organic matter is to reduce the compatibility of the soil.
  • 27.
  • 28. Grasses and seed mixtures The species and variety of grass and the quality of the seed are important items in constructing an athletic field.  Turf should be composed of those species the are most wear resistant and at the same time capable of quickly healing injuries caused by play. Kentucky bluegrass varieties vary greatly in their genetic base and consequently show considerable variation in resistance and/or susceptibility to various turfgrass diseases, growth habit, vigor, density, color, mowing height tolerance, and nutrient requirements. Seedings of Kentucky bluegrass blends or Kentucky bluegrass and fine fescue mixtures may be supplemented with 10 to 15 percent improved turf type ryegrass is desired. When seedings are made at other than optimum times such as early to mid-summer and late fall, it is desirable to include 15 to 20 percent improved ryegrass in the mixture.
  • 29. FOOTBALL FIELD TURFGRASSES Seeded Fields need to have time to establish with 2 months to 12 months required depending on species.  Time must be allowed for fields to mature and establish when seeding cool season grasses for football use.  Aggressive fertilization programs coupled with correct irrigation are essential to maintaining a field. Practice fields for rotational purposes are an important part of the maintenance program for football fields.  Over seeding of Perennial Ryegrass can help with wear, but there is not substitute for the ability to lay a field out-of-play while it repairs.  It also needs to be done while the field is out of play for good establishment to occur.
  • 30. WARM SEASON Bermudagrass is the DOMINATE choice for Football due to Bermuda's excellent turf quality and the ability to be mowed low for faster Athletic usage speeds. Over seeding with Perennial Ryegrass in the fall is usually done to help keep wear minimal and provide for a green field color. Perennial Ryegrass should be used because it does NOT stain clothing as bad as Annual ryegrass. TRANSITIONAL Bermudagrasses are impacted by their off-color during winter dormancy and the higher risk of plant loss due to winter kill from low temperatures. Bermudagrass fields must also be over seeded each fall with Ryegrasses (during a break in schedule) to avoid playing on dormant / brown fields in the fall. Additional re-seeding of ryegrass as the season progresses is usually required. Kentucky Bluegrass is also used in the more NORTHERN parts of the transitional zone.
  • 31. COOL SEASON Here in this area Kentucky Bluegrass is the DOMINATE choice. Its aggressive growth and recuperative abilities (rhizomes). It is also considered a safer playing surface because of the cushioning effects of its thatch layer. Bluegrass is though slow to fully establish, taking generally 1 year to mature. You can generally seed in spring with use beginning in the fall. Perennial Ryegrass is often added to mixtures of Bluegrass for field use, especially for fast repair jobs.
  • 32. Maintenance of football field A good maintenance program is just as necessary to ensure athletic field turf of satisfactory quality as are sound establishment methods. The essentials of such a program are: That it is managed to produce tough grass with maximum wear resistance. That it be designed to maintain high density to resist weed invasion and encroachment of undesirable grasses. That it encourage deep rooting to provide good anchorage and firm footing. That mowing height be adjusted to both grass requirements and playing demands. That fertilizing and watering be done at such times and in such a manner as to provide steady growth with maximum quality. That considerations be given to the endurance limits of the turf in scheduling use of the field. That provision be made for repair of injuries due to wear or other causes. The following outline of maintenance operations and methods is designed to meet these requirements.
  • 33. Mowing Grass should be cut often and at a height adjusted to the predominating grass in the mixture. Kentucky bluegrass, fine fescue, improved ryegrass, or mixtures of these grasses should not be cut to a height of less than 1½ to 2 inches.  Tall fescue should not be cut to a height of less than 2 to 2½ inches. Frequency of mowing is governed by the growth rate of the grass.  Cutting should be done whenever grass grows three-quarters to 1 inch above the cutting height. No more than one-third of the total leaf surface should be removed at any mowing.  If this practice is followed, it is not necessary or desirable to change the mowing height at any time. Bermudagrass should be kept one-half inch high by frequent mowing.
  • 34. Watering Irrigate only when the grass shows signs of wilting and discoloration because of lack of water. Equipment should be adjusted to apply water only as fast as the soil will absorb it. A soil sampling probe can be used to determine the rate and depth of moisture penetration. Sprinklers should be operated until water has penetrated to a depth of at least 6 inches. Traveling types of sprinklers will provide more uniform water distribution than stationary kinds, unless the latter are checked often. Periodic aerations will speed up water penetration and usually results in more efficient water use.
  • 35. Aeration Constant trampling often causes a compact, impermeable surface layer of soil. This condition can be aggravated by mowing, rolling, or using other heavy equipment when soils are wet. Compaction cannot be avoided under such conditions, and when it develops, grass roots are injured because of insufficient moisture and air to assure normal functioning.  In addition, it becomes more difficult for water and fertilizer to penetrate the soil. Sand fields, especially when relatively new, generally require less aeration than soil fields.  However, as sand fields mature, organic matter build-up may develop in the surface 2 to 3 inches and increased aeration will be required.
  • 36.
  • 37. Lime application The lime requirement of soils should be tested every 3 or 4 years. This service is available at a minimal cost through the Agricultural Extension Service or private soil testing laboratories. Lime should be applied whenever the soil shows a pH of less than 6.2 or a lime requirement of more than 1,000 pounds of limestone per acre. Applications can be made at any time. Usually it is most effective and convenient to apply limestone in late fall following thorough aeration or during the winter on frozen turf. Ground agricultural limestone is the recommended form of lime to use. Where soil tests show a deficiency of magnesium, ground dolomitic limestone should be used. Fertilization The maintenance fertilizer program should be based on complete soil test results. Required amounts of phosphate and/or potash vary greatly with the natural soil fertility, establishment fertilization, and previous maintenance fertilization. Most athletic areas will require two complete fertilizer applications per year although some soil fields may require only one complete fertilizer application supplemented with one or more nitrogen applications.
  • 38.
  • 40.
  • 41. Typical problems on football pitches
  • 42.
  • 44. Cricket Field Cricket pitches should be prepared hard and flat to produce a good playing surface. The aim is to have a pitch that offers assistance to the batsman and the bowlers. For this to occur, we need a surface that offers pace and bounce. Slow pitches are difficult for the batsman to play shots on and offer no assistance to the bowler. To achieve a fast surface we need an even coverage of grass and then we compact the wicket through rolling. Evaporation will dry the surface of the pitch and the turf grass roots will assist in drying the pitch deeper down in the profile. This is needed to create a pitch with pace and bounce.
  • 45. Establishment of Cricket field Pitch - This is the area that the game of cricket is played on. It should be flat and hard and have the crease markings painted on. The markings will be 66 feet long by 8 feet 8 inches wide however you usually cut and roll a bigger area than this, 10 feet wide and around 78 feet long. The type of turf to use In temperate countries, ryegrass is generally the chosen grass to use on pitches. In the tropical and sub-tropical regions, however, varieties of Bermuda (Cynodon, couch, kweek) are used almost exclusively for cricket pitches. Bayview Bermuda and Skaapplaas are now widely used, having replaced the Magennis which was used in the earlier days.
  • 46. Cool season grasses These perform well in a temperate climate and the ideal temperature range is between around 15 to 22 degrees Celsius. Perennial Ryegrass Lolium perenne is a C3 grass and is the best of the cool season grasses for cricket pitches. It is quick germinating, has quite good wear tolerance, a dark green colour and is visually pleasing. On the downside it does not like to be cut too low, has poor recovery if there are bare areas as it can not creep, it has poor heat and drought tolerance, and it retains its green colour on cricket pitches. Perennial Ryegrass features It is generally purplish at the base of the stems , Leaves are shinny on the back , Leaves dull on the front with veins showing , Erect growing grass, can become clumpy
  • 47. Warm season grasses These are suited to sub-tropical climates and perform well in temperatures between 25 to 32 degrees Celsius. Couch Grass Cynodon dactylon is a C4 grass and is an excellent grass for cricket pitches as long as it is actively growing. Some added benefits of couch for pitch preparation when it is actively growing are it is a hard-wearing grass that is heat and drought tolerant. It can handle high levels of salt in the soil, be closely mown as well as withstands rolling and has good recovery due to its capacity to creep by rhizomes and stolons. On the downside of couch it goes dormant when the temperature is too low. Couch Grass features Dark green color ,Will vary slightly in color depending on variety/cultivar , Creeping habit , Has above ground runners (stolons) and below ground runners (rhizomes) , Drought tolerant.
  • 48. Grass establishment Soak the total area before planting. All hollows and sagged areas should be filled. The grass should be planted only when the surface is dry enough to walk on without having clay stick to one's shoes. The grass (Skaapplaas or Bayview) can be planted in one of two ways:(a) Grass sods are washed and torn apart to separate all the sprigs. The sprigs are then laid on the scored bulli surface and the entire sprig- covered area thoroughly wetted. A thin (10mm) layer of fine bulli is then spread carefully over the sprigs. (b) Grass plugs can be planted in hollow-tine holes with the bulli slightly moist. Plugs should be spaced about 75mm apart. The planted area should be watered at least once a day with a fine nozzle sprayer until there are signs of sprouting. Daily watering should continue until the grass has covered at least 75% of the area. A light dressing of dry bulli can then be spread over the pitch and levelled with a straight edge.
  • 49. Maintenance Roller - There are two main types of rollers. The most used are walk behind rollers that are powered by petrol driven motors. The roller may be empty, water filled, sand filled, or concrete filled. Rotary mower – Is used to pick up the debris after scarifying. Also used to cut new seeded turf when it is young, as the cylinder mower may pull the young plant out of the soil. Thatch Thatch results from the build-up of organic matter at the surface. (Interestingly, dung used to be sprayed onto pitches in England in the early days to deliberately produce lifeless pitches - no doubt spurred on by the great WG). Thatch build-up should be avoided at all costs. Whether it lies on the surface or within the profile, it acts to cushion the impact of the ball and will slow the pace of the pitch (although it will increase the bounce of moderate to slow paced pitches).
  • 50. Mowing Not more than 30 to 40% of the leaf material should ever be removed at a single mowing. More intense mowing than this would severely retard the development of the root system and cause some of the roots to die - further adding organic matter to the pitch. Therefore, it is often recommended that the cutting height be gradually reduced during preparation. This also means that a greater amount of leaf will remain on the pitch during the preparation period, allowing the grass to more effectively dry out the sub-surface soil.
  • 51. Irrigation Irrigation is best done by using sprinklers which give a fine mist spray. Large droplets are likely to cause 'potholes' on the pitch. Avoid pools of water lying on the pitch surface. Water penetrates bulli very slowly. After irrigation, grass cuttings often collect at certain points on the surface. These cuttings must be brushed off the pitch. A hessian or bidum cover on the pitch in hot, dry, windy weather ensures good moisture retention by the pitch.
  • 52. Drainage Most drainage problems in cricket pitches result from water penetrating under the table from the surrounding areas since water infiltrates only slowly into the bulli itself. In most situations a gravel bed under the whole table is not considered essential, but the square must be surrounded by a ring drain. This should be close enough to the surface to allow a fork to be used to get rid of surface water. The ring-drain should lead into a sump connected to a drain which will lead the water from the field. Where waterlogging is a potential problem, a firm foundation should be produced from angular 6 - 10 mm diameter gravel. Bulli/sand mixtures can be used to ease the transition from the gravel to the pure bulli.
  • 53. FERTILISING Phosphorus, potash, calcium, magnesium and sulphur should be applied according to soil test (note that there should always be less magnesium than calcium in the bulli and that superphosphate should be not be applied too liberally because the sulphur it contains will promote crumbling). In pitch maintenance Apart from the fact that the turf cover on cricket pitches is expected to survive the harsh treatment of constant close cutting with a mower, and the bruising effects of rolling, the natural ability of the grass to grow is still further hindered by the long periods that the pitch is dried out. Pitch soil, being black in colour, absorbs heat and becomes so hot that new growth of grass tends to be scorched. In addition, there is the pounding effect of the cricket ball and the effect of sharp studs now in common use on boots. It is indeed remarkable that the grass cover of a turf pitch can possibly survive such rough treatment, and it is not surprising that, from time to time, bare patches tend to develop, apart from those areas which are torn up by footmarks of the players.
  • 54.
  • 56. Tennis Court A tennis court is the venue where the sport of tennis is played. It is a firm rectangular surface with a low net stretched across the centre. The same surface can be used to play both doubles and singles matches. A variety of surfaces can be used to create a tennis court, each with its own characteristics which affect the playing style of the game.
  • 57.
  • 58. Porous Grass Courts - Grass courts generally require professional maintenance because they must be maintained on a daily basis much like golf greens. Special drainage and sand construction is often used. For tournament play, the International Tennis Federation (ITF) and Lawn Tennis Association (LTA) advise that a single court should ideally be 36.57m x 18.29m, which includes run-offs of 6.40m at each end and 3.66 on either side. The minimum club court size is 34.75m x 17.07m, however, areas such as public parks may be permitted even further reductions. Orientation is also crucial. As the sun rises in the East and sets in the West, it is preferable to always have courts running from North to South to avoid the sun causing disruption to play.
  • 59. RECOMMENDED GRASSES WARM SEASON Bermudagrass is best choice. – Over seed in winter. High quality hybrid vegetative varieties such as tifway, etc. are best choice. There are some courts using Princess 77 or other improved seeded varieties. Mowing is generally required on a daily basis to maintain low heights needed for good ball play. TRANSITIONAL Creeping Bent grasses or Bermudagrass is best choice with over seeding of Bermuda with Perennial ryegrass in fall. COOL SEASON Creeping Bent grasses are best choices. Penncross is best variety for a home-owner type court. Maintenance issues can run high.
  • 60. ARTIFICIAL TURF GRASS Attitude Artificial turf is a surface of synthetic fibers made to look like natural grass. It is most often used in arenas for sports that were originally or are normally played on grass. However, it is now being used on residential lawns and commercial applications as well. The main reason is maintenance: artificial turf stands up to heavy use, such as in sports, and requires no irrigation or trimming. Domed, covered, and partially covered stadiums may require artificial turf because of the difficulty of getting grass enough sunlight to stay healthy. But artificial turf does have its downside: limited life, periodic cleaning requirements, petroleum use, toxic chemicals from infill, and heightened health and safety concerns. •Tennis synthetic grass is highly optimized for tennis play and player comfort. It provides a very even and non-directional playing surface. •The dense pile is sand filled, with the sand worked into the pile the surface is flat and flexible. The play takes place on the tennis turf pile itself, which allows optimal pivoting and turning and with some resilience combines to make play more comfortable and the chance of playing an extra set an attractive prospect. •In short, our tennis turf will provide a safe and high-performance surface.
  • 61. Pros of the Artificial Grass Surface for Tennis Court •Low maintenance costs •Hard-wearing surface •High weather-resistance •Player-friendliness •Relatively low construction cost compared to other surfaces
  • 62. We ensure grass courts are built to Lawn Tennis Association (LTA) and Sport England specifications. 1) EXCAVATION FOR COURT FORMATION Subsoil is excavated for the court formation and the surface laser-levelled. An uneven underlying formation leads to mismatched depths within the first loam layer, affecting performance and play. 2) DRAINAGE, IRRIGATION AND GRAVEL CARPET Drainage is an essential aspect of any new grass tennis court. Effective drainage ensures consistent moisture levels across the court. 3) LEVEL, CONSOLIDATE AND KEY Each layer of loam is laser-levelled. Thorough consolidation removes air pockets and ensures there’s a good bond between each layer of loam. As part of our expert service we specify tennis loam with low clay content, essential for a deep- rooted, high-performance sward that recovers quickly from wear. 4) PREPARE FINAL SURFACE AND SEED The final tilth is prepared, fertiliser applied, and grass seed sown.
  • 63. Maintenance Mowing The Centre Court is pampered with three mows a week, upped to daily mowing as the Championship nears. Daily cuttings may be excessive for your local tennis court, but we would recommend mowing about three times a week towards the busy tennis period. Keeping with Wimbledon’s guidelines, tennis court grass should be cut to 15mm and maintained throughout the winter. When the tennis season begins, the ideal playing height of grass is 8mm. Nourishment Alongside regular mowing, you should keep the grass strong with extra nutrients. These nutrients will fortify the grass to withstand the extra people using the courts during the summer months. For those local tennis clubs without the permanent Wimbledon ground staff, summer lawn feed is easy to apply to the whole court while providing an even coverage. Another ideal product is our ‘Cold Pressed’ Liquid Seaweed, which encourages healthy grass that is more drought and frost resistant. This is essential for grass that needs to be kept short, and therefore more susceptible to the weather. When choosing lawn feed, the season should be considered to provide the best tailored care for the weather conditions. High quality lawn feed also contains magnesium which produces chlorophyll to give your tennis grass its rich green colour in the warmer months.
  • 64. In addition to the above regular maintenance the below seasonal maintenance is also required for a grass court in play all year: Scarification mechanically raises the surface to prevent compaction. This should be completed annually once the soil temperature increases Rolling which is usually completed in the springtime to rectify and problems from the winter months Completed during the winter months aeration is required to assist with drainage along with deep rooting The worn areas need to be seeded to encourage new growth To maintain turf quality top dressing is required Maintenance of the foundations; drainage, soil and the grass.
  • 65. Artificial Grass Tennis Court Color Options • Red / Summer-Green • Red / Green • Green / Summer-Green • Green / Green • Summer-Green / Summer-Green • Blue / Green
  • 66.
  • 67. References • https://www.slideshare.net/VijaykumarBNarayanpur/lawn-55263348 • https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Golf_course • https://golfsupport.com/blog/main-types-grass-golf/ • https://www.football-stadiums.co.uk/articles/football-pitch-grass-types/ • https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Artificial_turf • http://vicsportsturf.asn.au/wp- content/uploads/2016/01/VCAWicketPrep20101.pdf • https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tennis_court • http://evergreentenniscourts.com/Pages/SyntheticTurfTennisCourts • https://sportslabs.files.wordpress.com/2013/11/guide-to-natural-grass- pitches_e.pdf • https://www.dennisuk.com/football-pitch-maintenance-tips/ • https://science.howstuffworks.com/life/botany/question428.htm • https://www.tenniskit24.com/guides/tennis-court-construction/