Hunky Dory iPhone 5 Tear Down and Repair Guide

REPLACING THE FRONT ASSEMBLY WITH NEW
FULL ASSEMBLY

TOOLS NEEDED
•

Pentalobe Screw Driver

•

Plastic Suction Cup

•

Spudger tool

•

Latex Gloves

•

Regular .8 but screw driver

•

TONS of plastic pry tools

•

Static mat with static bracelet in place

•

Screw Magnetic mat for organizational layout

•

TIME!

REMOVING THE BOTTOM BEZEL SCREWS

Make sure to:
• Remember that the plating on the iPhone 5 is very delicate, and scratches can
surface from the slightest pressure of a screw driver. Remove the screws using your
pentalobe screw driver, keeping them separate from everything else.
• Always pre –check the condition of the phone and formulate what needs to be
cleaned at the end of the repair

REMOVING THE TOP ASSEMBLY FROM THE
REAR CASE

Make sure to:
• Use the plastic suction cup, place it just above the top of the home button. Place the
phone flat on the static mat, using your hand to hold it securely in place.
• Pull up and use the rubber spudger to slowly pry the assembly from the rear case
• Sometimes using the spudger and prying up on the bottom left and right sides to
clearly pull it from the rear case is the safest option.

REMOVE THE DISPLAY RIBBON BRACKET PLACE
SCREWS

Make sure to:
• Hold the display assembly at a right angle as you remove each screw. The circled red
ones are the same size, and need to be kept together, the orange one is a completely
different size. Unscrew them, and pull the bracket out with tweezers
• Make sure to line the screws up on the magnetic mat with the bracket so you know
the correct positions that the screws will go back into the phone.

REMOVE THE BATTERY BRACKETS AND
SCREWS

Make sure to:
• Keep holding the display up right, we do not want to stretch the cables
• Remove the bottom bracket screws first, the red and orange circles designate the
position and different sizes.
• Keep these two screws together, but lay them out according to the position they will
go back in.
• Pull the bracket off with a set of tweezers so that nothing touches the board

PRY THE BATTERY CONNECTER OFF THE BOARD

Make sure to:
• Have the phone powered off and on top of the static mat, we do not
want any ESD damage when we put the new display on
• USE A PLASTIC PRY TOOL! NEVER A METAL FLAT HEAD!
• Once the connecter is off, use the spudger to ease the battery out of
its cradle and pull it out of the phone

REMOVE THE FRONT FACING CAMERA CABLE

Make sure to:
• USE A PLASTIC PRY TOOL ONLY!
• Always check to see if the battery is disconnected and the phone is
turned off before removing any of the ribbons
• This ribbon is on the far right, and it is the one vertical positioned
ribbon

REMOVE THE DIGITIZER CABLE

Make sure to:
• ALWAYS USE A PLASTIC PRY TOOL!
• This is the digitizer cable and it sits on top of the LCD cable
• Pry up on it and and away from the logic board

REMOVE THE LCD CABLE

Make sure to:
• ALWAYS USE A PLASTIC PRY TOOL!
• This is the LCD ribbon and it is the last ribbon that attached the
assembly to the logic board and rear case.
• Once you pry it up, the assembly should fall away from the rear case

PUTTING THE NEW ASSEMBLY ON PART 1
•

Now that we have the entire assembly off, we are going to replace it
with a new full assembly, one that has the home button, LCD frame
plate and front facing camera already in place.

•

Take the static wrap from the back of the plate if there is one (Most of
the time there isn’t because the LCD is covered by the metal plate.

•

Check the new display, make sure there isn’t any blemishes or cracks.
Make sure the home button and front facing camera are properly
aligned

•

Attach the LCD Ribbon first onto the board, and make sure it is secure.

•

Attach the digitizer ribbon over the LCD ribbon and make sure it is
secure

•

Attach the front facing camera ribbon last and make sure it is secure.

•

Place the ribbon bracket on, making sure the two red circled screws are
on the bottom, and the other one is securely holding it down, be careful
screwing to tight can cause the thread brick to damage and fall of the
board

PUTTING THE NEW ASSEMBLY ON PART 2
•

Now that we have the display in place, the ribbons connected and the
bracket on top of them, make sure to continue to hold the display at an
angle so we do not stretch, bend or tear the LCD assembly ribbons

•

Place the battery in the phone, making sure it is not sitting on an angle
or misshapen in any way. Attach the connector to the logic board

•

Cover the connecter with the bracket, making sure it is aligned correctly

•

Screw the bracket into place making sure that it is secure and there is
no way that the battery could disconnect.

•

Align the display frame with the slots on either side of the phone, press
down and allow the LCD assembly to fall into place, sometimes you can
use the plastic spudger to gain some slack and fit the assembly in tight

•

Tighten and secure the bottom bezel screws, making sure not to scratch
the phone or strip the screws.

REPLACING THE LCD WITHOUT THE FULL
ASSEMBLY, LCD AND FRAME ONLY

REMOVE THE ASSEMBLY FROM THE REAR CASE

Make sure to:
• Remove it from the home bottom and then move upwards, making
sure not to catch any of the ribbons on the case.
• Remove the LCD and place it flat on the static mat

REMOVE THE TOP EARPIECE BRACKET SCREWS
AND BRACKET

Make sure to:
• Remember that the two screws are different sizes and have specific
positions on the bracket to secure it into place
• Pull the screws out and pry the bracket off, laying them out on the
static mat in the correct position for reassembly

REMOVE THE ACTUAL EARPIECE FROM THE
ASSEMBLY

Make sure to:
• Remember that this is the one time that using your hands will benefit
the quality of the repair. These earpieces are very volatile and we do
not want to use a flat head or any kind of metal tool to create ESD
damage.
• Once the bracket has been unscrewed and remove you can pull the

PRY THE FRONT FACING CAMERA SENSOR
RIBBON OFF OF THE ASSEMBLY

Make sure to:
• Notice the two copper points, these are integral for the functionality of the front facing
camera for grounding points, they also help point out where to place the pry tool.
• GENTLY use a PLASTIC pry tool to peel the sensor cable as well as the front facing
camera away from the assembly
• Once you have the sensor loose, you can use tweezers to pull it completely off.

REMOVING THE HOME BUTTON ASSEMBLY AND
BRACKET

Make sure to:
• Remember that the screws were only meant for the home button
bracket, and they need to go back onto the new LCD that we will be
putting the various parts on

REMOVING THE WHOLE HOME BUTTON
ASSEMBLY

Make sure to:
• Note the copper points to the right of the home button assembly, they
look similar to the top front facing camera sensor, these are
grounding points and cannot be damaged! Use them as a map to
figure out from what angle to pry the assembly and bracket off.
• Pry with a plastic pry tool only, and gently pry and pull of the

REMOVE THE PHYSICAL HOME BUTTON

Make sure to:
• Use a plastic pry tool, we will be recycling this LCD so make sure not
to incur any more damage then there already is
• The physical home button has a black rubber material that helps it sit
correctly on the lcd when the bracket is place over it
• Pry it up and peel it off with a pair of tweezers

REMOVE THE FIRST SIDE LCD FRAME BRACKET
SCREWS

Make sure to:
• Be careful when holding the LCD and taking these screws off, place it
flat on the table and unscrew the first side screws.
• These screws are closer together then the other side, but all the screws
thankfully are the same size, so if you mix them up it wont matter, just
make sure to organize them all together correctly so mistakes don’t

REMOVE THE OTHER SIDE FRAME SCREWS

Make sure to:
• Be careful when holding the LCD and taking these screws off, place it flat on the table
and unscrew the first side screws.
• These screws are farther apart then the other side, but all the screws thankfully are
the same size, so if you mix them up it wont matter, just make sure to organize them
all together correctly so mistakes don’t occur.

REMOVING THE LCD BACK PLATE SCREWS

Make sure to:
• Remember that these two screws are not the same size, they have
different positions and usage outside of the other frame screws, as well
as each other
• Remove them gently and lay them out in the correct organizational
pattern

REMOVE THE BACK LCD PLATE FROM THE
ASSEMBLY

Make sure to:
• Never put pressure on any part of the actual LCD when you are
pulling the plate off
• Grip it from the sides, but sometimes using a spudger tool and lightly
lifting it off the lcd assembly works as awell

BUILDING THE NEW LCD ASSEMBLY
•

Now that we have all of the individual pieces taken off of the old LCD assembly, we have to put
them on the new LCD assembly.

•

Start with the physical home button, placing the rubber around the home button on the correct
position so that the home button is not misaligned. There still should be some adhesive on the
bracket and actual ribbon, so put it into place, securing the two screws on either side.

•

Take the front facing camera ribbon, aligning the two copper points in the have square
indentation on the top of the LCD assembly, make sure the front facing camera housing plastic
is cleaned with canned air before putting it on, as well as the camera itself.

•

Now take the earpiece and place it inside of the square indentation, placing the bracket over it
and securing the two screws in place so that it sits snug and correctly onto the LCD assembly.

•

Now take the metal frame piece that covers the LCD in your hand, remove the static tape that
covers the new LCD and place the metal backing over the LCD, secure the two screws at the
top and bottom of the plate first, remembering that the top one is a different size from the
bottom. Then secure the 2 screws on each side of the plate

•

Now the entire assembly is back in order and can be put onto the iPhone 5

PUTTING THE NEW BUILT ASSEMBLY ON THE
PHONE AND REAR CASE
•
•
•
•
•
•

•
•
•

Now that we have built the full assembly, we will first make sure the battery is still
disconnected and out of the phone, we do not want to cause any ESD damage as we are
putting it back into the phone.
Start by holding the display at a right angle against the rear case, push the LCD ribbon into
place, then the Digitizer ribbon that sits on top of it.
Now plug the front facing camera ribbon in
Align the ribbon bracket into place, securing it down with the two screws on the bottom, and
the third on the top left. Now the LCD is connected and in place correctly.
Pick the battery up and correctly place it into the rear case of the phone, then push the socket
into place.
Now secure the bracket and screws over it, making sure its nice and tight so the battery does
not pop off
Now hold the LCD assembly on the left and right sides, making sure the top is flush with the
edge of the phone and is not stretching or bending the ribbons.
Slide it down into place, use the spudger tool to fit it snug into the phone, checking for gaps on
all sides, then secure the two bezel screws into place!
Test the phone checking all functionality including the camera home button and earpiece as
well as the LCD

REPLACING THE LIGHTNING CONNECTOR DOCK
ASSEMBLY

REMOVE THE CELLULAR ANTENNA BELOW THE
BATTERY SOCKET

Make sure to:
• Use the plastic pry tool or spudger to pull the pinion cap off of the
logic board
• Be very gentle, if this is damaged it can cause signal loss in the
phone, and it can be replaced, but we want to be careful with the
pinion spot it connects to on the board itself.

REMOVE THE LOGIC BOARD BRACKET AT THE
TOP RIGHT OF THE PHONE

Make sure to:
• Notice that the screw sizes are completely different, the red one will only fit on the top
right and the orange will only fit on the bottom left
• Once you remove the screws, pull the logic board bracket out with a pair of tweezers.
• Notice the the grouding tab to the right of the bracket, make sure it does not snap off

REMOVE THE UPPER INTERCONNECT CABLE

Make sure to:
• ALWAYS USE A PLASTIC OR RUBBER PRY TOOL!
• These next three ribbons are integral to just about everything external
functioning on the logic board
• Do not use a metal flat head screw driver to remove, and check to
make sure the battery is completely removed before removing it.

REMOVE THE BUTTON ASSEMBLY RIBBON FLEX

Make sure to:
• These next three ribbons are integral to just about everything external functioning on
the logic board
• Do not use a metal flat head screw driver to remove, and check to make sure the
battery is completely removed before removing it.

REMOVE THE LOWER INTERCONNECT CABLE

Make sure to:
• These next three ribbons are integral to just about everything external
functioning on the logic board
• Do not use a metal flat head screw driver to remove, and check to
make sure the battery is completely removed before removing it.

REMOVE THE TOP MIDDLE SCREWS FROM THE
REAR CASE

Make sure to:
• Remember that these two screws are intended only for this purpose,
so when you pull them out, align them in an organization pattern on
the magnetic mat.

REMOVE THE LOGIC BOARD MID-SECTION
BRACKET

Make sure to:
• Remember that this bracket sits above the battery cover bracket
• The screw is made just for this bracket and helps keep it aligned and
protect the mid-section of the logic board, so make sure it is laid out
next to the bracket itself on your magnetic mat

REMOVE THE LIGHTING CONNECTER DOCK FLEX
RIBBON SOCKET

Make sure to:
• ALWAYS USE A RUBBER OR PLASTIC PRY TOOL TO REMOVE
THIS!
• This flex controls the input and output of the lighting connector, and if
the socket is damaged in any way, sometimes certain aspects of the
phone will start to not work properly

PEEL BACK THE REST OF THE LIGHTING CABLE
RIBBON FLEX AWAY FROM THE BOARD

Make sure to:
• Use a flat pry tool first to move the adhesive back and forth and help
you peel it from the logic board easier.
• Do not peel it all the way off, just up and off the logic board and only
the inch section of the actual socket flex ribbon.

REMOVE THE SIM CARD TRAY

Although this step is common and self explanatory, I do want to
point out that when removing the sim card tray, do not push down
to hard and do not scratch the rear case of the iPhone 5, it has
issues with any abrasions occurring and they show up out of
nowhere. We do not want the cosmetics of the phone damaged in
any way.

REMOVE THE 5 BOTTOM LOGIC BOARD SCREWS

Make sure to:
• Remember the two different colors designate a different size of screw
• Do not forget the top right screw, it is hard to see in the picture
• The orange screws come off easier when you use the flat head screw
driver, but make sure not to strip them, the battery and logic board
bracket screws screw into the top of these screws.

START TO PULL THE BOARD OUT OF THE REAR
CASE

Make sure to:
• Pull it up and twist slightly, there is an antenna pinion that we need to
disconnect from the logic board before pulling it.
• Never yank the board off the pinion, pull and twist slight, and be very
gentle when doing so

REMOVE THE WI-FI ANTENNA PINION

Make sure to:
• Use a the spudger or plastic pry tool to remove the antenna pinion.
• Be careful not to damage or change the shape of the antenna pinion
cap, its cheap pot metal so it bends and gets misshapen easily
• NEVER USE A METAL FLATHEAD SCREWDRIVER!
• Once that’s done, you can now pull the board from the rear case

REMOVING THE SCREWS THAT HOLD THE
LIGHTING CABLE ASSEMBLY

Make sure to:
• Notice the different head sizes and positions of these screws
• The colors tell you the common screws that stay together
• When you remove each screw, lay out the organizational
pattern on your magnetic mat, so you know where everything
goes when you reassemble the phone.

REMOVING THE ADHESIVE ON THE BOTTOM OF
THE LIGHTING CONNECTOR ASSEMBLY

Make sure to:
• Use a plastic pry tool, or the spudger to get in between the rear case
and the dock assembly
• Start by prying up from the bottom of the socket connector flex and
make your way down
• Then carefully pull the assembly from the rear case

DO NOT LOOSE THE WASHERS!

Make sure to:
• Keep the washers that are on either side of the speaker enclosure,
they Help keep the correct amount of gap between the assembly and
the enclosure to make the speakers sound clearer.

REMOVING THE SPEAKER ENCLOSURE FROM
THE DOCK ASSEMBLY RIBBON

Make sure to:
• Carefully peel the enclosure from the dock assembly, starting with a
pry tool sometimes helps get it loose so it peels correctly
• Grab the spudger and remove the microphone rubber housing, we
will be removing it and placing it on the new dock assembly.

PUTTING THE NEW DOCK ASSEMBLY INTO THE
PHONE
•

Now that we have the lightning connecter assembly removed from the
speaker housing and the rear case, we can move the speaker housing to the
new dock assembly

•

Adhere the new dock assembly to the speaker housing, making sure all of
the static tape that covers the adhesive points are peeled off, so that the
lighting connector will sit correctly on the phone

•

Now, make sure you have placed the rubber microphone housing around the
new microphone on the dock assembly, using the adhesive that comes on
the bottom of the microphone to hold it into place.

•

Place the dock assembly into the correct position, making sure the lighting
connector is aligned with the bottom of the rear case, then secure all of the
correct screws that you have laid out in an organizational pattern.

•

Now work backwards from this repair guide so that all of the correct
placement of screws and ribbons are correct

•

Plug the battery in and test the unit!

REPLACING THE LOWER AND UPPER
INTERCONNECT CABLES

REMOVE THE TOP UPPER INTERCONNECT
CABLE

Make sure to:
• Always use a plastic pry tool, these interconnect cables help
coordinate connections between the lower part of the logic board to
the upper, allowing for a more distributed power and electronic wiring
system.
• Once its popped off, let it hang for a second while you grab the other

REMOVE THE TOP LOWER INTERCONNECT
CABLE

Make sure to:
• ALWAYS USE A PLASTIC PRY TOOL, you’re going to see this step in
any instance that has to do with electrical wiring, board level removal,
and repair. Its important
• Like the upper interconnect cable, just let it sit while you wait for
everything else to correctly be removed

REMOVING THE BOTTOM INTERCONNECT CABLE
FLEX RIBBONS.

Make sure to:
• Remove both the left and right flex cable snap ins, these are all
connected and adhered together, so as soon as you remove the
bottom flex ribbons, the cables may just fall to the left

REMOVING THE ENTIRE INTERCONNECT CABLE
SET

Make sure to:
• Grip the two cables connected to each other in the middle, we cant
recycle these, but we do not want them to scrape or break at all
when we are pulling them out.
• Make sure the phone is powered completely off and the battery is
disconnected before creating static and removing them

PUTTING THE NEW INTERCONNECT CABLES ON
•

Now that we have the old cables out, most likely the new ones that we
are putting in are not connected together.

•

Take the two new interconnect cables and lay them out, parallel to each
other. Now remove the static tape that covers the bottom of the ribbons
where the new adhesive is, put the shorter cable on top of the longer
cable

•

Pinch the two cables together to make sure they are correctly connected

•

Now starting with the bottom interconnect plug ins, place the two new
interconnect flex assemblies into the phone, making sure the battery is
disconnected and the phone is turned off.

•

Then, work backwards in this repair guide to reassemble the phone.

•

Now you can turn the phone on and get everything repaired and ready.

REPLACING AUDIO CONTROL AND POWER
SENSOR CABLE

REMOVE THE WI-FI PINION CABLE

Make sure to:
• Use the spudger or a plastic pry tool and remove the wi-fi pinion flex
ribbon
• Make sure that you are putting the rear case flat on the static mat,
and that the battery and phone are completely disconnected and
powered off

REMOVE THE TOP RIGHT LOGIC BOARD
BRACKET

Make sure to:
• Remember the distinction between the two screws, the top right one
is slightly smaller then the bottom left screw.
• Unscrew them both carefully, sometimes if you vigorously unscrew
them, the bracket threads on the logic board can snap off, they aren't
made out of the best material.

REMOVE THE UPPER INTERCONNECT CABLE

Make sure to:
• Remove the battery before disconnecting any ribbon cables
• Always use a plastic pry tool or the spudger, but never a metal
flathead or any metal instrument.

REMOVE THE BUTTON ASSEMBLY CABLE

Make sure to:
• Remember the button assembly cable is the middle cable, below the
upper interconnect cable, but above the lower interconnect cable.
• Do not use a flat head screw driver, always use a spudger or plastic
pry tool to remove flex ribbons.

REMOVE THE LOWER INTERCONNECT CABLE

Make sure to:
• Always use a plastic pry tool or the spudger, but never a metal
flathead or any metal instrument.

REMOVE THE TOP REAR CASE FRAME SCREWS

Make sure to:
• Unscrew these gently, and make sure your not shaking at all when
removing them, it can scratch the rear case, and then the rear case is
considered damaged.
• Remove the screws and correctly lay them our in an organizational
patter on your magnetic mat.

REMOVE THE LIGHTING CONNECTER FLEX
BRACKET PLATE

Make sure to:
• Remember that this bracket is what helps keep the lighting connector
flex in place, and is imperative to the overall function of the phone.
• Unscrew the one screw it has, and remove the plate with a pair of
tweezers, try not to touch the logic board with the metal tweezers, we
do not want to scratch the IWS

REMOVE THE LIGHTNING CONNECTOR DOCK
FLEX

Make sure to:
• Use the spudger or plastic pry tool to remove the dock flex, we don’t
want this to rip or tear in any way, then the part will have to be
replace, and it certainly is not cheap!

REMOVE THE SIM CARD TRAY FROM THE REAR
CASE

This is more of a reminder then an actual step, most technicians remove
this first in order to keep the customers sim card in a protected place.

REMOVE THE 5 LOGIC BOARD SCREWS

Make sure to:
• Remember that the top three screws are all the same size, but the
bottom orange screws are entirely different.
• Remove the screws and place them on your magnetic mat in the
correct organizational pattern

START TO PRY THE LOGIC BOARD FROM THE
REAR CASE

Make sure to:
• Remove the logic board screws first, then pull up on the board
from the bottom, holding it on an angle, then gently twist the board
so that you can see the side that faces the bottom of the rear case.
• Then hold it in the position similar to this picture

REMOVE THE CELLULAR ANTENNA PINION

Make sure to:
• Always use a plastic pry tool or the spudger to remove this pinion
• The pinion is made out of cheap pot metal, as well as the pinion cap it
plugs into, so be careful not to bend or misshape the two parts

REMOVE THE LOGIC BOARD FROM THE REAR
CASE

Make sure to:
• Remove it from the board carefully, noting the copper ground points
all over the board, Pull the board out and make sure it doesn't’t
scrape or scratch on the rear case

REMOVE THE RUBBER BLOCK FROM THE
PHYSICAL METAL POWER BUTTON

This is an easy step, but you want to pry it off a little first with the
spudger or a plastic pry tool, the remove it with a pair of tweezers. Put it
to the side, next to the power button. It is included in this repair guide
because you may just be replacing the power button, and not any cables
or flexs

REMOVE THE TOP POWER BUTTON BRACKET
SCREW

Make sure to:
• Remove this screw and keep it next to the power button bracket that it
holds in place
• Lay the screw out in your organizational pattern that you have setup on
your magnetic mat.

REMOVING THE BRACKET FOR THE CAMERA
GLASS AND FLASH UNIT

Make sure to:
• Remove the top screw first, then the bottom orange one, if you put
pressure on the flash, sometimes a small charge will still be in it and it
will go off
• Lay the screws out next to the bracket once you remove it with
tweezers, and make sure to keep the screws in the correct

REMOVE THE PHYSICAL POWER BUTTON FROM
THE REAR CASE

Make sure to:
• Use a spudge or a plastic pry tool to push the metal home button
through the top of the rear case, and then pull it out with a pair of
tweezers.

REMOVE THE FIRST TWO VIBRATE MOTOR
SCREWS

Make sure to:
• Remember where each location of the two screws is on the bracket
• Start with the top left screw indicated in red, sometimes if you remove
the bottom right screw first, the must switch will bend and not fit
correctly with the new ribbon.

REMOVE THE VIBRATE MOTOR BRACKET
SCREW

Make sure to:
• Remove the screw and keep it separate from the other bracket
screws that you removed in the step before this

REMOVE THE VIBRATE MOTOR FROM THE REAR
CASE

Really easy step, now that we have all off the screws and bracket
assembly screws removed from the rear case, we can take the vibrate
motor out of the back.

REMOVE THE VOLUME KEY AND MUTE SWITCH
BRACKET SCREWS

Make sure to:
• Notice the difference in the two top screws that hold the mute switch
bracket into place is different from the bottom red circled screw that
you see underneath the orange screws
• Unscrew them and make sure to lay them out correctly in the
organizational pattern you have been working on

PULLING THE MUTE SWITCH BRACKET AWAY
FROM THE MUTE SWITCH

Make sure to:
• Use a plastic pry tool to push away the mute switch bracket away
from the mute switch so that you can pull it out.
• Now use a pair of tweezers to pull the physical mute switch away
from the rear case.

PUSH THE VOLUME KEY BRACKET OUT OF THE
WAY TO GRAB THE VOLUME KEY FRAME

Make sure to:
• Use the spudger or plastic pry tool to remove the bracket away from
the volume key frame, push the volume key frame through the rear
case with the plastic pry tool or spudger
• Now pull the volume key frame from the rear case with a pair of
tweezers

REMOVE THE AUDIO AND POWER RIBBON
FROM THE REAR CASE

Make sure to:
• Use the spudger or plastic pry tool to pry up on the adhesive and
move underneath it to take it out of the rear case
• Start where the interconnect ribbons and button ribbon sockets and
pry up from there

CONTINUE TO REMOVE THE RIBBON FROM THE
REAR CASE

Make sure to:
• Remove the ribbon and frame assemblies carefully from the rear
case, making sure to always use rubber and plastic pry tools to pry it
up
• Look for the two copper grounding points at the top left of the rear
case, there is tighter adhesive at this point, so now we can pry up on

REPLACING THE NEW RIBBON
•
•
•
•
•
•
•

Usually we would have to pry off the volume key frame, mute switch bracket
and all of the assembly pieces for the sensor ribbons on other iPhone
models, In this case, all of our ribbons will be pre assembled
Start by placing the power button into place, and start securing the brackets
that hold it in place
Now secure the volume key frame back into its slot, and then put the mute
switch back into place.
Secure the rest of the screws into both brackets and test the buttons, make
sure they all snap back into place and all work properly
Take your black spudger and secure the adhesive that’s on the bottom of the
new ribbon and put pressure on all the points of the ribbon, making sure that
everything is properly secure and aligned correctly.
Now, using this repair guide, work back wards to reassemble the phone
Make sure you are testing all the functionalities of the phone once it is in
place, powered on and ready to use.

Hunky Dory iPhone 5 Tear Down and Repair Guide

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