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What	
  do	
  you	
  believe	
  are	
  the	
  greatest	
  challenges	
  facing	
  the	
  sector	
  or	
  industry	
  you	
  would	
  like	
  to	
  
specialize	
  in	
  at	
  IE?
What role do	
  youhopetobe able toplayin	
  thesector or industryin	
  the medium	
  term?
LUCA	
  ORDUÑA
Brand	
  
Management	
  
At	
  IE	
  Business	
  school,	
  I	
  would	
  like	
  to	
  specialize	
  on	
  Brand	
  
Management	
  with	
  a	
  focus	
  on	
  the	
  luxury	
  industry	
  in	
  Asia.	
  I	
  
believe	
  the	
  Swiss	
  watch	
  industry	
  to	
  be	
  a	
  very	
  good	
  example	
  as	
  
virtually	
  no	
  other	
  sector	
  is	
  so	
  focused	
  on	
  exports	
  and	
  reliant	
  
on	
  achieving	
  success	
  in	
  an	
  international	
  environment.
Furthermore,	
  I	
  am	
  personally	
  involved	
  in	
  the	
  watch	
  business.	
  
Over	
  the	
  last	
  two	
  years	
  I	
  was	
  involved	
  in	
  setting	
  up	
  a	
  
distribution	
  company	
  for	
  timepieces	
  over	
  Asia,	
  with	
  currently	
  
subsidiaries	
  in	
  Japan,	
  HongKong and	
  Taiwan.	
  In	
  those	
  
territories	
  we	
  support	
  watch	
  brands	
  entering	
  the	
  market	
  and	
  
help	
  establishing	
  the	
  brand.	
  I	
  hope	
  that	
  in	
  the	
  future	
  the	
  
company	
  can	
  become	
  an	
  important	
  player	
  in	
  the	
  region	
  and	
  
further	
  expand	
  to	
  other	
  Asian	
  regions	
  like	
  Mainland	
  China,	
  
South	
  Korea,	
  India	
  etc.	
  In	
  the	
  long	
  run	
  I	
  would	
  like	
  to	
  become	
  
an	
  expert	
  for	
  consumer	
  goods	
  especially	
  for	
  luxury	
  and	
  lifestyle	
  
products	
  across	
  Asia	
  pacific	
  with	
  an	
  understanding	
  of	
  how	
  to	
  
build	
  a	
  brand,	
  using	
  the	
  right	
  channels	
  and	
  offering	
  services	
  
and	
  consulting.
Luxury	
  Industry
Swiss	
  Watch	
  Industry
Asia	
  
The	
  Swiss	
  Watch	
  Industry:	
  Brand	
  management	
  with	
  a	
  
focus	
  on	
  Asia
1.	
  The	
  Swiss	
  Watch	
  Industry	
  2.	
  Challenges	
  	
  3.	
  My	
  Future	
  Role	
  4.	
  Endnotes
KEY	
  FACTS:	
  Switzerland	
  with	
  quasi-­‐monopoly	
  in	
  high-­‐end	
  watches	
  
• Switzerland	
   produces	
  only	
  	
  around	
  2.5%	
  of	
  the	
  global	
  production	
  of	
  
watches	
  (units)	
  but	
  it	
  is	
  by	
  far	
  the	
  leading	
  exporter	
  of	
  watches	
  in	
  value	
  
terms.	
  
• Switzerland	
   has	
  a	
  near	
  monopoly	
  situation	
  in	
  the	
  luxury	
  watch	
  
segment	
  (mechanical	
   watches).	
  
• 95%	
  of	
  the	
  watches	
  produced	
  in	
  Switzerland	
  are	
  exported.
• Pronounced	
  almost	
  dead	
  in	
  1970	
  and	
  threatened	
  by	
  the	
  Quartz	
  
watches	
  from	
  Japan,	
  the	
  Swiss	
  watch	
  industry	
  made	
  an	
  impressive	
  
rebound	
  thanks	
  to	
  a	
  refocus	
  on	
  high-­‐end	
  watches	
  and	
  a	
  global	
  boom	
  
for	
  luxury	
  goods.
• A	
  handful	
  major	
  conglomerates	
   dominate	
  the	
  watch	
  industry	
  :	
  Swatch	
  
Group	
  (brands	
  include	
  Swatch,	
  Omega,	
  Harry	
  Winston,	
  and	
  Tissot),	
  
Richemont (Montblanc,	
  Piaget,	
  Cartier),	
   LVMH	
  (Tag	
  Heuer,	
  Hublot,	
  
Zenith)	
  and	
  Rolex	
  (Rolex	
  and	
  Tudor).
• The	
  “Swiss	
  Made”	
  label,	
  the	
  key	
  reference	
   in	
  the	
  watch	
  industry,	
  can	
  
only	
  be	
  obtained	
  if	
  the	
  watch	
  is	
  assembled	
  and	
  inspected	
  in	
  
Switzerland,	
  with	
  at	
  least	
  60%	
  of	
  the	
  parts	
  produced	
  in	
  Switzerland.	
  
1.	
  The	
  Swiss	
  Watch	
  Industry	
  2.	
  Challenges	
  	
  3.	
  My	
  Future	
  Role	
  4.	
  Endnotes
KEY	
  FACTS:	
  Asia	
  is	
  the	
  most	
  important	
  region
Exports	
  of	
  Swiss	
  wristwatches	
  reached	
   a	
  new	
  record	
  in	
  2014	
  of	
  CHF	
  21	
  billion	
  
CHF,	
  making	
  Switzerland	
  the	
  country	
  with	
  the	
  highest	
  export	
  value	
  of	
  watches.	
  
From	
  2000	
  to	
  2014	
  the	
  Swiss	
  watch	
  industry	
  grew	
  by	
  38%.	
  Looking	
  at	
  the	
  
numbers	
  over	
  25	
  years,	
  the	
  growth	
  is	
  even	
  more	
  impressive:	
  Watch	
  sale	
  more	
  
than	
  quadrupled.	
  Despite	
  this	
  impressive	
  growth,	
  the	
  quantity	
  (Number	
  of	
  
watches)	
  exported	
  is	
  smaller	
  than	
  it	
  was	
  in	
  1988.	
  This	
  can	
  only	
  mean	
  one	
  thing:	
  
The	
  average	
  export	
  price	
  must	
  have	
  increased	
  significantly.	
   In	
  2000	
  the	
  average	
  
price	
  was	
  310	
  CHF	
  compared	
  to	
  730	
  CHF	
  in	
  2014.
With	
  11.8	
  billion	
  CHF	
  (2014),	
  Asia	
  is	
  responsible	
  for	
  over	
  50%	
  of	
  all	
  Swiss	
  watch	
  
exports.	
  Hong	
  Kong	
  is	
  by	
  far	
  the	
  most	
  important	
  market	
  with	
  a	
  share	
  of	
  18.5%	
  
at	
  the	
  end	
  of	
  2014,	
  followed	
   by	
  USA	
  (10.7%)	
  and	
  further	
  two	
  Asian	
  countries	
  
China	
  (6.3%)	
  and	
  Japan	
  (6.0%).	
  
Over	
  the	
  last	
  years,	
  Asia	
  was	
  as	
  the	
  main	
  driver	
  for	
  growth	
  in	
  the	
  Swiss	
  watch	
  
industry.	
  In	
  overall	
  terms,	
  Asian	
  countries	
  were	
  responsible	
  for	
  around	
  70%	
  of	
  
the	
  growth	
  in	
  exports	
  in	
  the	
  2000-­‐2012	
  period.	
  	
  The	
  growth	
  came	
  mainly	
  from	
  
Hong	
  Kong	
  and	
  China,	
  which	
  together	
  generated	
  more	
  than	
  40%	
  of	
  the	
  growth.	
  
Singapore,	
  the	
  United	
  Arab	
  Emirates	
  (UAE),	
  South	
  Korea,	
  Taiwan,	
  Saudi	
  Arabia,	
  
and	
  Japan	
  are	
  also	
  among	
  the	
  15	
  countries	
  that	
  provided	
  the	
  biggest	
  
contributions	
  to	
  growth.
1.	
  The	
  Swiss	
  Watch	
  Industry	
  2.	
  Challenges	
  	
  3.	
  My	
  Future	
  Role	
  4.	
  Endnotes
1.	
  The	
  Swiss	
  Watch	
  Industry	
  2.	
  Challenges	
  	
  3.	
  My	
  Future	
  Role	
  4.	
  Endnotes
CHALLENGES	
  IN	
  SWITZERLAND
Swiss	
  Made	
  Label
Supplier	
  Situation
Investment	
  in	
  facilities
Currency	
  	
  (CHF)
CHALLENGES	
  IN	
  (ASIAN)	
  MARKETS
Lower	
  growth	
  in	
  main	
  export	
  countries
Importance	
  of	
  travelers	
  and	
  less	
  regionalism	
  
Costly	
  set	
  up	
  of	
  distribution	
  system
Negotiation	
  power	
  of	
  main	
  players
Expensive	
  advertisement	
  costs
Importance	
  of	
  Digital	
  Media
Change	
  in	
  consumer	
  behavior	
  because	
  of	
  new	
  
product	
  categories	
  (smart	
  watches)
CHALLENGES	
  OVERVIEW
1.	
  The	
  Swiss	
  Watch	
  Industry	
  2.	
  Challenges	
  	
  3.	
  My	
  Future	
  Role	
  4.	
  Endnotes
STRUCTURAL	
  CHALLENGES	
  IN	
  SWITZERLAND
In	
  Switzerland	
  itself,	
  the	
  companies	
   are	
  facing	
  several	
  structural	
  challenges	
  which	
  combined	
  
are	
  resulting	
  in	
  an	
  upward	
  pressure	
   on	
  the	
  prices.	
  	
  
One	
  reason	
  for	
  the	
  upward	
  pressure	
  is	
  the	
  movement	
  production.	
   The	
  mechanical	
  
movement	
  is	
  the	
  heart	
  of	
  any	
  watch.	
  Up	
  until	
  recently,	
  most	
  of	
  the	
  brands	
  bought	
  their	
  
movements	
   from	
  ETA,	
  a	
  company	
  owned	
  by	
  the	
  Swatch	
  Group.	
  This	
  made	
  the	
  Swiss	
  watch	
  
companies	
   highly	
  dependent	
   on	
  the	
  Swatch	
  Group.	
  Swatch	
  Group	
  made	
  the	
  decision	
   to	
  limit	
  
the	
  deliveries	
  of	
  their	
  ETA	
  movements	
   to	
  competitors.	
  Therefore	
  the	
  brands	
  with	
  limited	
  or	
  
without	
  own	
  movement	
  production	
   will	
  need	
  to	
  either	
  negotiate	
  independent	
   deals	
  with	
  
the	
  Swatch	
  group	
  or	
  invest	
  in	
  creating	
  their	
  own	
  movement.	
  
The	
  big	
  customers	
  like	
  Richemont and	
  LVMH,	
  as	
  they	
  are	
  able	
  to	
  buy	
  in	
  a	
  bigger	
  quantity	
  
than	
  independent	
   brands,	
   will	
  probably	
  still	
  be	
  delivered	
  by	
  Swatch	
  Group	
  with	
  ETA	
  
movements.	
   Still	
  brands	
  have	
  to	
  more	
  and	
  more	
  look	
  for	
  alternatives.	
  This	
  is	
  why	
  brands	
  all	
  
over	
  Switzerland	
  need	
  to	
  invest	
  more	
  and	
  more	
  into	
  the	
  construction	
   of	
  new	
  production	
  
facilities.	
  It	
  is	
  a	
  big	
  challenge	
  to	
  produce	
   at	
  the	
  same	
  quality	
  and	
  price	
  like	
  ETA	
  as	
  they	
  have	
  a	
  
critical	
  mass	
  and	
  benefiting	
  from	
  experience,	
  facilities	
  and	
  economies	
   of	
  scales.	
  For	
  other	
  
brands,	
  the	
  investment	
  in	
  production	
   facilities,	
  Know-­‐how	
   of	
  movement	
  production	
   and	
  less	
  
quantity	
  will	
  increase	
  the	
  prices	
  of	
  the	
  movements.	
  
1.	
  The	
  Swiss	
  Watch	
  Industry	
  2.	
  Challenges	
  	
  3.	
  My	
  Future	
  Role	
  4.	
  Endnotes
STRUCTURAL	
  CHALLENGES	
  IN	
  SWITZERLAND
The	
  “Swiss	
  Made”	
  Label	
  is	
  extremely	
  valuable	
  in	
  the	
  watch	
  industry	
  and	
  is	
  used	
  by	
  the	
  brand	
  as	
  marketing	
  and	
  quality	
  label.	
  	
  It	
  
allows	
  to	
  sell	
  the	
  watches	
  at	
  a	
  certain	
  premium.	
  The	
  parliament	
   passed	
  in	
  2013	
  a	
  “Swissness”	
  amendment	
  with	
  stricter	
  criteria	
  
governing	
  the	
  use	
  of	
  the	
  Swiss	
  Made	
  label,	
  stating	
  that	
  at	
  least	
  60%	
  of	
  the	
  production	
  costs	
  must	
  be	
  attributable	
  to	
  operations	
  in	
  
Switzerland	
  and	
  that	
  the	
  watch	
  must	
  be	
  developed,	
  assembled	
  and	
  inspected	
  in	
  Switzerland.	
  
This	
  leads	
  to	
  greater	
  demand	
  of	
  Swiss	
  watch	
  components	
  and	
  combined	
  with	
  the	
  limited	
  supply	
  from	
  Swatch	
  Group	
  (previous	
  
slide)	
  further	
  intensifies	
   the	
  need	
  for	
  brands	
  towards	
  vertical	
  integration	
  and	
  to	
  invest	
  in	
  production	
  capacities.	
  
Another	
  challenge	
   is	
  the	
  Swiss	
  Franc’s	
  exchange	
  rate.	
  Since	
  the	
  Swiss	
  National	
  Bank	
  in	
  January	
  gave	
  up	
  efforts	
  to	
  cap	
  the	
  franc’s	
  
value	
  against	
  the	
  euro,	
  the	
  Swiss	
  currency	
  has	
  strengthened	
  by	
  more	
  than	
  10	
  per	
  cent.	
  Furthermore,	
  the	
  decline	
   of	
  the	
  euro,	
  
ruble,	
  yen	
  and	
  renminbi and	
  the	
  rise	
  of	
  the	
  dollar	
  have	
  also	
  contributed	
  to	
  watchmakers’	
  headaches.
The	
  limited	
  supply	
  by	
  the	
  Swatch	
  group,	
  the	
  increased	
  demand	
  of	
  Swiss	
  made	
  parts	
  through	
  the	
  Swissness initiative,	
  not	
  having	
  
the	
  possibility	
  to	
  shift	
  production	
  abroad	
  and	
  therefore	
  be	
  more	
  exposed	
  to	
  the	
  exchange	
  rate	
  which	
  developed	
  adversely	
  for	
  
the	
  brands,	
  are	
  testing	
  the	
  pricing	
   power	
  of	
  Swiss	
  Watchmakers.	
   This	
  can	
  have	
  an	
  adverse	
  impact	
  on	
  the	
  competitiveness	
  
especially	
   for	
  the	
  smaller	
  and	
  mid-­‐sized	
  companies	
  in	
  the	
  lower	
  and	
  medium	
  price	
  range.	
  Brands	
  had	
  to	
  increase	
  and	
  
renegotiate	
  prices,	
  which	
  is	
  still	
  easier	
   in	
  the	
  high-­‐end	
  watchmaking.	
  Nonetheless,	
  not	
  all	
  brands	
  can	
  adopt	
  price	
  increases	
   the	
  
same	
  way,	
  especially	
   in	
  the	
  lower-­‐prices	
   market	
  segments	
  .
1.	
  The	
  Swiss	
  Watch	
  Industry	
  2.	
  Challenges	
  	
  3.	
  My	
  Future	
  Role	
  4.	
  Endnotes
ASIA:	
  LOWER	
  GROWTH	
  IN	
  MAIN	
  MARKETS
Even	
  though	
  the	
  Swiss	
  watch	
  industry	
  is	
  very	
  diversified,	
   the	
  growing	
  significance	
   of	
  
the	
  Chinese	
  market	
  poses	
  a	
  degree	
  of	
  cluster	
  risk	
  for	
  the	
  industry.	
  Thanks	
  to	
  a	
  growth	
  
jump,	
  mainland	
  China	
  moved	
  up	
  to	
  third	
  place	
  and	
  accounted	
  for	
  8%	
  of	
  Swiss	
  watch	
  
exports	
  in	
  2012.	
  If	
  Hong	
  Kong,	
  Macao,	
  and	
  Taiwan	
  are	
  also	
  included,	
  by	
  the	
  end	
  of	
  
2012,	
  30%	
  of	
  the	
  watch	
  exports	
  went	
  to	
  the	
  Chinese	
  Market.	
  It	
  is	
  not	
  ultimately	
  
surprising	
  that	
  those	
  growth	
  rates	
  could	
  not	
  continue	
  in	
  the	
  same	
  way,	
  but,	
  as	
  
indicated	
  by	
  the	
  graph,	
  since	
  2012	
  the	
  sales	
  is	
  declining.	
  
This	
  declining	
   intensified	
   in	
  2015	
  and	
  for	
  example	
  in	
  July	
  2015,	
  all	
  the	
  eight	
  leading	
  
markets	
  were	
  down,	
  often	
  steeply.	
  
The	
  pessimism	
  about	
  China	
  and	
  Hong	
  Kong	
  can	
  be	
  explained	
   by	
  the	
  lower	
  rates	
  of	
  
growth	
  in	
  the	
  economies	
  of	
  many	
  emerging	
   markets,	
  the	
  devaluation	
  of	
  Yuan	
  and	
  
also	
  the	
  anti-­‐corruption	
  and	
  anti-­‐kickback	
  legislation	
   in	
  China	
  (crackdown	
  on	
  
exorbitant	
  spending	
  of	
  party	
  official)
The	
  picture	
  for	
  Hong	
  Kong	
  is	
  even	
  worse,	
  as	
  currently	
  a	
  lot	
  of	
  challenges	
   are	
  
occurring.	
  There	
  is	
  the	
  effect	
  of	
  the	
  strong	
  Swiss	
  Franc,	
  falling	
   tourism	
  from	
  China	
  to	
  
Hong	
  Kong	
  (also	
  due	
  to	
  less	
  stringent	
  conditions	
  for	
  Chinese	
  people	
  to	
  get	
  travel	
  visas	
  
to	
  other	
  destinations)	
  and	
  the	
  effects	
  of	
  the	
  Umbrella	
  Revolution.	
  This	
  decline	
  has	
  
started	
  to	
  create	
  a	
  build-­‐up	
  in	
  inventory	
  and	
  inventories	
  have	
  reached	
  a	
  6-­‐10	
  months	
  
of	
  sales	
  of	
  some	
  brands.	
  	
  
1.	
  The	
  Swiss	
  Watch	
  Industry	
  2.	
  Challenges	
  	
  3.	
  My	
  Future	
  Role	
  4.	
  Endnotes
ASIA:	
  CHINESE	
  TOURISTS
Besides	
   the	
  sales	
  in	
  China,	
   one	
  of	
  the	
  most	
  important	
  customer	
  group	
  are	
  and	
  
continue	
  to	
  be	
  the	
  Chinese	
   travelers.	
  The	
  high	
  sales	
  tax	
  is	
  reducing	
  the	
  domestic	
  
purchasing	
   and	
  the	
  Chinese	
   customers	
   take	
  advantage	
  of	
  buying	
  the	
  Swiss	
  
watches	
  abroad	
  at	
  a	
  lower	
  price.	
  Studies	
   say	
  that	
  in	
  2012	
  37%	
  of	
  the	
  Chinese	
  
travelers	
  bought	
  a	
  watch	
  during	
  their	
  trip.	
  For	
  a	
  long	
  time,	
  around	
  half	
  of	
  the	
  
watches	
  were	
  bought	
  in	
  Taiwan,	
  Macao	
  or	
  Hong	
  Kong.	
  In	
  Europe,	
  the	
  most	
  sales	
  
occurred	
  	
  in	
  Paris.	
  	
  Because	
  of	
  political	
  developments	
   and	
  less	
  stringent	
  rules	
  for	
  
visa	
  for	
  the	
  Chinese,	
   a	
  lot	
  of	
  new	
  destination	
  came	
  into	
  focus	
  of	
  shoppers.	
  
Therefore	
  it	
  is	
  crucial	
  for	
  the	
  major	
  brands	
  to	
  have	
  presence	
  where	
  the	
  Chinese	
  
customers	
  are	
  traveling	
  to.	
  The	
  head	
  of	
  the	
  LVMH	
  watch	
  division,	
   Jean-­‐Claude	
  
Biver,	
  for	
  example	
  said:	
  “We	
  will	
  follow	
  the	
  Chinese	
   customer	
  wherever	
  he	
  goes	
  
and	
  offer	
  them	
  the	
  possibility	
   to	
  buy	
  our	
  watches”
From	
  2013	
  to	
  2014,	
  Sales	
  of	
  watches	
  to	
  Chinese	
   in	
  South	
   Korea	
  for	
  example	
  rose	
  
significantly	
   but	
  dropped	
  even	
  more	
  after	
  the	
  virus	
  MERS	
  broke	
  out.	
  That	
  
followed	
  a	
  significant	
  increase	
  in	
  Sales	
  in	
  Japan	
  because	
  the	
  Yen	
  is	
  at	
  lowest	
  level	
  
in	
  real	
  terms	
  since	
  early	
  1970	
  and	
  has	
  depreciated	
  almost	
  50%	
  against	
  the	
  
renminbi.	
   This	
  shows	
  the	
  challenge	
  of	
  the	
  watch	
  industry	
   as	
  it	
  is	
  necessary	
  to	
  
have	
  the	
  desired	
  products	
   available	
  at	
  the	
  right	
  time	
  at	
  the	
  right	
  place.	
  
Furthermore	
   the	
  Chinese	
   market	
  has	
  to	
  carefully	
  taken	
  care	
  off,	
  so	
  that	
  the	
  
Chinese	
   buy	
  the	
  specific	
   brand	
  while	
  traveling.	
  The	
  internet	
  and	
  the	
  flow	
  of	
  
tourist	
  have	
  removed	
  regionalism	
  and	
  brands	
  have	
  to	
  think	
  and	
  act	
  globally	
  in	
  
every	
  kind	
  of	
  aspect	
  like	
  product	
  planning,	
   availability	
  of	
  product	
  and	
  marketing.	
  
1.	
  The	
  Swiss	
  Watch	
  Industry	
  2.	
  Challenges	
  	
  3.	
  My	
  Future	
  Role	
  4.	
  Endnotes
CONTROLING	
  DISTRIBUTION	
  CHANNELS
As	
  already	
  mentioned	
  on	
  the	
  last	
  slide,	
  optimization	
  of	
  sales	
  channels	
  is	
  one	
  of	
  the	
  important	
  strategic	
  point	
  of	
  the	
  
watch	
  brands.	
   Well	
  established,	
  financially	
  solid	
  brands	
  have	
  to	
  decide	
  to	
  what	
  extend	
  and	
  in	
  which	
  markets	
  they	
  want	
  
to	
  handle	
  and	
  control	
  the	
  distribution	
  by	
  themselves.	
  Smaller	
  brand	
  face	
  the	
  challenge	
  that	
  vertical	
  integration	
  is	
  very	
  
costly	
  and	
  often	
  not	
  a	
  strategic	
  option.	
  Therefore	
  they	
  must	
  evaluate	
  the	
  most	
  efficient	
  method	
  of	
  gaining	
  access	
  to	
  
markets.	
  
In	
  the	
  past,	
  almost	
  all	
  luxury	
  watches	
  were	
  sold	
  via	
  specialist	
  retailers	
  and	
  regional	
  retail	
  groups.	
  Through	
  the	
  market	
  
consolidation	
  and	
  the	
  increasing	
  strength	
  of	
  larger	
  groups,	
  the	
  groups	
  have	
  an	
  increased	
  influence	
  on	
  the	
  specialist	
  
dealer	
  and	
  it	
  gets	
  challenging	
  for	
  smaller	
  and	
  medium	
  brands	
  to	
  obtain	
  shelf	
  space.	
  Less	
  known	
  brands	
  represent	
  as	
  well	
  
a	
  certain	
  financial	
  risk	
  for	
  the	
  distributor	
  and	
  the	
  retailer.	
  This	
  makes	
  it	
  difficult	
  for	
  smaller	
  and	
  independent	
  brands	
  to	
  
get	
  into	
  a	
  retail	
  store	
  and	
  if	
  space	
  is	
  offered,	
  the	
  watches	
  are	
  mostly	
  only	
  on	
  consignment.	
  Therefore	
  the	
  establishment	
  
of	
  a	
  global	
  presence	
  for	
  brands	
  is	
  costly	
  and	
  needs	
  a	
  lot	
  of	
  experience	
  in	
  the	
  different	
  markets.	
  The	
  high	
  costs	
  of	
  
managing	
  and	
  the	
  difficulty	
  of	
  finding	
  a	
  distributor	
  for	
  the	
  brands	
  made	
  them	
  often	
  try	
  to	
  directly	
  contact	
  retailers	
  or	
  sell
the	
  brand	
  over	
  internet.	
  This	
  leaded	
  to	
  a	
  confusing	
  situation	
  in	
  some	
  markets	
  where	
  the	
  purchasing	
  experience	
  is	
  
unclear	
  or	
  not	
  available	
  to	
  many	
  customers.	
  Often	
  potential	
  customers	
  don’t	
  know	
  where	
  and	
  when	
  certain	
  products	
  
are	
  available.	
  
Well	
  established	
  Brands	
  from	
  the	
  big	
  groups	
  try	
  to	
  control	
  the	
  distribution	
  by	
  establishing	
  monobrand boutiques	
  and	
  
M&A	
  in	
  vertical	
  direction	
  by	
  acquiring	
  suppliers	
  and	
  retailers.	
  This	
  allows	
  the	
  brands	
  to	
  control	
  the	
  environment	
  and	
  
sales	
  process	
  (trainees	
  staff	
  to	
  transmit	
  brand	
  values,	
  control	
  discounts/grey	
  market,	
  control	
  collection).	
  Furthermore	
  it	
  
is	
  easier	
  for	
  the	
  brands	
  to	
  better	
  supply	
  the	
  actual	
  needs	
  at	
  distribution	
  points and	
  react	
  to	
  changes.	
  
1.	
  The	
  Swiss	
  Watch	
  Industry	
  2.	
  Challenges	
  	
  3.	
  My	
  Future	
  Role	
  4.	
  Endnotes
HIGH	
  ADVERTISMENT	
  COSTS	
  and	
  DIGITAL	
  MANAGEMENT
It	
  gets	
  more	
  and	
  more	
  important	
  to	
  spend	
  a	
  significant	
  amount	
  on	
  marketing	
  efforts.	
  The	
  major	
  brands	
  invest	
  
a	
  lot	
  on	
  sponsoring	
  selected	
  events	
  to	
  strengthen	
  their	
  brand	
  image	
  and	
  position.	
  Sports	
  plays	
  an	
  important	
  
role	
  in	
  the	
  marketing	
  mix	
  and	
  brands	
  sponsor	
  marathons,	
  selected	
  tournaments	
  (golf,	
  tennis)	
  and	
  	
  teams	
  
(soccer,	
  F1	
  racing,	
  sailing).	
  Furthermore	
  brand	
  ambassadors	
  like	
  tennis	
  players	
  (Roger	
  Federer,	
  Stanislav	
  
Wawrinka)	
  are	
  an	
  integral	
  part	
  of	
  the	
  marketing.	
  Last	
  but	
  not	
  least	
  product	
  placement	
  in	
  movies	
  is	
  gaining	
  in	
  
importance	
  due	
  to	
  the	
  recent	
  blockbusters	
  (007).	
  
Those	
  strategies	
  are	
  more	
  often	
  used	
  by	
  large	
  brands	
  that	
  can	
  afford	
  them.	
  Small	
  independent	
  brands,	
  which	
  
usually	
  have	
  limited	
  marketing	
  budgets,	
  focus	
  more	
  on	
  social	
  media	
  and	
  the	
  internet,	
  as	
  these	
  offer	
  a	
  better	
  
opportunity	
  to	
  reach	
  a	
  global	
  audience	
  and	
  engage	
  with	
  target	
  customers	
  at	
  a	
  lower	
  cost.
Online	
  marketing	
  campaigns,	
  homepage,	
  social	
  Media	
  and	
  Blogs	
  play	
  more	
  and	
  more	
  a	
  role	
  during	
  the	
  buying	
  
decision.	
  Brands	
  need	
  to	
  permanently	
  monitor	
  the	
  online	
  activities	
  and	
  it	
  gets	
  necessary	
  to	
  install	
  teams	
  which	
  
support	
  those	
  efforts.	
  
An	
  increasing	
  number	
  of	
  watch	
  brands	
  are	
  experimenting	
  with	
  the	
  possibility	
  of	
  online	
  sales	
  channels.	
  A	
  
challenge	
  is	
  to	
  balance	
  exclusivity	
  and	
  ubiquity,	
  mass	
  and	
  class.	
  The	
  goal	
  is	
  to	
  make	
  everyone	
  as	
  aware	
  as	
  
possible	
  of	
  the	
  brands	
  promise	
  but	
  keep	
  the	
  achievements	
  of	
  the	
  brands	
  exclusive.	
  A	
  big	
  obstacle	
  of	
  online	
  
sales	
  are	
  the	
  counterfeits.	
  Furthermore,	
  through	
  the	
  high	
  growth	
  rates	
  over	
  the	
  last	
  year,	
  during	
  a	
  slowdown	
  of	
  
the	
  economy,	
  a	
  lot	
  of	
  second	
  hand	
  watches	
  could	
  become	
  available.	
  
1.	
  The	
  Swiss	
  Watch	
  Industry	
  2.	
  Challenges	
  	
  3.	
  My	
  Future	
  Role	
  4.	
  Endnotes
New	
  Product	
  categories:	
  Smart	
  watch
Smartwatches are	
  increasing	
  the	
  total	
  market	
  for	
  watches	
  but	
  are	
  as	
  well	
  in	
  
competition	
  with	
  the	
  traditional	
  Swiss	
  watch	
  brands.	
  Especially	
  cheaper	
  
brands	
  are	
  hit	
  the	
  most	
  by	
  the	
  new	
  product	
  category	
  which	
  is	
  steadily	
  
establishing	
  itself	
  and	
  soon	
  to	
  be	
  bigger	
  than	
  the	
  tablet	
  market.	
  In	
  the	
  USA	
  
already	
  every	
  4th person	
  is	
  said	
  to	
  be	
  wearing	
  a	
  smartwatch or	
  a	
  so	
  called	
  
wearable,	
  giving	
  access	
  to	
  health	
  relevant	
  data.	
  Especially	
  quartz	
  watches	
  
have	
  to	
  be	
  more	
  and	
  more	
  ’intelligent’.	
  It	
  is	
  expected	
  that	
  sooner	
  or	
  later	
  
around	
  30-­‐50%	
  of	
  the	
  Quartz	
  watches	
  exported	
  from	
  Switzerland	
  have	
  a	
  
smart	
  function.	
  Compared	
  to	
  mechanical	
  watches,	
  in	
  this	
  segment	
  the	
  
worldwide	
  competition	
  is	
  undoubtedly	
  bigger	
  as	
  major	
  electronic	
  
companies	
  are	
  fighting	
  for	
  their	
  share	
  (Apple,	
  Google,	
  Amazon	
  etc.	
  )
The	
  mechanical	
  watches	
  still	
  offer	
  a	
  different	
  buying	
  argument,	
  as	
  
especially	
  the	
  longevity	
  of	
  a	
  mechanical	
  movement	
  is	
  celebrated.	
  But	
  as	
  
well	
  brands	
  in	
  the	
  middle	
  segment	
  can	
  no	
  longer	
  neglect	
  the	
  trend	
  towards	
  
smartwatches or	
  devices	
  with	
  intelligent	
  functions	
  on	
  the	
  wrist	
  as	
  recent	
  
products	
  of	
  Tag	
  Heuer,	
  Breitling,	
  Victorniox and	
  Montblanc show.	
  The	
  
market	
  for	
  watches	
  in	
  total	
  is	
  increasing	
  but	
  it	
  is	
  yet	
  to	
  show	
  how	
  the	
  
traditional	
  Swiss	
  watch	
  industry	
  is	
  affected	
  by	
  the	
  changes.	
  
1.	
  The	
  Swiss	
  Watch	
  Industry	
  2.	
  Challenges	
  	
  3.	
  My	
  Future	
  Role	
  4.	
  Endnotes
Development	
  of	
  export	
  of	
  Swiss	
  watches	
  	
  in	
  different	
  price	
  segments
Development	
  Sales	
  in	
  Mrd $	
  of	
  conventional	
  watches	
  and	
  smartwatches (grey:	
  
smartwaches,	
  orange:	
  traditionall watch	
  industry	
  not	
  Switzerland,	
  orange
1.	
  The	
  Swiss	
  Watch	
  Industry	
  2.	
  Challenges	
  	
  3.	
  My	
  Future	
  Role	
  4.	
  Endnotes
My	
  role:	
  Building	
  up	
  a	
  distribution	
  in	
  Asian	
  countries
My	
  goal	
  is	
  to	
  establish	
  together	
  with	
  my	
  business	
  partners	
  a	
  new	
  distribution	
  network	
  in	
  Asia	
  specializing	
  on	
  
independent	
  watch	
  brands,	
  cultivating	
  the	
  tradition	
  of	
  Swiss	
  watchmaking	
  with	
  a	
  focus	
  on	
  technological	
  
innovation.	
  As	
  described	
  in	
  the	
  slices	
  above,	
  especially	
  for	
  independent	
  small	
  and	
  medium	
  sized	
  brands	
  it	
  gets	
  
more	
  and	
  more	
  complex	
  to	
  manage	
  their	
  brand	
  globally.	
  The	
  goal	
  of	
  our	
  company	
  is	
  to	
  become	
  become	
  a	
  
strong	
  partner	
  for	
  upcoming	
  watch	
  brands	
  and	
  offer	
  those	
  brands	
  efficient	
  distribution	
  and	
  market	
  expansion	
  
services	
  across	
  Asia.
In	
  2014,	
  my	
  business	
  partners	
  and	
  me	
  started	
  a	
  new	
  company	
  with	
  the	
  headquarter	
  in	
  Switzerland	
  and	
  
subsidiaries	
  in	
  Japan,	
  Taiwan	
  and	
  Hongkong.	
  The	
  goal	
  is	
  to	
  find	
  a	
  good	
  mix	
  between	
  global	
  management	
  with	
  
standardization	
  and	
  regional	
  management	
  with	
  localization.	
  	
  The	
  office	
  in	
  Switzerland	
  helps	
  us	
  to	
  keep	
  close	
  
contact	
  with	
  the	
  brands	
  locally	
  and	
  identify	
  new	
  and	
  innovative	
  watch	
  brands.	
  The	
  subsidiaries	
  in	
  three	
  major	
  
Asian	
  markets	
  give	
  us	
  a	
  certain	
  credibility	
  and	
  we	
  can	
  profit	
  from	
  knowledge	
  exchange	
  between	
  the	
  markets.	
  
Therefore	
  the	
  brand	
  message	
  and	
  image	
  can	
  be	
  equally	
  conveyed	
  in	
  our	
  markets.	
  Having	
  a	
  local	
  team	
  in	
  Japan,	
  
Taiwan	
  and	
  Honkong allows	
  us	
  to	
  cope	
  with	
  the	
  challenges	
  of	
  the	
  local	
  market.	
  Together	
  with	
  the	
  brands	
  we	
  
want	
  to	
  grow	
  in	
  the	
  current	
  markets	
  and	
  open	
  up	
  new	
  markets	
  together.
1.	
  The	
  Swiss	
  Watch	
  Industry	
  2.	
  Challenges	
   	
  3.	
  My	
  Future	
  Role	
  4.	
  Endnotes
My	
  role:	
  Be	
  connected	
  over	
  Asia
The	
  backbone	
  of	
  the	
  Swiss	
  Watch	
  industry	
  are	
  without	
  doubt	
  the	
  big	
  players	
  like	
  Swatch,	
  Richmond	
  and	
  LMVH.	
  
Nonetheless,	
  every	
  industry	
  needs	
  some	
  entrepreneurial	
  spirit	
  and	
  there	
  are	
  a	
  lot	
  of	
  very	
  interesting	
  independent	
  
watch	
  brands.	
  I	
  want	
  to	
  create	
  a	
  success	
  story	
  with	
  a	
  watch	
  brand	
  in	
  Asia	
  and	
  then	
  further	
  support	
  and	
  consult	
  
brands	
  in	
  Switzerland	
  with	
  my	
  market	
  experience.
I	
  am	
  currently	
  located	
  and	
  working	
  in	
  Japan	
  with	
  occasional	
  business	
  trips	
  to	
  Hongkong,	
  South	
  Korea	
  and	
  Taiwan.	
  
Through	
  this	
  I	
  experienced	
  how	
  the	
  major	
  brands	
  compete	
  within	
  the	
  markets.	
  On	
  one	
  hand	
  I	
  want	
  to	
  build	
  up	
  a	
  
profound	
  knowledge	
  of	
  the	
  Asian	
  markets	
  and	
  the	
  needs	
  of	
  Asian	
  luxury	
  consumers	
  and	
  on	
  the	
  other	
  hand	
  I	
  want	
  to	
  
deepen	
  my	
  knowledge	
  of	
  the	
  watch	
  production	
  in	
  Switzerland.	
  With	
  this	
  expertise	
  I	
  intend	
  to	
  build	
  a	
  bridge	
  and	
  
transfer	
  know-­‐how	
  between	
  the	
  Asia	
  and	
  Europe	
  respectively	
  Switzerland.	
  By	
  consulting	
  upcoming	
  brands	
  how	
  to	
  be	
  
successful	
  in	
  the	
  Asian	
  market	
  I	
  hope	
  to	
  support	
  to	
  further	
  promote	
  the	
  Swiss	
  watch	
  industry.
The	
  goal	
  for	
  the	
  company	
  is	
  to	
  have	
  a	
  handful	
  watch	
  brands	
  in	
  different	
  price	
  segments	
  and	
  with	
  different	
  unique	
  
selling	
  positions. By	
  uniting	
  several	
  independent	
  brands	
  and	
  manage	
  them	
  in	
  different	
  regions	
  across	
  Asia	
  we	
  can	
  	
  
achieve	
  a	
  certain	
  strength	
  and	
  cope	
  with	
  the	
  challenges	
  of	
  the	
  industry.	
  
In	
  the	
  current	
  early	
  stage	
  of	
  the	
  company,	
  we	
  try	
  to	
  identify	
  the	
  best	
  possible	
  brands.	
  Furthermore	
  I	
  challenge	
  
myself	
  to	
  deepen	
  the	
  business	
  relationships	
  for	
  example	
  with	
  local	
  partners	
  in	
  Japan.	
  Within	
  the	
  market	
  I	
  need	
  to	
  
build	
  up	
  a	
  reliable	
  basis	
  of	
  contacts	
  in	
  the	
  retail	
  business	
  and	
  gain	
  credibility	
  in	
  selling	
  high-­‐end	
  watch	
  pieces	
  to	
  
valued	
  customers.	
  I	
  want	
  to	
  build	
  up	
  a	
  network	
  in	
  Japan	
  and	
  further	
  regions	
  and	
  be	
  well	
  connected	
  with	
  the	
  
wholesale	
  and	
  retail	
  business,	
  the	
  media	
  people,	
  influencers	
  and	
  watch	
  lovers.	
  
1.	
  The	
  Swiss	
  Watch	
  Industry	
  2.	
  Challenges	
   	
  3.	
  My	
  Future	
  Role	
  4.	
  Endnotes
Besides	
  the	
  Asia	
  wide	
  management	
  of	
  a	
  brand,	
  my	
  goal	
  is	
  the	
  set	
  a	
  special	
  footprint	
  in	
  the	
  watch	
  industry	
  in	
  
Japan	
  and	
  make	
  a	
  small	
  contribution	
  to	
  support	
  Japan	
  to	
  become	
  a	
  more	
  international	
  place	
  and	
  promote	
  
entrepreneurship.	
  
Japan	
  has	
  a	
  incomparably	
  rich	
  tradition	
  and	
  cultural	
  heritage.	
  This	
  is	
  as	
  well	
  a	
  reason	
  why	
  the	
  business	
  
manners	
  are	
  very	
  traditional	
  and	
  companies	
  are	
  organized	
  in	
  a	
  hierarchic	
  way,	
  making	
  it	
  difficult	
  for	
  young	
  
employees	
  to	
  stand	
  out	
  with	
  their	
  ideas.	
  I	
  hope	
  my	
  company	
  in	
  Japan	
  we	
  can	
  be	
  a	
  role	
  model	
  and	
  by	
  getting	
  
bigger,	
  I	
  wish	
  that	
  our	
  voice	
  will	
  have	
  a	
  certain	
  value.	
  Furthermore,	
  I	
  believe	
  that	
  trading	
  with	
  foreign	
  goods	
  
can	
  help	
  to	
  convey	
  a	
  message	
  and	
  make	
  people	
  learn	
  about	
  other	
  countries.	
  This	
  is	
  why	
  I	
  want	
  to	
  be	
  involved	
  
sooner	
  or	
  later	
  for	
  example	
  at	
  the	
  Chamber	
  of	
  Commerce	
  and	
  Trade.	
  
Relating	
  to	
  the	
  watch	
  industry,	
  especially	
  in	
  the	
  current	
  digital	
  age	
  with	
  the	
  fast	
  moving	
  technology	
  industry,	
  I	
  
want	
  to	
  promote,	
  as	
  a	
  young	
  professional	
  in	
  Japan,	
  	
  European	
  craftsmanship	
  like	
  the	
  Swiss	
  watch	
  industry	
  and	
  
explain	
  young	
  people	
  the	
  fascination	
  of	
  mechanical	
  watches.	
  
My	
  role:	
  Overcome	
  challenges	
  in	
  Japan
1.	
  The	
  Swiss	
  Watch	
  Industry	
  2.	
  Challenges	
   	
  3.	
  My	
  Future	
  Role	
  4.	
  Endnotes
1.	
  The	
  Swiss	
  Watch	
  Industry	
  2.	
  Challenges	
  	
  3.	
  My	
  Future	
  Role	
  4.	
  Endnotes
Sources
Credit	
  Suisse.	
  Swiss	
  Watch	
  industry,	
  Prospects	
  and	
  Challenges,	
   10,	
  2013.
Retrieved	
   from	
  https://www.credit-­‐suisse.com/media/production/pb/docs/unternehmen/kmugrossunternehmen/uhrenstudie-­‐en.pdf
Deloitte.	
   The	
  Deloitte	
  Swiss	
  Watch	
  Industry	
  Study	
  2014.
Retrieved	
   from	
  http://www2.deloitte.com/content/dam/Deloitte/ch/Documents/consumer-­‐business/ch-­‐en-­‐swiss-­‐watch-­‐industry-­‐study-­‐2014.pdf
Deloitte.	
   The	
  deloitte Swiss	
  Watch	
  Industry	
  Study	
  	
  2015.
Retrieved	
   from	
  http://www2.deloitte.com/ch/de/pages /consumer-­‐business/articles /swiss-­‐watch-­‐industry-­‐study.html
Federation	
   of	
  the	
  Swiss	
  Watch	
  Industry.	
  The	
   Swiss	
  and	
  world	
  watchmaking	
   industry	
  in	
  2014.
Retrieved	
   from	
  http://www.fhs.ch/file/59/Watchmaking_2014.pdf	
  
Federation	
   of	
  the	
  Swiss	
  Watch	
  Industry.	
  Consumer	
  Awareness	
   Survey	
   on	
  Watches	
  2014.
Retrieved	
   from	
  http://www.fhs.ch/file/122/2014_Japan_Consumer_survey_-­‐_Summary.pdf
The	
  Financial	
  Times.	
   Special	
   Report	
  ,	
  Watches	
  &	
  Jewelry,	
   14.12.2015.
Retrieved	
   from	
  http://www.ft.com/intl/reports/watches-­‐jewellery
Merlinlinehan.	
   Chinese	
  Tourists	
  are	
   Going	
  Global,	
  How	
  Can	
  You	
  Benefit	
   From	
  This Trend?	
   15.01.2015.
Retrieved	
   from	
  http://frontiermarketstrategy.com/2014/01/15/chines e-­‐tourists-­‐are-­‐going-­‐global-­‐how-­‐can-­‐you-­‐benefit-­‐from-­‐this-­‐trend-­‐2/
Neue Züricher Zeitung,	
   Andrea	
  Martel.	
   Im Windschatten der	
  Apple	
  Watch,	
  09.11.2015.
Retrieved	
   from	
  http://www.nzz.ch/wirtschaft/diverse-­‐schweizer-­‐uhrenhersteller-­‐setzen-­‐auf-­‐intelligente-­‐uhren-­‐1.18643825
Neue Züricher Zeitung,	
   Christiane	
  Hana	
  Henkel.	
   Der	
  Kampf ums	
  Handgelenk,	
   09.11.2015.
Retrieved	
   from	
  http://www.nzz.ch/wirtschaft/unternehmen/der-­‐kampf-­‐ums-­‐handgelenk-­‐1.18643911
Swatch	
  Group.	
  Annual	
  Report	
  2014.
Retrieved	
   from	
  http://www.swatchgroup.com/investor_relations/annual_and_half_year_reports
Vontobal Equity	
  Research	
   Vontobel Luxury	
  Goods	
  Shop,	
  Swiss	
  watch	
  industry	
  with	
  another	
  record	
  year	
   in	
  2014,	
  but	
  challenging	
  environment	
   in	
  2015	
  due	
  to	
  FX,	
  27.02.2015.
1.	
  The	
  Swiss	
  Watch	
  Industry	
  2.	
  Challenges	
   	
  3.	
  My	
  Future	
  Role	
  4.	
  Endnotes

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The Swiss Watch industry: Challenges and my future Role

  • 1. What  do  you  believe  are  the  greatest  challenges  facing  the  sector  or  industry  you  would  like  to   specialize  in  at  IE? What role do  youhopetobe able toplayin  thesector or industryin  the medium  term? LUCA  ORDUÑA
  • 2. Brand   Management   At  IE  Business  school,  I  would  like  to  specialize  on  Brand   Management  with  a  focus  on  the  luxury  industry  in  Asia.  I   believe  the  Swiss  watch  industry  to  be  a  very  good  example  as   virtually  no  other  sector  is  so  focused  on  exports  and  reliant   on  achieving  success  in  an  international  environment. Furthermore,  I  am  personally  involved  in  the  watch  business.   Over  the  last  two  years  I  was  involved  in  setting  up  a   distribution  company  for  timepieces  over  Asia,  with  currently   subsidiaries  in  Japan,  HongKong and  Taiwan.  In  those   territories  we  support  watch  brands  entering  the  market  and   help  establishing  the  brand.  I  hope  that  in  the  future  the   company  can  become  an  important  player  in  the  region  and   further  expand  to  other  Asian  regions  like  Mainland  China,   South  Korea,  India  etc.  In  the  long  run  I  would  like  to  become   an  expert  for  consumer  goods  especially  for  luxury  and  lifestyle   products  across  Asia  pacific  with  an  understanding  of  how  to   build  a  brand,  using  the  right  channels  and  offering  services   and  consulting. Luxury  Industry Swiss  Watch  Industry Asia  
  • 3. The  Swiss  Watch  Industry:  Brand  management  with  a   focus  on  Asia 1.  The  Swiss  Watch  Industry  2.  Challenges    3.  My  Future  Role  4.  Endnotes
  • 4. KEY  FACTS:  Switzerland  with  quasi-­‐monopoly  in  high-­‐end  watches   • Switzerland   produces  only    around  2.5%  of  the  global  production  of   watches  (units)  but  it  is  by  far  the  leading  exporter  of  watches  in  value   terms.   • Switzerland   has  a  near  monopoly  situation  in  the  luxury  watch   segment  (mechanical   watches).   • 95%  of  the  watches  produced  in  Switzerland  are  exported. • Pronounced  almost  dead  in  1970  and  threatened  by  the  Quartz   watches  from  Japan,  the  Swiss  watch  industry  made  an  impressive   rebound  thanks  to  a  refocus  on  high-­‐end  watches  and  a  global  boom   for  luxury  goods. • A  handful  major  conglomerates   dominate  the  watch  industry  :  Swatch   Group  (brands  include  Swatch,  Omega,  Harry  Winston,  and  Tissot),   Richemont (Montblanc,  Piaget,  Cartier),   LVMH  (Tag  Heuer,  Hublot,   Zenith)  and  Rolex  (Rolex  and  Tudor). • The  “Swiss  Made”  label,  the  key  reference   in  the  watch  industry,  can   only  be  obtained  if  the  watch  is  assembled  and  inspected  in   Switzerland,  with  at  least  60%  of  the  parts  produced  in  Switzerland.   1.  The  Swiss  Watch  Industry  2.  Challenges    3.  My  Future  Role  4.  Endnotes
  • 5. KEY  FACTS:  Asia  is  the  most  important  region Exports  of  Swiss  wristwatches  reached   a  new  record  in  2014  of  CHF  21  billion   CHF,  making  Switzerland  the  country  with  the  highest  export  value  of  watches.   From  2000  to  2014  the  Swiss  watch  industry  grew  by  38%.  Looking  at  the   numbers  over  25  years,  the  growth  is  even  more  impressive:  Watch  sale  more   than  quadrupled.  Despite  this  impressive  growth,  the  quantity  (Number  of   watches)  exported  is  smaller  than  it  was  in  1988.  This  can  only  mean  one  thing:   The  average  export  price  must  have  increased  significantly.   In  2000  the  average   price  was  310  CHF  compared  to  730  CHF  in  2014. With  11.8  billion  CHF  (2014),  Asia  is  responsible  for  over  50%  of  all  Swiss  watch   exports.  Hong  Kong  is  by  far  the  most  important  market  with  a  share  of  18.5%   at  the  end  of  2014,  followed   by  USA  (10.7%)  and  further  two  Asian  countries   China  (6.3%)  and  Japan  (6.0%).   Over  the  last  years,  Asia  was  as  the  main  driver  for  growth  in  the  Swiss  watch   industry.  In  overall  terms,  Asian  countries  were  responsible  for  around  70%  of   the  growth  in  exports  in  the  2000-­‐2012  period.    The  growth  came  mainly  from   Hong  Kong  and  China,  which  together  generated  more  than  40%  of  the  growth.   Singapore,  the  United  Arab  Emirates  (UAE),  South  Korea,  Taiwan,  Saudi  Arabia,   and  Japan  are  also  among  the  15  countries  that  provided  the  biggest   contributions  to  growth. 1.  The  Swiss  Watch  Industry  2.  Challenges    3.  My  Future  Role  4.  Endnotes
  • 6. 1.  The  Swiss  Watch  Industry  2.  Challenges    3.  My  Future  Role  4.  Endnotes
  • 7. CHALLENGES  IN  SWITZERLAND Swiss  Made  Label Supplier  Situation Investment  in  facilities Currency    (CHF) CHALLENGES  IN  (ASIAN)  MARKETS Lower  growth  in  main  export  countries Importance  of  travelers  and  less  regionalism   Costly  set  up  of  distribution  system Negotiation  power  of  main  players Expensive  advertisement  costs Importance  of  Digital  Media Change  in  consumer  behavior  because  of  new   product  categories  (smart  watches) CHALLENGES  OVERVIEW 1.  The  Swiss  Watch  Industry  2.  Challenges    3.  My  Future  Role  4.  Endnotes
  • 8. STRUCTURAL  CHALLENGES  IN  SWITZERLAND In  Switzerland  itself,  the  companies   are  facing  several  structural  challenges  which  combined   are  resulting  in  an  upward  pressure   on  the  prices.     One  reason  for  the  upward  pressure  is  the  movement  production.   The  mechanical   movement  is  the  heart  of  any  watch.  Up  until  recently,  most  of  the  brands  bought  their   movements   from  ETA,  a  company  owned  by  the  Swatch  Group.  This  made  the  Swiss  watch   companies   highly  dependent   on  the  Swatch  Group.  Swatch  Group  made  the  decision   to  limit   the  deliveries  of  their  ETA  movements   to  competitors.  Therefore  the  brands  with  limited  or   without  own  movement  production   will  need  to  either  negotiate  independent   deals  with   the  Swatch  group  or  invest  in  creating  their  own  movement.   The  big  customers  like  Richemont and  LVMH,  as  they  are  able  to  buy  in  a  bigger  quantity   than  independent   brands,   will  probably  still  be  delivered  by  Swatch  Group  with  ETA   movements.   Still  brands  have  to  more  and  more  look  for  alternatives.  This  is  why  brands  all   over  Switzerland  need  to  invest  more  and  more  into  the  construction   of  new  production   facilities.  It  is  a  big  challenge  to  produce   at  the  same  quality  and  price  like  ETA  as  they  have  a   critical  mass  and  benefiting  from  experience,  facilities  and  economies   of  scales.  For  other   brands,  the  investment  in  production   facilities,  Know-­‐how   of  movement  production   and  less   quantity  will  increase  the  prices  of  the  movements.   1.  The  Swiss  Watch  Industry  2.  Challenges    3.  My  Future  Role  4.  Endnotes
  • 9. STRUCTURAL  CHALLENGES  IN  SWITZERLAND The  “Swiss  Made”  Label  is  extremely  valuable  in  the  watch  industry  and  is  used  by  the  brand  as  marketing  and  quality  label.    It   allows  to  sell  the  watches  at  a  certain  premium.  The  parliament   passed  in  2013  a  “Swissness”  amendment  with  stricter  criteria   governing  the  use  of  the  Swiss  Made  label,  stating  that  at  least  60%  of  the  production  costs  must  be  attributable  to  operations  in   Switzerland  and  that  the  watch  must  be  developed,  assembled  and  inspected  in  Switzerland.   This  leads  to  greater  demand  of  Swiss  watch  components  and  combined  with  the  limited  supply  from  Swatch  Group  (previous   slide)  further  intensifies   the  need  for  brands  towards  vertical  integration  and  to  invest  in  production  capacities.   Another  challenge   is  the  Swiss  Franc’s  exchange  rate.  Since  the  Swiss  National  Bank  in  January  gave  up  efforts  to  cap  the  franc’s   value  against  the  euro,  the  Swiss  currency  has  strengthened  by  more  than  10  per  cent.  Furthermore,  the  decline   of  the  euro,   ruble,  yen  and  renminbi and  the  rise  of  the  dollar  have  also  contributed  to  watchmakers’  headaches. The  limited  supply  by  the  Swatch  group,  the  increased  demand  of  Swiss  made  parts  through  the  Swissness initiative,  not  having   the  possibility  to  shift  production  abroad  and  therefore  be  more  exposed  to  the  exchange  rate  which  developed  adversely  for   the  brands,  are  testing  the  pricing   power  of  Swiss  Watchmakers.   This  can  have  an  adverse  impact  on  the  competitiveness   especially   for  the  smaller  and  mid-­‐sized  companies  in  the  lower  and  medium  price  range.  Brands  had  to  increase  and   renegotiate  prices,  which  is  still  easier   in  the  high-­‐end  watchmaking.  Nonetheless,  not  all  brands  can  adopt  price  increases   the   same  way,  especially   in  the  lower-­‐prices   market  segments  . 1.  The  Swiss  Watch  Industry  2.  Challenges    3.  My  Future  Role  4.  Endnotes
  • 10. ASIA:  LOWER  GROWTH  IN  MAIN  MARKETS Even  though  the  Swiss  watch  industry  is  very  diversified,   the  growing  significance   of   the  Chinese  market  poses  a  degree  of  cluster  risk  for  the  industry.  Thanks  to  a  growth   jump,  mainland  China  moved  up  to  third  place  and  accounted  for  8%  of  Swiss  watch   exports  in  2012.  If  Hong  Kong,  Macao,  and  Taiwan  are  also  included,  by  the  end  of   2012,  30%  of  the  watch  exports  went  to  the  Chinese  Market.  It  is  not  ultimately   surprising  that  those  growth  rates  could  not  continue  in  the  same  way,  but,  as   indicated  by  the  graph,  since  2012  the  sales  is  declining.   This  declining   intensified   in  2015  and  for  example  in  July  2015,  all  the  eight  leading   markets  were  down,  often  steeply.   The  pessimism  about  China  and  Hong  Kong  can  be  explained   by  the  lower  rates  of   growth  in  the  economies  of  many  emerging   markets,  the  devaluation  of  Yuan  and   also  the  anti-­‐corruption  and  anti-­‐kickback  legislation   in  China  (crackdown  on   exorbitant  spending  of  party  official) The  picture  for  Hong  Kong  is  even  worse,  as  currently  a  lot  of  challenges   are   occurring.  There  is  the  effect  of  the  strong  Swiss  Franc,  falling   tourism  from  China  to   Hong  Kong  (also  due  to  less  stringent  conditions  for  Chinese  people  to  get  travel  visas   to  other  destinations)  and  the  effects  of  the  Umbrella  Revolution.  This  decline  has   started  to  create  a  build-­‐up  in  inventory  and  inventories  have  reached  a  6-­‐10  months   of  sales  of  some  brands.     1.  The  Swiss  Watch  Industry  2.  Challenges    3.  My  Future  Role  4.  Endnotes
  • 11. ASIA:  CHINESE  TOURISTS Besides   the  sales  in  China,   one  of  the  most  important  customer  group  are  and   continue  to  be  the  Chinese   travelers.  The  high  sales  tax  is  reducing  the  domestic   purchasing   and  the  Chinese   customers   take  advantage  of  buying  the  Swiss   watches  abroad  at  a  lower  price.  Studies   say  that  in  2012  37%  of  the  Chinese   travelers  bought  a  watch  during  their  trip.  For  a  long  time,  around  half  of  the   watches  were  bought  in  Taiwan,  Macao  or  Hong  Kong.  In  Europe,  the  most  sales   occurred    in  Paris.    Because  of  political  developments   and  less  stringent  rules  for   visa  for  the  Chinese,   a  lot  of  new  destination  came  into  focus  of  shoppers.   Therefore  it  is  crucial  for  the  major  brands  to  have  presence  where  the  Chinese   customers  are  traveling  to.  The  head  of  the  LVMH  watch  division,   Jean-­‐Claude   Biver,  for  example  said:  “We  will  follow  the  Chinese   customer  wherever  he  goes   and  offer  them  the  possibility   to  buy  our  watches” From  2013  to  2014,  Sales  of  watches  to  Chinese   in  South   Korea  for  example  rose   significantly   but  dropped  even  more  after  the  virus  MERS  broke  out.  That   followed  a  significant  increase  in  Sales  in  Japan  because  the  Yen  is  at  lowest  level   in  real  terms  since  early  1970  and  has  depreciated  almost  50%  against  the   renminbi.   This  shows  the  challenge  of  the  watch  industry   as  it  is  necessary  to   have  the  desired  products   available  at  the  right  time  at  the  right  place.   Furthermore   the  Chinese   market  has  to  carefully  taken  care  off,  so  that  the   Chinese   buy  the  specific   brand  while  traveling.  The  internet  and  the  flow  of   tourist  have  removed  regionalism  and  brands  have  to  think  and  act  globally  in   every  kind  of  aspect  like  product  planning,   availability  of  product  and  marketing.   1.  The  Swiss  Watch  Industry  2.  Challenges    3.  My  Future  Role  4.  Endnotes
  • 12. CONTROLING  DISTRIBUTION  CHANNELS As  already  mentioned  on  the  last  slide,  optimization  of  sales  channels  is  one  of  the  important  strategic  point  of  the   watch  brands.   Well  established,  financially  solid  brands  have  to  decide  to  what  extend  and  in  which  markets  they  want   to  handle  and  control  the  distribution  by  themselves.  Smaller  brand  face  the  challenge  that  vertical  integration  is  very   costly  and  often  not  a  strategic  option.  Therefore  they  must  evaluate  the  most  efficient  method  of  gaining  access  to   markets.   In  the  past,  almost  all  luxury  watches  were  sold  via  specialist  retailers  and  regional  retail  groups.  Through  the  market   consolidation  and  the  increasing  strength  of  larger  groups,  the  groups  have  an  increased  influence  on  the  specialist   dealer  and  it  gets  challenging  for  smaller  and  medium  brands  to  obtain  shelf  space.  Less  known  brands  represent  as  well   a  certain  financial  risk  for  the  distributor  and  the  retailer.  This  makes  it  difficult  for  smaller  and  independent  brands  to   get  into  a  retail  store  and  if  space  is  offered,  the  watches  are  mostly  only  on  consignment.  Therefore  the  establishment   of  a  global  presence  for  brands  is  costly  and  needs  a  lot  of  experience  in  the  different  markets.  The  high  costs  of   managing  and  the  difficulty  of  finding  a  distributor  for  the  brands  made  them  often  try  to  directly  contact  retailers  or  sell the  brand  over  internet.  This  leaded  to  a  confusing  situation  in  some  markets  where  the  purchasing  experience  is   unclear  or  not  available  to  many  customers.  Often  potential  customers  don’t  know  where  and  when  certain  products   are  available.   Well  established  Brands  from  the  big  groups  try  to  control  the  distribution  by  establishing  monobrand boutiques  and   M&A  in  vertical  direction  by  acquiring  suppliers  and  retailers.  This  allows  the  brands  to  control  the  environment  and   sales  process  (trainees  staff  to  transmit  brand  values,  control  discounts/grey  market,  control  collection).  Furthermore  it   is  easier  for  the  brands  to  better  supply  the  actual  needs  at  distribution  points and  react  to  changes.   1.  The  Swiss  Watch  Industry  2.  Challenges    3.  My  Future  Role  4.  Endnotes
  • 13. HIGH  ADVERTISMENT  COSTS  and  DIGITAL  MANAGEMENT It  gets  more  and  more  important  to  spend  a  significant  amount  on  marketing  efforts.  The  major  brands  invest   a  lot  on  sponsoring  selected  events  to  strengthen  their  brand  image  and  position.  Sports  plays  an  important   role  in  the  marketing  mix  and  brands  sponsor  marathons,  selected  tournaments  (golf,  tennis)  and    teams   (soccer,  F1  racing,  sailing).  Furthermore  brand  ambassadors  like  tennis  players  (Roger  Federer,  Stanislav   Wawrinka)  are  an  integral  part  of  the  marketing.  Last  but  not  least  product  placement  in  movies  is  gaining  in   importance  due  to  the  recent  blockbusters  (007).   Those  strategies  are  more  often  used  by  large  brands  that  can  afford  them.  Small  independent  brands,  which   usually  have  limited  marketing  budgets,  focus  more  on  social  media  and  the  internet,  as  these  offer  a  better   opportunity  to  reach  a  global  audience  and  engage  with  target  customers  at  a  lower  cost. Online  marketing  campaigns,  homepage,  social  Media  and  Blogs  play  more  and  more  a  role  during  the  buying   decision.  Brands  need  to  permanently  monitor  the  online  activities  and  it  gets  necessary  to  install  teams  which   support  those  efforts.   An  increasing  number  of  watch  brands  are  experimenting  with  the  possibility  of  online  sales  channels.  A   challenge  is  to  balance  exclusivity  and  ubiquity,  mass  and  class.  The  goal  is  to  make  everyone  as  aware  as   possible  of  the  brands  promise  but  keep  the  achievements  of  the  brands  exclusive.  A  big  obstacle  of  online   sales  are  the  counterfeits.  Furthermore,  through  the  high  growth  rates  over  the  last  year,  during  a  slowdown  of   the  economy,  a  lot  of  second  hand  watches  could  become  available.   1.  The  Swiss  Watch  Industry  2.  Challenges    3.  My  Future  Role  4.  Endnotes
  • 14. New  Product  categories:  Smart  watch Smartwatches are  increasing  the  total  market  for  watches  but  are  as  well  in   competition  with  the  traditional  Swiss  watch  brands.  Especially  cheaper   brands  are  hit  the  most  by  the  new  product  category  which  is  steadily   establishing  itself  and  soon  to  be  bigger  than  the  tablet  market.  In  the  USA   already  every  4th person  is  said  to  be  wearing  a  smartwatch or  a  so  called   wearable,  giving  access  to  health  relevant  data.  Especially  quartz  watches   have  to  be  more  and  more  ’intelligent’.  It  is  expected  that  sooner  or  later   around  30-­‐50%  of  the  Quartz  watches  exported  from  Switzerland  have  a   smart  function.  Compared  to  mechanical  watches,  in  this  segment  the   worldwide  competition  is  undoubtedly  bigger  as  major  electronic   companies  are  fighting  for  their  share  (Apple,  Google,  Amazon  etc.  ) The  mechanical  watches  still  offer  a  different  buying  argument,  as   especially  the  longevity  of  a  mechanical  movement  is  celebrated.  But  as   well  brands  in  the  middle  segment  can  no  longer  neglect  the  trend  towards   smartwatches or  devices  with  intelligent  functions  on  the  wrist  as  recent   products  of  Tag  Heuer,  Breitling,  Victorniox and  Montblanc show.  The   market  for  watches  in  total  is  increasing  but  it  is  yet  to  show  how  the   traditional  Swiss  watch  industry  is  affected  by  the  changes.   1.  The  Swiss  Watch  Industry  2.  Challenges    3.  My  Future  Role  4.  Endnotes Development  of  export  of  Swiss  watches    in  different  price  segments Development  Sales  in  Mrd $  of  conventional  watches  and  smartwatches (grey:   smartwaches,  orange:  traditionall watch  industry  not  Switzerland,  orange
  • 15. 1.  The  Swiss  Watch  Industry  2.  Challenges    3.  My  Future  Role  4.  Endnotes
  • 16. My  role:  Building  up  a  distribution  in  Asian  countries My  goal  is  to  establish  together  with  my  business  partners  a  new  distribution  network  in  Asia  specializing  on   independent  watch  brands,  cultivating  the  tradition  of  Swiss  watchmaking  with  a  focus  on  technological   innovation.  As  described  in  the  slices  above,  especially  for  independent  small  and  medium  sized  brands  it  gets   more  and  more  complex  to  manage  their  brand  globally.  The  goal  of  our  company  is  to  become  become  a   strong  partner  for  upcoming  watch  brands  and  offer  those  brands  efficient  distribution  and  market  expansion   services  across  Asia. In  2014,  my  business  partners  and  me  started  a  new  company  with  the  headquarter  in  Switzerland  and   subsidiaries  in  Japan,  Taiwan  and  Hongkong.  The  goal  is  to  find  a  good  mix  between  global  management  with   standardization  and  regional  management  with  localization.    The  office  in  Switzerland  helps  us  to  keep  close   contact  with  the  brands  locally  and  identify  new  and  innovative  watch  brands.  The  subsidiaries  in  three  major   Asian  markets  give  us  a  certain  credibility  and  we  can  profit  from  knowledge  exchange  between  the  markets.   Therefore  the  brand  message  and  image  can  be  equally  conveyed  in  our  markets.  Having  a  local  team  in  Japan,   Taiwan  and  Honkong allows  us  to  cope  with  the  challenges  of  the  local  market.  Together  with  the  brands  we   want  to  grow  in  the  current  markets  and  open  up  new  markets  together. 1.  The  Swiss  Watch  Industry  2.  Challenges    3.  My  Future  Role  4.  Endnotes
  • 17. My  role:  Be  connected  over  Asia The  backbone  of  the  Swiss  Watch  industry  are  without  doubt  the  big  players  like  Swatch,  Richmond  and  LMVH.   Nonetheless,  every  industry  needs  some  entrepreneurial  spirit  and  there  are  a  lot  of  very  interesting  independent   watch  brands.  I  want  to  create  a  success  story  with  a  watch  brand  in  Asia  and  then  further  support  and  consult   brands  in  Switzerland  with  my  market  experience. I  am  currently  located  and  working  in  Japan  with  occasional  business  trips  to  Hongkong,  South  Korea  and  Taiwan.   Through  this  I  experienced  how  the  major  brands  compete  within  the  markets.  On  one  hand  I  want  to  build  up  a   profound  knowledge  of  the  Asian  markets  and  the  needs  of  Asian  luxury  consumers  and  on  the  other  hand  I  want  to   deepen  my  knowledge  of  the  watch  production  in  Switzerland.  With  this  expertise  I  intend  to  build  a  bridge  and   transfer  know-­‐how  between  the  Asia  and  Europe  respectively  Switzerland.  By  consulting  upcoming  brands  how  to  be   successful  in  the  Asian  market  I  hope  to  support  to  further  promote  the  Swiss  watch  industry. The  goal  for  the  company  is  to  have  a  handful  watch  brands  in  different  price  segments  and  with  different  unique   selling  positions. By  uniting  several  independent  brands  and  manage  them  in  different  regions  across  Asia  we  can     achieve  a  certain  strength  and  cope  with  the  challenges  of  the  industry.   In  the  current  early  stage  of  the  company,  we  try  to  identify  the  best  possible  brands.  Furthermore  I  challenge   myself  to  deepen  the  business  relationships  for  example  with  local  partners  in  Japan.  Within  the  market  I  need  to   build  up  a  reliable  basis  of  contacts  in  the  retail  business  and  gain  credibility  in  selling  high-­‐end  watch  pieces  to   valued  customers.  I  want  to  build  up  a  network  in  Japan  and  further  regions  and  be  well  connected  with  the   wholesale  and  retail  business,  the  media  people,  influencers  and  watch  lovers.   1.  The  Swiss  Watch  Industry  2.  Challenges    3.  My  Future  Role  4.  Endnotes
  • 18. Besides  the  Asia  wide  management  of  a  brand,  my  goal  is  the  set  a  special  footprint  in  the  watch  industry  in   Japan  and  make  a  small  contribution  to  support  Japan  to  become  a  more  international  place  and  promote   entrepreneurship.   Japan  has  a  incomparably  rich  tradition  and  cultural  heritage.  This  is  as  well  a  reason  why  the  business   manners  are  very  traditional  and  companies  are  organized  in  a  hierarchic  way,  making  it  difficult  for  young   employees  to  stand  out  with  their  ideas.  I  hope  my  company  in  Japan  we  can  be  a  role  model  and  by  getting   bigger,  I  wish  that  our  voice  will  have  a  certain  value.  Furthermore,  I  believe  that  trading  with  foreign  goods   can  help  to  convey  a  message  and  make  people  learn  about  other  countries.  This  is  why  I  want  to  be  involved   sooner  or  later  for  example  at  the  Chamber  of  Commerce  and  Trade.   Relating  to  the  watch  industry,  especially  in  the  current  digital  age  with  the  fast  moving  technology  industry,  I   want  to  promote,  as  a  young  professional  in  Japan,    European  craftsmanship  like  the  Swiss  watch  industry  and   explain  young  people  the  fascination  of  mechanical  watches.   My  role:  Overcome  challenges  in  Japan 1.  The  Swiss  Watch  Industry  2.  Challenges    3.  My  Future  Role  4.  Endnotes
  • 19. 1.  The  Swiss  Watch  Industry  2.  Challenges    3.  My  Future  Role  4.  Endnotes
  • 20. Sources Credit  Suisse.  Swiss  Watch  industry,  Prospects  and  Challenges,   10,  2013. Retrieved   from  https://www.credit-­‐suisse.com/media/production/pb/docs/unternehmen/kmugrossunternehmen/uhrenstudie-­‐en.pdf Deloitte.   The  Deloitte  Swiss  Watch  Industry  Study  2014. Retrieved   from  http://www2.deloitte.com/content/dam/Deloitte/ch/Documents/consumer-­‐business/ch-­‐en-­‐swiss-­‐watch-­‐industry-­‐study-­‐2014.pdf Deloitte.   The  deloitte Swiss  Watch  Industry  Study    2015. Retrieved   from  http://www2.deloitte.com/ch/de/pages /consumer-­‐business/articles /swiss-­‐watch-­‐industry-­‐study.html Federation   of  the  Swiss  Watch  Industry.  The   Swiss  and  world  watchmaking   industry  in  2014. Retrieved   from  http://www.fhs.ch/file/59/Watchmaking_2014.pdf   Federation   of  the  Swiss  Watch  Industry.  Consumer  Awareness   Survey   on  Watches  2014. Retrieved   from  http://www.fhs.ch/file/122/2014_Japan_Consumer_survey_-­‐_Summary.pdf The  Financial  Times.   Special   Report  ,  Watches  &  Jewelry,   14.12.2015. Retrieved   from  http://www.ft.com/intl/reports/watches-­‐jewellery Merlinlinehan.   Chinese  Tourists  are   Going  Global,  How  Can  You  Benefit   From  This Trend?   15.01.2015. Retrieved   from  http://frontiermarketstrategy.com/2014/01/15/chines e-­‐tourists-­‐are-­‐going-­‐global-­‐how-­‐can-­‐you-­‐benefit-­‐from-­‐this-­‐trend-­‐2/ Neue Züricher Zeitung,   Andrea  Martel.   Im Windschatten der  Apple  Watch,  09.11.2015. Retrieved   from  http://www.nzz.ch/wirtschaft/diverse-­‐schweizer-­‐uhrenhersteller-­‐setzen-­‐auf-­‐intelligente-­‐uhren-­‐1.18643825 Neue Züricher Zeitung,   Christiane  Hana  Henkel.   Der  Kampf ums  Handgelenk,   09.11.2015. Retrieved   from  http://www.nzz.ch/wirtschaft/unternehmen/der-­‐kampf-­‐ums-­‐handgelenk-­‐1.18643911 Swatch  Group.  Annual  Report  2014. Retrieved   from  http://www.swatchgroup.com/investor_relations/annual_and_half_year_reports Vontobal Equity  Research   Vontobel Luxury  Goods  Shop,  Swiss  watch  industry  with  another  record  year   in  2014,  but  challenging  environment   in  2015  due  to  FX,  27.02.2015. 1.  The  Swiss  Watch  Industry  2.  Challenges    3.  My  Future  Role  4.  Endnotes